Top products from r/Hue

• LIFX are brighter, have bolder colors, and for a single light will cost less.
  
• People occasionally talk about having connectivity issues with LIFX, and I can't imagine having dozens of extra WiFi devices won't lead to some issues.
  
• Hue has a bigger ecosystem. It's been very popular for a long time. There are lots of third party integrations that can provide all sorts of stuff. I've never tried it but the Hue app has built in support for automations based on your location or time of day. LIFX might have these in the app, but without a hub I imagine they would need to be activated from your phone, which sometimes works well, but sometimes doesn't.
  
• Hue has a motion sensor and a couple of choices for wall switches that can be used just with the Hue hub. The very popular dimmer switch is only $25 USD, and currently on sale.
  
• I think to have a wall switch with LIFX you would need to have some sort of home automation hub in place like SmartThings/Wink/HomeKit/Indigo/etc. Or you might be able to get some sort of generic switch like the Logitech Pop (which requires its own hub) to trigger things through IFTTT.
  
• I think either Hue or LIFX color bulbs will provide good color shift. Both have pretty good quality light and light color. I expect some of the no-name bulbs you can find on Amazon would be pretty bad.
  
• I find the reviews from the Wirecutter to be useful to research this kind of thing.
  
  Edit: In terms of a switch to control it, either bulb can be turned off by the existing wall switch or lamp switch. Either can be turned on by the same switch, but at least with Hue's current firmware, it will revert to full brightness white, I don't know about LIFX. However if you do turn it off with one of those switches, there is no way to turn it back on with the app/voice assistant/etc. So when I talked about the switches above, I'm talking about smart switches.
  
  I don't think I was clear either that I think Hue might be the way to go. Of course you will get some bias towards Hue in /r/hue, but if you are concerned about reliability, automation, and control capabilities, I think Hue has more to offer.

That's pretty awesome and certainly very powerful/customizable. Nice job!

> I just couldn't justify dropping $60 for a circle with 3 buttons on it, and no dimmers.

I just wanted to clarify, the Hue Tap switch can, in fact, have one of the its buttons assigned to a dimmer mode, via Hue Labs. It cycles through three levels of (adjustable) brightness. There are a handful of Android and iOS apps too, that can make the same assignment.

Also, the Hue Dimmer switch is just $25. Or $35 bundled with a white bulb.

Lastly, many don't realize this but the old Philips "LivingColors" remotes work perfectly fine (now) with Hue bulbs and hub.

Image of a compatible model here:

I've just set up my second one, and have them both working in different rooms of my house. And for less than $15 on Amazon or eBay, they're the cheapest (and actually most versatile) physical, light switches for a Hue system. You can even select the desired color right from the remote. I love them! (Discussion here.)

Thanks for sharing your ideas and work here, and enjoy!

Thanks everyone for the responses..... This was my solution:
Step 1:

http://www.amazon.ca/Light-Switch-Guard-Switches-Shields/dp/B00DUBOSTA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454016617&sr=8-1&keywords=switch+guards

Looks like these guards are perfect; they'll be here next week and will frustrate my lovely bride to no end for at least a week BUT

Step 2:

Hue Dimmer. What a great product; easy to use, easy to set up and no playing around with electronics needed. I've set up one at the base of the stairs to just turn all lights on at full "soft white" brightness and one at the top of our stairs to do the same so she can turn everything off without walking down when the kids inevitably leave them all on.

Step 3:

iPhone 6 widgets with 10 scenes.


This appears to be what is going to work. Thanks everyone for the help.

I used these. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCS0WE8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They come with a small clip/bracket that you screw into the wall, then the rail snaps into it. Is a great look, they are easy to cut into whatever size you might need with a typical handsaw. And they diffuse the light really well so that you don't see points as much. Totally worth it, and way better than the factory tape.


I think the factory tape is only good to get a general sense of your look, what you think it should look like, and allow you to reposition. Then use these rails, and you will be very happy.

Hey everyone, I didn't have the forethought to take photos as I went along, but here's how I did it. Fair warning; this project requires an intermediate amount of soldering experience. If you have surface mount soldering experience, you'll be golden. If you don't, make sure you can handle sacrificing a few light strip segments for this project :)

1. De-solder the sections of an existing Hue Light Strip. The first half of this video shows how to separate the sections. In the video, he uses a soldering iron. I used a hot air gun to desolder mine; I found the hot air gun approach easier.
   
2. Keep careful track of the start and end sections of each strip; you cannot reverse them! Each segment has "PHILIPS" printed on it in blue letters. To help me keep track, I always kept the PHILIPS logo facing upright. At the end of the original light strip, Philips added a female 6-pin connector, so I used female connectors for the end of my segments and male connectors at the beginning. Philips used surface mount contacts with 2mm spacing, which is a lesser-used spacing standard. I bought these for the male end of each segment, and these for the female end.
   
3. Break the headers into 6-pin sections. The male ones are easy to break apart with a vice and a pair of pliers. The female headers were a bit more difficult; I held them in a vice and hacksawed them into sections. Then I used a dremel to clean up the messy cut. Someone mentioned using this cut-end to 6-pin product to save on soldering, but I chose to solder each end of the strip. Since the connections will be under some tension when they're bent at 90 degrees, I wanted to make sure they were 100% solid.
   
4. Solder the 6-pin connectors to each end of your cut strips. If the female headers were too difficult to break apart or solder, you can technically use male ends on both sides of the strip. Litecessory's cables can be converted to either female-female or male-female.
   
5. Spread hot glue over the solder joints to prevent them from making incidental contact with other conductors and to give the connectors more strength.
   
