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The kratky method is a great beginners method to get into hydroponics. I currently have about 30 plants all doing the kratky.

General Hydroponics is a good brand and mix of nutrients. Its simple to use and doesnt require a scale to mesure stuff out. Use a tablespoon to measure stuff or a syringe.

Buy the PH up/down from GH too but be warned you will need to dilute it first or youre in for a fun time trying to correct your PH. (let me know when you get to this step and I can give better directions.

Get a simple PH tester. It will make your life a lot easier. Once I figured out that adding nutrients to my water brought my PH to around 5.9 I stopped testing everytime. (but i recommend that you do use it everytime)

You DO NOT need to grow in soil first, but like /u/BroposkisRump said you can just be careful washing off the roots. GOTO the youtube channels mentioned on check out Khang Starr's video first.

Some advice:

• Kratky is BEST for leafy plants like basil, lettuce, kale, etc.
  You cangrow those with no effort.
  
  
• Make sure all containers are opaque to prevent algae growth.
  
  
• Get seedlings and sprouts under a grow light to prevent stretching!!
  
  
• If you live in anything but a hot climate you will want a grow tent to grow peppers over winter - And a grow light - Get a digital timer and give your plants around 16 hours of light (you can get cheaper ones but I am showing you what i bought)
  
  
• Get 2 inch net pots and a 2 inch hole saw for your containers
  
  
• A fan on your peppers will help make then thicker and stronger plants and may help polinate them. You can also shake your plant ( thats what I do)
  
  
  Thats all I got for now. Once you understand this method try hydroponics using a different method as well.
  
  

No problem. Hope some of this helps.

I've never used rooting powder. RapidStart is a liquid you mix into the reservior for young plants. It comes with instructions for hydro systems.

If you don't recirculate the water to the fishtank, and it's not bubbling through a waterfall or something, then you should add an air stone. It will cut down on the algae at the very least.

> I'm thinking my initial failure was the way I germinated. Now, a bunch of my tomato roots are pretty long and good, and sit in the water.

Most likely. Skinny, leggy seedlings usually means not enough light or light too far away. They can also damp off which can cause the stem to become thin and brown until the seedling falls over.

I never use anything but pure pH balance (usually pH 5.5) water with my seedlings until they develop a true leaf set. The seed contains all the nutrients the plant needs up to this point. Presoak your cubes in the ph balance water for 24h before planting.

I also recommend investing in a germination setup. Add a thermostat to keep from cooking your plants :)

I usually plant 25-50% more seeds than I need, and select only the most vigorous seedlings.

Google for optimal germination conditions for the plants you're growing. It can vary significantly. Lettuces do not usually want the same conditions at tomatoes.

> But I have like 2 or so inches of water at the bottom of this thing. Is that super bad?

As long as the plants look healthy and the roots don't develop a layer of dark slimy crap on them (root rot) then you're cool. Optimally you want nice white roots. Some discoloration is OK if the plants are still healthy.

If you are worried about root rot, fungus, algae, etc, the nuclear option is Physan 20. Just don't use it on plants within a week or two of fruiting if you plan to consume the fruits (according to a company rep).

Growing from seed is a big challenge. Keep at it.

In b4:

• Yes, I know I need to wrap or paint those mason jars. I'm lazy and unmotivated, and the plants seem to do mostly okay despite all the nasty crap in the water.
  
• Yes, I know I need to exchange the water more often. See above.
  
• At some point I plan to add more mylar film to the blank wall areas and around the sides of the tomato stand.
  
• My nutrient mix is the standard MasterBlend mix. I aim for a pH of 6.5 to 7, but I only measure it when I make the mix. I never monitor the water once the seed is started.
  
• Seeds and planted dates are on the paper labels.
  
• Yes, I know that number of chives is basically nothing. I ordered some microgreens stuff (thanks guys!) to grow things like that in larger numbers.
  
  Been doing this for several months now. I use the same nutrient mix and other configurations for all my plants. They seem to do mostly okay.
  
  With this nutrient mix/pH/lighting setup I have been very successful at growing lettuce, basil, cilantro, and dill. I am now expanding to other seeds to see what can survive without needing multiple configurations. That is, I'm not gonna make two different nutrient mixes.
  
