Ok, Thank you. Here is a similar setup to what I use. My personal one is a bit more sophisticated but nonetheless, these items will certainly get you started and aim you in the right direction.

-

Let's start with the Mixer:

Your mixer will be your new interface. Rather than plugging one microphone into your computer you'll plug all your microphones into one mixer which then will be connected to your computer via USB.

Microphone - Mixer - Computer

Here is a good starter at a decent price. It'll be your most expensive single piece of equipment (unless you decide to get top tier microphones). You'll be able to EQ and set levels to each microphone hooked up to the mixer before sending it to Audacity (or Audition, Reaper). You can also hook up more than 3 mics, a guitar, your phone, maybe you want to hook your computer up to it to play a sound, basically anything that sends one signal to another, you'll be able to do it with this and record it.

• Behringer QX1202USB 12-Channel Mixer
  
  -
  
  Next Microphones:
  
  If you're able to hook up a mic cable (XLR) to your Blue Yeti, you can still use that microphone, too. Obviously, switch your polar pattern to cardioid that way it's more directional and doesn't pick up as much room noise. Also, try to point it away from your AC unit. Regardless, since the Blue Yeti is a condenser microphone, it'll pick up more room noise because it's much more sensitive. That's why in broadcast situations you'll always see dynamic microphones such as the Electrovoice RE20 or Shure SM7b. For your own sake, I would do some research on condenser vs dynamic but any website you shop at (or if you go to Guitar Center in person) you can filter microphones by condenser or dynamic. I highly recommend buying yourself 3 dynamic microphones to reduce room noise.
  
  Here are my microphone recommendations:
  
  
• Cheap - Behringer XM8500 - You'll likely need a mount and windscreen or pop filter
  
• Low - Shure SM58 - You'll likely need a mount and windscreen or pop filter
  
• Mid - Rode Procaster - No mount, windscreen/pop filter necessary
  
• Best - Electrovoice RE20 - No mount, windscreen/pop filter necessary
  
  -
  
  Finally, your Accessories:
  
  You'll need 3 XLR's to hook 3 microphones up to the mixer. I recommend purchasing them from monoprice.com - very cheap cables that last a long time if you learn to wrap your cable correctly.
  
  Same with your microphone stands:
  
  
• Simple Tripod Microphone Stand
  
  Most microphones you buy will come with the mount for it. If you get the Behringer XM8500 or the Shure SM58 you might need one of these if it doesn't come with it:
  
  
• Mount
  
  Also, for both of those mics I definitely recommend buy either a pop filter or wind screen to put over top to reduce plosives. If you don't know what plosives are, google it. You wont need to worry about plosives if you purchase the Rode Procaster or RE20.
  
  
• Windscreens
  
• Pop Filter
  
  
  One very last thing to mention is headphones. Through the mixer, there is a headphone jack where you can plug headphones in to monitor the mix. However, there is also something called "Main Out" or "Control Room Out" - you can send your vocal mix to an external Headphone Amplifier/Splitter that way you and your friends can all listen to the mix in real time.
  
  Audacity is a good program but I recommend getting familiar with Reaper The trial version is free version and I think after the 60 day evaluation you're still allowed to use it although it may press you to buy it. I personally use Adobe Audition but that requires a subscription. If Audacity works fine for you, then by all means.
  
  I apologize for the long post and I hope it's not too overwhelming. Mixer, Microphones, Cables, Stands, and headphone splitter is basically what this whole post is about! Feel free to ask questions.
  
  If all else fails just find a podcasting kit to purchase from somewhere and go from there http://www.bswusa.com/Podcasting-Packages-BSW-Internet-Radio-Going-Pro-Kit-Dual-P10534.aspx

It's really, really hard to isolate sound in a room that hasn't been specifically treated for it. A shield like that might help, but you could also find success literally by just hanging quilts or moving blankets over the door. Perhaps even choose a room with a good amount of furniture.

The Blue Mic is a great choice for an all-in-one solution, but you might find better success with a clean dynamic microphone. A popular model for podcasts/radio is the Shure SM7B, which is obviously out of your price range. An SM58 might also work well. The issue with something like the Blue Microphone is that it's more of a condenser-style mic, so it will pick up a lot of the room. Whereas, one of the two mics I just recommended will tend to pick up mostly only what's right in front of the mic. But, for those microphones, you'll also need an audio interfaceto connect to your computer.

With all of that said, I would honestly not worry so much about getting an ultra-clean sound. You'll need to spend more on equipment to achieve that, and honestly, because it's an office and not a treated studio, you'll have trouble. For podcasts especially, as long as you aren't getting noise that drowns out the voice, I think you'll be pleasantly surprised at how much slack a listener is willing to cut you. At the end of the day, they'll probably be listening to the podcast in their car or on earbuds on their commute. Therefore, a lot of room tone and background noise will go unnoticed.

I hope this was helpful.

That might work out better than what you have, but if you really want quality audio, you need to invest a little more into it. Getting a proper condensor mic like the Audio Technical AT2020 here would be a great place to start. You would then probably need an audio interface to connect it to like this or a mixer like this. Do your research and a lot of it. There are a lot of good options out there to improve your audio quality, but all options involve investing a descent amount of money as hard as that is to hear. Research, find what you really want no matter the price, and save, save, save until you have it.

If you want to get the most out of your new gear, you should buy a DAC. On-board sound cards are not high quality and you'll be better off getting your DAC chip out of the electrical shit storm going on inside your computer. You can spend anything from $30 or so up to the price of a new house on a DAC. The Behringer UCA202 is popular at the $30 range. If you want a nicer one, I'd recommend the Schiit Modi. And it goes up from there.

As for an amp, opinions vary. Most audiophiles will tell you an integrated amp is better than a receiver, and separates (a power amp and a preamp) are better, and dual mono all the way through is even better (separate amps for the left and right channels).

You could get a craigslist or eBay special and be perfectly fine. If you want a popular and solid integrated, the Emotiva Mini-X a100 is on sale for $170. Emotiva is the kind of the go-to for a lot of budget-minded audiophiles.

Lastly, while those speakers are going to sound very nice, "absolute best" is not only a relative term, it costs a lot more to achieve. Check out /r/zeos/ for a lot of good information.

These are your best bet in my opinion. They will sound better than that logitech system, and probably last longer as well. With the logitech system you are tying yourself down to using their sub, which means that if you decide you want better bass in the future you will have to either scrap the whole system and start over with dedicated speakers, or try to reuse the Logitech speakers and end up with something sub-par. With the Miccas, you can just add an RCA splitter and a subwoofer and be good to go.

If you want even more flexibility, go with the unpowered Miccas and get an amp like the SMSL SA50, which will be more power than you would ever need for those speakers for near-field (close up) listening.

To save a little money now you could also go with the Micca MB42 instead of the MB42x. The MB42x come with an upgraded crossover and according to most reviewers it is very much worth it to get the upgraded version.

If you really want your system to last a long time, you are much better off separating your components. Get a pair of speakers, get an amp for the speakers, and get a sub all as separate components. That way, you can upgrade components individually in the future without needing to scrap the whole system like you would need to do with the Logitechs. This also applies if a component breaks; you can replace one thing at a time. And even without upgrading, you will still end up with a much, much better sounding system for not much more money.

Noob indeed, but great to illustrate how to approach signal chain issues.

Always start with the signal source device and media. Most modern devices are capable of reading and outputting a variety of audio formats. If you have stereo speakers, that is the output setting you want in your player's settings. You now need to know which physical connections output that stereo signal. It is possible for that output to be RCA usually red and white and/or 3.5mm audio out. The 3.5 mm might say line out or headphone out. Headphone out is probably (always?) amplified and adjustable using the volume on the source. Line out is not amplified and adjustable only post-output (almost always. I had a Peavey powered mixer that broke this rule).

