Top products from r/XboxOneHelp

If you need recommendations, since 2013 I've been simultaneously switching between the official MS plug & play kit and the Insignia branded version (from Best Buy), both of these are excellent IMO; the MS branded pack is 1400 mAh (that's your charging capacity), while the Insignia is 1200 mAh, but the difference is hardly noticeable. And they still hold a charge like a champ.

Recently, I've added the AmazonBasics brand battery packs to my arsenal. Depending on your console model and entertainment center setup, they have a nifty charger that plugs right into your Xbox and nearly looks like a part of the system. I managed to pickup the version of the charger meant for the original Xbox One on a steep sale, and even though I had to get creative to use the charger itself, it was still 2 battery packs for the cost of one of the other single battery kits--and all of these battery packs are capable of being charged through the controller (or through the AmazonBasics charger, btw).

Here's some links (apologies for the formatting, I'm on mobile), but ofc feel free to shop around to see about better pricing:

Microsoft Xbox Play & Charge Kit (currently $25)
https://www.xbox.com/en-US/xbox-one/accessories/batteries-chargers/play-and-charge-kit

Insignia Charge & Play Kit (currently $20)
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-charge-play-kit-for-xbox-one-and-one-s-controllers-black-green/7435018.p?skuId=7435018

AmazonBasics Controller Battery Charger for the original Xbox One (currently $20, should be links on the page for the "S" compatible, as well as standalone battery packs with cables--but the cables do not hold-ups well according to reviews)
https://amazon.com/dp/B071LQD2XD/

If your PC is a desktop, you can buy an HDMI-to-whatever input your monitor has adapter and switch the cable out to play X-box. If it's a Laptop (no video input) or you just don't like that option, there are a few choices.

1. With multiple LAN adapters on the PC (WiFi and wired) you should be able to
   a) connect the PC to the internet via WiFi
   b) connect the PC to the Xbox via cable (I highly recommend getting an inexpensive Ethernet switch here to plug in between the two)
   c) from network and sharing center choose "change adapter settings" right click the WiFi adapter and choose properties, then the "sharing" tab and select "allow other other network users to connect through this computer's internet connection" this should allow the Xbox to go through to the internet.
   
   

2. if there's a wired connection to the network that has the internet you can spend a few more dollars and buy a managed switch (https://amzn.com/B00N0OHEMA), which would allow you to plug the PC and the Xbox both in to the switch, connect it to the internet plug and program it so that the xbox and the PC can talk to each other and the internet, but not allow other traffic into either.
   
   
3. If it's a wired connection you could also buy a wireless access point or wireless router set to access point mode, and set up a mini WiFi network that only you have access to.
   
   
4. Get a Wifi Range extender (https://amzn.com/B01HPDWVD8), connect it to the WiFi internet source, connect the PC and the Xbox to it, either with Wireless (should have it's own SID) or with available Ethernet ports.
   
   Most of these will take a little configuration effort, you'll want to make sure both the PC and the Xbox are getting their IP addresses from the same place (not one from the school and one from your router) and you want to make your little Local network is isolated from the rest so you don't go assigning IP addresses to other students, but with hardware available these days it should be pretty simple and straight forward. I have not tested and do not endorse any of the products I have linked here, just chose them as examples of the type of device to look for and to show that there are inexpensive options out there.
   
   Good luck!

The one you have does ATSC, which I s over-the-air (OTA) which just means the stuff that you need an antenna for. That's usually only a few channels, as you have found.


You need something that does QAM, which is the digital method. This one looks like it will: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BFIJQ10/ref=pd_aw_sbs_1?pi=SS115&simLd=1

Edit: I just double checked and the website for Mediasonic specifically states non of their boxes do QAM. Definitely your problem. Looks like there are a lot available that do... so you should be all set. Maybe check the XB1 setup before you order to see if it supports whatever tuner you order.

If you have a standalone mic, you can get something like this and plug the headset into the headphones port and the mic into the mic port. That should work, but I don't know how you'd keep the mic close to your face while gaming. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I3A47I4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CopSDbBXTWCPB

I guess any clip on mic that uses a 3.5mm jack would work in combination with that, and you can get zip ties or something for better cable management with the headphone wire.

You want a toslink to RCA converter. Something like https://www.amazon.com/Portta-N3DASMP-Premium-Converter-Headphone/dp/B007S6U7I4 (first hit I found) but there are many out there.

