I'll share my set up with you and answer some questions.

I sought to do the same as you, so I built "EmuBox." It's an HTPC/Emulation combo. It can play games from the good old arcade days all the way up to Wii. It runs on Windows 8.1, using EmulationStation as a frontend and RetroArch as a backend. It also uses PCSX2, Dolphin, and PPSSPP as backends. I play using an Xbox 360 controller because it has native Windows support. For HTPC usage, I use Kodi.

First of all, for controllers, I highly recommend a wireless adapter for Xbox 360. You plug the adapter into one USB port and it can serve four controllers. Next, for hardware. If you want to play some newer systems like PS2 and Wii, you will need something more powerful. And yes, it's true, Intel is better than AMD for emulation because Intel processors have fewer, more powerful individual cores than AMD (AMD uses more, less powerful cores model). Dolphin and PCSX2 can be very CPU demanding. For that reason, I got a Intel i5-4460 for the job. Dolphin's forum recommends a minimum of an Intel i5-2xxx. If you go for an Intel i5-6600, you'll be golden. If you want to overclock, get the i5-6600K (and a motherboard that supports overclocking). For a motherboard, I chose a MicroATX motherboard, but if you want to go real SFF, go for an ITX motherboard. As mentioned before in this thread, PCPartPicker is your friend. 8 GBs of RAM is sufficient, you could probably get by on 4 GBs.

It took quite a bit of time to get everything working the way I wanted. I had a few goals in mind: no keyboard/mouse, no need for desktop. Basically, I wanted a "console." So, I set up EmulationStation so it automatically starts up when the PC starts up. Next, I used a program called JoytoKey and configured my Xbox controller so that the Xbox button (center button) is the equivalent of pressing Alt-F4 (only on certain programs, I made EmulationStation an exception so I didn't accidentally exited out of EmulationStation to the desktop). I set up RetroArch and ran the controller configuration (I had to borrow three Xbox controllers for set up, all had to be connected at the same time for four player configuration). Next, I set up Dolphin and PCSX2 and PPSSPP. Unfortunately, PCSX2 was the biggest cause of headache because PS2 emulation varies between each game... I only have a handful of PS2 games that work "out of the box" with that program. Dolphin, on the other hand, has been very stable. And finally, after all configuration was complete, I loaded up the ROMS, scrapped the games with the scrapper, and booted up the system.

Currently, the system works very well. I played Legend of Zelda Twilight Princess (GCN) all day yesterday with no problems. I can play the PC version of Skyrim (using the Xinput feature of the game), and I even have some visual novels like Fate/Stay Night supported. I plan on adding more PC games later, assuming they support Xinput. The beauty of systems like these is I never had to take out a keyboard or mouse. I had it plugged into the TV and only used the Xbox controller.

A few thoughts:

• The most demanding part of your system is going to be the Wii emulation. If you can build a machine that can handle that, the rest will fall into place. You should check out the Dolphin Forums for guidance. Even if you can't afford a machine that can do this now, if your goal is to get there, you can always upgrade to it later (e.g. start with onboard video then upgrade to a standalone GPU later).
  
  
• If you can, I recommend planning to do Audio over HDMI. Makes things much easier and you're guaranteed high quality digital sound without the need for a separate card (usually your mobo or video card can handle).
  
  
• If you want to replace your cable box, I can't recommend the infinitv4 tuner card enough. It's a low profile card so it should fit in almost any case you want. That said, it's a bit pricey for your budget so you may look at some of the other cheaper options. Also, you should know that video recording can take up a lot of space since it's uncompressed, so you'll want to either have a system for compressing it or a plan to store the files uncompessed on a NAS or a large external drive. Also, I think Comcast generally uses cable cards, but you'd want to do some hunting to make sure Comcast can provide you with the card you'll need to make the TV tuner work.
  
  
• Make sure the version of windows you buys has Windows Media Center. I think it's standard on Windows 7 Home Premium, but not sure about other versions of windows off the top of my head. Without this, the TV tuner becomes a lot harder to use.
  
  
• You may or may not save much but returning your cablebox. I found out after the fact that I only saved about $8 per month (cable card rental is $2 but cable box rental with cable card was $10) so it's going to take over 2 years for that investment to pay itself off.
  
  
• The XBox controllers are fantastic for playing emulators and steam games. Can't recommend enough. You buy a USB dongle and it works with any wireless 360 remote.
  
  
• Google PSU Calculator to get a sense of how much power you'll need. I use this one.
  
  To the extent it's helpful, here's the machine I built in January that I use for XBMC, Dolphin and Windows 7. Feel free to ask me any questions since it sounds like you're heading down the same path that I did and I'm happy to try to help guide you.
  
  PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
  
  Type|Item|Price
  :----|:----|:----
  CPU | Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | $189.99 @ Microcenter
  CPU Cooler | Cooler Master GeminII S524 77.7 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | $29.99 @ Newegg
  Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H-WB ATX LGA1155 Motherboard |-
  Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $68.46 @ NCIX US
  Storage | Corsair Force Series GT 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk | $129.99 @ Newegg
  Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1.5TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $79.99 @ NCIX US
  Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 670 2GB Video Card | $339.99 @ Newegg
  Case | Lian-Li PC-C33B HTPC Case |-
  Power Supply | Corsair Professional 650W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply | $94.99 @ Newegg
  Optical Drive | Sony BWU-500S Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer |-
  Operating System | Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) | $89.98 @ Outlet PC
  Keyboard | Logitech diNovo Edge Bluetooth Wireless Mini Keyboard | $329.69 @ Amazon
  Mouse | Microsoft 69R-00001 Bluetooth Wireless Laser Mouse | $50.13 @ TigerDirect
  Other| http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815706001| $0.00
  | | Total
  | Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | $1403.20
  | Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-07-23 11:59 EDT-0400 |

I'll give input per part if that's ok. Sorry if it's long, but I'm trying to be helpful.

CPU: I love this CPU. It may be overkill depending on the emulation you intend on doing. You could save quite a bit ($60 with A4) without performance suffering by using an A4 or A6.

MOBO: This is a pretty powerful board for an HTPC. It looks like overkill, but the MOBO is the most important part in a PC. You could choose a cheaper board if you want.

Storage: While amazing for gaming, I think that an SSD is wasted in an HTPC. The system is likely to be always on, so the boot times don't matter & media players don't have load times to speak of. You could get 3 HDD's for slightly more & set up RAID5 since your MOBO supports it.

Here's what I personally would do: Buy 3x 3TB external drives, remove them from the enclosures & setup up RAID5. This would protect you from losing your media to HDD failure somewhat.

