Top products from r/crtgaming

Thanks a lot for the suggestion. Still trying to get my head around how these things even work. Currently using csync RGB scart. Seems like it's a bit of hassle, but definitely not too ridiculous. I was hoping there was some way to extract the image directly from the monitor without having a horrendous mess of cables, but there isn't.

I found an explanation from the guys who run the ESA speedrunning event, if anyone is interested:

"Here are a couple of more resources where you can read up on RGB capturing:
https://blz.la/rgb/
http://retrorgb.com/
http://retrogaming.hazard-city.de/
During ESA2014 we used a couple of different scalers. Initially we wanted to used several XRGB minis, but that plan fell through. So we used these in combination:
CM-393 (also known as Centaur Pro): A SCART to HDMI scaler. Will only work with NTSC consoles. In the case where we wanted to catpure PAL sources, we had to run the video signal through a DVD-recorder to conform the signal to proper PAL. PAL60 will also have to go through a DVD-recorder. For that purpose we had several KiSS DP-558 units available.
We also used Cypress CP-255i: A more high-end scaler, basically plug and play. But does not have an input for SCART. For those cases we had Sync Strikes. Or SCART (RGB) to YUV converters. http://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO
Seriously, those RGB to YUV have saved our asses more than once. It's a great utility. Works just fine for hooking up your retro consoles to a PVM or a TV with only component inputs. (Assuming it accepts 240p).
As for the future. We opted for a solution which would allow us to stick to one scaler. We went for the Extron DVS-304. This model has been discontinued but can be found in Ebay. This little beauty accepts anything analog. And you should be able to score one for less than 100$.
Since you can get scaled RGBHV output, it's very easy to replicate the output to any source. Which might not be very helpful for personal streaming, but it is godlike for marathons.
There is still a model in production Extron DVS-304 DVI.
tl;dr: There's no easy solution. But SCART (RGB) is nothing more than Red + Green + Blue + Sync. "

No problem! Happy to see someone with the same set. For GC, that link I posted, is being played through my Wii with OEM component cables and looks fantastic. No need for $250 cables (unless you value the gameboy player option for 480p). Everything else of mine is mostly RGB modded and then fed into this tube with a ShinbowSB2340 converter. Prior to the Shinybow I had that generic or CSY clone converter with adjustable pots and it looked really good as well. My 3DO is on S-Video and I'm pretty happy with the image and as for my NES, I refuse to play anything until I get the damn thing modded for RGB! (one of my only consoles I still haven't done yet). I managed to get a Japanese top loader version for the mod since they're more reliable and use the familiar nintendo a/v out connector (unlike the N.American top loader which doesn't use the same connector). SNES(1 CHIP) & Genesis are excellent native RGB consoles, all you would need are the cables and a component converter. Below is a list and info of some of the hardware I am either currently using or have used in the past and would recommend. Don't be overwhelmed, if you'd like to see the absolute best image you can provide this set you can just start with a simple RGB scart cable for a console that has RGB natively, and a basic SCART to Component converter. Just remember some converters don't handle the audio.

• CSY Clone Converter
  
• Shinybow SB2340 Converter
  
• Hama Scart Switcher
  
• tough to get one Gscartsw
  
• Extron Crosspoint Switcher

Didn't see anything posted yet by anyone else, but if you want to start any gaming on it right away, I'd recommend ordering some bnc to rca adapters, stereo to mono adapter, and I also recommend some kind of universal adapter with s-video.

This is all to hold you over with any retro consoles until you can fully enjoy the RGB inputs if you choose to go that route. It will still look great over composite, but s-video is an amazing improvement.

Before touching WinDAS, read this:

Apparently, the P1110 does have a service menu, and it's possible to adjust the G2 without goofing around with WinDAS. This text document that I downloaded tells the story:

>I fixed this problem on my P1110 last night in 2 minutes with NO need for hardware modifications or expensive Sony software. This may not work for all P1110's, but it sure cured the "too bright" problem for me.

>- Turn off monitor.

>- Hold down the center front panel "set" button. While holding this button down, swich on monitor. Continue holding the "set" button for 4 seconds, release and immediately push again.

>- A password prompt will appear on screen. Enter "7711" using the monitor front panel set and arrow keys.

>- A service mode screen will come up.

>- Maneuver to the "Gray Scale" menu.

>- Set "Brightness" to 50% and "Contrast" to 90% (these are the same controls as the normal menu).

>- Adjust the "G2" setting down to the optimal brightness. This setting controls the feedback loop for all three R-G-B electron guns in the CRT. I set mine to a value of 125, but your optimal value may differ.

>- Turn monitor off and on to exit service mode.

>- Fine tune brightness and contrast with normal controls.

>-That's it!

If this procedure does work for you, great! But if it doesn't, a serial cable will not help you - instead, you'll need something called a USB-TTL cable to connect to the monitor so you can use WinDAS to fix the G2 being through the roof.

Positive, though I can't vouch for every adapter on the market of course :)

I'm sorry I didn't mean to claim it does line by line processing, I just meant that it doesn't do anything with a frame buffer which means there isn't real potential to cause lag as it's not performing any processing on the frames, as I understand it's simply transcoding the digital signal to analog. Even the odd refresh rates of my Neo Geo come through according to the info screen on my CRT, so it's not changing it to 60hz or anything either.

