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Apologies in advance for the book.

It does sound like she's getting too big to manage herself - I know a cat like this, and getting that stimulation especially where she can't reach it in a spot that is already a sensitive sweet spot for cats probably elicits this overreaction (like she's SUPER overstimulated), and the cat I know has also overgroomed a spot she can reach to a bald patch, but not to the point of bleeding. This isn't so much behavioural as it is a reaction to her own condition, and it seems more physiological than anything else.

First thing is first: when is the last time both cats saw a vet? Do that first. You don't want to be making big changes in her life if she's not in a good place health-wise already. A vet will be able to suggest ways to manage this cat's weight by providing things like an ideal weight for you to strive for, to treat her bleeding and overgroomed areas, and if needed, give her a bath or a groom (or recommend someone who can). Ask about a good way to help her clean herself, like by wiping her down with a warm damp cloth and following it up with a thorough brush. If she has a tummy problem like diarrhea frequently, let them know because it may be something that needs addressing, even if it's as simple as changing her food or adding a probiotic to her diet/routine. Get blood tests done, and check the functionality of her thyroid.

I notice overweight cats tend to get greasier more easily because, as you said, they can't reach parts of themselves. I imagine any litter problems are exacerbated by her inability to groom herself back there too, which can also be quite problematic as they age.

What kind of diet are they on? If they eat a dry food diet, look to transitioning them to a wet food diet. Wet food is higher in moisture, higher in protein, and lower in carbohydrates. Carbs are a huge problem in fat cats because they come from sources like plants that cats aren't built to digest the same way they do meat, so avoid foods like Science Diet since I think all of their foods contain corn as a higher ingredient (meaning the protein it advertises it has comes from plants, so it's in one end and out the other, and the cat comes back hungry all the time). Super cheap brands will contain corn too, and other foods will contain some starches or grains - if you're on a budget, look for something like Sheba, Fancy Feast, Friskies, Authority in pate. Gravies and shredded foods contain more carbs because they need to thicken up the "sauces". You get more bang for your buck with pate, and having the water built right into the food helps satiate a cat's hunger better, as most cats will eat dry food and forgo water until they start feeling crappy. Generally cats don't drink enough water on their own.

For cats who need to lose weight, 18-20 calories per pound is a general guideline I've seen around (some say it's generous - you can ask the vet about this), but it's based on their ideal weight. If you're starting a diet, start at 1lb less than her current weight so it's not a total shock to her body, and then start working your way down to her ideal weight's caloric requirements. Most of the food I've come across, high end dry food is 116-120 calories per ounce and wet food is 28-30 calories per ounce. I have a food scale that helps make it easier to measure, but to give you a general estimate, one of those wide, round soup spoons heaping gives me 1.5 ounces of pate style food.

You can also work on feeding the other cat by himself, like in another room, or in a crawl space the female is too big to fit through. That way he always has the option, but she's limited to the food she gets in the wet meal feedings you give her.

Dashing from the litter box could also have something to do with where the box is set up. If you only have one litter box, get one or two more so the cats have the option to use a box that hasn't been soiled by the other recently, or so one isn't waiting outside or preparing to ambush the other. If something happened to spook her in there once, she could be afraid and may want to get out as fast as she can. When you get another litter box, place it in a different room and see how she takes to that one - keep the same type of litter so she still recognizes it as a litter box.

I don't mean to sound like a jerk saying this, but as someone with long hair, I've seen our cats hoover up a few of my hairs, which is pretty gross but just do your best to keep the place swept and vacuumed to best prevent her from accidentally ingesting long hairs.

When it comes to exercise, do you guys play with her frequently? The upside to working regular day jobs is that cats tend to be more active at night anyway, so she can nap while you're away and you can work her while you're home! Toys aren't fun to cats who are waiting for something to move that they can stalk and chase. Especially if she isn't big on going outside and exploring or chasing whatever's out there, you'll have to fill that gap here.

Laser pointers, Da Bird, other wand toys, and you can even improvise since cats will play with garbage if they think it's fun. I've had great success with small plastic pieces, like the caps holding the wand toys together, and just tossing them. My cat goes NUTS chasing them, making 6 foot leaps in the air just to catch it in her mouth or between her paws, and they do the same for dried out little pieces of black licorice. Straws? Our cats go wild for these Sproket straws that are at Pet Valu because they're woven and very bouncy, so the weave can catch in their claws and what they end up doing while they fling their paws around is tossing it around, so they go chase it again. If we're around, we bunch them up and let them fly for them to chase. Flouncy little springs?

If all else fails, get some healthy treats, even a high end, low-carb kibble that you can break into pieces and throw around the house so she'll have to chase it down if she wants to eat. The food I feed is 13% carbs and 48% protein - grain, soy, gluten, and byproduct free (though the last one isn't a huge deal to me - the others are). Cheap foods can be anywhere around 30-40% carbs. Drop those like rocks and find something better elsewhere.

Here are some links that will be helpful to you, but just a note that the first one tends to push towards raw diets. If your cats have lived on wet or dry all their lives, and especially if you don't have the time or money to dedicate the research towards committing and feeding raw, don't do it. Wet food is a better "biologically appropriate" compromise, which the author also thinks, but her stance is a bit strong towards raw.

http://www.catinfo.org/?link=felineobesity

http://www.catinfo.org/docs/FoodChartPublic9-22-12.pdf (a bit outdated, but still a good gauge)

http://fnae.org/carbcalorie.html

Good luck!

The Kickeroo is stuffed with soft stuff, like cotton batting. My cats hate paper filling in such toys but love the Kickeroo. It's been my experience working with cats that this is basically the only Kicker toy worth buying. This is only helpful if she is a kicker, i.e. when she plays, if she lays on the ground and uses all four paws to kick/shred the toy/your arm. It's a natural instinct cats have to disembowel prey. But not every cat is a kicker, so not every cat will benefit from this.

Not every cat responds to catnip, so no biggie there.

It sounds like she's just too intelligent for her own good. Either there is some physical quality to the wand that is attracting her (can test this by either removing the string part or just holding the toy in your hand so essentially the toy is only a stick, then moving the stick on the ground like it's prey), or she has figured out toy -> string -> stick, so if you get the stick, you win. I'd recommend a wand toy with a longer string. Da Bird entertains 98% of cats in my experience. Also, the cat dancer is 100% worth the $3.50. It moves like a bug would. In my experience, 100% of cats under 5 respond to it. They might get bored after 5 minutes, but I'm usually bored after 5 minutes, too.

Your cat sounds like a really good candidate for clicker training. The idea with clicker training is twofold: one, you train her to do what you want her to do (be quieter, leave you alone when you are doing certain things); two, she gets a sense of intellectual fulfillment and satisfaction. Cats are designed to hunt prey. When they live in our homes all their lives, they never get to do what they were meant to do, so I think it's natural that they are frustrated at times. When you clicker train a cat, you are stimulating a part of their brain that makes them think. If they respond to certain stimuli, they get a reward. Even if you just do this 2-3 minutes a day, you should see improvements in her temperament.

I've used an assortment of free resources (there is a great Yahoo group for clicker training cats) to teach myself. There are also two books that are considered the gold standard for this: this and this. I haven't read them, but if you're looking for a quick way to start, I've heard good things about both. The clicker is important - you can also use an old jam lid (one with those pop up buttons) as long as it makes a distinct, regular, loud-enough sound. This is all based on psychological research, so don't skimp on that part.

Wish I could be of more help! Good luck.

Oh! Excellent!!! You'll be so happy with your kitty. Here are some of my cats' favorite things:

(1) A view out an open window, facing a tree or some kind of natural shrubbery where he can chirp at squirrels or birds (if you have access to such a thing). Even if there's no "wildlife" in the area, cats like to look outside at passersby too.

(2) High places, like cat trees, or window ledge lookouts: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/images/Categoryimages/normal/p-21651-43327-cat.jpg

(3) Multiple sources of water, and preferably a running fountain. Amazon has one for $20 I think. Cats don't have much of a natural thirst drive but (males especially) are prone to urinary crystals. One of the best preventatives is drinking plenty of water, which cats are more likely to do if you give them a running source of it. You'll also find that some cats like to drink out of your own water cups lying around. It may not seem important that they get that much water, but my cat has been hospitalized twice for urinary crystals and that's way more expensive than a fountain.

(4) Scratchy posts and such. Keep them off your furniture!

(5) A litter box, preferably a covered one, in a private area. A rug underneath it will help with your own sanity because they'll kick the litter everywhere. I've turned the closet under the stairs (the Harry Potter closet) into a cat bathroom for my babies with a motion sensor light to give them privacy. I currently use this litter: http://www.amazon.com/Precious-Cat-Premium-Clumping-Litter/dp/B0009X29WK/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1370152220&sr=1-1&keywords=cat+litter I used to use World's Best but it was like they were crapping in crushed diamonds, it was the most expensive thing I was getting for them.

(6) A furry bed or basket with blankets. Cats love that velvety furry texture. Mine seem to love baskets, but really anything with high walls that encloses them. If you are low on $$ then even a cardboard box with some squishies to line it are excellent.

(7) Toys that act like actual prey. My cats love Da Bird and they love this crittery thing even more: http://www.amazon.com/Da-Bird-Catcher-maker-Feather/dp/B000LPOUNW/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1370151820&sr=1-3&keywords=da+bird, and I find it's more resilient than Da Bird (they yank on it). Toy mice and crinkle balls are also a favorite. Laser pointers, catnip-stuffed anything are also favorites. I've never known cats to really like balls or larger toys much. If it looks or acts like something they'd hunt, they basically go crazy for it. Again, if you're poor, you can easily make crinkle toys out of plastic bags (just watch the kitty during playtime and put the toys away when you're not engaging), or catnip-stuffed socks.

(8) Microchip! Collar! Kitties are good at sneaking through open doors. My cat is also insured and I've saved hundreds on his vet bills, it can be a good decision.

I can't say I'm the best with food recommendations. Sometimes it just really depends on your budget and how your cat likes and responds to food you're feeding him. If he has a glossy coat, minimal shedding, and a healthy weight, it's a good food choice. Hopefully someone else can chime in with what they're feeding their kitties!

Your problem is... you have a kitten.