Case: I love these cases. I want to build something with them some time.

PSU: Using one in a build now. Good stuff.

Other thoughts: You could run your OS (with emulators) from a USB thumb drive. XBMCbuntu is the one I've used.

Computer:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD A8-7600 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor | $69.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | MSI A68HI AC Mini ITX FM2+ Motherboard | $81.98 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2400 Memory | $39.88 @ OutletPC
Storage | Seagate Pipeline HD 2TB 3.5" 5900RPM Internal Hard Drive | $52.90 @ Amazon
Case | Cooler Master Elite 130 Mini ITX Tower Case | $34.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair CX 430W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $24.99 @ Newegg
Optical Drive | LG UH12NS30 Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer | $42.99 @ SuperBiiz
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $382.72
| Mail-in rebates | -$35.00
| Total | $347.72
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-09 13:59 EST-0500 |

CPU and GPU - It comes with what is close to an R7 240 GPU. Should be competent in new stuff at 720p, and maybe even 1080p with the settings turned down.

Mobo - has the form factor you want, but also built in WiFi

RAM - These APU's like high speed memory. Make sure to manually share 2gb to it and set the correct xmp profile.

HDD - What you asked for. Although splurging a little to also add an SSD for the OS will make it feel a lot faster.

Case - One of the smaller ones that will take a normal sized Optical drive.

PSU - Whatever it'll work.

Optical Drive - Blu-Ray reader.

For Peripherals:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
Keyboard | Logitech K400 Wireless Slim Keyboard w/Touchpad | $29.99 @ SuperBiiz
Game Pad| Xbox 360 Wireless Controller - Glossy Black| $34.95 @ Amazon
Game Pad Wireless Adapter| Microsoft Xbox 360 Wireless Receiver for Windows| $22.96 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $87.90
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-09 14:09 EST-0500 |

Keyboard - Love it. Range is great. Batteries last forever. Has a really cool left mouse button on the upper left hand corner.

Game Pad - Best cost/value product out there.

Game Pad Wireless Receiver - Needed for the controller.

Some suggestions for keyboard/mice:

Lenovo N5902. Goes on sale regularly.

Logitech K400

Generic keyboard/touchpad remote. There are many slight variants on this.

I've found that due to the size/shape/content of my living room, a wireless receiver plugged into my HTPC doesn't work 100% reliably. I've connected a USB extension cable to the back of my HTPC and run it behind things and under my couch to give me the best reception. Generally you can go up to 15 feet; any longer than that and you need a powered extension.

If you have a Logitech Harmony remote, I highly recommend the OVU4003/00 (RC6) USB IR reciever. Once set up with Windows and the Harmony remote, it works with XBMC/Kodi out of the box. This receiver was branded as HP/Dell/Gateway/Philips and probably many more. A Flirc is another option but it is ugly (IMO) and more expensive.

Regarding hardware, if you aren't gaming you don't need a lot. When using older gear the most important thing is video hardware acceleration. For Intel machines, you need something with at least GMA 4500 (Q45 chipset) graphics or later, and for AMD you need something with at least a 760G chipset. This hardware dates back to 2008/2009. Dedicated graphics cards should be at least a Radeon HD 2600 or a GeForce 8500. These cards date back to 2006/2007. CPUs are a grey area, but any mainstream dual core CPU (Athlon X2, Core 2 Duo) from 2007+ should be able to handle most everything. My first HTPC had an AMD Athlon X2 5000+ and it's still working just fine with W7 and Kodi.

If you want to game (and don't want to use a device like the DOKO), you'll need to find a quiet case that supports full length video cards. There are a bunch available, and I'm not sure if this has changed in the last 2-3 years, but the vast majority of HTPC cases large enough to support full size gear and M-ATX motherboards are simply too long to fit in a standard A/V rack or TV stand. The only exceptions I am aware of are the Silverstone GD05 and GD04. I'd be willing to bet that Silverstone has some other cases that will work also.

Additionally, you'll want to find a PSU, case fans and CPU cooler that are quiet and efficient. The best resource for this is http://www.silentpcreview.com/.

Lastly, if your A/V receiver has only S/PDIF audio inputs (no HDMI) and you want to play games in 5.1 surround sound, you're going to need to find either a sound card or motherboard with an S/PDIF output that supports DTS-Connect and/or Dolby Digital Live. Motherboards stopped coming with this around 2008 (AFAIK) and the cheapest option to get it in an add-on card is the Sound Blaster Z.

Excellent build. I have nearly identical requirements to you and my rig is very similar to yours.

The processor I used was the A8-3870k (it was cheaper for me than the 3850 in Canada) and I went with a micro ATX setup because the case of my choice was mATX.

You will have no problems with that processor. It's simply a monster. Plays and processes flawlessly. XBMC runs perfect. I've got my OS and programs on a 120GB SSD so everything is snappy!

1. For the SSD mounting, you can pick up adapters for less than $10 that let you mount them into standard 3.5" bays. However, someone above mentioned using velcro which is a simple alternative and should work fine.
   
   
2. Wifi cards are a dime a dozen nowadays so you'll probably have to get a standard card. Just get one that's wireless n compatible with a solid speed (you can get a wireless n 300 Mbps card for about $30). Your router may not even be that fast so you can adjust accordingly.
   
   
3. I know you said you didn't want a keyboard/mouse but this one is really good I swear: [Logitech K400] (http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Multi-Touch-920-003070/dp/B005DKZTMG). It looks nice and is very useful. You'll need a keyboard whenever you need to tweak things or use the web browser so this thing is great.
   
   I have the K400 and also a cheap [MCE remote] (http://www.amazon.com/Lenovo-Microsoft-Center-Control-Receiver/sim/B006TPPVKE/2) which is great for non-tech savvy people in my house.
   
   
   Overall I think you'll be very pleased with that build. Have fun!

I have the setup you're looking for. Of course it's still a work in progress with plenty of bugs but it's still very much usable. Infact, I use it everyday.

1. My gaming PC is 1 room away from my living room. I have a keyboard/mouse hooked up directly to the computer and I also have a Logitech unifying receiver connected so I can use a mouse and keyboard in my living room. I haven't tried any bluetooth devices so I can't give any input on that.
   
   
   
2. I use an HDMI Amplifier Splitter and ran a 20' HDMI cable from my computer room to my living room using HDMI Wall Plates in both rooms. I think if I ever do this again I might go with a Cat5e setup since I still have a bunch of cable lying around.
   
