Top products from r/autorepair

This is what I use because it was recommended on e46fanatics forum, which is a mecca for e46 series BMW owners. The Veepeak is a cheap OBDII adapter, and OBDFusion is a program you will not regret buying. OBDFusion will read CEL codes, but it also has logging functionality to help analyze driveabilty problems.

I am strongly against standalone OBDII readers because of their high cost and crappy interface. I bought one at HarborFreight, which was handy for reading CEL codes, and thought it was the shiznit, until I tried the BT reader with Android phone. It is so much more convenient to use the smart phone that's already in your pocket. I haven't touched the standalone unit since I bought OBDFusion with BT adaptor. If you have an iPhone, you will need the WiFi adapter, not bluetooth.

I paid for this program twice, one time on Android, and then again for iOS version when I changed phones. It is still the best bang for your buck, even when paying for both versions.

https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Scanner-Adapter-Diagnostic-Trouble/dp/B00WPW6BAE

https://www.obdsoftware.net/software/obdfusion

Its not worth an engine to try and duct tape it, sounds like you need a better tool for getting it off.
Most parts stores carry these and they work well. Just make sure you get the right size range for your car.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8

I linked to a National Bearing. Bearings generally use the same part number for every brand. Link to Timken below, be sure it fits your car, don't trust my search. Not sure why you would need a new axle nut, I could be wrong and can't give you a educated answer. There may be some stretching or locking mech that would make a new nut safer. I didn't watch the video, I skimmed it for to be sure it would be the help you needed. I'm sure someone made a video in English. Try A1Auto, they're a parts dealer that makes there own self help videos. For sure get it pressed in, hammering it in will likely damage the bearing or not seat properly. https://www.amazon.com/Timken-510063-Wheel-Bearing/dp/B000BZ6YRM

I'm assuming you have the 1.9l engine? We install the repair inserts on those where I work for $100. It takes the same insert the 5.4l triton engines do that always blow out spark plugs. They are easy to do so i'm sure if you call around to local shops you can find a place willing to do it. Dephaze is right you should check the other plugs to make sure they are tight. I would probably just replace them all while you are at it.

http://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5334-14-Save-A-Thread-Thread-Repair/dp/B0002SRF4O/

If you want to try it yourself this is a simpler version of the kit I use. It locks the insert in very well. I have yet to have one come back. You can either pack the flutes of the tap with grease to keep the aluminum shavings from going into the cylinder or you can just fire up the engine for a few seconds after you tap the hole to blow the shavings out.

If you haven't changed your transmission oil lately, then i would definitely recommend you do that asap. (change the filter too if your car has one)

You can also put in a bottle of lucas transmission fix as well (it really helped with my own transmission issues)
https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-10009-Transmission-Fix-oz/dp/B000ARTZPO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484584637&sr=8-1&keywords=lucas+transmission

For the bondo do you mean something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-261-Lightweight-Filler-Pint/dp/B0007ZG9TO/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1507462655&sr=1-2&keywords=bondo?

And what did you mean by rattle can? Sorry I'm completely new to this body stuff.

Thanks!

If you have an iPhone, this one works pretty well. I use DashCmd and just leave it plugged in.

Get an OBD adapter to use with your smartphone. For example, a Veepeak with OBDFusion.

https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Scanner-Adapter-Diagnostic-Trouble/dp/B00WPW6BAE

https://www.obdsoftware.net/software/obdfusion

That combo will be far more helpful than any generic scan tool.

To me, it sounds like a vacuum leak. If that's the case, you'll need to do a smoke test. You can take the car to a shop to have a smoke test done, or you can do it yourself with a cheap fluid transfer pump, some rubber glove, and a cigar: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AsgB9eBl58I

If it's not a vacuum leak, the most likely culprits are o2 sensor, fuel pump, or MAF sensor.

They are called "safety torx" or "tamper proof torx".

Here is a set on Amazon.

