Top products from r/homesecurity

We found 52 product mentions on r/homesecurity. We ranked the 342 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/homesecurity:

u/ellingson17 · 1 pointr/homesecurity

I don't have any specific insight on that particular cam system, but if you can swing it budget wise I would recommend looking in to an IP camera system. It will cost a little more up front but it will give you more options for upgrading down the line.

With an IP system you can typically mix and match cameras and recorders and as long as you have a recorder with POE (power over Ethernet) you only have to run one wire to each camera as opposed to the power and video wire for the system linked( yes I'm aware that it is contained in one wire but they are still two separate things to plug in). Additionally any IP camera will work with the network wire that you run. And the cameras will usually work with most IP recorders. That is not always the case for these kit systems which sometimes require you use their recorder for the cameras to work at all.

With IP cameras you don't necessarily have to run every wire back to the recorder. You can run all camera wires to a central location where you install a network switch and only need to run one wire back to the recorder. This is good if you ever want to move the recorder in the future. You don't need to rerun all the lines, just the one from the switch to the recorder.

If you can afford to, I definitely think that an IP system would be better with your plans to upgrade as you go. It gives you a lot more flexibility and will help you in the process of upgrading. You can look into Amcrest Recorders that seem to be pretty decently priced and shop around for decently priced IP cameras with good reviews.

Personally I have 4 Honeywell H4W4PER3 cameras, a BV-Tech 9 Port POE switch (to provide power and network to cameras), and am running recorder software (Milestone xProtect Essential+) which is free for up to 8 cameras and has crazy amounts of integrations and extra features (it is designed for Enterprise camera systems)

If you have any questions feel free to PM me

u/CyberBill · 1 pointr/homesecurity

There are three kinds of PoE.

  1. "Passive" PoE. Essentially you put the DC adapter for the unit near your switch, and the cable acts like a long DC extension cord. Potentially dangerous, not recommended, but VERY cheap and if you only need to go a few feet it's probably ok.

  2. "Regulated" PoE. This is basically 'passive PoE', but instead uses a higher voltage (typically 24v) on the injector side, and then some kind of regular on the receiving side to ensure that there is not a voltage drop for long distance runs.

  3. "Active" PoE. This system, which is standardized as 802.3af (as well as others) uses communication between the injector and receiver, so that when you plug a non-PoE device in, no power is sent over the wire. This makes it much safer. This is the best option, but also the most expensive.

    If you only have one or two PoE devices, then individual injectors works fine. If you're going to do a big camera setup with 4+ cameras, then you're better off with a PoE switch or a 'midspan' (which is just a poe injector for multiple devices). I highly recommend you stick with 802.3af stuff (aka 'real' PoE).
u/oneandonlybobjones · 3 pointsr/homesecurity

I didn't go with LED lights because when I read owner reviews they were only so-so. I ended up going with Heath Zenith Model # HZ-5318-BZ lights from Home Depot and RAB Model STL360H lights from a local lighting dealer. Both Heath Zenith and RAB say these models are not designed to be used with LED bulbs because the LED bulbs will cause the motion sensors to malfunction, i.e. lights blinking off and on, etc. The Heath Zenith's don't have as much range to their motion sensor as the RAB's, but they still work very well. However, the RAB's have a 10 year warranty, while the Heath Zenith's only have a 2 year warranty. The RAB's also are much more expensive. If you buy RAB lights then don't buy them from Amazon because RAB won't honor the 10 year warranty because the sellers on Amazon are not authorized dealers. RAB also makes LED motion sensor lights, but their best motion sensor light STL360H is not designed to be used with LED bulbs. When I called customer service at both Heath Zenith and RAB to ask a few question before purchasing their lights, both companies were helpful. The other thing to consider is how high you want to mount the lights on your house. The RAB's recommended mounting at 10 ft. while the Heath Zenith's recommended mounting at 8 ft. The higher mounting height of the RAB's I believe is due to their more powerful motion sensors which gives them a greater range.

u/antarcticgecko · 4 pointsr/homesecurity

I’m no expert, but I have these items and they make me feel a little safer. They’re well reviewed and won’t break the bank. Not sure how management will feel about installing hardware if it’s a rental but they may allow it given that someone broke in.

door armor - amazon

window locks - amazon

Additionally, your local police department may run safety seminars about how to secure your home against this sort of thing. Mine does.

