Top products from r/Gunpla

We found 492 product mentions on r/Gunpla. We ranked the 1,508 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/Gunpla:

u/Beginning_Gunpla · 0 pointsr/Gunpla

so many questions! @_@ I'll try and answer what ones I can

u/MyOtherPenisIsADick · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

-EDIT- HUGE data dump here, sorry about that! I like Gundam stuff, what can I say?

In my experience, Tamiya makes good stuff in general.

I'm a big fan of markers for use in touch-up work and for panel lining.

The "Gundam" branded panel liner markers can make a huge difference on some kits, but honestly it depends on the surface detail on the kit. Basically, panel lining helps emphasize surface detail and make it stand out more when the model is viewed from a distance. IMO panel lined models are usually way nicer looking than straight OOB.

IMO this is a good starter pack, as the "Real Touch" markers are all double sided, giving you more options for application.

Sharpie and other brands have fine tipped metallic markers, and those can make a HUGE difference. I'm a big fan of covering any exposed frame parts with a metallic color, like gunmetal or silver, and then do highlights / color separation in gold.

The other immediate purchase you will want to make is a good side cutter tool (if you do not already have one). Using an Xacto / hobby knife works, and using wire cutters or other tools that aren't made for modeling work will get the job done, but will leave you with jacked up plastic anyplace you make cuts. This usually gives you crappy looking nub marks that can really make the model look cheap. You can fix that with sanding, but it's MUCH easier to clean up a nub if you barely make any marks to begin with. A "side-cutter" is the tool you want. They look a lot like other kinds of scissor-style cutter tools, but only one of the two sides is sharp. The idea with a side-cutter is the dull side reinforces the piece you're cutting through, holding it in place and giving you a smoother cut with less stretching. The plastic turning white is actually it being stretched as it's cut.
Once I heard about side-cutters I got myself some GodHand ones. Those are like $60 so not what I'd recommend a beginner buy unless you're made of money. I think these Tamiya side-cutters are OK? Others on this sub will probably have better suggestions on this topic ;)

I've become a fan of sanding sponges recently. I definitely would recommend checking your hobby shop's selection of sanding implements to see what they have in the way of sanding sticks, sponges, and other abrasives. IMO you'll want like 500 grit, 1000 grit, and 2000 grit versions of whatever you get, and you'll want to use each of those in ascending order. Higher number = finer sanding surface. The rough bits are smaller and closer together, so you will get a smoother surface. I do 500 to get rid of the big remnants of a nub, then up it to 1000 once it's pretty smooth, and then 2000 when I'm just about done and just want to get a good finish. I use the coarser stuff first because it's way faster at removing plastic. You could JUST use 2000, but it would take forever...

The fundamentals of getting the parts off the runners as nicely as possible, and then getting them as clean as you can before assembly are IMO the key to doing good models. I'd recommend getting solid at this stuff with a few kits you don't need to paint before you graduate to also doing painting, it's a whole other set of stuff to learn ;)

u/_Whammo_ · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Hey! I was in a similar situation a few months ago with around a $200 budget as well. Here's what I got:

Airbrush: Iwata Revolution - It's a great airbrush and is almost always on sale on Amazon for under $100. It's easy to use, easy to clean, and is solvent safe, meaning you can spray more than just acrylics.

Compressor: Master Airbrush - I wanted something with a tank on it because I didn't want it to run the entire time, and this one fit the bill. It's super quiet (I can even run it at night), and it comes with a moisture trap, which is super important. It also comes with a hose!

That brings everything to about $200, so there's not much wiggle room to fit other stuff in if you draw a hard line on your budget, but definitely consider:

Spray Booth: Master Airbrush- This thing is amazing. I love it. It's compact and super easy to use. It folds up super tidy and even has a button to retract the cord.

Cleaner: Iwata-Medea Airbrush Cleaner - comes in different sizes, but it's been wonderful when cleaning out my brush between paints or when I need to do my monthly field-strip.

Thinner, Retarder, and Flow Improver: Vallejo products!- I love the Vallejo Auxillaries. They're easy to use, pretty cheap, and widely available depending where you live.

u/Vonderboy · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I use hard Wave sticks too and love them. They sand very flat (something I liked files for) but are quite gentle on the plastic in terms of deap scratches. BUT for some reason the 800 grit is disconnected like in your link. Anyone know where else you can get it?

In terms of files I have the Tamiya basic , Tamiya fine basic , and a (hopefully) nicer plastic hobby file on order just to try. Files are nice for larger jobs like serious molding flaws (not common in Bandai kits) and the fine ones are OK for nubs but still quite rough compared to any sanding stick. Although, as you know I'm sure, files last forever and require much less effort and time to chew through plastic. I'm hoping the plastic file is the Holy grail and is a good balance. I bought a set of needle files and diamond files from harbor freight and they blow. The trash just don't grip or cut don't waste your $3.

And as a reference I own Revell, squadron , nail buff sticks, and have made my own sticks from automotive sand paper. The nail files are way too rough imo, making my own is a pain, and while the squadron sticks are nice I mainly only used the tri-grit while I used all the Revell except the roughest and are probably the best value imo. I still use the other more flexible kinds but dramatically prefer wave. Wish the 800 grit still were available.

Long post sorry. Hope it helps

Edits: spelling, phrasing, and lots of links

u/LoganMcOwen · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

It's amazing what you can find on Amazon Prime. From rubber bands to advanced robotics, there's a vast plethora of items that you can have dumped on your doorstep the next day, all for absolutely free - Well, not really, there's a monthly subscription fee. But anyway, is Gunpla available on Prime? Well, not much, but yeah. The cheapest of which is the old HGUC RGM-79, the original GM from Mobile Suit Gundam, which you can swipe for a little over a tenner. However, this kit is not only classic in its design, but also as a kit - This comes from 2001, just ten years after High Grade was announced. It's certainly leaps ahead of its predecessors, but how does it stack up today?

In short: Reasonably well.

There's no skipping and dancing around the fact that this is a fairly dated model. But even so, it still looks alright, if quite simplistic. But you know what? It's anime accurate in that sense - MSG didn't have the high amount of detail found in IBO or Thunderbolt's linart, nor the slick CGI of The Origin. So the RGM-79 being such a slick and simple kit is very fitting for what it is. The overall shaping is very recogniseable, seeing as this GM model was based on the original Gundam, the RX-78-9. It differs however with much blockier arms and flatter kneepads, and of course a much more robotic head with that visor. As for the colours, the minty green blends unusually well with the bright Bandai red. Not so sure about the black sticker on the tummy though, or the fact that the ankle mechanics are also minty green.

In terms of construction, the RGM-79 is very simplistic, which is evident when you see just how small the kit's box is! You get two runners of plastic parts - one in multiple colours, another in the minty green - a runner of polycaps, and one lone sticker. These parts go together relatively easily, resulting in a figure which has just enough mobility;

  • The head can rotate and tilt on a balljoint, but cannot look up and down that much at all.
  • The shoulders can rotate forward, back and out on fixed dowels attached to the back upper torso piece - No swing-out polycap.
  • There's a bicep cut, a single jointed elbow with a 90° bend, and balljoint wrists.
  • The torso can pop upwards slightly to allow for tilting from side to side. It can also swivel at the waist.
  • The side skirts and front skirt (yes, singular) can all swing out. The front skirt is quite limited, but you can get more range by popping the torso upwards.
  • There is no thigh cut, but the hip joint is a balljoint with a decent range of motion.
  • The double jointed knee provides a little over 90°.
  • The ankles are on balljoints, with a fair amount of motion in all the required directions.
  • The ankle guards can swivel up and down.
  • The shield attaches to the arm via a dowel, but has a balljoint for positioning.

    Due to its simple construction, the model feels both lightweight but also very solid. While the mobility leaves a lot to be desired, it's still good enough for what this MS is - You can still attain some decent action poses if you so desire.

    One surprising aspect of the construction is the head - Two parts sandwich together, with one translucent part snapped onto the front part to provide the visor and camera. This means that the head is entirely hollow! This however is fine, as it's not too obvious. The lower legs are also ridiculously simplistic, simply consisting of two parts that sandwhich around a single polycap for the knee joint. The mechanism for the waist section is interesting, although it would've been nice to get an ab-crunch of some description too. Honestly the only really disappointing thing about this kit in terms of mobility is those shoulders. While the upper arm can move about as much as you'd like it to, the shoulders themselves feel very static. But honestly that's fine, as this isn't exactly an MS you're going to be putting into zany karate poses.

    One big thing I'll warn about with this kit is the beam saber - It's a toothpick. If you have a spare beam saber effect part however, you can easily mod a peg hole into the removable hilt from the GM's backpack, and give him some proper sharps.

    All in all, for its time this kit is pretty nice. It looks the business, and is honestly as poseable as it needs to be. Some may find it disappointing, but as it's a cheap, massable grunt suit, you can't really knock it. I'd certainly recommend the RGM-79 for anybody looking for a simple kit to pass the time with, but if you're looking for mobility I'd go for something newer - the HG Revive RX-78-2 perhaps?

