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According to the brochure that came with my Hatchbox PLA, their TPU has the best rating for flexibility and has a nozzle temp of 190-235 and a platform temp of 20-55. You might need to use the older xyzWare and set the temps manually. PA and PC are rated almost as highly for flexibility, but PC comes with a recommended 90-105 °C platform temp, which is beyond the range of my Da Vinci.

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It's not particularly flexible, but I like this PETG https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-PETG-3D-Printer-Filament/dp/B07D6BMBNT/.

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I struggled with the xyzPrinting cartrige that came with my printer (ABS) due to warping and pulling away from the bed. I got some PLA from Hatchbox that worked much better. But I struggled with it bonding too strongly to the blue painters tape and scratched and gouged the aluminum bed pretty good getting a few pieces off.

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Then I got an 8x8 mirror ( https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P15TH5S/) and clipped it on to the top of my aluminum bed and haven't had any bed adhesion problems since. I don't put anything on it. Just clean it with a bit of rubbing alcohol or a pump of eye glasses cleaner spray and wipe down with a microfiber / low lint cloth.

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The PETG provides the best of ABS and PLA - harder and higher melting point like ABS, but minimal warping and no bed adhesion issues (on a clean mirror). However, the newer xyz Print app does not handle the bed temperature properly. I did get slight warping on larger pieces until I realized the bed was not warm enough (~45°C instead of 80°C). I went back to using the older xyzWare Pro (version 1.1.26.2) which lets me set the nozzle and bed temperatures as part of the print profile. Zero issues since. And it costs about the same, and comes in a wide variety of colors, so I can't see any reason to use ABS or PLA when PETG is available.

I bought a Davinci 1.0 last year when it was on sale at Amazon. Flashed Repetier on it, and I've been cranking out a ton of ABS stuff with it.

To make things stick I've been using buildtak. Works really well, but make sure you re-calibrate your bed, because it will add some height. If you print to close to it, the plastic will go into the material and fuse with it, making both the buildtak and part unusable.

Best $20 bucks you can spend imho.

I'm pretty sure this was it. Measure yours with a caliper to make sure. 1/4" PT Male Thread 6mm Straight Pneumatic Push in Quick Fitting Connectors for PETF Tube 10Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BLRG8SH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7uBDDbJQ8JKDE

If you're having trouble calibrating and tearing your hair out because you can't get it right, do yourself a favour and buy this app

http://www.amazon.com/Drammas-Research-LLC-DaVinci-Calibrator/dp/B00LDBC7YC

Is only $2 and after spending hours calibrating over and over again, I caved and bought the app and I was done after two runs.

Your sanity is worth more than $2, trust me

elmers is great, six pack dirt cheap (http://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Disappearing-Purple-School-E1560/dp/B00143UIC2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1453149823&sr=8-2&keywords=elmers+stick)

Personally I'm still using direct-drive, not Bowden, which is why I'm swapping out the extruder motor for a smaller one. The one I'm using is this one, and you can find details about how to set up the wiring harness on soliforum if you're not confident in rewiring it yourself just going by a multimeter and the spec sheet.

If you're just gonna do a bowden setup though, you may as well just stick with the stock motor since there's no real reason to change it- the whole idea of a bowden extruder is to keep the weight of your extruder off the moving parts of the nozzle, so you can print faster, meaning you won't need to reduce the weight of the motor itself.