Honestly, all of this sounds like a normal young cat with a lot of energy who's bored out of her mind. Different cats have different energy levels, and your mom also had multiple cats together. Your kitten is alone, so all of her entertainment comes from you or from finding things to do herself, many of which won't please you. I would check out something like this book, which is a quick, easy read and covers strategies for all of the problems you're having. In brief, here are some things to try:

• Scratching: Offer lots of acceptable scratching surfaces, both vertical and horizontal. Sisal posts and pads as well as cardboard are all great and really cheap. Put them in areas where your kitten likes to scratch. If you see her scratching the carpet, pick her up and gently move her to the scratching toy. If necessary, reward her with a treat the first few times she uses the toys.
  
• Scratching: At the same time, you want to make the carpet less appealing to scratch. Try putting down double-sided tape or tinfoil in the affected areas. Both of these are cheap, easy to remove, and won't hurt the cat or the carpet.
  
• Scratching: Keeping the cat's claws trimmed will also reduce her need to scratch, but keep in mind that scratching is completely healthy and necessary for all cats. (For one, it's how they stretch their back muscles.) If you're totally unable to get the scratching under control with toys, you might also look into getting Softpaws for her, but you probably won't need to.
  
• Activity at night: Cats are most active in the evening by nature; they're technically crepuscular. To help you get your sleep anyway, you'll need to do multiple play sessions in the afternoon and evening. Yes, that takes time, but it's a pretty fun investment in a good night's sleep. Laser pointers, Da Bird-style toys, and this weird thing are all great for high-energy play. Cat playtime should mimic hunting and stalking prey, so avoid just waving a toy in her face (which can get the cat frustrated and more wound up). Hide the toy in various spots around the house, peeking out just a bit, and make her hunt it. Make her run and jump. With my 16-month-old, playtime isn't really done until he actually starts panting. (Be reasonable with this, obviously.)
  
• Meowing: I would revise feeding times. Ideally, you should play with the kitten before bedtime, then feed her. That way she'll be worn out and ready for a long nap when you go to bed. If you're currently free-feeding, consider moving to one or two distinct feeding times. This will allow you to make food a bonding event, and if you play with her before feeding time, you'll also reinforce the sense that she's hunted successfully and can now settle down. Important: Avoid feeding her first thing in the morning, which will encourage her to meow at your door to get you out of bed. My cats eat dinner when I come home from work, then have playtime and treats right before bed. (They eat high-quality dry food for treats, but they're kind of weird.)
  
• Activity at night: Simply speaking, your cat gets bored at night, so offer entertainment that doesn't involve harassing you. There are lots of inexpensive toys she can use by herself, including puzzle toys that dispense treats. Leave her with one or two each night; change it up to keep her interested. A cat tree by a window can be a good way to let her observe nocturnal wildlife and secure her territory, and it can be a good place for her to sleep as well. If you can get her sufficiently worn out before bedtime to make this feasible, I've found that letting my cats sleep in my bedroom actually keeps them calmer and quieter. They take their cues from us settling down and going to sleep, and they feel safe to do the same. My older cat would meow at the door all night when she was young too, and we didn't start getting normal sleep until we let her sleep with us.
  
• Deterrents: You've already figured this out, but punishing cats doesn't really work. They don't understand what's going on and can get anxious and neurotic, and if they're sufficiently bored, even getting water sprayed at them can be a fun way to get attention. The best way to modify cat behavior is usually to offer more fun and interesting alternatives, while making the undesirable behavior less fun and more difficult. In your case, your kitten has figured out that meowing at your door will get you to interact with her for a solid hour and a half. To avoid this, something like the Ssscat may be a good way to keep her away from the door at night without interaction from you. However, you'll have to do this in addition to, not instead of, all the stuff above; otherwise she'll just meow at your door from three feet away.
  
  Good luck!
  
  Edit: I fail at Reddit formatting, apparently. ;_;

There's already been a lot of great advice here, but I want to stress that should your parents engage in abusive behavior again (such as the slapping and throwing) and even just the neglect of tossing the cat outside and leaving care up to you (if they fail to scoop/maintain litter, food and fresh water), report them to animal welfare. This could be an SPCA or other similar welfare organization, but NOT animal control and it's best to go straight to an animal welfare organization than the police (who are more concerned with people).

You've made mention that things for animals (like shelters) aren't so good in your country, it may help us help you with recommendations on humane resources if you mention what country that is (and if you're comfortable, smaller area like province/state/et cetera).

A lot of the kitten's behavior (being a 24/7 pain in the ass) is normal and expected, and they'll be a handful for most of their youth. A kitten is considered a cat by one year but it may take two or even three years to mellow out into a full grown cat personality. However since they've been separated from their mom and litter mates too early it's on you to provide the extra care they need until they're of weaning age, so be sure to do plenty of research on providing care to an overly young kitten. It's been over five years since I raised my last litter so I'll leave further advice on that to others.

Additionally, you can easily never buy cat toys. Mine loves just plain ole straws, many thoroughly enjoy other "garbage" toys like crumpled paper or crumpled aluminum foil, hair ties, milk caps, et cetera. The only mandatory "cat toy" will be the cat scratcher. There are all types, even just corrugated cardboard. If you wanna get fancy when they're a bit older if you can't find a better home, these turbo scratchers are amazing.

Good on you for stepping up to the plate, good luck in training your parents. I hope you also have access to therapy and a strong support system (like good friends). Best wishes.

this may repeat what others have said but this is a fairly exhaustive list of things that have shown really good response from my cats:

• Go Cat mouse teaser - made by the same people who made da bird (next bullet) which is featured a lot on My Cat from Hell and is a very popular toy; my younger cat goes APESHIT for it every time and wants to play with it whenever we let him - he will jump higher and run faster than with any other toy
  
• Go Cat "Da Bird" - simply put, a great cat teaser; it will whistle through the air if you guide it at the right speed (pretty easy to get after practice) and both of my cats love it (and as mentioned above, very very popular)
  
• pom pom balls, fluffy puff balls/"mice", etc. - basically balls that are soft, fuzzy, and can fit happily in cat mouth - my cats bat these around (under couch/table/etc. :/) and carry them around the apartment proudly
  
• mylar balls or other chewy/noisy balls/"mice" - great for making noise to pique their interest and also fun to bat, carry, etc.
  
• random shit filled with catnip - I first bought one of those little animals that you fill with nip, but now I just fill an old sock, tie it off, and it works just as well
  
• laser pointer - I linked the one I use, but obviously doesn't matter which you buy; however, you need to commit to some time with playing with this each session, as I've felt that starting a play session only to stop before your cats are exhausted is asking for trouble, as the laser pointer gets them SO EXCITED that they stay crazed and they have to burn off that extra energy somehow...
  
• BOXES - do you buy things? KEEP THE BOXES - they are probably the most easily/cheaply accessible toy you can get with the most use because cats love playing in, sitting, sleeping, squeezing into, etc boxes like it's nobody's business. also - keep the bubble wrap/air packs because those are also fun to pounce on/attack
  
• straws - I bought a pack for like a dollar and have tons still - not always a hit but are fun to chew and bat
  
  that's about it as far as things that remain interesting... and that fit in nice categories
  
  note the Go Cat toys will become destroyed if you leave them out unattended/after play so keep them somewhere out of reach when not in use

First, congrats on deciding to adopt an adult cat! You are awesome and you're going to make this cat happy no matter what you do.

If he's healthy, well fed and safe in his territory, then he's going to be a very happy little cat. For feeding, I do one can of wet food a day, and dry food free fed while I work. Depending on his size, you may want to schedule his meals instead. Fat cats are cute, but not healthy

I am one who is against having a cat outdoors for any reason unless you live on farmland or acres of your own that are protected from outside animals. In the US, your cats life drops from 12-15 years to 2-5 years on average. A cat can be very happy indoors, regardless of if they were once an outdoor cat. Outdoor house cats are also a burden on nature and kill billions of other animals, such as birds, each year.

As for keeping my cat happy, I have a cat tower for my cat which is kind of her own little kingdom when I am gone. Armakat makes cheap and amazing towers.

I have the house littered with toys, most of them she ignores since there are so many. And she ends up just wanting to play with bottle caps over expensive toys anyway. She does love to chase and bat around her stuffed mice though.

I spend about 30 mins to an hour a day just playing with her, using a feather chaser like this one which is probably the biggest contribution to her daily happiness and well being. The interactivity gives her an outlet to expend energy, and it creates a positive bond. It gives her something to hunt as well. Don't just have your cat chase the toy around, let them stalk it as you slowly move it from them. Chasing and killing is only one part of play, the actual stalking is a big part of it as well.

Cats lives are pretty much, sleep -> hunt -> kill -> eat -> groom -> repeat. With a bunch of pooping in between. If you are fulfilling all of those then your cat is probably very satisfied and will hopefully refrain from attempts at smothering you with their paws while you sleep. They'll still probably stick their butthole in your face every chance they get though.

First of all, let me say that you're doing a good thing. So many people abandon pets when they just don't fit into their ideal lifestyle anymore. It's easy to get jaded when you constantly see that. (So ignore downvotes- What's important is that you recognize the issue and are working to resolve it.) You're clarification does help.

Trying a different type of scratching post may work. For example, my current cat adores one made by Kong that has little rubber bristles like this, but he doesn't care for any other scratcher.

Another thought would be a cardboard ball chaser like this. Every cat (other than my current one) always loved to scratch these... plus, ball to chase. And, quite frankly, I've found babies/toddlers to be fascinated by the balls, too.

Plus, as you know, once they find a place they like to scratch- it can be very hard to break that habit. You can also try putting a sheet of tinfoil over the couch (where she likes to sharpen her claws) when you can't be there to monitor it.

The cat quiet space is a great idea! I'm sure she'll appreciate places that she can go to be alone with her kitty thoughts. (I've even used an upper cabinet above the refrigerator to give my cat a break from the children. He could reach it and survey the land, but the kids' couldn't touch him.) High spots are always good. Cats feel safe there and can see (and enjoy being with the family) without having to endure unwanted attention.

Maybe try some new toys?

I've been meaning to make a list of my cats' favorite toys. I have two cats, brother and sister, Millie and Smokey, now about 9 months old.

First, I can't explain it, but this carrot. I bought it on a whim at a pet store because it was on clearance and I thought it kind of looked like the Minecraft carrot and I thought it would be cute to see them playing with it. It comes with separate catnip container and you can fill the carrot with catnip, but I didn't use any. OMG, they go crazy for the thing. They get super possessive of it. If the other cat comes near, they'll growl and run away. Smokey likes to be chased when he has the carrot in his mouth. I lunge like I want to steak his carrot and he runs a few feet away, daring me to try to take it again. Millie will self-play with the carrot, batting it around on our hardwood floors. They've gone through two already. I think it's time to get a third.