So now you have speakers or headphones you want to connect. If speakers, are they self-powered? If so, do they have connectors matching your outputs? If so, use the appropriate male-to male patch cable. If not, can you use an RCA to 3.5mm adapter cable? Or 3.5mm to RCA adapter? Chances are good for one of these. But if audio is HDMI only, use something like the device linked earlier to create it.

Now have a listen. If it sounds good, you're golden. If not, does it sound like your content is being obscured by white noise? If so, you need a ground loop device. I bought one on Amazon recently for about $10. I will try to find a link. It is also possible if the output is headphone/amplified, to need an attenuator.

Lastly, when getting help on connection issues, it always cannot hurt to include all devices you want in your signal chain including source, output and processing devices.

Edit: link to ground loop device... Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

The Swans M10 are very good for their price (currently $90), but naturally there will be much better sounding systems at higher price points.

If you can stretch your budget to around $260, this would be a decent setup you could put together for that price:

• Micca MB-42X Bookshelf Speakers ($90)
  
• Orb Audio Mini T V3 Amplifier ($73)
  
• Polk Audio PSW10 Powered Subwoofer ($99)
  
  I believe either of the systems I suggested fit the bill if all you want is something enjoyable for casual listening.
  
  But if you can hold off on buying until you have a bigger budget, either of the two recommendations made by /u/animus_desit are excellent choices at their price point and would let you hear just how great a good 2.1 speaker setup can sound.

Something like the Blue Yeti may suit. It's a multi-pattern USB microphone. If your mixer is worth its salt, you should be able to output from your computer via an audio interface or simply use a line out to a separate channel.

I personally use the Audio Technica AT-2020 XLR version (this also has a USB version) for recording a bit of vocal work, including rap and some spoken word stuff. It works great on voice and acoustic guitars. However that doesn't solve the lack of phantom power. If it picks up too much ambience (which it definitely can) ease off on the gain a bit and speak louder.

A dynamic mic like this Nady may work as well, however this type can be quite sensitive and will pick up ambient noise.

I don't know if your budget stretches this high ($430), but the Electro Voice RE20 is in my opinion the gold standard for spoken word and radio type stuff that isn't a condenser microphone. It's dynamic, so it doesn't require phantom power, it has a cardioid pattern which will help filter out ambient noise and it just sounds fantastic to my ears. Even though it is quite pricey, it will stand the test of time and providing you take care of it, it will hold its value.

TL;DR: No phantom power requirement, not too sensitive, inexpensive. Pick two.

(Just realised the Shure SM58 might also fit the bill, but it won't give you that sexy radio voice. However, you can abuse the hell out of those things and they will still work and ask for more.)

Hope I've been helpful.

Those are regular passive speakers. They do not contain an amplifier (hence no power cord or batteries), so you will need an amplifier to put between them and your laptop. The amplifier makes the signal strong enough to physically moves the speakers. (Your laptop has a weak amplifier in it, but only strong enough to power headphones.)

One popular cheap amplifier is the SMSL SA50. I've never used it, but it's less than $70 and should be pretty adequate for your purposes. A nicer way is to buy a stereo receiver, which will have a remote, better circuitry, the ability to switch between several sources, and more, but those start at around $150-200 minimum. (Although if you are knowledgeable and careful, you can find used receivers on craigslist for far less.)

Anyway, most amplifiers have RCA inputs, so you will need a 3.5mm (same connector as headphones) to stereo RCA cable for connecting your laptop to the amplifier. Then you need speaker wire for connecting the amplifier to the speakers.

well to start, those are crap speakers either way. two 3.5" woofers means they will have zero bass, which completely defeats the purpose of tower speakers

second, you screwed up by not doing proper research. most speakers (aka passive speakers) have wire terminals where you connect them to an amplifier

you can buy a cheap amp on Amazon for $20 which will work. but my honest recommendation is to sell those speakers for whatever you can get and getting these Dayton bookshelf speakers and this Lepai amp. it'll sound better than those 'towers' and take up less room. yes, it'll cost a bit more (depending on what you can sell the Monster towers for), but if you plan on listening to anything bass heavy, you'll appreciate the better quality speakers (note: yes I know the B652s don't measure anywhere near flat, but for a layman, they're a good first step)

Your best bet is probably a really long mono 1/4" cable run of 50 feet (shouldn't be too terribly long for the laptop to power without interference, since "sound quality does not have to be perfect" as you say) with a 1/4" to 3.5mm adapter on one end.

Alternatively you could get a smaller 3.5mm headphone extension cord from RadioShack or Monoprice (the latter being preferred, with RadioShack as always being for time-sensitive emergencies only). Then put a 3.5mm to 1/4" adapter on the end of that to plug the speaker into.

Basically, any way you can adapt those jacks to fit the cables should get a signal across for one channel. All you need is two conductors and the right connections.

Then you should just figure out if your soundcard or OS or audio player has the option to "mix down" the stereo to a single channel (mono), or figure out how to put whatever audio you want to play in a single channel. I believe a stereo-to-mono adapter will take everything from the Left channel, so use that if possible.

If that doesn't work, or if it's important to have the data for both channels accurate, you could get a Mixer like the Behringer 502 for super cheap, and plug the stereo laptop into that using a 3.5mm to 2x 1/4" Y cable such as this.

Should work if you just connect it :)

Hey mate, i hope this isn´t too late for some advice.

​

So first and foremost, congrats on a nice pair of cans. your motherboard has a dedicated audio solution, which shouldn´t be to bad in the first place, but to improve upon that i would recommend the fiio 10k

https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1543003652&sr=8-1&keywords=fiio+10k

it´s a pretty nice headphone amp/dac combo, which competes with a lot of pricier solutions, and for listening to music and gaming, you won´t find anything better under 200 bucks.

​

while the guy at the music store is technically correct, the sterling is of course a headphone amp as well, but as soon as he heard the words gaming and pc, he should have known this ain´t what you´re looking for...so return it, thats the wrong kind of device...you need a digital analogue converter, that has an amp integrated.

We're gonna need your budget in order to help. But A 2.1 setup is definitley the way to go to upgrade ehar you have. Sell those. They are very popular. If you want strictly a computer speaker setup, a 2 channel amp is probably fine. My bestbuy has a really weak bookshelf speaker selection, but you probably at least have the pioneer andrew jones speakers. They are well reviewed. If you have a nice discount they might be a good idea. Also a simple rule is the bigger they are, the louder and lower they get.

/r/zeos has a good 2.1 guide and /r/budgetaudiophile has great extensive speaker recommendation list. If you want to really rock, the pioneers may not be ideal.


These yamaha are massive bangers to blow your face off.

http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-NS-6490-Bookshelf-Speakers-Finish/dp/B00018Q4GA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1421977443&sr=8-3&keywords=yamaha+speakers

2 of these would be good too. Smaller.

http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Primus-Two-way-Bookshelf-Satellite/dp/B0045NCB32/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1421977463&sr=8-2&keywords=infinity+primus



Smsl amp http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-TDA7492-Integrated-Tripath-Amplifier/dp/B00F0H8TOC

Sub http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0015A8Y5M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421962220&sr=8-1


But read through the the zeos guide and the sidebars.

That Sony system sounds awful (on display at Frys). The Onkyo one I am not familiar with.

With a hard budget of 400, the Energy Take One system is out of reach as you won't be able to afford a receiver. THe lowest price on that is 370.000

Here is the speaker set I recommend: http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-SKS-HT540-Channel-Theater-Speaker/dp/B000GU78Z4/ref=cm_cr-mr-title

I own it. I needed a "hard body" subwoofer as my two toddlers have a nasty habit of destroying speakers. It does pretty well with movies and explosions, a bit boomy and lacking in tightness for music. The subwoofer alone costs 125.00. I'm using the fronts at my office, they sound pretty good for jazz. The fronts and center are identical speakers. The surround sounds aren't good for much, I ended up cannibalizing them for rears that need to be wireless (used with rocketfish) and for a set I hung on the wall for the children's playroom.

