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There's a lot of different directions that you could go in, depending on what you want. The best sharpening is done on bench stones, but they have a learning curve. You can also use a jig system like the lansky and get good results. These are great because you can set an angle and keep it, but you are limited in the number of angles you can set (bench stones obviously are not).

I wouldn't recommend either of the sets you list, as they each have three pieces but all of them are basically the same grit. What is your price range?

I really think the best bang for your buck is the basic lansky system: https://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Standard-Coarse-Sharpening-System/dp/B000B8L6LI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1493602647&sr=8-3&keywords=lansky+system

It's pretty inexpensive for the basic set (the diamond set is worth it if you want to spend the extra money), pretty easy to use, and works well for most knives.

There are lots of videos on youtube that show good sharpening technique for bench stones. Murray Carter (master bladesmith) has a good dvd series on sharpening if you want to go down the free-hand route.

Yeah ill just copy paste something i sent someone else who had a 300 dollar budget. The only real big things id say you NEED are a few hand files, a bench vise and the steel to make from. Otherwise look into the 1x30 sander and some belts that are linked. Pick through it, all the links have prices in them so let me know what you think!

Okay going to make this short and concise. These are all my opinions to make blades.

• Steel from here (start with 1084 or 1095 and you can either start with .156 or .187 for thickness (.187 is on the THICK side), or you can also get .125 thick for thinner projects. And 1.5 inches wide is the smallest i would go, or you can get 2 inches wide to be safe)
  
  
• Lots of different files, this one will help to start with though
  
  
  
• This belt sander does amazing to start out with
  
  
  Going to need lots of belts for it, here are some. Would suggest getting the 50 grit (please remember he will need multiple amounts of these so get a few of them). I would also suggest grabbing the 120 grit to take some deep scratches out. However the 320 isn't necessary as you can do all that by hand with regular sand paper.
  
  
• 1x30 50grit
  
  
• 1x30 120grit
  
  
• 1x30 320grit
  
  
  Hopefully in the yard or somewhere he can have a workbench set up because having a benchvise is such a luxury.
  
  
• This vice would do the trick
  
  
  
• The magical angle grinder, you can pick this up locally or order online
  
  
• It will need some of these
  
  
  Hand sanding paper (The fun stuff)
  
  
• 320grit
  
  
• 600grit
  
  
• 1000grit
  
  
  Also a sharpening stone will be very helpful however i don't have much knowledge as the best way to go with these. After doing some research, This stone seems like it would do the trick for the most part
  
  I forgot about these, 2 should be okay if he doesnt already have some
  
  
  Assuming you do not buy the 320 grit belts, and buy (5) 50 grit, and (5) 120 grit belts.
  
  The total comes to right around 308.36
  
  Would like to note that all of this is for making the process easier. You can do all of this with 1 bench vise, 1 hand file, a hack saw and some steel. It would just take a long time and be extra tough! But absolutely doable without all of these gadgets
  
  
  And heres a coupon for anything at Harbor Freight 25% off! http://www.dealsoff.com/images/harbor-freight-25.jpg
  
  and this one http://www.harborfreight.com/20off-coupon912-aff-17573.html?utm_source=cj&utm_medium=aff&utm_campaign=wts-coupons&hftref=cj
  

Comments:

Go for it and good luck.

Advice:

Start small. Don't try to make a giant bowie to begin with. You will learn a lot on your first knife, and the result probably won't be exactly what you expect. As you learn, you can then go bigger, but start with something manageable. Do a knife about 8 inches in total length or so.

Google 'aaron gough youtube'. I don't know what video you watched, but I have seen a ton about using rebar and similar, which really doesn't work. Aaron gough gives a lot of practical advice and methods, and he makes good knives and is a cool redditor.

Use real steel. Buy some real steel. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FMYFVI

This is 30 bucks, and will make a real knife worth using.

Use files at first, smithing is way harder. Use a jig, it is harder to mess up than doing it freehand.

I would suggest getting it professionally heat treated: if you aren't doing too many, it will be cheaper than doing it ghetto at home and you will get way better results. When I started, I messed up about half of the ones I heat treated at home. It sucks to have a knife go to waste. I would suggest peters heat treat. You can do it at home if you want, but you will shell out more initially for the setup. It is fun though.

http://www.petersheattreat.com/blades/pricing/

Thirty bucks to get your blade awesomely heat treated.

