Top products from r/askanelectrician
We found 29 product mentions on r/askanelectrician. We ranked the 217 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
1. P3 P4400 Kill A Watt Electricity Usage Monitor
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 4
Choose from the Kill-a-Watt's four settings to monitor your electrical usageMonitor your electrical usage by day, week, month, or yearFeatures easy-to-read screenElectricity usage monitor connects to appliances and assesses efficiencyLarge LCD display counts consumption by the kilowatt-hourCalculate...
2. Universal Lighting Technologies B234SR120M-A000I Electronic Ballast, Fluorescent, T12, 2-Lamp, 120V, Black
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 2
Electronic ballastFor use with T12 lampsWattage: 59/71 WPassive power Factor correction20 ft max Lead remote mounting
3. Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/OFF controller, 40 amps record electricity consumption
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 2
Secure encrypted wireless technology and repeats Z-WaveRemotely turn load on/offReport energy usage in watts or kwhBear up to 40 amps current of resistor loadsZ-wave certification Number: zc10-14090014
4. Legrand - Pass & Seymour ACD1ICC8 Despard Toggle Switch Single Pole 15-Amp 120/277-Volt , Ivory
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 2
Dispard Switch Toggle Switch I way Ivory15 Amp 120/277 voltScrew Terminals
5. Leviton AGTR1-W SmartlockPro Dual Function AFCI/GFCI Receptacle, Wallplate Included, 15 Amp/125V, White
Sentiment score: -1
Number of reviews: 2
Offers protection from electrical fires and shocks in one device. Interrupts power if a potentially dangerous arc-fault or ground fault is detectedPeriodically conducts an automatic internal test to confirm that GFCI protected power is availablePatented lockout action prevents reset if damaged and c...
6. NETGEAR 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch (GS105NA) - Desktop, and ProSAFE Limited Lifetime Protection
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
ETHERNET PORT CONFIGURATION: 5 Gigabit portsPLUG AND PLAY: Simple set up with no software to install or configuration neededVERSATILE MOUNTING OPTIONS: Supports desktop or wall mount placementSILENT OPERATION: The fanless design means zero added noise wherever its located, making it ideal for nois...
7. Square D by Schneider Electric HOME250SPA Homeline 50-Amp Spa Panel
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Homeline Spa PackOutdoor 3R Steel EnclosureIncludes HOM24L50R 50A Main Lug Load Center2 Space Circuit, 4 Single PolesOne HOM250GFICP 2 Pole 50 Amp Ground Fault Circuit InterrupterHomeline 50 Amp Spa PanelHomeline Hot Tub/Pool/Spa Panel provides protection for outdoor circuits such as hot tub, founta...
8. Legrand 8052CC10 Medium Base Lamp Holder, Bracket Mounted 660-watt 250-volt, porcelain, white
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Keyless, single Circuit porcelain lamp holderExclusively for 19980 FixtureMade of highly-resistant insulating white porcelainMedium-Sized Base adapts to almost every spaceIncludes removable bracket mount with leadsRated for both 660-Watts and 250-Volts
9. Kester 83-4000-0000 SN60PB40 Solder Pocket Pack, 0.031" Wire Diameter
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Wire Diameter: .031"Alloy: 60% Tin / 40% LeadCore Size: 66 (3.3% by weight)Contains: 0.35 oz
10. Furman Power Conditioner (SS6B)
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
15 foot power cordIlluminated ON/OFF switchCircuit breaker6-outlet blockEMI/RFI noise attenuationHeavy-duty metal constructionIlluminated on/off switchCircuit breaker
11. Niles SSVC-4 Speaker Selector, Black
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Power Handling: 100 Watts Per Channel RMS; 200 Watts Peak. Separate left and right ground paths for compatibility with all amplifiersSelectable Impedance Magnification For 1, 2, 3/4, 5/6 Pairs Of SpeakersIndividual Room On/off Selector Switches12-step Controls; 54dB Maximum Attenuation10 year limite...