I think the set is a fucking great value, even though the speakers range from average to moderately above average. If you don't need the 7 speakers, then get the sub as a stand alone:

(http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-SKW204-Reflex-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B000HMLP5A/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1318567957&sr=1-6)

and go with four dayton b652s, which is a huge value in speaker-dom.

http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-B652-2-Way-Bookshelf-Speaker/dp/B002RMPHMU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1318568027&sr=1-1

If you go that route, the daytons have FAR less oomph than the onkyo set in terms of centers and mains, but they are more delicate and precise when it comes to most music. If this is for home theatre, I'd get the onkyo set.

As for a receiver, you have a remaining budget of 150.00-200.00, depending on which speaker set-up you went with. Here are several in that price range from companies I trust, of lines that I know represent quality products for the dollar (not audiophile receivers, but they aren't pieces of shit and the wattage ratings aren't complete shams)

http://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVR-391-Channel-Theater-Receiver/dp/B003QP3M8I/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1318568134&sr=1-7

http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V367BL-Channel-Receiver-Black/dp/B003CP0K8C/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1318568134&sr=1-10

Or if you stretch a little bit, here's one under warranty from Amazon for 225.00 that seems like a great deal:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004O0TRCO/sr=1-1/qid=1318568598/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me=&qid=1318568598&sr=1-1&seller=

Basically, there's two components to think about. An amplifier takes power and audio input (as stereo RCA plugs or a 1/8th inch jack) and outputs amplified audio (almost always as binding posts or clamps for speaker wire). Speakers take amplified audio as input (again, as binding posts/clamps for speaker wire) and make noise.

Active or powered speakers just means that you're buying the amp and the speakers integrated as one unit. M-Audio AV40s are a good example of this. Scroll down and you can see a picture of the back of one speaker. Power cord, RCA inputs, and speaker wire output to the other speaker.

Passive/unpowered speakers mean you're just buying the speakers, and you need to buy an amp separately. A good example of this is the Micca MB42x and Lepai LP-2020. Again, look at the back of each one to get an idea of how they're connected.

If you want simplicity, go for a pair of powered studio monitors. However, what you trade off with that is upgradeability - because monitors are integrated all-in-one, you can't easily add to them later on.

If you want to go the component route, I'd recommend a 2.1 amp (meaning it has outputs for 2 speakers plus a subwoofer) such as the Lepai 168HA. Add in some unpowered bookshelf speakers like those Micca MB42x, and you've got a great system for less than half your budget. Depending on how much room you have on the floor near your desk, you can also add a subwoofer, either now or at some point down the road. The Dayton Audio SUB-800 for example is small enough to fit under a desk pretty easily, and would still be within your budget.

As you don't explicitly state that you're using an amp of any kind I'm going to assume you want to run your headphones off whatever you buy? If this is the case I would not go with a UCA202/222. The headphone output is pretty poor - certainly the weakest part of it. If you are plugging into an amp then it's fine but if you're using it to drive the headphones I wouldn't personally bother.

Now, if (and only if) the SPDIF (optical digital output) is still working on your soundcard, I'd go for an SMSL SD793II. This has a better DAC than the Behringer and has a very good headphone amp built in. The only downside is that it doesn't take USB inputs, you need that digital signal from your soundcard to plug into it. This is my recommendation - with the extra lead you may need to by it is probably bang on £50 and worth every penny.

As for alternative solutions, if you could happen to find another tenner then the Fiio E10K would be perfect if your soundcard's optical out not work and you need to hook it up via USB.

If you can't find the extra money and your optical out is buggered, then the SMSL M2 is a good option. Meant for portable use but nothing stopping you using it as you need to.

TL;DR SMSL SD793II.

I use this and am extremely happy. It's an analog setup and I only use computers, so that is fine with me, but if you want to use it with game consoles / DVD players / STB's, you might want to get an actual receiver (I've heard good things about Onkyo's TX-NR series.

• Tripath amplifier
  
• Dayton speakers
  
  
• Polk PSW-10
  
• A RCA piggyback cable setup to run audio to the subs and the mains, not using a crossover on the mains right now but I plan on getting one or building one at some point.
  
  This setup is really cheap but very very good sounding for the price, plus if you want to upgrade to a 5.1 or something with a receiver later, it makes a great secondary system for a kitchen or bedroom.

You need a 3.5mm stereo TRS to stereo RCA adapter. They're extremely common, should be very easy to find. Just like this, but I'm sure there are other options for cheaper. That's just the first link that popped up. (And actually, I recognize those plugs as being not the best. It's better when the four leaves of the outer ring of the RCA plug don't come full circle around, they spring in and out and grip better that way. Funny thing is that style tends to be cheaper, so look around a bit yourself.)

Don't listen to the other guy telling you to buy a DAC for plugging into some cheap boombox. That's like putting a spoiler and spinning rims on a Prius. Your motherboard's output audio is just fine for that gear. (Honestly, probably higher quality than the speakers. See if you can find a used Klipsch Promedia set or something.)

When it comes to a good staple dynamic microphone, the one that almost always brought up first is the shure SM-58


https://www.amazon.fr/Shure-Microphones-dynamiques-SM-58/dp/B000CZ0R42/ref=sr_1_2?__mk_fr_FR=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=39IZTQXPHV3KA&keywords=shure+sm58&qid=1562894271&s=gateway&sprefix=shure+sm%2Caps%2C228&sr=8-2


and a great starter interface that works with it is this unit from behringer


https://www.amazon.fr/Behringer-UMC22-U-Phoria-Interface-entr%C3%A9es/dp/B00FFIGZF6/ref=sr_1_1?__mk_fr_FR=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=BDMR9OGTFJDR&keywords=behringer+umc&qid=1562891547&s=gateway&sprefix=behringer++umc%2Caps%2C-1&sr=8-1


then you'd only need your own choice of stand, and an xlr cable and you're good to go


and of course, an advantage of using an interface with your microphone is if you want to get a better setup, you don't have to replace everything all at once

​

you can add to the setup, or replace parts one by one as you wish.

Do NOT get any internal sound card!!! I can't say this enough. People kept telling me and I didn't listed. I bought 2 of the best sound cards and had to return them due to interference. Get a DAC like the Schiit Modi 2 (Modi 2 Amazon link) or Modi 2 Uber and save yourself the frustration and have much better sound.

For speakers, check out the JBL LSR305 (Amazon link) (Amazon link with cables) or if those are too expensive check out the Micca MB42X. They're both great speakers. I got the JBL LSR305 about 6 months ago and they sound amazing with my Schiit DAC. Check on eBay too. I got a brand new Schiit DAC for about half the regular price and they have used ones even cheaper.

I'm not sure about listening to both through the TV itself, but you can output your TV's audio as well as your phone's audio through an audio mixer or an A/V receiver and into a speaker system. A mixer like this or a reciever/amplifier like this would work just fine.

There are benefits for using both. A/V receivers are optimized for home theatre systems (processing both audio and video signals from separate devices, hence "A/V") and can output audio to a surround sound system, whereas mixers are usually used to process audio only (used in music studios/concert venues/home recording.)

For the simple purpose of playing two audio sources at the same time I'd go with a cheap mixer, but if you are looking to upgrade your home theatre system in the future, then maybe consider investing in a receiver. You'll need a set of speakers for either one, and probably adapter cables if using a mixer.