Total cost would be about 100 dollars for: the steel, the files and material for a jig, and the heat treat. The piece of steel I linked to should be enough for a couple of knives.

More advice: trawl through this subreddit extensively. :) Research helps a ton for getting good results.

I'd say it's doable, especially with the equipment you've listed.

Find a copy of this book if you can. Best resource out there for building folders.

Use a quality waterjet provider and you can jet out the knives with little cleanup. You'll still have to clean up holes though... ream the pivots, drill and tap the other holes, etc.

Most people assemble the whole knife and get the opening+lockup working properly before they heat treat and grind bevels. It requires a lot of fit-up, taking apart, etc to get everything working properly... you probably won't be able to make the blade then work on the frame while it's in HT.

Make a jig to grind bevels if you don't have experience free-handing. There are simple ones that work very well.

Read read read. There are lots of WIP threads on the forums that will help you. Knifedogs, BF Shop Talk, Britishblades, etc.

Okay thank you very much! Do you have any tool recommendations for beveling the edge and also sharpening the blade? Is there a tool that can do both of these jobs with a different attachment? I was thinking about purchasing the lansky sharpening system. Is there something similar in which I can also attach a mill file to produce the bevel? I would want something to purchase, not plans to build and something less than $100 if possible. The bevel I'm thinking about is probably 1/4 of an inch or 3/8ths.

Thank you!

I used the grinder below until I bought a 2x72. I got mine a bit cheaper as it was 4 years ago or so, but the same one with a different brand name. I also bought a steel platen and added it.. Worked pretty good to get me started on a budget.

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https://www.amazon.com/Norse-BDSG2x6-9681119-Sander-Grinder/dp/B07FFKD4HH/ref=asc_df_B07FFKD4HH/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241955516116&hvpos=1o8&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16790348003686627987&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029357&hvtargid=pla-570400924991&psc=1

The cheapest way? If you're using a Gough jig, you can use a protractor to rig your angle, and tightly wrap your file in 220 grit sandpaper (you can also use a piece of flat steel for more precision). Then progress through the grits, raising a burr each time. Use the rough side old leather belt (I stole one of my husband's) as a strop. Green Polishing Compound on an old belt after using 2500 grit sandpaper will get you plenty sharp.

I sharpened our kitchen knives for a couple years before starting bladesmithing using this method. It'll easily create a good shaving edge, and is much faster than a lansky

Oh yeah, I thought 1095 was stupid expensive until I found it on texas knifemaker supply for $8 per foot... so yeah, I'll be getting some of that. I need a belt sander, but can't get one at the moment. Do you think this is a good sander? Would it be useful for grinding bevels?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B8IEA4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B8L6NG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

Lansky deluxe and stand. Got my knife from 0 to 100 in less than 20 minutes. Gough on youtube has a great video on how to effectively use it.

Not to endorse a specific vendor, but I just ordered this:
http://www.amazon.com/Scrap-Leather-Medium-Brown-Cowhide/dp/B006UUHUDO?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
and made a sheath from it today.

Having done this a few times, my best recommendation to you is to get 6-7 oz leather of whatever color floats your boat.

What kind of stitching do you do? I use an awl with two needles, per the instructions in this book: http://www.amazon.com/Art-Hand-Sewing-Leather/dp/1892214911/ref=sr_1_sc_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1464597294&sr=1-1-spell&keywords=hand+stiching+leather

These two are my favorites for beginning.

The Complete Bladesmith: Forging Your Way to Perfection https://www.amazon.com/dp/099870816X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Z.gZBbA2WBWF1

Step-by-Step Knifemaking: You Can Do It! https://www.amazon.com/dp/0615116590/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SahZBbKKD1BDF

Thanks, I'm not a knife maker as much as I am someone who works in a shop with tools a lot.

This is the book that got me going, it's alright but it talks more about the man than helpful stuff you need to know. I do everything he says because he seems to be the master. Some of his knives are being sold on eBay for upwards of $100,000.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1440211558/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/178-6782429-0947061

Edgemaking System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002IXQD8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PISdBbHXJEBEZ

I really recommend this. It works great and makes em scary sharp.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FMYFVI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1450143196&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=o1+tool+steel&dpPl=1&dpID=31xGT3DXKzL&ref=plSrch

This is where I've gotten my o1 for a long time. Look through the many different size combinations, you'll often find nonsensically cheap steel at certain dimensions. I recommend 1/8 thickness.