   
3. I use two Wireless 360 Controllers connected to a Wireless Gaming Receiver to control pretty much everything.
   
   
   I use Steam Big Picture and control it along with everything else I access with my 360 controllers. I have "Non-Steam" shortcuts setup for Chrome, Netflix, Crackle, Hulu, Plex, XBMC, Emulators and some other games. I use Joy2Key to bind mouse movements, mouse clicks, etc. I use a 3rd party on screen keyboard (I'm sorry I'm at work and I forget which one I use)that I use to input searches into netflix, chrome, etc.
   
   Like I said before. It works great it just needs some tweaks that I'll hopefully get around to soon enough. I'm currently working, trying to find a new job, fixing up my house to sell and looking for a new house to buy but I still love my little project and I work on tweaking things any chance I get.
   
   
   If you have any questions let me know. I'd be more than happy to help!

Looks good.

It needs a slot loaded drive. Unfortunately your options are limited and kind of pricey.

Windows 8 has an advantage in application support and compatibility. However it's possible that Linux can also cover all your needs. Plex, XBMC and Steam are all available for Linux. I'm fairly sure you won't have any issues with Plex or XBMC but I can't say the same with Steam. I've read that it's possible to stream to the Linux Steam client but I haven't heard much more than that.

I use the Logitech k400. It's pretty much widely recommend on this sub because it's fairly cheap and works really well.

I don't have much experience with Chromecast so I can't offer much advice. It's a fairly popular product though so there should be plenty of reviews around.

A HTPC is capable of much more than just serving media. Whereas a Chromecast has a much more limited feature set. It really depends on how much you value the extra features a HTPC offers. PC gaming on your couch through a big screen is pretty sweet though.

this is my current htpc setup


PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i3-3225 3.3GHz Dual-Core Processor |-
Motherboard | Asus P8Z77-I Deluxe Mini ITX LGA1155 Motherboard |-
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $76.97 @ OutletPC
Storage | Samsung 830 Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $126.45 @ SuperBiiz
Video Card | XFX Radeon HD 7750 1GB Video Card |-
Case | Lian-Li PC-TU200B Mini ITX Tower Case | $154.98 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair Builder 430W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $34.99 @ Micro Center
| | Total
| prices are missing ahhhh | ~ $650
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-12 18:09 EST-0500 |

along with one of these http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Built-In-Multi-Touch/dp/B005DKZTMG

my computer's over kill for a htpc but alright as a lightweight gaming rig. super meat boy and bioshock both play fine, and i cant imagine civ5 playing that horribly.

movies/tv are stored on a nas, which ive mapped as a network drive. xbmc is great for watching movies but vlc or literally any other video player will work fine.

I have plex set up on my nas but it's for my friends, not me; the last time i was on plex was when I had to reboot my server to restart plex...
plex does not stream games, but steam does if you have a second computer running because im on a full windows 7 desktop.

as for your last point, I love my k400. im using it right now, surfing reddit from my couch. I havent launched steam in a while but it would be fantastic if they could play local video from big picture mode. its possible there might be some add-ons that do this but ive done no research on it so idk, so you could set it up so that when you turn your htpc on it automatically launched steam in big picture mode

I have a Logitech K400 for the family room and a K830 for my bedroom.

Everyone in my house loves the K400 and it handles being treated like a remote (tossed on the couch, falling on the rug etc) very well.

Only thing is this: I personally turn off tap to click, tap to drag and a bunch of other stuff to keep me from accidentally clicking and dragging and zooming whenever I touch the touchpad. But the K400's software (SetPoint) doesn't retain its settings very well and I find myself doing all that crap anyway and having to re-apply my settings quite often.

So if you're considering the K400, I suggest focusing on the K400 Plus which is basically the same thing but uses newer software that actually retains whatever settings you want.

The K830 is very nice but it's pricey and was a bit of a splurge. The backlight is great, the software (Logitech Options) retains its settings and it has a premium feel to it. Honestly though, its a very close experience to the K400/K400 plus so I wouldn't spring for anything besides a 50 dollar refurbished one.

Just for reference, I've also used a Lenovo N5902. Although backlit, the sensor thingy was pretty awkward to use so I upgraded to this Iogear Multimedia Keyboard. It was comfortable to use but the trackball didn't survive long being used my my gf's kids. The keycaps would pop off as well. I've also used just a wireless keyboard and mouse which was a pain.

Here's my build:

Lian Li Q25B | Asus P8H77-I | Intel Celeron G540 | 4GB RAM | 20TB | UNRAID Plus


I recently swapped out the ram for a 16GB kit because some of the apps use a lot of memory. The drives I am using in this build are Seagate Expansion 3TB Desktop External Hard Drive USB 3.0 (STBV3000100

They are cheaper than bare drives and they are easy to pop open to get the drive out. This method isn't for everyone because you have to be careful with it. But, I haven't had any problems.

I am running Plex with this and I stream to 3 Roku 3s around the house and I also feed 2 xbmc boxes with this bad boy as well.

I an using Unraid You can get the basic OS from Unraid for free so that you can test it out. [They have a pro and a plus version as well that gives you more options.] (http://lime-technology.com/registration-keys/)

I like it a lot. I wish I could use utorrent or rtorrent with it...but those are in progress. I've been running with this setup for 5 months and have never had anything bad happen.

There are plugins for APC brand UPS devices as well as plugins that will email you periodically to let you know whats going on with the NAS. There are monthly parity checks to make sure that the parity drive is synched up with the array. There are also S.M.A.R.T checks that are run before you receive a status email (I mentioned above).




Here is what my array looks like from a browser

*The silver bubbles on the array page just means the disk is spun down. There is another disk that you don't see and that's the cache/apps drives which shows up under its own tab. Sickbeard is also not listen on the apps page with everything else because I am running TPB edition of sickbeard and had to install it manually.

> Also, I believe that the wireless dongle allows multiple controllers to connect to it (I haven't verified this, though), so you can buy "regular" Xbox 360 wireless controllers for players 2-4.

I do this with my HTPC. I can play steam games using two regular wireless 360 controllers hooked up to this device: Wireless 360 adapter for PC
It works great and that little wirelss adapter has a fantastic range.

I've also been pleasantly suprised to see how good the controller support is in Steam games. Even games that I didn't think I could use a controller for (like Orcs Must Die) have very good controller implementation.

Make sure you use the Harmony software, if you can. It makes integration of multiple devices that much easier. Also, be sure to check you have the latest version the Flirc software.

You probably aren't going to be too satisfied with remote interaction on webpages; it's do-able, just not a great user experience.