  Only the Aerogarden is different because it uses liquid nutrients. Since the roots in different pods tend to mix, I've learned the hard way that transplanting from a mature Aerogarden into a mason jar or bucket is not realistic. So now I basically just let it go until I'm ready to harvest everything in the Aerogarden and start a new crop. This thing is pretty sweet.

Thank you!! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072F2BL9D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_YZsPBb97764EX
These nutrients worked perfectly. Even without proper monitoring of concentration or pH it definitely did the job! Every other week I preferred to stir the undissolved salts that day at the bottom of the tote. Luckily there was never any shock to the plants!
So kind of a funny story; I started in peat pellets and my seedlings came up maybe b/w 3-7 days, they were very leggy due to not having a proper light or light cycle going. Then I was away for a weekend and everything dried up. I took what I thought I could salvage, cleaned off all the soil, transplanted them into the netcups and sure enough they survived to make it this far!
It’s a miracle there was no root rot from the leftover soil that stayed on the roots!
I chalk it up to lots of love and believing they would make it lol. But seriously, nature conquers all and these are relatively not very needy plants :)

Here's what I have so far and my quick write up.

My dad started the tomato plant that I am using in soil. He had too many for his garden, so I used that instead of starting one from seed in rockwool. My next plant will be started from seed.

I picked up a 5 gal bucket and Lid from Home Depot. <$5.

I cut a hole in the Lid to fit the 3" Net Cups. I put one right in the center. I quickly found out the cup it too small to support the plant so I had to use a support stick. I just bought this 6" net cup bucket lid.

The plant is supported in Expanded Clay balls. I chose this material as apposed to 'Hydroton, Coco coir, Viagrow stones, pearlite...' because from my very little research I found the clay to be the most environmentally friendly and easiest to use, disclaimer: I could be very wrong here.

The nutrient solution used General Hydroponics Maxi Grow. Simple to use, add X scoops per X gal of water. I am about to switch to Maxi Bloom. She is flowering and starting to produce fruit. I do now know when the best time to switch solutions. I am learning by experiment here.

To keep the nutrient solution oxygenated, I used this Air pump,two of of these air stones, and tubing. Any items will do, I used this products because I know an employee of Penn Plax and got them for cost $. Any pump will work, I got a two outlet pump for future expansion.

You should also be sure to have the correct pH for your particular plant. Here is a chart and a great site. I used this pH Test Kit and pH adjust.

It's that simple. Right now the plant is outside and gets about 8 hours of sun. I plan on keeping it outside as long as possible, then will bring it in and have to choose a light source for it.


tl;dr What I used for my first DWC tomato plant experiment. Step 1: Click all links above. Step2: Buy. Step 3: Tomatoes

Edit: Also, Watch this video

Fluorescent tubes sure have the ideal shape. It's sad they don't have the ideal light output.
I can't really say what intensity is achieved at X distance, but it will be all your plants care about.
The best way to find out is to measure the light intensity with a LUX meter and regulate height of pots and distance to lamp, based on what values you are getting. Peppers will probably like 2-4x intensity compared to what your micros will prefer and that can be regulated by distance. If it's difficult to reach the intensity your pepper(s) will need to thrive, you can always boost with a 9-14w LED household bulb wherever a little extra light is needed. For example, a cheap and simple clamp light, together with a 1500lm LED bulb will provide a good intensity over a 1'x1' area. Those two examples were picked randomly. You can choose whatever brand and kelvin you like.

You mentioned that you were thinking of having three 5 gallon pails of tomatoes and peppers, and if that is the case this light isn't gonna cut it. Without looking up the item, it looks like something you could use on seedlings or small young plants, but tomato plants get big, and its not likely this light would support them long term. It should be fine for lettuce assuming your plants aren't really spread out.

Honestly I would find something in the 300w range for three plants, such as this if you want to go LED. If you are looking to save money on the fixture, I would suggested some full spectrum CFL bulbs instead. Bar or coil bulbs should be fine either way, but you'll need a couple of them for good light disbursement.

(For the record, I did try to look this up but was unable to find it.)

Awww I was going for an A+. Oh well as long as you are happy.