And of course Wyze cams which may be good for your peace of mind, $25 each. Be safe.

u/gkWhE · 1 pointr/homesecurity

Thanks for the information.

I thought Zigbee/Z-Wave wireless sensors were generally compatible with any transceiver (as long as they're the same protocol)? So if I had (for example) a Z-Wave USB dongle that provided a generic virtual serial port or some other interface, I could send and receive messages from a computer to Z-Wave sensors that were paired to the wireless network? (Note: I just randomly selected those two links from Google for examples -- I have no idea if they're compatible or anything, I'm totally new to these technologies and this is what I'm researching.)

I don't have a Raspberry Pi, but I read a few articles talking about modules that could communicate with Zigbee and ZWave, so that's why I mentioned it. I'd rather just use a USB dongle transceiver/antenna with my existing Linux server.

My NVR is just a basic Python application I wrote that's running on the Linux server that records my camera streams to disk with a web interface to view them live or from recordings. It'd be easy to additionally listen to wireless sensor messages, and then log them, tag the recordings and send an alert. That's what I want to do, but I don't know what kind of hardware to look at.

I could set up a motion detection zone on each camera and capture ONVIF events but I feel like a simple door is open or closed sensor would have less false positives. Plus, I want to learn about wireless sensor tech. :)

u/ONLYallcaps · 2 pointsr/homesecurity

I did the Vista 20P option with wired 6160 keypad. Programming was easy enough - especially if you use the work book that's part of the installation guide to plan out your system before you go pressing keys. Love the EVL4 and am considering paying for their monitoring service. The EyesOn app works with my Apple watch too - which was an unexpected bonus. I'm 6 weeks out from the installation and am very happy with it. I replaced a Vista 15 panel with wired sensors with the 20p that I got off of for $70 Canadian! I was able to keep all of my sensors - essentially plug and play!

u/Murfgon · 1 pointr/homesecurity

Direct Burial the only drawback is price its very very expensive if that is not a concern the only other issue is the grease that they put inside just have a few paper towels on hand. I am personally a fan of the pull through RJ45 crimps

but you need a special tool to cut it off clean.

I especially like these as you can double check that you have not messed up as you pull them through just do a double check on your colour's

in Canada we tend to use T568a but i believe a lot of places use T568b personal preference,

I have never found any conduit that gets buried to be able to stop water ingress but any electrical supply store should be able to set you up with whatever you need but direct burial should be used as well especially if your in a place like Canada with a large temperature range.

u/bill422 · 2 pointsr/homesecurity

Well I work for a dealer so we just buy direct from the distributor, so I don't have a ton of first hand experience buying online. is one that is often mentioned. You can even find some stuff on Amazon pretty cheap, such as this panel:

Overall though, since you will likely need to buy multiple items for the system, since professional security systems don't really come as much of a kit...I would recommend you shop around for each of the items you plan to prices for each item can vary quite a lot.

u/R0tt3nB4ndit · 2 pointsr/homesecurity
                    My own **PERSONAL** recommendations<br />

My Camera being used outside---

Recommended Systems---


Low budget OK all in one:

Midrange budget Decent all in one with some limitations:

Recommended Good Cost Minded Cameras---

Budget “Indoor” PTZ Dome Camera (with MIC+SOUND) 2MP ~$98.60 (black also available)

Top End “Indoor” PTZ Dome Camera (with MIC+SOUND) 4MP ~$199.99 (black also available)

“Indoor” PTZ Dome Camera [some limitations - Chinese] (with MIC+SOUND) 4MP ~$111.56

Budget Indoor/Outdoor PTZ Dome Camera (no audio?) 2MP ~$188.00

Top End Indoor/Outdoor PTZ Dome Camera (SOUND Only) 4MP ~$249.99

Budget &amp; Top End Indoor/Outdoor Fixed Dome Camera (SOUND Only) 4MP ~$73.99

Budget Indoor/Outdoor Fixed Bullet Camera (no audio?) 4MP ~$74.99 (wireless option available for $25 more)

Top End Indoor/Outdoor Fixed Bullet Camera (no audio?) 5MP ~$129.00

Indoor/Outdoor Fixed Bullet Cam Coming soon (with MIC+SOUND) 4MP ~?