    EDIT: Full disclosure - I am neither endoresed nor sponsored by Amazon. I just enjoy next-day delivery a bit too much, much to the dismay of my wallet.
u/fxakira · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

HG: The Try Burning gundam has been recommended a lot, and for good reasons. The kit is inexpensive, the aesthetic is on point, and the articulation and range of motion does not leave you wanting more. The RX-78-2 Revive are great as well.

RG: MKII (Titans or AEUG colors, don't matter). Simple build for RG but rock solid and poses extremely well. Put a smile on you when you finish building it and the sticker decal blows it out of the park. 5/7 would build again. If RG is your thing after you tried one or two kits, the RG Unicorn is the best that this line has to offer.

MG: A lot of MGs are great to start out with. If you want something with great mechanical details and articulation, the Freedom 2.0 / Justice 2017 / Providence gundam all share that same inner frame and outstanding armor details that are difficult to beat. I have heard great things about any kits that have the Zaku 2.0 frame, and the Strike ver. RM and similar kits (Strike Rouge Ootori, I think?).

u/HeyItsJay · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I'm not a veteran by any means in terms of Airbrushing (I've airbrushed 2 kits... a MG Strike Freedom & a MG Nu)

For both of them I went with a very cheap set-up...

For the Airbrush I used a Iwata Neo Gravity which I bought at Hobby Lobby for about $45 w/ their 40% off Coupon :P and it was a great starter airbrush, to me it was straight to the point and definitely something I'd recommend.

As far as my compressor goes, I went with Master Compressor. Reason being is it had a Hose, Water Trap & the Compressor. It works great and I still use it and I like it.

I didn't have a Spray Booth and went with spraying in a damn tub I bought at Walmart for $3 lol and didn't even have a mask...

I highly recommend getting one as it definitely helps out.

I recently bought one and I now use the MSA Safety Works Mask. I started painting my 3rd Airbrushed Kit (about 3 pieces primered lol) and this mask is a god send. I was killing myself before and don't suggest you do the same.

With a Airbrush & the Compressor Set that I linked you should be good to go all you really need is paint which I bought all of mine at the time from Hobby Town USA since they carry Tamiya Paints which are very user friendly and I thinned it 1:1 with 91% Isoprophyl Alcohol from Walmart.

I was in the very same position as you lol, I built about 9 kits before starting a Airbrushed model.

I recently purchased another Airbrush, I got the Master G23 and I've only used Primer on it but it's pretty good, the action isn't as great as my Neo but it's nice enough since I'm no pro and I feel it matches my skill level.

If you have any other questions I can help you as much as I can.


I have used the Master Airbrush to paint my Hi-Nu Bust(Scroll down for it) and my MG Unicorn.

Both came out pretty well and to be honest I don't suggest you start with a Airbrush that is expensive... I've done some decent work on my stuff using the Iwata Neo & the Master which both we're under $50... Decent enough to place in contests.


Also godamn, a Sotar 2020 to start with is really nice and might be excessive but jesus it's nice lol.

u/Obliviousobi · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

>I can still see some nub marks, I think this is just cause I was lazy and didn't sand after removing the nub...

>1. I tried to do pencil shading but it doesn't look very good to me. Is it too light? I'm planning on going back over it again tonight. I'm using HB lead that I crush and a q-tip to apply. Would a beauty blender be better for applying it? The q-tip can be hard to control at times but I may just need more practice.

>2. I plan on using a clear matte top coat after I'm done shading/weathering before I put the decals on. Will matte be ok or should I use gloss? The final look I want is for it to be matte but I've read on here that decals adhere better to a glossy surface?

>3. After I spray the matte top coat will that degrade/reduce my shading? Basically, should I shade darker to compensate for top coat?

>4. If I spray a matte topcoat now then shade more and apply another matte topcoat will that have any difference visually compared to just shading darker now and applying one topcoat?

  1. You should grab a Gundam Marker or even a panel line wash like or

  2. You should clear coat-details/decals-matte coat. Decals adhere best to smooth surfaces, many gloss coat before decals to help reduce "silvering"

  3. Typically I would say not. There may be a slight fading, but that is mostly due to matte changing how light reflects.

  4. I wouldn't want to do detail work on a matte finish, a smooth finish is easier for clean up and control. If anything you could detail, gloss, and then matte, clear coats (at least Future) seem to make colors a bit darker.
u/crazypipo · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

You have three options for panel line;

  1. Gundam Marker. Basically a fine point pen. The result is always a thick line, but can be easily clean up with just plain q-tip (or dip in a bit of rubbing alcohol for even easier cleanse). Great for filling in black/dark details. You can also use other fine point pens as a substitute.

  2. Gundam Marker, pour type. Different mixture of ink. Dab on to panel lines and ink will just run along the line. Much easier to use than regular fine point. Much easier to use with 1/144 models which have smaller lines. Cleanup with rubbing alcohol or enamel thinner (or even your finger if you are lazy). This can eats up paint layer if you paint your model and don't gloss coat before apply the marker.

  3. Tamiya's Panel Line Accent. Best of all IMO. One bottle last months...of years! Works very similar to the pour type, but better. Clean up with enamel thinner.


    Some people use pencil, but I don't find that method to be efficient. You can also mix your own paint but why bother when there is already a pre-mixed solutions.
u/Nightfalcon4 · 4 pointsr/Gunpla

Ok, I see this is a bit touchy lol. But it's definitely worth investing in some form of set of tools eventually. Start small. A pair of cutters like this will do wonders in the beginning. A little sandpaper, you can get from the dollar store if you want. And a marker, if you really want to stay cheap with it, you can use a crayola marker and wipe away excess with a tissue or q-tip.

I want to share my hobby with someone who wants to get started, but remember, it is a hobby and it is still a model. It's part of what makes the experience awesome. You can start small and always revisit a kit if you want to make it look better. You don't need the marker or pen, but it does add a new dimension to the kit. An X-acto is recommended, but not required. The motor control happens with time and patience.

But I digress, just remember, this is a model. Like any other model, you can make it look amazing, but you need to also put forth the effort. Good luck on your kit and remember, it's about having fun lol. Or else why do it in the first place?

u/soozafone · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

I started without watching too. Super hooked now. Please help.

My starter suggestions:

  • HG Revive RX-78-2 - This is the "Granddaddy" Gundam, and this recent version of it is cheap, easy, and super fun to play with.

  • HG Origin Char's Zaku II - The classic antagonist, another excellent model. Whereas the Revive goes for a sleek and simple look, this guy instead goes for extra detail while still being rock solid.

  • HG 00 Raiser - Holds a special place in my heart as the second model I put together when I was in the same position as you. Also excellent model.

  • HG Gundam Fenice - Representing the Build Fighters line, which are stylistic, modified versions of other kits. I recommend watching the anime (both seasons available on YouTube) as well.

  • MG Ball ver. Ka - A gentle introduction to the MG 1/100 scale. Bigger, more details. Lots of decals. Everyone on this sub loves the Ball for some reason.

  • RG Astray Red Frame - Real Grades are the same size as High Grades, but with hella more detail and lots of tiny parts. You get a lot in a small package, for a low price. Tackle this once you're confident in your building abilities because they do require more patience and precision. Red Frame is one of the better ones IMO.

    Right now all of these are available at pretty good prices with Prime shipping from Amazon.

    Happy building!
u/Mughi · 1 pointr/Gunpla

The cool thing about RGs and a lot of newer MGs is that the armor parts are specifically designed to hide the seams, so you don't have to worry so much about it. If you want an easier way to do your kits, invest a little money in a really good pair of side cutters, a good blade (I like to use 30 degree-angled blades, for better control). The old #11 X-Acto is too easy to slip and take off more plastic than you want (or part of your finger). Some fine-to-ultra-fine grit sandpaper is useful, too, but not necessary if your cutter and knife do a clean enough job, and you're careful about what you cut. I get my sandpaper at auto supply stores. You can get up to 2000-grit paper and it's a lot cheaper than buying specialty hobby sandpaper. Some fine point tweezers for decals and markings, a cutting pad, and maybe a panel liner or two, and you're good to go. An investment of less than the price of a good Master Grade should get you set up. If you invest a little in good tools, you'll find that the "work" part of the hobby goes a lot more smoothly.

Also: keep those old kits that you think you've messed up. Use them as paint hulks, practice cutting and panel lining on them, use them as victims in dioramas and battle displays; get inspiration from them! They're not mistakes, they're lessons. Oh, and remember that the pictures you see on the blogs and in the magazines are made by artists. Not everyone can draw, or play music, or write poetry, and not everyone can build $2000 garage kits and make them look like museum pieces. That's not the point. The point is that you enjoy it. If you aren't enjoying it, don't do it. But if you like it, practice, and you will get better and better, even if you don't become a Gunpla god(dess).

edit: splelgin

u/fissionxmailed · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Nice build. I have this in my backlog as well as the effect part set for it. Hopefully will get to it one day.

As for kit recommendations.

If going HG recommend the HG Revive RX 78-2 (

Very newcomer friendly. Also good if you wanna start panel lining. Articulation is also great and you can do many awesome poses.

As for MG, the RX 78-2 (Origin) ( or Wing Proto Zero ( are nice kits as straight builds. Although you can practice panel lining with those as well.

But feel free to branch out. Gunpla is freedom.

