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Wheel weights can really just go anywhere on the wheel there's a flat enough spot to stick it to, but I try to get it as close to the center as possible. I use stick-on weights, but the guy who I had doing my tires before always used the clamp-on weights. Both seem just fine.

You throw the wheel with tire onto the balancer and the heavy spot will orient itself downward. Add the weights to the light end that is upward. I use a piece of electrical tape to hold weights on temporarily and add them until it's balanced enough that the wheel wont spin on its own. It's not as awesome as those big expensive machines that tell you where to put the weights, but I've personally never had issues. Just takes patience and forethought.

Here are the tool I use:

Rim savers These work very well, but I think if you have spoons that aren't flat and wide like the motion pros it can break the plastic it's made from. Mixed reviews. Some recommend three, but they're sold in pairs. I went ahead and got two sets in case I broke one somehow.

Wheel balancer I had heard horror stories about the cheaper end balancers and figured I'd just do it right the first time and went ahead and got this thing. Very solid piece of equipment.

Two smaller spoons - These work great I think. I have a slight bias toward motion pro since, in my experience, they make good stuff.

Large spoon - It's useful for the last part of the tire if you can't manage it with a shorter spoon. More leverage. Not entirely necessary, but three total spoons is ideal.

Air compressor - To set a bead you need one with a high enough PSI, but this was bought with the air tools in mind. I'm pretty sure it would be overkill for just mounting tires.

Bead breaker - There is a motorcycle specific one that I saw, but it seemed like it was designed for scooter wheels that are much smaller. I saw it in action at a friends house and it works fine as well.

There are competing brands and vendors for everything you can think of, so shop around for whatever you decide on doing. There's a good chance there's a better deal out there on something. I just use amazon for reference.

Barely...

I have three responses. 06 SV650S here. 520 kit (-1/+2, Chain and Sprocket below), K&N, DanMoto XG1 baffleless.

0) Do a Chain and Sprocket first. IMPO the PCV does little to increase acceleration, the changes are more dynamic the just raw power. (I don't know what a Zero Map is). Replacing your stock 530 pitch chain and sprockets with light weight (NOT Aluminum) 520 bits is one of the coolest upgrades. The 520 kit improve acceleration, wheel horsepower and torque by reducing rotating mass.

• Chain
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/RK-520-GXW-XW-Ring-Chain/dp/B002OMSCWK/ $95
    
• Front Sprocket
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/Driven-Racing-Sprocket-Suzuki-1999-2008/dp/B07BQJS1J4 $45
    
• Rear Sprocket
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/Driven-Racing-Steel-Rear-Sprocket/dp/B00M9M80UE $50
    
• Rivet Kit
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0087Y493A $100
    
    

1. PC V with a Dyno tune = YES! << I'm planning to get this done but not for power, I'm looking to lean out the bike for efficiency after the chain and sprocket set. I want better mileage, lower the richness.
   
   
2. PC V with downloaded maps = NO!!! << I removed mine and enjoy the bike more. It runs rich either way. Without the PCV the bike seems better across the power band. I have added a couple maps, some changes, still always rich.
   
   Note: I've had two NGK cr8e spark plugs fail/foul in the last 6 months. Care Extras with you if your running rich.

Here is the filter you need (just search for the model number on Amazon and you can buy it there. Your model number is KN-138). For oil, I run Rotella Synthetic, but any 5W-40 or 10W-40 will work (the 5 and 10 just designate the temperature at which it will still run well, ie 5 C or 10 C. I live in the north east so I go for 5 for peace of mind). Regardless of which you choose, you'll need about 2.9 quarts for a full (ie with filter) change.

Get some nitrile gloves (especially for spreading oil on the filter when you install it), shop towels for clean up, and you may want to look into getting a new crush washer for the drain bolt (not sure if/when yours has ever been replaced. They can last a while, but it's not a bad idea to replace it if you aren't sure). An oil filter clamp isn't a bad idea to help with getting them off, but I doubt you'll have issue with it. Don’t forget a good oil drain pan (I recommend this one with a screw in, top spout – this is what the oil would drain into – the oil filter holder on the top so it can drain over 24 hours, as well as a front spout), as well as a funnel to help you get the oil in.

Let me know if you need help with anything else. I've found these instructions helpful for those new to it and they are the exact same for you, too. What do you need to change the rectifier for?