PTZ = Camera moves/adjusts with a motor and remotely,
Fixed = Camera must be moved/adjusted manually,
MIC = Talk to bystanders,
SOUND = Hear bystanders,
Budget = Decent camera, great price,
Top End = Great camera, reasonably priced but more than budget

u/FN-guy · 12 pointsr/homesecurity

Assuming a solid core door. If a hollow core door, first replace with a good metal exterior solid core door and then see below.

  1. Remove the screws which hold your hinges into the frame. They are most likely 1 1/4" long. Replace them with 3" deck screws. Also replace the screws that hold the hinges to the door with 2 1/2" deck screws.

  2. install a deadbolt if you don't already have one. Best is if it's offset from the lock set by 12". If you have the tools and skills install another deadbolt. If the first is 12" above the lock put the second one 12" below. Use GOOD locks! There is a difference.

  3. Install a deadbolt and lock reinforcent plates according to the directions. Here's an example :;amp;keywords=deadbolt+reinforcement+plate&amp;amp;qid=1572125361&amp;amp;sprefix=deadbolt+re%2Caps%2C240&amp;amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzTDE2VFdKMFhQTjdSJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzM3MDY1QUhNTEs0OEs5TVdZJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA3Mzc0NjAxOUZCUDgyTkdaQzFTJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

  4. Same for the door lock:;amp;pd_rd_i=B000OFTIL8&amp;amp;pd_rd_r=d5b3c5aa-c731-4c87-9b90-b887a522107f&amp;amp;pd_rd_w=bsuv6&amp;amp;pd_rd_wg=gwiAR&amp;amp;pf_rd_p=a07701e4-f565-442a-b97f-93ab23cbb7ef&amp;amp;pf_rd_r=64PRKZYD4KQJF99M3NNS&amp;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;refRID=64PRKZYD4KQJF99M3NNS

  5. as the other poster alluded to the key is to make your house entry less attractive than others. Cameras and lights do wonders. Remove anything that can mask an intruders actions such as shrubs. Also remove items that can be thrown through windows.
u/xyzzzzy · 1 pointr/homesecurity

Probably something like this

IP Camera, Reolink 4-Megapixel 1440P POE Security IP Camera Outdoor Bullet, Built-in 16GB Micro SD Card, Night Vision 65-100ft ,Viewing Angle 80° 2560x1440, E-mail Alert, Motion Detection(RLC-410S)

Normally I wouldn't recommend local recording only because someone can just spot the camera and steal the SD card, but if it's in a balcony you might be ok

FYI night vision at that distance might be dicey. Look up IR floods if you have issues

u/0110010001100010 · 1 pointr/homesecurity

&gt; The chimes will not be loud enough for me to hear (assuming I installed them).

When you say not loud enough what do you mean? You can get a wireless transmitter then a receiver you could plug in pretty much anywhere in your home.

&gt;Maybe a wifi camera that I monitor?

You could defiantly go with a cheap wifi camera. Something like this maybe:

You would have to think about placement though to get good alerts and it would need power.

u/ImaginaryCheetah · 1 pointr/homesecurity

18+ years fire and security tech here.

  1. 1080p cameras are really, really low resolution. i would recommend 3 or 4 MP.
  2. i hear good things about Reolink, they are absurdly cheap for the specs. haven't used them myself though. ~$50-$75 for 4mp / 5mp
  3. i have used lots of Hikvision equipment, i find they are very good for the money. $75-$200 for 4mp
  4. speaking of impossibly good prices, and great reviews, BVlink makes POE switches everyone on amazon loves
  5. milestone's own husky x2 is running an i3 and 16gb of ram, and they claim it can handle 100+ cams.
  6. for exterior cameras, compact domes will look much nicer than bullet cams, but should only be installed under eves to avoid sun glare
  7. spend money on a 6TB drive for your storage if you have more than 4 cameras.
u/worried__guy · 1 pointr/homesecurity

If you're planning to throw away your old cameras anyway, you could try these instructions and see if they happen to work for you.

