Top products from r/bikewrench

We found 140 product mentions on r/bikewrench. We ranked the 1,423 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/bikewrench:

u/AnontheMaus · 1 pointr/bikewrench

OK, I'm thinking we do this in stages.

Stage 1 which will allow you to get it riding now and will be perfectly capable of a 4-5mi round trip.

Cable Cutters ($20) stick to the better units but probably no need to go for Park Tool. BBB make a nice one, although I currently have an IceToolz cable cutter because I can't find my good ones.
For the brakes you will need a 4th hand cable stretcher like this Pedros ($17) unit which is a third the cost of a Park Tool unit.
Will also need cables, easiest way is to grab a DIY Jagwire ($24) kit which has both brake and shift cables.
These Vittoria Zaffiro tyres are a good compromise of value, durability and performance. I use these a lot and they're on my training bike. Will also need tubes, and being a commuter, flats are not your friend so these Schwalbe tubes are a good idea. ($60)
Arundel cork bar tape ($20)
A new chain for your bike is probably the only way forward, and this KMC is perfect ($6)
The brake pads on your calipers will now doubt be old, and also a 30yo pad compound, so not overly efficient. Would strongly recommend these Kool Stop Continental brake pads as a starting point before we get to Phase 2 ($10)

Grease for the Bottom Bracket and Headset (and wheel hubs) is also needed, but there's absolutely no need to buy bike-specific grease, so this Valvoline tub as an example would be ideal ($10) .
The chain needs to be lubed, and in dry conditions I like Finish Line dry lube. Others will have their own preferences, but this is a good starting point.

Also should think about replacing the saddle, but this is very subjective and not something that can be recommended in terms of which saddle to buy. Maybe scoot around Craigslist for your area and see what comes up..

In terms of learning the skills, the Park Tool video channel is surprisingly good although heavy on product placement and endorsement although this is to be expected. There are lots of alternatives to Park Tool tools though, including Pedro's, BBB and others. None of the skills associated with your era of bike are all that difficult, and refurbishing this to be usable in your context is completely feasible in your garage.

May also want to consider buying one of the entry-level bike toolkits like this tool kit as a starting point ($40) although this is just an example however is the same kit as others sell just rebranded.

So phase 1 (not including the tool kit) is about $160-ish and watching a bunch of videos.

sorry for the essay, but once I started it just sort of kept going. Phase 2 is removal of existing driveline, and upgrading to a Shimano 2x8sp indexed group with modern dual pivot calipers and modern alloy wheels. But we can cover that later.

u/All_Hail_King_Sheldn · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

While some shifters are better than others, at this price point, they all will be about the same. If you want thumb shifters, that is a perfectly valid choice. There are also some trigger shifters out there, as well as grip shifters if you wanted to keep that style. As long as the shifter is shimano compatible, and 7 speed, it will work with your current freewheel and derailleur.

>As for what you described with the current drivetrain, what i think I'm seeing you suggest is 'clip the front derailleur off/remove it, leave the current crankset on with the chain at the middle gear since even though not optimal it current funds can be better spent elsewhere.' Am I reading that right?

No. The bottom bracket axle length will determine how close to or far from the frame the chankset is. This article on Chainline may be of some help.

What I was suggesting is that you can still change the crankset, and leave the derailleur in place as a chain guide (tighten the limit screws to ensure that the derailleur is centered over the chainring). They make purpose built chain guides, but the derailleur is already there and will work, so free chain guide.

As far as the rear derailleur, you have a claw mount derailleur, so for anything "better" than what you have, you will need an adapter. As far as upgrading the derailleur, I would personally go for something along the lines of the Altus M2000 or Acera M3000. Note that these are "9 speed" derailleurs, but the cable pull is the same as 5-8 and the shifter dictates the "speeds" shifted, so they will drop right in.

Pedals, Rockbros are the current king of the inexpensive. They come in a few colours, so you can match that to your taste.

Weeding the bad out is sometimes as easy as reading reviews, yes. However, look beyond the amazon for reviews. I generally prefer a video review, so I frequent YouTube for them, but google/duckduckgo can usually find a few forum posts as well that will answer questions.
It is also sometimes as easy as knowing a trusted name, and using their part over a shady one. Shimano and Sram parts are usually trusted and reliable on the drivetrain. Rockshox, Fox, and Manitou are good for shocks and forks, but Suntour is also sometimes good. There are more brands that are great, but on the low end price point, just play it by ear.

u/p34y95p9hfcsd · 1 pointr/bikewrench

If you run friction shifters you'd have an easy enough time running a triple and then you can run 5 speeds in the back and get way more useful gear range than any 1x setup. Super cheap to find old triples at any bike kitchen/co-op type place. Even nice ones with removable rings in 110/74 bcd are super common from late 80s and early 90s MTBs.

Rivendell sells friction bar end shifters pretty cheap and you have the flexibility to upgrade the rear wheel to 8 speed in the future if you find a deal on a used one off an old hybrid or something.