Da Bird. It was recommended here and it's awesome. Something about the movement, the twirling, the colors, the noise. They can't ignore this thing. If the feather thing gets destroyed, replacements are available and cheap.

Cat Dancer 101. This is a stiff wire with some cardboard bits on one end. Move it and shake it a bit and I guess it looks like a flying insect. On the plus side, when they catch it, it's fairly easy to get them to release it.

Cat Dancer 301. This is Millie's favorite. She knows where I keep it and "leads" me to it at every opportunity. Like, first thing when I wake up and when I get home from work. It's a short stick with a long strip of fleece material. Wave it as you move in a circle and they're mesmerized. When they catch it, it's a bit difficult to get them to release it.

I have a puker. Things that really improved his pukeyness was a cat supplement that helps them with their gut. (Links below) Its advertised to help with poop issues, but will definitely help with puke issues as well.

You also need to make sure that there is NO grains in his/her food. Cats shouldn't have any grains in their food. Lots of cheap pet food use that as filler. Secondly, a lot of cheap food uses sub par ingredients. Check your cats food for chicken by product. It's bad for them. Its basically all the parts left over from taking the good stuff from the chicken. Wikipedia defines it as "It is made from grinding clean, rendered parts of poultry carcasses and can contain bones, offal and undeveloped eggs, but only contains feathers that are unavoidable in the processing of the poultry parts." Sounds pretty yucky, huh? You wouldn't eat it, so why should you feed it to your cat?
Crappy cat foods use a ton of fillers that are basically the equivalent to a bag of cheetos to humans.

Switch to a brand that is grain free and uses whole meats such as the wellness I linked below. Blue buffalo is also a good alternative. Do you feed your cat wet food? If not, try feeding a good wet food (Linked below). My cats love the core wellness wet food and really eating wet food is better than an all dry diet.

All this stuff is a little pricey, but its worth it in the long run. Taking him to the vet all the time is probably more expensive than switching to a better food. Do it slowly as well, like over a week or two.

Basically anything you can find in your grocery store's pet isle you shouldn't be feeding your pet. Its all junk. Even the "high end" purnia foods. Junk. I know purina makes a sensitive stomach formula for cats. I tried it and it didn't help my furry little puke machine at all. All these crappy foods don't really fill your cat up as much as a good food will so they will be hungrier more often because the quality of the food is just crap.

How I solved my cat puke problem was feeding them wet food in the morning and evening and leaving out a small bowl of dry food for them to snack on throughout the day. If your cat isn't really super hungry than they will eat a bit slower and that'll keep her from throwing up. Some cats don't handle the self regulating diet and instead just end up eating more food, so figure out if your cat(s) can handle grazing between wet food meals.

You can also try getting a cat water fountain and placing it somewhere separate from their water. Cats are weird and don't like their water near their food. Cats get most of their water from their food but having a flowing water source can really help them up their water intake. If cats don't get enough water they are prone to developing kidney and bladder problems. The Drinkwell Platinum Pet Fountain is really good. I have mine in my bathroom and my cats really enjoy playing with the water and getting their paws wet and licking them etc etc.

As for the stains, the stain remover I linked below is a god send. It's a good product that cleans up stains really well. It even does cat pee. I have light carpets and this stuff takes it right out and leaves no marks behind. It should even work on your old stains, you just have to leave it a little longer.

I know all this stuff adds up to a ton of money but its so worth it not to have to clean up cat puke all the time. I did a ton of research for my puke machine and he went from puking 3-4 times a week to puking maybe every 3 months and then its usually just a hairball. His coat also looked better and he was softer.

Let me know if you have any questions. I'd be happy to help you figure this out and field any more questions about how I solved my cats puke problems.

Wellness


Core Wellness Wet Food


Stain Remover


[puke helper](
http://www.amazon.com/Purina-Fortiflora-Feline-Nutritional-Supplement/dp/B001650OE0/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1368101518&sr=1-2&keywords=fortiflora)

Cat Nutritional Supplements

First thing you're gonna hear on this sub is get the boys checked by a vet. With cats urination issues are sometimes symptoms of very serious and sometimes fatal conditions. What you're also gonna wanna do is:

1. Make sure the litter box is frequently scooped (at least once a day). And the entire box should be emptied and refilled fresh at least every few weeks. The standard rule for the number of litter boxes required is the number of cats plus one. So in an ideal world they should have access to 3 litter boxes. If that's not gonna happen and they just have the one then it needs to be scooped VERY frequently. Try and position the litter box near a problem area. It can be moved once the problem has been resolved but it will make the retraining easier. You can add Litter Attract to the litter box and that will make it more tempting for them to use it.
   
   
2. Cats will pee in the same area. The spots they have peed in need to be cleaned with an enzymatic cleaner like Natures Miracle. Nothing else will work. Even if it looks clean and smells clean to you, the cats will still smell it.
   
   
3. If the cats are causing a ruckus at night then they need to be played with more. Get some interactive toys like the wands and play with them until they pant. A tired cat is a good cat.
   
   
4. Many people on this sub recommend and use feline pheromone spray/diffusers/collars. Feliway is the top brand. It can help problem cats calm down and be more comfortable.
   
   I'd also recommend you or your parents watch some videos on youtube by Jackson Galaxy aka the Cat Whisperer. This guy knows his stuff. Here's a few videos to get started:
   1
   2
   3

I also live in a two room apartment. Mine has access to every surface, but the food prep areas. I created a floor level, then a metre higher level. She can move across the space without touching the floor. I rent so it's a combination of little stools, boxes as tunnels, little cat bed on top of storage boxes, a pillow on my computer desk for her to sleep on. Make sure you use interactive toys and lots of play time. Set up little beds at windows with a view so they can watch cat tv (one of mine is a chest of draws with a blanket on top placed next to the window and I moved the curtain around the outside draws.

Have a look at harness training. Then you can take him out for a walk. I found this was a great way to calm mine when she was a kitten.

Foil is great to deter a kitten from doing something. When mine was that young all my walls and doors were covered in foil because she was starting to scratch at the walls. Hang your towels and place your toilet paper higher up and out of reach. Also look into a double side sticky tape, or http://www.amazon.com/Ssscat-PDT00-13914-SSSCAT-Cat-Training/dp/B000RIA95G. Consider getting a water fountain so he has fresh water. Allot of annoying kitten behaviour goes away when they find something else to play with.

I don't have any littler smells, but I scoop twice a day. I use a litter which is flushable and poos get flushed straight away. Invest in a blacklight as it can help find any urine or spraying in your house. Is he desexed yet?

When mine was that young her bed was next to the litter, due to having a small bathroom. I used a carrier with blankets inside. Which she continued to use as her safe spot for months after she was allowed out all night. She now uses the carrier to stand on and give me noise kiss while i am on the loo.

Keeping him indoors is truly the best decision you could make for him. He will live longer, be at a reduced risk for parasites and diseases, and the local wildlife will be safer.

• Make sure your cats are neutered and spayed. Intact animals naturally want to get out and mate.
  
  
• Schedule regular play time when the puppy is out in a secure fenced yard or on a secure tie-out, preferably with another person to supervise. The cat will learn that super fun play time happens inside while the puppy is out. Use a toy like the Da Bird and really wear them out.
  
  
• Harness train the cat and take him for walks when the puppy is out. Or schedule walks while the puppy is in if the cat wants alone time from the dog.
  
  
• Provide a variety of cat trees and perches. Try to turn a room into a cat haven with many lofty perches for them. Ideally they should be able to move all the way around the room without touching the floor. Cat Shelves make a great addition. This will give the cats an enriching environment to keep them occupied.
  
  
• Stay strong and don't give into his pleading.

First step is cleaning and vet. Take both cat's to the vet because sometimes this behavior is due to bladder infections, kidney issues, UTI's.. etc. It is essentially them saying "Hey something is wrong".

Get a good Enzymatic Cleaner and start scrubbing. Everywhere they have peed on the floor (or pooped). Buy or use a good scrub brush and some rubber gloves and just get it really good.

Next step is to clean out the litter boxes and put fresh litter in both (you really should have 2, 1 for each cat) but save some poop (just one scooped bit) from them and put it in the fresh one. It kind of helps them with association. Make sure the litter boxes are big enough for the cat's (1.5 cat lengths long and 1 cat length wide). Also make sure they are in low traffic areas of the house or covered (even kitties like privacy).

If none of this works then I honestly don't know what else to do. This is all the things I have done and they have worked in the past when we had kitties that had bathroom issues. Good Luck :)

This approach may take some time, but my cat eventually learned that if I am in the bedroom with the light off and fan on (its an oscillating one that makes a fairly strong humming sound), I am down for the night and it'll be at least a few hours before I come back. After a few weeks of this routine, he gave up on screaming outside my door. The bedroom is off-limits to him at all times, as well. If I'm in there with the light on, he will meow at me, because he knows I'm likely to come back soon.

Mine's a door-rattler, too - he can fit his paw in the crack under the bedroom door and wrap it around the door. To protect the bottom of the door from his claws, I put some rubber weatherstripping on it. For the floor, consider getting a protective film to put down where she usually scratches. Hardware stores sell them to use during painting / construction, and many of them are affordable and tear-resistant.

It may be inconvenient, but do your best to cat-proof the house so you can ignore her acting out with minimal collateral damage. Keep anything fragile in drawers or cabinets unless you're actively using it. Consider making the bedroom a no-cat zone and putting as many valuables as possible in there. Don't leave food or drinks unattended - if you have to step away, stick them in the fridge or a cabinet while you're gone.

