It's a bit unclear what your experience level is. You mention "upping my game" but then say it's a "starter" tank.

I have a 2.5 gallon Fluval Spec III which has been running for about a year so I can give you some insights.

A refractometer is an excellent tool to invest in and will help you make accurate measurements.

Any salt mix that advertises as being "reef" formulated is probably fine, I seriously doubt there are big differences between brands.

Aim to do a 30-50% water change every week. Even if you slack off you will still generally end up doing it every 2 weeks which is a good pace. Water changes are essential to replenish trace elements and remove wastes.

For smaller tanks, Cobalt Neo-Therm Heaters are a good choice and have a slim profile. 50 watts is plenty for a 5.5 gallon tank (I have a 25 watt).

Get a two glass thermometers, one for the "display" of the tank and one for the rear chamber. Check them daily.

Get a suite of SALTWATER SPECIFIC test kits that cover pH, Nitrates, Nitrites, Ammonia, Calcium, and Carbonate Hardness (alkalinity). Test strips are nice to have for spot checks but are not to be relied upon. The only parameters I actually check regularly are pH, Calcium, and Alkalinity. Once the tank is stable, other parameters are unlikely to fluctuate much between water changes.

Invest in a good light! Seriously, it's one of the most important pieces of equipment so don't skimp out. You could get away with something like this if your corals aren't picky (I did for months with this light and it actually grew SPS alright) or a dodgy Chinese LED fixture from eBay, but I recommend something like the AI Prime HD (which I just upgraded to). It has built-in wifi control so you can set things like color temperature, auto timing, and weather patterns.

For a small tank, an auto top off (ATO) is essential. I have a Smart ATO Micro and I love it, works perfectly. Without an ATO your water will evaporate, your salinity will fluctuate, you can't risk leaving it alone for more than a day, and if you neglect it your pumps might even run dry and destroy themselves. Trust me, this is $124 well spent.

Upgrade your return pump from stock. I put an AquaTop SWP360 in the back of my Spec III and it works really well, good flow and just the right size. In a 5.5 gallon tank you might get away without an additional powerhead for flow, but I'd recommend a small (small) powerhead for good measure. (Pro tip: repurpose the stock return pump for that!)

What else...

Get GFCI power strips so that you don't electrocute yourself.

If you're getting a Fluval Spec III or V, consider investing in this excellent media basket.

Well that's some good advice to start from... let me know if you have questions.

http://imgur.com/NmBvujH.jpg

So, I have a standard 20 long. For circulation I run a Polario 10ml. It's a little overkill, and a 7ml would probably be more ideal, but I love the circulation throughout the tank and that its current reverses every 20 seconds to simulate the natural ebb and flow of the ocean. My corals have responded well to the increased and random flow, and the fish dno't mind it either. In addition, the one time I had need of their customer service, they were excellent and prompt. I recommend them to everyone looking for a new circulation pump

I custom built my sump from acrylic because I had a limited space for it, but it holds about 9 gallons total. I keep 7 lbs of live rock rubble in my first chamber, along with an Aquaticlife 115 protein skimmer. The skimmer isn't too bad. I wish it would produce less liquid and more solid skimmate, but it does create a pretty good amount of dark water over a few days, so I've been happy with it. I have a chaeto chamber next which also houses a Deep Blue UV Sterilizer. It's definitely helped slow down how fast algae grows on the tank walls. I bought it to see if it would help slow down the bryposis I've had the gross displeasure of dealing with. I would buy it again.

I put a 6 inch DSB in the next chamber, but I'm not convinced it ever set up properly. It's still a work in progress. Finally, I have a Marineland NJ1100 return pump, and some random heater stick I found lying around. The pump isn't bad, but I might choose something a little more powerful should I ever need to replace it. All in all I'm pretty happy with the setup.

Edit: I also use the Kent 2-Part Nano Reef supplement. I definitely notice a large difference in growth rates and vibrancy when I slack off for a while.

Edit Edit: Oh, and I have assorted corals including Blastos, Montis, Zoas, Some Ricordea, Digitata, Trumpets, plus others I just don't know the names of. There's also a Mini-Maxi Carpet Anemone, Black Blenny, Scooter Blenny, Red-Lined Cardinal, and a Yasha Goby/Tiger Pistol pair. I do a 10% to 20% water change each week to help replenish trace minerals. It would all be phenomenal if it weren't for the bryopsis. But, that's on it's way out too.

you can buy cured live rock, or you can also just place the rock directly into your tank if its the right stuff.

I took a look at your build list, not sure if you've changed it yet but i'd change pretty much everything in it.

Those powerheads will not push enough water. They are cheap chinese pumps that lie about their power. Pick up the hydor koralia powerheads if you want cheap.

Heaters you NEVER want to cheap out on, they are prone to getting stuck in the on position which will cook your entire tank. Look into the Jager line from eheim, very trustworthy.

That return pump is good, but you're going to need more power. The 2300 model is your best bet there. I don't think the 1200 model will even have enough head height to reach back into the tank.

Thats a good starter test kit, as you get into corals you'll want to pick up other ones.

For LEDs if you want cheap go for Mars Aqua LED lights. The ones in your build wont grow anything but the very basic corals. With Mars Aqua (or any other of the chinese LEDs) you can grow basically anything.

That refractometer is super cheap. If you get it i'd recommend testing it against your LFS every so often to make sure its still reading correctly.

Great skimmer choice, i run the octopus.

To start, great salt. As you get into more demanding corals you may want to upgrade to something with more nutrients.

I'd get an auto top off to start. Without it you either need to add water daily, or your tank may suffer. You also want to ONLY use RO/DI water as other water will hurt your livestock.

Don't get that RO system. Looks like a terrible system. Go with Bulk Reef Supply for a cheap RO/DI. You need an RO/DI unless you are planning on buying the water from your LFS.

The seneye is a waste of money. I'd start the tank without a controller, then if you feel like you want one grab the Reefkeeper (I use this) or the apex system (expensive, but has all the cool gadgets and easy to use).