I'd recommend buying a new derailleur claw like that one so you start off with something straight. Consider keeping a spare around if you park your bike in a crowded rack, they are cheap enough.

This could get done for 100-200 depending on what the used parts market is like where you live. The new bar-end shifters would be the most expensive thing unless you opt for a new rear wheel too.

u/UncleKielbasa · 3 pointsr/bikewrench

How is the chain slipping? Is is dropping down or hopping up a rear gear, or is it slipping forward across teeth of the same gear?

Just based on your language, and how I perceive your knowledge of how everything is working, you might be best served by visiting a bike shop. Please don't take that as a knock against you, but if you want to take it in, you will be well served.

That being said, where's the fun in that? Let's do this ourselves!

If the chain is slipping forward, it may be stretched. Check out Sheldon Brown's article on chains. You can measure the chain stretch using a ruler, since every full link (that's two half-links, the individual swiveling parts) is 1" pin-to-pin. Measure twelve inches and the whole 12" should be pin-to-pin on a brand new chain. If your chain is 1/16" past 12" measuring twelve full lengths, replace it. If it gets more gone, it will start wearing down the teeth of your rear gears, and you'll need a new cassette or freewheel, depending on your rear wheel. That will cause slipping and skipping for sure, even with a brand new chain!

If you replace the chain, you will need to get a cheap chain breaker. There are many kinds at different price points, but I can vouch for that one as I carry it with me.

For a new chain, you have to get one that is the right width. This generally depends on the number of rear "speeds" you have. Up to 8 speeds in the rear is a standard chain. 9, 10, and 11 speeds in the rear require a chain that is thinner to fit in between the close spacing between gears.

You can also get a master link and replace a link in your chain with it - you can then remove the chain and reinstall it (for cleaning and work) without using a breaker. That's just a random one I found on amazon, which happens to be for 10-speed chains.

Measure your chain, check your gears for wear. If you have to replace your chain you just need a chain breaker and new parts. If you have to replace the rear gears as well you need a new set of gears and the appropriate freewheel/cassette removal tool. There a few common types of freewheel tools and just one cassette removal tool. They lock in to splines and allow you to use a standard wrench or socket to remove the tool.

Here's a video about removing a cassette

Here's a video about removing a freewheel

Here's a video about measuring a chain

u/GruntledMisanthrope · 1 pointr/bikewrench

You have a square taper bottom bracket. It's a common standard, they'll fit. Your biggest concern will be making sure the crank length is the same (probably 175mm, you'll want to measure though) and the same or similar tooth count on the chain rings, although if you wanted to change that up to bigger or smaller rings now would be the time. To know what size your current chain rings are, just count the teeth.

If you do the work yourself, you're going to want a crank puller - there are cheaper versions of this tool, but I've not had good luck with them. You'll also need a 15mm crescent wrench to get the other pedal off, a set of hex keys or metric sockets to get at the crank arm fixing bolts, and a torque wrench to set the torque on the bolts when you reinstall (if you're in the US, an auto parts store like Autozone will loan you the torque wrench). And watch a couple Youtube videos to get oriented, I like RJ The Bike Guy.

Two options to replacing it yourself are to take it to your LBS, and if you do that then probably just best to take them the bike and let them order the part. OR, and this is my favorite, find your nearest Bike co-op. In return for a small donation of time and/or money, they will likely have the correct crankset in their used parts bin for cheap or free, and a fully stocked repair station for you to use and somebody to show you what you're doing. Bike co-ops rock, if you're lucky enough to have one near by.

u/thalience · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

First off: watch out with "26 inch" wheels. There are no fewer than 5 different, incompatible "26 inch" sizes which you are likely to encounter!.

Since 26 x 1-3/8 wheels are not used on modern bikes, your options are going to be a bit limited. You definitely want an aluminum alloy wheel (instead of steel). Here is one in the right size and material, that accepts a thread-on freewheel. It is a bolt-on wheel, however (not quick-release compatible). The seller does not indicate what the axle length is, but I think only one axle length was common for 26x1-3/8 wheels. Good luck!

Really hard to help you on the gearing situation without pictures. What kind of shifters does it have? Is the rear shifter indexed?

You may be able to just buy a new 6-speed thread-on freewheel, if the shifter is not indexed (or is indexed for 6 speeds). They are not expensive, and can be installed without a tool. You'll need to replace the chain too, btw (the chain and rear gears wear together). I would prefer this option, if at all possible.

If you simply must keep the old freewheel with bizarro gears, you'll have to figure out which of the various freewheel removal tools it takes. You'll also need something to apply serious leverage to the tool, as freewheels are tightened by the force of pedaling. A bench vise is best. Plenty of youtube videos demonstrating the removal technique.

u/sevendayconstant · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

For a derailleur hanger, go here:

I've ordered from them in the past and they were great. They even worked with me to exchange a hanger since I ordered the wrong one. Very painless.