Oh in that case I would switch up it

​

Interface - The one you had didn't have Phantom Power (48V), which is required for 90% of condenser microphones, I wouldn't buy an interface without it. Focusrite is going to offer better preamps, expandability, and is just a better offering. Yes this adds +$20 but if I were to compare value add I would say the Focusrite interface adds $100 if not more over the Line6.

https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T50LY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Focusrite+Scarlett+2i4+USB+Audio+Interface&qid=1565645877&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Microphone - while that AT2020 is a nice microphone, I wouldn't be an audio nerd if I didn't recommend consider trading it out for a Shure SM58. It's a rite of passage mic, it's going to sound good out of the box, but you can learn how to make it sound even better. It's also going to pick up less unwanted noise (mom yelling that hotpockets are ready, cops bursting in your room when you been swatted.

https://www.amazon.com/Shure-SM58-LC-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B000CZ0R42/ref=sxin_4_osp1-d1fabffa_cov?ascsubtag=d1fabffa-c2ec-4fa0-ae31-2e07a178f49c&creativeASIN=B000CZ0R42&cv_ct_id=amzn1.osp.d1fabffa-c2ec-4fa0-ae31-2e07a178f49c&cv_ct_pg=search&cv_ct_wn=osp-search&keywords=sure+sm58&linkCode=oas&pd_rd_i=B000CZ0R42&pd_rd_r=a40496d4-0539-4f37-a1f5-06c41f3afb62&pd_rd_w=zLA9w&pd_rd_wg=YvsDi&pf_rd_p=c501273b-119a-4fc9-ad78-eda5006b0be9&pf_rd_r=K79XXEN93XVP9C4Z5Q2R&qid=1565646518&s=gateway&tag=popularscience_os-20#customerReviews

​

The boom arm you have will work with any mic so you leave that.

​

If your budget is strict here's a bundle that has the Scarlett Solo and the AT2020, which has solid reviews.

https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Interface-Bundle-Microphone/dp/B07V4MNBMX/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=Focusrite+Scarlett+solo&qid=1565646973&s=gateway&sr=8-10

Hey there :) thank you so much for your reply

The reason for which I wanted to go for for an amped signal into onboard sound card was that I wanted to eventually get a good PCI-E sound card for virtual surround sound for gaming. I was looking at mixers like this.

I'm now going to start to look for a USB sound card that facilitates good ingame sound -> virtual surround sound capabilities. In case you have recommendations (I need to make full use of the potential of the Teufel Real Z, I want good audio quality, and at the same time I want to be able to have it calculate virtual surround from gaming audio output), please tell me what you would get!

What my standard recommendation is first grab this cheap Behringer usb DAC as it is far superior to all On-Board Soundcards.

Next for amp I recommend either a used dedicated stereo amp if you can find a good one OR this $99 T-Amp

Bookshelves although you will still be lacking in low end will be superior quality mid's and highs. The standard cheap recommendation are a set of $30 Dayton B652's

That leaves only ~$70 for a subwoofer if you think you need one. Even a little 8" will support those B652's to a more suitable level.

First, I'd like to point out that in your situation it would be redundant to run your mic through the mixer and then through another interface (unless your mixer has incredibly awesome pre-amps, which is something I'd argue most Behringer products lack).

If I were you, I'd ditch the $10 mic for a used SM58, and the Behringer usb mixer for a decent cheap interface like the PreSonus Audiobox, or if your budget permits, something from the Focusrite family.

That said, you may be able to increase your sound quality 10 fold just by upgrading the mic and leaving the XENYX. I don't have any experience with either of those products, but they are by brands I would warn any newcomer to steer clear from. Good luck!

As others have said, simply search Amazon for "Bluetooth Receiver" and pick one you like in a price range you can afford. You will find hundreds of them.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=bluetooth+receiver&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

And then using, most likely, RCA-RCA cable of the appropriate length, connect the Bluetooth Adapter to the CD Input on the Amp, and logically select CD on the front panels source selector of the Amp.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-2-Male-RCA-Audio-Cable/dp/B01D5H8P0G/

Though there are many similar RCA-RCA Cables to choose from -

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=RCA+cable&i=electronics&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

You would prefer to have a Bluetooth Adapter that supports version 4.0 or higher, and that has the APT-X or APT-X HD feature.

The ESINKEN and the LOGITECH look pretty much identical, check the specs, but likely either one will do, both about $22 -

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Bluetooth-Audio-Adapter-Streaming/dp/B00IQBSW28/

https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Adapter-Streaming-Wireless-Speakers/dp/B016NUTG5K/

Range on the above is pretty much standard at 30ft to 50ft line-of-sight.

There are better Bluetooth Devices, but they cost a bit more money -

https://www.amazon.com/Avantree-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Certified/dp/B01H6I3YGK/

https://www.amazon.com/Avantree-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Simultaneously/dp/B07BQYYDNJ/

Again, how far do you want to take it, because there are Bluetooth Devices that can go well above $100.

Those are fine speakers for the money. Any name-brand receiver with the features you need should be fine. Check out here: http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/category/avreceiver/home-audio/receivers-amps/home-theater-receivers/1.html

In terms of subwoofers for a smaller budget, look into these:

• Dayton Sub 1200 ($130): http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-SUB-1200-12-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B00669L3HS The cheapest subwoofer I would actually recommend for a home theater setup. A nice review here: http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/speaker-subwoofer-reviews/71766-dayton-audio-sub-1200-subwoofer-review.html
  
  
• BIC F12 ($185) a step up from the Daytons in terms of output: http://www.amazon.com/BIC-America-F12-475-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B0015A8Y5M
  
  
• NXG NX-BAS-500 http://www.radioshack.com/nxg-nx-bas-500-12-500-watt-powered-subwoofer/55058551.html I use this subwoofer for my office. Good output and surprisingly musical for the price. IMO, this is the best subwoofer under $300. A review here: http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/speaker-subwoofer-reviews/67178-nxg-nx-bas-500-subwoofer-review.html

You're unlikely to find a mixer that has those inputs built in. Your best bet would be to use adapters for all those sources and just plug those in on the 1/4in jacks. Keeping in mind though that you should also look for mixers that support panning individual channels; each jack on a mixer typically just supports mono audio, so you'd have to send it back to left / right.

For example, I use a Mackie 402 on my desk. If I want to plug in a stereo line on channels 1 and 2, that "STEREO PAN" button has to be enabled to keep it from mono'ing them both.

Off the top of my head, something like the X Air series supports linking two channels and simultaneously controlling them + L/R panning them, for multiple channels, which you would probably need with your amount of inputs. A quick look and the Mackie ProFX12 would also probably suit your needs. Both of these are probably a little overkill for exactly what you need, but generally they both have the ability to properly handle your sources once they're in 1/4in form.

I'm kind of going on at length on this because I 100% did not consider it as a problem to be aware of when buying my mixer for my purposes and just lucked out that everything works.

For those adapters, a bluetooth receiver and appropriate cables for that particular unit, optical converter, and if "A/V audio" means RCA, just slap that RCA-1/4 from earlier in as well.

Soundbars are going to incur the wrath of the users so beware. How much under $200 are you talking? If you're right at that mark you could probably get an AVR and some speakers for a basic 2.0 setup. This would be the best way to go as you can build up a better system in the future.

AVR $110+shipping should get you to about the $130 mark.

Speakers

• Micca MB42x $80 If you can afford them they are the way to go.
  
• Micca MB42 $50 on sale...same as above without the xover...buy these and then add the x over if you need to save up some cash. The x over kit is only $30 and can be ordered online.
  
• Yamaha $50+shipping I've never heard them but they do fit the budget and Yamaha usually does good stuff with audio.
  
• Dayton B652 $50 cheapest you're going to find. The last resort before heading to goodwill...which probably would be a decent option too.
  
  If you still want a soundbar that's another conversation.

I don't actually have one of these subs, but I'm 99% sure you will not be able to use the sub to power the speaker outputs. The speaker level inputs/outputs are used to get a signal to the sub after it has already gone through an amplifier, and the sub's built-in amplifier is only used to power itself. You can definitely still use the sub by getting an adapter cable to run from the TVs 3.5mm output to the subs RCA Line In, but you will need to get some sort of amp/receiver for the bookshelf speakers. It doesn't have to be fancy, I've used small cheap amplifiers to power speakers and while it wasn't audiophile quality, it was definitely better than the TV speakers.