12. Niles SSVC-6 Speaker Selector, Color
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Power Handling: 100 Watts Per Channel RMS; 200 Watts PeakSelectable Impedance Magnification For 1, 2, 3/4, 5/6 Pairs Of SpeakersIndividual Room On/off Selector Switches12-step Controls; 54dB Maximum AttenuationRemovable screwless connectors accommodate up to 12-gauge wireAccommodates 6 pairs of spea...
14. (2xPCS)15 Amp 125 Volt, Straight Blade Plug, Plug, Straight Blade, Grounding,3-Wire Male Extension Cord Replacement Electrical Plugs End, Black
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
15 Amp, 125 Volt, 3Wire, 1000 Watts, Replacement Plug, Straight BladeReplace worn or broken plugs to bring new life back to power tools, appliances & extension cordsWith quality hard plastic and straight blade, 15-Amp 110-125V original 3-pin US plug for DIY electrician.Well made hinged design provid...
15. Tripp Lite 1 Outlet Portable Surge Protector Power Strip, Direct Plug In, & $5,000 Insurance (SPIKECUBE)
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
On the go protection Protect any electronic device from power surges & spikes: surge suppressor with one NEMA 515R AC outlet protects your laptops, electronic notepads, personal organizers and other portable electronic devices from dangerous power surges, spikes & line noiseReliable one outlet ac li...
16. Tripp Lite Isobar 2 Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip, Direct Plug In, Metal, Lifetime Limited Warranty & Dollar 10,000 Insurance (ISOBLOK2-0),White
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Protect any electronic device from power surges & spikes: Surge protector with two outlets protects your pc, personal computer, laptop, printer, scanner, router, phone, fax, modem, television, lamp or any other home/office electronics from dangerous power surges, spikes & line noisePremium surge pro...
17. Cooper Bussmann BP/SRU Fuse Box Cover Unit
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Receptacle & Fuse HolderMounted On 2-1/8" Handy Box CoverDimensions: 6.75"L x 3.88"W x 2.25"HIncludes fuseholder, plus a plug-in receptacle, switch, pilot lightCovers fit standard outlet or switch boxes, making it easy to turn an ordinary outlet or switch box into a motor protective deviceUnits are ...
18. Broan-NuTone 688 Ceiling and Wall Ventilation Fan, 50 CFM 4.0 Sones, White Plastic Grille
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
VERSATILE FAN: Ventilation fan helps eliminate humidity, tobacco smoke, and cooking odors. Install the compact fan between ceiling joists or wall studs - wherever it's needed most!EFFICIENT: Operates on 50 CFM and has a 4. 0 Sone rating to ensure a peaceful surrounding when in operationEASY INSTALLA...
19. Southwire 90218802 12/3 STW, 9-inches Twist To Lock Generator Power Cord Adaptor (L5-20P To 5-15R) 15-20 Amps, 2500/1875 Watts, 125 Volts
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
PRACTICAL GENERATOR EXTENSION CORD ADAPTER: this generator adapter cord converts a 20-amp receptacle to a standard 15-amp grounded receptacle with one quick twistHEAVY-DUTY GENERATOR CORD ADAPTER: a jacket keeps out the elements and protects the generator extension cord adapter for durability; the m...
Looking through the options I can't really find an affordable, convenient option for this that wouldn't be a chinese product with little support and that wouldn't be a huge headache.
Without knowing about the specific family of home control/ app economy you use its hard to recommend any of them at all but I can tell you what I would do for the highest quality experience and ability for expansion.
Buy a contactor like this. Put it in a box, put the plug into the box, put a light switch on the wall, tie it into the coil of the contactor. Get a generic wifi light switch that works on 110 that ties into Google or Amazon that's cheap and easily replaced.
This is the best full product I could find but it's zwave so you'd need a hub, it costs twice as much as putting a contactor in and you have to hardwire it anyway.