For other parts, I just shop around via Google. Generally I go with Amazon since I have a Prime account but other times shops will pop up with better prices. I've ordered from most of the places /u/TallBobbyB listed (for the US) and have had good results. Probikekit is based in the UK but they usually have pretty great prices too.

If you want to learn how to fix stuff, you can find just about everything you need on Youtube or the Park Tool Website. If you want something to hold in your hands, Lennard Zinn wrote the bible.

u/summerchilde · 1 pointr/bikewrench

You're welcome. Remove that cable but save it so you can use for measurements. You CAN ride the bike without it but it will be in low (3rd) gear.

Shifting on these goes like this...

1 (1st) is high gear and is the easiest. When used the cable pulls that indicator chain all the way out.

2 (2nd) is normal as if riding a single speed bike. The cable pulls the indicator about halfway.

3 (3rd) is low gear and the hardest to pedal in. Cable doesn't pull at all. Takes a bit more muscle to pedal but you can go really fast.

Once you replace that cable you'll have a nice bike to ride. They are ridiculously easy to maintain once you get the hang of it.

Also, your wheels probably have chrome/steel rims. You will want to replace the brake pads with Kool-Stop Continentals. Get the SALMON (orange) colored ones here. These are the best brake pads for these old wheels. Salmon color only though!

u/[deleted] · 5 pointsr/bikewrench

Three suggestions for you:
1- invest in a digital caliper. I got mine from harbor freight for 30 dollars. It will save you a lot of headache and help you know what size part you are looking for.
2- invest in the right tools. It doesn't have to be park tools (although they are really nice). But having the correct bottom bracket tool will save time and headache.
3- Buy the park tools big book of bike repair ( Or zen and the art of bike repair (
These books will become your bible through your builds.
Also, don't hesitate to ask the wonderful community of r/bikewrench.
They answered acouple of my questions really well and quickly.
Good luck and I've posted up a couple of my builds :D (also a big DIY guy myself)
[IMG][/IMG]my mountain bike
[IMG][/IMG]my old commuter bike

u/scoofy · 5 pointsr/bikewrench

You'll probably want a park tools repair stand (i have that one, it's cheap and it gets the job done), and the big blue book.

You'll also probably need a bottom bracket tool depends on your type of bottom bracket though. You might want to get a breaker bar as well (leverage is very important when removing these bottom brackets).

You'll need a chain whip and lockring spanner.

If you are going threaded fork, you'll need the relevant spanner wrenches.

Make sure you have a good multi-tool/allen wrench set. A nice tube of waterproof grease, and some triflow or other chain lube, and a degreaser. Also a good pedal wrench is good to have.

A 4th hand tool is really good to have if you are running your own brakes, plus you'll need a good housing/cable cutter.

If i can think of anything else, i'll get back to you, but that should pretty much cover it.

u/lexicon993 · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Kool stop dual compound brake pads


Kool stop salmon brake pads

You need the right pads for all weather conditions if you are riding in the rain. Especially heavy rain.

Regular black brake pads are truly for DRY conditions only.

Dual compound is for both. Salmon is for mostly wet.

Give a pair of these a try and not only will you have the best and strongest rim braking you've ever had, you'll have the best all-weather performance there is for rim brakes. It is absolutely worth the money and one of the best bike upgrades you can do for a rim-brake bicycle.

Make sure to toe in brakes to avoid squeaking and you're golden.

If this is for a commuter bike and rain happens here and there, this is a necessity for safety, not a luxury. The right brakes are just as necessary as a helmet.

3 out of my 4 bikes have rim brakes and these are the only pads I use or recommend. Getting the toe in correct for squeaking is a thing, but other than that they are the best brakes out there for rims. Hands down. Especially for rain and snow.

u/_Curious-Guy_ · 1 pointr/bikewrench

>Zinn and the art of mountain bike maintenance

Ha! There is such a thing!

I honestly thought it was a typo for Zen, and there is a billion "Zen and the art of something..." out there, and just figured that was one of those. And I was going to pass on yet again, another philosophy of life outlook. Read one, read them all. LOL.

Cool. Thanks.

u/quietIntensity · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Your best bet would be to take it to a bike shop. They likely have a crank arm in stock that would work, assuming they used a normal size and the classic square taper interface. If you can't get the whole bike to the shop, you can probably remove the crank arm using one of these, and take that to the shop:

They're pretty easy to use, you can find youtube videos that explain it in a couple minutes.

The new crank arm should not cost more than $30 at a shop. Online they are really cheap, and this one is a known good brand:

u/Da_Funk · 1 pointr/bikewrench

Haha, yeah I took the advice on replacing the freewheel seriously just in case.

Thanks for the knowledge. I haven't considered this replacement up to now. I might give it a shot to keep the bike crisp and functional as well as getting my mechanic skills up with the experience.

Here is a follow up question, would a 7 speed like this fit or would the extra gear take up too much space?

u/A1000Birds · 7 pointsr/bikewrench

Not sure what your budget is exactly, but I went with this:

Bikehand Pro Mechanic Bicycle/Bike Repair Rack Stand

It’s been solid, I’ve had it for over a year and have worked on all our bikes on the rack. It’s light but doesn’t feel flimsy. In the future I’d love to own something more heavy duty like a park tools one, but for now this is a gem.