Get yourself some books. My favorite references are books from Ask Ed and Jorge Cervantes. Jorge has an awesome DVD set that is really informative and funny. Plus I learned quite a bit from issues of High Times.

I will check back in this subreddit from time to time (I am, of course, using a secondary username). Be careful, have fun with your grow, and always remember the 1st rule - never tell anyone you are a grower.

Define what kind of hydro you want to do? A simple DWC system is good for being able to show the roots and such, but it's very volatile and things can go very wrong very quickly.

This is a system I built, though I'd say skip the chiller, but if you can get one it's much better. My freezer thing was cheap and worked fine with the t-5 lights, but gave me fits under my 1000W HIDs.

If you want to have your highest level of success you might want to consider a soilless hydro system like growing in coco coir or a peat moss based medium, maybe even rockwool cubes.

I'd guess the most important factor would be your budget. You're a high school teacher so I'll assume it's small.

something like this would work fine

The light is good. It's the same as this one by AeroGarden, which I use for a small herb garden: https://www.amazon.com/AeroGarden-LED-Grow-Light-Panel/dp/B0725QBG1G

Have grown basil, mint, zaatar, etc, and now cherry tomatoes. All Kratky style, in mason jars. Sits in the kitchen, looks nice, and emits WHITE LIGHT, not blurple. Sure there are more powerful lights but this is good looking, decent quality, convenient, doesn't get hot. I keep the panel pretty close to the plants. For bigger plants, like a full sized tomato, you'd probably want something more powerful, but herbs will do just fine.

The Root Farm model is white, AeroGarden one is black, prices for each have gone up and down a few times. I'd check Amazon. Got a second one a couple of months back for around $80.

That is the wrong way to learn about growing. It's costly and slow. Just watch some YouTube videos and go try. It's how I got started. I knew 0 about growing anything 6 months ago. Now I've got a successful crop and have a single tomato plant with over 20 tomatoes on it and many bell peppers growing, okra, pablano peppers, raddish, lettuce, basil, potatoes, kale and brussel sprouts. I've only spent about $200 too.

Most Helpful links/videos:

Intro to NPK: https://youtu.be/-gtFvhEjA3o

This is a great intro to nutrient deficiencies and effects on plants and how to diagnose: https://youtu.be/9SotrCwqfHo

Cheap Vinyl Downspout grow box: https://youtu.be/bYhwJIarjQ0

Pool noodles instead of rockwool, rocks, or cups: https://youtu.be/rFQiDbkjxY4

Common Veggie EC and pH: http://www.homehydrosystems.com/ph_tds_ppm/ph_vegetables_page.html

Easy to use nutrients:
https://www.amazon.com/MASTERBLEND-4-18-38-Complete-Combo-Fertilizer/dp/B072F2BL9D/

Cheap good EC meter (EC is shown in μs/cm instead of the more common ms/cm, as in above link, so the EC shown should be divided by 1000 to get normal EC numbers; it's easy, just remember when it shows 2300 EC, that's an EC of 2.3, or 700 is 0.7. Also note I've found with all these EC meters you need to dip and then swish them around in the solution and then read it, otherwise it will read inaccurate due to tiny air bubbles on the probes) https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FPG89CE?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Cheap good pH meter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07R4FMYY4?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Easy micro greens, which you use to sprout seeds you want to grow or eat as micro greens:
http://imgur.com/gallery/VARfNoo

ReUse 2 disposable plastic food containers, a cheap poly wicking cloth, and your choice of grow bed (dirt, coco coir, whatever)...

Stack the two containers.

Make 2 long cuts in the bottom of the top container thru the lid of the bottom container, along the 2 longer sides.

Push the cloth thru the 2 slots, such that it's layered across the bottom of the top container and the ends are hanging in the bottom container.

Fill bottom container with water.

Place grow bed material in top container on top of cloth.

The cloth wicks up the water and keeps the grow bed moist. You don't have to water it but maybe once every two weeks and can leave the micro plants there for staging plant growth every couple weeks cause they will grow slow. If you don't use dirt as the grow bed, you will need to replace water with a weak nutrient solution after three or four weeks.