Also consider an electronic toy that moves around or something more interactive that will keep her engaged at night or while you're busy without the need for a human to facilitate playtime. Here are a few ideas::

https://www.amazon.com/SmartyKat-Feather-Whirl-Electronic-Motion/dp/B00KQGRIKI/

https://www.amazon.com/Catit-Design-Senses-Circuit-Original/dp/B001LWRFW2

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WP7F8YC

https://www.amazon.com/Tower-Tracks-Track-Interactive-Petstages/dp/B00DT2WL26

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0714D3FDT?psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002DJ6XW

https://www.amazon.com/Hex-480-3030-Nano-Assorted-Styles/dp/B01B45AMIO/

Also, if she ignores the scratching post but loves to tear the crap out of your floor, she may prefer a horizontal scratcher. One wasted $30 scratching post later, I figured that out about my cat. Something like these would be worth a try:

https://www.amazon.com/Bergan-Turbo-Scratcher-Colors-vary/dp/B000IYSAIW - doubles as a toy

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009YQ5KJM/ - this one is nice because you can lay it flat on the floor, prop it up at an angle with the cardboard flap, or hang it from a doorknob to see which works best. Also comes with catnip to sprinkle inside it. These have corrugated cardboard surfaces and don't last as long as carpet or sisal rope, but my cat seems more satisfied with something he can actually destroy. He'll jump on it, attack it with his claws, then roll around in the bits he tore off. You will vacuum a lot of cardboard flakes off the floor as it starts to wear out, but for me it's worth the trouble. If you don't like the mess, you can buy this one to test whether horizontal, inclined, or hung against the wall works best, then invest in a similar style of scratcher made from more durable material. That was my plan, but he just loves this stuff so much I order one as an add-on every month when I buy litter.

Bummer. Firstly, congrats on your new kitty bud! Have you taken him to the vet to make sure he doesn't have any health problems?

Secondly, it's definitely not too late to change his behavior, but you'll want to nip this in the bud. I assume you've washed your bedding - does it still smell like pee at all? It's very important that all of the smell is gone so that your cat doesn't smell his old pee and think, "this is the place to go!" I've had problems with my littlest cat peeing inappropriately and we had good luck removing all traces of urine by combining an enzymatic based cleaner with a peroxide based cleaner and soaking the items over night.

As far as getting him to use the litter box, you may want to purchase some cat attract litter. It's expensive though, so I've typically mixed it half and half with my regular litter.

This is the part you're probably not going to like. Have you considered putting an open topped litter box (with cat attract litter) in your bedroom? It probably wouldn't have to be a permanent addition - normally, once a cat has gotten comfortable using a particular box you can move it a few feet every few days until it's where you want it.

Something else to consider is that cats don't usually pee/poop where they eat, sleep, or hunt. You could try giving him treats on your bed, or bringing him to bed with you at night, or using a laser pointer to play with him on the bed.

Hope this helps! This can be a very frustrating situation but try to have patience!

My cat is a real fatty and isn't into toys that much but he LOVES the Cat Charmer. It will have you and your kitty running around the whole house! Honestly one of the best toys I've ever tried. It's pretty cheap and the reviews are really good, highly recommend.

Wet food naturally has moisture so cats will drink less anyways.

After my cat had a urinary obstruction, I also switched to wet food. In addition, I add a little filtered water to their wet food to increase its moisture even more (like an 1/4 cup per can) and I got a pet fountain. The cats now have plenty of moisture in their diet, and while they do drink less than with wet food, I still see them playing with the fountain and licking water from their paws / drinking from it occasionally. I know you already have one, but I got this one and it's awesome and super easy to clean. Maybe it might be worth switching it up?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0037NKDSG/ref=zg_bs_2975263011_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=W5GYSRYZ2RJ9ZNBFDFKT

Also, don't keep your water directly next to the food supply- cats have a natural instinct to find clean water, and avoid water sources near their killed prey to minimize contamination. Try moving the water further away and see if it helps!

I'm so glad your cat is alright!

He's young so it'll take a while still I imagine. In order to keep him out of her bowl we would scold him forcibly, physically move him, and occasionally squirt him (though I don't think squirting is very effective on cats in my experience). The key is is simply consistency. He'll still occasionally try to steal her food but he's pretty good about it all in all.


A laser pointer can be fun for the cat but you should use other toys. When playing, cats get satisfaction from both the chase AND the the capture of toys. Since cats can't capture laser pointers it can get frustrating really quickly. All cats are different but my cats are both obsessed with this toy. I try to get both cats interested in it and alternate with them. It can take some practice (my wife sucks at engaging them with it) but I can pretty much always get my cats' attention with it and they always want to play.
http://www.amazon.com/Cat-Catcher-Teaser-Wand-Mouse/dp/B000LPOUNW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417628066&sr=8-1&keywords=go+cat+cat+mouse


Also, while moving definitely helped their relationship it was very stressful on both of them. Before moving I'd recommend you look up some tips about moving with cats and follow them too.

You don't say how old this kitten is. It's important to realize, kittens are not vicious. It's just what you said: "He wants to play." So go get a "DaBird" (http://amzn.to/2x1dpAG) toy and play the heck out of him. Play until he drops. Hunt, catch, kill, eat. That's the instincts of a kitten.

Keep him indoors, give him plenty of play, give him a window perch to get some fresh air and watch the goings on, and make sure not to 'play' with him with your hands. He will grow up thinking they are toys. And as they grow, they gain a lot more strength. If you wear him out with play on a regular basis, he will be a happy cat.

And Please do not scold him or abandon him. He's just being himself ... in other words, a cat. You don't want to give him a complex for doing something natural, you just want to look at his world through his eyes, and make it as happy as possible, while teaching him proper etiquette. :)

Not sure this is exactly the kind of thing you’ll want, and it’s right at that $50 cutoff, but I love this PetSafe feeder. It is battery operated and rotates through five vestibules. Works for either wet or dry food but I imagine wet would get rather crusty?? Anyway, we use it for weekends away because it’s perfect for covering two days with two feedings a day. You could easily refill it throughout the week though, to use it all the time. It’s especially helpful if you’re trying to only feed your pet a certain amount or monitor their food intake. The only downside is that it’s better for smaller animals probably—cats or smaller dogs. Or smaller food portions, anyway.

How often do you play with Finn? Does Finn have any type of routine with you in the evening?

Even though Finn has cat buddies, that doesn't mean he is entirely entertained by them 24/7. I would suggest dedicating a good 30 minutes to play time in the evenings, every day. Cats need to "hunt" every day. Finn sounds like he would really benefit from a cat toy like THIS.


Also, perhaps a different type of "watering hole". Cats like to think that they are drinking fresh water. Think about it like nature... cats in the wild tend to drink from bodies of water that are at least, slightly, moving. Still water breeds sickness. Maybe try THIS.

If those options don't work.. try the vet.

depends on if your wife is allergic to the cat itself or the dander. Dander you can sometimes get used to if it's the same cat (I'm allergic to cat dander and i've had cats my whole life. two weeks living with a cat and i'm acclimated to them and the allergies aren't bad.).

You can get a test at the doctor and talk to them about allergy shots or Rx-strength meds to take. Change your pillowcases often so she's not sleeping on a pile of cat fur and remember to wash your hands before touching your face/eyes.

Get a Furminator. It is the best de-shedding/brushing tool on the market. It takes off so much excess hair and dander and will help a LOT. Plus, cats LOVE getting brushed!

Febreeze has an allergen reducer spray. I can't verify how well it works and I wouldn't use it as the ONLY way to reduce allergies but it could be very helpful in certain areas like the bed or couch where the cat and your wife might share space consistently.

Invest in Lint Rollers to help keep fur off yourselves.

And know that there are certain times of year where your wife's allergies may flare up, regardless. I know mine do even though I've have the same cat for 9 years and my previous cat for 10. During the spring/fall I would be much worse than the rest of the time and had to amp up to claritin/benedryl.

I hope you can keep this wonderful kitty! And post pics!

Ok, there's the issue. Call your vet and see if you can get him fixed now. He's likely getting restless because he's maturing. He doesn't need to be 6 months to get fixed, it won't make him a "girly" cat if he gets fixed before that point.

Stop trying to "punish" him. Cats do not respond to punishment like a dog or a child would. They are more likely to see it as a game (avoid the water spray!, you holding him down = wrestling, etc.) or start to fear you if it hurts or makes them too uncomfortable. Putting him in "time out" in a bathroom or hallway is ok, but don't use his crate for this. It will just make him want to avoid it, making necessary trips, like to the vet, harder later on.

Another thing that may help is for you to make sure you are playing with them enough. Kittens require a ton of play time to burn off energy, and just letting them play and wrestle together won't be enough. You need to play with them using a wand style toy or playing "fetch" with them for at least 45 minute to an hour every day. They need to get running back & forth through your home and jumping after the toy at the end of the wand until they don't want to chase it any more and may even be panting a bit. Cats will also get a second wind after a bit, and a third, fourth and even a fifth sometimes, so don't give up the first time they do.

As for keeping him out of and off of things, try taping slightly rumpled foil or putting double sided tape on the counters when you aren't using them. There is also a device called a Sscat which is a great way to deter them from certain areas without you having to be directly involved, so they are less likely to develop a negative association with you specifically.

I used to get so mad about friends and guests using their hands to play with my kitten. Luckily, when the people she saw most often stopped using their hands entirely, she learned to play with toys that were meant for her instead.

Try big soft toys stuffed with catnip, or this thing. Those are basically the greatest hits among my six cats. Some of my cats like toys that twirl in the air, while others like it when they're dragged along the ground, so try lots of different ways to play. Cardboard scratchers with catnip rubbed in are another much-beloved toy.

As for training the people around you? Remind them that claws won't be cute when your cat is big and strong, and put a toy into their hands. Kittens who are trained to attack people are the same cats who end up in shelters as adults, because their owners are too scared of them! I'm sure your cat will be fine since he has you to look out for him, but things like this do happen.

Good luck!

I'd recommend you buy a Ssscat. I place mine right by the door facing perpendicular to the threshold so that if my cats want to come scratch the door/carpet right in front of the doorway, it triggers and scares them off. It's motion sensored to trigger a harmless blast of air. Should work perfectly. :)

In addition, it's great for keeping cats off counters or wherever else they shouldn't be. The downside is you do have to buy refills eventually, I feel like the fact that I can place it pretty much anywhere is worth it.

You definitely need to stick with some sort of reduced food regimen. I wouldn't be surprised if domesticated animals don't get how to hunt anymore... I mean, can YOU hunt down a moose for dinner? =)

Maybe you're switching up the food locations too quickly for him. You could try less random locations around the house to "hide" the food. Pick a few set locations. Take him to it at first. Make sure he remembers where they are. Then switch it up after he's getting it. It might take him a month to get it. Give him time. You may never be able to just randomize the locations without showing him.

Maybe try a food-dispensing toy like this or this or this - Edit: that last one seems to work the best, based on the reviews. Try looking locally or more internet search. But don't give him more than the 1/4 cup daily.

