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First, you could scrape that rust off and wire brush it clean. Then coat it with something like this

That will slow the rusting down a bit.

To run the fan constantly throughout the summer won't benefit you the way you think it will. A ceiling fan or a box fan will give you better results without costing as much money and without shortening the life of your heating system.

If you want to run the fan periodically throughout the summer, I wouldn't jump the terminals, I would upgrade your thermostat to a programmable one and run a new wire to your board. The thermostat I have now will run the fan for 4 minutes every hour the system isn't on. I do this to help keep the air in my house clean since I have a hepa filter.

Plus the fact that you can see some significant savings with a programmable thermostat. I ended up getting a WIFI connected one with an app so I can turn the system on/off from anyplace with my phone. So if we are out over night I can have the system off and turn it off as we are heading back to the house.

Based on your description, the thermostat is malfunctioning.

Realize all a t-stat does is close a switch in a 24vac circuit that tells the furnace to operate. Programmable t-stats just manage the switch to attain your programmed temps... but at the end of the day all it doing is opening and closing a switch (or switches if in the case of a/c).

Easily tested with a new thermostat. Buy and install a 'no-frills' t-stat. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-CT30A1005-Standard-Economy-Thermostat/dp/B000BQWADS/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1510432703&sr=1-6&keywords=thermostat

If the furnace now functions normally, then you've confirmed the the old t-stat was a POS and you can safely invest in a programmable or 'smart' one with some confidence it will work.

If the same problem occurs, then something else is happening and warrants a service call.

Am I seeing correctly that this is a wood-burning furnace with electric backup? That's fun- I don't often see those around here (western PA, USA)!


Personally, I get a little nervous about splicing in wires to control boards without photos. It *looks* like you should be ok in this case, but it might be better to just use a plug-in 24V transformer (~$15 USD) https://www.amazon.com/Transformer-Honeywell-Thermostat-Fyve-Global/dp/B075PN6NCV

What you're looking for is something called a ductulator. It's a moving chart where you can easily translate iwc to cfm. Not sure how to link from mobile but Amazon has them for cheap and there may be an online version if you look.

https://www.amazon.com/Trane-TD1-Ductulator-Sleeve-Calculator/dp/B01BUGXB7G

You either told the parts desk the wrong info or it was the parts desk guy's first day on the job. You cannot use a 230 volt motor in place of a 115 volt motor. You need a single phase motor.

Any universal blower motor should work for you as long as you match up the horse power and rpm rating. Many universal blowers have a horsepower range, so make sure to match up the capacitor to the correct horsepower rating.

Here's an example of a common universal motor we carry on our trucks:

NIDEC MOTOR CORPORATION (Emerson / US Motors) 5470 3/4 Multi HP Direct Drive Fan & Blower Rescue Moto https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QW26R20/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jlxQBb4DKHXJW

I think you are looking for something like this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DM8KQ3I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YbI0Bb3RN8WPX

It's not just long-term support I'm concerned about. When a product is required to "phone home" to vendor-controlled servers to perform its functionality, you've lost all control over your privacy (they now have a continuous stream of data on their servers about your home), not to mention the product's reliability and longevity.

 

I've gotten a response from a vendor that their thermostat does not require Internet access and that there are mobile apps that would allow one to control it over one's home WiFi network. It's not as pretty as the big vendor's products, but it does fit the bill.

Can't tell for sure but the orange component I believe isn't a capacitor but a MOV that functions as a lightning arrester. It did its job of sacrificing itself to save the board. If it has been working I would leave it alone.

Replacement board can be purchased for just over US$100 - https://www.amazon.com/Emerson-21D83M-843-Integrated-Furnace-Control/dp/B00B29QTH6

the contractor put it in for warranty, this is what's in there:

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LEVBF8?pf_rd_p=1581d9f4-062f-453c-b69e-0f3e00ba2652&pf_rd_r=44KMS56KMG3Y7AGXFPCA

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i can only adjust the input voltage and time delay

thanks!

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You’re looking for something like this. It is essentially a 240V relay with a 24V control circuit, which allows you to switch a line-volt heater using a low-voltage thermostat. Then you can choose any thermostat you like.

Aube RC840T-240 On/Off Switching Electric Heating Relay with Built-in 24 V Transformer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037MXM1C/

I don’t have any direct experience with it unfortunately, but maybe this will at least give you a place to start.

Don't quote me on that, but "most" of the Infinity line it. I haven't pulled up the specs on that specific unit (outdoor) and indoor combo.

Basically it means that they work together:

Here's the TStat that would normally be installed with that system:

https://www.amazon.com/CARRIER-Programmable-Thermostat-Reports-TP-WEM01/dp/B018RGK7UQ

buy a pocket thermometer and stick in the vent closest to the air handler in the attic. Then buy a temp/humidity sensor that sits on a table. You should see a 16-20 degree differential between the two temps.

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https://www.amazon.com/UEi-Test-Instruments-PDT650-Thermometer/dp/B004WE73N2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536714391

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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTPTG1J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_uCgMBbEQR1CGF

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If you don't mind I am looking to replace this capacitor. Will this one work?

https://www.amazon.com/Non-programmable-Thermostat-Backlit-Saswell-T21HTW-0/dp/B073PWMHXQ?keywords=thermostat+heat+pump&qid=1538071550&sr=8-9&ref=mp_s_a_1_9

Manual J Residential Load Calculation (8th Edition - Full)

I replaced it with this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LK73XQU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Perhaps a grounding/loose neutral issue. Or even a reversed hot/neutral. Use a circuit tester to test the outlet for faults if possible.