Top products from r/Plumbing

Any bag or bucket will do - it's what you put in it that counts. Something cheap is best, like a 5 gal bucket, since the tools are going to cost you...

The tools I recommend having immediately:

-Hammer (22oz Estwing steel hammer is great, I still have the first one I ever bought 14 years ago)
-Nail puller
-Flat pry bar
-2-lb sledge (if you're doing commercial work you'll be setting a lot of hangers :)
-12" or shorter level (preferably with grade marks - I like these ones
-Set of cold chisels
-Adjustable pliers (some like channellocks, but after using both for many years, I have come to the conclusion that due to mechanical advantages and better engineering, these Knipex pliers are the best pliers on the face of the earth, period. You can get a 3-pack on ebay for less than $100. But you can also just get the 10" ones which you'll use most often for around $30 online.
-"Rat-tail" file and flat file
-4-in-1 or 8-in-1 screwdriver
-utility knife (preferably one that stores blades in the handle and one that easily changes blades)
-Sharpies (or pencils - I prefer sharpies, since they more visibly mark metal)
-12", 8", and 6" crescent wrench. Get something cheap, because eventually you'll want these and they're effing expensive, so you might as well get some basic stuff now, knowing that you'll eventually upgrade when you have about $800 to spend on hand tools.
-5/16" nut driver

That's all I can think of right now....don't get too worried about getting the perfect stuff now, because as you steadily become a master of your craft, your style of organization, tool selection, and approach will gradually become more specific, and you'll go through lots of old crappy "apprentice" tools before you start to have thousands of dollars invested in super-special stuff like this, this,this, this, this, boy I could go on forever. You don't use a lot of stuff very often, but when you need it, nothing else will do. Oh, and pipe wrenches...aluminum Ridgid pipe wrenches.

EDIT: Oh I forgot! If you're doing commercial work and cast iron piping, you'll definitely want one of these.

Replace the canister black rubber seal with this:
Mansfield Plbg. Prod. 006304837 Replacement Seal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0045LVAZE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dXEbzbTJ0X50T
Be careful, wear gloves maybe? Unless you don't mind black shit all over your hands. Dispose of it into some toilet paper or a paper towel and throw it away. New one should fit around and it will flush good again, as for supply line, go to the local store and also grab a 12" braided stainless steel supply line. & the fill valve I would buy this:
Fluidmaster 400A Anti-Siphon Toilet Tank Fill Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002ND6R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mZEbzbSH6FDNE

You'll need a bucket to catch the water from the tank, then the water off to the toilet first. Flush it to completely empty the tank, then remove the supply line, probably need pliers to remove the fill valve nut where the supply was attached, remove that, get the new one set up and ready with the rubber seal on the new shank. Bucket comes into play here with a towel, remove old one, shove new one in, tighten by hand. Shouldn't need to be any tighter than hand tight. Install new supply line to valve and fill valve shank, and replace the canister seal. Good to go. If there's still a problem, it's probably the valve that shuts off the water to the toilet. In that case, call your landlord to fix it. Otherwise. Good job! Like-new toilet. Good luck.

It's funny, I was originally looking at that exact pump on Amazon. It looks great and I like the price except it looks like it requires a vent to be tied into the vent stack. Is that correct?

I didn't want to have to run an extra pipe and cut into the vent stack. So I'm considering the Hartell because it specifically says it doesn't require the vent and I'm pretty sure it's the one installed in a This Old House video.

I recently put in a waste king, and I love it. Super quite, and all of them are pretty highly reviewed on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Waste-King-L-2600-Continuous-Operation/dp/B0014X7B54/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397234017&sr=8-1&keywords=garbage+disposal

http://www.amazon.com/Waste-King-L-3300-Continuous-Operation/dp/B0014X7B5E/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1397234023&sr=8-4&keywords=waste+king


Edit: I have the 1/2 hp model, and its never had any issue, and my wife throws EVERYTHING down it.

Installing new toilet (old one leaked a little and I wanted a new one anyway). From what I've read flange should be above the title somewhat but it is below. So it looks like they installed it wrong initially. What do I need to bring it up. Spacers/Extenders? Can anyone link to a specific product?


