Top products from r/Machinists

We found 39 product mentions on r/Machinists. We ranked the 296 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/Machinists:

u/TheShandyMan · 5 pointsr/Machinists

> It may all be junk

If it works, and you don't have something better, then it's good enough. You don't need name brand anything, particularly when you're starting out. If you find something isn't up to snuff, replace it when you actually need to.

> A bunch of the tooling (mostly the taps) have some rust

If it's just surface rust then don't worry about it too much. If it doesn't rub off by hand, don't go making matters worse by trying to "polish" it with anything aggressive. Just add a light coating of a thin oil to stop it from rusting more. Taps, drills and the like are considered consumables. Properly cared for they can certainly last for years but if you are using them, eventually you'll need to replace them.

> Some end mills are obviously chipped, but otherwise I'm not sure how to tell which are sharp vs. not. Is it as easy as "this cutting edge looks dull"?

Pretty much yeah; although you don't usually need "razor" sharp; and in fact some materials cut better with a slightly dulled edge (brass comes to mind). Don't worry too much about discoloration from heat either unless it's real bad. A light tan on HSS tooling that's been put to use isn't a big deal but if its closer to dark brown / blueish / purply (and you're positive it's not coated or have carbide) then it's probably shot.

> Where do people get raw stock?

Depends on the project. If Its something that needs to look pretty I'll get fresh material from somewhere. If it's just a few pieces I might go online (Metals Depot usually isn't bad on pricing but it depends on what you can get locally). If I need a lot (weight wise) I'll call up some of the local fab shops and see if they have drops or will let me add onto an order of theirs for a discount.

If it's something that looks don't matter (for myself, structural etc) I'll troll the local metal salvage yard. Price per pound they can't be beat and you can get some crazy stuff you wouldn't otherwise be able. The downside is it's a lot of work and very inconsistent. When I make the trip out I tend to grab things I don't actively need but think I might at some point (case in point, I had about 150lbs of 2" plate sitting in my pile for almost 2 years before I found a use for it, but had I needed to buy it "new" it would have been prohibitively expensive).

> What kind of material should I start with.

Whatever is cheap that gets you comfortable with the equipment. Unless you're working on a project that calls for the "good" stuff, the cheapest simple mild steels and aluminum will be your bread and butter. Brass is also very easy to work with but tends to be more expensive (local market dependent of course). You could also look into various machining plastics (Delrin, hdpe, uhmwpe ec) but not having bought any myself I don't know how those run price wise.

Tool steels (O1, A2, S1 yadda yadda) are nice in that you can make your own tooling with it, but unless you ALSO happen to have a heat-treating oven that can reach and hold +/- 1800F you're having to farm out the heat treat to another shop; and sadly it's usually more cost effective (both time and money) to buy what you need; unless you love the "I made it" aspect.

Before you get too heavily invested materials wise you need to research appropriate feeds and speeds for your tooling and material. There is a decent amount of "wiggle" in what you should be running at, almost an art in knowing how to adjust for your exact piece of material and tools but it's a critical bit of knowledge if you expect to get a decent quality finish without a lot of manual sanding and polishing.

> anything else critical that I'm missing

I didn't see an indicol (offbrand is fine so long as it fits your gear) in your pictures but I could have missed it. You'll need an appropriate indicator as well. You'll need those to accurately tram your head in (making sure it's perpindicular to your table) as well as indicating your vises in (parallel to your tables axis). You can work around it, and indicate other ways but you'll (eventually) need the indicators anyways and the indicols themselves are useful in other ways.

u/Zundfolge-1432 · 1 pointr/Machinists

I own a Craftex CX-601, which is a very similar machine to the one you've decided on.

On the vice, I would recommend either buying a vice that someone else owns and can confirm is good...or only buy one you can see in person. I bought a 5 inch Taiwanese vice, and I'm pretty disappointed with the quality of it. It was on-sale, and I figured it would "do fine" while I looked for a Kurt or other super nice unit on Craigslist. Turns out it does "do fine", but the moveable jaw was shimmed instead of machined square. Not good. On my table a 5in vice is a good size, but I probably could have gone with a six. Consider upsizing yours to a 5in vice.

It's worth looking to see if you have any tool shops nearby that carry milling machines, even ones of a different brand. Armed with your machine's measurements you can find a "similar" sized bed on a floor model and see what a 4, 5 and 6in vice will look like. That's what I did before ordering both my mill and my vice size.

All the clamping kits are basically the exact same in the box, probably from the same company. Shop around, you can save even more money:

I own that end-mill set, very happy with it.

