Top products from r/Taxidermy
We found 10 product mentions on r/Taxidermy. We ranked the 8 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
1. 10% Neutral Buffered Formalin 32 Oz
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 2
Great quality product designed by respective scientists.TissuePro Technology is a biomedical technology provider in reagents and solutions used in the various biomedical fields and pharmaceutical industry.
2. Manual of Taxidermy - A Complete Guide in Collecting and Preserving Birds and Mammals
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
3. Coleman Gear and Clothing Permethrin Insect Repellent Treatment Spray - 6 oz Can
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
One 6 oz can of Coleman Gear and Clothing Permethrin Insect Repellent Treatment SprayLong lasting permethrin spray for clothing ensures a minimum of two weeks of permethrin clothing treatment protection and the bug repellent spray lasts through multiple washesTick and mosquito repellent spray protec...
4. Magic Reinforced Boar Bristle Soft Wave Brush #7719
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Reinforced boar bristleSoft bristle brush2 1/2" wide, 9 1/2"in length
5. 40 Volume Creme Developer, 16 oz
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Helps achieve the lightest, brightest results in one stepGreat when only used as a bleach boosterMaximizes lightening actionMaximum lift formulaStabilized formula
6. Plymor 8" x 8" Glass Display Dome Cloche (Walnut MDF Base)
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
SIZE: Exterior: 8" wide by 8" high (+/- .25") Interior: 7.75" wide by 7.75" high (+/- .25")BASE: Walnut color MDF (medium-density fiberboard) base is 9.5" in diameter and 0.75" thick.GLASS: Hand blown glass may have slight variations including tiny bubbles or thickening of glass at the crown.USES: O...
7. Pack Of 20 x Platinum Plated Brass 8 x 10mm Kumihimo Bell-Shape End Caps - (HA03314) - Charming Beads
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Shape/Type: Kumihimo Bell-Shape End CapsColor: PlatinumMaterial: Plated BrassSize: 8 x 10mmQuantity: 20 x
8. Artiving 6" Black 12pcs/Set Plastic Easels Plate Display Stands Picture Frame Stand Holder
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Black Plastic Hinged Easel stands are a ideal for displaying small items like photos, wedding placecards, etc;These stands are hinged so you can fold them flat for easy storage;Use these gracefully curved stands to display photos, Place Setting Cards at weddings events, business cards and more;Avail...
(Pretty sure some people will be wanting to punch me in the face for what I’m about to type down)
I used the blade from a pencil sharpener...
It’s not what I’d recommend, but if you’re the precise type and have a firm hand, it will work pretty damn fine.
I have actual scalpels I got for this purpose, but they turned out to be really dull, I’ve got a blade sharpener but it wasn’t barely enough for those, they couldn’t even cut through polyurethane.
(I could have brought them to someone even in the family for them to sharpen the edges with an electric sander, but I figured out the blade I had was beyond fine so I just decided to stick with it.)
I didn’t get any problem with it, just be very careful and try to be as precise as you can get when you get to the paws and face, one of the back legs was the only spot where I almost cut through the skin, that’s a bit of a tricky area, but nothing crazy if you put some real focus and patience into it.
I’d still rather recommend a scalpel since a pointed tip would be a whole lot more precise.
Specifically, one of those scalpels you can find at art supplies stores, the ones some use to cut stencils. Didn’t try it on skin yet, but I’m pretty familiar with those, I remember them being really sharp, plus they come with quite thin tips, working with those is a pleasure for how much control the handle and blade give you as you cut. (too bad I didn’t have one around when I needed it.)
(Also, here’s a link to a book that’s not the same one I have but actually a more detailed version. I saw there are a bunch from the same chain all about vertebrate’s taxidermy
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1473327911/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1519260528&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=taxidermy+manual&dpPl=1&dpID=51-CbwDWSKL&ref=plSrch
The one I have is really essential, it was a gift so I don’t know about the price, but my best guess would be 7~10$.
Apparently this chain is also outdated, but I personally found it quite detailed and helpful.
There are pieces from the 1930’s that look pretty great to this day, both in quality and realism, so I wouldn’t be concerned about the fact that these are reprints of old manuals. If there’s a point you’re missing you’ll still be able to find it online, I find some real helpful stuff on deviantart, YouTube and taxidermy.net
And here’s the one to the video of the squirrel skinning process, the guy here is also using the traditional method
https://youtu.be/NbAl4vhjpnA
The piece itself isn’t exactly the best, but i found this really helpful in regards of the practical part.)
What is your project like? Is this your first time tanning? Are you buying a hide and doing something with it? Or are you skinning a squirrel for the first time ever?
Assuming the last, go for just drying the hide. Save tanning for when you've done a few squirrels (when you won't put as many holes in the hide and have more to test on). It's exciting to start, I know, but it's a learning process and learning both skinning and tanning honestly might be overwhelming (especially because both take many hours out of the day). I'm still not "perfect" at skinning, and I'm learning tanning, which still seems a bit overwhelming to do.
A few things you're going to need:
 