The IBO line is also good, both the HG's and NG's (No MG's exist for IBO as of yet).

u/cheese61292 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Some Compressor + Airbrush sets are good (like those from Pasche or Iwata) but it's all relative to your needs (as a good brush might not be good for Gunpla due to the scale) and what is offered.

There's actually a very good deal going on right now, as you can get a Paasche TG-3F with Compressor and all your needed accessories + Prime shipping (or free Super Saver shipping.)

With this set you have all you need to functionally airbrush but you'll also want to pick up some needed "accessories" for you.

  • Respirator, at least a half mask - Local Hardware Store for best options
  • P100 Filters - same as above
  • Alligator Clips on Sticks - you can pick them up at Hardware or Hobby Stores locally as well
  • Foam Block to put the skewers into and hold up the parts while you paint. Local hobby store, or if you have the packaging material used to ship heavy electronics like TVs that would work as well.
  • Spray Booth, if you plan to spray inside at least
  • Airbrush Lube, Iwata SuperLube or Badger Needle Juice
  • Cleaning Brushes, just part of your more in depth cleaning routine that you'll need to do.

    You will also want to pick up some glass jars (for storing & mixing paints) as well as some plastic pipes for more accurate paint measurements (makes the jars less messy as well.)

    I highly suggest getting an easy to clean brand of paint like Vallejo Air to start with, so you can learn with less trouble as Vallejo can be cleaned up in an instant with Windex or water.
u/TarmacFFS · 1 pointr/Gunpla

It depends on how invested you want to get. If you want a very good airbrush, get an Iwata, Paasche, or a Badger. I have a Badger, but I end up using my son's Master Airbrush most of the time because I don't need superfine detail for Gunpla. He has this kit and it has served both of us very well.

TCP Global also has great customer service. Or at least, their customer service to me has always been fantastic. It's a great starter kit that can be expanded later on with an external tank or a better airbrush. But for the price, it's a great value if it's in your budget.

u/CivilC · 1 pointr/Gunpla
  1. For me I generally just prime and then paint. You can get away with sanding and then painting, but I reserve that for smaller surface areas and for pieces that are going to be painted in a darker or similar color to the original plastic.

  2. You just add thinner to a portion of your paint to make it more dilute and in turn saving paint. It's recommended you take a few drops of your color and thin that instead of thinning your whole pot so the paint doesn't coagulate and "spoil" if you're using a weird thinner (some people don't have this problem, so you can try that out if you want).
    The consistency you want for your thinned paint varies depending on the method of application, but for handpainting, most people thin it to the consistency of water. Not so thin that it's water color-like, but just when it has that watery consistency, that's perfect. I've done this with enamel paints and enamel thinner and the results were great.
  3. If what you're talking about regarding glue is seamline removal, you do not want to use super glue for this. Use liquid plastic cement like Tamiya or Testors depending on what's available to you. And yes, apply the cement, sand the seam away, and then paint. It makes sense when you think about it; you don't want to sand your paintjob away
  4. Tip: after you prime, you're not done! Check for any imperfections in the kit like holes or nubs left over from building. You can now sand and fill in those mistakes with putty and then reprime and check again. This is a major step that decides how well your paintjob will turn out.

    hope this helps
u/millerhkl · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Since you have a Harbor Freight near you, if you don't care about noise, then this post from awhile back is still relevant for your budget. If you live in an apartment and/or noise matters, then cheap Master airbrush sets are your best bet.

If you want to build a ghetto spray booth AND care about your health, this guide is a good read. Otherwise, Master Portable Booths get the job done, though they seem to be a lot more expensive now than they were a couple months ago (~$60-$70 with shipping). If you can get them cheap, they are very portable when folded up, which is great for storage in an apartment and travelling to gunpla builder get-togethers. But they are basically high power computer fans with a power supply, basic fiberglass filters, and a plastic housing, which can be DIY for less.

edit: NEOs are good but sometimes if you are patient, you can get a significantly better brush for less. Some good ones are:

  • Sparmax sp35
  • Badger Patriot 105
  • Iwata Revolution HP BR

    There are some caveats with each of these, such as not having extra nozzles of different sizes, or not having good local suppliers for replacement parts. On that note, if you buy off of Craigslist, you should try to get as much of a discount as possible, even if it still looks "brand new." If it breaks down on you right away, depending on how difficult it is to procure replacement parts, you might as well have bought a brand new brush to begin with. But sometimes you can get a really good deal.

    It's also not a bad idea to start off cheap to see if you enjoy airbrushing, have a feasible set up for it, AND have the time for it to make it worth your while. From a cheap brush like a NEO or a Master kit, you can incrementally upgrade brush, compressor, accessories for the most part, so long as you can find the right adapters for the various air tool fittings. Old or "bad" brushes can still be good for laying down primer or basecoats that are harder to mess up, while reserving the better brushes for shading and detail work.
u/carlouws · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

As others have said, I strongly recommend this compresor. This is the one I used until I upgraded to an Iwata one. A tank is good because it's not only your first line of defense against any moisture build-up but it also prolongs the life of your compressor.

The reason I recommend the Iwata HP-C Plus is because it is pretty much the best all around airbrush. The size .3mm is perfect for gunpla. To priming, base coats and even pre-shading if you would like to do so. Iwata has a great community on airbrush forums and there's ton of documentation and parts for mods and customizing your airbrush to your own personal needs. This brush will last you a lifetime. I own a Iwata HP-C Plus and an Iwata CM-CP2 and I use the HP-C Plus for almost everything.

Keep in mind that you will also need to spend money on all kind of tools to aid you in the painting process such as skewers, alligator clips, something to put the pieces while you paint and while they dry, paint thinner and so on.

u/Gungyver · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I do not like to use spray cans form bad passed experience when i was five or six. However, a lot of people use spray cans, however you can also get good results justusing hand painting.

A descent airbrush starter kit, starts at around 80 bucks

Gravity feeds are what i prefer to use but they do take some time to clean when you change paint colors. However, reservoir feeds are faster to clean but for myself they are a bit harder to maintain.

This set is about 100 bucks but it comes with both types of airbrush.

I have tried several brands of airbrush paints and i like Wicked colors airbrush paints the best, they are also made in the USA and are self curing water based. they can also be used as hand paints if you want to go with self made colors. here is a link:

if you do go with mixing your own colors, I find that using a small digital scale, to measure the paint's weight is the easiest way to reproduce the colors you make.

Ether way I recamend that you to get some primer ether way as it allows the paint to adhere better to a gunpla. I like to use Vallejo Grey Primer which you can also paint on with a brush.

u/iDingo91 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I believe I have finally decided on my first Gunpla, the HG Age II Magnum and want to make sure the items I have added to my Amazon cart are ideal or not for a beginner/future use for HG and MG kits. The list is as follows:

  • Gundam Model Builder's Cutting Mat 12"x9"
  • Findfly 9Pcs Gundam Model Tool Kit
  • Gundam Marker Value Set
  • Mr. Super Clear Flat Spray
  • Bamboo Skewers
  • Alligator Clips
  • ScotchBlue Painter's Tape
  • Styrofoam Blocks

    I know that this sub has a list of tools and tutorials, but because I'm trying to budget, I was thinking no more than $100 would be ideal for me to start with. Since I'm beginning with HG models, I don't think I need a full set of Gundam markers, but if it's needed/required/highly suggested, I might pick them up as well.

    So I have read and seen that top coating and panel lining are essential for MG models to make them pop. Are they just as essential for HG model kits? Looking at pictures of the Age II Magnum I'm planning on getting from Amazon, it doesn't seem to have a lot of indents for panel lining. Of course, I could be wrong and be blind as a bat. If I don't do any sort of panel lining, is it still a good idea to add a top coat regardless?

    Also, how soon can one get into MG kits? I was originally going to jump straight into either the MG GM Sniper II or the RX-78-2 Ver 3.0 but after doing some research over the past few days, I've decided I'll be doing a few HG's to begin with as I haven't built model kits since I was like 7 or 8 with my dad. I'm thinking after the Age II Magnum, I was thinking about getting either the HG Double O Diver or the HG 00 Shia Qan[T]. Maybe after I complete the 3 HG's I've listed, is it possible to jump to the the GM Sniper II?


  • Are the items I have listed a good starting point?

  • Is a full set of Gundam Markers a necessity for HG/beginners?

  • Are panel lining and top coatings important for HG model kits?

  • Is it okay to use top coat on an HG model if no panel lining is used?

  • Edit Do people usually top coat the accessories? I can't seem to find any info on that.

  • What color panel lining pens do people normally use based on different parts of Gunpla's?

  • What level of skill should one be at before getting into MG model kits?

u/penguin055 · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

By Zaku Revive, did you mean one of the Origin kits or the Gouf Revive? Because I don't believe they have released a Zaku Revive yet. As for what to build next, pretty much any modern HG kit is going to be easy to assemble, but the Revive kits are some of the best out there. Unfortunately, there is no Guntank Revive, but the Guncannon Revive is a great kit, and the Zeon side has the Gouf Revive and Gyan Revive so far.

