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1. That's fairly cheap you can find some china models on dhgate that could help you get there. If you want to deal with Auber there is http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=45&products_id=484 for 170$ they have a flat coil and nail.
   
   I can't speak for their nail; but the controller and coil is rock solid. Then you just need an atomizer (nail) to finish it off such as a D-Nail SiC Halo or an CCA Banger. You can get a 20mm coil and then get a quartz banger if you prefer that route.
   
   That controller (The RDK-300A) will handle D-Nail coils as well as Auber coils so there's no unique pinout to burn you later (like high5 does)
   
   
2. If you want to read the nail surface you need a k-type thermocouple that can handle the head. So you will need something that can give you results from the probes; so this is a pretty good device https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GFHYA8/ ... here are some probes I have used that work https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0083SZC6S/
   
   
3. Get a good controller; then get the nail you want. You are free to change your mind in the future that's the joy of a controller that you can get another coil for incase you want something different.
   
   Take it slow and it might take a few paydays or months to get everything sorted the way you want.
   
   140-170 outlay for the controller with a nail is small; then you can step up after a few paydays and you know better what you want next.
   

Each wall, bottom and top was separately printed then glued with an epoxy. This was made with 6 separate prints using PLA plastics. Total print time was about 6 1/2 hours.

I used parts that I had from my last enail project over a year ago. I know there are superior connectors (XLR), however I haven't had any issues with these in over a year.

I went ahead and shared the model files here if you wish to start printing your own. Included are the STL models for slicing and Sketchup models if you want to modify your own.

List of parts used with this particular 3d model.

• 40A SSR Solid State Relay
  
• SOCKET,STD DIN,FEMALE,5PIN,PANEL MOUNT (Outlet)
  
• Dual Digital Display PID Temperature Controller (PID Controller)
  
• AC 15A/250V 20A/125V 3 Pin 2 Position ON/OFF Switch (Rocker Switch)
  
• Interpower 8301213 IEC 60320 C14 Power Inlet with Quick Disconnects (120VAC Power Outlet)
  
• Rean NYS322 5 Pin DIN Plug
  
  
  I suppose I will model different versions for different pid face plates and outlets as time goes on. Hopefully others will modify and share their version.
  
  Feedback suggestions are always welcome.
  
  Special thanks to /u/j4yt3x for his DIY write up.

Thanks for all the advice.

The ceramic enhale combo looks great, I've shot over a message to them to check they have 230v coils, international shipping is available for a reasonable £6.39!

Part | Cost
---|---
PID | £18.99 | |
SSR | £3.88 | |
Enclosure 150 x 100 x 60mm | £6.90 | |
XLR Female | £10.79 | |
16 AWG Wire 2x3m Red and Black | £5.97 | |
Rocker Switch | £1.69 | |
Power Socket | £2.68 | |
Power Cable | £2.00 | |
ENHALE Coil w/ Ceramic Female Nail | £57.51 | |
Total | £110.42

That's my new part list so far saving £55.98, nice!

Will this PID also work fine? I'm really looking to build a nice sleak unit if I can.

> http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Q9EFUK/ref=pd_aw_sim_e_2?refRID=0AN8QNQ5T2SWPG1CW0E0

Wow this looks perfect, the light sensor is ideal, usually im dabbin with the lights on lol

all machines are made of components manufactured in asia. The issue is in the assembler, and their quality control testing. This one is assembled in china. The problem I see is that while an american company can quality control their goods by plugging it into the wall and letting it run for an amount of time, china tipcally has 220v 50 hz electricity (ours is 110 v 60 hz). So there is going to be a problem with testing the units designed for the american market. (not a big problem, the PID shodul be fine on either electricity, but you never know....)

In my experience with Chinese made components from bulk suppliers, there is a 10% failure rate within the first day of use (considered DOA). There are only really 3 things that can go wrong inside due to their complex nature, a PID, the coil assembly, and the relay device (much less likely, but I've had it happen in other fields). With a 10% chance of each failing, it's a 74% chance your unit will be fine (my math might be off, help here if you know satistics better than I do). If your unit is NOT fine, you can easily order replacement parts on amazon.com

Save the money, and use the cheap stuff, be prepared to repair it with spare parts by having these links ready to go

For the PID: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NGL4KG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1BREQ8I6OHSBG

For the SSR:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HZN628/ref=ox_sc_sfl_image_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3NSJ1JIMWS963.

for the coil.... thats still goign to be a problem, as they are all made in china, but, I think enhale.com might be a good course for coils.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Q9EFUK/ref=pd_aw_sim_e_2?refRID=0AN8QNQ5T2SWPG1CW0E0


(Choose the 3 outlet version + light sensor)

This one is great, I use it to turn on my E-Nail and NES, has variable timed shutoff, and an awesome wireless remote

Thanks for the rec, this z series 10A looks perfect and is covered by the lifetime warranty.

Pocket Clear Straw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JR4NPPD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AfD1Db2ABKX2Z

I've never had a problem with this temp gun. If you can afford a Liger, you can afford this.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0058UX04U/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1417659618&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SY200_QL40
I think I'm going with this model. Just going to find it cheaper

Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Q9EFUK/ref=pd_aw_sim_e_2?refRID=0AN8QNQ5T2SWPG1CW0E0

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058V11IG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/Elenco-K-36-Sound-Activated-Switch/dp/B00123COBW

could it be that i should have bought http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Display-Temperature-Controller-Alarms/dp/B005NGL4KG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376442730&sr=8-1&keywords=mypin+ta4

instead of
http://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Temperature-Controller-TA4-SNaRWith-alarm/dp/B00BVWYHVO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1406390962&sr=8-4&keywords=mypin+ta4

but in the end you get what you pay for non annealed china glass, her tube is small is enough to convert with an adapter imho. adapter plus banger from dhgate maybe 20-30$ torch 40 at bb&b. i would honestly buy a big shot on amazoninstead. im not a fan of the bb&b torches the pizo ignitor ALWAYS fails after about 9 months causing you to have to return and get a new one id rather have something last 4-6years. i have had my blazer gb2001 for 8 years now still lights everytime.

The issue with those temp guns is that they are garbage for any kind of reflective surface, even with adjusted emissivity.

If you want to know the REAL dish temperature, i suggest you get a contact thermocouple and sit it directly in the bottom of the dish, touching it. You'll get a MUCH more accurate read. My emissivity adjusted temp gun reads about 75 degrees out (higher or lower) than a contact k-type does. It's also a pain in the ass to know if it's really looking at the bottom of the dish, or just some heat radiating off the side. Those lasers aren't lined up well.

Somthing to this effect, usually they can plug into a nice multimeter or a standalone device:
https://www.amazon.com/K-Type-Thermocouple-PK-1000-Temperature-Insulation/dp/B0083SZC6S