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>I just got a Garand from the CMP. I know how to look up the serial number, but is there any way for me to look up the numbers on other parts like the bolt?

You can try to match them with the reference parts over at AmmoGarand, but I think the best thing to do would be to get a copy of Bruce Canfield's book.

>Also, how do I know if my stock is original USGI? It has the “P” stamp (with no circle around it) and a “25” under the grip.

Post lots of pictures on this subreddit and folks can help you identify.

Hey there. This sub just masturbates all day long to the CMP. However the CMP has been known to provide rifles with serious issues. Oldschool M1 rifle Gurus hate the CMP. But, you can work with the CMP to get a nice rifle. So there are pros and cons, but the CMP is not the only route.

I am old school, and I seriously advocate for going to a place where you can personally handle a few rifles and talk to a few guys in person who know their stuff. Call a few shops and ask who knows antique Military surplus rifles. These guns are finicky even at their best and require some knowledge. We gets lots of dumb ass posts on this thread every week where some guys spent the money but didn't pick up a book or do a lick of research and then encountered a simple quirk of the M1 system that left them stymied.

So, I would first buy a good book on shooting the M1 Garand. They are cheap and plentiful. Here is one I own and recommend for a beginner: https://www.amazon.com/Complete-M1-Garand-Jim-Thompson/dp/0873649842

Second, go talk to some people. Internet does not count. You just can't get the kind of detailed info a 5 minute conversation with someone in person that you can get from an online post, like this one for example.

Third, compare the CMP to other options because there are other options.

Finally, just hammer the research. Look at every photo online you can find, read every article. If you are going to spend $1000 on a rifle, you must understand that knowledge is free and will put you far ahead of the pack. I hope this helps.

I'm in the same boat - mine arrives today from CMP - so I've been doing the same as you.

I got this book from Amazon, and it's proven to be a good resource for me while I've been waiting for my rifle.

One thing you'll need for sure is grease to lubricate all the rotating parts. After doing a bit of research, I arrived at this grease off Amazon.

You'll of course need ammo and enbloc clips. CMP is also the best/cheapest source of both of those, so add that to your order for the bayonet.

Finally this website is another good resource.

Enjoy your rifle!!

Pocket the buttstock so it sits firmly in your shoulder? Recoil shouldn't beat you up unless you're shooting a massive amount.

Hickok45 turned me on to the limbsaver. Like him, I'm tall so for shorter rifles it helps with a proper cheek weld. It absorbs a lot of the recoil and it has been a perfect fit on dozens of rifles, including the M1 family.

LimbSaver AirTech Slip-On Recoil Pad, Small https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KCS5X8O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lwdPBbAWVNDXB

if you feel like spending money on books I'd recommend this book by Joe Poyer. For it's $22 price and size it actually covers a good amount of detail about the Garand, especially if you are into collecting them and identifying parts.

Theres also Bruce Canefield's 1000+ page book. It goes into great detail about the development and service history of the garand but its $95.

I also heard good things about Scott Duff's three garand books, but I have yet to buy and read them:

M1 Garand WWII Development and Production

M1 Garand Post WWII

M1 Garand Owner's Guide

I'm definitely in the camp of using raw linseed oil too. You don't even have to buy the expensive kits from gun websites. Raw linseed oil is also called flax oil and can be purchased in the Barlean's bottle from Amazon for super cheap, and it will last you forever (I use it on all of mine).
I heard about it on this sub.

Barlean's Fresh Organic Flax Oil, 16 Fl Oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002VLZ830/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gQyMDbEQVMGVR

To clarify, the flaxseed oil is the food safe one that’s in the fridge section? Is this the stuff you’re talking about? Barlean's Fresh Organic Flax Oil, 16 Fl Oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002VLZ830/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_b.W3DbPSGD0ZX

KaBar Big Brother

Ontario Marine Raider

Ontario Freedom Fighter

These have been posted here before. I have no idea which is better or how well they would work, though.

https://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Arms-Gear-Insignias-Springfield/dp/B008UAQ06A

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KCS5X8O/

This book is good for getting all the info you'll need on how to not kill yourself and figure out what you'll need. No loading data really, get a lyman's manual for that. This is more of a beginner's guide. http://www.amazon.com/ABCs-Reloading-Definitive-Novice-Expert/dp/1440213968/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418410032&sr=8-1&keywords=the+abc%27s+of+reloading&pebp=1418410025785

If you want, contact sparx on CMP forums. He's a professional woodworker who does a lot of fitting on CMP/Boyd stocks. You may already know, but you'll need to strip the stock as it's finished with some Minwax sealer. You can send this to sparx and he will do this for you if you don't want to.

Side note, if you want that arsenal red color, use raw linseed oil. I use this:

https://www.amazon.com/NOW-Foods-Flax-Seed-Ounces/dp/B000MGOX82/ref=sr_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1482269449&sr=8-3&keywords=now+foods+flax+oil

This stuff?
Huberd's Shoe Grease https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MLBCWM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KPz4Cb8MWN262

If you don't want to run a plug in dehumidifier, try a renewable style like these from Eva Air. Just keep an eye on the beads and when they change color, plug in the dehumidifier and it'll dry the beads out.

I use this kit from Otis for cleaning the bore: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000C52A5/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It uses a flexible cable that you can use to pull brushes and patches through the bore, only from chamber to crown. The cable is plastic coated and should do no damage.

It takes me a lot of work to get clean patches unless I first use a larger brush to clean the chamber before cleaning the bore. To clean the chamber, I use the .38 brush from the Otis kit attached to the Pro-Shot Flexible Chamber Cleaning Tool, https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008P8F13U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

With this tool, you can work the cleaner-soaked brush into the chamber while rotating a few turns. This really speeds things up, and I do not need to worry about stuck cases from a dirty chamber.

Here is a video from Ruger on cleaning the Mini 14, so you can see the technique they recommend: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJ_XSF47s9s

(They make no mention of using a chamber brush.)

Scott Duff has an excellent series of books on the M1 Garand. For the M1 carbine I recommend War Baby by Larry Ruth.


The M1 Garand, World War II: History of development and production, 1900 through 2 September 1945 https://www.amazon.com/dp/1888722010/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OdcrDbNVAZ87Z

The M1 Garand: Post World War II https://www.amazon.com/dp/1888722002/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aecrDbEA59JSA

The M1 Garand: Serial numbers & data sheets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006F5XFG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_recrDbDN3REQ4

The M1 Garand Owner's Guide https://www.amazon.com/dp/1888722037/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5ecrDbXABQP1B

The M1 Garand of World War II: A guide for the collector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006EQKE0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RfcrDb027R9N6

War Baby! The U.S. Caliber .30 Carbine, Vol. 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/0889351171/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ddcrDbWHCNXAB