Hope this helps, feel free to message me any time with questions! I love helping out.

one of the best setups I've ever seen had roughly 5-6 500+gallon tanks.. beautifully colored and amazing corals. The guy sells them and grows them for research.

I asked him what lighting he was using.. expecting him to say some god awefully expensive lights.

He told me to buy this granted, the auction is done, but search the same thing... its very affordable and very powerful.

I did not have room to hang it from above, so I opted to get THIS instead. It works pretty awesome. everything is growing nicely, but if I were to do it again, maybe a more powerful one.


also, having bought about 5 different circulation pumps for my 20g. some loud, some suck, some are huge.. don't waste your time, just go for this I found it to be the best.. super quiet and magnetic

Are you comfortable with DIY type projects? Also, what do the 5g tanks you have look like? I built my wife a 2.5g pico, so I can definitely send some links your way but I want to make sure I'm not sending you useless information. For starters, though, this is the light that hers uses (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ZK80YG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). The light is extremely blue, but that is the spectrum that the corals use. I don't think it would be enough light for the more demanding species out there, but it would definitely work with the corals in the picture that you posted. Make sure to get the super blue and daylight version if you go with this - there is a 12" version as well but I don't know the dimensions of your tank. Also, there is no on/off switch, but so long as you keep the light on a timer, this should not become an issue.

As far as your stocking question, hers has a bunch of mushroom corals and zoanthids, as well as a blasto, with a sexy shrimp, pom pom crab, and electric blue hermit crab. You are at the extreme lower end of being able to house a single fish, depending upon your water change regime. I am planning on putting together a 5g for myself in the near future that will house a yasha goby and pistol shrimp combo, which is pushing it but still feasible, for example.

Let me know some more details about what you have in mind as far as setup and I can definitely send some links your way. Since this is your first tank, you definitely will make mistakes, but I wouldn't be completely terrified of putting together a small tank. In fact, I often find it more rewarding to look at hers than my larger one, and so long as you truly take your time, keep livestock demands low, and maintain water quality/salinity, you should be able to pull it off.

maybe? i don't personally know any reefers that use finnex LEDs, but i know finnex is a good brand. Below are a couple lights id recommend.

GalaxyHydro

AI Prime and it's on sale!

Kessil A80

nanobox more expensive

Asta 20 (never used it, but amazon has good reviews)

Current LED will grow softies and lowlight LPS

OVERALL

skipping out on lighting is not wise. everything in the hobby revolves around lights and water quality. i have an AI prime and love it. did it cost more, yes, but its totally worth it. That being said, i had the galaxyhydro for several years when i was starting out. it'll grow everything, but you'll need to figure out how to mount it/hang it. good luck!

These are looking good: 1, 2, 3. For the last one, search for the name will show a lot of details.

Hardy is not a definition to a coral, but of suitability of it for your unique tank, IMHO. I, for example, can keep sps and LPS, but can't keep "beginner" softies (discosoma mushrooms, zoas, xenia and green star polyps), even on old "dirty" tank, they are alive, very slowly growing, but that's it.

Easy to take care: feeding once a week with full water change after that, this is a minimum. Practically, in the tank under 3 gal.

Sps do well with adequate light (12-24W PAR38 LED of the reef spectrum this or this, first looks better, more blue). You will have to figure out the height of the lights above water, starting from 14" and slowly decreasing it.

Easy to frag, of they are branching, not encrusting. For encrusting you will have to remove it and break the rock with chisel, while for branching snipping off branches is enough.

Dosing with pipette 2-part Ca-Alk supplements, sucas as ESV B-ionic, is helpful tor maintaining Ca-Alk levels.

When choosing sps, see photos of full grown corals, birdsnest grows too spaciously for a pico, and encrusting corals will encrust available to them rock.

LPS need more feeding, but do not require Ca dosing, only alk if it drops too low. Everything else is the same.

You could put blood shrimp there, it will need an arch (cave) to hide in and feeding. Remove excess of the food.

The total water in the system is 57G after losing some to the sump setup. I've been working on this for a few years, slowly building and acquiring equipment I needed or wanted. I just recently moved and decided to set it up as I had most of what I needed to run it. I also mocked up a lot of the build in SketchUp before building, you can view that here. https://i.imgur.com/pMjM6aP.png
 
I'm planning to make this a strictly SPS tank, so I went with a bare bottom on this build. My current tank is a 10G nano LPS tank with mainly zoas and mushrooms. My SO said if I can keep this one looking nice like my other one, we can get a 300 in the next house... so I'm going all out on the life support. :)
 
 
Equipment

• 45G Rimless Aquarium from GlassCages.com, 1" and 1 1/2" overflows
  
  
• Reef Octopus Classic 1000HB Hang on Back Skimmer - I wanted to save some room in my sump so I went with a HOB model of skimmer. I was planning to run my skimmer 24/7 so I wasn't worried with a HOB variant having tank water sit in it while it was not in use.
  
• BRS Mini Reactor, running ROX carbon and GFO mixture
  
• Rio Plus 1400, 420 GPH Return Pump (went with a smaller return for slower refugium contact time, and quieter operation
  
• Maxspect Gyre XF130 Wavemaker. I currently have this at 30% and it is suspending detritus very well, not allowing it to settle anywhere. I had it dialed to 60% but my six line wrasse was having a bit of trouble swimming around...
  
• Two VIPARSPECTRA 165W LED - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UMXAR5S, I went withcheaper Chinese lighting for now. These units have a built in timer so you can program when blues/whites turn on and off, but intensity is set at the same rate all of the time. I was thinking about buying a more expensive and customizable lighting solution, but didn't want to outlay a lot of cash for something that might could potentially work just as well as these two.
  
• Tunze Osmolator 3155 ATO. I don't have this wired in yet (see the DIY section) so I've been dumping RO/DI in manually every morning. The tank is evaporating about 1/2 a gallon every day.
  
• RO/DI Unit - I'm using Bulk Reef Supply's 6 stage water saver unit. My water going in is about 9-12TDS @ 35PSI. I had to buy a booster pump to get this up to about 60PSI as I was going through DI resin pretty quickly. http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-6-stage-universal-water-saver-plus-ro-di-system-150gpd.html
  
• Heater - Two Eheim 150w heaters. Two for redundancy, one was keeping my tank at 79F quite easily.
   
