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YW.

These aren't guaranteed to work but if running wires isn't your thing and you're ok with a little extra latency you can pretty much get an ethernet connection anywhere in the house though the electrical outlets with these.

https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-ethernet-Adapter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B06WP2ZT5N/

Ok, what you will need to do if you want to continue using the Arris router and integrate the WCB3000N is use a coax splitter so that you have coax connecting BOTH the MEB1100 and the Arris router to the wall.

The splitter you will need to use needs to be rated for MoCA 2.0 connections (this is how you get internet service through the coax for FiOS services) . Examples: https://www.verizon.com/home/accessories/2-way-coax-splitter/ and https://www.amazon.com/Holland-Electronics-GHS-2Pro-M-Splitter-5-1675Mhz/dp/B00P6VHLP0/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_23_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=QNA5VENZNET69K36XQSY

This setup would be similar to if you had TV service, even though you said don't.

You will still need to have the MEB1100 connected to the Arris router via ethernet. The reason why the MEB1100 still needs to have the ethernet connection to the router is because the MoCA adapter on Arris router does not handle WAN connections unlike the G1100 and the other ActionTec routers. The Arris router does handle all other MoCA connections just fine.

Once you have the splitter installed, you can take the WCB3000N to the upstairs to 2nd floor, plug in the coax, and it should receive a connection from the Arris router. Unfortunately, I don't remember if there was any additional setting up that needs to be done from the WCB3000N web interface or if it was plug and play.

I run a somewhat similar setup to extend the wifi at my house with the Arris router. Hopefully it works as you wanted!

You will almost never likely see your full speeds over WiFi. Speeds are only guaranteed up to what you are paying for, and usually only over a wired connection as well. WiFi is meant for convenience, and not reliability.

Are you using the 2.4 GHz band or the 5 GHz band? The 2.4 GHz band has larger range, but is more susceptible to interference and has lower transfer rate, whereas 5 GHz is not as vulnerable to interference, is shorter-range, and has larger transfer rates than the 2.4 GHz band.

Also, do you have a cable outlet in your living room that is connected to your ONT? If so, you could get a MoCA extender that will turn your coax connection from the gateway into an Ethernet and wireless acces point.

A WiFi signal booster is the last thing I would recommend, because those take up half of your bandwidth just to be able to re-transmit a stronger WiFi signal, unless you can deal with it receiving on the 2.4 GHz band and then transmitting only on the 5 GHz band.

I had Frontier (Verizon at the time) provision ethernet. So I have straight ethernet from the ONT.

Currently using an this router and so far its worked well for me.

I have been very pleased with : ASUS RT-N66U Dual-Band Wireless-N900 Gigabit Router https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006QB1RPY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZpW-zbYWRSGX9

This is what I use:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FWAZEIU/
It’s 600va and does the job fine. My ONT is two prong so this works great.

Unfortunately just 50/50. I think bundled with phone (not my choice..), atleast from what I'm seeing, there is no way to go above 50/50. So it seems these random spikes are either from the ONT or from the Actiontec. (We have a two-in-one Actiontec with a Nighthawk 7900.)

I guess another question: Would this be better than any of the Actiontecs? And this should work with Frontier Fios right since they are Verizon now effectively in my area? https://www.amazon.com/FIOS-Verizon-Gateway-Quantum-G1100/dp/B01ETSPPEO/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1542133352&sr=1-5&keywords=fios+modem+router

i've got one of Frontier's shitty actiontec modem/router combos and it is simply awful.

I have Coax coming into the house. then it runs into a Coax to ethernet bridge(hla3105), then both ethernet and Coax go to the actiontec router. I would like to use my own hardware and do away w/ one of those connections. is this possible? I"m looking at getting this which I will then run into a separate wireless router.