Top products from r/askanelectrician

We found 29 product mentions on r/askanelectrician. We ranked the 217 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/askanelectrician:

u/SadZealot · 2 pointsr/askanelectrician

Looking through the options I can't really find an affordable, convenient option for this that wouldn't be a chinese product with little support and that wouldn't be a huge headache.

Without knowing about the specific family of home control/ app economy you use its hard to recommend any of them at all but I can tell you what I would do for the highest quality experience and ability for expansion.

Buy a contactor like this. Put it in a box, put the plug into the box, put a light switch on the wall, tie it into the coil of the contactor. Get a generic wifi light switch that works on 110 that ties into Google or Amazon that's cheap and easily replaced.

This is the best full product I could find but it's zwave so you'd need a hub, it costs twice as much as putting a contactor in and you have to hardwire it anyway.

To be fair though I'm in industrial automation so my solution to most problems is to put relays in it

u/Dondervuist · 1 pointr/askanelectrician

I suppose you could do that, but it's definitely not ideal. You'd be essentially drawing power for up to 10 devices off of one outlet if you plug the 10 switch PDU into one of the outlets of the power conditioner. I assume it would probably be ok since both devices are rated at 15A, but I can't find any information on what one individual outlet on a power conditioner/strip is rated for.

If you're absolutely dead set on getting the 10 switch PDU and you still want a minimum level of filtering and surge protection, I would probably get something like this Furman power strip and plug the PDU into it. It still offers a standard level of EMI/RFI filtering and standard level surge protection and it's only $34. Plus, it has a built in circuit breaker so it would shut off in the event that anything did get overloaded. Along the same vein, this one has slightly better filtering and better surge protection for $43 and this one is the top-of-the-line one for both filtering and surge protection for $90. I would go with one of those if you want the filtering. (probably the $43 one if it were me)

Alternatively, you could forego the filtering and just get one of these for $10. That would at least give you the surge protection. The difference being, without the filtering you might notice a hum in the speakers or pick up radio stations in your equipment, etc. The filtering just lowers your noise floor to some extent and helps keep unwanted interference out. If you never use a microphone or electric guitar/amplifier you might not need it (except for the speakers). I would say surge protection is a must though.

Edit: I just found this two-outlet surge protector that has almost double the joules rating for surge protection as the $10 one-outlet surge protector I mentioned earlier and it offers EMI/RFI filtering (probably not as good of filtering as the Furman ones, but it still has some). That would probably be a good choice also.

Sorry for the wall of text, there are just so many options!

u/bigtips · 3 pointsr/askanelectrician

Soldering iron, $9. Solder, $2.50. Some shrink tubing, $3.50.

This will do for 90% of casual hobby electronics, for a grand total of $15. If you enjoy it, you'll upgrade the iron (and still be able to use solder and heat-shrink).

You need to learn to solder, but it's easy.

u/portaadonai · 5 pointsr/askanelectrician

I would not LED strip, its clumsy, lots of parts, and so on


  1. I would repair the wire connection and use a candelabra LED bulb [I think candelabra is the right socket shape?], which will put far less strain on the weak splices than the old light did because LED uses far less amps. Thats the easy option, use the brightest bulb you can find
  2. Adapt to a normal socket size [you lose space in the glass cover because of the adaption] Use 100w LED bulb
  3. LED light engine retrofit
  4. Replace the socket with a Type A normal socket size, which opens a vast number of LED light bulbs to you, like this very bright LED bulb [you have to check how long these special bulbs are, minus screw base, plus the socket depth etc]
u/mtrayno1 · 1 pointr/askanelectrician

It is a Despard toggle switch and Despard receptacle

Your seems to be installed incorrectly since the receptacle isn't proud of the mounting plate. Looks like there is a good chance that something plugged into that receptacle could short against the mounting plate.

u/impressive_specimen · 1 pointr/askanelectrician

I was looking at this one. One that you wire in to the bathroom of a house. Figured since I was planning on forcing air through a filter, overshooting the CFPM's would be a good idea, even though it will be a pretty small area.

u/SgtMac02 · 0 pointsr/askanelectrician

What's the difference between T8 and T12? Looks like the currently working one is T12.

This one should work, right? I'm not looking for anything fancy. These were cheap shitty lights that I'm only planning to use for my garage at home. My lighting sucks and I do a lot of DIY work in the garage.

EDIT: LMAO! I'm at -1! Who the fuck downvotes comments asking for help and clarification in a sub dedicated to asking for help and clarification?!?! Reddit kills me sometimes.

u/loki5869 · 1 pointr/askanelectrician

The ones that I took out have two pins, the ones I replaced them with do as well. These are the ones I picked up to replace them.