Binding direction keys on the remote and single / double click actions will do almost everything on a PC. You can also just create shortcuts to shut down the system, though turning on the PC could not be done via Flirc since the Flirc would be plugged into a powered-down PC.

If you're looking for a more interactive HTPC environment, a wireless keyboard touchpad combo might better fit the bill:

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Multi-Touch-Touchpad/dp/B005DKZTMG

Another alternative is something like Unified Remote:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.Relmtech.Remote&hl=en

You install resident software on the PC, and then you can control / emulate any function on your phone or tablet.

This Lenovo Multimedia Remote is my favorite for a nondescript keyboard/mouse combo that's perfectly at home on a coffee table. It's extremely comfortable in your hand and is a nice, compact all-in-one controller for an HTPC. If you keep your eye out you occasionally see it go on sale for around $30. It's back-lit and works quite well, though the range leaves some to be desired. Get a USB extension and locate the receiver somewhere in the open for best results.

Also, the Logitech Dinovo Mini is quite popular but I don't have personal experience with it. I'd like to pick one up if it ever drops below $40 or so but I've been content enough with my Lenovo remote to not have a need to pay more to replace it.

With any HTPC, however, I strongly recommend having a cheap wireless KB+M combo hidden behind your couch or in a drawer for times when you need to spend time on the PC side. Doing extensive install/configuration or troubleshooting with just a basic HTPC remote will drive you nuts otherwise.

Unfortunately I seem to have lost some of my WIP notes for it :/ If you can hang on a few days I can recreate my notes. (EDIT): Notes: https://hastebin.com/raw/itumoriwiw

​

I can tell you that there are a bunch of buttons that 'almost work' out of the box if you're using Kodi, but not quite. The setup is usable, but not everything is mapped wonderfully. The Volume buttons map to the standard system volume control (not Kodi's). The Show Desktop button works. The air mouse features work. But A lot of the top buttons are windows specific, for example 'explorer' sends a Win+E.

​

I also use a NUC :)

​

--- EDIT

Quick notes on key remapping: you can use built in kernel features to remap single button presses, like here where I disabled the remote's power buttons:

tvbox-auto# cat /etc/udev/hwdb.d/90-pepperjobs-w10-gyro-remote.hwdb

Pepper Jobs Remote - "W10 GYRO W10 GYRO" - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078NT49MJ ; https://fccid.io/2AOG7-W10GYRO

evdev:input:b0003v0A45p0004*<br />
 KEYBOARD_KEY_10081=reserved # Power Button: General Desktop - System Power Down<br />
 KEYBOARD_KEY_10082=reserved # Power Button: General Desktop - System Sleep<br />

Unfortunately as this remote sends stuff like Win+E, that's two separate buttons and needs a smarter approach (the program I haven't written yet that I alluded to).

​

Also valuable is a config for the OSMC remote:

tvbox-auto# cat /etc/udev/hwdb.d/50-osmc-remote.hwdb

OSMC Remote - "OSMC Remote Controller USB Keyboard Mouse"

evdev:input:b0003v2017p1688*<br />
  KEYBOARD_KEY_7004a=homepage<br />
#  KEYBOARD_KEY_7000c=props      # X11: SunProps<br />
  KEYBOARD_KEY_7000c=question      # X11: SunProps<br />
#  KEYBOARD_KEY_70006=menu      # No default bindings, don't use<br />
  KEYBOARD_KEY_70006=compose    # Same as Menu on keyboard in X11<br />
  KEYBOARD_KEY_7002d=volumedown<br />
  KEYBOARD_KEY_7002e=volumeup<br />
  KEYBOARD_KEY_c0226=stopcd<br />
# Scancodes:<br />
# 7004a=Home<br />
# 7000c=Info<br />
# 7004f=Right<br />
# 70050=Left<br />
# 70051=Down<br />
# 70052=Up<br />
# 70028=Ok/Enter<br />
# 70006=Hamburger menu<br />
# 7002d=Volume Down<br />
# 7002e=Volume Up<br />
#<br />
# c0224=back<br />
# c00cd=playpause<br />
# c0226=stop<br />
#<br />
#Home emits KEY_HOMEPAGE - 'AC Home'

>Could I use a micro sd card with one of these:
link1
>plugged into the NUC, and install Ubuntu on the micro sd card?

Yes, Ubuntu is very flexible with the location of your install as long as it remains plugged in while the device is on.

>Also, could I buy an SSD (but not an SSD meant for the NUC), one of these: link2

Yes, but you could also put that SSD in some models of NUC like this model.

>and plug it into the NUC with one of these cables:
link3

>And then install Ubuntu on that?

yes, but you could have better success with an external enclosure that stores the whole drive rather than that model that is meant for hotswapping. Like this.

I have been using the Lenovo N5902 for 7 years now.

I love it because it

• fits in one hand
  
• has an integrrated tracking wheel / mouse wheel
  
• is pretty durable
  
• is backlit
  
  I had to replace it recently because my kids dropped in on the tile floor one too many times. It works like a champ though and always recommend it

You mention wanting to use Netflix - Although support for Linux is coming shortly, you're pretty much locked to Windows at this stage.

For media center software, I'd go for XBMC - It runs on everything, has a massive community, and plugins for pretty much everything you're after.

For Keyboards and remotes, you have 2 options - I'd get a cheap USB remote and a Logitech Harmony to pull it all together. I'm a big fan of the Harmony 650, which I personally use: http://hometheatrelife.com/logitech-harmony-650-review/

The other option is a media center keyboard like the Logitech K400r, another which I have: http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Built-In-Multi-Touch/dp/B005DKZTMG/

With the TV tuner, read the reviews online and check which standard your country uses. i.e. UK uses DVB-T, US uses another standard I believe

My opinion is not to worry about the live TV antenna and crap and a TV tuner card and how to record it to hard drives and all that bullshit , most stuff hits the internet fast enough now a days I dont think its worth the hassle. BUT my setup and I recommend it is to pay for a usenet account and use SickBeard.com to organize and auto download your shows and then have that using xbmc or i prefer PLEX to organize your content and access it that way.

edit the http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Built-In-Multi-Touch/dp/B005DKZTMG/ the other guy mentioned is GREAT ! the range is amazing its cheap and you do not have to configure a remote and then explain to everyone in your house how the remote works

OK, so for remote I use this with a flirc. That way I have a truly universal remote with physical buttons (better for operating in the dark) for not a lot of cash. I do have a Logitech K400 for the rare times when I need a full keyboard.