To be fair though I'm in industrial automation so my solution to most problems is to put relays in it
I suppose you could do that, but it's definitely not ideal. You'd be essentially drawing power for up to 10 devices off of one outlet if you plug the 10 switch PDU into one of the outlets of the power conditioner. I assume it would probably be ok since both devices are rated at 15A, but I can't find any information on what one individual outlet on a power conditioner/strip is rated for.
If you're absolutely dead set on getting the 10 switch PDU and you still want a minimum level of filtering and surge protection, I would probably get something like this Furman power strip and plug the PDU into it. It still offers a standard level of EMI/RFI filtering and standard level surge protection and it's only $34. Plus, it has a built in circuit breaker so it would shut off in the event that anything did get overloaded. Along the same vein, this one has slightly better filtering and better surge protection for $43 and this one is the top-of-the-line one for both filtering and surge protection for $90. I would go with one of those if you want the filtering. (probably the $43 one if it were me)
Alternatively, you could forego the filtering and just get one of these for $10. That would at least give you the surge protection. The difference being, without the filtering you might notice a hum in the speakers or pick up radio stations in your equipment, etc. The filtering just lowers your noise floor to some extent and helps keep unwanted interference out. If you never use a microphone or electric guitar/amplifier you might not need it (except for the speakers). I would say surge protection is a must though.
Edit: I just found this two-outlet surge protector that has almost double the joules rating for surge protection as the $10 one-outlet surge protector I mentioned earlier and it offers EMI/RFI filtering (probably not as good of filtering as the Furman ones, but it still has some). That would probably be a good choice also.
Sorry for the wall of text, there are just so many options!
Soldering iron, $9. Solder, $2.50. Some shrink tubing, $3.50.
This will do for 90% of casual hobby electronics, for a grand total of $15. If you enjoy it, you'll upgrade the iron (and still be able to use solder and heat-shrink).
You need to learn to solder, but it's easy.
I would not LED strip, its clumsy, lots of parts, and so on
Suggestions:
It is a Despard toggle switch and Despard receptacle
Your seems to be installed incorrectly since the receptacle isn't proud of the mounting plate. Looks like there is a good chance that something plugged into that receptacle could short against the mounting plate.
I was looking at this one. One that you wire in to the bathroom of a house. Figured since I was planning on forcing air through a filter, overshooting the CFPM's would be a good idea, even though it will be a pretty small area.
What's the difference between T8 and T12? Looks like the currently working one is T12.
This one should work, right? I'm not looking for anything fancy. These were cheap shitty lights that I'm only planning to use for my garage at home. My lighting sucks and I do a lot of DIY work in the garage.
EDIT: LMAO! I'm at -1! Who the fuck downvotes comments asking for help and clarification in a sub dedicated to asking for help and clarification?!?! Reddit kills me sometimes.
The ones that I took out have two pins, the ones I replaced them with do as well. These are the ones I picked up to replace them.
I was thinking of swapping it out with a T8 and getting new T8 lamps as well, just write off the $7 on the replacements. I did find a T12 ballast online though that I figured would be just as simple a fix and would use the new lamps I just picked up.
Get a kill-a-watt for the fridge and unplug the stove for a few days. There are tags on the router, tv etc that will tell you how much current they draw. All this is enough to give you a good idea of what you're actually using.
Basic option
Sonos connect price $349
Niles 2 channel amp Price $342
Niles 4 channel speaker selector Price $260
Total $951. This is a basic setup will have one source to all rooms, which can be controlled via the speaker selector/volume control with impedance matching. So you can have music only in one room, and up to 4 rooms. Each room will have different volume; but the same music.
Impedance matching is important when driving more than 1 pair of speakers from a single amplifier.
So just replacing it you would need to verify that the conduit is providing the ground. It is done that way sometimes.
If it is the ground this should suffice. https://www.amazon.com/Bussman-BP-SRU-Fuse-Cover/dp/B00004WA3I/
Do note that I have no clue as to how code effects all of this. I am not an electrician I just play at one. I will let the real ones around here answer how code plays out here.