As for panel lining, you just need some lining markers or pens (I suggest these). All you need to do is use them to fill in the panel lines on the kit and maybe some of the other recesses (you can look at photos of the kit with panel lines in the instruction manual for guidance) and then use some Q-tips to wipe off the excess.

u/SeiJai · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

So ideally you go to a local hobby store and look at what models they have, then pick one you like and within your price range. You can start off with 1/144 scale HGs (High Scale), but I am a firm believer that if you can follow instructions, you can start at any scale and any grade. I am a sucker for kits with cool box arts (like the MG Shin Musha). Get a pair of side cutters to help with [piece from tree removal] ( Obviously, shop around to get a good price. There are a wealth of useful links and threads on right hand column under "Current Events" (not sure why it is under current events...) Other model kits include [Zoids] (, Evangelion, and even [Batman] ( There are also like tanks and planes and battleships...

u/Shenaniganz08 · 0 pointsr/Gunpla

you don't really need sandpaper if you have good tools to begin with

bare minimum

  1. Xacto blade (recommend any of the ones that have rubber like the x2000 plus at least 2 new blades for each kit you build

  2. Side cutters: Get the Tamiya Sharp sided cutters They are expensive but worth ever penny, especially if you plan on building more than one kit

  3. Gundam Markers: Get a fine tipped black and a fine tipped grey. These will work for most colors

    After that its whatever you think you might need

    If you are going to get the RG Freedom (absolutely awesome kit) you should also consider

    1)Any clear blue paint ( you'll need it for the sensors)

  4. Action base 2 (highly recommend since this kit was made to be airborne)
u/TsundereBolt · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

Your panel lining looks really great, but if you want something that provides great results and is actually much easier, grab some Tamiya panel liner. It's pre-thinned enamel paint that you just tap on the panel line and watch it run down the line by itself. Then you just let it dry for about 10-15 minutes and rub away any excess with a q-tip and some lighter fluid. Makes panel lining much less of a chore.

Welcome to the community!

Edit: Forgot about top coating, I use matte top coats to give it a more realistic look. I apply it over both painted and unpainted kits, as it dulls the shine on unpainted kits as well as protects paint/decals. I've used several different brands at this point, and they all do about the same. Testors dullcote, Tamiya TS-80, and Mr Top coat all work well.

u/Vizgar · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Well.. being completely new to airbrushing and not wanting to dump too much cash into it i got this simple set:
It is quite weak, and very limited but hey... it works :) i was having a blast working and learning with it. Surely a great buy if your interested just in trying it out :)

Also, make sure to grab a proper respirator with gas filters... health is more important then gunpla ;)

u/The_Squiv · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Thanks for the tip, I’ll keep that in mind. Right now, I’m starting at the feet and working my way up.

As for the sanding sticks, they’re Squadron brand . They’re inexpensive but they’re fantastic. The only downside is that they don’t have a grit rating on them. But it comes with a Coarse, Medium, Fine, Extra Fine, and a Tri-Grit, which is good for finishing. The amazon pack shows that it comes with a finishing stick, but it doesn’t. It instead has an Extra-Fine grit stick. I find myself using the medium, fine, extra-fine, and tri-grit sticks pretty often. I’ve yet to need the coarse one.

I’d highly recommend the brand. They’ve served me well and I plan to get more when these wear down.

u/Marth171 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

As a few others have mentioned, the MG Sazabi Ver. Ka is the companion kit to the Nu Ver. Ka. Right now it is $85 on amazon, which is $15 above your price range. However, $85 is a great price for the kit considering the lowest price it has been on amazon was $74. As a side note, I have to say the Sazabi Ver Ka is one of the best kits I have ever built.

Another option is the Hi-Nu Ver. Ka. It is an alternate version of the Nu Gundam (the one that you linked). From what I understand, the Hi-Nu is an amazing kit, and is currently $73 on amazon.

Keeping in the same set of kits, you can get several SD kits. They are smaller cuter versions of the full kits and are much cheaper and easier to build. Plus getting three of them will cost about $40. Here are the links:

Nu Gundam SD

Sazabi SD

Hi-Nu Gundam SD

I hope this helped. If you can find out more about which series they like, we can offer more suggestions.

u/tuna1997 · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

These ones on amazon are pretty popular. I'm not from North America but I'm using this exact model but isn't masters branded, I got mine from ali express.

I assume they all come from the same factory in China and Masters just put their brand on it for those in North America. I've had mine for just less than a year now, I haven't had an issue with it. I also often see a lot of modellers on YouTube like Scale Modelling Channel and Itsagunpla using the same or similar models of spraybooths.

They work quite well, the included lights are bright, the fans are quite powerful. And if I'm not mistaken you can connect 2 units together to get even more powerful ventilation. It's not terribly loud at full power either.

It's a little bit hit or miss though, I have a friend who bought this model and his broke about 3, 4 months into using it. He bought another one though and hasn't had a problem after 6ish months. So just keep that in mind.

I'd imagine if you get the Masters branded one you'd at least be able to contact them if you have an issue with your unit.

u/fartbringer · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

I use these:

I use a black for parts that are molded in a dark color, and a grey for things that are much lighter. They're really easy to use, and you don't have to be precise with them. Keep some q-tips and a bit of rubbing alcohol handy, though. Just set the ink into the panel line in as many passes as you fee is needed. Let it dry for just a little bit, then gently flick over the line using the q-tip. Don't even push down that hard, just gently stroke over the area. This will help spread ink away from the line, if not pick it up entirely. Any excess can be rubbed off using another q-tip with a very modest amount of rubbing alcohol on it. It'll come right up and leave your lines filled.

There's a lot of tutorials on youtube, and various methods (I've heard a lot that panel washing works best, but haven't tried it), but that's how I do mine and I'm pleased with the results.

I would suggest buying a really cheap HG kit that you can screw around on, test a bunch of different techniques and see what works best for you. That way if you totally screw up you won't be out of a lot of money.

edit: Also, there's alternatives to these pens. I used some sakura microns I had laying around on my first HG and it looked good, but buying a set of those is going to be more expensive in the long run than getting gundam pens. I've seen some individual very fine point pens at Michaels for about a buck or two, but I've not yet tried them. They seem like they can get the job done, though.

u/GunplaCyril · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Don't go the cheap route in buying an airbrush. I HIGHLY recommend you buy an airbrush from iwata, their quality and prices are great. I myself use an Iwata HP C Plus for 2 years and it still is my go-to brush. It can do anything, from fine detail jobs to wide sprays for blending. For an air compressor, you should get one with a tank. Here is a good set to buy Iwata w/ compressor combo. Save up and go for quality on airbrushes, trust me.

Or if you want to save up on money, you can buy another Iwata airbrush, the HP CR Revolution gravity feed which is a great airbrush at a fraction of the price.

For airtanks, I've used a couple, but they really don't differ much with brands in my opinion. Go for an air compressor with a tank like this one from amazon.

Now if you're looking for a high quality airbrush and price doesn't matter, I recommend you buy this badboy from hobbywave. Its my second airbrush, and it handles like a dream.

Hope this helps.

u/Treefiddyt · 1 pointr/Gunpla

If you are going to go that right i'd try this.

I bought a masters brush as my first and it was actually amazing for 25$ that i paid. obvious buying a cheap airbrush you could have issues so always something to keep in mind.

IF you or your family already has a cheap air compressor (pancake compressor) then you could use that and just get the brush, fitting, and moister trap. I'm currently using a pancake compressor. It's really loud... but it keeps the job done.

Also, do not go with enamel. Acrylic will be the paint you want to use. It will be the easier and safest. Tamiya is a good one if you can get your hands on it. Tamiya is a hybrid paint, but its relatively safe. If you use lacquer or enamel you will have to have good ventilation and use a respirator. With acrylics you can use 90% alcohol to clean your brush or look up cheap mixes that people have come up with themselves.

u/fusilli_zaitsev · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I started building gunpla early this year and have done about 30 kits, so no expert but I have some experience to stand on. That being said, the HGUC RX-78-2 Revive was my first kit and I'd recommend that to anyone. The kit is forgiving (white doesn't show nub-marks/stress marks as much as dark colors), it doesn't require too much from the builder, and the end result is very stable and articulate. It's what cemented my new hobby. And it's relatively cheap at ~$14 US.

For a lengthier and more complicated build (though I would argue not really more difficult) I'd suggest the RG Gundam Mark II. Again, the kit succeeds in being stable, articulate, and the build progresses rather seamlessly. It also looks really awesome when completed.

There are a few other builds that for me stand out as being just very satisfying-- the HG Gerbera Tetra, the RG Char's Z'Gok- but the two I've singled out above are superlative in my opinion.

u/Lehovron · 1 pointr/Gunpla

You need the tools and you need the space. I used a circular saw and tried my best to get straight corners and square pieces but it is a little crooked here and there. A table saw would have been awesome to have for this.

If you have those tools and know how to use them, this is not a hard thing to build.

But honestly, I thought I was saving money building my own like this but I am pretty sure this thing would have been cheaper. Even with the adapter I would need to use it in Sweden...

u/Type43TARDIS · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

I have found that the easiest (and cheapest) way to up your model kit game is to panel line them. It makes the color separation pop way more, and helps define the proportions of a kit much better. A three pack of the panel linking markers are on Amazon for 5-7$ usa (link below). I recommend using the gray marker for white parts, brown for red orange gold and yellow parts, and black for blue gray and silver parts. The markers last a very long tine as well.