One other thing to know is how to sew. Get a decent needle (one that isn't poorly cast/stamped and cuts into your thread with each pull of the thread) and maybe a thimble and sew those holes closed while the hide is still wet. If you don't know how (to sew), you're going to have to learn (something I'm still doing).
 
When you're confident in skinning (when it doesn't take a super long amount of time and you feel more comfortable), go for tanning. I honestly recommend not "case" skinning when trying tanning out for the first time. Completely just a slit across the back legs and one down the chest/belly. I'll simply link to my post on tanning for now since I don't have my guide for beginners put together yet. Heck, I'm still somewhat of a beginner myself. I'm just trying to find guides that actually make sense and is written coherently. No information let out. The type of guide where it isn't assumed you know everything as a beginner, y'know?
 
Edit: One thing that's REALLY important to know is drying. DON'T dry a hide in front of a heater. I learned that the hard way and now I have a squirrel with really short arms and a really short tail. ...And it had fur slipping, too, so it's (probably) pretty much not fixable (if I re-hydrate it, the top layer of skin and fur would probably peel right off).
If you get the skin off and need to take a break (say, overnight), go get some 70% isopropyl alcohol and a jar. Fill the jar rather full and put the hide right in. It should last forever. I've kept hides like that for a week straight.
find someone with Dermestid Beetles would be the best and easiest.
for DIY, you can soak/cook it in simmering water and baking soda (do not boil). 1lb baking soda per gallon of water.
but first you need to get the brains out. get into them with a piece of wire/coat hanger and scramble them up. then take a garden hose with a strong nozzle or a pressure washer and spray in there to get them out, it will be messy. be careful if using a pressure washer you could damage some of the more delicate bones.
then simmer in water and baking soda mix for 30 minutes. take it out and remove as much material as possible that isn't bone. you might have to soak it a couple times to get it all off. you can use the garden hose and pressure washer to help. a good pick, needle nose pliers, exacto knife, and wire brush will help.
once everything is removed from the skull, soak it in a water and dawn dish soap mix for another 10-20 minutes to help degrease the skull. might want to repeat this a couple times also.
once the skull is clean and dry you can whiten it with volume 40 hair developer. I use the cream developer for deer skulls but you could use the clear liquid stuff since you can soak the whole head.
So i guess rinsing and washing it is good enough, thanks,
Here is where I got the formalin from:
https://www.amazon.com/TissuePro-NFB03-32R-Neutral-Buffered-Formalin/dp/B018REELP0/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=formalin&qid=1571317664&sr=8-3
I recently purchased one of these as a display for my new Vervet skull and I think it looks quite handsome:
Glass Dome 8x8
I don't think there is really any other option with something that heavy. Command strips don't work worth beans, but perhaps you could build some sort of stand for it in the meantime like this. I have ones similar to these at home to hold up a few small art pieces and they work, though the pieces cannot be too tall or heavy, so you would likely have to build your own to be able to support this.
If you are renting, ask your landlord if they are okay with you screwing into a stud to hang something. From my experience, landlords prefer when you do that instead of just hammering anywhere or using putty/command strips because they do the least visible damage and can be re-used.
I would glue them into a bell cap or something similar and then thread the chain through that
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E3CL6IG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_.6wLBb3GHV6EW
You have to convert the proteins to polymer bonds, soak in this stuff first: https://www.amazon.com/TissuePro-NFB03-32R-Neutral-Buffered-Formalin/dp/B018REELP0/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=formalin&qid=1567485850&s=gateway&sr=8-1
then 70% isopropyl, the 98% can damage tissue.