Thank you for the info. Are you referring to a blade like that? Lenox 20582-956R 9-Inch 6TPI Wood and Metal Cutting Reciprocating Saw Blade, 5-Pack https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0000224T4/

I'm interested in building one of these. About how long does one of these cans last in one of these?

Also, would one of the basic use BernzOmatic Basic Use Pencil Flame Propane Torch Head work with one of these, or does it need to be one of the higher-intensity torches?

Remember that you don't have to spend $200 for an top level angle grinder. I got by with $15 harbor freight cheapy for years before I started taking welding gigs, after which it burned out right quick. The more expensive ones are meant to be used hard, day in and day out. Cutting a few knives out, something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Makita-9523NBH-4-Inch-Angle-Grinder/dp/B0000223J4/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1415087089&sr=1-1&keywords=angle+grinder at $50 will getcha a long way.

im only on my third blade, and the first sander i bought was a 4x36 thinking the same thing. It ended up being a bit of a pain. I still use it for flattening all my edges and surface grinding. For actually grinding by bevels i have been using this https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Mini-Belt-Sander-3400/dp/B004D96ZCG/ref=pd_sbs_196_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004D96ZCG&pd_rd_r=BPYN0PVP11225WJZWP2Z&pd_rd_w=MEfYN&pd_rd_wg=H7m3J&psc=1&refRID=BPYN0PVP11225WJZWP2Z and its fantastic. plus, in this size you can search amazon for belt packs and get a set of various grits from 60 all the way to 600 in one package. Its also not gonna break the bank for your first grinder.

Here is the mobile version of your link

Basically this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S9T5558/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_L3CBDbK0DAC8N

Was planning on getting this for sharpening: https://www.amazon.ca/Lansky-LKCLX-Deluxe-Sharpening-Kit/dp/B000B8IEA4/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&psr=EY17&ie=UTF8&qid=1511831839&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=lansky

I did use curly maple along with a TransFast Water-Soluble Powder Dye Stain (COLONIAL MAPLE #3277) finished with Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil. Here is a link to the dye http://www.ebay.com/itm/TransFast-Water-Soluble-Dye-1-oz-container-COLONIAL-MAPLE-3277-/261665978437?pt=Paint_Paint_Supplies&hash=item3cec81f845 and for the tru-oil http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000C5398/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Close, it was Actually one of these

The Craftsman would be a big upgrade from the 1x30 simply because the two inch belts will help you get a more even flat grind. It's a solid little machine that can make a great knife if you're on a budget and can learn its quirks. Runs really fast though.

Edit: looks like the Craftsman isn't made anymore but this one looks identical

https://www.amazon.com/Norse-BDSG2x6-9681119-Sander-Grinder/dp/B07FFKD4HH/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=Norse+2x42&qid=1555990589&s=gateway&sr=8-4

The mods I did are remove all the dumb shrouds and hoods over the belt, jb weld a ceramic platen on, replace the work rest because the stock one has weird grooves in it.

2x42" just isnt verry common in the EU imho if we are talking about something liket this https://www.amazon.com/Palmgren-Belt-bench-finishing-machine/dp/B0006577HI

what is more common over here are these types:
https://www.amazon.de/Einhell-Stand-Bandschleifer-Grobschleifscheibe-Schleifband-Scheibendurchmesser/dp/B00HT952FI

Which arent great as the motor is really weak and stalls out under medium pressure + the belt is at an awkward angle and the stone housing is in the way while grinding from the left.

There is also this type: https://www.amazon.de/Bandschleifer-Tellerschleifer-station%C3%A4ren-Ryobi-rbds4601g/dp/B073V5L71L/

Which often have the problem that one side is not accesible to the edge which makes using them awkward.

Lastly something like this: https://www.amazon.de/Metabo-601750000-BS-175-Kombi-Bandschleifmaschine/dp/B003U3U2SY/

Which still has the problem with the wheel housing but has longer belts and a stronger motor and the arm is adjustable. But as it is a rather uncommon size belts are rather expensive imho.