Note: I’m not in any way affiliated with Bikehand, just a customer who would def vouch for the repair stand!

u/wickedcold · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

The Park Tool version is what I have. It has a socket in addition to being six sided.

If you've never installed a cartridge BB before, I will say it's 100x easier with an adjustable wrench, because you can use a QR skewer through the BB to hold the tool in place. It has a tendency to slip off when using it through the socket. You'll see what I mean :-)

You may want to just start it that way and then finish it with the torque wrench to save the aggravation. In all honesty though you don't really need one. You're just wedging the cartridge in place to prevent it from backing out, which it won't do because of the thread direction. Once it feels tight, it will stay.

u/doebedoe · 1 pointr/bikewrench

What is it about drops that you want? If it's a more aggressive riding position then yes go with a road bike. But do know those slimmer tires will not be as forgiving over bumps as something with a bit more volume.

If its just that you want more hand positions for the ride there are a whole variety of bar ends that you can add for little expense. Some of these will stretch you out more, some will just reorient your hands, and these mimic drop bars.

Plus v-brakes are probably the best rim brakes for a commuter (powerful, easy to run fenders, etc etc.)

u/p4lm3r · 4 pointsr/bikewrench

3 tools that I would recommend getting are a cable cutter made for bikes, a cable puller and a pokey spoke. Without a proper cable cutter you will just crush the cables/housings when trying to cut them. Even with a proper cable cutter you will slightly deform the housings- which is why you want a pokey spoke. Use the pokey spoke to make sure you have rounded out the cable housings nicely after cutting em. The cable puller is invaluable when adjusting tension on the brakes and derailleurs. Sure, you can bumble along fine without one, but holy hell it is a headache. Also- Make sure you have ferrules and cable ends. You can pick these up at your LBS for next to free.

Remember- Derailleur cables/housings are smaller than brake cables! They are not interchangeable. I usually just start with the shifter cables and run those, then do brake cables(this is definitely dependent on the bike). Don't cut the cables until you have tested your brakes and shifters/derailleurs. Sorry for the wall of text. Hope it helped a tad, tho.

u/user_name_fail · 7 pointsr/bikewrench

Zinn and the art of Bike Maintenance

Pretty good reference book to have on hand as well.

u/wygibmer · 1 pointr/bikewrench

Great info, thanks so much. I will be getting this book in the mail tomorrow, and I intend to read through it before I go to town. Much appreciated.

u/VplDazzamac · 3 pointsr/bikewrench

YouTube is great for specific. I would also recommend reading Zinn & The art of road bike maintenance for fairly detailed explanations. It also has a fairly good glossary and troubleshooting section.

u/aedrin · 3 pointsr/bikewrench

The sets are generally not recommended because 1) you don't need all the tools right away and 2) you generally don't need half of the tools.

There are only a handful of tools that are really important to have, the rest is to make things easier. And some tools are better left to the LBS (such as a real headset press).

To remove the chain you will need a chain tool (get a quicklink/powerlink while you have the chain off of the wheel, they're much easier). To adjust the wheels, you will need a spoke tool (assuming it isn't bent too much). Replacing a derailleur shouldn't require any special tools (screw drivers, allen keys). Although if you're going to be replacing shifter cable housing having a proper cable cutter (such as the park one) is important. You probably won't need to though. Don't forget cable ends (maybe ask for a few from your LBS).

Also, this has been helpful (and seems quite popular):

The rest you can find out from videos online. There generally isn't anything you can't do yourself (although some pressurized components prevent you from reassembling).

u/tomcatx2 · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Ah! Yes. Then you need brake pads for v brakes, linear pull brakes.

Kool-Stop Dual Compound Mountain Pads for Linear Pull Brakes Threaded,Black/Salmon

Anything like this. Personally, i like the pads that have removable inserts. They arent that much more and replacing shoes are a lot easier since you dont have to muck with positioning.

Kool Stop Bicycle V-Type Holder with Brake Pads (Dual Compound)

Velo orange make a set. Clarks. Avid. Really any brand has a decent product like this.

u/Clbrosch · 5 pointsr/bikewrench

At this point I would just get a new bottom bracket. If it has run while being able to move like that at all, the bearings and races are going to be completely trashed.
You should be able to get a new one that is compatible with those cranks for cheap.

If you are interested in doing your own repairs now or in the future get a good book like Zinn's art of mountain bike maintenance.

u/wegotyourbuddy · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

One piece cranks are pretty easy to work on so they are a good intro to working on bikes. The only tool you need is a big adjustable wrench and some grease to get them up and running.

Six speed is the correct terminology. Bike speeds are typically expressed in one of two ways, the amount of rear cogs multipled by the number of front chain rings (7 in the rear 3) or by the amount of rear cogs.