For a case, I have the Silverstone ML03B. Small form factor and really blends with the other components. Depending on your CPU, you may not even need an aftermarket cooler. I have the i3 4130T with a stock cooler and it's dead silent. I built 2 years ago, and at the time, the only gaming I was doing was emulating old-school NES through some Gamecube. EDIT: So I only used the intel integrated graphics (HD 4400). /EDIT If you do want/need a GPU, you'd need a half-height to fit the case. Just last week I picked up a GTX 750 ti. It improved Dolphin emulation dramatically, and runs Skyrim at 1080p on Ultra settings at 60 fps.

Hopefully that answered some of your questions. If you have any more, feel free to ask.

That seems a bit overkill for an HTPC, but it would be able to handle anything you want to throw at it, including games on high or ultra settings. It seems like a pretty good price, but you may be able to haggle a bit if you don't need the printer.

Also, to connect a wireless Xbox 360 controller to a PC, you'll need one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Xbox-360-Wireless-Gaming-Receiver-Windows/dp/B000HZFCT2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374525438&sr=8-1&keywords=xbox+wireless+receiver

> Yes I do use a mouse

That's a problem for most people. Or at least for me, and I'm projecting my desires as those of the normal streaming service watcher.

I want to sit on my couch with a small remote control and be able to control everything. I don't want to have to figure out using a mouse on a couch. I don't want a trackball (something like this is a compromise that might work, but I once had a similar device, the Logitech diNovo Mini and it really wasn't very good). I don't want to wave my arm around with an airmouse (I hated the Wii interface 14 years ago, and I definitely don't want that for my main interface in 2019). I need a remote that can handle simple functions:

• Media playback (play/pause/stop/ffwd/skip fwd/rev/skip back)
  
• Menu navigation and show selection
  
• Moving between apps
  
  Most W10 apps fall down on the second item. Netflix certainly does. Browser-based playback usually fails all three.
  
  HTPCs are great. I love my HTPC. I use it every single day, for TV/DVR, for gaming, and for local media files/Plex (PlexKodiConnect is amazing). I can even use it for Netflix, sort of, with Kodi integration (there are some problems with tracking played status on Netflix, it doesn't support 4k very well yet, there are sometimes weird errors that take the addon down for several days, etc). But for most streaming services (Netflix, Amazon, Hulu, D+, HBO Go), I switch over to my Xbone. Because apps there are intended for 10' consumption, and thus satisfy all my control requirements above.

NUC's cost around $100-$200 more than a small mini-itx system, and also usually offer less performance since they use the "U" series of cpu's. (higher up front price, require MSATA SSD, SODIMM ram, etc)

You do get a smaller form factor.

-----------------

i3 NUC build - strength: size/VESA mounting

• i3 NUC (i3-4010U based / intel 4400 graphics) - $278
  
• 4gb 1.35v SODIMM DDR3 low profile ram - $35-40
  
• 128gb MSATA SSD - $80-90
  
  NUC Total: ~$400 USD
  
  -----------------
  
  Custom pentium mini-ITX build - strength: speed
  
  
• intel G3220/G3258 chip - $60-$70
  
• Asrock mini ATX board - $80
  
• Sandisk ultra plus 128gb - $54
  
• 4gb DDR3 1600 cas 9 ram - $35
  
• Coolermaster Elite 130 mini-itx case - $35
  
• Corsair 430w psu - $20
  
  Pentium Mini-ITX Total: $290
  
  -----------------
  Custom Q1900 based mini-itx build - strength: cost
  
  
• Asrock Q1900 or 1037u combo cpu/motherboard - $70
  
• Sandisk ultra plus 128gb - $54
  
• 4gb DDR3 1600 cas 9 ram - $35
  
• Coolermaster Elite 130 mini-itx case - $35
  
• Corsair 430w psu - $20
  
  Q1900 mini-itx total: $214
  
  -----------------
  
  Comparison of cpu's:
  
  
• 1037u (another $70 cpu/mobo combo option not shown) - 958/1771 - 17w TDP
  
• Q1900/J1900 passmark (single/multi): 533/1928 - 10w TDP
  
• i3-4010u passmark (single/multi): 958/2467 ($400) - 15w TDP
  
• G3258 passmark (single/multi): 2183 (+128%) /4022 (+63%) ($290) - 53w TDP
  
  Basically, you get:
  
  
• $400 - smallest form factor - NUC
  
• $210 - cheapest option - 1037u or J1900 custom build
  
• $290 - fastest option - but uses more power, also ability to overclock later if necessary. Might be ideal if you plan to do a lot of transcoding.
  
  EDIT: Just realized that I forgot about the bay trail NUC's out there for cheaper and will update.
  

Logitech Dinovo Mini

I've used this in conjunction with my Harmony One for about 5 years, and it works very well most of the time, sometimes the trackpad gets a little wonky, but i attribute that to greasy fingers.

It's very small but works very well for putzing around on the net from your couch. Plus it closes up so when it gets dropped between the cushions it wont have any erroneous buttons presses.

It also has the WAF. I dont have to install something on my wife's phone, or make sure either one of our batteries on our phone are not dead.

I have the rii keyboard and I love it. It's more of a keyboard and touchpadcombo than a remote but it got a laser, the key are back lit and is rechargable. The keyboard works flawlessly but the trackpad is a bit too small to be efficient. I would have put the mouse button somewhere else but you can't really complaint for the price. You can get it on amazon for cheap:

http://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Keyboard-Built-TouchPad-Pointer/dp/B003UE52ME

I know there is a blutooth version but can't find it right now.

No problem! Hopefully someone else can answer the app question. To be honest, I use a PS3 for Netflix & Amazon Video and my HTPC is used for local streaming and Windows Media Center (for live cable TV).

If she is savvy enough, she can just open a browser window and go to Amazon Video through a desktop shortcut. It's not an app, but it's an easy workaround.

Also, I would recommend having a non-intimidating keyboard/mouse combination. The Logitech K400 is a two-in-one that's cheap ($25) and won't intimidate her.

http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Multi-Touch-Touchpad/dp/B005DKZTMG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416160400&sr=8-1&keywords=keyboard+logitech+k400&pebp=1416160406907

the idea with kodi (XBMC has been renamed) is that the user interface allows for opening those files via remote (another example), in a way that is easy to do from the couch. Hence a high wife acceptance factor. And since Kodi can be installed on a cheap android stick, apps can sit alongside your PC's saved content. example

Some other UI's

That is enough for playing videos. It might even play games depending on settings. It supports Dual Channel memory though, so it's better to get 2 sticks of ram. If that's 2x2GB that's fine.

The processor is rated at 100W. That seems like a lot to me.

