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Get an OASIS report (w/ VIN) from the local Ford dealer to let you know what she has been through (at least while under warranty)

\> there was an exhaust smell when stopped at lights

I have no exhaust or muffler on my 6.0 and don't smell any exhaust when stopped, so that is curious.

I would recommend buying an OBDII scanner from Amazon ($20) if you don't have one (regardless if you follow through with this truck or not it is great to have for all of your other vehicles). They make them with Bluetooth so you can download an app (Torque Pro) for your phone and check/clear codes as well as live data monitoring. It's what a lot of us Ford guys do until we get a tuner that monitors data.

Here is a video that shows what I'm talking about.

That way you can go on another test drive while monitoring the PIDs. Let the truck warm up (180+ F for both oil and coolant) and then hop on the freeway and set the cruise control at 55 mph. Keep it there (on flat ground) for about 15 minutes and monitor the difference between those two temperatures. If they get above 15 degrees apart the truck has a failed oil cooler.

Check the degas bottle and oil for any obvious signs of head gasket issues. Make sure the coolant in that degas bottle is clean (free from particulate) and not milky - likewise with the oil.

Injectors are the other finicky devil with these trucks. When you click the truck onto the on position, keep the door open and listen to the injectors clatter as the spool valves open and close. This is most telling on a bone-cold engine that hasn't been started that day. Those things should clatter fast and evenly. If they start slowly clattering and ramp up their speed as they clatter that could indicate sludge/stiction gauming up the spool valves which leads to contribution issues. Another app called Car Gauge Pro allows you to do a "buzz test" to check for bad injectors by individually buzzing each injector to let you listen. Here is an awesome video that shows how to do that.

I wish I would have known those tips before I bought my baby. Good on you for being far less impulsive than me. With 20 minutes of SUPER easy tests, you can give yourself a really good idea of what kind of shape the truck is in.

Head gasket, oil cooler, and injectors are the big three to keep on your radar with 6.0s. If those are all working properly and the 282k miles doesn't scare you I'd go for it - that's just my 2 cents though.

You better post a picture of that baby if you end up pulling the trigger.

100% agreed!

I bought the BAFX (Android or Windows mobile device only), Amazon link here, alongside the Torque Pro app. Can't go wrong, and gets me all that I need for diagnostic :)

Very good info, buddy!

You can run a coolant that has SCA's already in it or you can just run standard coolant and buy the SCA separate and add it yourself. You need to check the concentration regardless to make sure it is still good. They sell kits with litmus paper and a gauge to check concentration. Genuine Ford Fluid VC-8 Diesel Cooling System Additive - 16 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NU3LPS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yUeYCbFY5JCE8

http://www.amazon.com/GERI-Relay-Module-Delay-Switch/dp/B0126WT5QO/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1452143364&sr=1-11&keywords=delay+timer+switch

Or wire it to a constantly hot wire, granted you'll have to wire in an on/off switch (I did so, but put it on along the remote for my amp).

Edit: Or wire your glow plugs on a push button, like mine is. Take the glow plug relay, and take the two fat wires off of it, 4 gauge or whatever they are, and wire a switch through the cab.

Edit 2: A downfall to the direct wiring the glow plugs is (not sure if on the OBS 7.3 or not) that they supposedly run while driving too. But we have a exhaust backpressure valve on the turbo, that heats the engine up quicker. Mine's deleted, w/ different turbo pedestal.

I have it working with my 1997 7.3l and this adapter. I'm sure it works with others, but I know for a fact that this one works. (And it's only $11USD)



Make sure you add the Custom PIDs for the Powerstroke.

You are going to need the hub seal tool. Depending on year you'll need this. That hub seal you need, and your 4x4 wont work right if its not on there. Needs to be airtight fit.

2005+

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6698-Knuckle-Installer-Current/dp/B004FZCH70/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=6.0+hub+seal+installer&qid=1570149049&sr=8-2


99-2004

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6695-Shaft-Installer-1998-2004/dp/B0015PKC5W/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=6.0+hub+seal+installer&qid=1570149049&sr=8-1

I will do this as well. I dont know what type I should buy though. Google isnt helping me out much because I really don't know what I'm looking at. I found this one on Amazon that says will fit my truck.

I have this one set to my work schedule and it's glorious

Labor was in house. Dad and I changed. For the turbo: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L1DHP4S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 $1150.

Here's the one I recently bought to replace my old one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PJPHEBO?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Dorman 524-317 Suspension Track Bar (Front) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Z7NWE04/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KjldBbDBX5G7V

Daystar, Ford F250/350 Kevlar infused polyurethane Body Mounts, fits 1999 to 2017 2/4WD, KF04050KV, Made in America https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0084ROLQ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ki4XDbZ9J5A07

https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-ESHD10007-Shadow-Black-out-Coating/dp/B003E2AC0E

If you google the part number for the 'waste gate solenoid' it comes up as a Dorman part number for the VGT solenoid via Amazon

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https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Solutions-Variable-Geometry-Turbocharger/dp/B00Z7NRJF4

No problem. I love wiring! (Feel free to DM me in the future with any electrical questions) but as for the charger, I'm talking about the kind you plug into 120 volt wall socket and it has the clamps that put 12 volts to your battery.. It's not the exact one I have, but you get the idea. I basically cut the clamps off and crimped on eyelet connectors and connected them to my power bank, which is fused. I mounted it inside a cabinet so when I need to charge it I just drag an extension cord out to it and plug it in. And to charge it off the truck, your F-250 should have a 7-pin trailer connector which has a wire to charge trailer batteries. I just hope that up appropriately and it charges whenever the truck is running.

Just thought I would follow up with you after your help the other day. I got a 454T module which is supposed to solve my problem. The signal coming off my tach wire was too weak.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001H1IRTM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the one I bought. I suppose there's a possibility it could just be a bad sensor right out of the box.

edit: Looks like I may have bought the wrong sensor? Now I'm not really sure which one of these I need as comments on both show people claiming they work with the 7.3. Here's the other.

The one I bought is the F4TZ, this one is the F7TZ

https://www.amazon.com/Ford-F7TZ-12K073-B-F7TZ-12K073-B-SENSOR-CAMSHAFT-PO/dp/B001H1OFZM/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

edit 2: After checking with Ford the F7TZ is the right part number. Both will fit however.

I have this Viper remote start/keyless entry/alarm.

The installer can set it up many different ways, including duration to fire flow plugs before starting and duration to leave it running (to cool the turbo) after exiting the vehicle.

This is a one-way remote system: the remote sends a command to the truck, but the truck doesn't communicate back to the remote to show any kind of status. Two-way remotes are available, and can display if a door is left open, window is broken, remote start failed, etc.

This one can be set up to start the engine and idle for a while if your battery drops below a certain voltage. Handy if you leave it in a parking garage for a couple weeks, you won't come back to a dead truck.

I like the system. The remote is durable and slim and works really far away. The remote chirps to let you know it is sending a signal, and the vehicle chirps to let you know the signal was received. The chirps can be silenced if you want.

My 1997 obs powerstroke needed some additional relays added to the power locks (which are powered through the door switch, and not through a relay) before the installation could be completed. Car Toys did it in a day. It wasn't cheap. Insist that they solder everything, or take it elsewhere. They need to make it look factory quality under the dash.

I've had mine for about a year now. Love it!

Marino plug on Amazon. I've put them on every diesel I've had. My current is hard wired for a battery tender and block heater. Timer goes on at 3 AM and battery gets a trickle while the block heater gets to work.