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I think a block and tackle is your best bet. It's how humans have hauled up heavy things for thousands of years.

I'm not a mover, but I've done exactly that when moving to a new place - going up the exterior and in through the balcony. It went really well, so I also used it for moving small but heavy things, like boxes of books.

I made a 3:1 block and tackle, sort of like this: https://jimmygreen.com/purchase-systems/668-handy-billy-41-purchase-system. That reduces the load on the part that you pull by 3x (so your 180 lb headboard becomes 60 lbs). We used some climbing webbing attached with a lark's head to the railing of the unit above where it entered the concrete of the balcony floor, and attached the hook of the top block to that. That allowed us to haul the weight above the top of the railing, which is important. Otherwise you can only get it up to railing, and then have to haul it over by hand, which can be awkward and difficult. You haul from the upper position / destination.

At that 3:1, one person can haul the weight up, though it's easier with two, so that you can have someone on the ground to get it started, and then they can walk up to help guide it in over the railing when lowering it from the apex. For the heaviest stuff, if you have three persons, one person can haul while the other "tails" - they stand past the person hauling and hold the working end to keep the weight from being dropped as the hauler moves their hands. Having them take a turn around the railing (like off to the side) to introduce some friction in the system will make their job easier, especially when it comes time to hold the weight in place and lower it down. That also gives the hauler a chance to take a break mid-haul, if needed.

You don't need a cleat on it like on that one I linked to. You'll need a sufficient length of rope to be able to run it as 3:1, specifically three times the height you'll be running it, plus enough for the knot on the lower block, and enough extra to haul on. For your third floor balcony, assuming 10' per floor, you're looking at probably 110' minimum.

Your 3/8" polypro rope should be strong enough; if it's long enough, all you'll need are the blocks. Here are the ones I bought: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002T44TP2, $26 per. Those can be reeved for 4:1 or even 5:1 purchase if you have enough rope (I later used it in 5:1 mode to haul out a 400-something pound outboard engine, which felt awesome).

If you don't want to buy blocks, you can get by with a trucker's hitch (more detail on wikipedia), which will give you (depending on how it is tied) 2:1 purchase - enough that three or four guys hauling together can lift the weight - or 3:1 purchase if you have enough rope - though there's a lot more friction in these systems, costing you something like 40% of the advantage of the purchase. If you decide to go down this route, just say so, folks here love the trucker's hitch and will give you all sorts of details on it. A word of caution with it though: Galactic law stipulates that the successful use of the trucker's hitch to manage a significant weight necessitates playing its theme song.

Safety: Be sure your anchor point can handle at least twice the weigh of the things you'll be hauling up. After creating your anchor, pull yourself up off the floor with it and bounce on it a little. You really don't want it to tear out, damaging the building and risking personal safety.

i love rigging random hanging items from my basement ceiling. I am a rock climber and train ninja warrior obstacles so I like to hang all types of stuff.

My favorite way is to create loops with 1" tubular webbing (climbing stuff not hobby). You can buy rolls of one inch webbing for pretty cheap.

http://www.amazon.com/BlueWater-Tubular-Climb-Spec-Webbing-Black/dp/B004AGOHT0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464207699&sr=8-1&keywords=1%22+climbing+webbing

Then cut to size and use a water knot to make a loop out of the webbing. I loop it around the rafter on my ceiling and I clip a beaner or any thing else to the webbing and it supports a ton of weight. You can easy move it if you want. Or i just have slowly made a ton of loops around the basement so it is easy to create different courses or routes.

With your pullup bar you can drill holes in the end of the bar and bolt on eye loops. Then create two loops of webbing over the rafters in the garage and hook up the bar.

In my opinion a swinging pull up bar is not fun and personally i would want it fixed with no swing on it. gymnastics rings are a better option for pullups with movement.

These Nayoya ones are great. They come with the rings and easily adjustable webbing. pretty cheap and if you can work pull ups, muscle ups, dips and all kinds of bodyweight exercises. rings are the shit.

http://www.amazon.com/Nayoya-Gymnastic-Strength-Crossfit-Training/dp/B009RA6C1K/ref=sr_1_5?s=sports-and-fitness&ie=UTF8&qid=1464207888&sr=1-5&keywords=gymnastics+rings

Actually, we're /r/BDSMcommunity. Here's my basic spiel which includes some single and two column ties for the OP, should they actually be interested in bondage in the bedroom and not actually tying up livestock on the farm.

Please check out our bondage basics article in /r/BDSMfaq. It is very informative and will say much of what I say here.

