Top products from r/Revolvers

Welcome!

Impulses can be a good thing, and a tool to learn. But controlling some of them, as I look at my bulging, overfilled, safes, can get away from me!😅

But I don’t judge. We don’t get to choose who or what we love.

There is a wealth of information out there. I just got four new revolver oriented books this week, and YouTube has a lot of vidyas out there as well from a plethora of different peoples on the subject of revolvers. Some are BS, but some have some good info.

Four books I got in this week and the S&W Bible, if your interested. I kinda get into the history and whatnot of revolvers, 1911’s and older battle rifles. Truth be told, I nerd out on a few things, but this is the only one I have time to mention now. 😅

The Secrets of Double Action Shooting
https://www.amazon.com/dp/098883684X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_jQvZDbM33Y3FV

No Second Place Winner
https://www.amazon.com/dp/0936279095/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_FRvZDbJF4049T

Protect Yourself With Your Snubnose Revolver
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1520384130/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_bSvZDbVACJRDB

Sixguns by Keith: The Standard Reference Work
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1626546061/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_FSvZDb282B7KB

Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson (Standard Catalog of Smith and Wesson)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1440245630/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_pUvZDbMBEFA6A

Gotta go, late for work. Again....

This cheap amazon holster:

Concealment Express: S&W J Frame 442/642 Tuckable Ambidextrous IWB KYDEX Holster - Custom Fit - US Made - Concealed Carry Holster - Fully Adjustable (BLK, Tuck) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079V2X8ZH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pX-lDbJ386DDM

I opted for the ulti clip upgrade. I can wear it with athletic shorts and comfortably go for a jog. I bought the 360 when I started trail running. Not too worried about any game animals, but I wanted something light that would stay put. This holster worked well without a belt. Otherwise, I just threw it in a Galco pocket holster. Still worked great but I bought a 442 recently for dedicated pocket carry. Little more brainless should I need it.

I have these on mine: https://www.amazon.com/Pachmayr-03292-Gripper-Grips-Square/dp/B0002INPGQ/ref=pd_sbs_200_t_0/136-9582607-7530945?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0002INPGQ&pd_rd_r=61e363d3-38d8-43c4-b8b1-9ebcfd2b32bb&pd_rd_w=Q7xCX&pd_rd_wg=XkdN7&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=KEFED8YMDNCNBRRW85Q2&psc=1&refRID=KEFED8YMDNCNBRRW85Q2

I do like the grooves on this, personal preference. This grip is really good for people who are used to holding an automatic pistol grip. They can use the same grip style they are used to. I've handed this to many a shooter who has never shot a wheel gun before. It offers really good support for two handed shooting and a nice, more natural grip angle.

And I'll add this, I'm far from an expert on grips. I haven't tried a whole lot of variety. I just found something I liked and stuck with it. And I can vouch that it's worked well with dozens of people who have tried it.

Edit: I've had mine a very long time. Take some time and read about what people are saying on the reviews. I think mine are pretty rubbery but others are saying this might not be the case now.

If you are interested in an in depth answer to your question, I would highly recommend reading Ed Lovette's book on the snub nose revolver: https://www.amazon.com/Snubby-Revolver-Backup-Concealed-Standard/dp/1581605714

From my own experience, an air weight j frame in a pocket holster worked well for me. The weight and size was easy to carry and conceal, but I did not run +P through the air weight. I prefer a strong side snub carry and an weak side TDI knife as an every day easy carry. You'll have to practice a lot with the snub to be confident with it, the small frame can be challenging with +P.

If you are extremely low volume, you can get into reloading with a manual, calipers, a scale, and one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-357-Mag-Loader/dp/B00162UKXI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1524762419&sr=8-4&keywords=lee+loader&dpID=51CUdeS-ZcL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch


With some practice you can make 25-50 an hour with this. It's a little loud but eh I think it's fun.

