Top products from r/leaf

First, some background: The percentage display on the dashboard is only loosely related to the actual state of charge of the battery, because the battery management system reserves a buffer at both the bottom and top end of the charge range to protect the longevity of the battery. When you charge up to 100%, there's 38-39 kWh in the battery rather than 40 kWh. The highest I've gotten the true SoC (state of charge) of the battery to when it showed 100% on the dashboard is 98.2%, but 95-97% has been more common. Similarly, when it says 4% on the dashboard, there's a good bit more than 4% of actual charge still in the battery. It's like how you can drive many miles after the meter reads "E" (empty) in a gas car. After 0% it'll show "--%" if it's like previous year Leafs while driving quite a few more miles, then you'll get a turtle icon and reduced power for a final mile or two to safely pull over. At that point, the car will stop moving, but there's actually some kWh of power still in the pack, because running a lithium ion battery down to real 0% permanently damages it and the car won't let you do that.

THAT SAID, I am slightly concerned about what you've said. I did a 60 mile highway drive yesterday with the A/C on full blast in 90 degree weather and >70 MPH most of the way, and still averaged 4 miles per kWh. I don't think I've ever gotten only 3.2 miles per kWh in the new Leaf. I've had many trips with more than 5 miles per kWh on 35-45 MPH roads. I am easily getting the 150 miles per charge, so if you're only getting 80-120, that sounds wrong.

This sounds silly, but what are your tire pressures at? The difference between underinflated and overinflated tires can easily be 10% or more on your miles/kWh efficiency. I have mine at 42 PSI right now. When a new car shows up at a dealership, one of the things they do to prep it for sale is to let air out of the tires, because they're shipped overinflated. If they let out too much, you'll want to pump them back up above 40 PSI (well above the 36 PSI the sticker says to inflate them to, I know) and go on another long drive to see if that improves your efficiency.

If that doesn't work, the next thing I'd do is get on Amazon and order this OBDII scanner and download the Leaf Spy Pro app on your phone. That will let you see the real State of Charge in kWh for your car whenever you want, which will help you figure out if there's a real issue here.

• Typical Leaf Spy Pro screenshot near 100% charge
  
• New battery stats
  
• 4 mi/kWh was my average over the first 220 miles I put on the car, which gives you 150+ miles range as advertised
  
• High efficiency on local trips shouldn't be too rare
  

This is the ODB2 BT I got, works great: https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-Android/dp/B00PJPHEBO/

Take a look at this for the L2 charging: http://www.instructables.com/id/313CONVERTING-A-2013-LEAF-LEVEL-1-12AMP-CHARGER-TO/

It is super easy to convert your existing L1 "charger" (it's not really a charger) to be both L2 and L1 capable, then you just need a 240v outlet (which is ~$100-$200 for an electrician to install, easy to DIY as well)

I have yet to do any public charging, but just signed up for a ChargePoint account, thanks to http://roev.org/ the account should work at ChargePoint, Blink, and EVgo station which is 90%+ of public stations. Maybe someone else can comment how well it works and if it's still a good idea to sign up for multiple provider accounts.

I also really like the Leaf Manager app: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=no.darkspawns.leafmanager&hl=en

Way faster and more useful than the Nissan provided app.

Congratulations on your new Leaf! For anyone who doesn't have a similar device already, definitely plug in one of these and connect it with the LeafSpy app on your phone before your 7 days is up: https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=pd_rhf_sc_p_img_9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=5539G61R49EZH0220MRH

You want to be sure the battery is in good condition before you lose your opportunity to return the car. Good luck and enjoy your new Leaf!

leaf spy recommended one specific scanner, the LELink bluetooth model.

I would go with that specific model.

it is awesome!

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QJRYMFC

I've owned two wifi models, a chinese one and a good plx devices kiwi and the first was maddening and rarely worked correctly, and the second sometimes required extra resetting.

now that ios supports bluetooth, its all easy peasy.

You need an iphone that supports bluetooth 4.0.

anyway, leaf spy connects perfectly and without intervention or configuration in a second or two and its a whole different (good) experience.

I like this one for controlling an L1 EVSE:
https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-Wi-Fi-Energy-Management-SP-2101W/dp/B00N4OBJAO/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1486343106&sr=1-1&keywords=edimax+smart+plug

Can be controlled by a smartphone (also has a hidden API if you're technically inclined -- I control it from my linux server), scheduleable, energy metering real-time reading of how much energy it's pulling along with kWh totals and reports.

Since I don't have a predictable driving/charging schedule (and thus just using the normal schedule feature would result in charging every night eventually up to 100%), I tend to use one-off cron/at jobs from my linux box to do one-off charge sessions.

edit: If I was purchasing again, I might consider the newer https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Monitoring-Required-Anywhere-HS110/dp/B0178IC5ZY/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1486343373&sr=1-2&keywords=tp-link+hs110 which supports 240V (up to 16A), which would then support the L1 EVSE upgraded to L2. However I haven't personally used it hence the original recommendation. The Edimax, while only supporting 120V (up to 15A), has been reliable for me in a year of usage.