I am not claiming to be an expert on how it works however, I'm sure someone more knowledgable than me could chime in.

I did a simple test with mine when I bought it using the 240 suite manual lag test on a Genesis and there was no lag reported, identical to the same test on my PVM direct through SCART to RGB (Obviously it's the manual test so it's not scientific, but it was good enough for me)

Some random sites that eventually lead me to buying it if you'd like more information:

They confirm here that the fury is lag free.
https://www.videogameperfection.com/2013/06/04/lag-tester-review/

This is the thread where they were testing various adapters for OSSC usage, they talk a tiny bit about lag.

http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=59860

http://retrorgb.com/converters.html confirms that https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003O55U8K is lag free, and I trust his information generally.

I'm going to assume that the majority of hdmi to vga transcoders are essentially lag free since these are.

Obviously use your own judgment but I'm quite happy with my setup :) I originally planned to use the OSSC on my plasma tv until I discovered this usage for it, and it has remained attached to my CRT ever since. I just recently beat Link to the Past on my 1-Chip with this setup and it looked and played great.

As I do usually agree on the point of you get what you pay for, especially in this hobby, I've had great experiences with 2 different HDMI to VGA adapters that totalled $30. The TenDak and Portta respectively. Now, as they do exhibit some small loss of quality as compared to the HDFury or Sunix adapters. I still think they do a great job for the price. Not saying that they are better or even on par with the more pricier options, just that they eek out plenty of quality for the price and would be acceptable by most folks. But I'm 100% in agreement that if you want the absolute best quality then you should invest in a good adapter like an HDFury.

There's a S-Video input right on the back of that monitor. One side plugs directly into your console, the other into the monitor itself - super simple:

PS1/PS2/PS3 (official Sony brand and excellent quality, FYI)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N5JS5A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

SNES:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LE3EAIK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For NES, you'll also want to get a pack of these BNC to RCA connectors to use a regular RCA Composite cable off your NES: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005B4O4GG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I should add that I forgot to mention that Sega Genesis needs to be modded for S-Video - if your friend can help you mod the monitor for RGB it'll be a breeze for him (it's soldering like 5 single wires and a couple resistors - pretty darn easy). ---OR at that point, if you are actually modding the monitor for RGB, you'll probably forget about the S-Video and just use a regular SCART RGB cable or whatnot.

Also, if it makes your choice easier, S-Video really is excellent quality. You really have to see both side-by-side to notice any difference compared to RGB (especially if you're still new to all this - it's really just the finer smaller differences you can notice between the two connection types).

I've used similar converters, but never with a CRT. It looks like the monitor doesn't quite like the sync coming off of the converter.
 
For CRT monitor use, I've had good luck with this little Tendak one and I know a few other people that have used them with good results. And as a bonus, the design of it makes it easy to leave attached to the monitor.

Smash Brothers Melee supports 480p.

Because of this you have a great CRT alternative that looks great (high line count), has no lag, and is more readily available than a PVM - VGA monitors.

With proper cabling, VGA monitors can be used with PC, Xbox, Xbox 360, GameCube, Wii, PS2, Nuon (I think), and Dreamcast. With a scaler attached, any system goes (but you get a touch of lag).

You'll need a component to VGA transcoder to enable this. I think the easiest method is to use the Wii over component, and get an external Component to VGA transcoder, or get the https://www.amazon.com/Mayflash-Wii-PS3-VGA-HDTV-Cable/dp/B0015MISAG/ - "VGA cable" for Wii (which is basically a transcoder built into the cable).

PS - if you're in the Chicago area, I have 4 VGA monitors I'm giving away.

If you're OK with Standard Def - there are loads of people selling / giving away standard def TV sets that work great, look great, and have component input. Sony Trinitron sets are good, but in this range, many sets are great.

Either an HDMI->VGA DAC or a DP->VGA DAC is what you'd be after.

The former are cheaper for the most part, but not really capable of more than 1080p60(and it's 4:3 equivalent) to 1200p60(more so it's 4:3 equivalent UXGA). You'd need to move to a displayport based offering such as certain offerings from Sunix or Delock to go higher than that. Admittedly, that monitor won't be able to max out the latter, but is in the weird middle ground of "capable of more than the HDMI adapters but not quite high end enough to heavily justify the DP options".

This is the HDMI->VGA I usually recommend; https://www.amazon.com/Portta-3-5mm-Audio-Converter-support/dp/B003O55U8K/

I like it specifically because of the option to use an external power supply, which will allow it to work with devices which might not supply enough power over HDMI to run it that way; Stuff like Raspberry Pi and such especially.

https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Converter-Adapter-Portable-Connector/dp/B01B7CEOVK/

This is also another well recommended offering, especially if you don't need the external power option.

As for DP, this would be the go to for "I just need the higher spec'd DAC": https://www.ebay.com/itm/Delock-Adapter-DisplayPort-1-2-Stecker-VGA-Buchse-Adapter-Cable-Delock-NEU/133139481368

There are DisplayPort MST boxes that do more along with this, but if you just need something for your tube, it's not worth bothering with.