6. Use pre-made 2mm 6-pin cables (2 inch, 3 feet) to make your strip as long or as short as you need! When connecting segments, make sure to connect them in the same polarity, such that pins 1-6 on one segment are connected to pins 1-6 on the next segment. If you flip the cable, connecting 1-6 -> 6-1, at best your segment won't light up; at worst it'll fry it for good.

Thank you for the detailed response. For me, I will likely be using just basic white LEDS, not RGB, so color space isn't a factor in this particular project (just wanting better lighting in my garage).

I was planning on using these modular LED enclosures attached to the ceiling, and then I wanted to control their on/off capabilities with something compatible with the Hue app. For that I think the Gledopto Dimmer Switch might be able to work, I'd need to adapt it somehow from the three prong power outlet that's included in the enclosures.

Ideally I was hoping to find something like this smart outlet, but from the recent reviews it seems that it's not compatible with Hue. I have yet to find one that explicitly states that it is verified Hue compatible. This would be nice because then I wouldn't have to worry about rewiring like I will with the Gledopto dimmer.

It don't know much about the flickering, I will have to research that some more.

Again, thank you for the response, if I ever want to do more Hue projects with proper RGB lights, I will keep your advice about color protocols in mind.

Yes. You can use the dresden elektronik FLS-PP Ip: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=as_sl_pc_tf_lc?tag=huelig0f-20&camp=213381&creative=390973&linkCode=as4&creativeASIN=B00NMSQ4QQ&adid=068KHP2BJGQ0PK23866W&&ref-refURL=http%3A%2F%2Fhuelights.com%2F

I tested this last night with my Hue Lights app, http://huelights.com, and bridge firmware 01030262 on the v2.0 HomeKit square bridge. This LED controller supports RGB or RGBW, so even strips with a white channel can be used. It can handle up to 6A with a suitable power supply. By comparison, the Lightstrip Plus has a 1A power supply and 1A LED controller.

The controller does a good job mapping color temperature modes to pure RGB strips. For example, Concentrate, Reading, etc., look pretty close to bulbs with color temperature support. You can also get a bundled package that includes a 3 meter strip and 2A power supply. With the bundled strip the controller could select colors, dim, and turn on/off with good response time.

Thanks for the insight! I'll definitely hold off for a while. I definitely hadn't thought of the corner bend where you can't bend it horizontally. I'm not fussed about cutting them and using these on the corners buf definitely glad you mentioned that.

Cut-End to 6-Pin Extension Connector for Philips Hue Lightstrip Plus (2 inch/50 mm, 4 Pack, White) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B074XLHHB6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sAUYCbVEZHPW5



I didn't realise the brightness was affected so dramatically if extended so yeah might leave the lightswitch electrics as-is and get two controllers instead and forget the Cat5 link.

• Would pointing the LED of a spartphone straight down on the kitchen work surface suffice as a test. It's not reflective at all so I think I'll be OK with our cheap plywood worksurface and I can always get a diffuser strip if it bugs me.
  
  
  Did you have to create new plug sockets for the lights in your setup?
  
  The two existing lighting outlets are mounted under the cupboards. That's the bit I know least about - how easy it is to attach a plug socket upside down to a wooden cabinet which has no recess that I'm aware of. I'll have to investigate whether they are on the circuit + switch as I suspect.

The hue dimmer switch works GREAT. I just installed one in my kitchen and bedroom this weekend. They are only $24/ea, and require no wiring. They look great on the wall, and function perfectly.

As for stopping people from turning off the lights... Something like this? =)

https://www.amazon.com/Westek-Amertac-CSG1-Switch-Guard/dp/B000NCV1SK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482873839&sr=8-1&keywords=light+switch+guard

I don't have any Hue lights yet, but am starting to look.

How good are these "bundle offers" on the official Hue site? $45 for 3 white ambiance lights and $64 for 6 plain white dimmable bulbs.

Since we're so close to Black Friday and Cyber Monday, I'm considering going ahead and getting the starter kit that's on sale and then just holding off to see what I can get in about a month for cheaper.

The main reason I'm starting to look at smart bulbs (vs switches) is I suffer from migraines often, and I prefer warmer color whites and my wife prefers the cooler whites because it looks more natural. With the white ambiance bulbs I think we can both be happy.

Oh man, that's definitely not the best way to go but I do know how to do it. In fact, I can't even guarantee it will because I've technically never tried it this way (although once I did something similar to make Chromecast work in a hotel.) First, you have to realize that just plugging into that adapter isn't going to work because it's configured to be looking for an IP address instead of assigning one. So, the first thing you need to go is Google "Internet connection sharing for Windows 10." Look at the instructions for turning your computer into a hotspot because that's what you're doing. The computer is essentially turning itself into a router. Wifi adapter gets an IP address and acts as a gateway. It's really not that complicated but you do have to configure it properly. You could also take an old router and flash it with DD-WRT and turn it into a wireless bridge. Otherwise, the computer has to be on 24/7 with a connection. I'll be around if you have questions.

*if you aren't networking savvy, you could save a lot of time buying a cheap wireless network bridge instead of making one. It looks like they range for 20 to 100 bucks on Amazon. The bridge connects to Wifi and "bridges" that connection to an Ethernet port. Here's an example -https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-Smart-Dual-Band-Extender-EW-7438AC/dp/B015AMYCMO/ref=sr_1_17?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1494275684&sr=1-17&keywords=Wireless+bridge

Or one of these - https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494277810&sr=8-1&keywords=ethernet+to+wifi+adapter

The Lutron Connected Bulb Remote is a zigbee remote which can be wall mounted:
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LZL-4B-WH-L01-Connected-Bulb-Remote/dp/B014STZASK

These work great for turning Hue lights On/Off and dimming but be aware these bypass the Hue Hub, so you can't utilize rules\timers\scenes with these. If all you want is a basic dimmer functionality which fit in to gang plates, these are your best option.

