Top products from r/Warmachine

Glue: Super glue. Plastic glue only works on very specific types of plastic, and not what PP traditionally uses (though that may change with the new plastic kits, I hear the TEP works with plastic glue, but not sure). You don't need any special type of super glue, it's basically all the same aside from the viscosity. There's basically no difference in performance between one of the expensive hobby brands and a general purpose super glue.

Brushes: In general you get what you pay for, but I would skip the branded brushes from the hobby companies. Some are good, but it's a crap shoot. Invest in some good red sable brushes from a real artist brand like Raphael or Windsor & Newton, and some brush soap. I am partial to these.. If you take care of them they will last basically forever. Good natural fiber brushes are more resilient than synthetic (in my experience), and hold their shape longer. You'll want to pick up a few cheap brushes for drybrushing, though. That will ruin the bristles. Size 2 is what I use for most of my painting. Don't get trapped in using tiny brushes. The sables will hold a fine point, even on the bigger brushes, and you want the large brush because it holds more paint in the belly and gives you more work time before it dries on the bristles.

Files: Just get a cheap set of needle files like this. However, you won't need them for a lot of things. Most plastic models can be cleaned up just by scraping an xacto blade along the mold lines (holding the blade perpendicular to the line), and even some metal models can be cleaned this way unless they are poorly cast. The files are just for the larger models or for badly cast areas.

Primer: There are too many choices here to really cover that, just use a little google-fu and see what you like. I have used everything from cheap krylon to brush on. Army painter primers are good if you are painting a set scheme because the tinted primer can double as a basecoat, but they are a bit pricy. I also use gesso sometimesas it is very humid around here, and that takes some of the variability out of the issue of priming models in a swamp.

Misc: I don't use a clamp, generally. I tend paint the models on the base. To hold them steady I usually just stick a glob of blu tack on top of a nearby bottle or object and use the bottle as a handle. Most of the time it's a can of primer I use as my handle, the larger / weighted object helps to steady the model in my hand. Blu tack also does double duty as "painter's tape" for me sometimes if I want to keep some section of a model free of paint. It's also good for removing dust from a primed model if you're like me and prime a huge batch of minis, then forget about them for 6 months.

If you're pinning models to the bases, you can also just stick the pin into the chuck of your model drill and use that as a handle.

You want Vallejo Pale Grey Blue: http://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Pale-Greyblue-Paint-17ml/dp/B000PHCNYO/ref=sr_1_3?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1419068312&sr=1-3&keywords=vallejo+pale+grey+blue

It looks as white as white but coats much better. I know that the image makes it look super grey, but trust me: when you paint it on a model that sucker looks white. Of course, it's a cool white, so if you're looking for a warm white it won't do the job. In the latter case I'd recommend Menoth White Highlight.

Plastic glue works by melting plastics together. However, PP plastics are actually a resin, so it won't work. Think of PP Plastics like Finecast (if you're familiar with GW stuff which I assume you are from having citadel glue).

Loctite gel is great. but I've recently switched to "hot stuff" and it is amazing. Sets quickly, and comes in a few strengths but I use the strongest stuff only.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006O3TNK/ref=sr_rp_1?m=ANLPKUK4M0QOA&ie=UTF8&qid=1450553110&sr=sr-1&keywords=hot+stuff+super+glue

Ahh I see that stands for Convergance now. Hold on let me pull that up. Jesus all of those are metallics aren't they. I am very sorry for you. Especially if this is your first time painting. What is your idea of how you want to paint them. At some point you will need a few other non metalic base colors I think. But that it up to you.

Now there are two things you need to know for metalic paints.

1. They don't water down the same and you have to be very careful. The way I do it is get a brush load, twirl the brush against your pallet, dip it into the water and then go at it. That should be enough water on your brush to thin it enough. However if you feel that the metalics are sliding all over the place and not being even, then go for lighter coats and no watering down.
   
   
2. Metalics have little pieces of metal and metal flakings in them. This means that when using these paints some of that will be left on the brush and in the water. This means you will need two separate water cups for when you are painting with metalics and with just basic acrylics. This also means that there will be some of this residue on the brush. I suggest that if you want to get some nice brushes and have them last longer you will want to pick up some brush cleaner. This is the shit, and if any of you other painters are reading this. Get this thing. It will keep your brushes a lot nicer and keep them working a lot longer.
   
   So again I hope this helps, and if you have any questions feel free to PM me or just comment back.

Looks fantastic. I'd throw a matte varnish on there though to reduce the glossiness and help protect your hard work against damage.

I've had good results with Dull Cote in the past. Of course feel free to use whatever brand you can get a hold of or prefer, it will protect your paint job just the same.

A really good looking and easy way to make your bones look better is paint them with Vallejo Ivory (a sort of off white color) then wash it with Vallejo Sepia (which will turn the model a dirty white / brown) then dry brush with Games-Workshop Praxeti White.

This will give you a nice aged bone appearance and look more organic.

For your metalics, you can wash these in Games-Workshop Nuln Oil to achieve a really good 'used' metal look

Here's an example of how I do bones and also here

https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-74041-Electric-Handy-Drill/dp/B000J46WZ4
This is my main work horse for pinning. Works great with the 1.25 privateer drill set. So much better than doing it by hand.

