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I did this project on my 2017 Mazda touring on Tuesday.
I used this product. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BPDHL5S/
It is a little less than what you are looking at. I added this wiring kit...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBPF7HE


I made an error on my install and let me tell you what it was...I put the first plate into a hole that was too small for the bolt. It was an extra 90 minutes to get back to zero but lesson learned :)


The wiring was super easy two wires on the driver's side rear light array. One on the left side
They plug in between the array and the lighting harness. Super easy too. In the trunk below the little tray on the driver's side is a great place to ground the light kit and a rubber boot that has a wire bundle running. You can use this as a good place to put the wire underneath to the battery.

Running the wire to the battery from the back was made much easier by my using fiberglass sticks. I used some networking rods that I have from networking projects.


I used them to pull the wire from the front to the back along side the brake lines. It was made super easy by using the rods and I would recommend them for this project.

Someone else mention that the bolts and having a second person to put the trailer up without losing the bolts...I left the pull wires on and feed them though the openings on the trailer hitch by myself and just pulled the guide wires one at a time and that allowed me to tighten up the bolts without worrying about losing the bolts back into the frame.


Other than the issue with the first bolt it was easy. You need a torque wrench to tighter the four bolts to the spec of 110 ft-lbs.


Feel free to PM if you have questions.

I've got a 2004 Mazda 6 Sport Wagon also.

Last January (Jan 2017 I think, but might have been 2016) I installed a Grom Audio "Mazda 02-08 USB Android iPod iPhone Bluetooth AUX car kit" - Model# MAZU3 device.

I also purchased and installed the Bluetooth dongle & Aux-In/USB Charging adapter cable.

Installation required me to remove the OEM stereo and make a minor modification to it (hardest part of that was actually opening the cage of the stereo itself, in order to get to the circuit board).

Then the Grom device plugs in to the socket on the back of the OEM stereo that would be used by the optional factory CD changer.

The Grom 'impersonates' the CD changer, so the stereo thinks it is playing a CD from the CD changer when you are listening to the Grom

PROS:

• Finally I have satisfactory Bluetooth hands-free phone capability in the car.
  
  
• I can wirelessly stream music (from any source) from my phone to the car stereo. I primarily use this for SiriusXM, but can also listen to music stored on the phone, or Spotify/Pandora/iHeartRadio, whatever.
  
  
• I've paired Windows Phones and an iPhone 7+ to the car, with no problems. I assume an Android phone would work equally well but haven't tried one myself.
  
  
• When I originally installed the Grom unit I loaded up a pretty large USB stick with music. LOTS of albums, lots of songs. I believe I stuck to Grom's documented requirements regarding directory structures and filenames. I can listen to the music from the USB.
  
  
• I've never actually used the Aux-In, but it exists and I assume it will work just fine.
  
  CONS:
  
• Due to the design of the system and how it interfaces to the car stereo there is no audible indication you are receiving a phone call if you aren't already listening to the Grom. I.e., if you're listening to a CD or the radio then you will only know you're receiving a phone call if you see the phone display that there is an incoming call. On my phone, at least, if the phone is in the car and paired to the Grom than the phone won't ring audibly (because it is ringing via the Grom), and so if you aren't listening to the Grom you don't know a call is coming in.
  
  
• No display other than the car's factory LED strip above the HVAC vents. So you can't see who is calling you other than by looking at your phone screen. You can't see any text description of whatever music is being played.
  
  
• Navigating the file structure of the USB stick is inconsistent & unpredictable. I've given up trying to figure it out, and just concluded that since I like all of the music I loaded on the stick (after all, if I didn't like it I wouldn't own it or have put it on the stick) I just listen to the music as it plays and don't worry about it too much. It makes it impossible to go find a particular song though.
  
  
• Occasionally the full system (phone - car stereo - Grom, don't know or care where to assign the blame) will effectively get confused and either I'll hear music coming from the USB stick and my phone, or the system won't be able to play a physical CD, or the system won't switch from the USB to the phone. When this happens the only solution is to force a reset by turning the car off and then restarting the car. This only happens rarely, but it does happen.
  
  **
  **
  I think Grom should:
  
  

• not charge extra for the additional cables/dongles I used. They add up, and feel like a lot of nickel-and-diming to get the full capabilities of the system.
  