They do. There are two versions, a ZigBee and Clear Connect. The ZigBee one works with Hue. I would love it if the ZigBee version would show up in the Hue app or HomeKit.

> I want Hue to support an affordable small remote like the Lutron pico.

Perfect. Thanks for the idea. For some reason an adapter didn't even cross my mind.

Also, found these on Amazon for super cheap in case anyone else has this problem.

JACKY LED® 5-Pack E12 to E26 / E27 Adapter - Converts Chandelier Socket (E12) to Medium Socket (E26/E27) (5-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L595FA0/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_4SRUub0QP36BC

What you need is a Luton smart bulb remote, they have some making them but you might get lucky and find them. These pair with the Philips Hue bulbs and work great

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LZL-4B-WH-L01-Connected-Bulb-Remote/dp/B014STZASK

You can use a wireless bridge, I've used them multiple times with standalone wired only devices to great success.

https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6

Hope this helps!

Your best solution is to put your Hue bridge on the WiFi network, and solve both problems, and just remove your own reliance on out of home control making your whole setup a bit more reliable.

What I would suggest, is a small access point such as this TP-Link one, which can be configured as a bridge.

What you do then, is connect the Hue bridge to this thing, and it allows your hue bridge to reside on the wireless network, instead of the wired one.

Your lights don't care… and as your phone is also on wifi, they'll finally both be on the same network.

That way you can add your friend just by pushing the button on the hue bridge.

Configuring this device as a bridge will NOT add a new wifi network, it will connect to the existing wifi network as a client, and just provide a wired connection from the wifi, to your Hue bridge. I hope that makes sense.

I just installed these yesterday, works great!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L595FA0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I had to delid the bulb to get them to fit as the length was too long, but they still look great just not as diffused.

If the measurements work for you, there are 3rd party extension cables that would let you span the space occupied by the extractor without having cut/splice/solder any strips

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Extension-Cable-Compatible-Philips-LightStrip/dp/B01M7XDZ5V/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488037366&sr=8-1&keywords=Extension+Cable+for+Philips+Hue+LightStrip+Plus+%283ft%2F1m+-+2+Pack%2C+White%29

Best of luck!

Similar but slightly different, I went with these. Two of those fit a single light strip just about perfectly.

Something like this might do the trick:

https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468418411&sr=8-2&keywords=wi-fi+to+ethernet+adapter

It allows you to connect a device that only has an ethernet port to WiFi. Then you can join your Hue bridge to the campus wifi and your other devices on the campus wifi should be able to access it.

Of course, nothing is guaranteed, but Amazon has a fairly generous return policy so you shouldn't be screwed if it doesn't work.

Great deal! Thank you! Don't forget this deal is still going as well, for $25 extra, you get one more bulb:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R1NMLL4/

Thanks for the reply.

​

So to understand, I would be best off getting this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R1NMLL4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1


And then supplementing it with this and any other Hue products I decide to add?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M9AU8MB/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

​

Looks as though the hub connects to my router so I'm assuming I can identify lights individually in order to have them spread around the house and do different things?

It largely depends on how much length you need. If you only need a few feet, the regular light strips from Phillips are your best bet. If you're doing long runs, it can be a lot cheaper to go 3rd party.

I ran about 30 feet for my apartment using 3rd party, and spent a little over $100. I compared it to the light strips and it would have been around $450 using just light strips. So far the integration has been super easy.

Here's what I bought:

1x FLS-PP for $55 (this is what you use to control the lights via the Hue app)

1x 12v power supply for $12

1x set of pigtails (only needed one of them, so a local AV or tech store might sell individual ones) for $5

2x 16ft SUPERNIGHT RWBWW LED Strips for $17/ea

They aren't as bright and as uniform as the Hue Lightstrips, but you get what you pay for. The Hue Lighstrips are $90 for 6.5feet, and I would have needed 5 boxes total, so $450 just for the strips.

To be honest at this point it sounds like you’d be better off buying something other than Hue.

You could buy generic 5050 RGBW strips which you could cut and link as you wished from eBay for a fraction of the price of Hue strips.

Add a power supply and a zigbee controller (I have this one: Wireless electronic ballast FLS-PP lp with Power PWM interface for RGBW and RGB lights (12/24V LED/LED stripes), ZigBee certified product https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_S4v4Ab9FKRZGS) and you’re sorted.

Edit: The new Ikea led driver could be an option as well, don’t know much about it though.

It really depends how much effort you want to put in and if you are up for a bit of programming on a raspberry pi...

Short answer is only official hue bulbs are compatible with HomeKit.

However you can run a piece of software called homebridge on a raspberry pi that allows you to link unofficial but hue compatible bulbs to HomeKit. I have such a set up and it works perfectly!

Then you have more options with lights! I have one of these Wireless electronic ballast FLS-PP lp with Power PWM interface for RGBW and RGB lights https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cKwrzbZRGY7BG

Which can drive a lot of led strips...

Get a 2 gang switch plate (or 1 wider than you currently have) and a switch cover/guard. You can install a 2 gang plate on a 1 gang box with the 2nd gang covering the wall a bit. Attach the dimmer to the unused side of the plate. The Hue dimmer comes with tape on the back and will cover the unused screw holes.