You can easily use your existing CAT5 to power any regular non-PoE camera by attaching a PoE injector at one end to power the cable, and a PoE spitter at the other end to recover the DC power and supply it to a regular non-PoE camera. A kit like this one should do the job.


You might also be able to find some cameras that will allow you to power via PoE while simultaneously allowing you to connect via WiFi. (More commonly it's either/or.) In that case you'll need just the PoE injector, and plug the cable directly into the camera on the camera side. I know several Amcrest models such as this one will stay connected on both PoE and wifi when the PoE connector is plugged in, so I assume that you could buy a PoE camera, use the CAT5 to power it, and use WiFi for network. (Disclaimer -- I haven't specifically tested using the PoE for power only rather than power+network ... I just think it's likely that it will work.)


(Edit: Oops ... The Amcrest camera I linked to is not a PoE camera, but it does stay connected simultaneously to wired and WiFi networks. So, I might be wrong in thinking you can find a PoE camera that will also support WiFi while using the PoE jack for power -- but you should definitely be able to buy a camera like the one I linked to and power it by using the inject+splitter route.)

u/TreacherousClutter · 1 pointr/homesecurity

That’s a good way of putting it, “reverse doorbell” makes me think though, why not just an actual doorbell?

I’ve seen plenty of battery operated ones, and plenty more with selectable tones - so long as you can find one with a suitable tone all you would need is batteries and a good place to mount it.

Edit: maybe something like this?

u/thejuice33 · 2 pointsr/homesecurity

I’m a big fan of these:;amp;qid=1555126929&amp;amp;s=gateway&amp;amp;sr=8-3

Only thing I don’t like is having to adjust certain modes by flipping the power switch several times in a sequence and having to scurry up a ladder to check the indicator lights to make sure it set it properly, but once you figure it out it’s easy. Other than that they’re high quality and very reliable with detecting larger moving objects and ignoring stuff like leaves, snow, rain or swaying branches,

u/gh5046 · 2 pointsr/homesecurity

Honestly, it would just be easier not to invite people into your home that you don't trust. To me the safety of my family and personal belongings are more important than dealing with people who have a history of violence, stealing, and sexual assault. I just don't invite them over. Hell, there are a few family members I've told that they are never welcome.

But, that's just me. To answer the actual question:

If you are good with computers you can put a solution together yourself.

For example you could pick up a bunch of Foscam wireless cameras (e.g.
) and Blue Iris and use a computer to do the video recording.

If you go down this route do your homework first:

  1. Make sure the cameras you buy are supported by Blue Iris
  2. Use a computer that has a fast enough processor, has plenty of free disk space, and can be on all of the time
  3. If you need indoor and outdoor surveillance make sure you verify the cameras support it. The examples I provided are indoor only.
u/TUFFSTRIKE · 1 pointr/homesecurity

Take a look at the Two Post Strike Plate to reinforce your doors. It is very easy to install, much more affordable and will protect your door from being kicked in.

u/radioactive_muffin · 1 pointr/homesecurity

Reinforcement lock or the ol' fashioned bar stop are prob best bets for an apartment. The screw holes will be hidden in the door frame so probably won't be noticed on inspection if/when you remove it. The bar is a classic...both only work if you remember to set them though.

u/Mark7A · 2 pointsr/homesecurity

You don't specify what or where you are trying to monitor (indoor, outdoor, in the rain, available power). But there are plenty of cameras that do what you do ask for.

If the camera follows the ONVIF standard, it can be captured by one of many IPCamera Apps that can pick up the stream. If you are in the Androidverse, I recommend this. I am sure there are similar Apple products. I have this app running on my Nvidia Shield, and if I'm watching the boobtoob, a couple button presses, and all 8 of my cameras are displayed on my TV.