Design and design considerations:

• Outside Design photo - rooster crowing
  
• Outside Design angle view
  
• Inside reservoir view
  
• Inside close up view
  
• Inside full view
  
  
• I anticipated issues with heat and so I placed my reservoir inside the shed on the concrete floor for a heat sink effect
  
• reservoir holds ~30 gallons of water filled from my well
  
• pump pumps up to ~ 11 feet high in shed (~12-13 feet outside). Pump was rated for 220 GPH at 10 feet, 0 at 13 feet. I figure I'm getting 150-200 GPH at ~11 feet.
  
• I used old hoses, hose repair ends (male and female) with hose clamps to attach, run up and through the shed wall, use a 'Y' splitter and run into the top of each system.
  
• 4" diameter 10' long sewer pipe (cheaper than PVC), elbows and extensions to extend the distance between the elbows. I was concerned about them being too close and over shadowing each other and so there is ~22" gap at the narrow end, and ~28-30" at the far end
  
• target drop was 4" for the 10' run.
  
• at the bottom, I used sewer pipe to PVR converter and joined together with a bottom drain coming out (1 1/2").
  
• this returns through the shed wall with a ~1" drop over 2 feet to re-enter the reservoir at ~2 ' height above concrete
  
• I used these net cups
  
• I'm using Inkbird Pre-Wired Dual Stage Digital Temperature Controller Outlet Thermostat 110V, 1100W Heating and Cooling.
  
  Heating/Cooling:
  
  
• The Inkbird dual stage controller is set to 71F. If the temp goes below that then the heating plug kicks on to active this 800w heater
  
• As seen below in my temp graph, when the temp outside goes high enough, the water temp goes above my target max of 75 F. I need to come up with a cooling solution. Updates to come.
  
• 5/23 update: Decided to get an active cooler Hydrofarm
  Active Aqua Chiller, 1/4 HP - Note in the temp graph below the blunting of the green curve as the red (ambient temp) went high. I have the dual stage temp controller set to kick on the cooling plug at 68, and this starts the second water pump that pumps through the cooler. The cooler is set for 69 currently so when the temp reaches 70, cooling kicks in. I am continuing to fiddle with this setting.
  
  Nutrients:
  
  
• I ordered General Hydroponics Maxigro, Maxibloom, Each 2.2 lbs. - and I started at 1/3 concentration of recommendation of the Maxigro.
  
  Plant photos:
  Plants received dry bare root with no green growth from starkbros.
  
  
• 5/15 2 week old plant - notice the new white growth
  
• 5/23 growth and increase in root mass A lot of the brown is old roots from before the planting, white roots with a bit of browning is visible.
  
  
  Temp graph:
  
  This is with the La Crosse wifi temp probe (https://www.amazon.com/Crosse-Technology-926-25106-Wgb-Wireless-Monitor/dp/B06ZYJ5L5B/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8) so I can check remotely. Red line is ambient temp, green line is water temp.
  
  
  
• 5/15 temp graph
  
• 5/23 temp graph with heater and cooling effect
  
  
  Water changes:
  
  
• 5/20 - pumped out old water, filled and allowed to heat to ~58 degrees before being impatient and starting the pump. Ambient temp was low 60s.
  
  
  

I would recommend the Roleadro 300w 2nd gen LED light. No blurpleness (which is why I got it), it's a decent light for about $70 on amazon. I'm only using about half of my 4x2x5 (LxWxH) tent, so I would get two if you'll be using your entire tent.

It's my first growing season with it so I can't comment on its long-term reliability but so far it's been great (I.e., decent build quality, no burnt LEDs). Heat hasn't been an issue and inside of my tent, it hasn't been too loud.

It does have its downfalls though. One is the hanging hardware it comes with is pretty cheap and doesn't adjust so you'll need to figure that out. Also, there isn't an on/off switch or the ability to daisy chain lights, which many of the other brands have.

However, for $70 it's a decent budget light.