This is much easier, MUCH safer if you don't know what you are doing, and will still allow you to turn the power off if you need to.

I've seen people suggest a metal plate with a blank 2nd gang to take advantage of the magnets on the back if the dimmer.

For the switch cover, I'm using a magnetic cover:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002X88GYY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1479335243&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=switch+cover&dpPl=1&dpID=31rKEqw%2BSZL&ref=plSrch

The hue dimmer's base takes up more than 1/2 of the switch plate, so I had to mount it with about a millimeter hanging off the side. Barely noticeable, but next time I'll use something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NCV1SK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479335243&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=switch+cover&dpPl=1&dpID=31HrCmi9fBL&ref=plSrch

Yeah, that might be a better solution.

If the TV and display are close enough, you might get away with 3rd party cable extensions (Litcessory is the only well-known compatible brand) and two 1m extension strips. But they are expensive and will look ghastly if you can't hide them. And you won't be able to control them separately.

The only other method I can think of is using velcro to fix them to the displays and constantly transferring them, which sound crazy.

It sounds like you're more disappointed by the aesthetics of the device rather than the function? What would your ideal design be? Would it be modeled off of anything existing today? What kind of functions are you looking for? And what would make use more satisfying?

edi: How do the aesthetics of the Lutron remote compare? https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LZL-4B-WH-L01-Connected-Bulb-Remote/dp/B014STZASK

These channels fit 2nd gen lightstrip almost perfectly!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCS0WE8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm going to say +1 for switch covers. I got some from Amazon for about $2. They're pretty nice and have 1 open side so if you need to get to the switch you can, without taking the cover off.


Amertac-Westek CSG1 Switch Guard, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCV1SK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_u8AQwbYJ9G6CP

Just as another alternative (don't know your usage case specifically) but you could hard wire the switch and install a lutron connected bulb remote in the gang box instead. Then you've got a guest friendly alternative that doesn't kill power to the bulb.

Connected Bulb Remote

Wall Plate Bracket

Maybe it's not what you're looking for though.

I haven't done it with a rocker switch, only toggles, but it would work from a technical aspect. The challenge will be getting something strong enough to keep the Aurora stuck to the wall when folks turn it to dim the lights.

Suggest you cover the rocker with something like this:
cover

Can't you get the removable dimmer switch and just use it as a remote? I do that and it's pretty useful.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076MGKTGS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Interesting, thanks. The Klus looks expensive and maybe needs a more extensive mounting?

So these look about right?

https://www.amazon.com/DOME-SHAPED-Profile-Aluminum-Dome-Shaped-Applications/dp/B017WTJ02K/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1494108415&sr=1-1-catcorr

https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Channels-Diffuser-Lightstrip-Mounting-LL-007-M/dp/B01NCS0WE8/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1494108486&sr=8-1-fkmr2

This Zigbee switch should be compatible with the Hue bridge, but I can’t personally vouch for that as I don’t own any of these.

Here’s a helpful Amazon review for it, “After experimenting with adding this plug to my Philips Hue system, I finally figured out how to add it without any trouble. I held down the power button while inserting the plug into a wall socket. I kept the button held down for about 6 seconds and then heard a ‘click’ sound. I was then able to find the light with the iConnectHue app’s ‘Search’ feature. It could probably also be found this way with the Philips app, but I didn’t try that.”

I use these. They're whiter than the picture and flat, but magnetic so won't hold a hue switch. But they do allow easy removal.
Mitzvah Family Magnetic Switch & Outlet Cover for Flat Modern Switches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002WQ2UBM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8Y2Azb31CFHP1

I don't believe so, but I was considering getting something like this for my ceiling fan fixtures: https://www.amazon.com/JACKYLED-Adapter-Chandelier-Converter-Resistant/dp/B00L595FA0/ref=pd_lpo_60_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KH199AQYDBPSDK8AJN4S

Here's the deal- $50 for the lightstrip and $50 for 4x white bulbs

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014H2OXYU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073SSK6P8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'll poke around for some apps (feel free to recommend some)
Will also ask Phillips if it will be possible in a future firmware update.

is this part of the Hue ecosystem / friend of hue / bridge?

Would it pair with the hue dimming switch or the lutron remote?
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LZL-4B-WH-L01-Connected-Bulb-Remote/dp/B014STZASK

ty.

Well the generation 1 light strip is cheaper http://amzn.to/2hRNdS3 and for what you want to do may be a better option.

I went the opposite where I cut off the power supply and the light strip and soldered on a larger power supply 5amp and added a 5050 light strip at 4m long seemed to work OK.

I I wanted was the ZigBee controllers.
Here is a fls after market controller http://amzn.to/2j5bQXw that will also work with the Philip hues

You need the LED controller that it already has - alternatively you could get an LED controller separately and get some cheaper LED strips (still need a power transformer such as the one you listed).

If there's already a socket for the light, you might be able to plug directly into that with an adapter (not sure those exist in the UK, but you could check your DIY store). That would be the easiest since the Hue strip has a wall-wart style plug with a backward connector.

Otherwise, you need a 24v transformer which you can cut the wire coming from the hue strip box and hook that up along with the wires from the switch (be sure to turn off the breaker first!).

Would probably be better to just get a light switch cover like this, and put the Hue Dimmer on top of that, or get a 2-gang cover and put the Hue Dimmer next to it.

Also, I'm pretty sure the Hue products do not require an internet connection, but at least a LAN connection for the Bridge to speak with your phone. The Hue Dimmer and Hue Tap communicate directly to the Bridge, which then communicates to the bulbs, so no internet connection needed there either.