You've got it. /u/WizrdOfSpeedAndTime got you covered with the earlier comment. Just to provide another option for you, I went with this Siemens Versicharge Unit. <$500 from Amazon. $250 to have a local electrician run a line to the garage for me.

Had it for about 5 years now, and have been pretty happy. I did run in to an issue with the equipment but they stood up, replaced it, very easy.

The 110 charging cable just stays in my trunk and I use if VERY RARELY... but it is nice to have for emergencies.

On an S only, yes.

I had to buy Nissan wiring harnesses and solder them, I paid for a day of the Nissan service manual to get the wiring diagram for the car, as well as a little black box that could respond to the steering wheel buttons.

All said and done it functioned perfectly, and I had Android Auto that functions better than on my 2018.

I'll try to look up my material list and put it here.

Edit:


Steering Wheel:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B4PJC9K/


Backup Cam:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MXJFWMJ/


Harness (doesn't have all of the leads required, need to add more):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VXED54/


Antenna cable:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PANZ7U/


Double din bracket:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GNG3X7W/


Wiring diagram:
Ask for it, don't really want to just post it here or if that's against the rules.

If you get a TeslaTap there's a midpoint stop in Seven Points; adds 16 miles to the route but if you can get 3hrs @ 6kW that's good for another 12hrs of L1 charging.

Best bet is just more time in Tyler tho, and maybe a L2/L3 helper stop in the outskirts of Dallas coming and going.

With BEV, it's never the destination but the journey!

Yes, what this person is saying. Download Leaf Spy Pro (yes, it'll cost you a few bucks off Google Play, oh well), and get an OBD (I got this one - ANY Leaf you come across, plug it in, load up Leaf Spy Pro, and look at the top right number in the main screen. Here is an example -- the 50.8% at the top at 67.4% SOC (state of charge) means the car is probably around 75-77% SOH (state of health) -- you don't want to buy a used Leaf like mine with that much battery degradation unless you just won't drive long-distance (my trips to Portland from Hillsboro are very rare, only about once every two weeks, and it's only 35 miles roundtrip).

BTW for anyone wondering from my screenshot, yes, the battery does get that hot. It's 85 F outside right now outside my house, and I just came back from the grocery store. Yes, Leaf Spy Pro does indeed say my battery is at 127 F. One time I came back from Portland and my battery temped at 205 F according to Leaf Spy Pro. This is what us Leaf customers get for buying an EV with no thermal management system...

Depends what your purchasing factors are. Is cost your main sale point or is functionality like wi-fi options something you care for?

I recommend Juicebox if you want everything in one package: https://www.amazon.com/JuiceBox-WiFi-equipped-Electric-Vehicle-Charging/dp/B00UB9R4KO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495805823&sr=8-3&keywords=juicebox+evse

Just to emphasize: You really need a heavy duty extension cord to do this safely, preferably with 12 ga conductors. This would work nicely:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KKLMO8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1420349476&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=41CDHU8QEsL&ref=plSrch

Also, a bit of dielectric grease and electrical tape will really help keep the connection clean.

It's basically just a glass coating that seals the pores in the glass making super smooth.

Available pretty much everywhere, I usually grab it at Walmart.

I have the LELink. It works great, easy pairing and fast refresh rate.

LELink^2 Configurable Auto On/Off Bluetooth Low Energy BLE OBD-II OBD2 Car Diagnostic Tool For iPhone/iPod/iPad and Android https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0755N61PW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JQBtDbFP4S3MM

> Do you think the one with 48000 miles has DC fast charge?

There is no way to speculate about either of them without actually looking at the car. If you can call the dealer and get them to post a picture of the charging port, that's the best way. And whatever you do, make sure to double-check it yourself before signing anything.

I bought this OBD reader, it works with TorquePro and LeafSpy, and is on Amazon Prime, at least in my area. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QJRYMFC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have these on my 2012 and they work great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009JKI5Y/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LTHX5O0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014K09SPS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you go to the link, there should be pictures of the setup of what I did. It is very simple:

1. AC inverter (pure sine wave - 1000 watt minimum). I used a cheaper model to start with and had loud electronic noise on fridge and TV. I ended up getting this one.
   
   
2. Connect positive alligator grip of inverter to the positive terminal of car 12 volt battery. Connect the negative to the main battery negative (to the side of the 12 volt battery - not the 12 volt battery).
   
   
3. Turn car on and turn off AC fan, radio etc. Leave in park, and leave car on. Your car has a dc converter that will transfer 1500wH from the large battery to the 12 volt battery.
   