Neiko 10073A Tamper Proof Torx Bit Socket Set, T8 – T60, S2 Steel | 13-Piece Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00078V7B6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JvfKBb8SEVS7Z

Would something like this work to patch up the dent?

For the light, you want a silicone sealant. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81158-Silicone-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B000AL6WLA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1419374300&sr=8-2&keywords=black+silicone+sealant

Be careful on the door. Are there screws behind that strip? If so, and you glue something on, you'll never be able to remove the door panel. I'd just do a bit of double stick tape, but not so much that I couldn't remove it.

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B005NLQAHS

Look into getting an OBD2 scanner that will connect to your phone. My preliminary research makes me think you can get your mileage from the computer that way. Plus, these things are incredibly handy to have when ever you get a check engine light.

https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K90704-Stabilizer-Bar-Link/dp/B000JZKY5W/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1539187126&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=Sway+bar+link+2002+tacoma&dpPl=1&dpID=41n-yk5DpWL&ref=plSrch




This thing. I heard chrisfix say the name in a video.

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Bullet-RBADS85-Automotive-Metallic/dp/B0002OQZUS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=rust+bullet+automotive+double+shot&qid=1570709113&sr=8-1

That ford uses plastic lines. Go to a part store (a rear one. Not autozone) and get a cheap fuel line to get the clip. Remove fuse for fuel pump, then start the car and let it die. Turn off key. Your system is now de pressurized. Put the fuse back when the job is complete.

This is the special disconnect tool.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002SRCK6/ref=psdcmw_15707681_t3_B000W1R1J0

Yes. You'll need to find a 12 volt power source that turns off with the key is removed from the ignition. This may or may not be simple. You'll need a multi-meter, and you'll need to probe power sources under the dash until you find one that cuts off when the key is out. Usually, the best place to start is at the inside fuse block. You can get a fuse tap that fits into the existing fuse slot and gives you a power lead and the existing fuse. [Like this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BGELQ/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687442&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000CQDRTI&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0HP8993WYB5TQ9Q8D907)

You may need to look at your fuse block to see if you need one with a lower profile.

The window regulator broke. You should be able to work the glass up until you can see two clips holding the glass to the regulator. Pull them out with a screwdriver. After that, you should be able to jog the entire assembly up and down to get it out of the door. The regulator will bolt onto the back of the assembly.
http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-741-823-Replacement-Regulator-Chrysler/dp/B000E347LQ

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506530759&sr=8-3&keywords=bluetooth+obd2+scanner

It works with most android scanner apps (I use carista, it's free). it cost me $20 and works great.

EDIT: also, what error code? (eg: p0400)

EDIT x2: Shot a quick question to my buddy who had issues with EGR shit not that long ago. Try replacing the gas cap. He sank about 150 bucks into his car before a new gas cap fixed his issues. It's a cheap place to start.

Where is it leaking from? The pressure hose or the pump itself?

PS leaks are fairly affordable and straightforward to fix, so rather than trying to "divert the leak", you're better off fixing it. PS fluid is flammable, so you run the risk of it splashing on the exhaust manifold and catching fire.

You should be able to find both the pump & PS hose at a junkyard for under $100. Simple hand tools to replace.

If it's a minor leak, you could try your luck with Lucas PS stop leak. It's about one of the only "stop leak" products that actually works.

Where is the dent on the car? I would try to get behind it and bang it out with a hammer a dolly, something like this https://www.amazon.com/Hammer-Dolly-Auto-Body-Repair/dp/B0002ZHBA0

If you can't get behind it, stud gun and slide hammer. Looks they can be gotten at harbor freight for around 100 bucks... only downside to this is the paint has to be removed for it work, then you have to grind where the studs were, then do any remaining body work (plastic/skim coat) and repaint.. but that kinda defeats the purpose of paintless.

Those glue type I dint have much experience with honestly. I've never tried to use one, typically I only see the aftermath when they fail to do what they say so I'm kinda biased.