I have an LED headlight assembly I'd be willing to sell you. I had it on my SV650 originally but I decided to buy a halogen headlight assembly instead because I like how it looks better than the LED. The led assembly is pretty nice though, I bought it from Amazon for $100 and it has Integrated turn signals if you decided to use them. It's still in good shape, I'd say $50 would be fair for it. Here's what it looks like on my bike: http://imgur.com/a/xraOlqr

Here's also a link to it on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078MVXJBL/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_g.RADbQ49QRX4

1. Get JIS screwdrivers if you don't have them already. The carbs are brass and it's easy to strip the screws.
   https://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=13IVJB32CWN3L&keywords=jus+screwdriver&qid=1555384541&s=gateway&sprefix=jis+&sr=8-2
   
   
2. YouTube Shane Conley. He's an automotive teacher and posts some incredibly informative videos
   https://www.youtube.com/user/conleybuilt
   
   
3. for the valves, finding the right feeler gauge was a pain. Here's what I landed on.
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0039LBDK8/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_old_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   Here's the shim kit
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000UKM6LG/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_old_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   measure the shim before you put it in. You will be doing extra work if you replace a shim only to discover it's the wrong size after install when you're double checking everything.
   
   
4. I've got a post around here from me doing shims, I'll try to find it because there's other good stuff in there.
   Found the link, looks like I got most of it. There's other good stuff though.
   https://www.reddit.com/r/SVRiders/comments/an7gab/you_guys_rock/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share
   
   
5. drop the radiator before doing shims, it's so much easier.
   
   
6. if you have manual tension adjusters, grab a set of socket extensions and flare nut crows feet
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002SRJF4?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title
   
   
7. measure and record everything, draw your own pictures and diagrams
   
   
8. telescoping magnet and good lighting because you WILL drop something, somewhere
   
   
9. check float height since you're in there already but you may not need to clean much on the carbs if there's not a power issue. The bowl gaskets do leak sometimes, might as well replace those. Definitely check the float needle.
   
   
10. when cleaning, remember the needles are brass which is soft. Don't abuse them because they're easy to scratch.
    
    Edit
    
    
11. grab a torque wrench for putting it back together and be very careful not to cross thread, the aluminum in the head is easy to rip out if you over torque or cross thread. Especially the bolts for the valve covers.

For anyone who is interested, I used VHT Gold Caliper Paint.

I kept the brake lines connected but removed the calipers and pads. Then washed/scrubbed them with soap water, followed by a wipe down with denatured alcohol to remove any oils.

Then I masked everything off, as you can see in the first pic. After three coats I was happy with how they looked. Next came a heat gun to cure the paint. About 20 minutes on each caliper.

Reassembled and was done! I'm more than happy with the stock brakes on the SV but wanted a bit more color. I'm really pleased with how they turned out!

my used bike came with napoleon mirrors (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GTWPDA/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687622&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B004WPQZTE&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1MG9R0T99H3RHBMZZGSK) that look to be made for the sv. great vision and adaptability for super low cost.

somewhat related question (but i doubt it's enough to warrant a new thread): has anyone mounted bar-end turn signals and mirrors together and know of a good combination?

So you might not remember but you gave me a bunch of info and stuff on SV's when I was choosing what kind of bike to get and ended up napping a dope deal on an 07 SV650. The first thing I did was order those exact same bar ends from OP's post. They are pretty fuckin fantastic. Cheap enough that even if they break I don't really care but well made enough that they don't move when I ride. The installation should be really easy but without any instructions it has the potential to be a pain in the ass, youtube fixes that problem.

the bar ends are like a solid 8/10. So worth the ten bucks you can nab them for here.

Nice, thanks for the update.

Did you install a relay? That may be what's causing the weird flashing. Without the relay for me was a solid light but I read somewhere that may have to do with the grounding but I'm not sure.

Just in case, here's a couple links: DIY on SVRiders.com and Plug and Play on Amazon.com. I used the Amazon one.

So it was converted by a shop in the Portland area, but they essentially just rigged up a couple Home Depot brackets to hold the speedometer in place:

http://imgur.com/tkcSpCP

http://imgur.com/hGMSl9h

http://imgur.com/wUkNzX1

And then I bough and installed this headlight unit:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078MVXJBL?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

All things considered it looks pretty good I think!

rear stand - doesn't matter, get whatever.
front stand get the kind that lifts by the steering stem, it's much more versatile because you can lift the bike up and take the forks and the wheel off. this is what I have. works great, clears the body work just fine and didn't break the bank

I will probably end up ordering this L-shaped Torx screwdriver set, so I can also give T30 a try.

