Top products from r/dbotcorexy

We found 21 product mentions on r/dbotcorexy. We ranked the 19 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/dbotcorexy:

u/IAmDotorg · 1 pointr/dbotcorexy

What bed are you using? If its aluminum, you may want to go 110v rather than 12/24v because its got much higher thermal mass and takes a good bit more energy to heat up. If you're going PEI on top, its also a thermal insulator, so you need a bit more oomph to get it heated up quickly.

I'm using this one: https://www.amazon.com/approx-KEENOVO-Universal-Flexible-Silicone/dp/B00V81ZI70

It heats up the bed very quickly, maintains temperature very evenly, and is extremely well made. You just need to get a DC/AC SSR to control it. The Duet will report a warning that its overpowered when you run the heater calibration on it, but its overpowered in a good way. I installed a second dedicated power switch and plug on the printer for the 110v circuit, so I can power the Duet with the bed shut off or unplugged (which is safer for screwing around with the printer).

Make sure you run a line from the ground pin on your 110v feed to the aluminum frame on the printer, so if you ever get a short, it'll run power to ground and trip a GFCI outlet/breaker rather than making you dead when you touch it.

It took maybe three weeks to get, even from Amazon, but I think it was worth the wait.

Edit: if you go that route, I uploaded to Thingiverse a protective cap for the particular solid state relay I used that better protects the 110v circuit from accidental contact: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2497356

u/Luxin · 1 pointr/dbotcorexy

Hey, that's my saw! Too funny. Just make sure it is straight and true. It worked great for my D-BOT. Just be ready for tiny aluminum shavings to go flying all over the place.

Use a machinest square to check the saw, something like this - https://www.amazon.com/BL-123-Precision-Steel-1-2-3-Blocks/dp/B00092CJC6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1497885240&sr=8-6&keywords=machinist+square.

u/Swordandbuckler · 1 pointr/dbotcorexy

yes, but you need the right size. Red is the smallest size you can get at the local hardware store, but it is too big for most 3D printer wiring. I got a bag of smaller ones on amazon and they worked great:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GDFFKQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

edit: You can do things to make the red ones work like folding the end of the wire over to double the thickness, but the ones i listed were just a lot easier to work with.

u/tenmonkeysinacircle · 1 pointr/dbotcorexy

It's the same one I've bought except for mine being for 220V. You should be around 6 A at 110 V, so your SSR should handle that without a trouble. Keenovo recommended me to use a fuse for around 165 Celcius, so unless you want your bed to go hotter than that I'd stick to that. They also mentioned the maximum suggested temp for their heater being 233, but I really wouldn't go there.

At a quick glance, found this guy on amazon https://www.amazon.com/THERMODISC-G4A01167C-FUSE-THERMAL-pieces/dp/B011CQKYEW. But there are a lot of 10 amp 250V fuses in that form factor with different temperature ratings out there, so just pick up any at your favourite electronics vendor. It's a bit tricky to solder them and you should insulate it pretty well, but in my case I felt it was worth it just for the peace of mind.

u/Kip-Casper · 1 pointr/dbotcorexy

Thanks for the safety advice, that's obviously something I want to be careful with. I'm looking at getting this keenovo 200x300mm heater and this SSR. What kind of fuses do you recommend for something like this?

u/illuminatikartoffel · 1 pointr/dbotcorexy

You can still use a resistor and or something like this to put the voltage down to 12v for the fans:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01EFUHFDU/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8

And I see you have a d bot?I was looking forward to build one, is it good?

u/sharpie15 · 1 pointr/dbotcorexy

Yes But only 1 motor Turns if I swap the pins on the control board then then that one moves and not the other.

Yes.

Control Board

u/GrizFyrFyter1 · 1 pointr/dbotcorexy

My Chinese one capped out. Got this one a week ago. So far so good


WerFamily SSR Solid State Relay SSR-40DD DC-DC 3-32V DC / 5-250V DC / 40A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPT9GG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3p0vzbECND6MA

u/theOTHERbrakshow · 1 pointr/dbotcorexy

I know this is old post but when i frist build my D-Bot is couldn't get the gantry to move worth a damn. It all stemmed from the awful Chinese bearings in the wheels. The worst part was that it was nearly impossible to get the bearings out of the wheels without nicking the delrin.. I endded up getting all new wheels from open builds and some good quailty bearings. Everything moves like butter since. I truly believe its worth the extra $$

u/mmdoogie · 1 pointr/dbotcorexy

I used a miter saw for my dbot but in the past I've cut a lot of extrusion with my small circular saw with a similar setup and this blade has worked really well. Not real cheap though.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XREDX2/

u/DinnerMilk · 1 pointr/dbotcorexy

Found a guy (well reviewed) in another city that basically does anything construction related. He said he can cut them for me but his minimum job price is $75. For the price, I am leaning towards just ordering this $99 10" Miter Saw and this $22 10" Non-Ferrous Saw Blade, taking it to the Maker Space and cutting it there.

Do those look like they will be good enough to get the job done? I am a bit concerned, I have one of my pieces measured out to being 1496mm of a 1500mm piece (increased all of the Z frame pieces by 100mm). Worried the blade cut may possibly be too thick for that to work.

u/Sparrowclaw · 3 pointsr/dbotcorexy

Here's my setup: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2167304

I think you're on the right track (3 screws, 1 motor). My setup is 1.875:1 gearing (30T on screws to 16T on motor) and there's plenty of torque with these motors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QEYADRQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1