3.5mm to RCA cable

Small Amplifier I've used before

You certainly can go cheaper than that. You’re just plugging in a mic/guitar/headphones yeah? If so you can use pretty much any USB interface with 2 inputs. Should be around $100

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07664LMPQ/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B074F2V6VJ/?th=1&psc=1

That’s your best option, the cheapest option would be to continue using your Yamaha mixer, and to connect the LINE OUT from the mixer to your computer using a cheap USB converter like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KW2YEI/

Not sure what perspectives you are looking for but here are my thoughts. :)

I am more on the Pro Audio/recording side of things but you can run the music from anything that plays YouTube and get a mic/interface that can be plugged into any pro system. (Your living room setup can become a karaoke machine)

The standard mic for live is a Shure SM58 which is not too expensive. Then you can get a used audio interface to run the sound from your computer. For example the PreSonus AudioBox USB. Granted, you would need speakers but could plug into your current home Audio system or buy a bundled system with a mic, interface, and speakers, etc.

The advantage of using the computer is you can easily record her singing! Just another route to consider, although I suppose the appeal to a machine is simplicity and having it all in one box.

Yep, nomnommish gave you great advice for a budget system to listen to CDs if you don't need tons of power. Another speaker option that might work well for this setup would be these Dayton B652s.

Good luck with your system. Let us know how it works out for you.

Very cool. I wasn't 100% sure those existed until I looked. Something like this will only work with powered studio monitors (not passive ones, those would require a separate amp).

This is a much nicer suggestion than that other one I looked up - both of these were just quick Google searches, not well researched on my part. https://www.amazon.com/Rolls-MX42-Stereo-Mini-Mixer/dp/B00102ZN40/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1539275837&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=stereo+mixer&dpPl=1&dpID=517QoJlNM0L&ref=plSrch

And the cheapest mixer you could go with

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-502-BEHRINGER-XENYX/dp/B000J5UEGQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1539276002&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=mixer+audio&dpPl=1&dpID=51GyTA4WTHL&ref=plSrch

Although, honestly, I'm not sure I'd get a behringer for something that I would trust to be on all the time. Their build quality isn't great (they're the cheapest for a reason). If it were me, I would get that $50 rolls above. It's simple, unpowered, and will probably be reliable for decades and the extra inputs and volume attenuation would make it far more usable. Just my 2 cents!

Then mostly you're gonna be doing a home audio entertainment setup, which IDEALLY, you would want a receiver. But good ones can be expensive.

Actually I would recommend a really simple device for this and just get this

https://www.amazon.com/Rolls-MX42-Stereo-Mini-Mixer/dp/B00102ZN40/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1511663554&sr=1-3&keywords=stereo+mixer

The MHC GX250 is an all in one bookshelf system and is designed to be used with the speakers it came with.

The JBL J216A would be better with a true stereo or AV receiver or amp.

To connect a subwoofer without a subwoofer pre-out RCA jack, Speaker Wire Only Sub Hookup if the subwoofer has high level speaker wire inputs.

Stereo receiver: Onkyo TX-8020

AV receiver: Denon AVR-S540

Power amp: Audio Source AMP100VS

Mini amps:

• SMSL SA36A $52
  
• SMSL SA50 $68
  
• XtremPro Audio Amplifier DAC 22W class A/B power $100.
  
• Topping MX3 $130 with USB DAC and bluetooth.
  
  Home Audio Guides: Intro to home stereo systems • Zeos Tutorials, Diagrams and Videos • r/Audiophile Getting Started • Beginner's Guide to Home Audio • AverageJoeAudiophile's Guides • Speaker Placement for Stereo Music Listening.
  
  Also check out r/BudgetAudiophile
  
  Like panoreddit said, for recording and mixing, studio monitors are often the preference. The popular JBL Professional Studio Monitor 5" LSR305 for example.
  
  ​

Game engines use their own 3d stereo sound processing so virtual 7.1 isn't really worth much. I would recommend getting an external sound card (DAC/AMP). I would recommend this http://www.amazon.com/AUDIOQUEST-DRAGONFLY-V1-2-USB-DAC/dp/B00H00VLZQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1426275640&sr=1-1&keywords=audioquest+dragonfly or this http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1426275640&sr=1-6&keywords=audioquest+dragonfly

You could also peak around /r/headphones. There's a ton of discussion there about these things. There's no upper limit to quality or what you can spend on Digital to Analog Converters and Amplifiers.

You could also just search amazon for sound cards, but if you're only using it for headphones make sure you're not wasting money on cards that have speaker outputs. The one's I recommended aren't cheap, but you will appreciate the quality.

I don't know if they're still available but a while ago I got a Polk PSW505 which is now discontinued. They used to sell for $5-600 but after they were discontinued, they were still being sold new-in-box for $199. I got one at that price and it's pretty damn nice, it won't play low enough to handle m.A.A.d city but it's about as good of a sub as you can get at that price.

Just checked, Amazon still has them: http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-12-Inch-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B000092TT0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381375448&sr=8-1&keywords=psw505

I would also look into this: http://www.amazon.com/BIC-America-F12-475-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B0015A8Y5M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1381375448&sr=8-3&keywords=psw505

and this: http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-SUB-1200-12-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B00669L3HS/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1381375448&sr=8-13&keywords=psw505

That makes it easier. You can try the simplest solution first, use an AUX cable from the line out on the second PC into the line in on the primary and enable "Listen to this device" under Windows audio settings.

If you want to use hardware, you can get small stereo mixers in varying prices. There are passive mixers that could lower the volume on the stereo channel and active mixers that can keep the volume but also boost it.

Those are the best results I could weed out on Amazon that has stereo channels but I have no clue about the quality of those mixers as I have never used either of them. You will also need 3 pairs of 3.5mm to RCA cables, two for the computers and one for the headphone.

I meant route the signal just straight out of the device (computer/console?), skip the headphone controller part. You don't need the processing in it, the receiver has processing if it's surround sound.

I also looked at the manual again, the easiest thing for you to do is to take the green one only (the stereo / front), and use a 3.5mm adapter to red white RCA cable adapter. They are super cheap. Then run it to the stereo rca input on your receiver. You can still do Dolby surround processing from it.

So the options are:

A. If the main issue is that you want a surround sound signal to your receiver from whatever you are plugging the headphones into, then skip the headphone unit and go: computer -> receiver HDMI.

B. If the main issue is that you want the control / switch on the headphone to work then use the 3.5mm to RCA adapter, so: green headphone wire -> receiver RCA

C. The most expensive option is to buy a receiver with the inputs like I showed the picture of in my last comment, your cables will match up to the inputs, that would be: all headphone wires -> receiver pre-decoded input.

Okay, yeah the mixer will almost assuredly be nearby the PC so 1/8" to dual RCA it is!

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMR-206-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O33

Thanks a bunch! I clearly over-complicated the analog conversion in my head.

Okay. So if I understand correctly your cable only has one 1/4" connector, right? Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-110-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O36 ?

If so, the issue is that you're trying to connect your PC's stereo output (meaning it has two channels, left and right) into a balanced input (a more advanced for of a mono one channel input. Look up balanced signal if you want to learn more). The mixer input is not designed to handle a stereo signal, so it won't process it correctly.

Ideally, you should use a cable that has two 1/4" connectors (one for the left and one for the right) like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000068O3C and plug them into 2 separate channels on your mixer.

We're going to need more information to be able to help you.

What are you trying to accomplish? It sounds like you might want a mixer with [at least] one mic input and be able to control the volume of two separate outputs from it. Is that correct?

If so, nearly any mixer will work. Here's one: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-502-Premium-5-Input-British/dp/B000J5UEGQ/ The Main Outs are two mono outputs controlled by one knob on the bottom right. The Phones output is a second stereo output controlled by the other knob on the bottom right. Since it sounds like you only want a single mic, the signal is already mono, so either output will work the same.

First double check that your PC doesn't have a combo jack (3.5mm analog and 3.5mm optical in the same port). a lot of modern PCs (especially macs) have this and if that's the case this is your best bet for audio. This is what you'd want.

​

If you're using HDMI output (especially if you're using a receiver or multiple HDMI inputs), something like this is a good choice.

​

If not, your next best bet is a internal soundcard with optical output (like this one) if it's a desktop, or an external USB soundcard with an optical output if it's a laptop (like this one).