If it truly is stripped, then I may have to go with the dremel method. Thanks for the input everybody.

partzilla.com is really good. Cheapest prices usually and fast shipping. 5SL-26240-01-00 is the part number for the r6 throttle tube I found out. I opted for the motion pro version of the r6 tube since it was half the price on amazon and should be the exact same as the stock tube. http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-01-0094-Throttle-Sleeve/dp/B000WJ7OIA/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

> What rearview mirrors are those? How do you like them?

Honestly, just these. They get the job done and I can more or less see everything going on behind me: http://amzn.com/B002GTKAHQ

> Do you notice a big difference after installing the aTRE?

I can't say, I haven't ridden it yet : (

> What happened? Sorry to hear :S

Some idiot kid pulled his bike out in front of me at the absolute very last possible second and gave me nowhere to go. I went over the bars and straight into the ground and it seems my fibula broke my fall. Needless to say I've invested some good money in race-spec boots this time around.

K&N filters are popular. I got lucky and scored one for 6 bucks but it's still only 12 on Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E2CVDI/

What this guy said. Get a triple tree stand, its worth the extra money and makes taking tires off 100x easier.

This is what I have as my front stand. Its solid steel tubing and I like it.

This is what I have as my rear. It does okay but it I would not put a bike heavier than the SV650 on it. I'd probably get the rear stand equivalent of the front stand I have.

I'd check your turn signal relay, or just replace it since they're cheap. It may have blown with it. Here's the one I bought to work with my LED signals, but it should work for regular bulbs as well if you're not running LED's.


https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UN4FXW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

It is under the pillion seat, as described in this forum post. You won't need to do all the stuff he does, just pull out the old one and plug in the new one.


https://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=163261

Not sure if this post is dead but I just installed these bar end mirrors and they are working out beautifully:
Amazon Link
Youtube video I watched to install them

This is what I purchased. I put them on a year ago and they are still holding and looking good. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G6188EM?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I don't know about you OP, but I wipe my bike down after every ride. It seriously just takes a minute and it is always looking clean (apart from the brake dust on my silver wheels). Buy Meguiar's Quick Detailer and a microfiber cloth. After every ride, spray this all over your bike and wipe down with the microfiber cloth. I spray this on the tank, tail, even on the front windscreen and mirrors.

I got this one, works quite well.

SKTYANTS 7" 7 Inch led Headlights with 7 inch Housing Bucket DRL Turn Signal Lights Motorcycle for Harley Da-vidsion https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078MVXJBL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1dYwDb2GWFVBQ

Napoleon bar end mirrors. I have them on mine. Love them to death. They're dense meaning they take up vibration, they are well built and don't vibrate at high revs that make most mirrors unusable. And they stay in the position you put them. And you can also flip them out of the way easily for splitting or parking. I crashed my bike, the metal, frame and all stayed together didn't twist deform or anything just the glass broke. I bought another one to replace it while waiting for cops and first responders to show up because I'll never buy any others.

Nothing has the weight, build quality and look that they do.

NAPOLEON AP Universal Bar End Mirror Black (AP-104) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GTWPDA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_dttQybBDDJQNS

eh

It cleans shit out and burns varnish and all that.

Seafoam these days is more of a fuel stabilizer (slightly) and a valve lube. as well as burns carbon :P

b12 burns crap out of passages.

seafoam es smokeh.

yes you put it in the gas.

I use seafoam when I buy a new vehicle to lube the valves as well as I like smoke :P



be careful how you mix. sometimes they don't play nice with cat converters

Not sure how I feel about the shape of those. I currently have some bar end mirrors that are round. The only complaint I have about them is that one of the mirrors frame is loose from the neck piece that holds it. It sounds like similar issues to what people have with these.

Maybe I'll try some glue or something. I just would like some solid bar end mirrors. I don't care if I have to pay more for them as long as they work well.