Yes. Don't use a foreign socket; just use a US one that is common in industry but not household use like L5-20R twistlock. Readily available at Home Depot but cheaper on EBay.
You can even get the extension/adapter cord available for cheap: https://www.amazon.com/Coleman-Cable-Generator-Adapter-L5-20P/dp/B00004SQGJ
Look for L5-20R for outlet (R=receptacle) and L5-20P for cord (P=plug)
Run 50 amps to preferably a spa pack. Tubs that run on 120v are usually garbage and 27/32 hot tubs I've done required a 240v 50 amp breaker
2017 Journeyman Electrician Exam... https://www.amazon.com/dp/1946798002?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Would this be an appropriate outlet to use? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CG8MP9W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
thats a 'despard' switch
https://www.amazon.com/Legrand-Pass-Seymour-ACD1ICC8-Despard-277-Volt/dp/B000BQ7VVE
https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU
Is that wire is coming from the same wire the plug is? I would just cut that plug off and replace it with an extension cord end. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Straight-Grounding-Extension-Replacement-Electrical/dp/B07V5Y13X4 If it doesn't come from the cable, I would buy an extension cord and cut it to length and rewire it to the terminals inside (may require soldering depending on the termination points).
I'd also be plugging that into a GFI outlet, but seeing as it is stationary it may not be required.
On another note, Im jealous of all those features. I put under the seat bidets in all my washrooms and will never look back, but something like this is the dream.
On yet another note, assuming you're American, be cautious, this is very unlikely to be certified and any resulting fire/issue will not be covered by your insurance.
Hello fellow ambulance owner :-)
Do you know where the ambulance distribution panel is that distributes power to all of your lights and accessories? You will probably see the black and red power feeds coming from the vehicle main battery and alternator. That would be where you would connect your deep cycle batteries and feed from the solar controller. You will need to disconnect the vehicle main power and cap those connections off.
As for the power consumption of your laptop and gear, look at the electrical ratings for your power supply, for example, my laptop charger says it can provide 1.5A max. 1.5A x 120V= 180W max. To look at your specific gear, buy a power meter like https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU and measure the max draw under worst case conditions.
It's this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MBIRF5W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've read in multiple places that it will work without a ground.
Thanks!
Yes, you need to get an electrician to look at this ASAP.
This is an immediate FIRE HAZARD.
Explanation : your AC outlet probably has a wire going from the main panel, and then another wire feeding the rest of the electrical system for the room (lights and other outlets). And one of these wires is not fastened properly. When you plugged/unplugged the Nintendo, you moved the wire, making/breaking the contact.
Why is this a fire hazard ? Because bad connections create resistance, and resistance create heat. Heat creates fire. The more you wait, the more serious it becomes because the heat oxidizes the wire, creating more resistance, more heat, more oxidation, and it goes on. It is a type of "arc fault", you can Google it.
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You might be able to fix it yourself, it may be as simple as tightening the connections, but it could also be something damaged and the fact that you ask the question show that you do not have the skills to assess the situation and do what is required to fix it. Please get this looked by an electrician ASAP. It does NOT matter if you use the outlet or not : it is part of the electrical system, and the connection is bad, whether you use the outlet or not.
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I can't understand how or why noone answered in 7 hours for such an obvious and serious situation.
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Get your landlord to fix this ASAP. Again, this is an immediate fire hazard that requires immediate attention.
Suggestion : If it was my home, I'd replace this outlet with a GFCI/AFCI combined outlet, which would provide protection for the entire room for future similar faults. Cost is small compared to the overall cost of having an electrician to come. Ask your electrician.
You've demonstrated you don't know how an electrical load works, which is similar in DC and AC, based on your comments. Get through something like this before you tackle anything AC.
https://www.amazon.com/Practical-Electronics-Inventors-Third-Scherz/dp/0071771336
You can cause damage with DC stuff, but usually you'll pop ICs or other discrete components before anything too terrible happens. Mess around with AC and get it wrong and you've started a house fire or electrocuted yourself.