Top products from r/GoRVing

I've never seen the SewerSolution until now, but it looks to me like it serves a bit of a different purpose then the Flush King. It looks like the SewerSolution is meant to run a little longer distance (like using it at home where you can't get your RV close enough to and outside inlet to your sewer).

Just looking at it, I'd be a little leery. I can see that there's a jet that blasts a stream going out the hose, but if you get enough TP or other solids in that little hose, is that jet going to be enough to push it though? If it does happen to get jammed, you're in for a bit of a mess when you close your black water tank and disconnect this hose. Remember, the shut off for the black water tank is generally located right up at the tank, there is going to be 4 to 5 feet of PVC full of stuff between the shut off and the disconnect, and it's all going to come out. If you want to go this route, take a look at the flojet, I have a friend who has one, and they are happy with it. It's obviously more money, but it actually grinds up the solids and actually pumps stuff out the hose.

http://www.amazon.com/Flojet-18555-000-Waste-Water-Pump/dp/B001HKZHIW/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1397960442&sr=1-2&keywords=flojet


The flush king is more for keeping your tanks clean and free of dried up solids. You hook it up to the outlet on the RV, then hook the slinky hose up to the flush king. First you drain your tank as normal, then you use close the flush king and turn on the hose, this pushes water back up into your tanks to create a rinse. then you open again and let everything drain back out. Repeat as necessary. As time permits, I'll sometimes do it 3 to 4 times during a dumping.

Gotcha. A couple of "pointers" for you to consider: If you're 6'1" and your son is growing, make sure to check the bed size. Many trailer's beds aren't designed for taller folks and end up having to sleep diagonally. Silly as it sounds, buy a clear sewer hose fitting. (something like this https://www.amazon.com/Camco-39847-RhinoFLEX-Degree-Fitting/dp/B006OQ35GU), When you clear out your tanks, you can make sure it is flowing clear water out of your black tank. Budget for "other" camping items that you didn't use when you were car camping. Everything from 5 gallon water jugs, chocks, gas tanks, levelers are a start. Jumping to an RV involves more purchases than you will think of at first. If you're buying a used camper, make sure you have it professionally inspected. You'd be surprised what you can find out with an inspection. I'm at work so I'll try and add more if I can think of other tips for you!

I don’t have a 5th wheel, but a travel trailer.

In my experience I have to chock one side of the trailer tight to eliminate the wiggle.
So using one of those chocks that fit between the tires and you clamp down I would anticipate will resolve your issue.
My 20’ is a single axle and I use this.

Mechanically I could only see the tripod as helping with vertical and not lateral motions.

I also noticed that your rear stabilsers do not appear to have sand pads. These help distribute the load better and you don't sink. I would also recommend one for your hitch. Also, in of itself that wood blocking is going to be rocky.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Stabilizing-Base-Pads-Cross-Frame/dp/B0024E6Z9U/

https://www.amazon.com/Pro-1400700340-Footplate-Pin/dp/B005DLLVMW/


But as another stated, I also use the BAL X chocks and really like them. Although.... a little too much side to side motion in the ocean can cause them to work themselves out. There is a fine line between too tight and not tight enough.

https://www.amazon.com/X-Chock-Wheel-Stabilizer-Handle-28012/dp/B002XLHUQG/

Steadyfast and Camco Stack Jacks work for us pretty good. Not sure if it would ever get rock solid like a sticks and bricks.

I have the EZ Lift 1000. With the sway control. It’s very adjustable. I have about 10000 miles on it. Still working great.

EAZ LIFT 48058 1000 lbs Elite Kit, Includes Distribution, Sway Control and 2-5/16" Hitch Ball-1,000 lbs Tongue Weight Capacity (48058-A) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005SB6S3Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rn6rDbDJK4ZFA

Be careful with that. A lot of the cheaper ones don't have any bearings on the wheels and they will burn out really fast unless you drive REALLY slow... like under 2mph slow.

I know Barker's tanks have bearings and bigger inflatable wheels and will hold up a lot better. Their warranty support is really damn good too.

We have a 42 gallon one and I use one of these to haul it around after I fill it since the dump station is quite a ways away from where we set up.

edit: That picture is wrong... that's the old style, here is the right picture

Suspect Amazon will be your new best friend.

sample x chock for tandem axle trailer https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002XLHUQG/

sample stabilizer https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002P2TWBE

sample hose carrier https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NAU762Z

If it's not marked non-potable and doesn't have signs saying not to do that (some places have limited water), then yes. Just remember that other people may have done unsanitary things to the spigot, and recently I heard about a guy that found worms in one. I always run it first, look into it, then connect. A fill tube with a screen is a good idea also. I use this, and added a screen to it:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006IX850

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A water bandit will help you connect to arbitrary water sources that don't have a normal screw connection, such as faucets at fish cleaning stations:

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https://smile.amazon.com/Camco-Connects-Standard-Various-Sources/dp/B000EDOSKG

The two jacks in the rear are like this.