He might not recognized the wet food as food, or he doesn't like that brand. I'm not sure if it works to slowly add some wet food to his dry food to make him understand that it's still food.

See if he'll chase a wadded up paper ball or tin foil ball. Try to make him bring it back for a kibble =) See if he'll chase string. The idea is to try to make him run. A friend of mine had a cat that would chase a chain so I'd sit cross legged on the floor and drag it along the floor in a circle around my body. The cat would chase it around and around me while I kept switching it from one hand to the other.

It's been an unseasonably warm winter here so it's starting too.

The defurminator brush is really good for pulling loose hair. It's a robust grooming tool but even 2 minutes can get a handful of it.

Also for the super long haired coats, a groomer's comb is the best for separating the hairs down to the root and preventing mats.

I have four cats and those two tools along with a general slicker brush really help me manage. I had to shave down my maine coon due to gastrointestinal issues but still have two long haired cats and a short hair.

The best way to prevent doggy messes is to immediately start crate training. Get your dog used to the crate, and over time you can slowly let your dog have a bit more freedom in the apartment. And if he's out for play or hanging out then you have to supervise him and hopefully distract him and take him outside if you see him about to start his business.

You can get an odor/stain remover and have that handy for accidents. As far as killing the carpet, you have to let them know that there are better, more fun alternatives.

Zak George's Dog Training youtube channel is a good place to start learning, imo. But honestly, I can't stress crate training enough. You have to teach the dog where it's okay to go.

That cat sounds like he needs play and his own space.

Since you have no option but to live with this cat you could probably fix this behavioral problem yourself. Play the aggression out of him for about 10 to 15 minutes a day. (Play until he's tired.) You could use a laser pointer or something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Go-Cat-Catcher-Teaser-Mouse/dp/B000LPOUNW. (It should go without saying don't use your hands and teach the cat that hands are toys.)

If you can afford it, get some cat furniture near a window. (Or just make a space for him on a shelf near a window.)

Reinforce good things and good vibes whenever he's near you. Carry treats and give them to him. (Don't use your hands at first unless he's played out.) Slowly work up to petting him.

If there are other cats then it could also be anxiety about those cats. In that instance all of these things apply but the importance of establishing a safe territory (either with or without the other cats) becomes important.

For the meowing before his feeding, have you considered getting an automatic feeder? Right now he meows to wake you up because he associates your waking up with getting food. You might have to put up with meowing for a few more weeks though. Or if you don't want to get the feeder, you could spend 10-15 minutes doing your morning routine (change, brush your teeth, eat breakfast etc.) after waking up before giving them food, so they don't think that you getting out of bed = food. I do this with my cats and it has worked for me.

For the scratching, you can also try using an automated spray like this that sprays out a loud puff of air whenever your cat activates it and put it near the doorway where you don't want him to be.

As for the biting, I've never experienced that problem myself but it sounds as though your cat is bored. I've read that having structured play time with him is important.

And yes, cats can totally be trained! I'm working on clicker training my cats myself and you'd be surprised at how smart they are. :)

I have my kitty set up in the guest room. I too HAVE to conceal the litter box because my dogs love to have a kitty poop snack and they dig into the litter and make a huge mess on top of everything. The solution was to get two LACK side tables from ikea (7 dollars each) and cover them with fabric on all sides with a single opening large enough for Lily to fit through. Underneath, there is a high walled litter pan and we are using Precious Cat as our litter. It is completely odorless and low dust. I only start to smell the poopies if I slack on cleaning it for 2-3 days (I know! sorry)

Whenever we have a guest over, which is rare any way, I simply move the litter box to our bedroom. The tables stay in the guest room as part of the decor and they don't even realize it was a cat toilet moments ago. And when we have people over that aren't sleeping, I can easily close the door and it's completely out of sight. I can even leave the cat in there and she'll be perfectly happy until the guests go away. Good luck!

1. Showing the cat poop/pee and then placing him the litter box isn't going to make him use the litter box. In cat-brain, what connection would that make? How will he link the poop you're showing him with what you want him to do?
   
   You are simply showing him some poop (yup, that's poop), and then forcing him into an enclosed space against his will. i.e., he will learn to dislike being picked up, and he will associate the litter box with an unpleasant experience.
   
   Put the litter box where he's peeing now and get him used to using it every time. Then move it and him to an enclosed room for a day. Once he's using it regularly, he should remember this new location.
   
   To clean up urine odor: http://about.pricegrabber.com/search_attrib.php/topcat_id=30/form_keyword=Natures%20Miracle
   
   
2. You're teaching your cat to beg food from you while you eat. Your call if this is a behavior you want.
   
   
3. Cats and kittens can differ in their tastes, which can vary between individual cats as well. Try different treats until you find things you cat likes. Don't give too many treats - just like with people and donuts, too many is unhealthy.
   
   
4. I don't think there's an issue with him sleeping in your bed. Some people don't like it, but I don't expect you'll have luck making him sleep in his own bed if doesn't want to. You may be able to get him off your bed through many years of diligent effort.
   
   
5. Whatever toys he likes. Whatever you get, he'll like the packaging more than they toy, as a rule; with one exception: http://www.amazon.com/Bird-Cat-Toy-Easy-Store/dp/B000F9JJJE aka "bird on a stick"
   
   
6. As a cat, he's an obligate carnivore, and cannot taste sugar. He'll want milk, but too much will give him diarrhea.
   
   
7. Any time he touches it, shoo him. Don't spray water around electronics. Don't hit or punish him for being on the keyboard. Don't reward him for moving (i.e. train him to get on the kb when you use it, and then get down for food). Just pick up and move, right away. Don't
   
   
8. IME, make a high pitched whining noise to get the idea through to him that what he's doing hurts. Natural behavior with baby carnivorous animals is to play and play rough, but to freeze if something given an alarm cry/pain cry.
   
   
9. Sour apple tasting spray. Unless your cat like sour apple. Then something else non-toxic he doesn't like.
   
   
   All in all - think like a cat. Don't try and apply human characteristics or logic to him, he's a cat. Make him want to do the things you want him to do through steady, regular and patient rewards.

Window perches are great because then they can see outside and be entertained that way. Kind of like "cat tv". I would try to play with them for at least 20 min to a half hr every day. A variety of toys is always nice and its always good to have two or three sets of toys. Every week or so I gather all the current toys up and rotate them with toys that I keep in a plastic baggie with catnip.

This is, by far, my cats FAVORITE interactive toy. I actually have to put it out of sight when we're not playing because they'll seek it out and destroy the feathers.

https://www.amazon.com/GoCat-Cat-Feather-Assorted-Colors/dp/B000F9JJJE

Here's a list of the protein/fat/carb content of most commercially available wet foods for reference: http://catinfo.org/docs/FoodChartPublic9-22-12.pdf

Shoot for a carb content under 10%. It doesn't have to be super expensive--Fancy Feast classics (and kitten feast) are low carb. The calorie column of the chart could also help you find something that has more calories for their growing bodies without too much volume in their stomachs.

I bought an autofeeder that works with wet food, and it has been a lifesaver for making sure my cat gets smaller, more frequent meals even when I'm at work or sleeping. She tends to get sick if she eats too much at once or goes too long without eating. Here's a link: https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-5-Meal-Automatic-Pet-Feeder/dp/B000GEWHNS/

Good luck; hope the little ones feel better soon!

A few more thoughts:

While she remained wary of us, she still liked to play.

Toys she liked are the Cat Dancer and the Cat Charmer and Da Bird.

She got so focused on the toy, she forgot I was there. Then she'd suddenly realize she was about a foot away from me and she'd panic just a little.

Now when she wants to play she leads me to the closet where we keep those toys.


A catnip blanket might be useful too. We got ours at a craft fair, but they are on ebay and Amazon too. It's a small 12"x18" blanket with catnip inside. This gets her so happy and relaxed. It's part of my plan to get her comfortable on my lap.

I don't have an issue with a $45 pet gate. The pet gate in particular, if you read the post, is only an issue because my family members who have grown up on a farm and taken care of dozens of animals think I would be babying the cat by placing these protective measures. Since I am living in their house at the moment, it would be a little difficult to override, but not impossible. The first thing I am going to do upon getting the cat is indeed to bring it to the vet.

To give an example of what an appropriate expense is (to me), I've already bought this water bowl for her. It's $42, but I would be willing to do this to prevent her from getting UTIs or anything else associated from dehydration. No one would comment on it, because it's unobtrusive. The gate on the other hand, cordoning off places that people actually walk through, is going to bring me a lot of trouble. As I've already stated, it's trouble I'm willing to deal with. They are not unreasonable people, but there is a cultural difference.

All I am asking is what the best option in this type of situation seems to be, since most of the advice I've researched on the internet seems to be directed at adult or baby kittens; not 6 month old cats. (Somewhat in between?)

If she got sick, there would be no expenses spared. I am well within my means to support a cat.

Which other part of the story sounds like an unideal environment? Why do you feel that I am rushing it? I am genuinely concerned; please do not take these questions as a defensive retort.

Do you feel that based on what you read, I should not be adopting a cat at all?

The purpose of the original topic was to ask whether or not I should seclude the cat: if anything an answer to this question in particular would be deeply appreciated.

ALSO it just occurred to me, would a pet gate even keep in a six month old cat?

The only thing that gets my cats worn out is the wand toy "Da Bird" http://www.amazon.com/GoCat-Apart-Feather-Assorted-Colors/dp/B000F9JJJE/. Amazon sells it cheap and I've seen it in a few of the more local shops. This specific one because it has a longer string and the attachments actually get them going(our fatty loves the mouse one, he goes WILD for it and we will run it up and down the hall and he chases it), unlike those feather boa wands and such. They are pretty cheap too and last a decent amount of time if you dont let your cat have the bird when you are done. I've never seen our cats jump higher!

You will probably have to play with him, give him a little break, and then bust it out again and play until he just won't get up anymore. Play with him SUPER hard before bed time and then feed him after. He should take a bit of a nap and be tired.

get some toys that move by them self, like these:
https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Bolt-Interactive-Laser-Cat/dp/B0021L8W6K/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=auto+cat+laser&qid=1550416273&s=gateway&sr=8-6

or

https://www.amazon.com/Zenes-Butterfly-Cat-Toy-Replacement/dp/B07B4XGY1Z/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=cat+butterfly+toy&qid=1550416295&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1


also, continue giving the cat treats and petting her or kissing her once in a while so she knows that you still love her :)

i’ve totally been there. i cried everyday when our house had them because i couldn’t stand feeling so filthy and thinking they were EVERYWHERE.