Roleadro Upgrade and Newly Developed LED Grow Light Full Spectrum 2nd Generation Series 300w Plants Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HI3AFYM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SQU7ybW3KAC37

So the system I plan to have going is similar to the one in this video: https://www.familyplotgarden.com/building-an-inexpensive-aeroponics-system.html

My basement is half finished, my room is about 18ft by 15ft, and the unfinished part, separated by a door, is about 12 ft by 30ft. Both have about 8ft ceilings. I was thinking of putting it in the unfinished room so I don't get bothered by the light or sound of the pump, but I'm not sure yet. This is my first time attempting hydroponics, so I really have no clue about all the technical details. Is there something you would recommend I grow first that would be easy to manage and not mess up? Also when it comes to lights, what is the difference between the red blue ones and the white ones? And how do I know what height to have them at and when to move them?

Thanks again for the help

Edit: General Hydroponics Flora Grow, Bloom, Micro Combo Fertilizer set, 1 Quart (Pack of 3) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017H73708/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MOeKBbX75P0WN. Here's the nutrients I got

Here is what I'm running. Couldn't recommend it more.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B4GQ6MO?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Have two of them and one larger size. One unit only runs at about 150W actually so better on the power bill. :) Ive grown all the herbs you mentioned under it with great success. I like it more than the pure red/blue lights. Less weird looking light color and all.

IceProbe Thermoelectric Aquarium Chiller - 4 in. x 4 3/4 in. x 7 1/2 in. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JSVLBO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pYyvCb4BFVD71

Something like that should be pretty easy to make - the only thing stopping me is I don’t feel great about having another hole to seal/possible leakage from it.

As a beginner, I did not want to commit to a big expensive unit that I would have to mount or build a rack for. I had limited room and no interest in using tools. I bought the Sansi bulb because it was a cheap way to get started and I felt that it would be a fairly flexible solution. I started with one bulb for a few mason jar kratky plants on a small section of a shelf. As I added more plants and opened up more shelf space, I added 2 more bulbs and can now cover most of a 4' shelf.

I saw some of Jeb Gardener's Kratky videos where he used a sansi bulb with a clamp lamp, and it seemed to work nicely, so that is what I did. I figured that I'd have the flexibility to place the lamp as high or low to the plant as needed, and easily be able to move stuff around.

The clamp lamps are not the easiest things to clamp securely and point where you want them to go. But I made it work. If you wind up using something like that, you should remove the reflector or buy a lamp without a reflector as they should not be used with the Sansi bulbs.

I have a light very similar to that. I did not like my results with it. It is powerful enough for growth.... but not the kind you want all the time. I am new to the game, but I have had a lot of success with full spectrum LED's. Like this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HI3AFYM?ref=emc_b_5_i

>If your house is 77F, but your water is 93F, something is wrong. The water should be at ambient temperature, which in your case seems to be 93F. Do you have a lot of hot lights right up against the plants with no fan? If so, fix your lights.

This is from the default Aerogarden Bounty LED setup - I bought two of them - both have consistent (high) water temps. The issue it seems is that while germinating and while the plants are youn, the black deck that the water runs directly under is 100% exposed to the lights - I think a combination of that along with the 10" height of the 45w lights during the germination & young plant phase is causing the 16F difference - in the bounty growing the basil, where they shade the deck the water temp is only 8-10F higher...still 87F seems too high for basil so I add ice to that one as well... I brought up my observations to Aerogarden who said just to add ice cubes (my thinking plants dont like sudden temp changes), but that seems to work ok....but seems ridiculous I would need to add 10-12oz of ice twice a day just to bring it down to 70F for a a few hours.. (the ice I add now, is solution I had to remove from the bowl to make room for the ice)

​

​

Since it seems my issue is that the room already starts kinda warm, the LED lighting (along with a black deck with water running across it) is the culprit of the high water temps?

​

In my planned Kratky/DWC setup - should start off with?:

- White Lid/Deck

- fan/forced air blowing on each deck

- 3w or smaller light source when germinating

- moving up to a 10w when young

- moving to a 25w+ when the leaves are covering the deck 90%+?

-- Beyond, moving the lights up and down - is there any other way to keep them from warming things up too much - do they make lights with adjustable intensity?

​

>Don't use pure blue LEDs, you want either whites or red/blue. something like these: https://www.amazon.com/Roleadro-Spectrum-Hydroponic-Greenhouse-Succulents/dp/B01IVQ96KY/ref=sr_1_5

If I were going with just greens, Blue is best?