Thanks so much!
As for the S-video adapter, if I have an S-video cable for the Super Nintendo, for example, then would something like this work for getting the S-video quality on the monitor while still being compatible with the Super Nintendo?

EDIT: This is my Super Nintendo S-video cable

I agree, for many reasons. OP, if you go this route make sure you get a good component to VGA transcoder that doesn't add lag or degrade the signal horribly. I would highly recommend you get the Open Source Scan Converter (OSSC) and this Tendak HDMI-to-VGA stick (it's the best known HDMI-to-VGA for OSSC users), and then try to find a good VGA CRT. This is a really fantastic way of doing the VGA CRT thing. I can give you more info on this route if you are interested OP.

You're trying to tackle an issue that I was up against until this past weekend when I broke down and picked up a Sony CRT with component inputs, but here was where I ended up. I shared this in another thread as well ( https://redd.it/6cw74h ).

I use a couple of Extron Crosspoints to output to multiple devices, one of which only took S-Video / Composite. I was using this device to convert my component systems to S-Video. I had my RGB systems first go through this device to convert RGB to YPbPr (although I'd recommend the Shinybow SB-2840 as someone else mentioned), then to the monoprice device.

I hadn't had a lot of time to play / tinker with it when I posted in the other thread, and someone got me thinking to look further into the monoprice device. Much like what you mentioned about the specs you found, the monoprice device didn't convert 240p properly, and instead passed it along as 480i. Some of my systems were kinda OK with it, but others had some issues.

I would imagine the device RGB240P mentioned ( this ) would work since the guy that makes it deals with retro consoles. I've purchased RGB amps from him in the past and signed up on the waiting list for this device too.

I have the SB-2840, and I love the sucker. No noticeable lag or noise, and it actually appears to make intelligent sync decisions (preferring Sync-on-Luma, but accepting CSYNC and translating it to Sync-On-Luma seamlessly.) It has audio inputs, so you don't need to deal with an audio breakout cable. It doesn't need to be color adjusted like other popular transcoders.

One gotcha some people have reported is that it power supply included is sometimes not powerful enough. I swapped mine out for a common 12v 1A power brick immediately, so I never experienced this issue.

Using one on my Sony KV-20FS120 and it works great.

I'm assuming you mean YPbPr when you mean Component.

You can get something that has VGA (RGBHV) and get powered converter. RGBHV and YPbPr are very similar so a conversion between them would be negligible. In fact, some displays support a passive conversion (not powered). You could use something like this.

I've had good success with the Startech Component to VGA adapter. It's a bit old now and I'm sure there are cheaper things available. Just make sure it doesn't so any scaling, sharpening or other postprocessing.

Head here: http://geedorah.com/eiusdemmodi/forum/viewtopic.php?id=295
and get an AMD card that's in the supported cards list. Obviously the newer ones will have more power, but I've read roughly HD 5000 series and up is generally good. Also use this link to grab crt emudriver.

Make sure you have a DVI-I to VGA adapter, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-DVI-Cable-Adapter-DVIVGAMF/dp/B000067SOH

Next, get a VGA to 5BNC connector. Something like this, although https://www.amazon.com/Coax-HD15-RGBHV-Monitor-Cable/dp/B0033AF5Y0, although shop around if you want one with higher user reviews, that one has about 3 stars for some reason.

You can roughly follow this guide: http://geedorah.com/eiusdemmodi/forum/viewtopic.php?pid=1052#p1052

Although note that you won't have to disconnect your LCD display/main display while you install CRT emudriver. That's how I did it. I still have my main monitor connected and the crt emudriver monitor is a second monitor.

>> Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe this means I'm limited to keeping one console at a time plugged in receiving RGB.

Looking at your 'Electrical Data' sheet, it appears that SCART inputs 'AV2' and 'AV3' both support RGB.

>> I've heard some people say you can get Component out of the Loewe Aventos 3781 ZW as well but I haven't actually been able to find the RGB RCA ports anywhere on the TV myself. Am I missing something?

I think they mean component (YUV;YPbPr) over SCART, not component over RCA. On your electrical data sheet, it lists 'YUV' as a possible signal type for SCART input AV3. To use component you'll need to purchase a component RCA to SCART passthrough adapter.

I don't see any information about the VGA port that is shown in the picture. One thing I would be curious about is if this monitor will accept 15khz signals over the VGA port. Not many VGA monitors do but since this monitor accepts 15khz over other inputs it might. If so you could have the Wii plugin to the VGA port and it should work in both 480i and 480p modes.

So if you're lucky you might be able to do something like this:

PS 2: Component Cable to Digital Set-top Box

Wii: RGBHV into VGA port

Nintendo 64: S-Video over SCART cable into AV1

Super Nintendo: RGBS over SCART cable into AV2

Digital Set-top Box: Component cable into AV3, using pass-through SCART adapter.

Ya you definitely don't want to convert all the way down to Composite if your PVM accepts component, converting HDMI to Component will give you a much better picture which is why I assume you bought the PVM in the first place yes? BTW which PVM is that? I use one of these boxes for converting my Xbox One to component to play on my XBox One on my HDM 14E5U. Its about 35$

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JVNUAEI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You could also use one of the HDFury's but I think they all start at about 100$ for the very cheapest. Though they are a higher quality product. You do get what you pay for in this case, though for my the Portta plenty good enough and I'm pretty picky about video quality.