Basic press kit:

LEE PRECISION Breech Lock Challenger Kit (Red) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ISVWC6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bupTDbW2EZCNP

Bullet dies (Lee dies work for .38 and .357):

LEE PRECISION Lee Preciesion 90964, Deluxe 4 Die Carbide Set.38 Special https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N8LMX8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kKpTDbHJ5Q5QG



Brass cleaner:

Frankford Arsenal Quick-N-EZ 110V Vibratory Case Tumbler for Cleaning and Polishing for Reloading https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MYGLJC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SwpTDbNAN79WC

Lead melter:

LEE PRECISION 90021 Melter (Grey) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00162UONY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9xpTDbKEE2RX3

Lead Dipper:

LEE PRECISION Lead Ladle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LN12Y4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_izpTDbFM3DPRA

Bullet mold:

LEE PRECISION 358-125-Rf Double Cavity Mold https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OPUDCK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XzpTDb5ZD1TQZ

Reloading guide (read the intro a few times):

Lyman 50th Edition Reloading Handbook Hardcover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HH08L1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ABpTDb4HF8JH2





Supplies:


Brass:

https://www.capitalcartridge.com/38-special-brass-s/112.htm

Primers: academy sells cci small pistol primers $4 per 100

Powder: $20 per 1lb at academy do research to find what type you want

Bullets: $30 per 250-300 at academy, I like the horandy frontier lead stuff. Or buy prefluxed lead on the reloading exchange. And melt your own.

those are normal carbon deposits, and can be removed with something like Birchwood Casey Lead Remover or Kleen Bore Lead Away cloths, meant specifically to take carbon deposits out of stainless steel (don't use on blued guns; it'll chemically remove the bluing).

Interesting that your gun has a color-case-hardened hammer; the 686 no-dash, -1s, -2s, and -3s all had silver-colored flash-chromed hammers (and triggers, like yours). The 686-4s and onward had color-case-hardened hammers. It's likely that your gun's hammer was replaced in its past.

Actually, now that I look a little closer, it appears that the hammer is a modified (and rather rare) L-frame target hammer - would have come with a wider and longer spur than the standard hammer. Yours appears to have been somewhat shortened and narrowed a little (perhaps to work with the Pachmayr Gripper grips that are installed on the gun, and perhaps the previous owner liked having a standard-width-but-not-standard-length hammer spur), but the spur is still larger than the standard L-frame hammer. That would explain why the hammer is color-case-hardened: I don't think I've ever seen an L-frame target hammer in flash-chromed finish.

Maybe I’ve been doing it wrong but I’ve been using Montana extreme copper cream for those problem areas. I have a SP101 in 357 using different types of 357 or 38 sp. Always would burn thru using brass brushes scrubbing away. I use the copper cream be sure to let it sit for 5-10 minutes. Then clean and wipe off, the bottle I guess is expensive but it has lasted me a long time and you don’t need to use a ton. I still use a regular CLP over everything after the heavy solvent cream cleaning.

Montana X-Treme Copper Cream 6 oz. Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008P8D2KO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6MF0Db79MN242

Bronze brushes and lead removal cloth:

Otis Technology 3 Nylon/3 Bronze/3 Blue Nylon 9 Pack AP Brushes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OX8IXA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7kTzDbN5B7K6T

Birchwood Casey 31002 Lead Remover and Polishing Cloth, 6-Inch x 9-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AU67BEM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bjTzDbBRE75ZF

I think you have the wrong size loader.

You’ll like the Safarilands. You don’t have to twist a knob...you just push them in.

Here’s the size for your gun

https://www.amazon.com/Safariland-J-K2C-COMP-II-Speedloader/dp/B001MYIWP8

https://www.amazon.com/Safariland-J-K2S-COMP-III-Speedloader/dp/B001G6EYM2

This is a thing that happens to all revolvers. It is carbon fouling, and it is much more difficult to remove than regular powder residue. The cylinder face will also be black with it, I can assure you.

Fortunately, it isn't hard to remove if you have the right stuff. It is only hard to remove if you're relying on a regular gun cleaning solvent.

The Birchwood Casey Lead Remover and polishing cloth will take it right out. Just hit it with the bronze brush a bit then use the cloth and some elbow grease. I have to do this after any session shooting my stainless revolvers.

https://www.amazon.com/Birchwood-Casey-Remover-Polishing-6-Inch/dp/B00AU67BEM/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw9fntBRCGARIsAGjFq5HJPE6dym28MNQSo0EoESHDbSdsfBZxOTFHxUkbuYNiC-tswwy49m0aAtRTEALw_wcB&hvadid=174202090481&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9025393&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=13495794334449664711&hvtargid=kwd-42124230785&hydadcr=24626_9648889&keywords=birchwood+casey+lead+remover&psc=1&qid=1572816688&sr=8-1