If you decide to replace the chain, freewheel (rear cog set) and chain ring you will need the following, chain, freewheel, and example chain ring The chain ring you get needs to say that it works with chains that are 1/2 x 3/32. If you want to be anal about this, you can count how many teeth are on the small cog and big cog of your old freewheel and get a new one that matchs that range along with getting a chain wheel that has the same amount of teeth as your old one. This is likely to preserve your old gearing. This is not a huge deal for casual use, though it's something to keep in mind.

You will need a freewheel remover tool to get your old freewheel off. There are about ten different ones, so I would suggest going to bike shop and having them remove it, or have them tell you which tool you need. You don't need a tool to install a new freewheel.

Also, to install the new chain you will need a chain breaker.

However, I still doubt you need to replace all that crap. I'd start by fixing the bottom bracket, then seeing if that solves the crunching and chain jumping problem.

u/racefacexc · 1 pointr/bikewrench

You could try a harder pad, but often that results in less friction or more force required at the lever to get the same braking performance. Kool-stop used to make great rim brake pads and appear to still make them. Might be worth a try.

They are about twice the cost initially but once pad replacement is required, the insert is about the same price at the pads you currently use.

If you decide to try these or any other pad, verify fitment. It's been years since I've worked on a road bike and don't know if compatibility is what I remember. They visually look the same as far as mounting goes.

u/Gnascher · 3 pointsr/bikewrench

The stand with that pump is basically a glorified kickstand. It's meant primarily to hold your bike while you pump the tires ... I wouldn't say it's likely to be holding the bike steady enough (or high enough) for maintenance work or making cleaning easier. I think this is a LOT of money for what's on offer here.

I recently purchased this proper work stand for $89.00. It's very sturdy and appears quite well made. It holds the bike securely, has a tray for your tools and nuts/bolts etc... It's height and angle adjustable, folds up compactly to tuck away in a corner when you're not using it.

That leaves you $30 in your budget to find a decent track pump with a pressure gauge ... shouldn't be much of a challenge to find one in that price range.

u/squizzix · 1 pointr/bikewrench

Give a man a match and he'll be warm for a second; set a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life.

Dude, building wheels is some of the most frustration I've ever felt. Totally possible but the learning curve is steep. I've used this book. Good luck.

That feeling when your fully laced spokes cross over the valve hole

Edit: the right link to the book

u/bpwnz · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

this 2 week old post pretty much covers the reasons why what you're planning on doing isn't very cost effective.

I thought this was the best solution on the thread, so long as you're fine with not being able to stop or shift while in the drops.

u/AimForTheAce · 1 pointr/bikewrench

I have a couple of BikeHand branded products. One being a truing stand, and other is a chain tool.

So far, I'm happy with BikeHand products. Having said that, I would not buy the one you linked. That stamped corn wrench makes me cringe.

OTOH, more expensive one looks 100 time better.

u/lVlaciiiii · 1 pointr/bikewrench

That video was super helpful, thanks! I was worried about reverse threading like the pedals have, but the dust caps were just really stuck from age. I was able to remove them and uncover what looks like a square bottom bracket. So I'm gonna grab this tool from amazon to get them off. Does that look right to you?

u/lunchWithNewts · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Do you really need/want to replace your bottom bracket?

Looks like a square taper crankset. That should be easy to find and replace without touching the bottom bracket. You'll need a crank puller, something like this

u/anonanon1313 · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Those are steel rims, so in theory can be hammered out, with the tires removed, but I've never done it myself... Steel rims dent easily, as you've discovered, and they also don't stop well when wet. It's important to keep tire pressure up to the maximum rated on the sidewall to reduce chance of denting.

You could get a new set of wheels, though that bike might not be worth the investment.

As for pads, I'd recommend Koolstop salmon Continentals---

u/mtranda · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Upgrading it will be quite expensive. However, it'll provide you with a wealth of knowledge, frustration and, at the same time, fun.

Depending on your existing hub, you may or may not need a new hub to put your new cassette on.

With a wide enough range of gears on your rear cassette you can get away with a single chainring, so there will be no need for a new crankset/front derailleur/front shift lever.

As /u/fclbr said, you can choose downtube shifters in order to keep your existing brake levers. There are also bar-end shifters, and if you go for a single chainring, it won't be that expensive.

All-in-all, consider if this bike's right for you, size and geometry-wise, as your decision may be a bit rash. If it is, then I'd say go for it.

Rear derailleur - $20

Cassette - $20 - I recommend going for the 34t max sprocket. It'll allow you to stick with a single chainring

Bar-end shifters - $55 - they are 9-sp indexed, but they also work in friction mode, which allows you to freely adjust your gear

Downtube shifters - $14

Cables/outer cables are negligible costs.

u/pigcupid · 10 pointsr/bikewrench

When you graduate beyond Sheldon, you can spend months reading Jobst's bike.wreck postings, much of which would inform Sheldon's thinking. He was a brilliant engineer who understood bicycles, possibly better than nearly anyone else who ever lived, and literally wrote the book on bicycle wheels.

u/iynque · 11 pointsr/bikewrench

I bought a copy of Zinn & the Art of Road Bike Maintenance specifically because it includes a sensible list of regular maintenance tasks. It has several lists, like “before every ride,” “after every ride (or three),” “every 1000 miles,” “every 20,000 miles,” and helpful hints about how to know specifically when you need to do certain things, regardless of how many rides or miles you do.

u/torlesse · 0 pointsr/bikewrench

You need something like a crank puller such as

(assuming its a square taper or similar)

to remove the old crank. Depending on the prices of your local bike shop, its probably cheaper to buy the tool and DIY.