This guide is pretty comprehensive

If you want a super quick start, get some nutrients (I recommend General Hydroponics), 2-3" net cups, rock wool, and hydroton/clay pebbles.

Plant seed in rock wool, put rock wool in net cup, fill the remainder with hydroton, place net cup in a container with some water in it (kratky method), and start watering it until the roots touch the water.

Bok choi has been the easiest thing for me to grow by far so there's definitely something off in your system.

Having a pH pen and an EC pen is pretty much critical to diagnosing nutrient solution problems. This is the pH meter I have, which is kind of mid-tier but comes with calibration solution. Also pick up some storage solution as it will reduce how often you have to recalibrate the pen vs keeping it dry. EC meter you can go cheap on, I use this one and get good results.

Basic introduction to DWC for total newbies. I combed the internet and here are my initial recommendations.

1. This video by Kevin at epic gardening: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i3-9u-HtFG8 from 2013 but a good intro.
   
   
2. All in one DWC container kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K15K8DQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 includes everything but lights, if you need them.
   
   
3. If you don't have a southern exposure window to put this by, you'll need a light. I'd suggest: https://www.amazon.com/AeroGarden-45w-Grow-Light-Panel/dp/B0725QBG1G It may seem expensive, but it can be used for other growing needs such as starting seedlings. I'm growing rosemary, parsely, oregano, and newly propagated cuttings for christmas presents in mine
   
   I am using shop lights with my mini grow bin all in one DWC listed above. But mine is in my basement so doesn't have to look diningroom-worhty where my aerogardens are.

I would start with a deep water culture system, because they are super low maintenance.

Use a bucket and a fish-tank aerator... watch the video here. Buy a kit here.

General Hydroponics makes good products. Their liquids are good, but the Maxigrow and Maxibloom powder represents exceptional value. If you just have a few watermelons, just start with the liquid.

With all products, read and follow the directions.

absolutely, you'll get to see first hand the quality of each light, although they will share some of the light itself, directly under each will give you some answers in terms of light quality.
I've bought about 12 different LED brands and check the following out:
Look at each product carefully and let me know if you figure it out.

1. Product1
   
2. [Product2] (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Advanced-Sgrow-P300-Led-Grow-Light_60618233118.html?spm=a2700.7724838.2017115.45.3c93b095ygvrWe)
   

https://www.amazon.com/Light-4lamps-DL824-Fluorescent-Hydroponic/dp/B009GU4RMC/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=grow+light+t&qid=1567157547&s=gateway&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Daylight-Spectrum-Vegetables-Greenhouse-Hydroponic/dp/B07RKTQ355/ref=sr_1_28?keywords=grow+light+cob&qid=1567157598&s=gateway&sr=8-28#customerReviews

A T5 or LED setup like the ones in the links should work pretty well. There are definitely still other cheaper options out there, but I haven't done my research on that end of the market so I rather not give you possibly incorrect information.

Powder, namely the MasterBlend 4-18-38 fertilizer. With it I have successfully started and fruited 3 variety of Peppers, Cucumbers, Basil, Strawberries, and Tomatoes. Although the tomatoes haven't fruited yet. They have all been alive for ~3 months and are all 1 foot tall.

Watched a few youtube videos to get a high level knowledge. Checked amazon to get a rough idea of costs, Went to a local hydroponic store, asked for help and they helped me pick out the nutrient solution, ph balancer, stakes, tube etc. Bought the rest off of amazon. Read the instructions on the bottle. I'm sure there are better ways of doing things but this worked for me.

Light : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JQBQZQ/

Shelf: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CL9204C/

Tray: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XFZHF93/

Automation: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075GWQSYH/

Ph Control: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BNKWZY/

Pump (overkill): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012UZYMG/

Reservoir: Ikea storage box I had already.

White Basket (Not needed): From Target that I had already.

Rest I got from local hydroponics store.

Yes, I taped an air pump needle to the airline tubing with some duct tape. The air-line with a couple of layers of duct tape will fit snuggly through a water bottle sports cap.