Super cool!
I use these (but obviously they're not as fun lol):
Mitzvah Family Magnetic Switch & Outlet Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002WQ2UBM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8JIfAbYBWKB1W

I didn't want my strips just glued on so I used these strips:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCS0WE8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

While it is a bunch of extra work cutting and attaching these, once done the install is not ever going to fall apart.

Added bonus: the diffuser actually makes the light better in my opinion as it decreases the visibility of each light's reflection on the counter.

You can build your own very cheaply, total cost is basically $55 for a third party controller, plus ~4$/m for chinese LED strip.

http://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ

I have two dresden controllers (Running ~200W of lighting) and two lighstrip+ connected to my system and everything works fine.

The only problem is that you will never color match a third party product. The bulbs and strips will always display exactly the same color (Assuming you are within the gamut of the products) but third party can be way off.

Sorry, I meant the following products (examples):
https://www.elementalled.com/products/diode-led/aluminum-led-strip-light-channels.html
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCS0WE8
Basically you enclose the bare ledstrip in an aluminum profile with a (semi) transparant cover of choice so the strip itself is protected and glued one time only. You only have to mount the profile itself so therefore it's easier to move the profile than to undo the glueing.

I just ordered the Dresden Electronics FSL-PP LP of amazon.co.uk along with the suggested power adaptor as well as suggested RGBW led strips.


Wireless electronic ballast FLS-PP lp: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1453453271&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=fls-pp+lp&dpPl=1&dpID=41d%2Bw6ouySL&ref=plSrch

JnDee™ 12V 6A 6 amp 72W DC POWER Supply ADAPTER Transformer: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0086DE6FI/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1453453271&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=fls-pp+lp&dpPl=1&dpID=51oKWAafXcL&ref=plSrch

Mixed-Gadgets RGBW LED Light Strip 16.4ft 5M Flexible Non-waterproof RGB+White 300leds: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00PXOEOQ4/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1453453271&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=fls-pp+lp&dpPl=1&dpID=51dKMQKvKZL&ref=plSrch

I ordered a total of 10 meters of led strip, and I am anxious to see if I can drive the entire 10 meters of that one power supply. Also if it will drop in intensity at the end as well as the quality of the white light.

I can update you with my experiences when it arrives if anybody are interested?

I've got the flat rocker switches in my apartment and I found these magnetic covers on Amazon that look discreet and can be easily removed any time. They also have ones for flip switches like yours.

Magnetic Switch & Outlet Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002WQ2UBM/

It’s also possible to do with a zigbee plug such as

Sylvania Smart Home 72922 Sylvania LIGHTIFY Smart Plug, 1 Pack, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M6UM8QD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mFh9BbDQ3RJ4N

It shows up as a light on the Philips hue bridge.

As said, don't dim them. Store the knob and leave it at full brightness. Cover it with a sabbath cover for safety.

The dimmer switch is the best thing ever for the Hue: https://amzn.com/B014H2OYVW

I am interested in 3D printing something like this. I'm thinking somewhere between this:http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1543169 and this:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WQ2UBM/ref=s9_simh_gw_g60_i4_r?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=VTT91RHXYDNZ72W1SPV4&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=6aad23bd-3035-4a40-b691-0eefb1a18396&pf_rd_i=desktop

(ie magnetically attached to the decora faceplate screws, with enough depth to accomodate the rocker switch, which will allow me to mount the OEM Hue dimmer mount)

I just installed the FLS-PP https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/ Works great and I haven't had the disconnection issue that some people seem to have in the reviews. I have about 20' of RGBW on the underside of my platform bed, I could probably double that if I needed to. https://imgur.com/gallery/qI4sL

Colored A19 $10 off on Amazon:

Philips 464487 Hue White and Color Ambiance A19 60W Equivalent Dimmable LED Smart Bulb Compatible with Amazon Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M9AU8MB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4ZM9BbHZGGR9K

Sure! You'll need a wireless bridge. Something like this .

I cover them with these. It has the advantage of stopping people from hitting your lightswitch inadvertently but you have easy access from the side if you need to toggle power for any reason.

I recommend something like this

There are purpose-built switch covers for both trditional and Decora style switches, that attach using the existing (or extended) screws on the wall plate. I've used covers like these in several rooms quite successfully.

I tried several different brands. If your countertop is glossy you will see the lights with or without a diffuser. These fit perfectly:

Litever 6-Pack 3.3ft/1 Meter 9x18mm U Shape Aluminum Channels With Diffuser, End Caps and Mounting Clips LED Strip Channels for Max 16mm Wide LED Lightstrip Light Mounting--LL-007-M https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCS0WE8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6IlKAbJYC67EG

This travel router worked beautifully on my school's network.

A19 is the right type of bulb for a standard light. There are other types like the BR30 or GU10 which have specialty purposes or sockets, but A19 is likely what you want.

Then there are white bulbs and color bulbs.

Links to both on Amazon for comparison:

White


Color

Not that I'm aware of. Your best bet would be to get a light switch plate that has an additional switch slot or something like this and a lightswitch cover. Put the double plate over the single switch, stick the switch cover over the switch in the ON position, and use the hue dimmer's sticky mount on the blank switch area.

It's a couple extra bucks, but won't leave any marks when all taken down.

Crude Mockup

Should work fine. For 15 bux its worth a shot. I'm gonna buy one to check it out. I used this one for my kitchen and it works great but I needed the white channel in the kitchen.