This is one of them

Simple mod is an R6 throttle tube. https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-5SL262400100-Grip-Assembly/dp/B005C5AMQ0

With some ingenuity you can go for a DIY fender eliminator. Looks real sharp. Guide: https://plus.google.com/photos/112703784529139043406/albums/6030360174284969649

Edit: Also forgot the TRE mod: http://www.svrider.com/tips/retard.htm

I bought this. There is a Motion Pro one also that has no grip included. I think they're the same thing. You have to file down part of the cable routing thing I think around 1/8'' to be able to open the throttle 100%. I just matched it up to the old tube I pulled off.


The grip that comes on the one I linked is a piece of shit and made my hand fall asleep in like 10 minutes, even with a fairly light grip.

I hated these because... ugly. But worse is they are too convex, almost fisheye. Very difficult to gauge distance.

These however are perfect and look waaaay better Fantastic visibility and angle of view. The only complaint, as listed in the reviews, is that they may be loose in the actual mirrors ball joint and move in the wind. I cleaned mine up with alcohol and a swab and then hit the back of the mirror with some hot glue and it's perfect. It's still moveable but not locked in place.

From my Google doc:

• gsxr front end
  
• protek ll-45 lowering links (at stock height, from previous owner)
  
• delkevic 320mm ss tri-oval slip-on exhaust (w/o baffle)
  
• vortex v3 keyless gas cap
  
• oem sv tank pad (990D0-16G00-PAD)
  
• generic mirror plug blanks
  
• mzs black shorty levers
  
• yamaha r6 throttle sleeve
  
• speed bleeders f/r
  
• targa fender eliminator
  
• targa mini oval turn signals
  
• sbl ba9s led turn signal bulbs
  
• generic led flasher relay
  
• sbl lsc-100a brake light strobe module
  
• opt7 fluxbeam cree h4 led headlight
  
• vortex steel 520 sprockets 15f/47r (15/45 stock)
  
• rk racing gb520xso chain
  
• svracing captured rear wheel spacer kit
  
• smartmoto dealer mode tool
  
• tps adjustment (set to ~1600 rpm)
  
• sv1000 air snorkel (13891-16G20)

Whoops it's actually called customTAYLOR

my bad!

Charge the battery. Then start the bike. Get a volt meter and measure the battery. Does it read 13.6/14? Then your stator is working. If its reading below 12.2/12ish then no its not.

Any cheap multi-meter like this will do.
http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Digital-Voltmeter-Ohmmeter-Multimeter/dp/B00B7CS3UY/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1426052117&sr=8-7&keywords=multi+meter

To make it easier to check You may as well buy a battery tender if you haven't already. Run the lead somewhere (I ran it under my passenger seat so I can plug in a USB adapter to charge my phone while I ride. But then you can meter off that in a pinch also. Not to mention it will slowly trickle charge you battery (It won't be fast by any means, but I've done it myself after this past winter, as my shed has no close by power and I didn't have time to bring my battery inside)
http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1426052180&sr=1-1&keywords=battery+tender


If its showing good when running you have a power draw somewhere. keep the meter connected while the bike is off. then pull one fuse at a time until it appears the load goes away(aka the voltage stays the same for a while without it draining down. Especially if its dead in 4 minutes you should be able to see it quickly). You may have a short in your lights. That's normally where I would expect it.

For generic signals you will need an adapter plate (for the front). They are like $5.

e.g.: http://www.amazon.com/Adapters-Signals-Suzuki-SV1000-Bandit/dp/B001MZVWKY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1393862757&sr=8-2&keywords=sv650+turn+signal+adapter

You may want to find some wire adapters, so you don't have to do any cutting or w/e. I cut mine but afterwards realized that was annoying because I prefer not to modify a vehicle's stock harness if possible.

http://www.amazon.com/Adapters-Signal-Suzuki-TL1000S-TL1000R/dp/B003UNAZX6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393862757&sr=8-1&keywords=sv650+turn+signal+adapter

Next: If you are using LED signals, you will need a flash fixer because otherwise they'll flash really fast. Most states it is 1 flash per second by law, see:

http://www.amazon.com/Signal-Flasher-2000-2010-TL1000R-Hayabusa/dp/B003UN4FXW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393862864&sr=8-1&keywords=sv650+turn+signal+flasher

Lastly, your lights:

http://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Indicators-Blinkers-Cruisers-Davidsons/dp/B003LTEC0G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393862886&sr=8-1&keywords=motorcycle+led+turn+signals (OR basically any aftermarket generic signals. Mine look similar to that in the front.)