Another way is to buy some sanding sticks (10$ roughly for a 4 pack) and work on carefully removing nub marks. It will really improve the final presentation on the finished model. Start with a lower grit stick to remove the nub, and then increase the grit to polish away the scratches. If done correctly (I'm still working on this too) it will look like the nub was never there.

I Hope this helps, from one modeler to another.

Panel lining markers:

GSI Creos Gundam Marker Value Set -GM01&02&03- (Black, Gray, Brown)

Sanding sticks:

Squadron Products Value Pack Sanding Stick

Edit: also the panel lining will help the paint job pop. In addition I'd saw use multiple coats from the gundam makers if possible.

u/signint · 5 pointsr/Gunpla

Wow I love the look of that kit!!! I'll tell you right now, Pledge clear will be your best friend for removing any stress marks or scratches from removing/sanding nubs

As far as clean decal work goes, make sure to clean the surface of the model with a degreaser before applying the decal. Then, after you cut out the decal and soak it, take it out of the water, still on the paper, and slide it straight on to the model.

u/psycovirus · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

If you live in the US, Masters Airbrushes are very affordable test beds for air brushing.

Master Airbrush Multi-purpose Gravity Feed Dual-action Airbrush Kit

With an Air Tank.

If you live in other countries, you can consider AS186. Almost the same compressor but 220V. You can get a Chinese airbrush for testing purposes.

If you like Aurbrushing, you can upgrade to more branded Airbrushes like Iwata and Badger while keeping the Compressor... Then use the budget airbrush for Priming and such.

I personally have the AS186 for a year and painted assortment of 15+ HGs and MGs with it. Used included China airbrush for a few kits before deciding to get a Sparmax Airbrush since I'm convinced I'll enjoy airbrushing

Branded Airbrush gives better control over the thickness of the line, better for pre-shading.

u/o0BlackDragon0o · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Take your time to clean nub marks, it really does make a massive difference at the end, and is totally worth the time it takes.

as for other stuff that really makes a difference, get a panel line marker, they are dirt cheap and make so much difference to a kit.

the final thing is to get some matte clear coat, this gets rid of the "plastic" look to a kit, you will need to get a specialist one for plastic tho, so it get a little more expensive, a can like the one linked would last for 6-7 hg kits easily. if you have a games workshop near you as well, they also sell clear coat, though i would only reccomend this if you cant get mr. super clear or tamita stuff shipped to you, as its more expensive in my experience.

Good luck building your kit and welcome to the hobby!

u/zeWoah · 1 pointr/Gunpla

If I were to go back in time I would just not have bought it and bought a nicer version of each tool separately since I like to invest in the long run.

In my opinion, the xacto knife that comes with the kit isn't secure enough, ie it may wobble during precise cutting. I'd recommend just getting a hobby knife off Amazon or wherever.

The sidecutters do the job but they aren't great. If you don't cut close to the piece, it won't bruise the plastic, but I would still recommend in investing in a good sidecutter if you're really interested in modeling. I personally use the Tamiya Sidecutters. They're expensive but they cut through the runners like butter.

All in all, the Tamiya basic tool set isn't bad- it's a decent toolkit and you can still use it on any model and still achieve a great finish, but you'll just have to work a bit harder.

u/Kalzic · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I have a few questions about enamel washing. I'm planning on using: Panel-Accent-Color and


Are there any alternatives to the thinner that I can use that are sold locally?

My real questions come with the step process of the enamel wash. I've been looking at multiple guides and reddit post and they differ. From what I've come to understand the step are as follows:

1)Before panel lining, apply a top coat.

2)enamel wash

3)Cotton swab and thinner

4)Final top coat, if I'm done building.

For my top coat I'm planning on using Matte Top coat. So if I'm using these materials, I would spray the part with the top coat, then I would apply the panel lines with the Tamiya panel line product, using the thinner I would carefully and gently clean the blobs that are outside of the panel lines. After I'm all done, I would spray one final top coat.

If I'm using these exact same materials does my coat before panel washing have to be different than my top coat when I'm done building?

I'm not planning on painting the kits any time soon.(Underlined text are the questions)

Sorry for the lengthy post and thanks for your help!

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Edit: Looks like list may not be showing so here are the components:

Airbrush: Iwata Plus C dual action

Compressor: Not sure which one to get?

Spray booth:

I'm currently in a studio apartment and in med school so obviously I'm tight on a lot of things, but I would like to get into airbrushing.

I've heard the iwata was good, but I'm confused about the compressors b/c I want something quiet so I chose a couple (two of them look to be the same). Also, instead of making a spray booth I wanted to save time and just get a pre made one.

If I order the iwata, a compressor (Are the ones I've chosen any good?), and a spray booth will I be set? Since I live in a small apartment I'm planning on using acrylics to be safe. Just to clarify, I've read the faq and other threads about airbrushing but wanted to see if this particular setup is any good.

u/BishopMiles · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

I got a question for you.
How much do you want to spend on cutters?

Some notable brands for cutters are (listed from price ascending) Xuron($10-$20), Tamiya($25-$30), Gundam Planet($35), and then Godhand($55-$??). (There might be others, but I have found these to be the most popular.)

Right now I have Gundam Planet nippers. They are the best nippers I have had so far, but I have only owned one other pair so dont take my word to heart. What ever you do don't go for a $5 pair not worth it at all. I did that and I spent more time fixing the mistakes those clippers did to my model.

Personal opinion get a pair of Tamiya Sharp Pointed Side Cutters or Gundam Planet Nippers. Here is a [comparison] ( between the two. In all honesty though I have no been able to replicate that slow cut with my GP nippers. Another point is I have been able to get pretty close if you scratch the white part with your finger nail it almost looks like the slow cut photo.

P.S. Really though all of your clean up with the nubs is going to be with sand paper and a razor blade of some sort. I just ordered myself a OLFA Rubber Grip Utility Knife, but you can also get a OLFA Cushion Grip Knife if you want one of them.

u/pianokid401 · 4 pointsr/Gunpla

Here's a link to the one I got on Amazon:

Master Airbrush Brand Portable Hobby Airbrush Spray Booth (without Optional LED Lighting) for Painting All Art, Cake, Craft, Hobby, Nails, T-shirts &

It's seems pretty good. I haven't been able to test mine with paint but I did plug it in real quick when I got it and it seems like it's pretty strong. Hopefully this week I'll be able to start.

u/fluffy_warthog10 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Tamiya Accent is actually jars of very very thin enamel. If you're planning on doing more than a few models a year, I'd take the plunge and get an entire set. It's easier to get a more natural and consistent look with fluid than with the markers. The grey is for white/very light colors, black for darker blue/green/greys, and browns for red/yellows.

This tutorial does a good job of explaining how it works, but I'll try to paraphrase.

The method is quite different from the markers. You definitely need a thick, gloss base (non-enamel!) of paint or clear coat, otherwise the thinner in the accent fluid will eat through the plastic. You simply take the little brush attached to the cap and drip a tiny amount of into panel and seam lines. Then you dab up the excess, let it dry, and clean up with lighter fluid (not alcohol or lacquer thinner).

Hope this clears it up a bit.

u/Draffut_ · 4 pointsr/Gunpla

>Where is the best place to get them?

Amazon. Especially if you have Prime. For SOME kits. Obviously there can be better deals on other sites and in person, but for some kits they can be pretty good.

For instance, and although you didnt ask, my recommendation for the perfect beginer's kit - The HGUC RX-78-2 Revive

u/pluck-the-bunny · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Great job first time out! I remember this kit fondly and can’t believe you found one. Everything u/levrin said is correct. If you are looking to continue, at the very least I recommend going out and purchasing an exacting knife/side cutters/ a set of paneling markers/and tweezers for decals.
Again. Great first outing and welcome to the hobby!
side cutters
paneling markers

Hope this helps

u/Stug_lyfe · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Gives more of a natural look on light colored armor plates, black gives more of a classic cartoon look. Brown is used for warm colors and sometimes zeon/zaft/etc suits. You are looking for something called a "fine tip gundam marker", You can get them online. There is also something called "panel line accent" which is applied with a brush and some people feel gives a more natural look, I would reccomend starting with the marker, as its easier to learn with. Keep a qtip around when using it incase your hand slips. any residue clears up with a bit of rubbing alchohol, dont use nail polish remover, it can melt plastic.

If you are going for 30 dollar tamiyas just drop the extra 5 dollars and get these, they come with free shipping on your whole order and tax free.

They also carry sanding sticks

u/Vonschlippe · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I suggest you buy an airbrush separately from your compressor rather than looking for a kit.

A good airbrush will make your experience easier, and if taken care of may last for decades. Since you won't need to "upgrade" later when you outgrow a kit airbrush, you end up saving.

I recommend looking for a double-action airbrush from either Badger, Iwata, or Paasche. Gravity feed airbrushes are easier to clean up, but the cup can be a visual obstruction if doing fine lines and details. I use a suction-feed Badger 150 from 1973 (inherited from my father) and it's still spraying like a charm.