The bases for those jacks are like this.

The jack in the front is like [this] (http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/m6gEYG4Pn04KSHCR1cztNNA.jpg)

> Fantastic vent fan insulating pillow

like this?

A bit of advice my friend: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006OQ35GU?keywords=see%20through%20sewer%20elbow%20rv&qid=1458621948&ref_=sr_1_fkmr1_2&sr=8-2-fkmr1

It's isn't empty until it runs clear. Keep the chute closed until she's full, then open. Close again, fill with water, then flush one more time.

I want to say years ago...when I was growing up, we have an older prowler.

I may be wrong, but I believe it did NOT have scissor jacks. It have something like those V's pointing down. I then used something like this (below link) to put under the V and screw it up to meet the V...making it a stabilizer

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Olympian-Aluminum-Stabilize-Position/dp/B000760FWU/ref=zg_bs_3147821011_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7CSVX602VG780PZ9NERC

Do you have hookups on the lot? Electricity, water, and sewer? I'd definitely recommend thoroughly cleaning it and then going over the seams with EternaBond.

Mr. Heater F232000 MH9BX Buddy 4,000-9,000-BTU Indoor-Safe Portable Radiant Heater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nvL-zbF85BZ12

For when/ if electricity fails you. Whether it's a problem with your internal wiring, or an external lack of power. I keep this inside my rig all winter incase of emergency. One of those green propane bottles last 4-5 hours, so keep a couple bottles inside. It's safe to run in the trailer.

I bought my rig last November and went straight to Denver for all of December and January. I stayed totally dry for most of that until I got a heated hose and figured out a couple more tricks.

Keep a clean 5 gallon bucket inside, sometimes motivation or the time isn't there to make it to the gym for a shower. You can boil a kettle of water and use it to wash up.

You can also buy a hand pump for those primo water jugs which are quick, easy, and cheap to fill. Those make it easy to keep water in the place.

You can either wash dishes in a bucket and dump it outside, or you'll need to figure out grey water from the sink. It shouldn't be a problem to run a line out and dump it on the ground, you'd just want to watch the line to make sure you don't get an ice block in there.

If the outhouse gets old, you can look into a composting toilet if you have somewhere to keep it. Or a toilet with a "cassette" which you can dump in the outhouse when it's not -10 out.

Sometimes it's nice to have an option for anything you might need inside the trailer to get though cold days and nights.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Brass-Connect-Aids-Removal-36143/dp/B002XL2IEA

This is the adapter I have. It hooks up to the quick connect hose I have on my 5 gallon air compressor. I don’t know if a plug in will work with it, just a heads up.

Also’ make sure you blow out the toilet. I have a friend that didn’t once and it cracked the valve.

Two options are:

1. Valterra RV Stabilizer
   
2. Camco Aluminum Stabilizer
   
   Tuck either one up under the frame of the camper. You might try different spots to see where they work best. Usually the corners are what get stablized in travel trailers.

This would be a great time to purchase a x-chock. If installed correctly tires will not move.

X-Chock Wheel Stabilizer - Pair - One Handle - 28012 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XLHUQG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_O4MSCbWNPTA9A

A lot of people tow similar setups with similar type vehicles. I have 2 suggestions: 1) Try to make sure there is not too much weight behind the axle. 2) consider installing a sway bar. They are super cheap and fairly easy to install. (https://www.amazon.com/Pro-83660-Value-Friction-Control/dp/B0016KJ5MC/ - this one is marketed under a lot of brands, but under "Pro-Series," it is cheapest"

Okay so question because I’m currently hooked up at a family members house with our first rig. In her backyard (where were parked) she has a septic system with two outlets (both on separate breakers, both 20AMP). One of the outlets is for the alarm and other for the pump. So I have our rig plugged into the alarm (20AMP) breaker. I run a 50ft Camco 30AMP extension cord from there (connected to the outlet using a 30AMP to 15amp small adapter, like no cord just a small 2” or so box) to the extension cord coming from the TT. Is this unsafe? If so what should I do to remedy it? I can’t get an 30AMP outlet installed here. And we won’t be staying long term, but we have to run the AC (on low) while were gone for the pets. We haven’t had an issue, just when we need to use something power heavy well turn something off in exchange. Like if we need the water heater, turn off the AC, need to microwave then turn off the water heater, etc. been here for about a month now and have only popped the breaker twice (both instances from leaving the AC while taking a shower and the water heater kicked on).

Edit:Links and formatting (took me a minute lol)

For reference I looked up that tape. Wow, it is expensive. I think I'll stick to my silicone caulk for now. http://www.amazon.com/EternaBond-RSW-4-50-White-Roof-Seal/dp/B002RSIK4G

Ohh and I wanted to share this incase you wanted a bit more stability. huge difference.