All of the units you mentioned are "Computer-Video Interfaces", you can see the full list of them here.


Initially I used them for that purpose. Helping to connect a PC to my PVM. (using CRT_emudriver) However they can be used for other things as well.


The most useful feature being the ability to center the image easily with H and V adjustments. Both H and V controls are only available in some models like 201, 202, 203, 302. Basically the Rxi line, and also the 302.


The Extron RGB 203 Rxi has been mentioned in a lot in forums so people seem to want that one (inflating the price) but the only difference between the 203 and the 201 is it has 3 inputs instead of 1. Get the 201 if you don't need them.


I like to take the output from my Crosspoint switch and run it through the interface, then in to monitor.

Crosspoint-> Extron RGB -> Monitor

This way all of the signals from the Crosspoint go through the interface, and can adjusted.

Regarding ADSP vs Enhance ADSP:

> ADSP™ - Advanced Digital Sync Processing — An Extron exclusive technology that > provides all-digital processing of sync signals, eliminating compatibility issues
> encountered when using analog sync processing with digital display devices.


> Enhanced ADSP™ — An Extron exclusive technology that provides all-digital
> processing of sync signals, eliminating compatibility issues encountered when using > analog sync processing with digital display devices.

I can't tell the difference other than Enhanced ADSP being in the later models.

More importantly you will find yourself using the DDSP switch to fix sync issues.

> DDSP™ - Digital Display Sync Processing — Allows the sync signal to pass through > without altering sync pulse or width. Disables other sync processing features such > as horizontal and vertical centering.

If you get BNC female to female adapters along with a VGA to BNC breakout cable you can plug anything in to it.

Yep you can do exactly what your describing using a SCART to Component adapter

A lot of people use this one

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XSSDPO

I've hear it's okay and does the job pretty good for the price

Just keep in mind this is not an upscaler so it will only work the way you describe and probably won't let you hook it up to an HDTV that doesn't accept 480i/240p

Edit: as said below this would be a much better option for not much more in price http://www.ani-av.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=220

I have the NEC sister monitor to yours and a GTX 1080. Your best option is gonna be the SUNIX DPU-3000. It will support all the really crazy high res modes your monitor will display. One caveat, though: Low res display modes don't work in my expirience so I can't get, say, 240p@120hz (or 140hz) to work, have to use one of the crappy adapters for that.

Here is the DPU 3000 for sale: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JART8HA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rO4pDb64AZ8H5

It is not cheap but it is a very good accesory for your LaCie. The one I linked is the -D2 model. The difference is only that -D2 comes with a cable with mini displayport on both ends whereas the other SKU comes with a displayport to mini displayport cable.

Your only other option AFAIK is to get a card that supports analog out natively. A quality card like the GTX 980 Ti will not be as cheap as the SUNIX DAC.

I use my OSSC on my 21" apple studio monitor via hdmi to vga adapter here Rankie HDMI to VGA Adapter with 3.5mm Audio Port (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GLtPCbYP5B3QG

Works pretty great in line double mode. I can get x3 and x4 working but I feel x2 is best.

Well first off, get yourself at least some S-video cables straight away. Some of them have some quality issues, I've had no significant interference problems with this one.

https://www.amazon.com/Gam3Gear-Nintendo-Gamecube-Video-Cable-Super/dp/B00LE3EAIK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519447659&sr=8-1&keywords=nintendo+s-video&dpID=511QkWlFQdL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

It's not the best, but it is dirt cheap and it doesn't have a normal composite line to bleed over into your s-video feed.

I don't know this set in particular, but it looks like a pretty decent pick up as far as free consumer sets go. According to my google, it has component, so if you really want to get cheeky, you can pick up an rgb to component converter and set up a snes or genesis with component.

CRT monitors likes this one will not accept any 240P input. You could plug in a dreamcast with VGA, but besides that you won't be able to hook much of anything into without an upscaler. The RetroTink 2X will line double 240p to 480p, which would work on that monitor. I would personally recommend getting an OSSC. The OSSC can line 2-5x up to 1080p which this monitor supports. If you run your consoles through the OSSC and then into this monitor via a tendak hdmi to vga adapter, all of your games would look amazing.

Nice, thanks for this info. Really appreciate it. This all sounds great (no lag, dumb switch, no conversion). I'm familiar with US consumer connections, but the professional world is new to me.

 

Any recommendations on break out cables to convert component / composite / s-video to and from BNC? Would something like this work?

 

Currently, I have an FV310 (and picking up a second tomorrow, but that's another story). I believe it only has 2 component connections, so at some point, I know I'll want more than that. I'll likely have SNES and Genesis over component, NES over composite, N64 over S-video. If I ever manage to get a PVM/BVM, I'll convert what I can to RGB. Some preliminary research suggested RGB mods are a thing for NES and N64, but I don't think this helps me if I don't have a display that accepts RGB.

Protip: don't buy the Atari switchbox or whatever, get yourself something like this. The quality is way better, it's more reliable, and cheaper. Pair it with a female rca to female coax adapter.