   
  
  DIY
  
  
• Tank stand is layered 1"x 3" pine. The wood was painted black and wet sanded to attempt to give it a piano finish (and I was going to place doors on the front and sides), this turned out pretty complicated so instead I'm going to wrap the tank in 1/8" black acrylic and secure it with velcro or magnets.
  
• Light stand is t slotted aluminum. I secured it to the back of the tank and let it overhang the tank by about 9". It is 14" off of the surface of the water, allowing the lights to sit about 5" from the surface.
  
• 20G Long Custom Sump - 2 baffles, 8" for drain(s) and HOB skimmer, 14" refugium, 8" return / auto top off chamber. I simply cut some plexiglass and placed in the tank. The refugium has eggcrate preventing the chaeto from spilling into the return chamber and fouling up my two pumps.
  
• ATO RO/DI Reservoir - I purchased some black plexiglass and I'm going to build a simple 16"x16"x8" black container with two holes drilled in the top - one with a lid so I can fill RO, the other smaller for the ATO cable and hose. I'm trying to find a 3/4" rubber grommet for that hole so I can keep dust out. I have yet to start this project, but its next on my list.
  
   
  Current Livestock
  
  
• Six Line Wrasse - he came over from my 10G nano SPS tank as he was getting a bit big for that tank.
  
• Two Clown fish, orange and black AKA "Candy" and "Corn".
  
• Five Trochus Snails
  
   
  Still to Come
  
  
• Reef Controller. Right now, I have a mess of cords sitting to the right of the stand, as you can see. I want to get a reef controller, I've left myself a lot of room in the stand so I can wire it in, but I'm not yet sure on which one to buy. I'm trying to decide between the Neptune Apex Jr with PH module, or a Vertex Cerebra. The cerebra is not yet out, so that is partially why I still haven't made up my mind.
  
   
  
  So that's about it. I'm not sure what else I want to stock fish-wise in this tank, I would like to have a few more to help me keep the SPS fed, I'm thinking about a few Chromies and maybe a flame angel as the last fish. Open to suggestions.
  

you know, i kinda assumed it had 2 cords, but looking at the pics again, i think you are right! Wow, i feel really bad giving some advice to buy something that I obviously know nothing about...

​

check out the Mars Aqua. this is the one that most people will say they have used if they have a cheap chinese knock off light. it is a bit more expensive at 110.. but its still half the price of what you were looking at.

​

this is a knock off of the mars aqua that does have both cords

this is another knock off, that also has both cords..

​

both of these knock offs are in the $80 range.. so you gotta decide if its worth it to cheap out that much, or go with the 110 mars aqua version.. again, these are all pretty much cheap chinese stuff, that you should get a year or two of good service out of. after that, if you are still in the hobby you will likely have upgraded or changed lights..

​

My light is about 10" above the tank. I have mine suspended... i would guess you could make something like a stand for it.. the light itself is rather small, like 10"X16" and only like 2" thick..

This might end up being an unpopular opinion, but if you're doing a LPS tank the Orbit Marine LED series by Current USA is a good option. I switched over to it from a basic Aqueon LED (which was useless), and my corals are doing great now. They're fairly cheap, and come with full customization as far as color spectrum and time controls.

To be fair, this is just my first saltwater tank, but I'd say a noticeable boost in coral growth less than a month after switching lights says something about the new light system.

Here's a link to the light I got on Amazon, they come in a bunch of different sizes: https://www.amazon.com/Current-USA-Marine-Aquarium-36-Inch/dp/B00GFTNG3S

First, no you don't need a par meter. That's a waste of money. Most local reef clubs should have one for rent, or maybe an LFS will let you rent one if you're curious about it. But it isn't necessary.

Here's how I approximate the strength of lighting when it comes to LED. First, look at the infamous "chinese leds" aka "black boxes" (https://www.amazon.com/MarsAqua-Dimmable-Aquarium-Freshwater-Saltwater/dp/B017GWDF7E). These are proven to grow even high light demand corals. If you do your research, you'll find each LED is 3 watts. Now if each LED is 3 watt, thats a 155 watt fixture. This is alot of light and you will bleach many corals if you turn it up 100%.

Let's look at another example. The hydra 26 HD. This one also grows corals well. it's 90 watts at full power and can also grow SPS. You would need multiple fixtures to get proper coverage, but it will be enough.

The Hydra's little brother, the AI Prime, is 35 watts if I recall correctly. This one can grow medium to low light corals really well, but in my experience, wasn't enough to keep SPS brown.

Then look at your fixture. If im not mistaken, it's 15 watts? But i guess that would depend on the length. Take that total wattage, and divide by number of led diodes. You're gonna get something like .5 watts or 1 watt per diode. Compare that to the 3 watt per diode of the chinese led that can grow sps, and you'll see what I mean.

So rule of thumb, anything less than 1 watt per diode isn't worth getting. 1 watt per diode (I think orbit marine falls in this category) is the minimum. 3 watts per diode and you can grow anything you want.

That's just a basic rule of thumb. It doesn't factor in spectrum, coverage, penetration, or lighting schedule which is also important. More diodes, better coverage. Stronger diodes, better penetration.

Besides it not being available, if you really want anemones and want to go cheap you should do black box. Not the best colors but they at least keep the anemones and corals healthy.

VIPARSPECTRA Timer Control 165W LED Aquarium Light Dimmable Full Spectrum for Coral Reef Grow Fish Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UMXAR5S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_y.rVAbYCZ7A9Y

This is the one I had for a while and it was able to grow corals but the visual look to the eye wasn’t the best. Too much blue. But again, best for the price.

Just don’t go adding anemones until your tank is well established, usually about 6 months. They are animals too and it’s not fair to make them suffer because you couldn’t wait.

Also, have you considered maybe T5? 2 2bulb T5Ho fixtures are nice and have been proven to work.