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1523074024&sr=8-2&keywords=zigbee+led+controller

You want the Wireless electronic ballast FLS-PP lp.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/

And these LED strips look good, though I haven't tried them, and they are a bit more expensive.
https://www.amazon.com/BTF-LIGHTING-Individually-Addressable-Flexible-Waterproof/dp/B01N2PC9KK

Though really any RGB or RGBW led strip should work with that ballast.

They were live yesterday when I posted that on Amazon. It looks like everything is back to normal price, except for the A10 color bulbs. Those are still at $40 each.

https://smile.amazon.com/Philips-Generation-Equivalent-Compatible-Assistant/dp/B01M9AU8MB/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1511380444&sr=8-6&keywords=philips+hue

As mentioned by Doombot5 I’d opt by taking the switch out. I’ve bought 2 Phillips Hue dimmer switches and just don’t use them any more. Mostly because I bought Lutrons wireless pico remotes. I pulled the old rocker switch out, connected the wires together (Always on) and paired the remote to the bulbs I wanted the remote to control. It has dimmer capabilities but not scene selective. Lutron sells mounting brackets and face plates for the wireless remotes so if you choose they can cover the removed switch and replace it. It looks quite good and you’d never know that the switch is wireless. For me it was the best option that eliminates the switch cutting power and allowing people who prefer switches to still have the option.

I don’t regret at all switching to this method, I only regret not doing it sooner!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014STZASK/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1505659804&sr=8-10&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=pico+remote

I'm using these

They cover the switch with an opening on the side in case you do need to use the switch. The flip ones you listed would be sweet, too.

> https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ

They sell it in the USA too :)
http://amzn.to/28QJWuk

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCS0WE8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_Y15XDb0DV7TXP

Eat to cut, looks great, would buy again.

The Hue light strip itself seems like a gigantic waste of money to me. You can get an FLS-PP controller and 16.4' of light strip that's better than Hue (more LEDs per foot) for about the same price as one Hue light strip which only comes with 6' of light. I got a couple FLS-PP controllers on sale for $55.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TQEX8BO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Put it in client mode, connect it to your wifi network, plug your hub into it, and you will be good to go.

Most likely these.

Litecessory makes some good stuff.

One more thing--can I add a wall mounted wireless dimmer switch to control the light strip after wiring it to the FLS-PP?


Like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Philips-473371-Dimmer-Installation-Free-Exclusive/dp/B076MGKTGS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518044853&sr=8-3&keywords=hue+wireless+dimmer+switch

Can anyone tell me if this is a good deal for someone just starting out?

​

I can't decide if I want to get dot and 2 bulbs or the 3 with the Hue Bridge.

To make it easier for other people to find/google your request, here is the correct name for the switch:

Philips Hue Dimmer Switch
929001173601 / Philips Hue Wireless Dimming Kit 929001136905

Image

So far I've only taken apart the Philips Hue Motion Sensor just to see how it works. I haven't posted any as they probably already exist.

I will disassemble the Dimmer Switch and post some photos of it if I happen to get one next week.

I just mounted the hue dimmer switch next to the switch, and placed one of these over the switch itself:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002X88GYY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The end result doesn't look nearly as clean however.

For the outlet, try the Sylvania Smart Home plug: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M6UM8QD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mFh9BbDQ3RJ4N

Or white...


Philips Hue White Ambiance Decorative Candle 40W Dimmable LED Smart Bulb (Hue Hub Required), Works with Alexa, HomeKit and Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07177XMF9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JdZBDbP443CKH

Philips Website VS Amazon for Philips Hue bulbs.

On the Philips Website I find:
http://www2.meethue.com/en-us/p/hue-white-and-color-ambiance-single-bulb-e26/046677464486

And on Amazon I find:
https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Generation-Equivalent-Compatible-Assistant/dp/B01M9AU8MB/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1511201049&sr=1-5&keywords=philips+hue+e26

The model numbers vary by 1. 464486 vs 464487
The descriptions are similar, but not the same.
On the philips website it says nothing about 3rd generation.
Philips calls it an E26 bulb and Amazon calls it an A19 bulb.
Philips talks about integration with Nest, Amazon talks about integration with Echo.

Are they actually the same thing? I'm a little confused at the difference.

In case anyone else finds this helpful, the two light switch guards I am considering are this one and also this one.

If anyone is interested in a custom 3D printed holder for the Hue Dimmer that can go over a regular switch (acts like a guard but holds the dimmer as well), let me know and as soon as he has worked out the design I will have him upload the program files (or he can print and ship one to you).

Dual Option Wall Switch Guard (3 Pack) Clear Rocker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DUBOSTA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_MtqPl51JqD4sa

I assume this is for the Hue bridge since you're posting in the Hue subreddit. Something like this should work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UAKCS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kqpbBbTMC0JYK

Or, as others have suggested, get a network extender/wireless bridge with ethernet ports.

This. The backplates you need to do this are the Pico Wall Plate Brackets. I have em all over since they can fit right in to your home naturally and it makes the Hue system intuitive for guests.

For anyone else reading this, you can just get a cheap router like this and use it to convert WiFi to Ethernet.

Also came across this device and wonder if it would work for things like undercabinet lights and multi-bulb fixtures:

https://www.amazon.com/Philips-458158-Hue-Dimmer-Switch/dp/B014H2OYVW/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1484063698&sr=8-8&keywords=alexa+light+switch

Probably have to just search on Amazon, but I found one at least that reviews say fits it: http://amazon.com/Litever-Aluminum-Channels-Lightstrip-Mounting-LL-007-M/dp/B01NCS0WE8/

This company also seems to have a bunch that might be higher quality than the generic chinese ones on Amazon: https://www.solidapollo.com/led-strip-profiles/

The dimmer switches are completely remote; have a magnet to attach them to a wall.

