Top products from r/dbotcorexy
We found 21 product mentions on r/dbotcorexy. We ranked the 19 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
1. STEPPERONLINE 5PCS Nema 17 Stepper Motor Bipolar 2A 84oz.in 48mm 4-Lead for 3D Printer/CNC
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
5pcs/ Package59Ncm(83.6oz.in) holding torqueNEMA 17 bipolar 1.65"x1.65"x1.85" 4-wire1.8 deg. step angle(200 steps/rev)Rated current 2.0A & resistance 1.4ohms
2. WerFamily SSR Solid State Relay SSR-40DD DC-DC 3-32V DC / 5-250V DC / 40A
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Product name: Single Phrase Solid State Relay; Model: WF-ASH-A-DD-40DDControl Mode: DC to DC; Control Voltage: 3 - 32VDC; Output Voltage: 5 - 250VDCRelay size: 57.4 x 44.8 x 28mm/2.26 x 1.76 x 1.1inch (L*W*H)Sealed high temperature resistance housing. Transparent resin protective cap is included.Out...
3. BIQU MKS-BASE V1.5 Plate Controller Board for 3D Printer Ramps 1.4
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Arduino MEGA compatible Atmega2560 and FT232 processors are compatible with all RAMPS class firmware.4 layers PCB, optimize heat dissipation.Easy DISPLAY + SD-CARD connector, RepRap Discount SmartController compatible pin header on board.Up to 5 motor driver with A4982.Recoverable fuse for short-cir...
4. DC 24v to 12v Step Down Converter Reducer Regulator 5A 60W Power Supply Adapter for Auto Car Truck Vehicle Boat Solar System etc.(Accept DC15-40V Inputs)
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
DC 24V to DC 12V Step Down Converter. (15-40V Wide Range Input) Max Current 5A 60W.Waterproof alloy housing makes the converter ideal for use in a wide range of applications including vehicles, security systems, hospital equipment, telecommunications etcBuilt-in over-voltage, under-voltage, overload...
5. Hammer Drop-in M5 T Nut for 20mm T-Slot/V-Slot Aluminum Extrusions (Pack of 100)
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Compatible with: Misumi 5 Series, Openbuilds V-Slot, Openbuilds C-Beam, and other standard 20mm aluminum extrusions with a 6mm slotCan be dropped into the slot post-assembly.M5-0.8 thread; nickel-plated steelComes in a pack of 100 nuts
6. 5 Pcs Aupo Thermal Fuse TF Cutoff 184C 250V 10A BF184
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Brand: Aupo , Model No.: BF184Function Temperature : 184C , Rated Current: 10AHolding Temp.: 159C , Max. Temp: 210CRated Voltage: 250V(AC) , RoHS: YesApplications: Electric home appliances, electric industeial equipments, office automation equipments, plain paper copiers, transformers, motors, etc.
7. 200 X 300mm (8" x 12" Approx.) 110V 600W, with 3M PSA & NTC 100K thermistor, KEENOVO Silicone Heater Mat/Pad,3D Printer HeatBed
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Excellent heat source for your 3D printer heatbed3M PSA for easy mountingCan be Versatile and serve your other heating applications600W,110V;200X300mm, Custom Heater Design WelcomeItem Location: Shanghai, China
8. THERMODISC G4A01167C FUSE, THERMAL, 167 C, 10A, 250V
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
<b>Order Unit:</b> Each 1 <b>Functioning Temperature:</b>: 167 <b>Fuse Current:</b>: 10 <b>Fuse Terminals:</b>: Axial Leaded <b>Holding Temperature:</b>: 142 <b>Product Range:</b>: MICROTEMP Series <b>SVHC:</b>: To Be Advised <b>Voltage Rating VAC:</b>: 250
9. 5x10x4mm Precision Ball Bearings ABEC 3 Rubber Seals (10) MR105-2RS-BU
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Replaces: Axial: AXA1218, Arrma: AR610002, ECX: ECX1015, Losi: LOSA6954, HPI: B021Replaces: Traxxas: 5115, TLR: TLR6932, Team Associated: 25237, Vaterra: VTR237004
10. 300 X 300mm (Approx. 12" X 12") 120V 750W, KEENOVO Universal Flexible Silicone Heater Mat/Pad, 3D Printer Heated Bed Heating Element
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Wonderful silicone heater for your 3D printer heat-bed. Fast Heating with 5.2W per square inch.surface mount NTC 100K thermistor ( R-T table available)3M adhesive backing offers excellent and easy mounting.Versatile and may be used in many other applications.Item Location: Shanghai, China
11. BL-123 Pair of 1" x 2" x 3" Precision Steel 1-2-3 Blocks
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Our Part # ALL-55500Heat treated and case hardened to HRC 57-62. Made of precision-grade tool steel hardened and ground on all 6 sides of blockAccuracy and squareness on all sides within .0001"-.0002"23 holes includes (5) 3/8-16 threaded holes for clamping and (18) untapped holes Cross drilling desi...