Vet Kem Siphotrol Plus II Premise Pest Control Spray, 16-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KVSTC0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ypQIDbV80R6FT

we bug bombed with ours, which was the only thing that gave me peace of mind. you and kitty have to go somewhere else for a few hours, and all the other instructions, ofc. our foggers weren’t 100% effective. but i’ve heard good stuff about the spray i just linked lol. better reviews than any others i’ve seen.

i doubt your house is anywhere near an actual infestation but i think you’d also enjoy being able to sleep at night.

I'm a fan of garbage toys - things that normally get tossed or recycled. Easiest is a toilet paper roll, or a tissue box (cut holes in the sides and pop a tin foil ball in).

Of course, heading to a pet store and grabbing a cheap pack of toys and tossing them around. Not all cats like the same kind of toys, but if you see something like this, I 100000% recommend. Pretty cheap, tons of life, easy to play with, and I haven't met a cat yet that hasn't played with it. I actually have to hide mine from the cat, as she won't stop playing with it and exhausts herself.

Find where that cat pee smell is coming from—the sooner the better. Make sure to clean whatever it is with an enzymatic cleaner (I've had good luck with this). Otherwise, the scent can really set in, and it can be hard to get cats to stop peeing in a spot that smells like their bathroom.

Also: make sure you have enough litter boxes (maybe put an extra one near where she peed).

There are some automatic toys you could try, like Cat's Meow

That's their TV ad, but it's in a bunch of stores around me, too. Growing up, my cat's favorite toy was just a ball stuck in a plastic ring that he could bat around. It would spin around the ring, so he'd catch it and bat it the other way. It was kind of loud, so we just kept it away from the bedrooms. My cats now just love anything red and fluffy that they can toss around.

If you google interactive cat toys, there's a few things that could work, depending on whether or not you want something that takes batteries. Something he could climb on with different things to bat at might be good for your cat. And don't underestimate their love for boxes and paper bags (no handles!).

Here's the one I have and I've been very happy with it. There are plastic parts inside (the pump and its housing), but I wash everything about once a week or every other week and that takes care of any junk in there. The housing is dishwasher safe so that makes cleaning that part easy.

Try using more interactive toys and taking time to play with him every night. I recommend Da Bird very highly.

Does he have a window with a good perch to look out of? That's pretty important to have. Cat trees can also really help.

Keep in mind too that cats get the zoomies at night and that is just part of the experience.

Sometimes things changing can make cats poop outside of their litter boxes - has anything happened in the house that has changed? Baby, new person, other cat, etc.?

Also, I know it seems weird but with cats with a history of not-using-litter, vets are starting to prescribe Fluoxetine (Prozac), so you may want to discuss that with your vet in case it may make a difference.

It's best to keep the litter box in the same places - quiet places that are away from the normal pathways of people. You could even try a top-entering litter box, like this one: CleverCat. This would create his own little confined poop area.

Keep us posted! Let us know if you have any more questions.

Alrighty, there seem to be some people here with the same questions so I will try my best to give a decent answer based my vast experience with cats and cat health care.

First the simple one. If your cat is peeing (not pooping) outside of the box then you need to rule out UTI first. There is no point in reading any further. UTI will make your cat pee outside the box because it starts to associate the pain from peeing with the box.

Now to continue, your cat is pooping outside of the box or all medical problems have been ruled out.
This happens when the cat is in mental distress. Cats can get depression and anxiety just like us human can and one way for them to express that is to take a big steamy smelly shit right in the middle of your sofa, bed, carpet.
If your cat does this, its trying to tell you something and that is that he or she is very unhappy. He/she might look her normal self but underneath that cute face is a ticking timebomb.

So your cat is unhappy, now what? It is still very important to have anything medical ruled out. Just take your cat to the vet for a general check up and mention that he poops outside of the box.
After he/she got a clean bill of health you can start to take action inside your home depending on the cause.

1. Increase the amount of litter boxes, if you normally have open top, try placing a closed top and vice versa. Also experiment with different litter. Your cat is unhappy, she could have suddenly decided to develop a deep hatred for her litter box. Cats are mysterious creatures, don't ask why they hate something, it probably looked at them funny.
   Just because you always had the same litter and box does not mean your cat didn't woke up one day and decided enough was enough and he/she isn't taking it anymore.
   
   
2. Your cat could be in distress because something changed. Maybe you moved, maybe you added a new addition to the family. Maybe instead of yellow roses you bought red ones. Either way something changed and your cat does not like it at all.
   Cats are creatures of habit and like things just the way they are, if you mess with that they might surprise you with a steamy pile of crap.
   Now of course I understand you can not simply return your baby to the baby store. So what to do now?
   A Feliway plug really goes a long way and I would really recommend it to anyone who has cat troubles.
   Unfortunately just plugging in some pheromones in a wall socket is not going to do the trick on its own. It will make things easier but you still have to do the hard work.
   It is very important! that your cat has ways to get high up. Bookshelves, cat tree's, anything that is high so he can look down upon his/her kingdom and feel safe. This will go a very long way in giving back your little princes his or her self esteem back.
   Also, and this really is the magic trick, you will have to play with your cat. Cat are hunters and even though they come in cute little packages now, deep inside of them hides a sadistic little killer. Letting this killer out and have its way with a feather or toy mouse goes a long way in making your tiger feel whole again. I suggest playing with your panther at least 20 minutes a day, active interacting play where you make him/her chase something on full speed and jumping over things. I suggest using something like this http://www.amazon.com/GoCat-Apart-Feather-Assorted-Colors/dp/B000F9JJJE have not met a cat yet that could resist Da Bird!
   
   Step one and 2 are just the basic things to cover and usually when they are followed the problem will resolve itself.
   
   If you have any specific question then just ask way, I am happy to answer them in any way i can.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   

If you get a second cat you've got to name it Tomato.

​

No advice on whether or not to get a second cat, but on entertaining your cat when they're home alone:

-Leave the TV on Animal Planet

-Get some treat balls or puzzles to hide in different places around the house every day

-Rotate which toys are out instead of having them all out at once. That way they stay new and exciting.

-Get your kitty some nice window perches so she can look out the window.

For my one cat we bought her a stool that wad about counter height so she could watch what was going on and out worked. To train her, when we caught her on the counter we would place get on the stool and praise her. Other times i would place her on the stool and give her a treat. She quickly learned the stool was hers and she was happy.


My other cat was not so easily trained. For him we had to get SSScat spray. It's motion activated and sprays an air blast. A couple of these and your cat won't be back. http://amzn.com/B000RIA95G


If all else fails they do sell scat mats which give a mild shock when a cat walks on it. It sounds mean but the highest level is like a static shock. It did work. I had to use this for my smartest cat when everything else failed. http://amzn.com/B0007NWNM8


I find these things work better because they work whether you are there or not. All you cat has currently learned is he can't be on the counter when someone is in tha room. You didn't say anything about being on the counter when you are not in the room :)

2 months old? And you are wondering how to "tame" him?! I rescue cats, mostly kittens and there is only one way to "tame" a rambunctious kitten-PLAY WITH HIM! Wear him out. He is a little body with all of this energy that he needs to get out...he is doing what every kitten does if someone doesn't play with them...he knocks over plants, he tears stuff up, he is a terror. Find some toys that are interactive for when you are not there but play with him twice a day for 15-20 minutes or more. I recommend a laser pointer for playtime with him. That wears a kitten out more than anything.

Use a spray bottle, squirt him when he does something you don't want him to do-BE CONSISTENT and don't let him see it come from you. You want him to think...gee, everytime I step on this table, water comes from somewhere and I don't like it. If he knows it comes from you, when you aren't there he will do it.

Here are some toys I like to use for these little guys.

http://www.amazon.com/FroliCat-BOLT-Interactive-Laser-Pet/dp/B0021L8W6K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1290270627&sr=8-1

http://www.amazon.com/Bergan-Turbo-Scratcher-Colors-Vary/dp/B000IYSAIW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1290270627&sr=8-4

http://www.amazon.com/SmartCat-3833-Peek---Prize-Pet/dp/B0006VMN4O/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1290270627&sr=8-7
Only use this one under your supervision since he's so small...I have had a kitten get their head stuck and it took a vet to get her out after putting her under anesthetic and using a saw to cut her out.

http://www.amazon.com/Cat-Mouse-Powered-Toy/dp/B000633WZG/ref=sr_1_23?ie=UTF8&qid=1290270645&sr=8-23

http://www.amazon.com/Petmate-Crazy-Circle-Interactive-Large/dp/B0002AT5AO/ref=sr_1_49?ie=UTF8&qid=1290270658&sr=8-49

http://www.amazon.com/SmartCat-3832-Ultimate-Scratching-Post/dp/B000634MH8/ref=pd_sim_k_18


Also, do you realize that he will be this way for a few more months? Don't play with him using your hands (he will think they are toys and might bite you) and get him a scratching post. He is at the point, if he is two months old, that he can be neutered as well.

Good luck

My cat was not all that happy with a water dish but would drink because it was available...he's not the type to drink from a water glass.

I got him a pet fountain and he loves it. It filters and circulates water so it stays fresh and it keeps quite cool.

Maybe that would be a solution for your kitty? As to what your aunt said, I don't keep his fountain in a separate room from his food (they're in the same corner of my kitchen), and he doesn't seem to mind.

If you're going to stick with a bowl, I'd recommend using ceramic, stainless steel, or glass; cats don't tend to like plastic bowls.

We have resolved to play with jack more. He's a machine though. He has a metric shit ton of energy. Right now we mostly use this thing to play with him because he absolutely loves it. We also have one of these but he is hit or miss on it. Do you have any suggestions for interesting fun toys?

Truthfully, I've never used a litter attractant, I just know it's a thing that exists - the animal shelter I work at sells a small assortment of basic pet supplies, and litter attractant is one of the products we sell. I am pretty sure this is the one we sell. It's got a 4-star rating on Amazon and mostly positive reviews, although there's a vocal minority for whom the product didn't work. Seems like it would be worth a try, at least, and if it doesn't work, at least it's not terribly expensive, at $12 for 20 oz.

No worries, I'd be concerned too if it were my cat.

