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I got it!

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Okay, so a lot of people say to map Y to A, but that simply doesn't work. I needed to scroll down to retropad A and map it to A. A lot of what I read said to go off the highlighted button shown in retroarch which is why I was focusing so much on Y and B.

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If you're running into this issue I would recommend starting your game, pressing F1, and then heading down to controls. Scroll down just past the D-pad settings and you'll likely see something named "Auto: A (btn), (Key: x). I scrolled through the options until it said A Button (C-Down). Don't forget to reconfigure "Auto: B (btn), (Key: z)" to "B Button (C-Left) to make the B button function on the controller as normal.

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For a little background information I've been trying to get my emulators to run through steam link. I found that while project64 is a bit more user friendly, it didn't play well with steam while on steam link (tons of errors... just don't). Retroarch took a while to dial in, but I got it running smoothly over my steam link and working well with an xbox360 controller. I wanted to take things to the next level and I bought some USB N64 controllers (2 grey ones by kiwitatá and two translucent ones by miadore). When I plugged them in retroarch detected them as retrolink controllers. I could get through the menu just fine (B and A were reversed), but couldn't use the A button while in game, and B was mapped to A. That lead to a ton of googling and reading until a few minutes ago when I figured it out.

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There is definitely a learning curve, and a lot of people rip on how retroarch works with controllers, but it's actually a great way to have retroarch work with tons of different cores.

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EDIT:

The above config works if you're using the N64 controller plugged directly into your computer. I found that plugging those controllers into the steam link caused retroarch to detect them as Xinput Controller. To get it working over steam link I had to remap everything. Here's what I found:

The format is Left menu item -> Right menu item

A -> C Buttons Y+

X -> C Buttons X-

Back -> B Button (C-Left)

Start -> Start

D-Pad Up -> Up (digital)

D-Pad Down -> Down (digital)

D-Pad Left -> Left (digital)

D-Pad Right -> Right (digital)

B -> C Buttons X+

Y -> C Buttons Y-

Left Bumper -> L-Trigger

Right Bumper -> R-Trigger

Left Trigger -> A Button (C-Down)

Right Trigger -> Z-Trigger

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The only issue is this totally ruins your ability to use other controllers with this core. After making these changes I found the buttons didn't make much sense on my ps3 controller anymore. If you intend to use the N64 controllers for all N64 games this shouldn't be an issue. Keep in mind you'll also have to repeat this mapping for all of the N64 controllers you plan on attaching (just keep scrolling down in the controls menu).

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Hope this helps someone!

It's the pricier route, but I recommend picking up a Mayflash Saturn adapter with a vintage Saturn pad. I've heard shady things about pretty much all the unofficial clones for Saturn pads.

https://www.amazon.com/Mayflash-Sega-Saturn-Controller-Adapter/dp/B006ZBHXEO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539273874&sr=8-1&keywords=mayflash+saturn+adapter

https://www.amazon.com/Mayflash-Saturn-Controller-Adapter-Converter/dp/B0089O10BC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1539273874&sr=8-2&keywords=mayflash+saturn+adapter

For the controllers themselves you can find ebay sellers who do a pretty honest job cleaning up and testing vintage gamepads.

This is the right answer!

This is what you'll need as a bare minimum:

• Raspberry Pi, the latest revision 3B+ costs about 30 USD
  
• SD card with about 8 GiB, under 10 USD
  
• Micro USB wall charger, around 10 USD
  
• USB controller, around 8 USD
  
  This will be around 60 USD all in all. I advise you to go the extra mile and get a nice case and a really good controller.
  
  There may be cheaper ways but this is by far the best I have tried! Please note that you'll need a little bit of technical knowledge to "burn" the OS onto the SD card (the Pi does not have any hard disk). All the necessary steps are described here:
  https://retropie.org.uk/docs/First-Installation/

It might have somewhat better single core performance, but both are enough for everything up to dolphin, and neither of the two is powerful enough for 3DS/WiiU, so I'd just go for the overall better cpu which would be the g4560 IMO

EDIT: just do not ever buy the 710 btw. It is hopelessly underpowered, even for the low price, and will perform similarly to the iGPU of the g4560. Just use that until you saved enough money for something like a gtx 1050 or RX460(or RX560 when that comes out in a little while) and you will have waaaay more value for your money

EDIT 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z6VPo09ore8&ab_channel=Rukio-HighTechFR - gt710 vs rx460 to give you an idea. The gt710 is essentially useless for modern games, while the rx460 can run them fairly well on lower settings

EDIT 3: go for DDR4. Also, the PSU included in the case is really dodgy, so while you will probably be fine with such low-power parts, something from a more reputable brand really can't hurt

if just retro check out the retroflag genesis 6 button, its priced very well, built nice and feels great.

https://www.amazon.com/Retroflag-Classic-Gaming-Controller-Switch/dp/B07JMQ5YFL/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549591727&sr=8-3&keywords=retroflag+genesis+controller

Also,,,You can get these heatsinks :

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HPQGTI4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and a small fan to make sure you are always at 1.4Ghz...otherwise it will impact n64,psx,mame2003 emulation...you will see performance decrease as you play and your cpu heats up...thats just the nature of these chips...with fan+ heatsinks you are at 1.4Ghz all day :)

"You just wing it." That's the part that is making me pull my hair out. Why this is a problem is beyond me. Controller mapping is an issue that has been solved for decades...


But alas. How would you map a 6 button sega pad to play snes? Maybe that could give me some insights.


The reason I am so caught up in this is because i bought two Retro-bit 8Bitdo N64 controllers, but i can't get them to work correctly.


The default mapping (aka auto config) with a clean installation of retroarch, (both with default and updated joypad configs) the B button is the A button and the A button doesn't do anything. I test the controller in windows and retroarch menus. The A button is recognized as the button 1 (or 0) correctly. I even examined the .cfg auto-config file and the A button is assigned to button 0. Same thing happens with either USB or Bluetooth connection.


I am so confused. :(

I use the Gamesir T1s

https://www.amazon.com/GameSir-T1s-Bluetooth-Controller-Smartphone/dp/B06XBXHG41/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1525896418&sr=8-2&keywords=gamesir+t1s

Currently emulating over 10 systems through Retroarch and it works perfectly for my uses.

Exactly. Something like https://www.amazon.com/Mayflash-Drive-Genesis-Controller-Adapter/dp/B00QRZ1HVS?th=1

Famicon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075QJKBLV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's a Windows 10 computer and this is the controller: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WAY9848/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_MCKzG1wBcCPUo

I have four of these joysticks/buttons (they came in two sets of two), and only one of them is giving me this issue. I have no problem with any other emulator, just Retroarch.

Retroflag..

http://retroflag.com/Classic-USB-Controller-J.html

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you can switch to X-input and D-input when you plug it in hold Y or X and has turbo too... only bad thing is that the cord is about 5 feet I think.

https://www.amazon.de/Retroflag-Classic-Gaming-Controller-Switch/dp/B07HQJNJ8X/ref=sr_1_2?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=RI410C7N39WS&keywords=retroflag+controller&qid=1557836354&s=gateway&sprefix=retroflag%2Caps%2C299&sr=8-2