That is the smaller 14 gallon unit. I would stay away from that one for the same reasons everyone is saying smaller aquariums are harder to take care of. I have to be very careful when I do my water changes, because when I take 5 gallons out of my tank it is about a fourth of it's capacity. So if my water is 10 degrees cooler than the rest of the tank when I go to refill it, it can be a huge shock to the tank.

This is the tank I would recommend

Seriously though look online and find them used Mine was in pretty much perfect condition and I only paid $150 for the whole thing with stand.

A couple of weeks ago I saw an Innovative Marine 30Gal tank

At the LFS for only $200 and it was pretty much ready to go.

I ran this tank for about a year and a half. Super great beginner tank. I would recommend this protein skimmer (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N0C74Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Message me if you are interested in a used one. I also retrofitted this LED system into my hood (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UMXAR5S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). It wasn't the easiest to make it work but after a little bit of cutting back the hood it worked great.

This;

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005QRDCP2?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

Plus this;


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EWENMAU?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

Plus this;

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010TIEMP6?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

Equals this;

http://s119.photobucket.com/user/gunzen31/media/617D1269-81D4-45D6-BAAA-E0B97B1D596F_zpsf3btyjod.png.html

33 dollars plus tax free shipping. Add some Chaeto and you have a good sized refugium with a pump that fits perfectly with a piece of 1/2 flexible tubing to connect the pump to siphon tube.

The sand is This stuff I love this sand. It is fine but it seems to be a haven for little bugs, copepods and other live. The snails love it as well!

I use this. It works very well, and it's at the very least a name brand. You can add in a DI can if you need to for not very much money, if you don't get 0 ppm. I get 0 ppm every time, and we have 400 ppm source water from the tap. If you want to test, this is only $20, and it's great. Best shit you can get, without regard to the price. For home use, it's awesome.

The 50 gallon version makes it fast enough.

I have Current USA Orbit Marine LEDs. My LFS has had them on a tank with multiple RBTAs in it for about 5 months now, so I think they put out pretty good light.
I think they look really slick and have a shimmer in the water that looks decently natural (at least on my Biocube 14).
And they're pretty cheap in terms of LED fixtures.
Heres a link to the 24" to 36" fixture on amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Current-USA-Marine-Aquarium-36-Inch/dp/B00GFTNG3S

Yeah I do have it pointed to the top, but it seems a bit underpowered. What would you recommend? I was looking at this Also a local guy gave me a bottle of start smart saltwater aquarium instant cycler... Do you recommend that or should I just wait it out.

I also have a 40B (seahorse tank) and have a pretty cheap lighht on there (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GFTNG3S/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

I know these kessils and others are super expensive compared to that (2x ~$300 right?) So I just want to know if you think that is a worthy upgrade? That's probably more than all the other equipment combined.

If you want to keep it simple, you could run a fluval Evo 13.5 gallon.

https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-10531A1-SEA-Aquarium-13-5/dp/B01M2WI6PT

It includes a light that will grow most soft corals and a few easy lps. Comes with a return pump and some filter media.

That would be about $160

You should easily be able to find about 15 lbs of base rock or cured live rock for a decent price. $50

If you want substrate, Caribsea fiji pink will work. A 20lb bag is dirt cheap on Amazon. 20


Here's a Reef 2 Reef thread with people showing off their Evo 13.5s to give you an idea of what they look like. There are also some fancier ones that I've seen on instragram that will blow your mind.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/show-your-fluval-evo-13-5.292874/

Heater. 20

https://www.amazon.com/CaribSea-Arag-Alive-20-Pound-Fiji-Pink/dp/B00025YVGC


That puts you at around $230. Clowns are about $20 at your lfs, so let's say $40

$290 total. You can do it for cheaper or much much more if you choose. I used to own this tank and I loved it. You can modify it quite a bit if you want. I added a protein skimmer, media basket, media filter, and a new light to mine.

https://www.amazon.com/HIPARGERO-LED-Aquarium-Light-Saltwater/dp/B0727V8C5Q/ref=sr_1_1_sspa/146-1421938-5452528?ie=UTF8&qid=1526747637&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=hipargero+led&psc=1

I use this on a 16 bow front with wonderful success. Soft corals and lps. However it is not programmable in any way. For the money it’s amazing, but the best light on the market for smaller tanks is the AI Prime HD. Can’t beat it for quality, watt strength and programmability. Under 300 is no problem.

While some people run canister filters on saltwater tanks with success, they are generally not used. Most of the biological filtration in saltwater tanks is done by the bacteria that cover the surface area of the rockwork and sand. Canisters end up filling with gunk and waste that then leeches nitrates and phosphates back into the water and can be counter productive if not kept exceptionally clean. In planted tanks these products are used by the plants, but are detrimental to most marine invertebrates. HOB filters can be used, but generally they are only used for water flow through chemical filtration bags like chemipure, purigen, or GFO. The amount of surface area a HOB filter adds is minimal compared to the porous rock and sand in saltwater tanks.


I ran a sumpless system for about 2 years and many people do the same. Although the system was successful in the short term the waste export was not great and the clarity/water surface were not what they have been since I have set up a new system with sump, filter socks, and skimmer. If you want a simple setup for ~$500 maybe look into some of the plug and play systems like the nuvo aquariums or all-in-one cubes. Some of these systems are more customizable than others if you think you may want to upgrade the tank in the future.

For example:
http://www.marinedepot.com/Innovative_Marine_30_Gallon_NUVO_Fusion_30L_Aquarium_(Tank_Only)_Nano_Cube_Aquariums_Tanks_30_39_Gallons-Innovative_Marine-0I10443-FIAQNCNTHH-vi.html

http://www.amazon.com/Coralife-15607-Biocube-Size-29/dp/B007UQA7CS

http://www.amazon.com/JBJ-Nano-Cube-Aquarium-Fluorescents-Moonlights/dp/B002BC4XIU

https://www.amazon.com/HIPARGERO-LED-Aquarium-Light-Saltwater/dp/B0727V8C5Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?keywords=coral+light+led&qid=1558878533&s=gateway&sr=8-9

Best quality light for the money you will be able to find with good reviews. Just do some research online before you buy coral it will go along ways, we all make mistakes but it’s if we correct them that matters. Look into 52 weeks of reefing on YouTube and good luck sir

Ocean Revive

I've had really good luck with mine so far. i have a 29g aga and it has a timer for blues and whites and I have a mixed reef tank and it takes good care of everything on low settings.