I love how you've hooked it up in the meantime.

https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Converter-Adapter-Portable-Connector/dp/B01B7CEOVK/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

This works for me pretty well. It supports HDMI 1.4 so it should handle up to 1080p@120hz. I've only used it up to 1080p@75hz. The black levels are great and I've gotten 0 lag when testing it with 240p test suite through VGA out on a second monitor.

To be honest, you would do well with the OSSC. Lesser devices might be too noisy scaling into a sharp PC CRT like the 2070SB.

Now, since that OSSC is HDMI out, you would need to also get an active HDMI->VGA adapter, specifically the Tendak is the one where black levels are not too disturbed.

Yep, all you need is an RCA to BNC plug adapter, https://www.amazon.com/Sienoc-Male-Female-Adapter-Connector/dp/B00KX17NGU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521254104&sr=8-3&keywords=rca+bnc, plug the adapter into one of the composite inputs, plug the RCA composite onto the adapter and away you go.

Using S-video can also be a good option if you want to be able to use pretty common cheap cables but still get quite a bit better quality than composite.

There is a s video cable for the ps1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000N5JS5A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487642704&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ps3+s+video&dpPl=1&dpID=413hPW-NdeL&ref=plSrch heres a link to a good high quality one it fits the ps1 ps2 and ps3 and here is a good quality snes n64 and gamecube s video cable https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LE3EAIK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487642829&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=snes+s+video&dpPl=1&dpID=41r4XvjGatL&ref=plSrch hope this helps

#1 - your in for a world of hurt, see this link.

#2 - You mean like these here, link?

#3 - Yowza, what are you trying to do, link!

​

New to all this myself, but had similar questions and been learning last 2 weeks..

​

good luck

oNe

The only PVMs I could find for sale in my state were very limited and at the most 9 inches, which is far too small for my liking. I decided to look around for trinitrons which obviously were far more common. Although there is not much info about Australian sets out there, I found a couple of listings that actually bothered to show what ports it had and I found plenty of ones with component. My question is for hooking it up to the TV, will I need a simple cable like this one (25 AUD) or an actual box like this one (I think the price is in USD, making it 65 AUD) Obviously in my currency the price difference is pretty big, so I wanna make sure I don't overspend when I don't need to.

Your best bet is to get the active Benfei adapter for $8 off Amazon.

It can’t do RGB at max resolution but if you set your output to yprbr it can do 1920x1200@85hz.

If you WANT you can waste money on a Sunix and get full RGB, but honestly it’s not worth the 5-10x the price depending on stock and they all have some issues where the bottom band of pixels displays on top.

The benfei is also amazing for PS3 XBox360 etc.

Sunix https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JART8HA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2ukCDb60YRCWX

Benfei https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KLKQN9U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wykCDbQ6MSA1X

The fuck am I being downvoted for? Nothing I said was incorrect. I own every product on this list and the FW900...

Used one of these guys,

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000067SM6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks to /u/KyaDash:

>If by component card, you mean this, the IF-C01COMG, it also supports RGB, and RGBHV at that. You just need to switch it to RGB mode(something I wouldn't be able to tell you how to do).
Hooking a PC up to that would be even easier than a PVM or BVM, given that you can use the standard separate horizontal and vertical sync that VGA uses rather than combining it into C-Sync.
In that case, you'd want to get a VGA to 5BNC like these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000067SM6/
http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=566
On the other hand, if you do have some odd card that does only support YPbPr and not RGB(INCREDIBLY unlikely), no, the cable you showed will not work for what you're trying to do.

It may only work with a monitor like the JVC I have due to the sync situation but I'm not 100% sure and don't have a Sony PVM to test it on.

If this method doesn't work, you can always follow the guide's method:

http://wavebeam.blogspot.com/2016/02/the-groovycube-diy-console-that-plays.html

An HDMI to VGA adapter will give you DB15 output, from which you can use a regular DB15 (VGA) cable to go to the RGB interface. A very good and cheap adapter is this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B7CEOVK/

If you're willing to spend more for extra quality, the HD Fury 3 is most likely the best adapter to get this job done. I also recommend using an HDMI switch or splitter with audio extractor to get digital audio out, instead of having to use the analog audio from the adapter.

Depending on the signal you may need to use the DDSP and SERR switches on the Interface.

It may sound like a bit of a hassle but it's not that bad honestly, and it's totally worth it. BTW don't even bother with HD-SDI to get HD stuff into your D24, the results are considerably inferior. Even the component route is better.

I got the Mayflash VGA cable for Wii and it works fine with my VGA CRT.

Does this cable actually convert a non RGB signal? It seems to output pretty good quality.

Lots of cool monitors. The easiest way for you to find out if they work is to get a BNC to RCA adapter. You would just plug that adapter into the line A "video in" line and then plug in any RCA video cable(the yellow cable from the usual yellow, red, and white cables) from any game console, VCR, or DVD player.

Are you interested in keeping one for yourself for gaming?