I have http://www.amazon.com/Intel-DN2820FYKH-Celeron-N2820-support/dp/B00HVKLSVC . It's less than 20W total, is quiet, runs OpenElec from a flash drive, plays blu-rays over the network. I've never tried to play games.

Been using the Logitech Mini for about 5 years now. Full keyboard and mousepad the size of my hand. I love it.

As long as the gpu supports h.264 decoding you will be good to go. Thus you might want to go stronger CPU. I have the Intel NUC DN2820 which uses the bay trail celeron and have very little issues with steam in home streaming.

Thank you very much for your comment!
It took me on a trip to understand how air mouses work and if I should consider one instead of a trackball.


After searching for a decent enough I found this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078NT49MJ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?tag=robejorg-20&ie=UTF8&linkCode=sl1&linkId=726c3a5dd1eec5972aa5cff5ee93e523


Which can also control the TV with IR. which is awesome for me.

I tried a few of those mini keyboards but I found typing really cumbersome and the trackpads were all garbage. I ended up buying the Logitech k400 and I absolutely love it. It says it's not Mac compatible, but it totally is, you just have to change the modifier keys in the Keyboard system prefs.

What i have:
Logitech Smart Keyboard

Previously Had: IOGEAR Multimedia Keyboard with Laser Trackball and Scroll Wheel, 2.4GHz Wireless GKM561R (Black)

Plus some candybar sized ones.. and im pretty certian the K400 or an earlier version of it.. its not coming up in my amazon orders.

I have the Pepper jobs W10 remote and it's great for my htpc. It's small and It's back light. One side has your standard remote settings and built in Windows 10 buttons with an activatable airmouse. The other side is a backlight qwerty keyboard. Here's a link if you're interested: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078NT49MJ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?tag=robejorg-20&ie=UTF8&linkCode=sl1&linkId=726c3a5dd1eec5972aa5cff5ee93e523

An HDMI switch will only let you select 1 HDMI from (however many switch supports). The receiver would also be your sound system amplifier.

So something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1376704148&sr=8-2&keywords=hdmi+switch

(Not one I own, just the first 5 port one I saw.)

For least headache, make sure it supports HDCP.

I like this one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078NT49MJ/?coliid=I2M0PPC84SHIS5&colid=2RAZDQ7ZYUAG6

It controls a PC very well as an air mouse (like a wii mote) and keyboard. Plus it has lots of handy shortcut keys to help navigate and manage the PC.

It can also learn IR codes from your TV and other IR devices to control them too.

It also connects over RF so no need for IR line of sight to the computer.

have you looked into air mice like https://www.amazon.com/Aerb-Wireless-Keyboard-Multifunctional-3-Gsensor/dp/B00K768DHY it has a few keys that can be IR and the rest act like a keyboard and the mouse portion can control the cursor like a wii mote or deactivated. I use mine for kodi on my raspberry pi and I have it programmed to turn the tv on/off and volume +/- and change inputs.

Wake on LAN and unified remote for android solves a few of these. I'm not aware of any ways to power on a PC with your controller. I also use this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005DKZTMG?pc_redir=1405593389&robot_redir=1 and it works really well.

Wouldn't using a usb 3.0 external drive be just as effective as your Firewire 800 drives? I was looking at drives such as this, which is considerably cheaper than the Lacie drives (about half the price). I looked online at firewire vs usb3 speeds, and it seems like they're about the same.

here's the one I have saved to pair with the J1900: Newegg Link

(though it's much cheaper on amazon right now)

edit: Just remembered the Antec ISK 110. I really like the idea of mounting it to the back of my tv.

If your going to get a Z87 motherboard then I wouldn't get a 35 watt locked CPU. Save some money and get an H87 board. The motherboard you linked had built in wifi, but I would highly recommend a wired connection, or at least powerline ethernet, if you're going to be streaming games from your main desktop with SteamOS.

The ram, HDD, and case all look good. The 120 watt PSU should be fine. I have this case, which comes with a 90 watt PSU, and it powers my 55 watt celeron and 2.5" HDD no problem.

This one right here works awesome. I got it on amazon for 30 bucks Here

I have this for my wife to use. Very easy to use with simple button choices that she can understan. Not too my functionality but still nice for everyday use.

Thank you so much for the help! I really appreciate it. I found a NUC for $150, so I'll probably go with that.

The Lifehacker article you linked me, "The Complicated Method: Watch Your Movie Now with XBMC" only works on windows correct? So I couldn't throw on linux and do the same thing with MakeMKV and the plugin for XBMC?

EDIT:

Here is the NUC I was looking at

http://www.amazon.com/Intel-Next-Computing-Black-BOXDCCP847DYE/dp/B00B7I8HZ4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407978168&sr=8-1&keywords=B00B7I8HZ4

EDIT 2:

Nvm, I'm an idiot and didn't read the article fully

Its a handshake issue. Your easiest solution will be to add a piece of hardware between the htpc and tv that doesn't have the problem.

1. A/V receiver
   
2. Gefen HDMI Detective Plus (or equivalent) to manage the handshake / EDID ($75 on Amazon)

I've used this case before...don't recall the powersupply I used though. Pretty cool looking, lots of space, screwless drive install.
http://www.amazon.com/BitFenix-Mini-ITX-Without-Midnight-BFC-PRO-300-KKXSK-RP/dp/B008RJQ0LE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396537905&sr=8-1&keywords=mini+itx+phoenix

> I did really have my heart set on something small though. Hmmm.


http://www.amazon.com/Intel-DN2820FYKH-Celeron-N2820-support/dp/B00HVKLSVC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422301382&sr=8-1&keywords=celeron+nuc

This:

https://www.amazon.com/Lenovo-Enhanced-Multimedia-Backlit-Keyboard/dp/B005L2NTTQ

to control the HTPC, I use it to control Netflix, Plex, Spotify etc.

Then a Logitech harmony remote to control the TV, AV Receiver and Speakers. I have the Harmony 700.

Two remotes means my wife and kids can use without stuffing anything up too much

When I first setup my main HTPC I used a Logitech K400, and after using all of the following:

1. Lenovo N5902
   
2. MCE Remote
   
3. FAVI Keyboard Remote
   
4. Logitech Dinovo Mini
   
5. Logitech Harmony One
   
   My wife still says she preferred the original K400 keyboard.

I have 1 of these and it works great and is about $100. r/https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537350786&sr=8-3&keywords=HF2-SU3S2 There are newer versions with faster usb 3.1 gen 2 type c with 10gbps interface for a little more.