It should be a fairly straight forward job, assuming that you are fairly handy. The key thing to look out for is making sure you put the cranks on tight enough, but not overly so that it cracks the crank. Then there are some other minor adjustments that you might need to make. E.g the front derailluer/shift probably need to be adjusted, it might be as simple as to playing around with the cable and limiting screws, or you might need to adjust the height of the derailleur.

If you are new at this, you probably need to spend a good afternoon to swap it over.

So it depends on $$$$ vs time.

u/nowhere3 · 5 pointsr/bikewrench
u/c0nsumer · 1 pointr/bikewrench

Doesn't look broken at all; just like you have enough slack on both the brake and shift housing that it was able to pop out of the brake lever and shifter.

If this is happening, along with the other stuff, you likely just need to take your bike to a shop to have a basic tune-up and cable/housing replacement done.

If you want to fix this yourself, buy the book Zinn and the Art of Mountan Bike Maintenance. It'll cover all of these things and put you on a good path to learning how to work on your own bike.

u/Ubizubi · 5 pointsr/bikewrench

I really like Zinn & the Art of Road Bike Maintenance for most projects. Much easier for me than YouTube videos.

u/ryethoughts · 1 pointr/bikewrench

This book is a great resource if you want to learn how to work on bikes:
Zinn & the Art of Road Bike Maintenance: The World's Best-Selling Bicycle Repair and Maintenance Guide

The author is the tech writer for Velonews and he really knows his stuff.

u/PedalinGardener · 1 pointr/bikewrench

I have risers, love rapid fire shifters, but like the feel of drops at times and thought about these

u/kopsis · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

This is the "nuclear option" for really difficult tires:

I've never found soapy water to be much help, but talcum powder is sometimes effective.

u/Sir_not_sir · 15 pointsr/bikewrench

You could start with better friction pads. should fit.

Tektro should make a dual divot caliper that fits, but you'll need to measure the distance from the mount hole to the pads to find the right size.

Of course, that assumes that the cables are new and the levers are of adequate pull.

u/muddy700s · 0 pointsr/bikewrench

Here's a wheel. It has a quick release axle, but will work well.

You could either buy this tool to remove the freewheel (gears) and switch them to the new wheel or you could buy a new freewheel set.

u/FuckinWalkinParadox · 3 pointsr/bikewrench

i borrowed my uncle's Bikehand stand this weekend and I think I need to buy my own now. it's amazing.

Bikehand Bike Repair Stand - Home Portable Bicycle Mechanics Workstand - for Mountain Bikes and Road Bikes Maintenance

u/ramennoodle · 18 pointsr/bikewrench

Looks like it covers the basics, except for a torque wrench (which not needed for groupset change). Pricey, though. This bikehand one has everything except the missing link pliers for less than half of the cost. This one includes a torque wrench and bearing press for 2/3 of the cost.

Also, KMC recommends against using submersing chain cleaners like the one included.

u/lazy_beans · 1 pointr/bikewrench

I agree. If he wants to try drop bar geometry on the bike he could try these and adjust/replace the stem. Maybe cut the bars after placement. Wouldn't need to invest in shifters/brakes/brifters to try the fit. Definitely cheaper way to try the geometry change.

u/SgtBaxter · 6 pointsr/bikewrench

If the taper on the cranks is screwed up, most likely so is the taper on your bottom bracket. You should replace that as well.

Is your BB a cartridge bracket? Square taper brackets are inexpensive on Amazon, and the Park BBT-22 is less than $20.

Alternately, you can put a piece of wood on the old crank arm and smack the shit out of it with a hammer to wedge it on tighter. Sometimes that works, sometimes it doesn't. Don't do it with the new set you bought though.

u/mheep · 1 pointr/bikewrench

Found the tires x2.
Tubes x2.
Seat is your choice, look for a "cruiser seat" if you want to retain the look of it x1.
Brake pads x2.

Cable kit is above. That should give you a rough outline of what I had to replace on mine, not counting opening up any of the sealed components to clean and regrease.

u/Sumpm · 1 pointr/bikewrench

If they're absolutely impossible to install, get a Tire Bead Jack. It's often the only thing that will work, and you'll save your thumbs in the process.

u/ethanspitz · 13 pointsr/bikewrench

I started with this. Zinn & the Art of Road Bike Maintenance: The World's Best-Selling Bicycle Repair and Maintenance Guide

Since I got it, I apprenticed at a shop for about a year and I'd consider that book pretty good. I'm not a huge fan of the wheelbuilding section in it, but it's enough to get you through your first wheel. After that you may want to start exploring other methods as I find the one in that book overly time consuming/confusing compared to the one I learned on the shop.