12. Concord Blades ACB1000T100HP 10-Inch 100 Teeth TCT Non-Ferrous Metal Saw Blade
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
TCG Grind: Triple Chip Grind allows for smooth cut on non ferrous and plastic itemsUltra sharp, hard titanium carbideIdeal for cutting non ferrous metals such as Aluminum, Brass, copper, bronze and more as well as plastics, plexiglass, PVC, Acrylics & FiberglassEquipment use with Circular Saw, Miter...
13. Gizmo Dorks 1.75mm Acetal Delrin Filament POM 1kg / 2.2lbs for 3D Printers, White
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
High quality acetal 3D printer filament comes vacuum sealed with a desiccant packPOM filament temperatures - hot end nozzle: 210 - 220 C; bed temperature: 110 CAcetal printed parts have great strength and low friction, ideal for impact parts or gear wheelsAcetal warps during the print so an enclosed...
14. OSOYOO 12864 LCD Graphic Smart Display Controller module with connector adapter & cable for RepRap RAMPS 1.4 3D Printer kit Arduino Mega 2560 R3 Shield
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
15. J-B Weld 31314 High Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker and Sealant - Red - 3 oz.
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
HI TEMP RED SILICONE GASKET MAKER & SEALANT: Is an RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanized) Silicone gasketing material, designed for use in mechanical assemblies where the existence of higher, continuous temperatures up to 550º F or 650º F intermittent might existCOUNT ON US: For more than 40 years, our...
16. uxcell Solid State Relay + Heat Sink SSR-25 DA 25A 3-32V DC / 24-380V AC
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Brand: Uxcell; Model: SSR-25 DAInput Voltage: 3-32V DC; Output Voltage: 24-380V AC; Max Load Current: 25AMaterial: Aluminum, Electric Parts; Net Weight: 199gWidely used in many automatic control systemsPackage: 1 x Solid State Relay(within heat sink and thermal conductivity silicone grease)
17. Morris Products Nylon-Insulated Butt Splice Connectors – Yellow Color-Coded for Identification – Corrosion-Resistant, Electrolytic Tubular Copper – 26-22 Wire Range – cULus Listed– Pack of 100
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
SIMPLIFIED ELECTRICAL SPLICING: Simplify the process of electrical splicing with this nylon-insulated butt splice connector that is color coded for easy identification.HIGH-QUALITY ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT: This pack of 100 nylon-insulated butt splice connectors offers a high-quality construction with a...
18. Oshlun SBNF-054050 5-3/8-Inch 50 Tooth TCG Saw Blade with 20mm Arbor (5/8-Inch and 10mm Bushings) for Aluminum and Non Ferrous Metals
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Fits: 5-3/8 and 5-1/2-Inch SawsNegative Hook AngleTriple Chip Tooth GrindProfessional Grade C-1 Carbide
19. Hitachi C10FCE2 15-Amp 10-inch Single Bevel Compound Miter Saw (Discontinued by Manufacturer)
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Hitachi Power Tools has renamed to Metabo HPT. Same great tools, with only a new name.15 Amp motor, intense power for the toughest cutting jobs0 to 52 degree miter angle range, to the right and left for increased flexibility0 to 45 degree bevel range, to the left with adjustable bevel stops for prec...
What bed are you using? If its aluminum, you may want to go 110v rather than 12/24v because its got much higher thermal mass and takes a good bit more energy to heat up. If you're going PEI on top, its also a thermal insulator, so you need a bit more oomph to get it heated up quickly.