As for compressors, look for a model with a tank. You can get a pretty silent, tank compressor on Amazon for relatively cheap. I used to own this one. The reason a tank is preferable to tankless is that it eliminates pulsations that may come from the piston, and it also means you don't have to run the compressor non-stop; just enough to fill the tank, and it will auto-fill up when you deplete that air past a minimum threshold. These compressors also come with a moisture trap and a pressure regulator, which are necessary elements if you want to correctly use an airbrush.

u/adrigreat14 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Well, the only things you really need to build a kit are a pair of hobby clippers and motivation. Everything else is optional, depending on how much effort you wanna put into making your model look as best as possible(hell, I used nail clippers of all things with my first gunpla because I didn't want to invest in tools before actually building one for myself and knowing if this was a hobby I wanted to pursue or not).

For this one I actually got a modeling toolkit, some Gundam markers for panel lining and a small cutting mat through amazon(although you might be able to find them at local hobby stores as well). I can't really speak for other tools, but these ones worked pretty well for me. If you're worried about costs you can always start with just some basic tools and slowly build your toolbox up from there as you build more models. Hopefully you have as much fun with your first gunpla as I had with mine!

P.S. Remember I'm also a newbie so take all of this with a grain of salt

u/alecKarfonta · 5 pointsr/Gunpla

Shows a comparison, using the same piece, of the cheap Amazon Platos and the God Hand. I have the Tamiya's that are clearly inspired by the God Hand, wondering if its worth the upgrade.

My nippers:

Anyone seen or used the one sided nippers?

u/Effion · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

I've been using a second hand Paasche airbrush since August, and it's been working really nicely for me. I really like how easy it is to disassemble and clean. I just ordered a new Paasche H to replace the one I've got because I like the design so much, and I'd like to finally have all the parts so I can try some of the fancier techniques I see folks pulling off (like shading and fine details).

I started out hand painting (and still do it when I just want to add some minor details), and having the airbrush is really convenient. I can spray all my parts in an hour or two (depending on how many parts and how many colors) and then work on other things for the rest of the evening, instead of having to devote an entire evening (or more) just to prep and painting.

If you don't have one, you'll want a compressor too. I love this one, it's nice and quiet when it runs. I've got it under my desk sitting on top of a towel and you can barely hear it. It does need an adapter for the Paasche hose tho since of course the Master fitting is different.

If a bit of noise isn't an issue, there's also this Paasche setup with everything all in one pack . Down side is no tank, but the compressor isn't very loud.

u/feedusurfetus · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I would say just pick up and of the "newer" high grades. They are easy builds and a nice introduction to the hobby and they typically run cheap so you could easily pick up three or four if you wanted for under $100. In addition high grades are good for mistakes if your starting because they are cheaper kits. I would pick one or two, if you like it and that seems to hold your interest get another or if that's too simple bump up to a real grade. As for models the RX 78-2 is always a good bet

u/CaptainBenza · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Dalong has reviews of basically every kit how they look out of the box with minimal touchups. Every gundam series tends to have its own style since different mecha designers might do different series. I'd say glance through some of those and see if any of them catch your eye. The most recommended starter kit these days is the HG Revive RX-78-2. It's a remake, hence the "Revive," of the original gundam. It's a simple but solid kit that's good to ease your way into the hobby. That being said, gunpla at its base level isn't too difficult so if you see a kit that strikes your fancy, just go for it. I'd highly recommend the latest kits of the Iron Blooded Orphans series which are very well made.

u/heeroyuwee · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Sandpaper is really cheap at the hardware store, just get some varying grits (i go up to 1500). If you want files, you can probably find some good hobby ones, I use the tamiya file set. If you are going to be disassembling your kits for painting or whatever reason, spudgers are very helpful. Definitely top coat, Krylon Matte and Clear top coats are good, there are more hobby specific coats that are very good, but more expensive. Panel lining supplies are also good, either pens or ink for a panel line wash. Alligator clips on sticks are also handy if you are going to be top coating

u/BeifongWingedBoar · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

I just watched 00 a few weeks ago and Virtue/Nadleeh is my favorite design from that series. Kit looks great, I've been tempted to get one myself but I have 3 MGs on the slow boat from Japan that will take me a bit to build. To take your kit to another level, look into panel lining. I bought this set and it's suuuuper easy and makes kits look incredible, especially on a kit that's mostly one color like this (the legs of Nadleeh especially).

On a side note, I don't remember Nadleeh having this shield/rifle combo in the anime, any idea if this was from the one mission where they sent it out as Nadleeh instead of Virtue?

u/Lightedpaints · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

it really depends on your budget. One of my favorite brushes is a badger 105 patriot found here

This brush will last you a long time with proper care. It's also reasonably priced and has a great spray pattern (pencil line to almost three inches). As for a compressor I personally use a California air tool - quite air model found here

I use this guy because of the large tank and because it has a rust free tank. Most model or little compressors have tanks that are made out of iron which will rust after some time. But depending on how much you wanna spend here are ones I would recommend because they come with a tank and an adjustable regulator/water trap (but as you can see they are not to far off from the California one)


I have the second one in that list, however after a year the tank rusted even with proper care :(

u/huxtiblejones · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Congrats! Keep us posted, it's always fun to see how peoples' journeys differ. I picked up a $9 set of files from Tamiya and it changed my skills almost instantly. They remove nubs much faster than any sandpaper, if you can get ahold of them I'd recommend also grabbing a higher grit sandpaper pad as well from a hobby store. Do a rough cleaning with the metal files then clean it up with increasingly higher grit sanding pads.

You can get seriously clean models if you use these tools right.

u/dylan227 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

The Tamiya tool set is good. You'll also need a hobby knife (the tool set might come with one.. I don't remember) and some sand paper to get rid of nub marks. I use 800 grit + sanding sticks. The markers are for cleaning up nub marks. I definitely wouldn't use them for painting entire pieces. The very thin gundam markers (GM01 etc.) are used for panel lining, and work very well. What I do is panel line a piece, wait a few seconds, and then wipe off the access marker so that you are left with a clean, thin panel line. As far as painting goes, I use an airbrush. This is the one I use. If you plan on airbrushing kits, you'll also need an air compressor. I use Tamiya's acrylic paint. You can also spray paint your models. When I used to spray paint, I used Tamiya's line of spray paints. Airbrushing gives the best results IMO.

u/Deoxysprime · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

I'm based out of the US so I don't know what brands are available to you. I've used two brands:

Krylon: I bought a big can like this from a local hardware store for about 3 USD. It does an okay job. It's a sort of flat finish but there's still a touch of shine to it. For bulk spraying it seems like a good deal but it's not the most beautiful finish. I assume most of the clear flat/matte sprays will be roughly this quality. One of these has lasted me through like 4 or 5 HG kits so far.

Testors: I bought some of this from a local hobby shop for about 5 USD per can. It's a lot less spray for a bit more money but the finish on this was great. One of these seems to do one or two HG kits.

u/YouFeelingItMrCrabs · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Can anyone recommend a budget air compressor?

This is the one im currently looking at. I know most would say its better to just wait for a good quality one that'll last 5+ years but a budget one would be better for me to ease into air brushing given the fact I still have to buy paint as well.


u/GoudaMustache · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Anyone care to provide some input on my first air brush setup? I haven't bought it yet but this is what I'm planning on purchasing:

Airbrush = Badger 105 Patriot
Compressor = Master Airbrush TC-40T
Spray Booth = Master Portable Spray Booth

Here's a few of the lingering questions I have:

  • What cleaning kit would you recommend? Does the cleaner fluid matter that much?
  • Is the TC-40T worth it over the TC-20T? Looking at it and reading the reviews on Amazon it seems like it's worth
  • Anything else I would need that I'm missing? I'm still researching the different types of paint and everything.
u/PharmBert · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

I got and have been using this

Master Airbrush Multi-purpose Gravity Feed Dual-action Airbrush Kit with 6 Foot Hose and a Powerful 1/5hp Single Piston Quiet Air Compressor

I feel like it’s a great starting place. So far it’s worked great for me.

u/weableandbob · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Looking to set up a spray area in my apartment in the near future, but first a couple of questions:

  1. The area I have to work with is about 10 x 10 feet, outside of which I have things that I don't want to get any sort of paint dust on. Is it safe to assume that any overspray won't be able to make it that far as long as I have a proper spray booth?

  2. Does anyone have any experience with this spray booth? I'm aware that building your own is cheaper, but I'm fine paying extra to save time as long as the pre-built option does its job well enough.
u/kobegotlove · 1 pointr/Gunpla

How do you think this set compares to the Tamiya one?

I noticed in the pics of that set that it included a Xuron cutter. Would I get a better cutter with this particular Xuron cutter than the generic one included in the set?

I also have this for a pen knife and this for a file set picked out so I would have 3 main tools (cutter, pen knife, and a file set) for $22.14 total all with 2-day Prime shipping available (so I won't have to stare at an unopened box of Freedom 2.0 for a month waiting for deliveries from Japan).

Would I be missing something crucial if I went with just 3 individual tools above and are there better options for the money (that I won't have to wait a month for)? Any input on all this would be greatly appreciated.

u/yoyobrains · 0 pointsr/Gunpla

This is definitely not going to be any better than hand-painting. A cheap airbrush and compressor set off Amazon is maybe 50 to 80 dollars, will give much better quality, and you will be able to use the paint that most people are using already to hand-paint parts.

I got a $80 one [here] ( as my first and painted a model that placed in the GBWC a few years ago.