The black ones definitely let in less light, but if you are simply looking to insulate and block light cheaply and without installing anything these work great.

I pull my 25' (approx 4k-5k) with my Titan, all I use is a sway bar. My truck takes the weight pretty good, and handles the bumps well, but I do have a little bit of sway, hence the bar. I use this ball mount.

http://www.amazon.com/Curt-45820-Sway-Ball-Mount/dp/B003AT6EYO/ref=sr_1_61?ie=UTF8&qid=1405294141&sr=8-61&keywords=ball+mount

When I had the one on my first 5th wheel apart, I wrapped it with EternaBond tape then put the hose clamp over that. Not cheap, but you should have a roll of it in the camper anyway. Great if you have to make an emergency roof repair.

Using a generator for a space heater is inefficient. It's also expensive.

If all you need is heat, go for a catalytic propane space heater. Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU

That one is expensive at $70, you can get decent models as cheap as $20 that screw onto the top of a Coleman propane cylinder.

Check out water bandits for cases like this: http://www.amazon.com/Camco-22484-Water-Bandit/dp/B000EDOSKG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459265676&sr=8-1&keywords=water+bandit

> I used mine last weekend, since it was the first time I've been to a place that had a dump station that still had the end on the hose.

The spigot where the water comes out hook up to? This gizmo is awesome for those situations. https://www.amazon.com/Camco-22484-Water-Bandit-Lead/dp/B000EDOSKG

Lived in Madison, WI last winter in my RV. You will need heat tape around your black water tank and piping. As for the water hose, heat tape with insulation for that or buy an extra fancy hose with it already inside. There is also black tank antifreeze we used that we found at Menards for a couple bucks. To go around the outside of the rv you will need either some sort of skirting, or insulation panels. The goal is not to let wind gusts under your rv. We used clear duct tape and white tarp around our entire trailer held down with PVC pipes and cinder blocks. Inside if you have a patio door you will need to heat tape around it because it will freeze shut and the only way to open it will be with a blow dryer. Plastic window shrink wrap all windows, and put a blanket over doors you don't use. Use these vent pillows.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0024E6QX0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1509510577&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rv+vent+pillow&dpPl=1&dpID=31oBzadZDDL&ref=plSrch.

Make sure your heater works (ours had a frog in it and had to be replaced). This will get you through a winter with sub zero temps.

If its above freezing during the day and barely below freezing at night you won't need to be this extreme. Heat tape and/or leaving the water run just a bit would do the trick.

I tow a 30 footer with slide. Weight comes out around 8700 lbs. I installed one of these from Reese, and it made a huge difference in windy driving conditions.

Most trailers have rear stabilizers, did you use them? Larger trailers have them in the front as well. You can also buy separate stabilizers. They make small ones to place under the step. I bought a larger one to add to the stability under the side bed in mine.
Here

Sometimes I dry camp in the middle of nowhere so I need to dump when I get home. I have a macerator pump unit that hooks up to a garden hose (I only use the hose for this) and then I stick the far end of the hose into my sewer cleanout and dump it all in there. This also allows me to do a really deep cleaning on my tanks to keep my sensors clean since I can flush a ton of water through my tanks.

Pump I have is https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HKZHIW/ and I'd recommend it as it works very well.

People rant and rave about Blue Ox WDH. However, I use this one, and I am pleased with it so far.

I've never experienced a sway problem (RV bought new last August) and it's only through more reading that I added one for this trip. I didn't notice any difference on this trip with sway control versus previous without but maybe it's one of those where you don't need it until you do? I have always had a WDH fitted.

I went with a cheap one off Amazon

Do yourself a favor and spend seven bucks and do it the right way. It will even save you a bunch of time.

Buy this product:

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Brass-Connect-Aids-Removal-36143/dp/B002XL2IEA

Drain your tanks. Leave the drains open, open all of your faucets, hook this up and run ~40-50 psi compressed air through your lines for about 5 minutes. Disconnect, leave the faucets and drains open, pour a little antifreeze down each drain so it's in the P traps, and you're done. There is absolutely no need to go so overboard, and you're wasting a bunch of time.

Get wheel chocks even if you have the x-chocks.

Maybe this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MYRM7MM/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_5?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

We must be talking about different things. A wdh doesn’t need to be installed. You attach/remove it every time you use it (the one I have anyways). I’m on my phone, I’ll post a link later...

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005SB6S3Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_jZG7BbXRWE73F

The []() link thing isn’t working 🤔

Came with the GeoPro, but here it is!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYRM7MM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XqH5CbAK4FEWG?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app

Lippert Components (LIPPC) 429756 Jack-It Bike Rack

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYRM7MM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XqH5CbAK4FEWG

You can also test all of your devices' consumption with a Kill-a-watt. It can read "realtime" load, so you can power up a device and watch it's peak watt usage.