Like others, I like the Logitech k400 when I need a full-size keyboard. However, I keep a Favi mini keyboard next to the remote at all times.
http://www.amazon.com/FAVI-Entertainment-FE01-BL-Keyboard-Black/dp/B003UE52ME/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397162857&sr=8-1&keywords=Favi+mini+keyboard

I recently bought this for my htpc. It actually came with some puzzling device that almost looked like one of the old ps/2 to usb adapters. Only one end was male and one end was female usb. Read into the directions...it appears to be some sorta range extender. If you can get ahold of one of these it might help.

You can get something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Hausbell-H7-Wireless-Entertainment-Keyboard/dp/B00B9996LA/ref=lp_1194464_1_12?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1406826186&sr=1-12

Or if you don't like the touch pad you can get a motion sensing remote like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Onedayshop%C2%AE-Multifunction-Wireless-Keyboard-3-Gsensor/dp/B00KXLS1GQ/ref=sr_1_11?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1406826313&sr=1-11&keywords=htpc

https://www.amazon.com/Aerb-Wireless-Keyboard-Multifunctional-3-Gsensor/dp/B00K768DHY

I use this and it's perfect for me. I remapped the home button to launch Kodi. From there I can launch Netflix or steam or anything.

If you can swing the upfront cost, something like a low end NUC will probably save you money over a few years

I have a nuc and like it a lot. It might be overkill for what you want it for though.

As far as the remote vs. keyboard things is concerned I don't think it supports a remote, at least out of the box. However, the logitech k400 is a small wireless keyboard/mouse that works well.

Thanks for the follow-up. I ended up going with this cat5/6 extender: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L14ZTC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 so hopefully it will work out. My turn to post a follow up when I get some results!

I'd love to use the Logitech K400 but I want something my parents are a bit more familiar with. They're used to remote controllers. I really like the look of this https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B078NT49MJ/?coliid=I1KR7H7S9BO1IR&colid=3HM9AHB2G6NXV&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

But my main problem is what software to use it with.

That build would certainly do what you want.
Possible substitutions you might consider:

Case + power supply. It's cheaper than the combo you have listed, and with the power draw of your system, fanless is an option.

Speaking of fanless, you could try this motherboard or this one to have a totally fanless system.

I actually just use Windows 7 desktop with increased font size for the main interface (I have yet to find a perfect UI to run netflix, pandora, youtube, and blu-ray intuitively enough for guests to understand it).

As for controllers, I have VNC set up on all my other computers to remote into the machine, Unified Remote app for Android, I have a wireless keyboard/mouse combo as an option for those that want fullsize controls, but most of the time use this as the remote control: Favi Mini-wireless keyboard/touchpad

Edit: I don't actually have cable, so I don't need anything to use as a tv controller. This setup has made my Chromecast collect dust.

I think all the current generation have the ability to use a 2.5 inch drive. Here is one for only $140.00 on Amazon

This one might interest you.
Aerb 2.4G Mini Wireless Keyboard Mouse Multifunctional W Infrared Remote Learning, 3-Gyro and 3-Gsensor, Air Control
https://www.amazon.com/Aerb-Wireless-Keyboard-Multifunctional-3-Gsensor/dp/B00K768DHY/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1486071199&sr=1-2&keywords=Aerb+2.4G+Mini+Wireless+Keyboard

The models that end in "H" all support 2.5" drives:

i5 - http://www.amazon.com/Intel-BOXD54250WYKH1-Core-i5-4250U-Graphics/dp/B00HZDLNWO/

i3 - http://www.amazon.com/Intel-DisplayPort-i3-4010U-Consumer-BOXD34010WYKH1/dp/B00HOJAVDG/

Celeron - http://www.amazon.com/Intel-DN2820FYKH-Celeron-N2820-support/dp/B00HVKLSVC/

I would personally move from a 128GB SSD to 256GB. I checked my current HTPC's C drive and it looks like I am currently using about 120GB of space on it and it doesn't have anything special installed (my movies, etc. are stored on a secondary drive).

You'd hate to run out of space on that drive down the road and have to upgrade it (like for Windows 10).

edit: also, this wireless keyboard is better (my opinion): http://www.amazon.com/Multimedia-Keyboard-Trackball-Wireless-GKM561R/dp/B002H0BOBA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426362769&sr=8-1&keywords=iogear+keyboard

I have used this model for years and it has worked very well from my recliner.

We use something like this

https://www.amazon.com/Aerb-Wireless-Keyboard-Multifunctional-3-Gsensor/dp/B00K768DHY

Something like that

If they are corded, then they'll just plug in and play, if they are wireless I believe you need an adapter:

http://www.amazon.com/Xbox-360-Wireless-Gaming-Receiver-Windows/dp/B000HZFCT2

How about something like this

http://www.amazon.com/Aerb-Multifunction-Wireless-Keyboard-Infrared/dp/B00K768DHY/ref=pd_sim_e_7?ie=UTF8&refRID=0S7CQKVXS3KBG8QYD2Z8

This would let you control your PC as well as the TV in a single control.

Also with IR blasters, you can allways hide the bulky box and use IR externders to control the TV. It would be a small little cable that would do it.
http://www.amazon.com/Infrared-Extender-Receiver-Emitter-Repeater/dp/B00AMTRR5K/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1426468760&sr=8-8&keywords=Ir+extender+cable

I don't know if this will work with TV, This is more for talking to IR printers and Modems. But you maybe able to hack something together to control a TV with this.
http://www.amazon.com/IrDA-USB-2-0-Adapter-Windows/dp/B004GED7SI/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

Also some UPS have a power saving features that will cut power to the monitor (Or TV in this case) when the computer is shutdown/sleeping. If you can get your TV to auto turn on when it has power that would work.

Dude. http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA4010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1421096344&sr=1-1

Or something else that isn't $130 lol

Newegg - http://www.newegg.ca/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100020128%204114%20600044653%204115&IsNodeId=1&bop=And&Order=REVIEWS&PageSize=30
Amazon - http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=lp_1194444_nr_p_72_0?fst=as%3Aoff&rh=n%3A172282%2Cn%3A%21493964%2Cn%3A541966%2Cn%3A172504%2Cn%3A490499011%2Cn%3A1194444%2Cp_72%3A1248879011&bbn=1194444&ie=UTF8&qid=1421096335&rnid=1248877011

Why do you think you need that $130 model? What research lead you to that conclusion?

I just purchased some of these to do the same thing in my master bedroom and the living room. So going to my tv is 1 long HDMI cable (about 50ft) and a Cat 5e cable. So far they are working well. Also I did buy that exact same USB Hub for the TV end of the connection.

