Top products from r/SoundBlasterOfficial

We found 33 product mentions on r/SoundBlasterOfficial. We ranked the 22 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/SoundBlasterOfficial:

u/weaponlordzero · 3 pointsr/SoundBlasterOfficial

Ok. I’m glad you asked. Ha ha.

First, let me mention that you can use a USB cable plugged into a power source then use male to male headphone cables to get the old analogue sound but that’s not the ideal way to use the G6. In fact, sometimes I’ve found that the Switch sound wasn’t strong enough for the G6 to pick up.

Ideally, you want to use the USB. It’s worth it.

Here is what I do / have done / continue to do.

1: You can get a cable that has USB-C on one end and micro USB on the other

Cable Matters USB C to Micro USB Cable (Micro USB to USB-C Cable) with Braided Jacket 3.3 Feet in Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UUBRX0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DRGwCbRSPDZ6D

The problem is that you run into an issue when you need a charge since the USB is taken with the G6.

I also found that if you power the G6 and the Switch by the same charger, you get a power whine so you can’t plug them both into a multi USB charger. It’s too loud to ignore so that also didn’t work.

2. Here is how I solved the problem of being able to use the G6 in handheld mode and still be able to power it.

I found a dongle that lets me power the Switch as well as the G6 while still allowing me to connect to to the G6 via USB.

If you use this thing, you can connect the G6 to the USB port, connect a power source with PD to the USB power input, and connect the built-in USB-C to the Switch.

Anker USB C Hub, 3-in-1 Type C Hub, 4K USB C to HDMI Adapter, USB 3.0, with 60W Power Delivery Charging Port for MacBook Pro 2016/2017/2018, ChromeBook, XPS, and More (Space Grey) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DD8BLJW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_n4GwCbQ5671ZC

It ended up being a little annoying how short the attached cable was because it has to hang out of the Switch. I had to find a USB-C extension cable that allowed for power AND DATA transfer. Lots of power cables out there that won’t carry the data which is what the cable needs for the G6 and Switch to communicate. I ended up finding this cable and it worked beautifully:

Poyiccot USB Type C Extension Cable (3.3Ft/1M), High Speed Super Fast Gen 2 (10Gbps) USB 3.1 Type C Male to C Female Extension Charging & Sync Cable Cord For Nintendo Switch, Macbook & More (Straight) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M3OHPD7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_26GwCb8VAGK0R

The setup I’ve finally settled in on to be able to charge the Switch, power the G6, and connect the G6 to the Switch by USB is this:

Power Supply with 60W PD —>
Anker adapter in USB C PD port
G6 plugged into the USB port with a micro USB cable
Switch plugged into the attached USB-C cable built into the Anker adapter (with the USB-C extension cord I bought)
Headphones plugged into the G6

It sounds complicated... and it was complicated to figure out... but now, I LOVE IT.

u/Chastity23 · 1 pointr/SoundBlasterOfficial

Decided to look further into these cans, and found some nice plots of it's frequency response:

https://diyaudioheaven.wordpress.com/headphones/measurements/brands-a-i/dt990-pro-250%CF%89/

https://reference-audio-analyzer.pro/en/report/hp/beyerdynamic-dt-990-pro-250.php

Both demonstrate the audio sound, bit of a U shape with strong upper range peaks. Of course you can EQ this to deal with any sibilance issues and other balancing. I balanced out my Sony MDR-SA5000 headphones with an EQ and now they're somewhat magical. :) Took a lot of time and tweaking. Tho the unit can be had for $150 on Amazon from BeyerDynamic direct, and thus can be great for starting to get into Headphones.

For me, my next step will probably be the HifiMan Ananda. I'd like to check out the planar drivers. If you would be interested in trying planar magnetic drivers, you can experiment with the HifiMan Sundara at $349

https://smile.amazon.com/HIFIMAN-SUNDARA-Over-Ear-Full-Size-Headphones/dp/B077XDWT7X

u/nickeclipse · 1 pointr/SoundBlasterOfficial

Voilà une liste des 10 meilleurs haut-parleurs 2.1 pour PC de 2019.

https://www.toptenselect.com/10-best-2-1-computer-speakers/

Mais si tu veux le nec-plus-ultra du 2.1 pour PC, les Edifier S730 sont le best du best. Mais évidemment, ils coûtent un peu cher.

https://www.amazon.ca/Edifier-4009686-S730-Multimedia-Multifunctional/dp/B004EOOAXQ/ref=asc_df_B004EOOAXQ/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292986724991&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11931301424038591085&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000543&hvtargid=pla-558363278816&psc=1

Si tu regarde dans les recommandations un peu plus bas sur la page Amazon, tu vois d'autres modèles Edifier un peu moins cher, tu peux peut-être envisager un de ceux-là aussi (Edifier S330D ou Edifier USA M3600D avec un beau fini en bois noir).