Here are a few ONVIF cameras (just as an example).

u/PinBot1138 · 2 pointsr/homesecurity

This is the voltage detector pen that I was telling you about, /u/achstuff:


Klein Tools NCVT-2 Dual Range Tester, Non Contact Tester for Standard and Low Voltage with 3-m Drop Protection


These are the RJ-45 Ethernet jacks that I use:


This is the crimper that I use (the wires pass through the jacks and then this cuts them)


And this is the tester that I use:


I have some other tools which I can list, but this the base set that you'd want to use to get rolling. The nice part about these particular jacks is that their bin's outside label has the diagram for the T568B standard (which you'll want to use (assuming you're crimping both sides of the cable) unless you're trying to match T568A)

u/autohome123 · 1 pointr/homesecurity

I bought this nonbranded camera system and really enjoy it. Sorry I can't offer feedback on the system but maybe just the knowledge that someone else has an off brand that worked will be enough for you. It's been running for 1 year now.

As a side note i got the Ezviz because it offers IFTTT support so i can create a script to turn on motion alerts when my house is empty.


u/adonnan · 1 pointr/homesecurity

This will notify you if it senses sound and or audio. It can also start recording when that occurs. Their iOS app is called babycam I think, but lots of apps are out there that will work.

Amcrest ProHD 1080P WiFi Wireless IP Security Camera - 1080P (1920TVL), IP2M-841W (White)

u/Judman13 · 1 pointr/homesecurity

Something like this for the POE Injector should work.

Then something comparable to this would work for the battery backup. The higher the VA the longer the runtime.

u/ManEEEFaces · 1 pointr/homesecurity

Very cool. I'd still need a hub though, correct? Or maybe this would work? Sorry, I don't know anything about this world.

u/iammandalore · 1 pointr/homesecurity

Replacing the screws goes a decent way to making the door harder to break in. Most screws used be default are only enough to hang the weight of the door for the hinges, and enough to simply surface-mount hardware like the strike plate. Replacing screws in the hinges and strike plates with longer ones that can reach the door frame significantly increase the force needed to break the door in.

For while you're home, something like this can go even farther to securing the door, but it obviously can't be used while you're away.

u/Automateher · 3 pointsr/homesecurity

This is horrific, I'm so sorry you have to deal with this. My first thought is very basic, those little door sensors that make a ton of noise when the door is opened.

Something like this

They're not fancy, but would probably be a good solution to scare somebody off until you figure out something more permanent.

Edit: fucking hyperlink, Jesus.

u/DSJ13 · 1 pointr/homesecurity

Thoughts on these ?

Forgot I also need long network cables.

I have a gigabit switch now but the ports are mostly used for my network already so I think it makes more sense to get an additional POE switch vs the injector.

u/Bakefy · 2 pointsr/homesecurity

I can adjust the sensitivity, I can adjust the motion grid. Software motion detection is terrible outdoors. All it does is watch pixel changes. There are too many variables. Imagine a moth being attracted to the IR LEDS. It will eventually fly and cover the entire lens. The sensitivity adjustment has no worthwhile effect. Either you miss everything or get everything.

That is what I have installed, great quality. Just worthless outdoor motion detection. I even have it under a porch... the sunlight coming through the clouds will change the pixels quickly enough to trigger it no matter the grid or sensitivity.

u/aniel300 · 1 pointr/homesecurity


you read my mind, imao, you cant go wrong with those, i regret my self having spent 30 on cheap chinese cameras and not having gone with this, i mean, quiality (2k), field of view, auto focus, u name it.

u/KeavesSharpi · 3 pointsr/homesecurity

I can't speak on how silly what you want to do is, because your safety is the most important thing. What you want to do is easy though! You need 3 things:

1: Somehting to make noise, like this:

2: A button to trigger the siren. Any normal doorbell button will work.

3: A 12vdc power supply

Technically you need 5 things:

4: wire to connect it all

5: someone to do the work.

It's a simple thing, but a bit more than my drunk ass can explain in a comment. You're basically making a reverse doorbell. You push the doorbell, and the people outside hear the siren!