Edit - Well this conversation went sideways. I just installed a Danco "Perfect Seal" from Home Depot (because it didn't involve any drilling). Going ok so far.

It looks like a [moen] ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000XHHYUO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479632311&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=moen+chateau+lavatory+faucet&dpPl=1&dpID=417Pdjj%2BoBL&ref=plSrch) but not sure a out it. If you take the handle off (hex key in the front) and send pic I can tell for sure. Moen will give you a new [cartridge] ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0006290R6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479632591&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=1225b&dpPl=1&dpID=31QEcM0Ab7L&ref=plSrc) for free if you bring the old one in. [Delta repair kits] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BQW9RK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1479632446&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=delta+repair+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=41kTyvFeigL&ref=plSrch) almost as cheap.

Thanks for the reply. The reason for my question was the first user amd multiple other comments [here.] (http://www.amazon.com/Sioux-Chief-Mfg-660-H-4-Inch/dp/B000H5MQNM/ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&psc=1) Does it make sense?

"When you mount this device, mount it directly on the back of the washing machine. This way the cylinder is aligned with the momentum of the water column that needs to be slowed. If you mount it instead at the other end of the washing machine hoses, this is not aligned and the performance will be significantly less effective. When properly mounted, these are GREAT!!!"

Can you tell me more about a deep seal bowl wax? I have this one - Next by Danco 10718X Perfect Seal Toilet Wax Ring https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KHSLV2G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_w0KizbC3HAC0Z

Thanks!

Thanks! I think you may have put me on the right track. I went to the front hydrant and it had a different top, which tells me the back had been replaced before. It said Mansfield.

So I found this

https://www.prier.com/images/stories/documents/documents/Mansfield%20Stem%20ID%20Flyer.pdf

Looks like series 400 or 500 hydrant.

So I THINK this is what I need.

https://www.amazon.com/Prier-630-7500-Vacuum-Breaker-Service/dp/B00164C5IO/ref=sr_1_1?crid=31OZ7N0SI11GP&keywords=prier+630-7500+vacuum+breaker+service+parts+kit&qid=1562258968&s=gateway&sprefix=Prier+630%2Caps%2C127&sr=8-1

That being said, the white plastic piece looks a little different from the one I took a picture of..

Here's the one I went with-https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014X7B5E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 -- So far it's BRILLIANT. Had it for about 6 weeks now. Quiet, absolutely DESTROYS food, including fruit rinds (limes, etc.). Great product, little to no vibration. Thanks for all the advice on here everyone!

https://www.amazon.com/Hach-145300-Total-Hardness-Model/dp/B008FM7WLU

if water it hard, try posting water softener info and pics to terry love water softener forums. smart group of guys there that know about varies valves, etc.

these are old leaded flanges, my experience with cast iron and leaded flanges is rather limited due to my age and region. but the best way would be to replace the lead with newer cast iron if that's possible, or buy new flange plates that bolt to the existing floor.
this is a cast iron toilet flange that are much newer and the standard for cast iron applications :http://amzn.com/B001REGQXI
and this is more of a temporary flange you can use to repair what you have that will bolt to the floor: http://amzn.com/B000FHBGEC

Think I would just install this

http://www.amazon.com/Grundfos-595916-Horsepower-Comfort-Recirculator/dp/B000JG81AQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1415804687&sr=1-2&keywords=Grundfos

Buy extra comfort valves and put them where you like, and insulate as much of the pipe as you can.

That accomplishes most of what you want, the pump goes on the water heater, you can buy extra comfort valves separately, and you can just turn it off in mild weather.

So yeah it would use more power three or four months out of the year you would want to run it all the time for freeze ups, but the rest of the year you could just run it on the built in timer, or manually turn it on or off.

Very easy 2 minute repair.

Pull off the metal cap on top which covers the vacuum breaker. It pulls straight off - might need a pliers. There will be a plastic piece that you need to tighten a little I think with a Phillips screwdriver.

If that doesn’t fix it then you need a new vacuum breaker kit called a Prier Mansfield Breaker Repair Kit model 630-7500 that has a replacement for the inside plastic pieces.. Runs under $10 and most hardware stores sell them.

https://www.amazon.com/Prier-630-7500-Breaker-Service-Original/dp/B00164C5IO

If its a Fluidmaster 400a you can replace the washer in it and you should be cool, the washer is like $1-3 and it only takes about 30 seconds.