A friend of mine got this for $50 and gets comperable results. He hasn't had any complaints about it going on a year and a half.

u/Geawiel · 4 pointsr/Gunpla

I prefer washes and usually use Vallejo washes. Usually Vallejo oil. If you want to use gloss coat by had, check out this. It can be used both by hand and in an airbrush. It will give you a gloss coat to use with a wash. It is acryllic so don't scrub too hard but it can work very well.

I usually put the wash down and let it sit for a couple seconds then wipe away with my finger. If you want to get really fancy, wipe in the direction you would think rain would move the oil stain down the suit. Example 1 and Example 2. This will give you a pretty good looking run mark for the rain pushing oil or rust down from the site. Take into account where it may gather, then go from there. You can use water and a q-tip if you don't want to use your finger. If you scrub too hard with that it will also strip away the gloss coat. It does take a bit to do that though.

u/kyithios · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

I don't think I'd recommend anything cheap for too long, but this one has been good to a few friends of mine, but this is the one I was talking about. It's cheap, it's effective, and it works.

u/hiddenburritos · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

The best kit for anyone to get familiar with the hobby is the HGUC Revive RX-78-2.

Where I live there's hobby shops where I can buy in person but online I trust USA Gundam Store, Big Bad Toy Store, Amazon, and Gundam Planet.

As for beginner resources it depends on what I want to look up. Zakuaurelius, Jesse Clary, Lincoln Wright, rrobbert184, Mecha Gaikotsu, and Like Gunpla on YouTube were the biggest contributors to my improvement in modeling.

u/bizology · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

Haha, I knew there'd be a folllow up! I bought a set similar to this and it works fine:

As for paints, I highly recommend learning with acrylics first. They are non-toxic, water-soluble and can be sprayed indoors with minimal ventilation. I'd stay away from lacquers until you have the confidence and gear to properly use them.

For paint I'd recommend two types, Mr. Hobby Acrysion and Vallejo Mecha acrylics. Both need to be thinned down before spraying, so you will need the solvents too.

Here are the paints (I'm in Canada):

u/The_Sign_Painter · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

I'm not OP, but if you want a good airbrush, get the Master Airbrush set. It's like 80 bucks for a compressor and air brush that work VERY well.

I used it to achieve this finish on my GM Ground Type with Tamiya paints.

u/bonersaladbar · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I'm working on my first air brushed kit. I'm not a patient person and as a result of that I got this It'll air brush, alright but the psi is about 18 when going full and when it's spraying it drops to about 10. It does okay and I feel like my purchase is justified, just barely. So yeah, live and learn.

u/JaguarDaSaul · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Something like this is okay to start with. If you want a better brush the Iwata Neo CN and the Badger Patriot 105 are highly recommended and are beginner friendly.

u/Lord_Fabio · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Please don't feel intimidated. I'm getting into gunpla again after like 10 years myself. The only intimidating thing is getting the equipment needed and knowing some tips on how not to screw some little things up. I personally use these clippers and I also use an xacto hobby knife with #17 blades. Just go slow and cut the pieces from the mold with the clippers leaving some leftover plastic that you can take off with the hobby knife. All those kits you mentioned sound good in terms of starting out. Any newer HG kit for that matter is probably a good start. You might want to look into getting some ultra fine tipped Gundam Markers for panel lining too. Have fun!

u/MohnJaddenPowers · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I just got a new compressor to replace my tiny little one. I haven't set it up yet but I'd sell the old tiny one to you for the cost of shipping if everything works out.

TBH, though, you'd be best served by buying this - it's the same starter set I currently have and am upgrading out of. Gives a really good intro to airbrushing. Only reason I'm upgrading the compressor is because I'm using more and more Alclad, and Alclad is VERY picky about steady psi.

u/Manpig · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

> Plus for $10 dollars I don't think I could recommend any better entry kit.

Have you checked out the RX-78-2 Revive? As of now, this is known as the best beginner kit to newcomers, and if you thought the GM was good, wait till you get to the newer kits. In all honesty, both the HGUC GM and Zaku are really dated kits that could use updates, they were okay for the time but Gunpla has improved from back then. For a modern Zaku, the HG Origin Char's Zaku shows what a modern HG Zaku can really do.

u/matticusbradicus · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Hey whats up. I just got into airbrushing last month. I bought this set here.
The compressor is awesome and the moister trap and regulator work great.
I quickly realised the brush that came with it sucked pretty bad so I quickly bought a Paasche Talon and it's a super solid brush for $75.

As far as airbrush booth goes. I built my own for just about $50 using plywood, a box fan, an air filter insert, duct tape, screws, and caulk. It only took about an hour. I can provide more details on that if you'd like.

u/chhappy7 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Selling - prices do not include shipping shipping will be via USPS flat rate, either small or medium (airbrush stuff probably large). Let me know if you want me to include box art and/or manual as well.

* RG Strike Freedom Wing of Skies Bandai - $20 I already tried it on for my RG SF

* RG Strike Freedom - $10 panel lined, decal'd. Parts of gold frame painted with gold

  • MG Unicorn OVA ver - $40 decal'd no panel line or top coat or paint; includes a Chinese knockoff Armed Armor DE

    * Master Airbrush® Brand Airbrush 3 in 1 Cleaning Pot-air Brush Holder-paint/car - $5+shipping; used once with the airbrush set link

    * Master Airbrush® Brand Portable Hobby Airbrush Spray Booth - $60+shipping; used once with the airbrush set; link

    * Master Airbrush Brand High Performance Multi-purpose Gravity Feed Dual-action Airbrush Kit with 6 Foot Hose and a Powerful 1/5hp Single Piston Quiet Air Compressor - $60+shipping; used once to put primer on a few parts for a car kit. link
u/spirals101 · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

I just finished up the HG RX-78-2 Revive and I think it's the perfect introductory build. Not too many parts and they fit together well. It was my second build and I had a lot of fun with it.

u/snapsofnature · 4 pointsr/Gunpla

I am brand new to ball of this so I apologize for my ignorance. Just stumbled upon these and would really like to try my hand at this. Which would be a good model to start with? I kind of want to start with the original one but am open to options. I have never built any models before ever.

Also are there anything I need besides side clippers?

And if there are no hobby stores near by that sell them what are some good places online. Amazon seems to have some. Anywhere else with a bigger selection?

Thank you all in advance.

Edit: was looking at this one

u/MachateElasticWonder · 9 pointsr/Gunpla

This kit specifically is the RG (real grade) version of the RX 78-2.

If you’re new, I recommend the HG (high grade) revive version.

This one is much easier to build AND cheaper AND the articulation is amazing. You really get the most bang for your buck on this one.

u/jedimika · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I agree that in terms of "cost per hour" gunpla isn't that bad at all. As for why I've dropped so much, I've got a friend who is deployed to Korea right now. He's only going to be out there 6 more months, so I asked him to send me a bunch of stuff- 11 kits totaling $270. So yeah, that hurt the wallet, but it means I'll be able to focus on buying supplies like paint and tools for a while!

I just got my panel markers actually. Ordered off Amazon and didn't notice that they were an item that was shipped from Japan. The set only cost $6 for gray, black and brown, but it took 6weeks.

Newtypehq has them at $3 each, but if you are in the states shipping is quick.

If you're ok waiting, here's the link for the seller I bought from.

u/VentureGunpla · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I was able to get my airbrush set up for around 90 dollars.

I bought a used old $40 testors AC2000 from ebay, and a Iwata Neo CS for 45 dollars using Hobby lobby's 40% off. If you keep your eyes peeled for deals you can get a fairly cheap set up as well. If you're buying new, I'd recommend this compressor as it's cheap, comes with a tank, and produces adequate pressure. This will leave you with around $100 to get your airbrush and other supplies. Since it comes with a 1/8th hose it can fit the iwata airbrush without an adapter, but you'll need a specific adapter for either of the badger brushes.

Compressed aircans are sort of a step back, but if that's what you need to do then go for it. Getting a good compressor first is nice though, as they will last you a long long time.

u/jdougie9115 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I bought that one, and for a beginner I think it works well enough and gets the job done. I've only had a few issues (really just one on multiple occasions) with it but nothing major, mostly just after a good cleaning. That being said I do eventually want to get an Iwata. But I recommend the amazon bundle first just for practice and getting the feel of it.

u/windupmonkeys · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

It's basically a glorified spray can with all the requisite disadvantages. If you want a cheap compressor, try the ones that are like used for nail art, cake decorating, or portable spray tanning.

A mor expensive version of this is the Iwata Neo compressor. Other models are made in china, cost 1/3rd the price, and are of varying levels of reliability. I bought and have used this for three years:

However, that airbrush requires constant cleaning, maintenance, and careful use to get the best out of it. I still wouldn't trade it for that glorified single action spray gun.

u/saikron · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I just bought this, and it's great for me. It has a .5mm tip which would probably be considered large - they're usually .3mm. That big honkin' tip means I can blow any paint through it with little or no thinning.