Ive used and had great success with Vallejo arcyllics. There are tons of YouTube videos on how to use the stuff. If you want a more cracked earth style desert I think Games Workshop makes a paint in a pot for that too.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005D85950/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504731728&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=vallejo+sand&dpPl=1&dpID=41yM1Ye%2BtbL&ref=plSrch

I think that's an awesome starting plan. After you get the hang of it, and start making other model purchases, you can start new painting techniques.

I really recommend getting yourself a set of helping hands.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NQ4Q4C/ref=mp_s_a_1?qid=1343171890&sr=8-1

It is not from the same company but, considering its size and cost, it is awesome, I have in it:

• 40 small bases (6 of them have swords that come out of the base)
  
  
• 7 or 8 medium bases and..
  
  
• I removed the egg foam from the top so I can fit a foam tray full of jacks
  
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Zeikos-ZE-HC36-Camcorders-Photograpic-Equipment/dp/B001HJTK5Y

I went the DIY route and have been happy with the outcome for a few months now.

You can purchase cuatomizeable foam from someone like Pelican. Then purchase a cheap big plastic toolbox. Cut to fit.

Although there's all kinds of branded equipment (from pin vises to knives to files) specifically for minis, you usually don't need to get the "official" stuff. Cheap pin vises (for drilling and pinning) can be found at any hobby shop, and my $5 set of files works splendidly.

That said, I did get the official wet pallette simply because it was much smaller than any non-branded ones and takes up less bench space. And, admittedly, I'm ok with paying for the convenience of pre-measured pallette sheets. If you wanted to try out painting with a wet palette (and you should!), you can make your own pretty easily.

You might also consider putting something over the table/desk/whatever you work on. So you don't get paint on it or accidentally cut into it with exacto knives. I just use a desk pad that I found at staples. That way I can also write notes to myself on it.

Thats the box of the old 3 model min unit. Notice how that in the description says PIP 33043? Thats the 3 man box. You could get that, and then buy 2 more PIP 33044, the 1 model Uhlan box, but that's a hassle. Any box that comes to around $50 USD will pretty much be the 3 man.


You want to be looking for PIP 33111. Thats the 5 man box. That will be closer to $85-90 USD.

EDIT: Looking at Amazon.ca, This is the 5 man box.

I bought a third party one.

http://www.amazon.com/Paint-Palette-Keeps-Paints-Airtight/dp/B000C18GTE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1346375215&sr=8-2&keywords=wet+pallet

That one. It works great. same as the PP one basically but without the flimsy hinge, and it had prime shipping!

I'd also add brush cleaner for when you upgrade to the nice brushes.
linky

I just bought one of these to try out: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HJTK5Y/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I saw someone recommend them for minis... and it's pretty damn cheap. Haven't opened it up yet though, will see how it goes.

Cheap and effective, but not exactly flashy.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P40VPU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Debonder. You can get it at any hobby store or from Amazon.

i use this to transport 50+ points of Khador

Assorted tank equipment
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006O2ZH6/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_zZeMzbZDCVBQM

Vehicle accessories
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WNCFNU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_40eMzb7XYZJWD

Military pinups in case anyone else wants to turn this thing into a trencher cake
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WSUO9SO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_p1eMzbEMFMY4S

I used Vallejo Desert Sand Gel for the bases on my friend's desert hydras.

If you let it dry most of the way, you can sort of sculpt it so it isn't just a flat surface. I used a paperclip with some greenstuff blobs to create depressions and peaks in the sand, you can't see them too well in the pics though.

This isn't exactly what you're looking for, but it's what I use for transporting models. It's a regular Plano gun case. Mine came with three layers of foam meaning you can fit two layers of models into it nicely. I cut holes for the bottom models and simply put the top layer of models in without cutting holes. Fits everything from small based warcasters to my Extreme Dire Troll Mauler.

I use Dull Cote, http://www.amazon.com/Testor-Corp-1260-Spray-Testors/dp/B0035LOUMU

Sometimes I use the non-Dull one.

You'll need to bags, one for your huge based models and one for your normal army. What I did was pick up a Plano 4 pistol gun case for $15 at Wal-Mart, and can fit my Judicator and both Vessels of Judgement(note my VoJ's are converted into hotrods so they're not very tall).

Then I put the rest of my Menoth army into a Battlefoam Go bag. Battlefoam is a bit expensive, but I've owned both Battlefoam and Army Transport bags, and Battlefoam is worth the extra money IMHO. For Battlefoam, I've had both a Go bag and a PP Warmachine Big Bag with wheels, I prefer the Go Bag as the pouch on the front of the Big Bag annoyed me to no end.

This is my STUPID CHEAP case I got on amazon: linky

It has pluck foam in between egg crate foam. I am using it to transport 35 points and basic equipment (glue, measuring tape, extra bases, file, cards) now and it still has room for more.

I saw some reviews saying it didn't come with pluck foam anymore so I was initially nervous but figured at $12 I could provide my own if it was necessary (it wasn't). Ordered it about a month ago and could not be happier with the purchase.

edit: Here's a picture of what's currently in it to give you an idea of the size: http://imgur.com/a/iaMIA

Go for it! This was just some GF9 flocking\rocks and some green stuff to hold the crystal which was this from amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002A9UJU/ I think you could get a 40mm sized crystal and it would work too.

Did my first game with this on the table tonight with the Recon scenario. Never once used it, however it did get focused to hell and died to corrosion on the top of turn 3.