You have two edge finders listed, a Mitutoyo edge finder and a Fowler edge and centre finder. You only need the one combo unit, and this Mitutoyo is cheaper:

You are missing a holder for your horizontal dial indicator, which I'm presuming you're ordering for squaring up your head to the table, and your vice to the table. The magnetic base you have is great for checking run out of the spindle, and movement of the work, but not ideal for squaring up the head. I started with a clamp like this:
Which I wasn't too happy with. It works, but it's pretty easy to upset the clamp alignment and you have to start over. I have since ordered this unit: but haven't had a need to re-square my head or vice yet. Doesn't look like it's available on Amazon though.

I notice the mill you're looking at has the option to add the X-axis power feed for $299. If you can stretch the budget, definitely go for it. I figured I would "add one later" and even though I still plan on doing so, man am I cranking away on that handle a whole lot.

It's not cheap, but I find this set of drill bits to be quite handy:

u/Gutkrusha · 1 pointr/Machinists

I've used some Fowler calipers at work and... I will never purchase a pair for myself. They're almost always inaccurate, I have to constantly zero them, even after calibration.. just.. ugh.

It's true that Mitutoyo tools are expensive, but part of that price is longevity. I've had the same Mitutoyo Mic for 2 years now and it works just as well as the day I got it. I've had other brands that only worked well for 4-6 months of regular use, and it just isn't worth the hassle.

Honestly, though, with a .002 tolerance (Which compared to my tolerances at work, that's massive), you could get away with an eyegaging or something similar. I used These for about 8 months when I was starting out and they were adequate.

u/graffiti81 · 8 pointsr/Machinists

I'm using Precision Machining Technology at school right now. Covers pretty much everything, from basic hand tools right up to programing G-code. You can get a second hand copy pretty cheap.

u/comfortably_pug · 3 pointsr/Machinists

i feel like i am being trolled by this post but i'll give you the benefit of the doubt

  • you are supposed to put the drills directly in the collets. you're looking for jobber and stub twist drills. good quality hss is ridiculously cheap, don't fuck around with the chinesium from home depot.
  • er11 collets are also super cheap
  • 2000 rpm is going to be fine for drilling most plastics up to about 1" dia, and most aluminums up to about 3/4" dia, and graphite up to about 11/32" dia
  • most of your inevitable questions can be answered in the machinery's handbook pocket companion

    finally, CONCENTRICITY IS IMPORTANT TO ACCURATE HOLE SIZES. those garbage chucks you bought from amazon are meant for hand drills and will probably have 5-20 thou runout, which is a big deal if you need your hole to be 125 thou.

    the more things you have between the tool that's going to cut the workpiece and the spindle, the more inaccuracy you're going to have.

    if you cheap out on everything (where not cheaping out is still cheap), don't come back here asking why all your holes are fucked up.
u/thach47 · 2 pointsr/Machinists

Any edition would probably work for what you need. The newest looks to be this 29th edition, but I've got an older 24th that I've used in the past. Whatever you can find cheaper and better quality! If you can't find it at the library, i would seriously consider buying your own copy. For me, ever since getting into this trade, i cant seem to find enough time in the day to absorb (and retain!) all the information out there to improve my own ability around the shop!

What are you mostly running? manual machines or any CNC?

u/mmediaman · 2 pointsr/Machinists

This book by peter smid is what our mastercam instructor used to teach us the fundamentals. Very basic feeling after you get into the trade but it's necessary. Pm me if you would like to glance at a copy.

u/nine_divines suggestion of the machinist handbook is great, probably the only book I use I. The shop that's not a tooling catalog.

u/tyfunk02 · 2 pointsr/Machinists

Yeah, it's basically the bible, but I almost never look at mine. It's a wealth of information, but it's also overwhelming, and there is a lot of stuff in it that you're never going to need. Of all the references I have for machining, this one tends to be my go to. It has a lot of the same information as the Machinery's Handbook, but it's easier to find.

u/scoroby · 5 pointsr/Machinists

I'm currently doing school for my 4th year in my apprenticeship. My professor has and highly recommends CNC machining handbook by Peter Smid. I'll find a link

CNC Programming Handbook

He says it explains CNC programming in an easy to understand manner. I kinda want it myself because I'm with you, g code is rough for me lol

u/robstah · 3 pointsr/Machinists

Find the best looking Brown and Sharpe used dial caliper on ebay. I think I paid $35 and it is still mint and the movement is silky smooth. Your mileage will vary though.