Pas forcé de les acheter sur Amazon si tu peux les trouver ailleurs en ligne, c'est seulement pour référence. Edifier font vraiment des haut-parleurs de haute qualité.

Si le budget est limité, tu peux toujours aller avec les Logitech Z623 (en rabais présentement et bien cotés) ou les Logitech Z337, les Creative A250, ou bien pour vraiment pas cher, et un beau look, les Cyber Acoustics CA-3602FFP. Mais je ne garantie pas la qualité sonore de haut-parleurs aussi peu cher.

Le wattage et les dB qui en découlent ne doivent pas être extrêmement fortes. Si tu veux aller dans le moins conventionnel comme look et technologie sonore, les Harman Kardon Soundsticks III ont l'air pas trop mal. Mais assez cher. Harman Kardon est établie comme une marque de haute qualité pour les systèmes de son et haut-parleurs.

Personnellement, j'utilisent un amplificateur entré de gamme Pioneer VSX-523-K, avec des haut-parleurs Pioneer SP-BS22s et SP-C22 pour le devant, des Micca MB42s pour l'arrière, et un subwoofer Polk Audio PSW10. Mais ce genre de setup 5.1 coûte beaucoup plus cher (autour de 800CAD/548EUR, give or take). Il m’oblige aussi à utiliser un cable Optique. Ce pourquoi une carte de son avec Dolby Digital Live et DTS Connect est impérative dans mon cas, car je ne peux pas utiliser des connections Analogues (3.5mm).

EDIT: J'éviterais les Harman Kardon, surtout si tu aimes la Bass. Comparaison avec les Logitech Z623 ici: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b11JLMwe7Qc Les 2 ne sont pas très impressionnants, mais au moins les Logitech ne sont pas anémique au niveau de la Bass.

Pour du meilleur son, personnellement, j’irais avec les Edifier USA M3600D sur un budget: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WVV7Ss5m8FE

Et les Edifier S730 si j'avais l'argent en surplus: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JXjhjRx45zc

u/Scalla1384 · 1 pointr/SoundBlasterOfficial

Since no one knew, and Im hoping someone else who is in the same position as me, this will solve it for them. Astro TR mixamp works to control volume, or you can buy a cheapy audio hub like this from Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T5BG7YK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When I plugged the aux cord from line in to the mixamp, was getting a buzzing noise. So you NEED a ground loop, like this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EAQTRI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Set the audio hub or the TR mixamp as the default communications device in Windows, and now you can control incoming voice chat from Discord or whatever else. Keep in mind the G6 volume in through windows. So if you turn it up or down, voice chat will also increase or decrease. Hopefully someone else finds this helpful!

u/sagehornung · 1 pointr/SoundBlasterOfficial

Thanks for mentioning the Edifiers. Theses look pretty sweet Edifier S760D 5.1 Home Speaker System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PMDYEHK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nmSjDbY6YMQ61

u/Iamtheonlychosenone · 1 pointr/SoundBlasterOfficial

Yes. My alternative is the G6 which I intended to use with my xbox initially. I bought it before noticing the E5's issue. So now it naturally replaced the E5's role as the main audio processor for my PC's setup.

I think E5 is the only model that has two 3.5mm output jacks. To solve this problem I simply get a Y splitter like this one here: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00GN76HAG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/AndrewLB · 2 pointsr/SoundBlasterOfficial

Just to be clear, you're looking for the AD-LINK cable with 26 pin connectors that is used to connect this external console?

https://cdn.head-fi.org/a/2647875.jpg

https://cdn.head-fi.org/a/2647877.jpg

​

This is a close up of the connector:

https://img.hexus.net/v2/audio/creative/x-fi/connector.jpg

​

It appears to be a standard 26-pin D-Sub connection and from what ive seen both ends are the same. That being the case, unless Creative has some pins switched around internally on the cable, this should work for you.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Amphenol-CS-DSDHD26MM0-005-26-Pin-Deluxe-Shielded/dp/B00O072RZK/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=26+pin+d-sub&qid=1564267404&s=gateway&sr=8-8

u/sern19 · 2 pointsr/SoundBlasterOfficial

You can also buy adapters to normal toslink cable https://www.amazon.com/Tgomtech-Toslink-Mini-Plug-Adapter/dp/B00J0A27AC

I use similar one and it works flawless.

u/--SaL-- · 1 pointr/SoundBlasterOfficial

I got that as well. Might have to buy one of these.