I also bought the Master starter kit for like $70 that comes with a working compressor and crappy airbrush. Honestly, if it could blow the glittery createx crap that I use it would have been perfectly OK for gunpla. My plan is to use this compressor until it burns up (reviews say it will).

u/dadboat · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I bought this. It's great for straight painting, but, so far haven't gotten good results with the brush with line work. Still practicing. The compressor is fine though, and, some of the guys here I know use it with their nicer brush for very good results.

u/animerb · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

the NEO CN is a great, cheap, gravity feed, dual action brush. A little more money than what you were looking to spend. But from what I've seen, it's just about the best value as far as budget airbrushes go. If you live near a hobby lobby you could probably use one of their aewsome coupons on it. And no matter what you go with, you'll need a compressor too.

u/Lock-kun · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I've seen the x-acto chisel blades recommended for nub removal. The standard diagonal ones have been a bit less effective than I'd like. Should I just bite the bullet and go with sandpaper/sticks though? And if so what should I get? There's the sanding stick set here that I've seen used, and the sandpaper set recommended on the link on this wiki's lowest grit is 1000, where I've seen starting with 400 and working your way up on nubs recommended, so should I look at a different set?

u/rema_N · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I think I'm ready to start airbrushing, so is this airbrush a good beginner one?

If this isn't good, what other semi-budget ones would you guys recommend? Thank you for any help.

u/rx-0custom · 0 pointsr/Gunpla

Ok so I would start with a cheap airbrush and compressor. Go with master to start it's what I tell all my friends who are starting up. You don't want to buy a expensive airbrush and compressor combo and Ruin it cuz your not use to Airbrushing. I ruined my first airbrush Cuz I didn't know what I was doing good thing it was cheap and I had used it for a few years before a nice Gravity feed :). I would start with this nice and cheap :) you should get a nice feel for it but please do some more Research on your own as well.

u/julioninjatron · 1 pointr/Gunpla

phew! glad I asked lol. I have found a few other models on ebay. what should I be looking for? another example:


Master Airbrush Multi-purpose Gravity Feed Dual-action Airbrush Kit with 6 Foot Hose and a Powerful 1/5hp Single Piston Quiet Air Compressor

is that 2nd one closer to what I need?

u/yellowjacket700 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Here ya go The airbrush is not the best but the compressors great I'm still using it. The only thing with it I recommend is to disconnect the hose for a little bit and let it run just to get the water out of it.

u/jyoon673 · 4 pointsr/Gunpla

Want to get into airbrushing but not sure which kit to get - was hoping someone could recommend one to me

So far I'm interested in these two

Also wanted to get this airbrush booth and was wondering how frequently I would have to change filters and how difficult it is to do so (ie. is it easy to find replacement filters and is it difficult to take apart and put back in)

u/inn0cent-bystander · 1 pointr/Gunpla

WIP as promised. I'm not finished yet. I still need to complete the panel lining and add on a coat of future.

It's not -too- expensive to get into, but it is a bit of up front investment, as you need something for ventillation(search amazon for spray booths or you can look up how to slap one together with a box fan(I may do this at some point to get more space and get more cfm through the filter). I went wit a slightly more expensive kit that came with 3 brushes(so I could horse around and see which I preferred): but you can save ~$10 and go with

u/grrcracker · 1 pointr/Gunpla

So still a work in progress. But I figured I would post up what I have so far. Had a catastrophic failure on the hands, broke the outer pieces that the fingers snap in to. Have some touch ups to do and stripping and repainting on the skirts in the works also. Still need to decal, top coat and panel line. But pretty happy with how things are turning out. This is the airbrush kit I am using, along with this hood and if you don't have one of these lamps, do yourself a favor and pick on up. They are awesome.

u/Cherrycat · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I own this kit. I've been futzing with it for months, but I'm still afraid to use it on an actual kit. lol The compressor is really quiet, and while it's not name branded, it really does the job well. the brush also works well.

u/IchBinEinFrankfurter · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Thanks a lot!

I used the master airbrush brush/compressor combo, about $80 on Amazon. It worked well enough for a noob like myself.

Difficult? I don't know about that, but it took a lot longer than I'm used to it taking with rattle cans. The results are much better though, even for a first attempt.

Edit: added Amazon link

u/bbeongchijima · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Currently having some airbrush troubles. My first session with my airbrush went perfectly well. The paint looked smooth and nice. During my second session (1 week later) the paint started to have these micro bump look. My airbrush wasn't sputtering either.

These are some of the problem solving I tried.

  • Thinned and de-thinned my paint.
  • Checked for clogging.
  • Took a part my airbrush and cleaned all the parts.

    I'm at all lost. Hopefully, you guys can help me out.

    Here are some other information.
  • This is the airbrush I'm using.
  • Using Tamiya Acrylic. Thinning with X-20A.
u/Recyclex · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I think something like this with the three basic colors is pretty good to start with, they'll probably last several kits until you want to start experimenting with paints.

u/stevexc · 1 pointr/Gunpla

So I'm pretty much completely new to Gunpla (I had built one that I got from Toys R Us YEARS ago but that's it - and I remember that being simple enough for a ~12 year old to handle) but since then I've built a number of models and a whole bunch of 40k.

I'm looking to grab a couple kits to get started and I just wanted the community's opinion on whether or not they were decent buys.

I figured I'd start off simple with this guy, and then go for something a little more challenging.

Are these decent kits? I'm just completely overwhelmed by the selection, to be honest.

u/Gotama6t6 · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

Master Compressor

I have this one and it has been good so far. I prefer tank as the motor is not continuously running. This is also beneficial as the motor doesn't heat up as quickly which is better for painting and increases the longevity.

u/vulcanfury12 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I have a question about buying stuff from Amazon.

I'm in the Philippines and I want to buy this kit:

Found it from the Wiki, and it's WAAAAAY cheaper than sourcing locally. There are two versions of the product from that page. The Standard and the Deluxe. From what I can see, it's the Deluxe where the compressor comes with a tank so I want that. Questions:

  1. On the right side of the page for the Standard version, it says This item ships to Philippines. Want it Thursday, Nov. 8? Order within 11 hrs 12 mins and choose AmazonGlobal Priority Shipping at checkout. This is not in the Deluxe version. Is there a way for me to get the Deluxe version delivered to my door?
  2. Adding the Standard kit to the cart says it is eligible for free shipping. How free is free? Do I still have to contend with duties and taxes?

    I'm no stranger to ordering stuff online, but what I have used before were all using local currency, and the only options I had to set on check out was the mode of payment (either cash on delivery or credit/debit card). Using Amazon is kinda daunting for me.
u/jkilla4rilla · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Obligatory airbrush recommendation question -

Anyone have experience with this kit (specifically the compressor)

This is the one with the “mini” compressor. What are the potential issues one would have with a small compressor like this? I plan to spray mainly Vallejo acrylics, if that matters. This would be my first try at airbrushing, so I’m sure I want to commit too much to money to something I may not actually be into. Thanks!

u/NettoSaito · 1 pointr/Gunpla

That's great to hear! I guess if I'm not happy with the result, I could always go back and fix it. Although Would it be better to go with another 00 then rather than a RG? Considering this would be my first time that is?

Also I was planning on buying the ones the guide linked to on Amazon:
Xuron 410 Micro-Shear Flush Cutter

u/homo-summus · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Is this stuff pretty good to use if I want a matte coat? Also, if there are parts I want shiny and parts I want matte, do I just have to break out the painter's tape?

u/paperclipps · 1 pointr/Gunpla

^ I started about a week ago and this is where I started.
His recommendations are solid and all of the tools are amazing so far.

Only thing I switched out was the snipperz because I had heard that these last longer(?) but I have never used any others so I wouldn't know.

4 Kits in and still going strong.

u/majintb · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Great panel lining work! I'm jealous! It's interesting to see that you opted not to use some of the stickers (like around the toes). Good use of dynamic posing as well.

Very few (if at all any) nubs, but the one on the top of the cannon sticks out to me. Have you considered using thin cement to "melt" the plastic and bond it all together? It works wonders without needing to get messy like you do with putty.

In case you need some, Tamiya makes them:

u/Estomuck · 1 pointr/Gunpla

hmmm. Ok, how about this one?

Badger Patriot 105

Its easily available on amazon, and the fine needle is available as well.

I'm thinking if I don't like it, I can pick up an Iwata Eclipse when I head to Japan in April (Hopefully). The Eclipse isn't available right now on Amazon without waiting a while for it to ship, same with extra needles.

u/Tobi816 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Stupid question. My airbrush was delivered today and everything looks perfect! There is one tiny little nick? that I think will do nothing to affect the air brush, though the 1/8th connector I have for the Badger 105 Patriot leaves some of the thread left. Anyways that is not my question.


Am I able to test this airbrush with water? I have airbrush cleaner coming, hopefully in a few days and not July 16-30th like the package says... I would like to test it to see if any air leaks out through anywhere and I would also like to test if paint leaks so I was hoping water would do that job.


Also I bought this compressor and I have no idea how to regulate? the PSI on it... Does anyone know how to do that? I am very new to airbrushing as one can see...

u/Saber_Avalon · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

In that case, have you tried using a file? Something like these:

I generally only use the one on top in the image. It's flat on one side and rounded on the other. Depending on the nub location I'll use either side, flat if there's a larger piece of nub then switch to the rounded side as I get closer to the part. I find the rounded part helps to avoid filing away the part itself as you get closer to it. The tapered end is good for tougher to get to places.

I've used the fully rounded one once and the big squared off flat one I almost never use. I find I end up scratching the part with it.