   
4. Plug in extension chord to the inverter, turn it on and run it to your house appliances. If you want to know how much you're using, get a kila-watt-meter. I think this is useful to see how much power you are drawing - I maxed out at ~ 400w. Lower is better: I disconnected fridge briefly to run coffee machine to avoid overloading inverter.
   
   Be cautious. If needed, get help. I'm not recommending this for others, just explaining what I did. In other words, people have various levels of electrical knowledge and I don't want to be responsible for any untoward events.
   

Fellow iOS owner here. Get this Bluetooth low energy adapter. Works great for LeafSpy. Waaaay faster than wifi, and no need to change your wifi settings every time you want a peek.

LELink Bluetooth Low Energy BLE OBD-II OBD2 Car Diagnostic Tool For iPhone/iPod/iPad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QJRYMFC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_74E-wb57TB3PE

PlugShare is your friend. Visit the website, get the app, get familiar with charger locations.

Check to see if the car qualifies for the No Charge to Charge program from Nissan. This will allow you get charge free at select chargers for 2 years.

Nissan's EZ Charge app also tells you where the chargers that are Nissan compatible are. Bonus, it is also blatantly obvious about where you can leverage No Charge to Charge, again, only if you qualify for that.

When planning on going on a long distance drive, be familiar with where the chargers are along the way.

If you haven't already, look in to an L2 charger for use at home. Most folks will get a JuiceBox Pro 40A which enables them to track power utilization via WiFi. Bonus of getting the JuiceBox vs some of the others is that the JuiceBox uses the NEMA 14-50 connector, which enables you push more power later on. Basically buying for all electric cars you might buy, not just this one. Plus cheaper that the ChargePoint at home variant, though the ChargePoint at home Variant is handy for tracking charges at home, and not at home.

Get the apps for the Chargers in your area. As mentioned, there's ChargePoint, Greenlots, and others. PlugShare is good for finding the chargers regardless of brand/owner. The brand/owner apps are handy for actually using those chargers, and seeing whether or not they're in use, or online. When you get to the charger, the app can let you enable it, and track the charging status.

Don't be too worried about the charger vendor variants. It's basically like having RaceTrac, Wawa, Mobile, Exxon, gas stations and such. You might prefer going to one brand over the other, but it helps to know where the others are for when you're in dire need of a charge.

Other than that, just learn to leverage regenerative braking (B-Mode) while driving, and avoid hard accelerations, and hard braking.

Yes, I recommend https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W0SDLRY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1. This works 100% on my iPhone and my 2013 S. Turn on Bluetooth and WiFi and connect to the OBD connector once its plugged into the Leaf.

Thanks.

Ok, I found this for $430, but it's indoor only, and had only a 14' cord.

This for $499 is indoor/outdoor, but has only a 20' cord.

Unfortunately, neither would meet my needs -- my parking space can barely be reached using my current 23' cord, and I can't practically install a new electrical anything that's any closer.

Funny that a search for "EVSE" didn't find either of these.

BTW, I provided these links using my phone.

What /u/iakona_ said to set the regular timer. Unfortunately no known way to set the climate controls from the OBDII port, so no remote heating outside of the built-in timer. Also, make sure to get a verified working OBDII dongle. Newer ones don't work. I have this one and it works great (and has a switch to turn it off built in): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q5YRC4C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I had no issues finding what I needed and getting them from Amazon. None of the Yakima dealers really carry the Qclips anyway, you always have to special order them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00066Z07G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012SFK8G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'd suggest something like this instead.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazingE-1001-0015-B-Charging-Wall-Mount-Connector/dp/B072MP3N1Y/

There's an Alexa version too:
https://skills-store.amazon.com/deeplink/dp/B077VXVF8D?deviceType=app&share&refSuffix=ss_copy

It looks like it only works with US cars as it wanted me to login to Nissan USA.

Sure. This is the exact one I bought.

LELink Bluetooth Low Energy BLE OBD-II OBD2 Car Diagnostic Tool For iPhone/iPod/iPad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QJRYMFC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_46GLzbYEMWG80

• Get a Bluetooth OBDII adapter (https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497904775&sr=8-2&keywords=bluetooth+OBD),
  
• check the StateOfCharge on the battery with LeafSpy (get the paid version) on the app store.
  
• Me, I would look at 2015s since they have the newer battery.
  
• Preferably check if it has the QuickCharge package (should have a CHADMO connector in the front next to the normal charge port).
  
• Make sure they have the trickle charger.
  
• Assume if the dealer is not Nissan, they won't anything about the car.
  
• Check CarFax for maintenance.

I bought the BAFX OBDII which has been working well for my 2013 Leaf and LeafSpy Pro using two different Android devices. It's also about $13 less than the LELink device.

It's the JuiceBox Pro EVSE on amazon for $600.