I'm using this one: https://www.amazon.com/approx-KEENOVO-Universal-Flexible-Silicone/dp/B00V81ZI70
It heats up the bed very quickly, maintains temperature very evenly, and is extremely well made. You just need to get a DC/AC SSR to control it. The Duet will report a warning that its overpowered when you run the heater calibration on it, but its overpowered in a good way. I installed a second dedicated power switch and plug on the printer for the 110v circuit, so I can power the Duet with the bed shut off or unplugged (which is safer for screwing around with the printer).
Make sure you run a line from the ground pin on your 110v feed to the aluminum frame on the printer, so if you ever get a short, it'll run power to ground and trip a GFCI outlet/breaker rather than making you dead when you touch it.
It took maybe three weeks to get, even from Amazon, but I think it was worth the wait.
Edit: if you go that route, I uploaded to Thingiverse a protective cap for the particular solid state relay I used that better protects the 110v circuit from accidental contact: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2497356
Hey, that's my saw! Too funny. Just make sure it is straight and true. It worked great for my D-BOT. Just be ready for tiny aluminum shavings to go flying all over the place.
Use a machinest square to check the saw, something like this - https://www.amazon.com/BL-123-Precision-Steel-1-2-3-Blocks/dp/B00092CJC6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497885240&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=machinist+square.
yes, but you need the right size. Red is the smallest size you can get at the local hardware store, but it is too big for most 3D printer wiring. I got a bag of smaller ones on amazon and they worked great:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GDFFKQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
edit: You can do things to make the red ones work like folding the end of the wire over to double the thickness, but the ones i listed were just a lot easier to work with.
It's the same one I've bought except for mine being for 220V. You should be around 6 A at 110 V, so your SSR should handle that without a trouble. Keenovo recommended me to use a fuse for around 165 Celcius, so unless you want your bed to go hotter than that I'd stick to that. They also mentioned the maximum suggested temp for their heater being 233, but I really wouldn't go there.
At a quick glance, found this guy on amazon https://www.amazon.com/THERMODISC-G4A01167C-FUSE-THERMAL-pieces/dp/B011CQKYEW. But there are a lot of 10 amp 250V fuses in that form factor with different temperature ratings out there, so just pick up any at your favourite electronics vendor. It's a bit tricky to solder them and you should insulate it pretty well, but in my case I felt it was worth it just for the peace of mind.
Thanks for the safety advice, that's obviously something I want to be careful with. I'm looking at getting this keenovo 200x300mm heater and this SSR. What kind of fuses do you recommend for something like this?
You can still use a resistor and or something like this to put the voltage down to 12v for the fans:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01EFUHFDU/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8
And I see you have a d bot?I was looking forward to build one, is it good?
What about the Acetal/Delrin Filament. Would this make a part that would slide reasonably well?
https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-1-75mm-Filament-Printers/dp/B00LAJNE6C/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522328736&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=delrin+filament&amp;psc=1
Yes But only 1 motor Turns if I swap the pins on the control board then then that one moves and not the other.
Yes.
Control Board
Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/OSOYOO-Graphic-Display-Controller-connector/dp/B00J1X4MFQ/
My Chinese one capped out. Got this one a week ago. So far so good
WerFamily SSR Solid State Relay SSR-40DD DC-DC 3-32V DC / 5-250V DC / 40A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPT9GG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3p0vzbECND6MA
I know this is old post but when i frist build my D-Bot is couldn't get the gantry to move worth a damn. It all stemmed from the awful Chinese bearings in the wheels. The worst part was that it was nearly impossible to get the bearings out of the wheels without nicking the delrin.. I endded up getting all new wheels from open builds and some good quailty bearings. Everything moves like butter since. I truly believe its worth the extra $$
I used a miter saw for my dbot but in the past I've cut a lot of extrusion with my small circular saw with a similar setup and this blade has worked really well. Not real cheap though.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XREDX2/
Found a guy (well reviewed) in another city that basically does anything construction related. He said he can cut them for me but his minimum job price is $75. For the price, I am leaning towards just ordering this $99 10" Miter Saw and this $22 10" Non-Ferrous Saw Blade, taking it to the Maker Space and cutting it there.
Do those look like they will be good enough to get the job done? I am a bit concerned, I have one of my pieces measured out to being 1496mm of a 1500mm piece (increased all of the Z frame pieces by 100mm). Worried the blade cut may possibly be too thick for that to work.
Here's my setup: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2167304
I think you're on the right track (3 screws, 1 motor). My setup is 1.875:1 gearing (30T on screws to 16T on motor) and there's plenty of torque with these motors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QEYADRQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1