​

If neither of these work, and/or you're on a device that only has a 3.5mm analog output and nothing else, you can use one of these with one of these adapters. It's known as an analog to digital converter (ADC) and will take in analog (RCA/3.5mm) and convert it to a digital format like optical. This isn't super recommended, as it add extra conversion steps to the process and will reduce the sound quality of your soundbar somewhat unless you pay out extra money for a high quality professional ADC.

None of the above.

At your price range don't expect much. Something like this will be much better than any of those though:

Amp, speakers. Then save some more money and buy this sub in the future. Not going to be a world better, but much better than what you posted.

Update: the radioshack switch didn't work at all. For whatever reason the audio coming in on its RCA video input didn't trigger it to auto-select.

What I did find, though, is an equally good solution that works for my case. Since I only plan on having a single input playing at a time, I can use a mixer to achieve the same goal. All inputs all the time, instead of playing just the one with music on.

Similar incongruous options compared to what I want, but at least options are out there. Most seem targeted at 1/4" and Mono inputs/ouputs. A lot have 1 set of stereo-capable RCA inputs, but I specifically need (at a minimum) 2 sets of stereo RCA inputs. I could also use an adapter to convert to stereo 1/4", but pretty sure all the 1/4" inputs are mono. Here are some examples that might work:

Looked good at first, but complaints that the output is too weak (it's passive apparently)
http://www.amazon.com/Rolls-MX42-Stereo-Mini-Mixer/dp/B00102ZN40

3 stereo RCA inputs & stereo RCA output:
http://www.amazon.com/rolls-MX51S-Mini-Mix-Mixer/dp/B0002BG2S6

Has 2 RCA stereo inputs, but A/C adapter is sold separately and it's radioshack brand...
http://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-Stereo-4-Channel-Microphone-Mixer/dp/B0050ZP1OU

BIC America F12 for $183.45 I paid about $250 for it about 6 months ago.

There is a pretty good chance I have the same receiver as you.

This sub shakes my entire 1800sqft house. It gets uncomfortably loud with plenty of power to spare.

FYI, if your receiver is anything like mine, you will have to set the front channel speaker type to "small" in order to get output to the sub in a 2.1 configuration, or you will have to set the output mode to 5/7 channel stereo.

The easiest solution to this might just be a $30 USB DAC, like the Soundblaster X-Fi Go or Behringer UCA202. They'll easily let you record two channels of audio, and monitor it with standard headphones.

If you have 2 devices and you want them both in your headphones then that's perfect for a basic mixer.

However the MX400 looks like it's mono, so not the right one for what you want. Look at stereo mixers like this one.

Edit: or this

TV - Panasonic VIERA TC-L47E50

Amplifier - LP-2020A+ Lepai

Analog Audio Source - Logitech Wireless Speaker Adapter

Digital A/V Source - Apple TV

Speakers - Micca MB42 Bookshelf Speakers

The TV does have an optical audio out, which leaves me in the same position as before; as well as a component audio out, which bumps me up a step in that I don't need a DAC anymore, but I'd still need a selector. Obviously that's no big deal, I could easily get one, but if I can be finicky for a moment - I'm fixated on the notion of having the scheme outlined above.

I'm starting to strongly consider the DIY route, and maybe even integrating the DAC into the amplifier, with both analog and digital inputs, and a switch for source selection. Do you have any resources you've used in the past that you think might be helpful for this?

If you can, go down to somewhere that sells all the speakers you are considering, bring along some of your own music that you know well, and listen to each set of speakers until you decide which pair sound the best to you. Different people will hear things differently and you can't always trust a review to be right for your ears. Reviews are good for things like general build quality of the device and things like that.

I'd go with the mini to 1/4" cables. No need for TRS because the mini end is unbalanced by default anyway.

You don't need anything else to hook these speakers up. No interfaces required. The audio output from the MB is already doing that work for you.

Well I'm still learning a lot, but I've had experience with them and some of the other budget offerings.

In the $70 range you're best bets are the Dayton B652 and the Micca MB42X and then used any decent stereo amp you already have or find something on CL or buy a Lepai 2020A

This will do the trick: 1/8" TRS to dual 1/4" TS.

Here is a setup tip:

1. Turn the gain on the monitors all the way down to the minimum.
   
2. Turn the volume on the Mac all the way up to 100%.
   
3. Start playing a song (you should not hear anything).
   
4. Slowly turn up the gain on the monitors until it gets as loud as you would ever want it.
   
5. Done.

Yeah I have enough mixer inputs but I need to get an adapter to convert my PS4 and WiiU audio into 3.5mm. Could I use something like this? Or do I need a full on converter like this?

Edit: Nvm I do need to box.

This combo has been very nice for me. Input for my PS4, Alexa, PC (through usb), and phone audio.

Here’s a diagram I made on my phone. Running audio for an event at the moment.
https://i.imgur.com/Z6zhI4P.jpg

Plug the usb card into your PC. plug the items into the mixer. Plug the Audio output from the mixer into the IN channel on the usb audio card. Flip on the “Monitor audio” switch. Plug your headphones into the convenient jack on the USB audio card.

ALTERNATIVE:

only buy the usb audio card. You don’t need a mixer. Get a 3.5mm stereo to RCA stereo (headphone jack to red white cable). Plug this into the in slots on the usb audio card. Plug the card into PC. Plug headphones into jack on the card. It has a volume knob on headphones that will let you control it.

I would heavily recommend the usb audio card I linked. If you want more versatility, grab a mixer too. Message me if you do grab anything and need help setting it up.



BEHRINGER XENYX 502 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000J5UEGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YzONBbJV9RHD7

BEHRINGER U-Control Uca202 Ultra Low-Latency 2 In/2 Out Usb/Audio Interface With Digital Output https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TAONBb1FJ01ZQ

Not the most elegant solution but something like this: https://www.amazon.com/KK-R1-B2-D1-Banana%EF%BC%884banana%EF%BC%89-1-64Foot-Pair-3-28Foot/dp/B01MQ1URD8

These would be some amps around your price range, RCA in with Speaker out. That may be the better route.

https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC

https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Audio-Amplifier-Professional-Speakers/dp/B071XQGYRJ

I definitely want my speakers to be running through a DAC if I have one, but thanks for the input. This was recommended by Zeos so I'm going to try it and see how it goes.

How do you find the Fiio E7? Is there any background noise/interference when using it with headphones?

I never seen a motherboard to have a decent dac. It would be best if you take an external soundcard/amplifier. This is very cheap and very good for the money:

http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412753782&sr=8-1&keywords=fiio+e10k

Yes, you could leave the receiver on, it would use a lot of power though. You can get a cheap digital amp that would be much more efficient, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F0H8TOC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eUygAbEA4RYCG

if you're not a discerning listener, then really any amp will work for you. The only amps that I know of that have a lot of analog volume wheels are the FiiO brands. They're actually pretty reasonable for what you get. here's one for 75 buck that would fit your need quite well.

http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1420825350&sr=1-3

Get a tape player with an A/C adapter. Something like this.

Get a 12v inverter. Something like this.

Using the headphone jack on the tape player, they can connect a 3.5mm AUX cable in their car (assuming they have an AUX input?) and a 3.5mm RCA cable to connect to the home stereo.

*Also, if I may make a suggestion, using the car inverter > a/c adapter > AUX input in the car will undoubtedly create a bit of engine noise through your speakers. Using one of these will eliminate most of that noice.

Thank you so much, very informative and helpful, now that I look at a picture of the back panel as I don't have the monitors in front of me, inconveniently enough- it's not a 3.5mm to rca I have it's the one that goes to 2 quarter inch cables and are plugged into the "balanced" slot! Sorry that I mislead, but could I get some help on this setup?

This is the current setup with two monitors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HGM1D6/ref=pd_aw_fbt_267_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=E7THNS4Z17JSG0M5ANBF

Will the XLRs work in this case?