Fluidamster 400a

http://www.amazon.com/Fluidmaster-400A-Anti-Siphon-Toilet-Valve/dp/B00002ND6R/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1368984456&sr=1-1&keywords=fluidmaster+400

The washer

http://www.amazon.com/Lasco-04-7171-Toilet-Ballcock-Fluidmaster/dp/B000FH87GC


Replace the flapper/flush ball/flush disc when you do this, just because it"s most likely on it's way out as well

I recently purchased this Moen handle to replace my current knob. I realized today that the new handle does not fit the cartilage due to the size difference. Do I have to replace the cartilage with a cartilage that is compatible with the Moen handle (Moen 1225 Cartilage) and if so will it be easy to do?

Pictures of new and old handle: https://imgur.com/a/X2XmDxt

Thank you!

best one IMO: https://www.amazon.com/Next-Danco-10718X-Perfect-Toilet/dp/B00KHSLV2G/

Thanks, that's exactly what I did. Purchased a repair kit on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00164C5IO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Might be worth it to purchase a different style Flapper and give it a go, one that slides over the flush valve tube. Like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Fluidmaster-504-Universal-Chlorine-Resistant/dp/B000DZF73M/ref=zg_bs_3226965011_24?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VRX35K0KM9B60E1MQ2KK

Take with a grain of salt

I own a home with a basement/crawlspace drainage/underground spring situation. The sump pump I inherited with the house was always running at first. I installed a 4" pvc line that drains to the alley, plus added 6" gutters and downspout that is on the opposite end of the natural grade of the basement/crawlspace. Then installed This and everything is worry free now.

Or you can buy arrestors already made for this situation that look like this https://www.amazon.ca/Sioux-Chief-660-H-4-Inch-Female/dp/B000H5MQNM

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009TCDZ2/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_5?smid=A1PTZTHYRQJ1CT&psc=1

If you read the reviews, it looks like many people have used this pump as a washing machine pump.

I would start with pumice, like this: http://www.amazon.com/Pumie-Toilet-Bowl-Remover-TBR-6/dp/B000BPRDCW

Looks like a Proper/Mansfield sillcock that needs a new vacuum breaker, the parts are less than $10.


https://www.amazon.com/Prier-630-7500-Vacuum-Breaker-Service/dp/B00164C5IO

I'll agree with what others have already said. And also add the following comments:

Have you checked pressure upstream and downstream of the PRV? Use one of these. Also you can try adjusting the pressure by turning the bolt after loosening the nut. If no change, then time to replace.

Its not abnormal for the diaphram to wear out. If you can ID the model (or take to a plumbing supply to ID), you can buy a repair kit to replace the guts leaving the housing in place, which would be less labor. Just remove the bell and the guts are accessible.

If no luck with repair kit, you'll have to replace the whole thing. In which case, don't worry about finding the identical model. As someone mentioned, unless you have movement in the pipe, it won't be easy to get on, and would require soldering anyway. The critical dimension would have been the spacing between the in & out port, and pipe size. Yours look like 3/4".

Home depot does in fact carry PRVs, example. This one is a union on both sides which would make it easier to install. Still requires some sweating/soldering. But you don't need extra play in the pipes to squeeze the PRV in place.

Also, what's going on above the PRV? I see wire nuts. I hope that's for sprinklers and not line voltage. Make sure those are waterproof wire nuts, or packed with silicone.

well the fill valve will only hiss when it calls for water. Or its busted. Let it sit and see if the hissing stops, if it does stop over a long duration of time, try adjusting the float a little. If that doesn't work, its also time for a new ballcock.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00002ND6R?pc_redir=1411222918&robot_redir=1
Also easily installed.

This will work as well...https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000DZF73M/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_a9pGybX5N6YX6

This would work. It drills the PVC pipe out of the fitting so you can glue a longer piece in.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HE9YS8?pc_redir=T1

http://www.amazonsupply.com/dp/B000FSSPZ4?ref_=sr_1_1_txt

If the toilet overflows, it's clogged. I would address that first, starting with a closet auger.