Crtemudriver already outputs 1 sync(csync) over the hsync pin of vga when you set it to in vmmaker(the program used to configure your allowed modelines). To get it into a pvm all you need is a vga to 5 bnc breakout cable and to plug hsync(first plug after rgb plugs) into the external sync bnc jack. Ex. here:https://www.amazon.com/10Ft-Coaxial-RGBHV-Cable-Ferrites/dp/B01FNAO9O4/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=vga+to+bnc&qid=1570031901&sr=8-6


and here: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Coax-RGBHV-Monitor-Cable/dp/B0033AF5Y0/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=vga+to+bnc&qid=1570031901&sr=8-4

The first one can go right from your video card's vga port into your pvm, the second can go from your vga port to a bnc cable to your pvm or using a vga female to female adapter can connect to a vga cable(which is connected to the video card), then to bnc male to male couplers on your pvm's bnc jacks. You can buy different/cheaper cables those are just examples of what they should look like.


If you have a JVC TM-H or DT-V monitor(or many presentation monitors and some ikegamis) you can just stick with h+v sync and plug all 5 lines in, which is what I do. I have to keep crtemudriver on h+vsync to use a few of my converters/sync processors anyway and my main monitor is a 1950cg. Cheers!

I guess we'll see. It's showing up tomorrow. There are reviews for it that state that they used it to connect from PC to 480i CRTs. I've seen a few youtube videos that have shown this as well. You can use things like CRUto create custom resolutions/refresh rates but you can actually do this through the Nvidia Control Panel as well, so I'll be starting there.

There are some in-depth guides here as well, like this one.

The specific device I got is this one. I'll report back once I've had some time to mess around with it.

I posted here before about this but didn't have an image at the time showcasing the issue. I imagine seeing what's going on can better help you guys identify the problem.

I'm attempting to use a scart cable on my model 1 genesis, and run that through a ypbpr converter to display it on a digital tv. I'm using this converter: https://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=scart+converter&qid=1558425306&s=gateway&sr=8-5
As well as retro gaming cables model 1 genesis rgb scart cable and a hd retrovision ypbpr component cable.

So for the most part you'll probably just want to get a set of RGB SCART to BNC breakout cables. These will hook up to the RGB inputs on your monitor and have a standard SCART plug on the other end.

Luckily for you, I believe the PAL N64 actually supports RGB output unlike the version that was released over here in the US. The Dreamcast and PS1 also have native RGB SCART output.

I believe the Retro Trio only outputs composite video or HDMI, so for this you'll want to buy a BNC to RCA adapter, and plug the yellow video cable into it on the Video A or Video B input on your monitor.

This is what I bought. Portta HDMI to 1080P Component Video (YPbPr) RGB + R/L Scaler Converter Adapter with R/L Audio output Support PS3, PS4, Blu-ray Player, DVD, XBOX, Notebook , Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JVNUAEI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_p9gJDbA7NDTYG

It does the job and I’m happy. Also it lets you select between progressive and interlace which a lot of the others do not.

Chiming in to agreem this is a perfectly good method. For the record, you won't get natural scanlines if that matters to you. Aside from that though it looks great.

This Tendak adapter is the most commonly recommended and I have it as well. Many HDMI -> VGA adapters crush blacks, but Tendak's doesn't and is cheap. If you want to look at other adapters that have been tested for this they're here!

I got this one a few weeks ago. People say you need to open it up to adjust colors, but I didn't end up having to do that for mine, so I guess your results will vary. I also had to mod mine for audio pass through, which wasn't too hard, but if you don't have soldering skill you'll need a SCART audio breakout adapter. Once I got it set up, the picture looks fantastic.

This one has been recommended several times:

Portta HDMI to VGA Video... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003O55U8K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I bought one a couple of months ago, and it works great.

That's fine actually. I personally use this, as it offers more flexibility for sync options (it can carry just about anything, including raw sync on the gray lead). It's also a little longer.

Make sure you're plugging the BNCs into the loop-through output of the PVM, not the input.

This is the free Viewsonic P225fb I picked up, I got this adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B7CEOVK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Which works well for this purpose.

UltraHDMI is set to 480p direct mode (linedoubled) and it looks pristine.

You need to convert the HDMI out to RF with something like this:
https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-hdmi-to-coax-adapter?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_KuCtvTn2QIVzrXACh1eQA1wEAQYBCABEgLXqPD_BwE

Then use a coaxial to antenna adapter like this:
https://www.amazon.com/300-Ohm-UHF-Matching-Transformer/dp/B0002ZPIOG

You'll also need a coax cable to connect the two.

I've been using this HDMI to Component converter for around a year and have been pretty happy with it. It does a solid job of downscaling 1080p and 720p content from my streaming sticks (currently a 4K Fire Stick) to 480i on the Sony Trinitron I have in the bedroom.

However, preserving the proper aspect ratio could be a problem. The streaming stick outputs widescreen video and the converter preserves that aspect ratio but the old tube TV will stretch that image and fill the screen. Fortunately, my Trinitron has a setting in the menu called "16:9 Enhanced" and when enabled it will restore the image to its proper aspect ratio (i.e., a letterboxed, widescreen image rather than a stretched, distorted image). You'd just have to dig around in the menu to see if your TV has settings that support properly displaying a widescreen signal on a 4:3 display.

I do this: 1080 ti to DP to VGA Adapter to ultimate Scart Adapter to PVM. Set up 240p using custom res utility. I got the settings from someone on here, would be happy to send them to you.