One of my cats does this, the other doesn't. We kept the regular water bowl but got them a Drinkwell Platinum and they both love it and drink more. The vet encouraged us getting this anyway because the one who smacks at the water was having problems with not getting enough water in his diet and therefore was getting UTIs. This seems to be better overall for their health. My boyfriend's Mom also got her cats this one and they won't go near it. I guess it depends on your kitty.

Here's the link for the one we got:
https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Drinkwell-Platinum-Pet-Fountain/dp/B000L3XYZ4

Walking is an excellent idea, particularly for an active breed like a manx!

I would also suggest a few extra things :

• interactive feeding toys. She will have to use her brain to get food out of a toy, and that will make her less bored and get some energy out. Just be sure to adjust her regular feedings so that she isn't getting extra calories, or even replacing the food dish with an interactive toy or interactive dish.
  Example 1 .example 2
  
• The SSSCAT training aid these work well to set boundries within the house for some cats. You could consider placing these next to your vents.
  
• Try to wear her out mentally and physically. I'm betting she would probably be a good cat to try to clicker train to do tricks. Clicker training can be excellent physical and mental stimulation. It sounds weird to train a cat and I've never done it with mine, but I see people who do it all the time online. Karen Pryor (she popularized clicker training) has a ton of cat training tutorials.
  
• This tape : Sticky Paws can be put on the slats of your vents. Most cats don't like the sticky feeling on their paws and will stop messing with what you put on them....this didn't work for my cat. My cat just licks the tape.

I only have the one cat, however, I've had this one for years. It runs on 4 C batteries (which I've only ever changed once) and you can program it for one or more feedings per day. It also says it's good for both wet and dry food, though I've only tried it with dry because I feed her a 1/2 can every night and the dry is for mid-day snacking. They're not too expensive assuming you'd need a few at least but I love this thing and I can vouch that it's worked well for years.

PetSafe 5-Meal Automatic Pet Feeder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GEWHNS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TsQCzb19VFYXD

So there are these things called Soft Claws. They are little nail caps that you glue on your cat's nails to prevent them from damaging things when scratching. They work great!

If they are worried about him jumping on counters, there is this motion detect compressed air thing called SSSCat training aid. These are really great for keeping cats away from things you really don't want them to stay away from. I always use one for the Christmas tree. No kind of training will keep my cats away from the temptation of a Christmas tree! So these would really be useful for things that your cat is absolutely forbidden to jump on.

A good cat climber near a window in the common areas will reduce his interest to scratch up stuff as well.

Bambi used a covered litter box for a couple months but I recently took it off because I felt it would be quicker to clean. I have no problem with odor and I live in a 520 Sq. Ft. 1 bedroom apartment and her litter box is right outside my bedroom. It may be easier to just try to control the odor instead of getting him used to the covered box.

I use Precious Cat Ultra Premium Clumping Cat Litter and will sprinkle in ARM & HAMMER® Cat Litter Deodorizer Powder when I first replace her litter. Good luck.

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-PDT00-13914-SSSCAT-Spray-Deterrent/dp/B000RIA95G

and

https://www.amazon.com/XFasten-Anti-Scratch-Training-2-5-Inches-Single/dp/B07663ZWRZ/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1540400458&sr=1-4&keywords=double+sided+tape+for+cat+scratching

has helped save our furniture. The Ssscats actually work so well we don't even need to fill them anymore, the cats just need to see them to stay away.

Two weeks may not be enough. Worst case scenario you can get a behaviorist to come visit too.

Good luck.

My cat's favorite toy up until recently was just a simple cat dancer toy - she'd get excited by it and play with it. However, I recently made a 'toy' out of an old sock stuffed with catnip. She'd also get excited and bat that around the room...

The clincher was tying the sock to the end of the cat dancer - it's simply ridiculous. She'll be panting after chasing it for upwards of twenty minutes, and then meow constantly at me if I stop playing with it! Such a cheap and effective toy!

SSSCAT is a pretty awesome product. We used it on our counters and a deterrent from the christmas tree. We got this product in our first apartment with our kitty and it worked well. What is nice is its sensored. So we can have it on at night when we can't see her and scold her.

Keep your door closed. He won't get in.

For counters if your roommates have a cat tower, keep it close to the counters. That's his space. Cats are curious (or hungry) and want to see what's up (or can they eat that). When he's got his own thing to hang out and observe what's going on on the counters, he won't be inclined to be on the counter tops. If he stays on the cat tree, he gets treats.

If you want to keep him off the counters even when you're not watching, then get one of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RIA95G or put double sided sticky tape on the counter tops.

Your best bet is to feed him his meals in some sort of food puzzle.

I alternate my scarfing stray between these:

Food Tree

Fun Board

Treat Ball

And then sometimes I feed him pellet by pellet by literally just throwing his food down the hall for him to chase. He loves this, it gets him some exercise, and it forces him to eat much more slowly.

we had issues with our cats climbing between the shower curtains and scratching it up so we bought this and it made a world of difference. The only challenge is to not trip the eye yourself or you get an unexpected puff of air.

this is also a good thing to consider when he gets a bit older.


Good luck!

We had the same issue and a combination of three things worked with us.

1. Enzyme Eliminator: http://www.amazon.com/Professional-Strength-Stain-Odor-Eliminator/dp/B00CKFL93K. I had success with Nature's Miracle as well.
   
   
   
2. S-Coe (the most amazing remove any odor eliminator in the entire world you can seriously bathe a skunk in this stuff!): http://www.scoe10x.com/
   
   
   
3. Scent Masker (this stuff is amazing, but get the Heavy Duty or the black label only): http://febreze.com/en-us/products/products-by-type/noticeables

Dr. Elsey's Precious Cat Ultra Cat Litter. That stuff clumps like a rock and smells nice - controls odor without being loaded with perfume. Minimal dust, too.

I avoid plastic. It can cause cat acne, and a plastic fountain will never really be clean. I used to have a white ceramic one but it was hard to keep clean. I switched over to this and love it.

Use the Furminator.

I am using [this one] (http://www.amazon.com/FURminator-Long-deShedding-Large-102004/dp/B0040QS3PO/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1406428657&sr=1-3&keywords=furminator) and it works beautifully on all three of my medium / short - haired cats. The amount of fur you get with that tool is staggering. I had brushed them before and still had "hair everywhere" issues like you; when I used the Furminator, it became clear that brushing isn't getting the job done.

there are 2 toys that were listed in Amazon as foolproof for this very thing.

One is Cat Dancer

The other one I can't find. It is a wand with a thin wire that cats cannot see, on the end is the worlds tiniest mouse. And they are both ranked incredibly high for cat interaction and interest.

My experience is that they both actually work. My cat is known for watching me play with her toys too

I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Clevercat-77000-Top-Entry-Litterbox/dp/B0002ZS20I

It's another covered box. I know you mentioned that your other cat will pee on the cover. Hopefully they won't with this one. Works well for 1 of my cats who likes to raise her butt up when she pees. It used to spray outside the box sometimes. This covered one solved all of my problems with high sprayers. I believe it's also cheaper from Walmart if you're interested in saving a few bucks.

First, what is the good food you are feeding? Does it have grain? Try a very plain and simple diet of chicken/pea, or rabbit/potato and see if a limited ingredient diet like that helps. Look for something with one protein and one carb source. Also, try giving her tiny amounts at a time, as it sounds as though she is eating too fast, or she has a lot of food in her tummy when she plays. This is a great option for limited feeding. It holds a good amount of food but makes the cat work for it and only lets out a small amount at a time.

I've used a number of puzzle toys, usually for treat delivery. I've found these two to be the best:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018CG40O/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/TRIXIE-Pet-Products-4590-Activity/dp/B001O8L2UO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496110405&sr=8-3&keywords=cat+puzzle+feeder

One is a ball-style one, one is an "activity center".

Have you looked into Top Entry litter boxes? Not sure if that would work for your space, but they work great keeping EVERYTHING in. Litter too, since the cats have to jump out, there's less tracking!

http://www.amazon.com/Clevercat-77000-Top-Entry-Litterbox/dp/B0002ZS20I/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1376024305&sr=1-1&keywords=top+entry+litter+box

I bought an automatic feeder for my cats years ago when they were eating all their food at once and then bugging me for more. I like this one because you can set it to feed them when you want to up to five times a day. So long as you measure the amount of food in each dish you shouldn't have to worry about over feeding them. Now my cats can tell time, and the only time they whine at me for food is when I forget to refill the dish. It wouldn't work for wet food very well, but it's great for dry food.

I use this one for dry food, works great :) I've had it for 2-3 years now! It holds five meals.

I'm a bit confused why you think I'm suggesting a litter box every few feet but OK, I get litter boxes and babies don't go together. I would suggest adding a second litter box next to the first one if you have room. Just to see if it helps.

Try this enzyme cleaner:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002XJ11E/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER


Dr elseys does have an additive. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000PKUUU0/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1457157309&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=dr+elseys&dpPl=1&dpID=41jPhnsvrOL&ref=plSrch

My cats have had UTIs before and we switched them to Hills c/d wet food. We also have a water fountain for them which encourages them to drink more water. Here’s the link for the one we have, it’s great: https://www.amazon.ca/Pioneer-Pet-Stainless-Fountain-Raindrop/dp/B0037NKDSG?th=1&psc=1

My cat was like that when we first got her--absolutely nothing would deter her from trying to climb up the tree. Had to resort to putting three or four of these ( https://www.amazon.com/Innotek-PDT00-13914-Ssscat-Spray-Kit/dp/B000RIA95G ) around the base of the tree to prevent her from getting to it. Worked pretty well.

I have not used that product, but I have used Cat Attract litter and it worked well. When we first took in our younger cat, she was a stray kitten with a bladder infection and was peeing everywhere. We used this litter to train her to the box and it was very helpful.

If your cat doesn't seem like he likes playing, try Da Bird as a cat toy. I've never seen a cat who doesn't become obsessed with playing with this thing. It's like crack.

An interactive feeder like this: PetSafe SlimCat Meal-Dispensing Cat Toy, Great for Food or Treats https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018CG40O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WnPYBbTYRJWQX

Here's a suggestion. Pretty much any enzymatic cleaner from a pet place should work though. A lot of regular cleaners contain ammonia, which only attracts them more. The enzymes "eat" the ammonia molecules so they aren't there anymore.

These are my favorite toys to exercise my cat: 1, 2, 3. We also play a lot of fetch with toy mice and ponytail holders, which is nice because it doesn't require my full attention; I pile up a stack of them to throw while I watch TV, make dinner, etc. When I'm lazy I just sit on the stairs and run the wand up and down as far as my arm reaches and she runs up and down chasing it until she's exhausted.