USB can go 15m from what i remember.

https://amzn.com/B003L14ZTC

Unraid looked unruly to me so I just stuck with Win10. I don't think you'll need an SSD if you use unraid and you should be able to expand easily with either solution. They make expandable storage enclosures like this that you should be able to use no problem.

Good price, but they have the 4tb for only $29 more.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00834SJU8/

[Logitech k400] (http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Multi-Touch-920-003070/dp/B005DKZTMG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371664503&sr=8-1&keywords=k400) is only $30 and has been more then enough for me. I mostly use a harmony one, but have the keyboard on a coffee table shelf for when needed. I used to want the dinovo mini and edge, but the price tag just isn't worth it.

If you already have an Xbox 360 controller: I've got one of these guys for my xbmc/gaming setup. It works with plug n' play (don't use the included cd to install the driver) on my Windows 7 setup, and it works with most of my newer games if I want to play with a controller (this is great if you want to play upstairs on your [presumably] bigger screen, and a couch instead of an office chair). Bonus: XBMC requires no additional setup to use with the controller and has some handy functions (volume control, right thumbstick), but the left thumbstick has no function (you use the d-pad to navigate).

I can't vouch for begin able to use it from your basement, but I know I can mess with my roommates while they're watching the media center from my room (directly above where the pc is located)

USB Ethernet extenders also exist. Ive used one to go about 40 feet and its never missed a beat.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003L14ZTC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1426986198&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+ethernet+extender&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

How about vs this guy

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003X26VV4/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8

I am wondering what I should be looking for. I want it quiet and cold. And fast enough to eventually stream 4k movie files.

I've been using this one since 2012 still has not had one issue, just be sure any always on devices are plugged in lower than on off ones. https://smile.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y/

You can connect a wireless 360 controller to a PC with this receiver:

http://www.amazon.com/Xbox-360-Wireless-Gaming-Receiver-Windows/dp/B000HZFCT2

I know you are looking for a remote, but I haven't looked back after purchasing this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002H0BOBA
IOGEAR Multimedia Keyboard with Laser Trackball and Scroll Wheel

Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L14ZTC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1426986198&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+ethernet+extender&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

Have you looked into JBOD cases?

I have been thinking about buying one of these Mediasonic ProBox.

> Logitech K400

And Amazon!

This is what I have found the minimum necessary for an HTPC:

• Logitech Wireless Keyboard w/Touch Pad
  
  
• Windows Media Remote

US version = $24.99

Lenovo n5902.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005L2NTTQ/ref=redir_mdp_mobile

Try eBay.

I've done a couple Kabini and Bay Trails on Mini-Box M350 and Antec ISK110. All were mounted behind monitors

There's Silverstone Tek
Also there were some really cheap unknown brands on ebay

Here's what I've decided on. Let me know what you think.

• Windows 7 x64
  
  
• ASRock Q1900-ITX
  
  
• 4GB memory
  
  
• 120GB SSD
  
  
• Antec Mini-Itx Case ISK 110-Vesa

Harmony One remote and Dinovo Mini keyboard/mouse.

Do you have your Plex somehow feeding to XBMC or do they just watch the same folders?

You could try Powerline Ethernet. Esentially uses the powerlines of your home to run an ethernet line.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474268892&sr=8-1&keywords=powerline+ethernet

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B7I8HZ4/ref=mw_dp_mdsc?dsc=1

The Celeron is more than enough power for a simple XBMC box.

I'm using a Rii8, it has backlighting unlike the Hausbell:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B9996LA

Not if you get the 'H' variants:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HOJAVDG/ref=twister_B00I2H38PM

Those have space for a 2.5"

What about this one: http://www.amazon.ca/Intel-DN2820FYKH-Celeron-N2820-support/dp/B00HVKLSVC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1418069183&sr=8-5&keywords=Intel+Next+Unit+of+Computing+Kit

It's the newer model; you can use a 2.5" HD instead of a mSSD and you don't have to buy a wifi chip.

Here is where intel NUC kicks in, as small as mac mini, costs just around $150 (for celeron) or $250 (for i3-i5) barebone
http://www.amazon.com/Intel-DN2820FYKH-Celeron-N2820-support/dp/B00HVKLSVC

You will need to buy a SSD/HDD and Ram for it separately but total setup should still be under $100

Pepper Jobs W10 GYRO Air TV... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078NT49MJ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This is the exact one I got. 10/10.

> If you want to watch any mainstream app like Netflix, Hulu, sling, etc you will need to use a keyboard.

I'd rather use this than click through keyboard buttons with a D-pad. Also youtube searches take seconds where they were previously slow and painful with my kodi stick.

I've read that the HDmi Detective plus can fix that. I recently bought one but haven't had a chance to set it up yet.

Oh, well the only BitFenix HTPC's I see are miniATX

http://www.amazon.com/BitFenix-Mini-ITX-Without-Midnight-BFC-PRO-300-KKXSK-RP/dp/B008RJQ0LE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1383137137&sr=8-1&keywords=BitFenix

and miniATX or microATX

http://www.bitfenix.com/global/en/news/show/87,bitfenix-introduces-phenom/

correct me if I'm wrong.

The guy in this blog seems to have the same problem with the reconnecting issue.
He fixed it with one of these.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HVKLSVC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005LDLV6S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007WT9SU0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$239 USD all said and done. A great little setup.

I don't the Pi really has the chops to server media over a LAN but who knows, maybe i'm wrong.

I had a very similar problem. 5 different HDMI card's over 2 HTPC's and 2 different receivers of troubleshooting and it appeared that the HDCP handshake would be lost after initial power on (fine on the first run).

HDMI Detective

Personally, I hate Newegg. Try Amazon, at least for the case if you have your heart set on this setup. Try returning something to Newegg and see what they charge in restocking fees.

BitFenix Mini-ITX Tower Case Without Power Supply, Midnight Black

Install a 64GB SSD for the OS and a 2TB HDD for data. Why use 2 1TB drives?

I can't help but keep looking at the Intel NUC. For that budget, I would rather have a i5 NUC and slam an extra HDD in your workstation and stream over the network.

I'm also a fan of Shuttle PC. Cut out the huge PSU, it has no place in the HTPC market. Any ITX case should have a small form PSU pre-installed.

Shuttle DS61 V1.1 LGA1155 Intel H61

or

SHUTTLE SH67H3

and

Intel Core i3-3220T

Use low power CPUs to keep the heat to a minimum.

My $0.02

I have this but it does have 1 dead input and WAS $29.99 when I bought it. It auto detects usually when I turn on a new device.