Even the cheapest ones like these?

https://www.amazon.it/Rankie-Adattatore-Displayport-1080P-Nero/dp/B00Z08TZNU/ref=sr_1_3?__mk_it_IT=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=1RQ76GIUVTC9S&keywords=displayport+vga&qid=1561993616&s=gateway&sprefix=displayport%2Caps%2C176&sr=8-3

​

https://www.amazon.it/Rankie-Adattatore-1080P-Micro-Uscita/dp/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=sr_1_3?__mk_it_IT=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&keywords=hdmi+vga&qid=1561993642&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I get Specialty-AV unit off of Amazon. Works great, can't see any graphical issues and I doubt the Shinybow gets any sharper really.

https://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504620554&sr=8-1&keywords=scart+to+ypbpr

I picked it up from Amazon after seeing one like it on this subreddit...

Allsop Metal Art Jr. Monitor... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0036RA5EA?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I'm using a 14M2U and I use this cable

It has 5 BNC cables, with separate cables for H and V sync, but if you enable csync in vmmaker, the grey cable becomes sync and the black cable does nothing.

Works perfectly for me! :)

I used to have one of these that I would use to play SSBM. I used a Wii and this cable. What's the difference between using a cable like that and a transcoder like the one you mentioned? Is there some kind of loss in quality with the cable?

https://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO

I use this exact one.I had to open it and tweak the potentiometers because the colors were slightly off but otherwise it works very well.

A device I use often for my Xbox and Gamecube is the Startech.com CPNT2VGAA; tested to have 1 microsecond of lag. https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-CPNT2VGAA-Component-Video-Converter/dp/B0014BL9PO

There was oscilloscope testing done in the "perfect setup thread" on competitive smash bros forum Smashboards.com

Its hard to say. I don't even know what the program "regsvr32" is or does, really. All I know is that it allows your PC and WinDAS to use that missing ActiveX / msflxgrd.ocx file. And WinDAS NEEDS it.

When you are successful, you'll get this message:

http://www.piclist.com/images/com/geocities/www/gregua/windas/flxinstall.png

I am terrible with syntax and it usually takes me 5 or 6 attempts of "what was that command again? what switches? etc" to do things like this. That image is reminding me. You might want to try this command at the end of my last instructions if it didn't work.

I had said

​

>Now you are in C:\Windows\System32\ and all of the msflxgrd.ocx files are copied, type this to register/install it.
>
>regsvr32 C:\WINDOWS\system32\msflxgrd.ocx

​

try this instead

​

>Now you are in C:\Windows\System32\ and all of the msflxgrd.ocx files are copied, type this to register/install it.
>
>C:\Windows\System32\regsvr32 C:\Windows\System32\msflxgrd.ocx

I am 90 days removed from the time I sat down and did this, but I'm am almost certain that this is what you are missing from the install process. WinDAS is an outdated tech relic for monitors built in 1999, but it works on a moden OS with its dependencies in place.

You know what the COM port is for matching USB port. You know that the 5V Power Lead is RED and the Ground is the BLACK lead. You've tried switching RX and TX leads because they connect to their opposites and not RX-to-RX and TX-to-TX. You've Read the labels on the monitors board, to know what pin is what.

You're so close. WinDAS is just a pain to install and the instructions are sketchy and it seems that no one curates a real fix for it.

When WinDAS is working, it will show no errors and will allow you to select your Model Number from a list (F2).

Good luck. I really don't have much more.

EDIT: Then again, who knows. Maybe you really do get what you paid for. But my $7 choice from an equally sketchy Amazon seller is questionable too.

https://www.amazon.com/JBtek-WINDOWS-Supported-Raspberry-Programming/dp/B00QT7LQ88/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1546722499&sr=1-7&keywords=PL2303

Maybe it is what you need. I can't say.

You'd need something like this (https://www.amazon.ca/RCA-Compact-RF-Modulator-CCRF907/dp/B0014KKV7W) to accomplish your goal since professional monitors don't tend to have channels that you can tune to to use RF. Don't expect much in terms of quality out of any choice that you go with since RF is crap.

Tendak Active 1080P Female HDMI to VGA Male Converter Adapter Dongle with 3.5mm Stereo Audio portable HDMI Connector for Laptop PC PS3 Xbox STB Blu-ray DVD TV Stick https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B7CEOVK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HAOZzbZJ7YJRR

Haven't had any issues.

I've used this one for a couple year now. Works really well. Just needed to open it and adjust the colors a bit with a Philips head screwdriver.

I'm using this: https://www.amazon.com/Portta-Component-Converter-Scaler-support/dp/B00JVNUAEI

There's a few options out there though. Whichever you choose just make sure it inputs and outputs 480i. Some only do 480p, some accept 480i but don't output it.

Dummy here. Just picked up a Sony PVM-1354Q and realized my GameCube component cables do not fit in the RGB/Component inputs on the back of the set.

Do I need something like these to convert component to BNC?
https://smile.amazon.com/Sienoc-BNC-Female-Adapter-Connector/dp/B00KX17NGU/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1541209906&sr=1-3&keywords=rca+female+to+bnc+male

Back photo for reference:
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/BaQAAOSwK3ZbdeDQ/s-l1600.jpg

>FW900 has some kind of coating

Yeah, it's easily removed, I prefer it without it, it's not worse glossy LCD glare, but there was some talk in the [H]ard forum thread about replacing it.
I'm not sure how important it is, maybe it reduces halation due to internal reflections?