Here's the light, seems like it's programmable. Another thing I'm trying to make sense of is using the sump . I know I need a return pump and from what I've gathered it should be about 200 gph. Don't fully understand the filter sock part. Also the middle chamber should have the skimmer and macroalgae?

There's a supposedly pretty good shop near me for saltwater. I'll probably go check it out this weekend as well. Go that route for water until
I have some extra for the RO/DI system.

This looks like cyano to me. I had it years ago. I used this stuff. Never came back. Reef safe.

https://www.amazon.com/Boyd-Enterprises-CC02-Chemi-Clean-2/dp/B00025YRJS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524358863&sr=8-1&keywords=cyanobacteria

I would also get a small media reactor and run GFO if I were you. I am. I have a sulfur reactor, GFO reactor, and skimmer going 24/7. Make sure to have a good cleanup crew.

Alright thanks for the suggestions, I'll definitely keep checking and make changes accordingly. I'm using a pair of these https://www.amazon.com/LED-Aquarium-Light-Hipargero-Saltwater/dp/B0727V8C5Q
The reviews seemed good and it was affordable. I turn them on in the mornings and then off at evening before bed.

Welcome to a hobby that's as addictive as crack and sometimes more expensive.

1. That's not a skimmer, that's a filter. Skimmers work by producing tiny bubbles of air which trap organic matter in the water tension of the bubble and carry it away. People refer to those as HOB filters (Hang On Back). What you might want to look into is a HOB protein skimmer like this one: http://www.marineandreef.com/CPR_Bak_Pak_2_Bio_Cyclone_Bak_Pak_Skimmer_Reef_p/RCPR02072.htm?gclid=CP_2y73u-7gCFSU6QgodZmcADg
   
   
2. If you decide to go with a filter and not a skimmer, I'd look into ones that do surface skimming like this one:http://www.amazon.com/AquaTop-Hang-On-Filter-Surface-Skimmer/dp/B005DCCT04/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1376446396&sr=1-5&keywords=hob+skimmer
   The reason you want "surface skimming" is because proteins tend to build up into a film on the surface of the water. This film reduces oxygen exchange and can be harmful to small fish.
   
   
3. That powerhead is WAY to large for a 10g. The rule of thumb for saltwater tanks is 20 times more flow than volume. So for a 10g tank, I'd get a 240GPH power head. I'm a huge fan of the Korali Nano: http://www.amazon.com/Hydor-Koralia-Nano-Aquarium-Circulation/dp/B0036S4YZ0/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1376446665&sr=1-1&keywords=koralia+nano
   
   
4. The more filtration the better. I don't think I've ever seen any setup that has "too much" filtration. I know that technically it is possible, I just have never seen one. Live rock and Cheato are both types of biological filtration, while floss is physical. The worst thing that can happen if you have too much filtration is you'll have to do water changes less frequently.
   
   Good luck and let us know what you come up with.
   
   EDIT: removed bad advice.

I have this RO unit and it works pretty well for a smaller tank. For $60 it will pay for it self pretty quickly making salt and top off water.

Aquatic Life RO Buddie Four Stage Reverse Osmosis System with Color Changing Mixed Bed Deionization Cartridge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00204CQF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1NieBbFKAY6VJ

I also check out this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007ZK816S/ref=pd_aw_sbs_2?pi=SS115&simLd=1

I had the freshwater version on my mini planted tank and it worked great and looked amazing.

Depends on your size tank. I'm going with oceanrevives on my new tank build. A 40 breeder. https://www.amazon.com/OceanRevive®-Arctic-T247-Spectrum-Dimmable-Aquarium/dp/B00YOYD3K2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=oceanrevive&qid=1551396613&s=gateway&sr=8-1

An aquamaxx prism I hear is ok as well. If your in the 10-20 gal range, go with an aquaknight. One of the best lights for the price and can grow anything and looks nice as well.

Oh, I also made this thread a few days ago for situations like this. Tho we did have a few people still suggesting the high priced lights. They had good intentions but that thread was not for those lights.

https://www.reddit.com/r/ReefTank/comments/aueo7u/good_strong_budget_light_for_a_40_breeder/

Thanks, I think I will buy a ro unit. Is this one ok?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DOG63OY/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1421600615&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&dpPl=1&dpID=41CF6VoMfQL&ref=plSrch

As for a protein skimmer, what do you think is the best company?

I'm super happy with having two Viparspectra lights over each 55. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UMXAR5S/ref=sxts_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499706550&sr=1 . Plus here is my setup after installing the lights http://m.imgur.com/GcOKRRG

Thank you so for the advice/suggestions. I'm just confused by all the stats. I don't know if I have to look at watts, PAR, PUR, Kelvin, Lumens.. etc.

However, I did manage to find this nano LED light on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Hipargero-Touch-Control-Aquarium-Saltwater/dp/B0727V8C5Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1505764896&sr=8-2&keywords=reef+tank+light+18+inch

What do you think of this one?

Edit: Also, how do you know what stats for light are good for the dimensions of your tank? Or should you fit the stats more to what coral you want to grow? E.g. color temp, wattage, lumens

For a 5 gallon reef all you would need is some live rock from your fowlr, a small 50 watt heater, a small circulation pump like a hydor 240 and a light like this would grow pretty much any coral in a 5 gallon.

Thank you, my entire setup is below, I do 10-20% water changes weekly depending on water quality and nothing else

15 gallon ~15x15x15 aquarium

Penguin Biowheel HOB filter ( most here will say never use HOB but I've never had an issue in the 2.5 years I've had it)

Hydor Koralia Nano 240 powerhead

The light is a 12" wavepoint 16 watt LED, half super blue half daylight

http://www.amazon.com/Wave-point-12-Inch-16-Watt-DaylightMicro-Output/dp/B007ZK816S/ref=pd_sim_petsupplies_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=023TVC4Y08SYZT2GA6XC

It'll be worth your while to get an RODI unit in the long run. You can get a simple 4 stage RODI on Amazon for like $60 as well, so you wouldn't be spending that much.