Depending on what you are looking to get into, I would highly recommend the following books, in no particular order:

• Two Knotty Boys: Showing You the Ropes
  
• Two Knotty Boys: Back on the Ropes
  
• Bondage for Sex
  
• Shibari you can use
  
• Complete Shibari Volumes I and II
  
  For websites, you should most definitely check out Twisted Monk's video tutorials and the Two Knotty Boy's downloads. Rope specific subreddits include /r/shibari and /r/kinbaku.
  
  For general knot-tying information, I like animated knots by grog, and of course your favorite search engine. Learning the basic terms can help you a lot, and if you really get interested in knots and rigging in general there's always /r/knots and sailing related stuff.

How about this? It's a regular overhand knot, but tied with the rubber band stretched out while it's tied, so that the loop around the thing is small enough that it clings permanently. Just in your case, replace the pen with whatever part of your AC adapter you want, and the hair scrunchie (that I stole from my little sister because they break way less than rubber bands do) with your rubber band.

Here it is removed from the pen so you can see what I mean more clearly.

 

Even better, you can get velcro wraps with little holes in them, like these. Loop it through itself around the cable to get it to hold on, and then just wrap it around the whole of whatever you want and velcro it to itself to hold it all together.

Most working knots are pre-historic or a-historic.

Since natural fibre rope tends to decompose quickly, most knots do not survive for archaeologists to find them (the biggest exception is knots used in Egyptian tombs). By the time people started writing about knots such as in Ancient Greece, most of the key nautical knots were already in widespread use.

Other knots are not mentioned in ancient history, so we can guess that they were developed more recently, but they were invented by sailors who were either illiterate or didn't bother writing them down, but instead passed the knot on to other sailors by direct instruction. Given that sailors tend to travel widely, the most useful knots spread globally (probably rather quickly). Eventually those knots got documented by someone like Clifford Ashley, but the story of their original invention was lost by that point.

The Ashley Book of Knots has a number of cute stories in it although the vast majority of its knots have no history. The History and Science of Knots discusses the methodological problems with determining a history as much as history itself.

As to your particular example, you can figure out the properties of a knot by testing it. People like Ashley and the International Guild of Knot Tyers have extensively tested knots that have come down to us through history. Although many knots work so differently in synthetic fibre that a lot of the knowledge from even the mid 20th Century doesn't apply on a modern ship.

Excellent points. You don't really want a knot that will tighten around a limb, that can get dangerous pretty fast.

As far as scissors go, I recommend a pair of paramedic shears. They're great at not poking the skin.

The best thing would probably be to get a tree hugger, or something like it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004WJM7RE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1462769359&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=tree+hugger&dpPl=1&dpID=61-OzcqqlGL&ref=plSrch

http://www.amazon.com/Lindsey-Philpott/e/B001JP7M4C

I have his The Ultimate Book of Decorative Knots in hard cover. It's great. Really nice photographs.

http://www.amazon.com/Creative-Ropecraft-Stuart-Grainger/dp/1574092480/ref=pd_sim_14_12?ie=UTF8&dpID=51ytxt4HWhL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR101%2C160_&refRID=1EA18FQTZ5JA2PD9R0EQ

I reference that one a lot when tying.

So like, doing a series of half hitches? Is your goal something like this? Coffee Brown 18/3 25 ft 3-wire Flat Cloth Covered Wire Antique Lamp Cord Cloth Electrical Cord 3 Core Round Cord, 18ga. Vtg Lamp Wire Antique https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0727RTF76/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mtIkDb2EKY9F8

Get some strap to go around the tree since rope can damage the bark: https://www.amazon.com/Camping-Polyester-Carabiner-Portable-Outdoors/dp/B0748DJLBK/ref=pd_day0_hl_468_11?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0748DJLBK&pd_rd_r=20dcad6d-d43a-4ec2-b6ca-ef831b2d2d46&pd_rd_w=MI5rt&pd_rd_wg=9uRZo&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=MCKEVXDHWCN6DBNJBV4P&refRID=MCKEVXDHWCN6DBNJBV4P Get the strap around the tree and run one of the buckle through the other one and pull the strap tight. Then tie the rope to the hammack with this https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Double_overhand_noose this end will be permanent. Run the other end of the rope through the free ring on the strap, adjust it to the desired position, and secure it with https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sailor%27s_hitch . That knot will be easy to undo even after being loaded. You have no need for the carabiners.

Either cut the long strap and re-sew it at a more adjustable length, or replace that buckle with a ladder lock style, which will let the excess hang out the back. Something like this, but sized appropriate to your strap width: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0734X91FR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_02CZBbRG6MK6E

Edit: or just fold it over and use two safety pins parallel to the fold (vertical) to lock it in place. Poke in and poke out on the same side so it's not rubbing against your head.

Also in the US Amazon appstore - Knots 3d

I would recommend getting a better phone holder.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01KZP8B2S

I use this one, but bolted into the handlebar stem, so it's centered and lower profile.