Edit: I read you might be able to find it in your local library, so you could check it out before you buy it or just simply check it out when you need.

u/mzman · 6 pointsr/bikewrench

When I asked a fellow MTBer a couple of years ago he suggested I get this book. It has been quite helpful indeed.

They also wrote a road bike one with the similar title.

u/Dark-Fx · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

This is good advice, if you still have issues, deflate the tube a bit. If that still doesn't work, one of these are totally a lifesaver for the extremely stubborn combinations: Kool Stop Tire Bead Jack

u/bigtime_porgrammer · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

$89 stand I bought on Amazon has served me well, including working on a rather heavy e-bike on the regular.

Bikehand Pro Mechanic Bicycle/Bike Repair Rack Stand

u/richie_engineer · 3 pointsr/bikewrench

Also get a book. I really like my copy of Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance.

Handy in the shop. He also has a MTB version if that's your style.

u/CapnScrunch · 3 pointsr/bikewrench

This video helped me with my technique: .

Also, the bead jack is supposed to help. Haven't tried it myself:

u/damncourier · 4 pointsr/bikewrench

derailleurs used to clamp on to the back portion of drop out. there are adapters for one's that don't have a plate and clamp. the listing doesn't show the rear part but something like

u/Atb2801 · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

This might work for you. Its smallest gear is 13t but does have a 28 T gear. They make a 14-34T as well.
Shimano Tourney 7-Speed Freewheel

u/dachopshoprepairshop · 1 pointr/bikewrench


yea I was looking at park tool kinda pricy at $250 and judging from reviews the tools materials don't seem to be worth the cost. Was looking that this set


u/D0rk4L · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Looks like it's a typical square taper crankset and bottom bracket. In this case you'll need this for the bottom bracket:

You'll also need a crank puller to take off the cranks if they aren't on already.

u/sebwiers · 5 pointsr/bikewrench

Jobst Brandt was famous for getting in usenet arguments over how wheels should be built / worked structurally. He was one of the first people to run FEA simulations on a (model of a) bike wheel, back when doing so meant writing custom software and waiting hours (maybe days) for results. He literally wrote the book on the subject. People still ignored what he said.

Its a compliment and sympathetic shout out, so don't sweat it.

u/qsceszxdwa · 1 pointr/bikewrench

So here's what I would do. Slide in your controls and grips to where you think they would be comfy. Ride it without touching the part of the bars you think you won't use. Cut the bars there if you're satisfied. If you really want drop bars for some reason, stick these on there after you chop the bars.

u/Statuethisisme · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

I mean the same stand that u/singlejeff and u/A1000Birds are talking about. This one.

I only use it for cleaning and lubing as I have a PCS-10 for working on bikes, but since I seem to be looking after and ever growing number of bikes, I decided to buy another stand. I didn't need two solid stands as I'm only physically working on one at a time, so I'll lube a chain on the cheap stand while I'm doing a repair on the quality stand.

u/lavacahacemu · 1 pointr/bikewrench

largest I could find on ebay NOS. By no means affordable.

If the shifting is friction (i. e. doesn't click for each cog), you can replace the rear wheel with anything 6 or 7 speeds, check out craigslist and you can probably get a decent old wheel with freewheel for about 20~30 usd.

Upon further reading it seems that freewheels have a standard ISO threading, therefore, again, if you're ok with friction shifting, you can use any old freewheel, even a new one. Not completely sure about the spacing and/or overall width though, so, give it a try.

u/danecdotal · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

I've got the road bike version too and it has worked well for me.

u/seangoesoutside · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Velo orange has one thats really expensive but there are $25-30 options on ebay and Amazon.


Or get an adapter to run a modern stem for much cheaper

u/taonzen · 7 pointsr/bikewrench

If you don't want to put in all the time, money, energy, and money to change the brakes, shifters, etc., then take a look at these drop bar ends.

u/universalcode · 0 pointsr/bikewrench

You probably need a stem adapter, not a shim. This will allow you to use any modern stem.

Profile Design Threadless Size Converter (1" - 1 1/8")

u/Cmack72 · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

You linked to a freewheel remover. What you actually need is a cassette lockring tool.

u/Rob3E · 4 pointsr/bikewrench

I bought all my tools a piece at a time the first time. The second time I was able to buy them all at once and found it was cheaper to get a full toolkit than buying one at a time. I got the Bikehand kit: and it's worked pretty well so far. I haven't used every tool (and I'm a little fuzzy on what a couple of them are for), but generally, if I need a bike-specific tool, it's in that box. The exceptions being a torque wrench, which I've done without so far, and my wheel-building tools which, apart from the spoke wrenches, I had to buy separately.