Edit: here's the Amazon listing for it https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00204CQF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fMtCDbWX9QMVW

hey man I just started a 30g as well, this was the light suggested to me by a few of my friends whom also use them on some of their tanks

http://www.amazon.com/Current-USA-Marine-Aquarium-36-Inch/dp/B00GFTNG3S/ref=pd_sim_petsupplies_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=12QJKMHR7NSTAAK6GDFB

I just got mine in today, it looks like it will do the job will let you know when I start adding coral and such to my tank

On my 1.5g pico I use a combination of the Wave-point 8W model and this 2W from HOSSEN. The smaller lamp is used as a spotlight for 4 hours on my sps. I have seen 1/3" of growth on my birdsnest and a few new polyps on zoa if it's any indication of how bad/good I'm doing with these lights.

Honestly, I would have forked out the money for a par30 bulb had I not been a dumb penny-pincher when I started.

If you are looking to get a light that will allow you to grow anything you want in that tank, check out this light. I have one and love it.

HIPARGERO LED Aquarium Light – Aquarium LED Lights 30W Saltwater Lighting with Touch Control and 3W Cree Chips for Coral Reef Fish Nano Tank (New) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0727V8C5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ER8RCb88QQQWM

I had all of my current corals in a 5g fluval spec and I used a Wave-point 12-Inch 16-Watt Super Blue and DaylightMicro Sun LED High Output Clamp Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ZK816S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ftlOybHXRMNXM on it. Paired with an actinic marine land strip it looked decent though the colors faded over time...

Which led me to believe I wasn't getting enough blue spectrum. Is the wavepoint and actinic strip combo enough for the 12? Or could I stand to get more light in there?

If I need more light would this suffice going on top of the glass on the edge? VIPARSPECTRA Timer Control 165W LED Aquarium Light Dimmable Full Spectrum for Coral Reef Grow Fish Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UMXAR5S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lElOyb5RS6Z9J

BRS has good videos on RODI units and ROBuddie has their own video in setting it up properly.

here’s a link to amazon It looks like its $59.99 right now so it’s a good price.

Under $200 I’d say although I live in the UK so I don’t know exact kit prices in the US. If your not bothered by coral then you can light it with anything. You could look at getting kit second hand or look at an all in one system like this:

Fluval Nano

I'm in the same situation, I got this one. It looks pretty close to yours but cheaper, if you want DI you have to buy that stage separately, i think it's around $30.

I've never had a problem with it leaking or anything, It also works really well. I don't have a TDS meter or anything, but I haven't had any algae blooms. I have to add about half a gallon a day to my 20 gallon to keep up with evaporation, so i'm sure I would have noticed by now if it wasn't doing its job.

The only things I don't like about it is that half the manual is printed on the box instead of in the actual manual. And that you need to buy some 1/4" tubing. Not a big deal, but eh, why couldn't they throw it in?

Yeah maybe! I have a small 10 gallon tank right now, with the hipargero lights and this fan that I will be installing today: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036S4YZ0?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image.

I also have a GSP in there that is flourishing. I'm still figuring out the lighting settings and everything but I moved the coral to the farthest edge that I could. Maybe the water pump will help with algae settling on the coral.

What are your goals? Assuming some corals since you're on reeftank.

I'd recommend this light for a budget light and when you can get a second one to help with spread.

https://www.amazon.com/HIPARGERO-LED-Aquarium-Light-Saltwater/dp/B0727V8C5Q/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524555372&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=hipargeo

https://www.amazon.com/MarsAqua-Dimmable-Aquarium-Freshwater-Saltwater/dp/B017GWDF7E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525976463&sr=8-1&keywords=marsaqua&dpID=510-YtX88TL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

2-3 of those would work well I think. I have never used them but plenty of people including a few local fish stores swear by them for cheap effective lighting.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017GWDF7E/ref=mp_s_a_1_1/144-0438777-2979746?ie=UTF8&qid=1525984045&sr=8-1&keywords=mars+aqua&dpPl=1&dpID=510-YtX88TL&ref=plSrch

Looking at mine right now, they have 4 rings on the back, you could probably mount it onto a rail, but you’d have to diy a good deal if you didn’t want to hang it

Get this book.

https://www.amazon.com/Conscientious-Marine-Aquarist-Microcosm-Professional/dp/1890087998/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466776945&sr=8-1&keywords=the+conscientious+marine+aquarium

Read it from Cover to Cover. It's best advice anyone gave me when I first started 6 months ago.

I got one. Best decision ever

Agreed, take your time and do it right. Don't try to rush the setup.

Before I started my tank everyone I knew told me I had to read this book cover to cover. Well worth it. Most people consider it to be the reef keepers bible.

Seconding this. I have a 6" version of this on my fluval spec, works and looks great.

Edit: Here is the one I bought

the tank measures 24" tall, would this by chance be decent enough? or what would you recommend with out breaking the bank?

+1 for wavepoint, also try these, they're super cheap so even if you need more than one you'll be saving money http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CXTZN2Q/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8

If you can afford it, go for a vortech MP-10 or a maxspec grye. If you want to save some money, buy this one. Down the road if you want more flow you could buy another RW-4. I'd rather have two rw4s over one rw8.

Jebao RW-4 Wavemaker with Contorller, 130-1000 GPH
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVI3BLO/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_0Xj9ub11FDRDT

I have this bulb over my 5.5 zoa garden. My zoas are happy and its affordable. Though the bulb is bigger than it looks. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CXTZN2Q/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005QRDCP2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Got it to put a little rock and some chaeto algae in for a refugium for pods mainly. Not sure it is the exact same one, but looks the same. I already had a pump that is in use with my skimmer, I added a line to it and it is sufficient for both. I have a 40 breeder, and this HOB is a half gallon, so kinda small, but cheap and easy.

