Top products from r/Ford

We found 22 product mentions on r/Ford. We ranked the 56 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/Ford:

u/LOL_Wut_Axel · 2 pointsr/Ford

Yup, those are definitely things I would recommend. The plugs you can do in 5 mins. Ford uses double platinum plugs stock. You can either get the Motorcraft or the Autolite double platinum and they'll work great and are pretty cheap. I bought the Autolite at Advanced for like $15 two years ago and they work great. While you're at it, I'd also recommend you change the plug cables. Denso make the plugs for Ford, so you can get the original part directly through them for cheaper.

http://smile.amazon.com/Denso-671-4061-Original-Equipment-Replacement/dp/B000EQB36A?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Oil you can use high-mileage or synthetic. I prefer to use synthetic because it's higher quality, protects the engine better and it's either a bit cheaper or the same cost-wise. I change mine every 6K miles and just pick out whatever 5W-30 full synthetic with filter they have at Advanced. It's usually $20 or $25, while conventional high-mileage is $18-21 but that you should change every 4K or so so it's not actually cheaper.

You should definitely change the brake discs. You could buy the original but good quality replacements can also be had like ACDelco or Raybestos.

The water pump... well I'll be honest, mine has the original one. The water pump typically doesn't fail or leak on these. Mine hasn't leaked any coolant at all and the original radiator seems to be holding up fine too. If you wanna replace it as a preventative measure you could and it's easier than most cars because it's not connected to the belt. It's a 1 hour job if you're experienced, around 2 if not.

I would definitely, definitely recommend you do the valve cover gasket and rear dogbone control arm if they haven't been done. Do not use any silicone on the valve cover. Reason why it's important to change is because the rubber breaks and engine oil will start leaking into the plugs, fouling them and if it's bad enough can cause the car to misfire. Change them every 60K or so. That rear control arm is very important too because it has to do with rear tire wear. That control arm is the one that sets the rear camber of the car, and at around 100K miles the rubber breaks and you'll be able to notice because of the rear camber. Tires will last 1/3 of what they should unless you replace it. It has independent rear suspension which is great for handling, but it also causes that.

http://smile.amazon.com/Dorman-521-416-Control-Arm/dp/B004AIS1R2/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1462747313&vehicle=2001-54-679-49--1-8-5-3458--1-1-747--2-0&sr=1-2&ymm=2001%3Aford%3Afocus

Any car with that mileage you should check the front and rear shocks. The rear are super easy to do. I followed a video and did it in 10 mins total. The front are a bit tricky so those take around an hour. If you want it to ride like stock use Monroe, if you want a bit sportier/stiffer use KYB.

u/lance713 · 2 pointsr/Ford

Other options include the appearance package, MyFord Touch (is possible to get real nav on this even though it didn't get the $800 nav package?) and the backup camera.

I loved the color the moment I saw it. Sometimes I feel its a little on the girly side, but I don't care. The color is absolutely gorgeous. and the red stitching on the interior really brings it out.

Two complaints though.

  1. I seem to get WAY LESS gas mileage on my 2012 Focus sedan that I traded in. On the Focus I would average 32 city/highway but on this Fusion I'm getting 16. I really hope it just needs to be broken in. I knew I was going to get less MPG but this is more than I expected.

  2. The touch screen is constantly getting finger printed. Is it save to use these Carl Zeiss wipes on it? It came with a microfiber cloth but it doesn't do anything. If I spray some lens cleaner solution from eye glasses shops it works but I don't know if it's safe for the screen.
u/SumHighFalls · 1 pointr/Ford

I have an 07 Mustang and 04 F-150 FX4 with stereos that have identical layouts. Mustang came with satellite radio subscription for some period, and has an auxiliary input jack in the console. Same Aux button used for satellite or aux jack.

That led me to wonder if I could get an auxiliary jack for the F-150, even though it didn’t have anything connected to that input when I bought it.

I found the part I needed, then had a local car stereo shop install it, since it involved some disassembly and reassembly. It ended up being a lot more complicated than they expected, and took a lot longer, but they honored the price they quoted.

IIRC, the part itself wasn’t that complicated. Almost like a red/white (RCA) to 1/8th. The end that plugs into my phone/mp3 player runs through the glovebox.

BUT - lately, instead of that, I have been using a Bluetooth adapter that broadcasts to FM. I had a couple that were lousy, but the current one works better than the hardwired aux line in the F-150 (which sometimes crackles). It’s a lot cheaper and can move from vehicle to vehicle. Only downside is when I am too close to an FM station broadcasting at that frequency.