I was thinking of swapping it out with a T8 and getting new T8 lamps as well, just write off the $7 on the replacements. I did find a T12 ballast online though that I figured would be just as simple a fix and would use the new lamps I just picked up.

u/SmokyD7 · -2 pointsr/askanelectrician

Get a kill-a-watt for the fridge and unplug the stove for a few days. There are tags on the router, tv etc that will tell you how much current they draw. All this is enough to give you a good idea of what you're actually using.

u/bryan7675 · 1 pointr/askanelectrician

Basic option

Sonos connect price $349

Niles 2 channel amp Price $342

Niles 4 channel speaker selector Price $260

Total $951. This is a basic setup will have one source to all rooms, which can be controlled via the speaker selector/volume control with impedance matching. So you can have music only in one room, and up to 4 rooms. Each room will have different volume; but the same music.

Impedance matching is important when driving more than 1 pair of speakers from a single amplifier.

u/birdman3131 · 2 pointsr/askanelectrician

So just replacing it you would need to verify that the conduit is providing the ground. It is done that way sometimes.

If it is the ground this should suffice.

Do note that I have no clue as to how code effects all of this. I am not an electrician I just play at one. I will let the real ones around here answer how code plays out here.

u/grunthos503 · 3 pointsr/askanelectrician

Yes. Don't use a foreign socket; just use a US one that is common in industry but not household use like L5-20R twistlock. Readily available at Home Depot but cheaper on EBay.

You can even get the extension/adapter cord available for cheap:

Look for L5-20R for outlet (R=receptacle) and L5-20P for cord (P=plug)

u/Imaelectrician · 1 pointr/askanelectrician

Run 50 amps to preferably a spa pack. Tubs that run on 120v are usually garbage and 27/32 hot tubs I've done required a 240v 50 amp breaker

u/DAWTSF · 3 pointsr/askanelectrician

Is that wire is coming from the same wire the plug is? I would just cut that plug off and replace it with an extension cord end. Something like this: If it doesn't come from the cable, I would buy an extension cord and cut it to length and rewire it to the terminals inside (may require soldering depending on the termination points).

I'd also be plugging that into a GFI outlet, but seeing as it is stationary it may not be required.

On another note, Im jealous of all those features. I put under the seat bidets in all my washrooms and will never look back, but something like this is the dream.

On yet another note, assuming you're American, be cautious, this is very unlikely to be certified and any resulting fire/issue will not be covered by your insurance.

u/SafetyMan35 · 1 pointr/askanelectrician

Hello fellow ambulance owner :-)

Do you know where the ambulance distribution panel is that distributes power to all of your lights and accessories? You will probably see the black and red power feeds coming from the vehicle main battery and alternator. That would be where you would connect your deep cycle batteries and feed from the solar controller. You will need to disconnect the vehicle main power and cap those connections off.

As for the power consumption of your laptop and gear, look at the electrical ratings for your power supply, for example, my laptop charger says it can provide 1.5A max. 1.5A x 120V= 180W max. To look at your specific gear, buy a power meter like and measure the max draw under worst case conditions.

u/uski · 1 pointr/askanelectrician

Yes, you need to get an electrician to look at this ASAP.

This is an immediate FIRE HAZARD.

Explanation : your AC outlet probably has a wire going from the main panel, and then another wire feeding the rest of the electrical system for the room (lights and other outlets). And one of these wires is not fastened properly. When you plugged/unplugged the Nintendo, you moved the wire, making/breaking the contact.

Why is this a fire hazard ? Because bad connections create resistance, and resistance create heat. Heat creates fire. The more you wait, the more serious it becomes because the heat oxidizes the wire, creating more resistance, more heat, more oxidation, and it goes on. It is a type of "arc fault", you can Google it.


You might be able to fix it yourself, it may be as simple as tightening the connections, but it could also be something damaged and the fact that you ask the question show that you do not have the skills to assess the situation and do what is required to fix it. Please get this looked by an electrician ASAP. It does NOT matter if you use the outlet or not : it is part of the electrical system, and the connection is bad, whether you use the outlet or not.


I can't understand how or why noone answered in 7 hours for such an obvious and serious situation.


Get your landlord to fix this ASAP. Again, this is an immediate fire hazard that requires immediate attention.

Suggestion : If it was my home, I'd replace this outlet with a GFCI/AFCI combined outlet, which would provide protection for the entire room for future similar faults. Cost is small compared to the overall cost of having an electrician to come. Ask your electrician.

u/Ms_KnowItSome · 5 pointsr/askanelectrician

You've demonstrated you don't know how an electrical load works, which is similar in DC and AC, based on your comments. Get through something like this before you tackle anything AC.

You can cause damage with DC stuff, but usually you'll pop ICs or other discrete components before anything too terrible happens. Mess around with AC and get it wrong and you've started a house fire or electrocuted yourself.