Hydor koralia nano 240gph. In the 10g I had it in it was a little strong, but in the 29g it's a perfect. I don't think it would have a problem in your tank though

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0036S4YZ0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503166568&sr=8-1&keywords=hydor+koralia+nano

For under $70, this new LED is generating a lot of buzz: https://www.amazon.com/Macegrow-Aquarium-Light-Aqua-Lighting-Saltwater/dp/B079JTB5Q5/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526748479&sr=8-3&keywords=reef+led

If you can squeeze $120 out of your budget, a black box LED is dimmable and can grow about any coral you throw at it alongside moving up with you if you decide to upgrade to a bigger tank. For a 15g is would be kind of a waste/overkill but since it is dimmable, you can always play with it on this and future tanks. An example here: https://www.amazon.com/VIPARSPECTRA-Timer-165W-Aquarium-Dimmable/dp/B00UMXAR5S/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1526748479&sr=8-4&keywords=reef+led

So for my tank, do you guys think the 24 inch would be enough? Or would the current orbit marine LEDs be better? This one http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GFTNG3S/ref=pd_aw_sbs_1?pi=SS115&simLd=1

Sure! The prices are a bit different as I was timing what I bought when the prices were low or refurbs.

Tank

Media basket(absolute must have)

Auto top off

Powerhead

Heater

Temp Controller, Fan, and Gooseneck

Light, and Mount

Upgraded return pump

It's this tank and it has pretty much taken over the sand bed around the rock in the back left corner of the tank.

I am going to recommend you start doing some extra research before you take on this.

Bulk Reef Supply has a series of videos that are full of information on the hobby. I'd recommend watching as many of them ( if not all of them ) that you can. Also a book I was recommended that I've currently been reading through "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist"

The more you know going into this hobby, the better off you will be in the long run. You're attempting to create and maintain an ecosystem in your house / apartment / where ever this tank is located.

Starting new and diving right into trying to deal with a problematic tank might not be the best of ideas. As I don't currently have a tank setup yet take this opinion with a grain of salt, but I just can't see taking on a headache right out the gate.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007ZK816S/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1418946229&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

This is the light I use on a marineland contour 5 aquarium. Everything is open and happy including softies and lps, some of the reviews try sps but I'm not a fan so I don't have a first hand account. My main gripe is no on off switch (its on a timer anyways). It's a blueish light for sure and you don't have a nighttime setting is also a bummer. But for the price I'm happy!

VIPARSPECTRA Timer Control 165W LED Aquarium Light Dimmable Full Spectrum for Coral Reef Grow Fish Tank https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00UMXAR5S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SY2PCb160WSN7



Two of these would be good then?

Ok ordering some chemi pure , I found a cheaper light on amazon here

Would something like this be fine? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GFTNG3S/ref=psdc_2975458011_t3_B00UMXAR5S
or is it only for display lighting?

Protein Skimmer ~ $65

Lighting ~$62

​

I have experience with the protein skimmer. It work's great and like I mentioned earlier, you'd need to get two of the lighting fixtures to really cover the length of the tank and keep SPS. One will do for soft coral and some LPS.

​

You can skimp on lighting but for the most part you'd only be able to keep softy corals and it won't look as great when compared to the higher end lighting.

At the end of the day you want your corals to be able to get the PAR they need.

Thanks for the reply! I'm really thinking I'm going to make the purchase.

I'm really not sure. I know this is the tank.

I use this system and seems to work very well for my purposes for the price.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Reverse-Osmosis-50-Gallon/dp/B00204CQF6/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=ro%2Bbuddie&qid=1556424308&s=gateway&sr=8-2&th=1

Wave-point 12-Inch 16-Watt Super Blue and DaylightMicro Sun LED High Output Clamp Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ZK816S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.gSXDbDV2YG6G

No filtration besides the foam that came with the tank and rarely a little carbon bag.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fluval-Marine-Aquaium-Reef-Lights/dp/B01M2WI6PT

is this the fluval you where talking about? when i got this right i need a skimmer and a heater and it should be ready to go

https://www.amazon.com/HIPARGERO-LED-Aquarium-Light-Saltwater/dp/B0727V8C5Q I recommend this light, I have 2

It will last indefinitely in a sealed bucket, but you don't want to agitate or heat it. The only danger is that alkalinity will precipitate out over time...you might want to test before you use it and adjust back to your desired range.

​

Just FYI, you can get cheap RODI systems for $60 and make it yourself too.

if ebay isnt your thing amazon has the mars aqua lights as well, 99 bucks and prime shipping

how is that confusing? my display would use the ai prime, and i would use a hardware light to power (https://www.amazon.com/Marina-Hang-On-Breeding-Box-Large/dp/B005QRDCP2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518996752&sr=8-1&keywords=marina+breeder+box)
[this] that way i can just have a brighter light specifically to use on the box 24/7.

Okay so not all RO units include the DI part by default? So, this? It seems to be the add-on DI for that RO unit. The RO/DI is the biggest 'new' thing for me to research so I am still getting a feel for how it all works, thanks for pointing out this one didn't have the DI.

Yeah I agree I don't want to be using shady water for such a small tank. My betta is in a well-planted 5.5 that's doing very well with its nitrate levels and such but I know there are a lot more water chemistry elements in salt/a reef that could go wrong.

I'd look for a used AIO setup like a BioCube 29 or 32. There might be some black friday deals on new setups. This Fluval setup is cheap for a small tank, but don't expect to do much with it until you upgrade everything.

https://amzn.to/2rYNshc 1 scoop per 10 Gal of water.

This will fix it in 2-4 days. No need to do anything else. Just remove the skimmer collector, make sure there is plenty of oxygen in the water (more water surface should be agitated)

How do you rinse live sand? Won't rinsing it basically kill it?

I have about 60 lbs of this and I just ordered 80 more pounds: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00025YVGC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I buy pre-mixed saltwater from my LFS, but I will make sure the temp is right before adding the fish.

1: http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Conscientious-Marine-Aquarist-Professional/dp/1890087998

Cyanobacteria. What kind of water do you use? Usually blooms with tap water. The first tank I had I used tap water years ago, had that stuff constantly. Chemiclean keeps it at bay.