You can do a test at home if all you are looking at is hardness. I've seen this recommended. If you are on municipal water there should be water quality reports available.

https://www.amazon.com/Prier-630-7500-Vacuum-Breaker-Service/dp/B00164C5IO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494810868&sr=8-1&keywords=mansfield+vacuum+breaker+repair+kit

I’ll see if we get anywhere with the testing kit and actually turning the softener on. If it works, I’ll see about getting the other information you specified to see if it’s set close to where it should be.

Based on this test the hardness is 30 before running the softener.

We do have an iron filter in line ahead of the softener and the tank was just replaced a month ago or so due to it being close to full and a recommendation of the previous homeowner to replace it in 2015 (we found an old invoice for that).

https://www.amazon.com/Moen-104421-Cartridge-Puller-Cartridges/dp/B00083EC6C

They sell them at home Depot and Lowes too. Most major box stores should have them

And this too?

Delta Faucet RP3614 Repair Kit Single Handle Knob Or Lever
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQW9RK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_S6H9BbNX1K0AA

The tool you’re after is a Moen cartridge puller
Moen 104421 Cartridge Puller for 1200, 1222 and 1225 Single Handle Cartridges https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00083EC6C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_igz1CbWMN6GX1

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Link: http://www.amazon.com/Waste-King-L-2600-Continuous-Operation/dp/B0014X7B54/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397234017&sr=8-1&keywords=garbage+disposalhttp://www.amazon.com/Waste-King-L-3300-Continuous-Operation/dp/B0014X7B5E/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1397234023&sr=8-4&keywords=waste+king


|Country|Link|
|:-----------|:------------|
|Japan|amazon.co.jp|
|Canada|amazon.ca|



This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting).

Get the Ridgid K-6 toilet auger, or if you're really adventurous, a Korean push bomb plunger.

I agree with those saying check water pressure. You may only see it at your dishwasher because the solenoid valve it has closes really fast. But if you turn on a sink and slam the faucet shut as quick as you can, you’ll hear it there too. You can get a relatively cheaply and check it at a spigot yourself to rule it out. You want to be 40-60 psi here’s a gauge for $6.37
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004RACK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519230445&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=water+pressure+gauge&dpPl=1&dpID=513tdz-hTQL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/RIDGID-59802-Toilet-Clogged-Toilets/dp/B0015BABE8/ref=pd_bxgy_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0015BABE8&pd_rd_r=8BRDR195B1ZN85C4ZXHP&pd_rd_w=zzaMk&pd_rd_wg=h66zV&psc=1&refRID=8BRDR195B1ZN85C4ZXHP

Stop putting chemicals down the drain.

Ferrule puller. Screw into the nut on the back, pulls off brass ferrule. I'd do that before cutting pipe. high grit sand paper 200 grit or so. Gently clean up pipe. Try a new sharkbite valve.

https://www.amazon.com/Superior-Tool-Company-Compression-Fittings/dp/B000L89AZC/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CX0R42NTDBF04S794N03

You just need the right tool for the job is all. Also, don't pour scalding water in there anymore. You're ASKING for bigger problems. Toilets are ceramic... and constantly filled with COLD water. The heat stress can break it. Ever take a glass fresh out of the dishwasher and put cold water in it? POP! It's the same concept, but going from cold to hot instead of hot to cold.

https://www.amazon.com/RIDGID-59797-Toilet-Clogged-Toilets/dp/B000H5XRM6

Available at Home Depot

Amazon? And go get a flexible downspout like this until it arrives. As others have noted, however, having the slip joint past the P trap is a code violation. That said, no one really cares.

I'm gonna cut the 90 at the wall, then ream out (using bit in link below) the cut off that's inside the rear 90 and put a new trap in.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HE9YS8

Your right it would not make the water get there any faster. Your wrong about the temp being dangerous unless you have young children or your an idiot who drinks out of the hot side tap. The owner should just spend $$$ on a Grundfos comfort pump with a crossover valve.

Grundfos 595916 1/25 Horsepower Comfort Series Recirculator Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JG81AQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EvERAbPYBHYM8

I did say try the thermostat first btw.