I'm going to assume this is an all-analog mixer. That's what it looks like. Let us know if it has usb and can act as a digital audio interface, the instructions would be different...

The only way I can imagine to do this with the parts given is:

feed mic 1 into XLR input 1 (on the mixer)

feed mic 2 into XLR input 2 (on the mixer)

run a stereo mini-jack to two 1/4" mono jacks from your laptop headphone port, using this thing- into inputs 3 and 4 (on the mixer)

or, convert a more common stereo mini-jack to two mono RCAs- this thing- to RCA to mono 1/4" jacks- these things- into inputs 3 and 4 (on the mixer)

Then send the stereo main output pair (look for "out" near the right hand side- two RCA outputs) to two input channels on the amp, if it has two inputs- via mono RCA to 1/4" cables- these guys. I can't quite tell from the pic but I see a lot of 1/4" inputs on the amp.

If there is only one input jack, just set PAN for the aforementioned channels to the center- essentially sending a mono signal to the one jack via either the left or right main output. You probably don't want a wide stereo field anyway, for an amp like this. use each input's levels to come up with a decent mix.

Like others have said, check out Micca and JBL. They both make great speakers for budget setups. If I were you and wanted to keep my budget at around $200, I'd go for the Micca PB42X speakers which are around $100 each (Amazon link) or if you want to go slightly cheaper, the older Micca MB42X are around $80 each.

Yes my goal is use the mixer to combined my xbox audio and all PC audio (including Skype, Music, etc.) Then plugging my my Audio Technica ath-m50x headphones into the mixer to hear both. The mic I am using is the Audio Technica AT2020. The problem that I am running into is the the people on the other end of the Skype call can hear my Xbox audio when I have in plugged into the channel 3/4 via the [this cable] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HGM1D6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)

Also the mixer did not come with any software. I have been looking for the properties to my sound card (which I believe is built into my motherboard) and I have found nothing that looks like it could fix the problem.

Lol I am truly sorry that you go stuck helping me. I'm surprised that you haven't just stopped replying. i really do appreciate it!

So something like this?
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01LPT8KQA/

Or this, with the appropriate RCA to 1/8" adapters?
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00102ZN40/

Note: I've never used or heard of the first link, but trust the manufacturer of the second link.

Or if you're willing to push a button to switch between the two... Again, I've not used this product:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B073GWCRP3/

Edit: also this little guy from Rolls

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/597819-REG

>Shouldn't wireless audio be noise free? I figure that it should be immune to noise since the audio is digital.

No! You might wanna google that... TL;DR: Wireless=Interference=Noise

And no, you don't need a mixer board. Since i'm assuming you're using a pc/mac, an external sound card will do.
You might wanna troubleshoot first before making any kind of purchase. You can start by plugin the monitors in different sockets around the house, or taking the monitors to a friends house and see if the noise persists. If it does, this might help: https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=lp_10981591_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1500471154&sr=1-1

My recommendation would be an external soundcard with balanced outputs (~$150-$200)

Your question is pretty confusing. Apparently you are using a computer monitor to play your PlayStation on and want to use Yamaha HS-5 studio monitors as speakers?

Yes you can send audio to the computer monitor through the HDMI cable. You don't say which monitor you are using, but apparently it has a 3.5mm output. What i think you need is a stereo 3.5mm to dual 1/4" or XLR cable. This will split the output to a left and right cable you can plug into your speakers. [Something like this] (https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6) I don't think you even need to use the audiobox because the speakers are powered and amplify on their own.

It sounds like you've got the mono output of the AudioBuddy connected to the stereo input of the Fatal1ty. Is the 1/4" plug and/or the 3.5mm plug mono (tip and sleeve) or stereo (tip, ring and sleeve, like a headphone plug)? You should be using something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP153-Cable-Inch-Dual/dp/B000068O3C

Just plug one of the 1/4" plugs into the AudioBuddy. Then record on to a mono track.

A lot of mixers have 1/4" mono inputs, but with some adapter cables I'm sure you could make something like this work.

That will be really hard. You could get a pair of Monoprice speakers for as little as $60. Then drive it with a power amp that you can get for about $40-$60. Consider the SMSL SA50 although it is a tad more expensive, or a Tripath Class T TA2020 chip amp such as the Lepai for $27. If you don't drive it hard, these TA2020 amps sound as good as $1k amps, and I am not even exaggerating. Hook it up with a $20 CD/DVD player and/or a $35 Google Chromecast that will do high quality wireless streaming audio and even supports high res audio.

Edit: The Micca speakers are also for $60.

See if you can get some BIC America Venturi DV64's. For the price, they simply can't be beat, and if you want a sub to go with them get a BIC America F12 12-Inch 475-Watt Front Firing Powered Subwoofer. BIC is one of the best kept secrets in the audio world. Oh, and if you're the least bit savy, you'll power everything with a dirt cheap, Tripath t-amp (Topping TP60 or TP41), processed by a Topping D2 DAC. It's the perfect PC/TV/MP3 player setup.

http://www.parts-express.com/wizards/searchResults.cfm?srchExt=Mfg&srchMfg=470

http://www.amazon.com/BIC-America-Venturi-DV64-Speaker/dp/B00011KLOI/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1345444480&sr=8-9&keywords=BIC+AMERICA

http://www.amazon.com/BIC-America-F12-475-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B0015A8Y5M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1345444480&sr=8-2&keywords=BIC+AMERICA

If you need a dual male 1/4" to male stereo 1/8" those cables are super common. If you need a dual male 1/4" to female stereo 1/8" those cables aren't as common but still exist.

You can also easily by the stereo audio cable and each of the connectors you need and do the soldering yourself.

3.5mm and RCA are just connectors. You can easily convert back and forth with cheap cables.

Get one of these passive mixers: https://www.amazon.com/Rolls-MX42-Stereo-Mini-Mixer/dp/B00102ZN40/ref=sr_1_7 ($49)

And a couple 3.5mm to RCA cables like these: https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Pro-PCBL42FT6-Gauge-3-5mm-Inch-Cable/dp/B004G87FL4/ref=sr_1_2 ($2.30) (You might find cheaper versions at your local dollar store.)

You should be fine running an unbalanced line level into the balanced TRS 1/4" inputs. You lose the extra noise immunity that balanced signals get, but these are short cable runs so it shouldn't be a problem. Get a PC cable that has a common stereo 1/8" (3.5mm) plug at the laptop end and goes to two 1/4" mono TS plugs at the speaker end, something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP153-Cable-Inch-Dual/dp/B000068O3C

There's a thread going on over here about unbalanced into balanced and why this isn't necessarily a bad thing.

That USB will be my choice then in the $30-$40 range. I saw it outputs 125mw@32Ohms, and that my headphones can go you to 200mw. Do you know of the cheapest DAC that can do 200mw@32Ohms? Still not sure how much I want to spend on this, but now I'm thinking I might want to spend a little more so I can get the maximum sound quality, within reason.

I found this one, which does 200@32, and is $75. I assume that's probably the cheapest option?

Thanks again.

Yamaha HS monitors have 1/4inch TRS and XLR inputs (no RCA as far as I know), so if you wanted to use them with a desktop without any/minimal extra hardware, you could get a 3.5mm to dual 1/4 inch cable (like this); 3.5mm goes into your computer's headphone jack, 1/4 inches go into the monitors.

Someone else can probably give better advice on whether or not to buy a DAC/interface. I use HS7s and I plug them into a Scarlett 2i2, which has 1/4 inch monitor outs. There's also a 1/4 inch headphone jack with separate volume knobs, so I can switch between monitors and headphones without much fuss. I'm pretty happy with that setup, but a 2i2 might be overkill just for that alone (I use it for recording from XLR mics as well, that's its main purpose).