Chemi-Clean - 2 g https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00025YRJS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ymoSDbZCX9GC3

I think if I do get it, I would ge tthat one,
I think you are talking about this
https://www.amazon.ca/Aquatic-Changing-Deionization-Cartridge-50-Gallon/dp/B00204CQF6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1474475175&sr=8-4&keywords=RODI

I would have thought this one but it doesn't look exactly right.

Hydor Koralia Nano 240 Aquarium... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0036S4YZ0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share what I got for my nano, magnet on the back to stick and very minimal, you could even get the higher gph one.

I use this as one so I'd think an old filter would work too!

That's really really expensive. Biocubes are less than that. Even their 29 is less.
https://www.amazon.com/Coralife-15607-Biocube-Size-29/dp/B007UQA7CS

https://www.amazon.com/ABI-Aquarium-Light-10000K-Actinic/dp/B00CXTZN2Q

Check these and similar products out instead.

It's RO buddy with the attached DI cartridge.

Aquatic Life RO Buddie Three Stage Reverse Osmosis, 50-Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DOG63OY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_2AuZXCATMFHrh

Aquatic Life DI Color Changing Mixed Bed Resin Cartridge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DSP57BQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_AYC81Ut4FcPwC

Is this the light you are talking about? This is actually what i was going to replace my current light with.

https://www.amazon.com/Current-USA-Marine-Aquarium-60-Inch/dp/B00GFTNG3S?th=1

Spend a bit more and get the Jebao RW-4:

http://www.amazon.com/Jebao-RW-4-Wavemaker-Controller/dp/B00MVI3BLO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449380692&sr=8-1&keywords=jebao+rw-4

Comes with a controller unlike the Hydor and can be linked to other Jebao powerheads.

I just put a Jebao RW-4 in my 20 long and its making a ton of turbulence. It has more power and settings than an VorTech MP10 and they cost less than $60!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UMXAR5S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hdsHAbSE3C8K3

https://www.amazon.com/VIPARSPECTRA-Timer-165W-Aquarium-Dimmable/dp/B00UMXAR5S?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_3

For under 260, you can get two of the VIPARSPECTRA 165W led’s. I know many people w them and they will grow just about anything.

VIPARSPECTRA Timer Control 165W LED Aquarium Light Dimmable Full Spectrum for Coral Reef Grow Fish Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UMXAR5S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CAkOAbNFCS25S

Would I be able to get away with one of these? https://www.amazon.ca/VIPARSPECTRA-Timer-165W-Aquarium-Dimmable/dp/B00UMXAR5S/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1526060598&sr=1-1&keywords=viparspectra

Similar, but the one I use has one plug instead of two, and has a timer function.

https://www.amazon.com/VIPARSPECTRA-Timer-165W-Aquarium-Dimmable/dp/B00UMXAR5S/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=viparspectra+reef&qid=1558817465&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Maybe one of these
https://www.amazon.com/OceanRevive-Arctic-T247-Spectrum-Dimmable-Aquarium/dp/B00YOYD3K2/ref=pd_sbs_86_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00YOYD3K2&pd_rd_r=A1R9Q2KMGE8TN081XDZW&pd_rd_w=KTe1w&pd_rd_wg=pDYgH&psc=1&refRID=A1R9Q2KMGE8TN081XDZW

Two of these

MarsAqua Dimmable 165W LED Aquarium Light Lighting Full Spectrum For Fish Freshwater and Saltwater Coral Tank Blue and White LPS/SPS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017GWDF7E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gex9AbNEZAEWH

>HIPARGERO LED

Is this it?


https://www.amazon.com/HIPARGERO-LED-Aquarium-Light-Saltwater/dp/B0727V8C5Q/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=HIPARGERO+LED&qid=1551196590&s=gateway&sr=8-1

+1 to this. I'd do two on such a long tank. Here's another link with more reviews: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0727V8C5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_XdcSBbV5CX20X

Hipargero Aquarium LED Lights for Saltwater Nano Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0727V8C5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eHSLAb51HNDAX

Personally I use this light for my softy 10g tank turned up all the way.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0727V8C5Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1537831505&sr=8-6&keywords=reef+light+led&dpPl=1&dpID=41mSU8tVaNL&ref=plSrch

Do you think two of these could work?
https://www.amazon.com/LED-Aquarium-Light-Hipargero-Saltwater/dp/B0727V8C5Q/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1521604911&sr=1-5&keywords=reef+tank+led

This one seems to do the trick
https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Internal-Protein-30-Gallon/dp/B0028BPRMA/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&qid=1541609626&sr=8-22&keywords=protein+skimmer+hang+on

https://www.amazon.com/MarsAqua-Dimmable-Aquarium-Freshwater-Saltwater/dp/B017GWDF7E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478884045&sr=8-1&keywords=165+watt+led+aquarium+lighting

I have never heard of your brand, and it doesnt look like it has much of a spectrum. These are dimmable too.

Intenal, but I have this in my 20g and it works well. Lot of people complain about micro bubbles but they mostly went away after a few days.

I doubt it would really be enough as far as spectrum but if you can find reviews that say it works then go for it. You can pick up a light that absolutely works here.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0727V8C5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_p3dSDb4ZCRBXM

I had a problem with Cyano, I used this stuff

Chemi-Clean

No flow on the zoas, or atleast 0 to none lol.
29g
2 ocellaris clowns and 1 banggai. 2 nassarius snails (need more CuC)

Light is : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UMXAR5S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9CLWBbGF6F2CT

Apologies for my light-light ignorance, I've been browsing the web and found a few candidates. Would one of these be more suitable?
uno

dos

I had the same issue; tried cleaning crews with no effect. Also doubled the flow by adding a second circulation pump, still to no avail.

I then tried Chemiclean (https://www.amazon.com/Boyd-Enterprises-CC02-Chemi-Clean-2/dp/B00025YRJS) and it worked really well. Took 2 days with carbon removed, but at the end of it, no red slime algae then or since.