Philips 458158 Hue Dimmer Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014H2OYVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pAmozb3XXPSBR

(Sorry; on mobile)

Tapping the on button cycles through five scenes that you can customize, and the dimmer switches are obviously hardware buttons. Highly recommended!

Amazon has a deal for a 3 color bulb starter pack with a hub for $99, it's a solid deal and picked one up myself.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Ambiance-Starter-HomeKit-Assistant/dp/B07R1NMLL4

Sounds slow.

So I just got these Lutron Connected Bulb Remotes to replace my Hue Dimmer switches as they actually fit in a decora Wall plate and don't look hideous. What I didn't realize is how long the delay there was between triggering the dimmer switch, it talking to the hue bridge, which then talks to the bulbs. Since these remotes talk directly to the bulbs themselves - it is lightning fast. It's wild!

Seriously recommend them for anyone who has Hue lights around.

Many wireless repeaters/range extenders have an Ethernet port you can use for this purpose; just configure it into client mode, join the repeater to the normal WiFi network, and plug the Hue hub into the repeater's Ethernet port.

Just one random example:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Portable-Travel-Router/dp/B00TQEX8BO/

I have one of these covering a lightswitch http://www.amazon.com/Mitzvah-Family-Magnetic-Switch-Switches/dp/B002WQ2UBM/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1453928941&sr=8-6&keywords=switch+cover

and then a hue dimmer switch mounted right next to it. That setup works well.

Amazon sells connectors from Litcessory that are designed to let you reuse Lightstrip cut-off parts:

https://www.amazon.com/Cut-End-Extension-Connectors-Philips-Lightstrip/dp/B074XLHHB6/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=litcessory&qid=1554685277&s=gateway&sr=8-1

They let you connect the cut-off parts back to the main strip, or to another cut-off. Make sure to watch their instruction video on this page though, as you don't cut where the Lightstrip has the cut marks.

https://litcessory.com/product/cut-end-to-6-pin-extension/

Disclaimer: Haven't actually tried it yet, but I have bought a set of these for a future Lightstrip installation.

I used these https://www.amazon.com/Light-Switch-Guard-Switches-Shields/dp/B00DUBOSTA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482935004&sr=8-1&keywords=rocker+switch+cover

Then I just used some 3M double sided tape and it looks fine. This way I can still have access to the light switch if I need to.

I've been using multiple FLS-PP along with LED strips and it works fine with the current HUE firmware, you can get one of the modules and see if it works with your LED strip, just a quick look, and it has the same plug that the 5050s LEDs I have, but the 5050s LEDS are RGB.

• FLS-PP LED Light Controller
  
• RGB LED Strip
  
• Power Adapter
  
  or
  
  
• FLS-PP, Power Adapter, and LED Strip

Those are chandelier/candelabra (E12) style sockets. There are no Hue bulbs yet that utilize that socket.

I got these E12 to E26/E27 adapters http://www.amazon.com/JACKY-LED-5-Pack-E12-Adapter/dp/B00L595FA0/ to use my Hue bulbs with a ceiling fan that takes candelabra bulbs. They work really well, but make the bulb stick out about another inch.

Amazon has certified uses ones for only a couple bucks more.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014H2OXYU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pbfEybQE9JH5K

As said above, it IS on Amazon. It’s just 40% more in price than a month ago. Here’s the white/color version:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M9AU8MB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_IDIQBb0W320ED

Why use an adapter? You could buy the white ambiance directly in E12 format: https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Decorative-Equivalent-Compatible-Assistant/dp/B07177XMF9/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505721872&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=hue+e12+white+ambiance.

If you want color E12 you would have to wait till this fall. :)

What do you want it to do that this can't?

You can get E12 to E26 adapters. They do add a little height, not sure if it's enough to make the bulb stick up over the top of the shade.

The Lutron Connected Bulb remote can control bulbs directly and has a wall plate bracket. It doesn't wire in unfortunately.

You'll want to get the Connected Bulb Remote to run the setup I described. I don't think the other models work the same. If mounting in a wall plate, you'll also need the bracket.

I think it does connect to the hub - probably looks to that to see what's assigned for each button. Your internet being out wouldn't effect any physical hue switches because they connect to the bridge on the bridge's network, not your router's.

My router is never really down and I've not once had any issues with the setup as it is (as far as connecting via the app).

They also sell this wall switch which might make more sense for you than the tap depending on what you want: https://www.amazon.com/Philips-458158-Hue-Dimmer-Switch/dp/B014H2OYVW

Just installed a couple of these switch guards where my kids kept turning off the light switch.

Get one of these and put it over a switch

Yes.

Its been posted already, but I have these all through my apartment. Then a Dimmer switch mounted right next to them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002X88GYY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UAKCS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_fiRJybG76T80T

[Rocker Switch] (https://www.amazon.com/Light-Switch-Guard-Switches-Shields/dp/B00DUBOSTA/)

Search for Shabbat light switch cover. You will find a bunch of options. For instance:

https://www.amazon.com/Option-Switch-Guards-Clear-Toggle/dp/B00DTXKOTM/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=shabbat+light+switch+cover&qid=1570197758&sr=8-6

https://www.amazon.com/Option-Switch-Guards-Clear-Rocker/dp/B00DUBOSTA/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=shabbat+light+switch+cover&qid=1570197758&sr=8-14

I bought these.