If you're using a USB headset, you can keep them plugged in for both of the above approaches and switch audio devices via your OS when you need them.

you need an amplifier, and a cord to go from your headphone jack on your computer to the amplifier. You could look for old receivers on craigslist, or you could buy a new small amp if you don't want to hook anything else up to these speakers.

here's a relatively cheap amp that people seem to like. Here's another one that's a bit more powerful, and a bit more expensive.

if you want to get really fancy, you could also buy a DAC (like this one). it's a small device that plugs into a usb port on your computer, converts the digital audio into an analog signal, and then passes it on to the amp. Some people say you need one, some people say the one in your computer's sound card is good enough and they are overrated. I have no opinion either way.

I found the link to your other conversation.

In that conversation, the other redditor recommends using a TRS to TS breakout cable like this one on Amazon. And you know what? It might work. Maybe the circuitry inside the speakers can recognize and accommodate a non-balanced signal. Of course, it would be nice if the other redditor had addressed this concern! Instead, he gave you a breezy easy-peasy answer. Maybe he's right, and he didn't want to over-complicate his answer for you. Maybe he's wrong. I know just enough to know he might be wrong.

This isn't the sort of question I would want to find the answer to by spending hundreds of dollars ordering stuff I can't return.

If the other redditor can allay the concerns I've brought up--can a non-balanced signal from a splitter cable be fed into a speaker that is designed for balanced signals?--then maybe your purchase will be satisfactory. Absent an in-store test or a bulletproof return policy, I wouldn't risk my money. And I still say he's recommending you spend more money than you need to.

I would recommend Behringer Truth B1030a and Behringer UCA202. Add a subwoofer especially if you watch movies (like this one).

The cheapest way would be this guy, but only if you have a line-level output on your computer... which I think most do.

The better option would be to get an audio interface like this, which connects over USB, and

the headphones im interested in using are logitech g533 https://www.logitechg.com/en-us/product/g533-wireless-gaming-headset
and would a mixer like this work? https://www.amazon.com/Rolls-MX51S-Four-Channel-Stereo-Mixer/dp/B0002BG2S6

https://www.amazon.com/BIC-America-F12-475-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B0015A8Y5M

Its probably one of the best subs you can get for about 200$.

This cable is what you need for the mixter-to-computer interface.

As for microphone, many streamers use a "Large Diaphram Condenser" microphone. Condenser microphones require what's called "Phantom Power" to power a small circuit board within the mic for it to work. That's the reason that your $20 mic has a power supply.

My recommendation would be to buy something like this Audio Technica mic and get a mixer that has phantom power. This little Mackie board would do the trick. Alternatively, you could buy a "Phantom Power Supply" as a standalone component to provide the power to the mic.

That mic will be more reliable and sound better than the $20 one you picked.

You'll have a tough time finding something with two separate USB inputs. Pretty much any small format mixer can do this, but you'll have to just come out of your computers headphone jack or get a standalone DAC. Something like this: Rolls MX51S Mini Mix 2 Four-Channel Stereo Line Mixer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BG2S6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xADzDbER6NR9R

I wish I could but I don't have any cables like this http://amzn.to/2bQJTnj . And my room isn't very big, its a small bedroom.

How about just a smaller Behringer Xenyx, maybe the 502?.

It does utilise phantom power, but you can't switch it on or off, so if you plug your condenser mic into the XLR port phantom power will be provided, to use a mic without phantom power you have to use the line port (just below XLR), so you may need a different cable (XLR - Line) for a different mic. Bit annoying but it's small, cheap and does what you need. Hope that helps.

Is this what the back of your TV looks like?

https://i.rtings.com/images/reviews/tv/samsung/n5300/n5300-inputs-back-large.jpg

That shows that the ONLY audio output from that TV is OPTICAL. The RCA jacks are all INPUTS (as shown by the label)

So you need an optical (TOSLINK) to analog (RCA) adapter.

Something like: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0

That model has both RCA Left and Right (White and Red), and it also has a 3.5mm "headphone" output jack.

Behringer UCA202 - This is what I use with my laptop.

Fucking excellent.

An interface goes between an audio source and a computer. It converts an analog signal to digital, and sends it to your PC via USB, FireWire, thunderbolt.

In your situation, iPad->interface->computer.


An interface is the correct solution. Using your line input on your computer is an option and may work, though.

Ninja edit: you would plug in what you call an aux cable to your iPad and something like this

Double edit: even cheaper

I'm williing to invest a little more when its something that will out live my pc, but yea you got me on teh right track for sure! may even get this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-502-Xenyx-mixer/dp/B000J5UEGQ with some adaptors, as long as it can do what i want

This looks to be pretty cheap and compact:

> https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-MX400-BEHRINGER-MICROMIX/dp/B000KGYAYQ/
>
> 1/4" jacks

Another option:

> https://www.amazon.com/Rolls-MX51S-Four-Channel-Stereo-Mixer/dp/B0002BG2S6/
>
> RCA jacks (a little more expensive for some reason!)

It's probably overkill for this application and outside of your price range, but when I tried Dragon Naturally Speaking several years ago, I used a Shure SM58 with a cheap impedance transformer on a nice sound card. My accuracy was 95% and this was 10 years ago. I would check out Shure's SM58+X2U Combo. I'm sure in combination with the software advancement that you would see damn near 100% accuracy with this. An industry standard microphone compared to that cheap USB nonsense should absolutely make a huge difference.

OK, the headphone amp has RCA inputs -- you could connect it to your mixers headphone jack using a cable like this

I would start with the headphone volume adjusted low

Wait, wait. You say MOSTLY because youd like to use bluetooth isntead of CDs?

You can buy a bluetooth adapter and cable for $30. You plug this into the AUX connection on the back of your old Panasonic and its not bluetooth! I have a receiver from 1991 in my garage doing the same thing...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IQBSW28/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-40465-Value-Audio/dp/B0019MCI94/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1504625718&sr=8-8&keywords=rca+to+rca

Thanks for the reply!

Is this what you're talking about?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_YINMBbCKJFRFH

This audio selector should do it. If you have to step down to 3.5mm there are adapters for that.

cheers

https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526917149&sr=8-3&keywords=audio+selector

Line in channels 5/6 with this kind of cable. If you wanna do mono just do a 3.5mm to quarter inch :)

Yes!
Logitech 980-000910 Bluetooth Audio Adapter for Bluetooth Streaming https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IQBSW28/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5CJAzb2NQ8NHS

Yeah, so you have some options here. You would do your headphones on the PHONES output, and to go to your stream PC input you'd take your MAIN OUT 1/4" L&R and adapt them to 1/8" stereo with a cable like this. You could get two more of those cables and use that for the output of your Game PC to Inputs 2 & 3 and also the output your Stream PC to Inputs 4 & 5. See this pic, should get you going but if not shoot me a note.

Thank you very much!

Your explanation makes total sense: (in lay terms) half the signal is just being sent into the wrong wire and not making it to the sound system.

Mixers also seem to be the tool for the job if you need to be able to target multiple devices at the same time - and not even that expensive for how advanced they look.

But as you suspected, this would actually be pretty much overkill: I don't ever need audio from the Chromecast Audio and TV at the same time. I am also fine with having to walk over and hit a switch to change the input from one to the other.

Quick search later I found https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3, but this is big for the job. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014IVBD7A/ and https://www.amazon.com/4minds-Splitter-selector-Computer-Headphones/dp/B0776JX4JQ are smaller but still a bit pricey.

Any suggestion for small, simple and cheap-ish splitters that would match my use case?

(I will probably need 2 new male to male 3.5mm plug cables to connect my devices to the switcher, I guess?)

Thanks for the suggestions. I have the 80 ohm model and i decided to give this a try https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00LP3AMC2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have the same microphone and I use this:

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-502-Premium-5-Input-British/dp/B000J5UEGQ
And this:
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6/

That would be good if you have a line in input on your computer (the blue one)

If not, this would work if you don't mind loosing a USB port:
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Q502USB-Xenyx/dp/B00CTKI10A/

I believe the mixing knobs you're refering to are actually RF Preamplifiers to improve S/N
(signal to noise) Ratio.

This is similar to what you will need in conjunction with a wireless mic system to control the "volume" levels being sent to your camera and eventually to your audio output.