ETA - I think I went through the same “feature is there” circle. Technically, the aux button is there, and would function if there was an accessory connected to it for you to “select” by pressing that button.

The back end of things might have been through a part like this that then connected to a red/white to the piece that connects to a 1/8th jack (maybe this) or whatever you’re trying to connect.

u/bagofwisdom · 2 pointsr/Ford

Check to see if this vehicle has had Heli-coils or Timeserts installed due to plug blowout. Heli-coils are a good stop-gap fix to get you moving again. Timeserts are a more expensive, but more permanent solution. If it has never had a plug blow-out I'd highly recommend investing in one of these kits and keep a tube of grease and red thread-locker in your vehicle. Even if you lose a plug you'll be able to be on your way again in about an hour once the engine cools (30 minutes to install the insert, 30 to give the loctite a chance to set). The only other tools you'll need are a ratchet set with 6" extension, spark plug socket, and hammer.

u/daytondownvoter · 1 pointr/Ford

I'm at work right now and eBay is blocked here, so I can't view that link. It's something like this

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-5606-Compression-Tester-Kit/dp/B000R5CPAQ

It's just a PSI gauge that's threaded like a spark plug on the hose end. Most of them will come with a few different adapters, to fit different types of spark plugs. There isn't much else you can check on without starting to take the engine apart.

u/WickedlyAmazing · 2 pointsr/Ford

Looks similar to the one I needed for my 2000 XLT. I found mine on amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LU8N1M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Checked their guide and it said this one should fit. If not maybe it can be a starting point for you to work with. Hope you find what you need!

u/Dinahmoe · 1 pointr/Ford

There is a shit fix that may work depending on how bad it is. The real fix will cost $$$$, depending on the dealer, replacing the head will total your vehicle.

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-42025-HELP-Cylinder-Repair/dp/B000TYVU1U

This guy show the real repair, but, he is good, there is no guarantee the dealer will have someone good there. I wouldn't let our mechanics feed the pigs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NmYfg8D_SxY

u/geeked0ut · 2 pointsr/Ford

Like just a regular easily found 30a fuse?


No. These are available at any parts store.

u/DMAC55 · 1 pointr/Ford

Buy a tool off amazon, long flexible yet sturdy pole, has a flashlight on the end with a claw.

$7 : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00275F5I8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Think Arnold Schwarzenneger in Total Recall

u/sarogers · 2 pointsr/Ford

I can't see your second link for some reason but it sounds like your brake fluid pressure sensor needs replaced. Cheap fix.

$16 at Amazon

u/SiffLawd · 1 pointr/Ford

That part number changes to F7LZ 7F293 AB or Motorcraft # SW5713
It's $81.07 at the dealer or $50.14 on amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-SW5713-Speed-Sensor/dp/B000C5DTYM

u/reddituser2006 · 2 pointsr/Ford

This would be worth a try. Works on lots of plastic surfaces.

u/droid6 · 2 pointsr/Ford

Yea, shouldn't be hard, I've been in tires for 11 years. Just find a good tire shop they should fix for you.

Motorcraft TPMS19 Remote Tire Pressure Sensor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FKSNUI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ivTxyb6AKKWMZ

u/guy2545 · 1 pointr/Ford

You need a PIE adapter. It plugs into the CD changer port on the back of the radio and provides you with stereo audio RCA port, that activates whenever you hit the AUX button. You can usually find them on ebay or by searching the web.


You will need to tap power lines for the device to work. I do not remember which lines I tapped when I installed mine, but I went with a switched source so it was not always powered.

u/Pawzie1 · 2 pointsr/Ford

Hey I just had the same issue with my truck, don't worry it's just brake fall out!!!

Genuine Ford Fluid ZC-15 Custom Bright Metal Cleaner - 16 oz. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000LPTG90/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_Te1LAbT14B7QN

Get that! But DONT use it on any other part of your truck other than the chrome bumpers, it will eat through paint but it is meant for metal chrome surfaces NOT plastic chrome. It pulls that brake fall out off like it was dirt and also leave a shiny wax FINISH!

I guarantee that's the solution since I've done it on my two work trucks and my personal truck.

EDIT: people can shove the "aluminum" bullshit up their ass. I have owned two f150s of the new aluminum f150 body styles and multiple steel models. Biggest load of shit people are spreading. My father's latest f250 goes through hell with tools and shit and shows no different wearing out signs that his steel didn't already..