However, if that's a lot to spend at once, most tools are not too expensive individually. I was able to buy them as needed without much trouble or (short term) expense. The only issues are that you pay more long term and the first time you have need for a tool, it's not already on hand. Not a big deal if you're patient. I'm not, and I use my bike for transportation, so having the tools before I need them keeps me mobile.

u/visusest · 1 pointr/bikewrench

Just get a quill to 28.6 adapter and you can use a standard stem to run 31.8 bars

u/Vairman · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

I prefer this one because I can use a socket wrench with it and it takes up less space in the bike tool box.

u/svdodge · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Good news bad news. A longer allen tool will get that bolt out, but once it is removed, the crank will not come off unless you use a crank removal tool like this one.

u/stuman1974 · 1 pointr/bikewrench

I ordered up a couple pairs of these Kool Stop pads from Amazon. Will report back once I get and install them.

u/talkingwires · 1 pointr/bikewrench

I only briefly flipped through the Mountain Bike edition, but saw that it does cover flat bars and disc brakes, so I'd probably go with that version. Amazon has a preview of the book if you're not sure.

u/VanMulk · 5 pointsr/bikewrench

Origin 8 makes clip-on drop bar ends that might suit your needs without having to mess with your shifters or brakes.- and they're only $15.

u/thehumble_1 · 1 pointr/bikewrench

Depends on the frame. My Trek took a 1 1/8 threaded fork which meant I could swap the fork/headset/stem for a threadless one. You're fork is probably 1" threaded so no go. There are a few work arounds like a threadless stem converter, but generally you're stuck based on your frame/fork.

Profile Design Threadless Size Converter (1" - 1 1/8")

u/FSprocketooth · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Kool Stop Tire Bead Jack

I have those same marathons and I’ve had that same problem. I just bought one of those cool stop tools- I Highly recommend it.

u/nicoc3r · -4 pointsr/bikewrench

hot damn theyre taking you for a ride. here is a replacement on niagra cycle. if youve got a freewheel removal tool you should be able to transfer everything over. only downside is that it might be slightly out of true when you get it.

u/UrbanGabe · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Also, these are the Kool Stop Dura Ace pad holders that I was talking about. They should work with your old brakes:

u/802bikeguy_com · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

The spindle length of your current bb might be what you need. If the bearings feel smooth no need to replace. You'll need to buy a crank puller to remove the stock cranks.

u/snowboardracer · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

You need a kool-stop bead jack. It will make any tire installation a breeze.

Kool Stop Tire Bead Jack

On mobile, sorry for the formatting.

u/ratZ_fatZ · 1 pointr/bikewrench

I have a hybrid bike with the exact same 7 speed freewheel and chainring, last week the freewheel went bad so I got this one the bike had the same tires as your's and I went with 700 x 30 tires and the bike is a bit faster but not as good as a road bike. Why not buy a used road bike as it's going to be far lighter than the wife's bike.

u/Fizz11 · 1 pointr/bikewrench

As everyone already said, you need a new freewheel.

I cant tell if thats a 6 or 7 speed freewheel, but here is the 6 speed and
here is the 7 speed part you want.

and you need this to get it off.

There are a million freewheel replacement videos on youtube that you can watch to see how its done. Once you get the old one off ( and it will be a bitch to get off... most freewheels are) popping on the new one is stupid easy.

u/hf7hf · 1 pointr/bikewrench

Even if it wasn't possible to bend it back (I've bent worse back and they worked fine) you can just leave it there and install a derailleur claw adapter like they use on cheap bikes and then you're off to the races. This works with any frame that has old-school horizontal dropouts. The only trick in the case of this surly would be getting the adjuster screws out and replaced with a shorter one.

u/lee-c · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

The Bicycle Wheel is generally billed as the book on bicycle wheels. If you really wanted to understand the nuts and bolts (nipples and eyelets?), that should get you started. I've found Sheldon's page on the matter plenty for my limited aspirations. Don't be afraid to hit up r/wheelbuild too.

u/Dark_water_ · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Something similar to this? I have no shame in announcing that I'm pretty ignorant to brand quality in this arena.

u/DonOblivious · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

>I'll definitely be doing butted spokes!

Please do. The best wheelbuilders in the world will tell you to use butted spokes in their books and on their websites. We're talking about guys like Jobst Brandt, Sheldon Brown, and Peter White. I'll leave it up to you to confirm what I'm saying, but, butted spokes make stronger wheels.

Put simply: the thin middle section of a butted spoke can expand and contract to take stress off the rim. It also takes stress off the J-Bend of the spoke. I'm a fat-as-fuck rider and 100% of the spokes I've broken (and I've broken a lot) happen at the J-Bend.

If you want to research further you can read

If you do you'll understand why I had a rear wheel built 3-cross instead of 4-cross.

u/claimed4all · 4 pointsr/bikewrench

Steel Tire Lever or the Kool Stop Tire Jack.

Kool Stop Tire Bead Jack by Kool Stop

The tire jack will less likely scratch your wheel.