I just transferred some Bell peppers into my system today. Below is the solution I used. Used about 5ml per gallon to get my water around 1400 ppm as I read somewhere they should in the 1400 to 1700 range. I'm just getting into hydroponics myself, and haven't tried peppers before so I've got no idea if this works or not. I did use this for some kale and lettuce and it worked very well (which I understand is totally different). Fingers crossed that I didn't just murder my sprouts. Would be curious to see if anyone else uses this or not.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017H73708/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZH46Bb4MN2NJW

MASTERBLEND 4-18-38 Complete Combo Kit Fertilizer Bulk (2.5 Pound Kit) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072F2BL9D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_E.PsDbVXZ6GS2

For when your tomatoes get bigger. Nightshades love this stuff. It's the dry ingredients so you get a ton of it and just mix a few grams at a time with water. It'll last you a while.

I ordered this combo of dry ingredients per Jeb's approach on youtube. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072F2BL9D/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So far it's worked great for everything I've tried. It'll last me a looooooooong time too. Saves you shipping cost for all the water weight of the other stuff I would think.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5zdi4KM3ewwfYMNo_KnU0A

>if I didn't add ice, the bowl/water container easy goes up to 93F after a 16 hour light cycle...

If your house is 77F, but your water is 93F, something is wrong. The water should be at ambient temperature, which in your case seems to be 93F. Do you have a lot of hot lights right up against the plants with no fan? If so, fix your lights.

>with lighting from something like this but hopefully a bit smaller -

Don't use pure blue LEDs, you want either whites or red/blue. something like these: https://www.amazon.com/Roleadro-Spectrum-Hydroponic-Greenhouse-Succulents/dp/B01IVQ96KY/ref=sr_1_5

I would try to shade the area, insulate the bucket and then add an Ice Probe. Check out the amazon links. I use the Ice Probe and double insulated my 5-gal bucket.

https://www.amazon.com/IceProbe-Thermoelectric-Aquarium-Chiller/dp/B001JSVLBO/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=iceprobe&qid=1570125812&s=gateway&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/Reflectix-BP48010-ubble-Pack-Insulation/dp/B000BPAULS/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=reflectix&qid=1570126123&s=gateway&sr=8-1 (cheaper at Home Depot)

>the usable photons hitting the canopy. Instead of watta

Just to prove my point, see the coverage maps below under product description:(https://www.amazon.com/VIPARSPECTRA-Certified-Reflector-V300-Spectrum/dp/B01B4GQ6MO/ref=pd_ybh_a_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=B4YA19NXQHHH99PART18

It was the first light that popped up on Amazon. I do note the umol/m2/sec unit of measurement but notice it says "PAR Value".

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EDIT: Provided link as I am unable to paste pictures.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NTBS91Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Growing lettuce greens.

Two 4-bulb 2-foot T5 lights.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009GU4RMC

I started with a south facing window, but it wasn't quite enough in winter. Eventually I bought this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IVQ96KY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It covered about 6 plants until the one bell pepper plant decided it was the alpha and would overgrow.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NQANQAC

I've used this with good results. One bag lasts forever too.

HLG 65 V2 4000K Horticulture Lighting Group Quantum Board LED Grow Light Veg & Bloom 4000K | Version 2 High-Efficiency Upgraded LM301B LED's https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076QDKVDZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pW9UCbD1SQFCK

Lot of people seem to be using these lights.

Maybe a few of these?

https://www.amazon.com/Horticulture-Lighting-Group-High-Efficiency-Upgraded/dp/B076QDKVDZ/

I doubt you have a 3D printer, but this is the pot I use:

Self-Watering Planter (Small) found on Thingiverse.

I also use General Hydroponics nutrients. They're so much better than the nutes that come with the Aerogarden. Here's a link, should last about a year:

General Hydroponics Flora Grow, Bloom, Micro Combo Fertilizer set, 1 Quart (Pack of 3)

Follow the directions on the bottle carefully, ie purple, then green, then pink. Idk why it's in the wrong order on the chart, it's really stupid they did it like that. I alternate every other one with plain water. I use this for both my Aerogarden and potted plants.

Oh, use filtered water, not tap water. Plants don't like chlorine.