The replacement power brick arrived, and is working so far (at least for the less-than-an-hour I've tested it). It does make some noticeable fan-like noise, but easy to drown out with actual gameplay/movie sound.

If curious, this is the one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y2LGTW3/

Looked on amazon for mine and got a turtle beach audio adapter that comes with some extra features for about $40 (https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Beach-Headset-Controller-Superhuman-Hearing/dp/B00PWRYKDE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540687064&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=xbox+one+audio+adapter) but otherwise there are some 3rd part audio adapters and of course the official xbox one audio adapters but from what I saw they were $60 USD or more.

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Active-Adapter-Support/dp/B008O7RH5C

That's the reason. Xbox One's are HDCP 1.4 and HDCP 2.2. It depends on the content you're trying to display and the tv you're trying to use. Here's the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014EZ7266/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Coaxial-Toslink-Converter/dp/B007S6U7I4 this to 2 of thses http://www.ebay.com/itm/Female-RCA-Y-Splitter-2-Female-RCA-Combiner-Converter-Adapter-Jack-Ship-from-USA-/150668940541 and use one of these http://files.cablewholesale.com/hires/2rca-ste.jpg (to pc) and a headset on the other outputs

I bought this a few years ago for the damp problem when I upgraded a tv but used an old receiver. It’s been running every day for 3.5 years. I preferred this over others because of the built in amp. I’ve got the basically set up as a pre amp to receiver.

SMSL SD-793II Optical Coaxial DAC Digital to Analog Converter Built-in Headphone Amplifier Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A2QLPJM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iXWmDbXF0QZGG

> Can you point me in the direction of a guide to fix it? Thanks for the response, also.

r/AskElectronics can help you find the problem and fix it. You will need a soldering iron and related accessories. This is what I got for myself to fix my mouse:

• AmazonSmile: FX60101 by Hakko
  
• AmazonSmile: T19D24
  
• AmazonSmile: Elenco Soldering Iron Holder
  
• AmazonSmile: MAIYUM 63-37 Tin Lead Rosin core solder wire for electrical soldering (0.6mm 100g)
  
• AmazonSmile: LA-CO 22101 Regular Soldering Flux Paste, 2 oz
  
• AmazonSmile: OMorc Desoldering Wick, Solder Sucker & Solder Braid (2.5mm Width, 1.5m Length) – Desoldering Vacuum Pump Solder Removal Tool
  
  You will save money in the long run by fixing your stuff. Use your rights or lose them. Right to repair was first lost when consumers started tolerating proprietary batteries. Then proprietary non-replaceable batteries (NRB's). Then disposable devices. Then pre-paid charging. Then pay per charge. It keeps getting worse. The only way to stop it is to go back to the beginning and eliminate the proprietary NRB's. Before you can regain the right to repair, you first need to regain the right to open your device and put in new batteries.
  
  There are 2 subreddits committed to ending the reign of proprietary NRB's:
  
  
• r/AAMasterRace
  
• r/18650masterrace
  
  Another notable subreddit with right to repair content:
  
  
• r/StallmanWasRight
  
  You can learn more about this issue here:
  
  
• Hackers, farmers, and doctors unite! Support for Right to Repair laws slowly grows : r/AAMasterRace, crossposts, more crossposts
  
• Saving Mankind from self-destruction: A "repair economy" might fix more than just stuff. It could fix us as well. : r/AAMasterRace, crossposts, more crossposts
  
  > research found repair was "helping people overcome the negative logic that accompanies the abandonment of things and people" [...] relationships between people and material things tend to be reciprocal.
  
  
• Reasons to repair : r/coolguides, crossposts
  
  A few other subreddits to help you or inspire you to fix your stuff:
  
  
• r/fixit
  
• r/easyfix
  
• r/ifixit
  
• r/kintsugi
  
• r/Visiblemending
  
• r/techsupportmacgyver
  
• r/hackedgadgets
  
• r/mobilerepair
  
• r/appliancerepair

Also since your other hard drive is probably fine buy one of these suckers and turn that bad boy into an external drive so you can store more games... If for some reason you dont want this one or dont wanna use amazon and you decide to do your own search for an external hard drive enclosure just make sure its usb 3 and fits 2 2.5 inch hard drive.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M08LCXW/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_awdb_6aPzCbCYJD052