They also have the regular JuiceBox (without the wifi extras) for $500.

I don't have an iPhone so I got this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS
Works fine on my 2017 with my phone & tablet.

Bought this last month. Works fine.

I believe this is the one the app recommended at the time, LELink, so that's what I got, even though it's more expensive than most others. I can confirm it works, though: ww.amazon.com/LELink-Bluetooth-Energy-OBD-II-Diagnostic/dp/B00QJRYMFC

This one works fine for me:
Panlong Bluetooth OBD2 Car... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00PJPHEBO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Holy cow. Did they sell you a Level 3 or level 2 charger?

A L3 charger uses the CHADEMO port on the Leaf (the left side one) and you do NOT want to be doing that on a daily basis. It's going to heat up and wear the pack out quickly. It is highly unusual to have such an installation in a home. If you do have such a beast, you are going to definitely want to limit the charge rate--probably around 10kW.

A L2 charger uses 220-240V and charges at a rate of 6.6kW on a 2018 Leaf. It plugs into the J1772 port on the front of the car. This is what you should install in your home as it charges roughly 5x faster than L1 charging at 110V. This would take 6 hours to go from 0-100%.

A L1 charger charges on a standard 110V outlet (like you use for any appliance in your house). It charges at a rate of 1.5kW. For a 40 kWh leaf, this would take something like 29 hours from 0-100%.

Typically a home user will have a 50A 220V circuit run to a plug on the wall. Then you would buy a Juicebox Pro 40 and charge with that:
https://www.amazon.com/JuiceBox-Electric-Vehicle-Charging-Station/dp/B00UB9R4KO?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-brave-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00UB9R4KO

If the charger is tripping the circuit breaker, something definitely sounds wrong. Keep in mind 22kWh is 100 Amps of current, which is a TON of power. You may be over-drawing what the house can provide and this could be a safety issue.

P.S. This info is valid for the US. Countries with 220V standard electrical service may differ.

your post was automatically removed as spam by reddit. you might want to try submitting a clean link in a text post.

Be wary of the really inexpensive ones. A lot of manufacturers have been keeping the model# and Amazon listing the same, but changing to a cheaper, less compatible chipset. In your link, people in 2015 and earlier say it work with Leaf. Some from in 2016-2018 say it doesn't.

I got burned on a different $10 model of these where the reviews said "Works with Leaf", and it didn't anymore.

This was the one I ended up getting that works: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QJRYMFC/

I was thinking about using one of these:
http://smile.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413987597&sr=8-1&keywords=kill+watt+meter

to get an accurate number of KwHs and then multiply that by .09 (my rate for KwHs) and then taking that off the total. I think I'd end up paying less. I tested it but my outlet isn't big enough to hold the trickle charger with this and my garage door opener.

This is the one I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W0SDLRY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

there's this, but I don't have an alexa device to know if it works or not.

https://www.amazon.com/Nissan-North-America-NissanConnect-EV/dp/B077VXVF8D

Or this https://www.amazon.com/2883-Heavy-Duty-Contractor-Extension-Lighted/dp/B000KKLMO8

Here is the desktop version of your link

Another one that I can verify, since it's the one I am using, works on a 2014 Leaf is:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is the one I bought that works on my 2013 leaf.

Panlong Bluetooth OBD2 OBDII Car Diagnostic Scanner Code Reader Check Engine Light for Android - Compatible with Torque Pro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PJPHEBO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iFwDCbBAX5HBC

Would this device work with Leafspy?

Here is the mobile version of your link

Yeah, the LE Link (in case someone wants the link) is really slick by comparison to the other OBD connectors I saw. Very small, pulls nearly no power, and I never even had to pair it.

I use this one with my iPhone SE, on the list of compatible LeafSpy Pro devices for iOS.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QJRYMFC

2013 Leaf SV

I have no idea. I bought this one, and it works fine for me. I previously bought a couple other chinese imports off ebay that didn't work.

This is the one we use. It's installed outdoors and there are no issues.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazingE-1001-0015-B-Charging-Wall-Mount-Connector/dp/B072MP3N1Y

Seems odd to be that low. If you go look at used leafs, it's worth buying the leaf spy pro app and an ODB2 Bluetooth module:

LELink^2 Configurable Auto On/Off Bluetooth Low Energy BLE OBD-II
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0755N61PW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zkU0CbJEPZHB8

It will show you the remaining battery capacity.

My bad : Veepeak Mini Bluetooth OBD2 OBDII EOBD Scanner Adapter Automotive Check Engine Light Diagnostic Code Reader for Android Windows https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_0viSybDPM03EG

As opposed to Excelvan v1.5 Bluetooth Mini Small Interface OBD2 Scanner Adapter Torque Android https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007P14NPU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_XwiSybD7NGCEX

The excelvan was dropping the BT way too often..almost every drive (phone: htc one m8)