But if I were you, I'd just save up and drop some coin on a Mitutoyo digital. A new standard 6" is $100 right now.

u/Facist_Canadian · 2 pointsr/Machinists

If you work for someone, see if you can get 'em to spring for a powered air purifying respirator. Used one at my last job, absolutely fantastic for filtering out particles. This particular kit doesn't work for fumes from spraying anything, but for solid matter it can't be beat. If you need it for vapors or chemical loads the step up from that, TR-600 works for those as well.

u/THE_CENTURION · 1 pointr/Machinists

Uh, pretty sure the pointed end is a "center finder". That's what I use it for anyway.

That's what Mitutoyo says it is.

You have a good idea too there though, but I don't think that situation comes up enough to warrant slapping one on the back of your edge finder.

u/I_Lick_Bananas · 1 pointr/Machinists

I don't know how much you consider "stupid expensive" but I got something like this, and I'm sure if you look at ebay they're even cheaper than this one.

u/curiouspj · 2 pointsr/Machinists

Decent digitals will outlast you as well btw.

IMO, etalons are a luxury item in this era. I wouldn't be purchasing them new since their price is so high relative to what's out there.

My first 0-1" micrometer was a digital but I also bought an analog one. I used the analog since it fit into my apron...

u/ndkohlman · 1 pointr/Machinists

Pick up the Machinerys Hand Book or machinists bible as its known. It has detailed breakdown of the SAE/AISI numbers and their makeup.

u/legotri · 1 pointr/Machinists

I could be, I will have to look at the metric side. I'm not super familiar with thread gauges, and it looks like it's "harder" to use than I'd expect. The one I have is here:

It does look like I'm looking at the SAE side and should have been looking at metric.

u/Zumbert · 3 pointsr/Machinists

Man honestly order yourself a Thread pitch gauge watch a few youtube videos, get some scrap and practice, cutting threads isn't overly difficult or magical it just takes a little practice and you can probably make what you need within a week or so, and you never know when you will need to do it again

u/jon_hendry · 2 pointsr/Machinists

Does Amazon have any used copies available?

EDIT: If 7th edition would work for you (current edition seems to be 10th), Amazon has used copies starting at $9.42

u/dominicaldaze · 3 pointsr/Machinists

Prob be able to find one used. This has a thorough (though basic) primer and equations on gears and threads that should help you.

u/KingCarbon · 1 pointr/Machinists

I would get an indicol holder like this for a bridgeport.

u/notkoreytaube · 1 pointr/Machinists

take a look at this. it realy dumbs down a lot of stuff for beginners, but also includes some stuff pertaining to entry level cnc programming. I think it goes over like coolant compositions, types of mills and lathes, types of cutting tools, processes and such. Has lots of illustrations and, as my cnc instructor says, pitchers for the visual learner.

edit forgot to put the name of the book/ a link

nims precision machining technology book

u/[deleted] · 7 pointsr/Machinists

RGB LED Flood Lights, 100W Color Changing Outdoor Floodlight with Remote Control, 16 Colors 4 Modes Dimmable Security Light, IP65 Waterproof Wall Washer Light for Outdoor Decorative Garden Stage Ligh

They seem decently well made, however one of the two I bought didn't respond to the remote. Popped it open and found the ground and signal pads of the IR receiver shorted. Cleaned up the board and it worked fine. We'll see how long they last.

The stock lights in our Haas used super cheap LED drivers. I had one start to blink. Opened it and and bench tested it and read 150*C with an IR camera on the mosfet used for switching. There was a small heatsink, but the fet wasn't screwed to it and had no signs of thermal compound. Pretty shitty when you pay 100k$ for a machine. Had a second fail earlier this week in the same fashion. I had some heat issues with a replacement driver I put in as well, granted it was another cheap driver (but had a heatsink at least) so I decided to just go with something totally different now.

u/AtomicFlx · 1 pointr/Machinists

When it comes to comfortable long term wear, as well as good eye and ear protection you can't beat this:

Yes, its expensive but its a lot less than a visit to the doctor for any health problems.

u/byerdbot · 2 pointsr/Machinists

There's nothing really wrong with your tool path but it looks nicer if it's consistent.
It's also easier to find out what's going wrong if something is going wrong.

If you have little experience I would suggest getting this book.

Any version will do so you might find a older/cheaper edition on eBay or something.
It goes over the fundamentals of being a machinist and the basic stuff you'll need to know.

u/Collindb20 · 5 pointsr/Machinists

Machinery's Handbook, Toolbox Edition

This one is good but a bit expensive. It gives VERY detailed dimensions of the geometry of screws and what not.
This is more of a refrence than a teach you how.

u/busted_flush · 1 pointr/Machinists

I have some of their black body calipers and while I agree with you 100% I'm not sure they still cary them. At my store they now only carry the silver body and the one I bought ended up in the trash. It was really bad. You can get an igaging 6" caliper on amazon for $40.00. That's the route I've been going.