Mine had a "dirty film" look, and it allowed for more brightness with it removed, I didn't notice any downsides.

>Could you be a little more specific which converters you used?

Dreamcast to hdmi via cheap no name adapter (not recommend it) and then a standard hdmi cable, and then tendak hdmi to vga adapter

Big fan of these little stands:

https://www.amazon.com/Allsop-Monitor-14-Inch-platform-keyboard/dp/B0036RA5EA?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_8

Something like this should work well for you:
https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Compact-RF-Modulator-CRF907A/dp/B0014KKV7W/
I have no personal experience with this modulator, but this type of thing is what you want.

https://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO

they exist, and in my experience work well

First, you'll want a UHF to VHF adapter, then connect that to an RF modulator. Most VCRs should be able to to this, or you can get a standalone modulator.

Without modding, all you can do is use Composite, seeing as there's no S-Video on your TV. If you're not opposed to modding, the site retrorgb.com has links to a modding service to add RGB to an N64, which can then be converted to Component with a device like this: https://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO

Je pense pas l'autre prise sert a brancher une antenne.
Pour être plus précis j'utilise ce modulateur rf acheté en import américain : https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Compact-RF-Modulator-CRF907A/dp/B0014KKV7W

Mayflash make Wii to VGA cables. Get those.

https://www.amazon.com/Mayflash-Wii-PS3-HDTV-Cable-Nintendo/dp/B0015MISAG

amazon $12 rn

its in one of the comments above https://www.amazon.com/Allsop-Monitor-14-Inch-platform-keyboard/dp/B0036RA5EA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538187116&sr=8-1&keywords=allsop+jr&dpID=41fHAsrt0JL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

​

This one

RGB is a different signal than component(YPbPr). You will need a SCART to component transcoder or a SCART to HDMI converter to get the signal to your capture card. The PVM won't convert the signal for you, it will only pass the signal.

https://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004XSSDPO/ref=crt_ewc_title_gw_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ADXERLXGK7AZN

I was thinking of getting this and some RGB scart cables for my Genesis/Saturn, any thoughts?

This fella?

I can vouch for these:


SPECIALTY-AV SCART to Component Video Converter for Sega, Genesis, Atari
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XSSDPO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nCoPDbV9X23ZZ

You can get them on eBay too.

https://www.amazon.com/Portta-Component-Converter-Scaler-support/dp/B00JVNUAEI

Same brand as this one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KX17NGU?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2 for adapter and stock nes cables. Just the yellow one that came in the box.

Would this TTL adapter work? https://www.amazon.com/JBtek-WINDOWS-Supported-Raspberry-Programming/dp/B00QT7LQ88/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+to+ttl&qid=1555471545&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Rankie HDMI to VGA Adapter with... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00ZMV7RL2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I use one of these, https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Converter-Adapter-Portable-Connector/dp/B01B7CEOVK

I read about it in a article where they tested different HDMI to VGA converters but I can't find the link to the article.

I am using this hdmi to vga adapter.

I use this one and it works flawlessly. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Z08TZNU/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have no issues sending a 120hz 240p signal through it to my Trinitron if that's what you're looking to buy it for.

I have an HDMI to component adapter which works fairly well for most content. It'll take most HD signals and allow you to scale down to 480i. However, it does not adjust the aspect ratio from 16:9 to 4:3. I don't believe the Switch supports setting a 4:3 aspect ratio. It will likely cut off the edges of the screen unless your TV has a 16:9 mode. My JVC D-Series does not have a 16:9 enhanced mode, but some Trinitrons do have this mode. The adapter I have is about $30 so it is little risk to give it a try. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F6URXYY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i ordered the one you linked above, this one that a guy had reviewed and talked a bit about on his own blog for a similar reason, and then ordered a replacement for the one i have now just in case it's just a faulty adapter. here's hoping at least one works.

​

thanks for all your help, btw. knowing the vernacular and all that had thrown me for a loop, but i think i at least understand the basics of my problem now.

Ow yeah my bad, I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B7CEOVK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

It works fine with hdmi from my pc, so I doubt it's the transcoder.

I ordered this component to VGA transcoder off Amazon today.

It looked like most of the bad reviews were people expecting it to upscale or deinterlace.

I'm using this converter https://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO I'm not sure, how can I tell? Also should I buy higher quality cables?

I have an old CRT TV that only has an RF input connection. Would I be able to use an HDMI to composite adapter like this and a composite to RF converter like this to connect it to my PC? I understand RF is the worst video connection, but will it look acceptable? Will there be any problems with either 240p or 480i inputs?

The picture on my VGA CRT keeps going in and out and I cant get a stable picture. I'm trying to get picture on other consoles and a PC with Groovymame/Hyperspin on it that already works fine with my PVM.

I'm using this HDMI to VGA adapter that is plugged into my OSSC. Thoughts on what might be wrong?

https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Converter-Adapter-Portable-Connector/dp/B01B7CEOVK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=tendak+hdmi+vga&qid=1557441198&s=gateway&sr=8-1

This is the gold standard I think. I use one with no loss of quality.