You can try getting a black water tank wash nozzle and spray it around through the toilet. Amazon link.

One of these, if he doesn't already have one: https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Flexible-Powerful-Dislodges-40074/dp/B0006IX7YC

Around here the spigots are mostly threaded though I did buy one of these just in case.

we use this one to pump from my dads rv to my septic tank in the summer :http://www.amazon.com/Flojet-18555-000-Waste-Water-Pump/dp/B001HKZHIW/ref=pd_sbs_auto_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=0HXR7XPZC8NYFC23N5W4

150' of 1" line, 6 foot rise give or take. takes about 10 min to drain and flush his tanks.

You'll just need to get an appropriate adapter.

There are versions for both types of connection:

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-PowerGrip-Durable-Electrical-Adapter/dp/B00192QB3I?

You'd connect a gadget like in the link below to your city water connection. No it won't clear your freshwater tank as that will have its own drain.

Camco Blow Out Plug With Brass Quick Connect-Aids In Removal of Water From Water Lines (36143) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XL2IEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DTbYDb4CT1YXS

Do not use silicone. You will regret it later when it is time to re-seal your roof.

You will need to get on the roof and reseal the skylight, and, if it were my roof, I would go ahead and do the whole thing if it's needed. You can find plenty of videos on Youtube on how to do this.

Lap sealant can be bought on Amazon (Dicor Self-Leveling Lap Sealant 4-pack), and I would recommend two other items as well; Butyl Tape for laying down as an extra barrier under the roof equipment, and a roll of Eternabond for emergency repair.

Consider just adding a sway bar with no WDH.

https://smile.amazon.com/CURT-45820-Sway-Ball-Mount/dp/B003AT6EYO/

https://smile.amazon.com/Pro-83660-Value-Friction-Control/dp/B0016KJ5MC/

BP, brackets then parentheses.

[Text] (Link) with no space between

Inflatable couch

I have no idea how to link on reddit so I hope this works https://www.amazon.com/Intex-Inflatable-Corner-Sofa-101/dp/B00OCBZX50/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=inflatable+couch&qid=1568422472&sprefix=infla&sr=8-4

Why stop at the couch when you can have a whole sectional?

They make portable tanks that you can drain your tanks into. You can then take that tank to a dump station.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000OR18BE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521132002&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=portable+rv+waste+tanks&dpPl=1&dpID=41TMTdNeRWL&ref=plSrch

One of these (link is a clean amazon link to the thing, no affiliate link; here to help, not make a few bucks). Your family member may not know it yet, but they will need one eventually.

We got one when we had an, erm, 'incident' and it not only cleaned our clog but the literal crap and paper still stuck in the nooks and crannies of the plumbing from previous owners...

I usually keep water in my tank over the summer. I'll drain and refill before trips. I like to travel with some water in the fresh tank, even if I'm camping at a cg with water hookup in case I need to use the sink en route or at the cg before I hook up the city water.

I'll usually leave a little water in the black tank between trips. If it's completely dry, whatever is left in the tank will dry to sides of the tank and become like poo concrete.

I have a poop cannon (flojet waste pump) so I can dump at home. Between trips after I dump, I will fill the back tank, let it sit for a couple days and dump again.

Flojet 18555000A 18555-000A Portable RV Waste Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HKZHIW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Q3BnDb39C6ZVZ

For sway control, absolutely. These things aren't like pa's tandem axle car hauler. They are built to be light weight and light on the tongue, 10% of the camper weight, so they blow around everywhere. If you want to go the cheap route just buy the sway control and have the metal tab welded (picture 2) welded to an extended ball mount so it looks something like this but gives you more clearance. It's worth the 100 bucks in safety.

The other option is buy The whole set and install it yourself. It's not difficult and there's youtube videos all over the place. If you do buy a WDH bigger is not better. The leverage involved can do a lot of damage to the tow vehicle or trailer so don't just buy a 12000lb set and hook it to your 3000lb tow light.

These numbers are straight out of my ass because I don't know your cab, axle, 4wd, but here goes. Generic v8 full-size truck payload 1500lb. GCVW 7000. Trailer Max- 7500ish

Single axle trailer up to 4500lb- sway control, no WDH
Tandem axle trailer up to 7500- sway control and WDH

You can use a macerator pump connected to the dump valve

https://www.amazon.com/Flojet-18555-000A-Portable-Macerator-Carrying/dp/B001HKZHIW

Then just pump it into a 55 gallon drum or something in your vehicle and then go dump it somewhere where you can dump into the sewer.

With 3 people using the toilet, expect to need it pumped out every week to 10 days. Average size is 30 gallons for each black and grey tank.

The grey water will fill up even faster, with dishes, showers, etc.