I use this one for two of the lights in my house:

Lutron LZL-4B-WH-L01 Connected Bulb Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014STZASK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Fepyzb0C7TV95

Get this accessory and it fits in your standard light switch.

Lutron PICO-WBX-ADAPT Pico Wallplate Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JZRAFEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CfpyzbTEYY4F5

assuming youre talking about e12/candelabra?

these are what i use.

i did this exact same thing (thought i was so clever!). Used these adapters: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L595FA0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

5m RGBW RGBWW 5050 Led Strip Light DC 12V 4 in 1 Led Chip Waterproof Non Waterproof 60led/m indoor outdoor home decoration
http://s.aliexpress.com/BVb2yYfQ

Wireless electronic ballast FLS-PP lp with Power PWM interface for RGBW and RGB lights (12/24V LED/LED stripes), ZigBee certified product https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uTgEyb283918T

Either go for the ip20 or ip69

Not by itself. Needs to be connected to one of these
https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/

I plan on doing this or something similar to this in the future to do permanent Christmas lights on my house. I don't have all of the stuff picked out yet but I do plan on using this ballast to power the LED strips. The ballast is Hue compatible. I don't think it is waterproof but you could maybe stick it in a waterproof box. Ballast: https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1441210947&sr=8-1&keywords=FLS+ballast&pebp=1441211138516&perid=1H3E632X1Y8FTWMWS38Z

You can control basically any lights with this

I've not tried this myself but I think you can use this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/

Wireless electronic ballast FLS-PP lp with Power PWM interface for RGBW and RGB lights (12/24V LED/LED stripes), ZigBee certified product https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pkivyb18HR99K

So am I correct in assuming that instead of the 6ft Phillips Hue strip - I can get these two things and have the equivalent of a 30ft strip that still works with the Hue Bridge?

https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Waterproof-Flexible-600leds-Changing/dp/B00KCHRKD6

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ

I use one of these, mated to a cheap Sylvania RGB led strip:

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ

Is that the kind of thing you're looking for?

Link: https://smile.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ

Would this work ? https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Portable-Travel-Router/dp/B00TQEX8BO

The lightstrip happens to be on sale today: https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Lightstrip-Generation-Works-Amazon/dp/B014H2OXYU

Hue makes dimmer switches.

Oh look,
$17
Lutron LZL-4B-WH-L01 Connected Bulb Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014STZASK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_F4xizbVVSS6K1

this? and it works out of the box with hue?

This "SYLVANIA Smart+ Indoor Plug" works with Hue for me in the USA.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M6UM8QD

Apparently the osram lightify stuff is branded as "sylvania" for US.
Amazon link
This should be the same but for 120V US outlets.

Only if that light is 12/24V or you then hook up a relay to switch 110V. There's the implication that this works for switching: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M6UM8QD/ref=asc_df_B01M6UM8QD5413698/

You can do the whole kitchen using one Hue base/power source (you need at least one $90 base in order to control the lights). I used these Litesessory extensions+splitters:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M7XDZ5V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N3NTCYU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you need to cut a strip, use these split end connectors as well:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NDHP582/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Assuming that you don't mind them being controlled by a single controller (and therefore the same colour/brightness), I'd buy:

A 2m lightstrip plus for the two cabinets on the right - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B072R5VQJG/ref=sr_1_2?s=lighting&ie=UTF8&qid=1502294468&sr=1-2&keywords=hue+light+strip,

one of these for underneath the microwave oven - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Extension-Cable-Philips-LightStrip-White/dp/B01M7XDZ5V/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502294300&sr=8-2&keywords=hue+light+strip+extension

Which then bridges the gap to another 1m LED strip -(https://www.amazon.co.uk/Philips-Personal-Wireless-Lightstrip-Extension/dp/B0148NMVJW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502294300&sr=8-1&keywords=hue+light+strip+extension)

$44.93 with prime

https://www2.meethue.com/en-us/halloween

or

https://smile.amazon.com/Philips-464487-Equivalent-Compatible-Assistant/dp/B01M9AU8MB/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1539404108&sr=1-3&keywords=hue+lights

I used these, there are lots of size and positioning options if you search amazon...

https://www.amazon.com/Litever-Aluminum-Channels-Lightstrip-Mounting-LL-007-M/dp/B01NCS0WE8/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1543432240&sr=8-10&keywords=hue+light+strip+diffuser

someone posted a link to these a few days ago, i bookmarked it but dont remember what redditor posted originally... you might be able to use these on the ceiling and put the strips in. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCS0WE8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Litever 6-Pack 3.3ft/1 Meter 9x18mm U Shape Aluminum Channels With Diffuser, End Caps and Mounting Clips LED Strip Channels for Max 16mm Wide LED Lightstrip Light Mounting--LL-007-M https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCS0WE8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_taa_JwoJAbT72Z211

Not OP, but these are the ones I have in my living room.

You can buy them allready:

https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Hue-Decorative-Equivalent-Compatible/dp/B07177XMF9/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=phillips+hue+e14&qid=1569316758&sr=8-1

The US version of that form factor is e12 and they are available right now: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07177XMF9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_u-eZzb5SAFJXN

It is slightly different than the European e14, so I would double check which type you have before you order though.

https://www.amazon.com/Philips-468926-Ambiance-Candelabra-Connected/dp/B07177XMF9/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501272923&sr=8-1&keywords=e12+hue

like these?

Litcessory

Cut-End to 6-Pin 50mm Snap Extension Connectors for Philips Hue Lightstrip Plus

I haven't used this particular connectors, but I have used others from this company.