This one is also popular though I haven't tried it myself.

You should take the cat to the vet to rule out the possibility of a UTI. My cat did the same thing (due to stress) and we were also told to buy this to attract the cat to the litter box. I would also make sure to clean the litter box every day or even get a second one to put in another room.

Not only your cat but you too will be fascinated watching the birds. You might need one-way mirror film on the window behind the feeder so the birds won't see your cat.

For you to play with your cat when you are home, nothing tops Da Bird.

No worries. One last thought...

• if his sleep patterns have changed, he could be waking up to spend more quality time with you. When I lived in a city my ex's cat did this so we'd come home to a hyper friendly cat. It was a sign of loneliness/boredom. We got her some expensive interactive toys that worked for her play pattern and no more cat on head!
  
  Best toy:
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000F9JJJE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1413409428&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40
  
  Feliway and help insecure cats but it is a bit like drugging the problem away.
  
  If yr cat has been declawed then normal litter hurts.
  
  If older, monitor water drinking for diabetes.
  
  
  Good luck!
  

I agree with everyone else about having some intense play time before bed. If that still doesn't help you can look into getting something like ssscat spray to deter him from messing with the door.

I don't recommend a large bowl of food, that will lead to over-eating and when my cats get a little too much dry they tend to vomit it back up when it expands a bit in their stomach. Also that's how people get obese cats and that is very unhealthy. A high quality food that costs more now should save you in the years down the road when you're not paying for vet bills as a result of poor diet.

Just feed him before you leave and when you get back. Leave some toys out, even some balled up pieces of paper are fantastic toys.

Also consider getting a cat water fountain like this one. I have it and it lures the cats in to drink more because of the moving water which is a natural attractant.

I'm not sure why you want to moisten his food. His teeth will be fine chewing kibble.

However, you would probably do better with something like this for wet food.

another option could be a puzzle feeder like this

or this

you can also make your own puzzle feeders from cardboard tubes or plastic water bottles

ETA: I use an automatic feeder for my cat's breakfast. The neat thing about it is that they come to associate food with the machine and not you directly, so they beg less (and don't wake me up at 4am to eat)

Definitely invest in a top-entry litter box. You can just take the top off and your cat should be ok to use it. We tried this with my cat and it made a world of difference.

My cats enjoy something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Bergan-Turbo-Scratcher-Cat-Toy/dp/B000IYSAIW

I also have a puzzle feeder so they can work for their food.

He might be one of those cats that likes aerated water. Have you thought of getting him one of these as it may help as everyone also has said.

You should try using Precious Cat Litter. It's unscented, clumps well, and is highly effective at controlling odor. I have two cats and it's the only brand I will buy.

Do you have space for a cat tree? There's also boatloads of interactive toys that can be programmed or they can entertain themselves with like:
https://www.amazon.com/FroliCat-BOLT-Interactive-Laser-Pet/dp/B0021L8W6K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480531055&sr=8-1&keywords=auto+cat+laser

https://www.amazon.com/SmartyKat-Loco-Motion-Automated-Activity/dp/B000N9W7HW/ref=sr_1_sc_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480531069&sr=8-3-spell&keywords=auto+cato+toy

>5) Whatever toys he likes. Whatever you get, he'll like the packaging more than they toy, as a rule; with one exception: [2] http://www.amazon.com/Bird-Cat-Toy-Easy-Store/dp/B000F9JJJE aka "bird on a stick"

I got one of these, never seen my cats go so nuts for a toy. It's a must have for $10.

This is the one I have, it works pretty well

My cat is a bird hunter too. She'll only play with things that we can lift or move--no balls/laser light/toy mice/anything.

Try fishing toys with feathers on them, especially ones on plastic tubing that can bounce. She also likes this.

With 3 cats, I offer you should using some fountain capacity more than 70 oz.

Here is some best idea for your cats:

• PetSafe Drinkwell Multi-Tier Dog and Cat Water Fountain 100 oz - https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Drinkwell-Multi-Tier-Fountain-Drinking/dp/B0056ASTES/
  
• PetSafe Drinkwell Platinum Cat and Dog Water Fountain with Carbon Filter, 168 oz - https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Drinkwell-Platinum-Water-Fountain/dp/B000L3XYZ4/
  
  You can read full the article I just done here: https://pawsometalk.com/best-cat-water-fountains/
  
  ​

Cats generally don't like drinking water that's next to their food. If applicable, moving the water bowl might help.

You could also buy a water dish that has a little fountain in it (like this one). Supposedly cats really like them.

You could get one of those water fountains for pets. Like this: http://www.amazon.com/Drinkwell-FWB-RE-Original-Pet-Fountain/dp/B00063446M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369935306&sr=8-1&keywords=pet+fountain

A lot of cats like to drink from running water.

This has worked WONDERS on our stubborn little jacka...er....our lovely little feline friend.

http://www.amazon.com/Ssscat-PDT00-13914-SSSCAT-Cat-Training/dp/B000RIA95G

Revolution is the best flea product I have ever used on my cat. There isn't a whole lot of medicine in the tube and it dries fairly quickly. Good luck! I know how frustrating that can be.

http://www.amazon.com/Siphotrol-Premise-Control-Spray-16-Ounce/dp/B000KVSTC0
I had a really bad flea infestation about three years ago. I got some Revolution and sprayed anything fabric and my carpets with the Siphotrol and I haven't had an issue since. I have five cats and live in a very humid area for reference.

My cat loves this $2 toy the most.

For the litter tracking problem I'd recommend a top-loading litter box or just buy a large plastic bin and carve a hole out of the top if you're handy with tools. This almost completely eliminated the litter tracking problem in my house with two cats.

As for spilling water, I would suggest getting a heavier ceramic water bowl with non-slip feet and placing it on a feeding mat. You could even invest a pet water fountain like this one (which are large and virtually impossible to knock down) if you find that your cats enjoy running water more than standing water.

Our vet recommended ovitrol and siphotrol as a quick way to clear them out because one of my cats was allergic. Worked really well.

Have you considered a foraging toy with a few treats in it between meals? Something she can knock around to get treats out of? It might help distract her from the plastic. Something like this.

Top entrance box may help with mess..

http://www.amazon.com/Clevercat-77000-Top-Entry-Litterbox/dp/B0002ZS20I

Jackson Galaxy is a good resource for re-directing aggressive behaviour. Personally the best decision we ever made with our cat was to buy Da Bird. Our cat goes crazy for it. https://www.amazon.com/GoCat-Feather-Cat-Assorted-Colors/dp/B001BOVEU4. You can buy cheap refills on Amazon as well once your cat destroys the first one.

Get a water fountain, cat's like running water as stagnant water can be bad.

I have the PetSafe Drinkwell Platinum Pet Fountain My guys love it

Yup, that's probably what is happening. Get an enzymatic cleaner. Something like this.

I travel a ton for work and my 3 are just fine. I have this feeder and the only issue I have with it is that it doesn't retain the programming so when the batteries die (I'm getting 6-7 months on real batteries, rechargeable batteries don't last very long) you have to reprogram it :
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0096EBG3G/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and this water fountain:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000L3XYZ4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I can go 10+ days but the water becomes an issue (so I have a second one if I'm going to be gone longer). They tend to be a little standoffish when I first get back but I haven't seen any long term issues. You should be plenty good for a 5 day trip.

Have you tried several litters? This one might help. It has good reviews on amazon for troublesome kitties.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Precious-Cat-Attract-Problem-Training/dp/B0009X49IC

Da bird original spins in a way that make cats go nuts. It's always my gift for new cat owners.

https://www.amazon.com/GoCat-Cat-Feather-Assorted-Colors/dp/B000F9JJJE

if you can't keep him out of the kitchen, I really recommend this:

http://www.amazon.com/Ssscat-PDT00-13914-SSSCAT-Cat-Training/dp/B000RIA95G

It's just a can of compressed air with a motion detector on it. She can put it anywhere where she wants him not to be. I use this at my house to keep my cats off the table/counter.

Alright I'm going to be completely honest here. I live in a studio apartment. I haven't cleaned my cat's box in... 13 days. It's getting done tomorrow morning, okay?!

Anyway. No cat smell here. All I can tell you is that I use Dr. Elsey's Ultra.

$14 for a 40lb bag.

It's not even a case of "You wouldn't notice it because you live in it all the time so you're used to it." - I'd notice it upon coming home from work if it were bad. I smell nothing here. Also, decent ventilation via windows helps.

Try putting a portion of her food in a toy that requires activity to dispense such as this. It may help increase activity and reduce eating out of boredom.

ask the roommate about opening the window for the cat during the day. Alternately, you could buy the cat something like this http://www.amazon.com/Bergan-Turbo-Scratcher-Cat-Toy/dp/B000IYSAIW

I do like the idea that /u/DealWithThat suggested, but if it doesn't work, you may want to check in to a compressed air canister that has a motion sensor on it, like this.

I've seen it on My Cat from Hell and they seem to be pretty effective, however you may need more than one if she scratches on multiple spots on the bed (ie one on either side.) It will just blow a puff of air at her when she approaches and scare her off.

Keep us updated!

The Clevercat top entry box is the only thing that keeps our cat from kicking litter all over the bathroom. It's annoying to pay $40 for a box with a hole in it but it works really well.

We bought a litter additive for our cat in a similar situation. She's in a small room by herself with this in her litterbox and so far, so good.
Precious Cat Ultra Litter Attractant, 20 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PKUUU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WEs9ybK3EQ3ZH

We have this feeder at our house. Like yours, our cat will gorge until she barfs, so we use it all the time. Like eveekay said, get the feeder ASAP and start using it before you leave to be absolutely sure the feeder doesn't have any issues and that your guys are making proper use of it.

Biggest problem I've heard from other cat owners is that their cats find a way to open the feeder and feed themselves. Luckily my cat is dumb as dirt and hasn't figured this out yet.

I suggest this. I have a kitten who would go everywhere but the box. I almost had to return her to the shelter i got her from when they recommended this and it works.

I've had this one by Whisker City for ~7 months now, and have yet to have any problems. Is yours also the smallest size one?

At home my parents have this one by Drinkwell. They've been using this for probably several years now, with no major problems, besides having to refill/clean it all the time because a LOT of cats share it, haha. Hope you find one that works out!