Top products from r/Integra

The quickest and easiest temporary solution is to grab some Plast-X from a local auto store. Rub it in and wipe it off with a microfiber. It will help, but they won't look new and it won't last very long.

The more permanent solution is to sand the lights, 500 then 800,1500,2000,3000 etc. Then compound and polish with Meguiar's 105/205 or similar. Then you'll have to apply sealant (not wax, but something like Meguiar's M21) to protect from UV rays. This will bring them closer to new than any other method or product. If the lens isn't cracked and you spend enough time on each sanding step, they'll be near perfect.

3M also makes a nice little kit for a drill that you can find on amazon. If you don't already have a DA polisher, the kit is the way to go. It comes with an aggressive little pad, sanding discs, and polish. I found that 105/205 worked better than the single stage 3M polish, but it did work. The kit is nice as well because the orange polish pad it comes with is reusable, and with the right products (105/205) can be great for spot corrections on little scratches and swirls in the paint.

If you choose to sand, consider pulling the bumper off first. Our lights are tough because they are sunk in there so deeply.

It doesn't take much to be honest. You can go manual for under $1,000 if you look around. Keep an eye on CraigsList, OfferUp, check junkyards, etc.
 
If you decide you want to do it, then...


You'll need the following:
 

• B-Series Transmission Cable or Hydro (I'd prefer Hydro)
  
• B-Series Clutch, Flywheel & Pressure Plate
  
• B-Series Shift Linkage w/Bitch Pin
  
• B-Series Manual Trans Speed Sensor
  
• Clutch Master Cylinder
  
• Clutch Fluid Resevoir
  
• DC-Chassis Hydraulic Slave & Lines
  
• DC-Chassis Clutch Pedal Set
  
• DC-Chassis Passenger Side Manual Motor Mount
  
• DC-Chassis Rear T-Bracket
  
• DC-Chassis Manual Axles
  
• DC-Chassis Axle Half-Shaft
  
• DC-Chassis Manual Cluster (Optional).
   
  
   
  You can use your same ECU, but you'll need to trick the ECU for "start in park" safety switch by doing some wiring. If you don't want to deal with that and prefer a cleaner setup where you don't need to cut up your harness (which I personally prefer), you can get the following:
   
  
  
• OBD2A to OBD1 Jumper Harness
  
• Chipped OBD1 Manual ECU w/B18B Basemap
  
   
  It's important to note that you'll need an OBD2A jumper harness to make the OBD1 ECU work in your 1998 Integra.
  
  ('94-'95 = OBD1, '96-'99 = OBD2A, '00-'01 = OBD2B)
   
  
  I just gave you all the info you'll need, saving you hours of research. Hopefully that makes it easier for you. It's a fun project to do and you'll feel way more accomplished doing it yourself. Good luck.

A new O2 sensor is a cheap and easy fix that you can knock out in a few minutes with a 17mm(?) wrench, a jack, and about 15mins. A new cat is indeed a whole other story. If you pick up one online be it OEM or 3rd party and take it to a muffler shop, it'd be quite a bit cheaper and just as good as going to the dealer.

I just did my own O2 sensor last week and my hi-flow cat is in the mail as I'm in a similar set of circumstances. Have fun.

Does your car have power locks? If no then that kit does not have the hardware you need.

Here is a kit with the hardware:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Car-Central-4-Door-Locking-Unlock-Remote-System-Keyless-Entry-Kit/332586655887?hash=item4d6fb5a08f:g:25AAAOSwrBxaqk1g

I added something like to my 96 RS that did not have power locks.

If yes, I would recommend getting something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Crimestopper-RS4-G5-Remote-Keyless-System/dp/B00O2EGYDM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523642534&sr=8-3&keywords=crime+stopper

You can use that to remote start your car and lock / unlock the doors.

This is something of a hack solution, but since I had two OEM trunk actuators break on me, I decided to attempt and find a different solution. I bought a power door lock motor, and wired it to the trunk switch. To mount the actuator, I just expanded the hole on the included railing, and secures it into place with the tail light nut/bolt. It's lasted me about a year without any problems, it was only $15, and the motor fits under the trunk panel, so unless you remove the cover, nothing seems out of place.

Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Vibrant-1145-Streetpower-Black-Muffler/dp/B0018036Y8

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Vibrant website:

https://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1527_1032_1109&products_id=48&osCsid=e8ed2a46ba5ba30793acd3b07aed7b46

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Here's a sound comparison of my old Civic with the busted Evo muffler and with the Vibrant muffler and with my brother's Civic with a GReddy SP2 exhaust.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aU6reE2g2F4

Thank you! I think they look 90% as good as new!!

I used the 3m restoration kit

3M 39008 Headlight Lens... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AIZ5HY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

And this Sylvania restoration and UV coating

SYLVANIA - Headlight Restoration... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KIVYE6G?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Here you go. Not sure how everyone is out of stock, but Amazon with the Acura vendor still has it for sale.

If that doesn't work, I'd try calling AFHK. They're a very good dealership crew that still has a LOT of OEM stuff for the 90-00s Acura/Hondas, NEW.

I bought this Viper for my Integra: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C1T8P1O

Works pretty well, and the price is right. I also added this tilt sensor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GAYN3E

If you haven't already, look into the Clarion M508. A lot of folks that don't like the look of modern aftermarket stereos like those. Run a Google Image search on it, and you'll see they look right in place and period correct in older cars like ours.

But if you're really set on keeping the stock stereo, and just want AUX. Assuming your LS has the unit with the CD player, you can buy this here. It plugs into the CD Changer hole in the back of the stock stereo, then converts that to two RCA inputs. Which then, you can buy this to convert the two RCA's to AUX.

You can then mount that AUX port somewhere of your choosing. This Integra owner mounted it on their center console.

This is the deck I'm running. USB, SD, Aux in, amp pre-outs, and really good bluetooth. Only $45 USD.

https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-632UAB-Single-DIN-MECH-LESS-Detachable/dp/B00T3QBJ84

This video helps. But I'd consider, at least getting these adapters, which you may be able to rent.

For the Chrome (Which I have): http://www.amazon.com/Integra-Chrome-Projector-Headlights-Bumper/dp/B008BQR5TO/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1407892647&sr=1-6&keywords=acura+integra+halo+headlights

For the blacked out: http://www.amazon.com/Integra-Projector-Headlights-Bumper-Lights/dp/B0085FOZ94/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1407892647&sr=1-4&keywords=acura+integra+halo+headlights

I have seen both and I personally like the chrome more... Especially with the color of my car. And it's not noticeable like those ricer break lights. Completely stealth looking.

IDK about a cheap one. The Magnaflow I used was about $130. A bolt in is a little more.

MagnaFlow 22629 Direct Fit Catalytic Converter (Non CARB compliant) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JKLHEE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ciWFDbHS841QD

It's this kit

Schley Products Honda Acura Trailing Arm Bushing Remover Installer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HI0PUK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vC7RDb6F6FNHH

This. I have one but it wasn't this expensive. However it also doesn't require removing the arm to do the bushings saving time and parts.

There is this sort of thing which I believe hooks up to the stereo unit in the back:

https://www.amazon.com/GROM-Audio-Bluetooth-Wireless-[Streaming/dp/B00GOFS908/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?keywords=bluetooth+acura+integra+grom&qid=1558028855&s=wireless&sr=8-2-fkmr0](Grom unit for Hondas)

I am not certain if this will work with Integras so look into that first.