  
• provide (and for this I'd accept it being an optional, extra cost upgrade) a small display that could be plugged in to the Grom unit, with a pass-through for the currently existing wires, that would be used to display song or incoming call information. I'd think this is something that could be done easily using something like a Raspberry Pi, but I'm not a software dev, don't know anything about writing device drivers, and wouldn't know how to fabricate the hardware necessary to plug in to the existing hardware plugs. But conceptually it seems reasonable, and it seems to me that Grom already has the engineers that would know how to do this. I wish it existed.
  
  ==============
  ==============
  
  
  Within the last week I learned of two competing products that I am seriously considering for another car I own.
  
  

1. the iSimple BluHF.
   https://www.amazon.com/iSimple-Hands-Free-Calling-Streaming-Smartphones/dp/B00FRU5UNA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521602988&sr=8-1&keywords=isimple+bluetooth&dpID=41nW9mERuUL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
   
   This is a similar product to the Grom, but instead of plugging in to the CD port of the stereo and impersonating the CD changer it uses the FM antenna port and sends its output through the stereo's FM receiver. To use it you switch your radio to a predetermined FM frequency.
   
   I suspect this would be more reliable than Grom's method, at least with the 2004 Mazda stereo.
   
   
   
2. The Parrot MKI 9200.
   https://www.amazon.com/Parrot-MKi9200-Advanced-Bluetooth-Hands-Free/dp/B001IA3SZ0/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Mazda%7C80&Model=Miata%7C1110&Year=1996%7C1996&ie=UTF8&n=1077068&s=car&vehicleId=2&vehicleType=automotive
   
   I like the Parrot unit a lot. It looks like it would be great, and I'm willing to shell out the $$$ for it. It actually inserts itself between the stereo and the speaker wires themselves, so it will work regardless of what source you're listening to - doesn't matter if you're listening to the radio, a CD, etc...
   
   My concern with the Parrot though is that I see many reviews that state it worked great for 6 months - 2 years, and then crapped out, and the company provided horrible service when that occurred. So I'm reluctant to get one of these.
   
   Hope the above helps you decide what you do going forward.
   
   

Sure: My HIDs are actually the Kensun 35W 4300K kit, just because I wanted it to look stock-ish. Pretty happy with the result, kit was $50 and I bought a decent relay kit off of eBay for $10 or so. You can read up on how LEDs work with our housings, some say not to, others say it's fine with the right ones, but I'll leave that to your opinion.

So these are the DRL bezels themselves, you'll notice there's no fog lights in them. The same company also sells this set of bezels with only a chrome trim, but with the fogs. I ordered both (~$50 each pair) and swapped the fogs into the DRL bezels. Since I was adding fogs to a car without them, I also ordered the OEM turn signal lever/headlight/fog light switch. All 6's in this year range have the wiring for the fogs already down at the bezel, just not hooked up on cars not equipped with them. Other than an add-a-circuit for hooking up the DRLs, there's no other wiring needed.

For install, you'll need 2 hours or less. Mine took a little longer because I was trying to do as little work as possible (pro-tip: goes faster if you just do it fully).

Jack the car up and take both front wheels off (one at a time is fine if you can't) and remove the wheel well liner all the way down to where it meets the middle under-engine cover. The bezel covers (or fog bezels, if yours is already equipped with them) come out by pressing on 4 or 5 plastic clips, and they slide right out. The new bezels go back in the same way with a pretty good fit.

The OEM fog light plug goes onto your fog lights themselves (naturally), and the DRL connector will be connected to the harness that comes with the DRL bezels. Install both sides, then drop the wiring harness from the top of the engine bay down to the driver side, around the fuse box compartment. I also pulled down the under-engine cover and tucked the connection for the passenger side above it to keep it out of the way.

You can use an add-a-circuit in the fuse box on anything that will turn on and stay on when the car is running. If you use the original DRL circuit, the DRLs will turn off when your headlights come on. I used a multi-meter to test this, but from my reading some have put the add-a-circuit onto the audio or "MONITOR2" fuses. I chose MONITOR2 for ease of install and cleanliness.

That's really about all it takes, pretty painless and turns out pretty decent. They're not horribly bright and they add a little character. I put them in Friday, drove to the store Saturday and parked next to a '16 GT and the driver asked what trim level I had that got me the DRLs!

I had a 2016 GT I traded for a 2018 Signature with the white interior. On my 2016 GT I learned real quick that the piano black inserts (as footparth2206 mentioned) scratch all to heck, especially if you lay sunglasses straddling the shifter. So on my new one (I've had the signature for a year) I am SUPER extra careful. I baby my vehicles but that, the white leather and ultrasuede dash and door panels, and the strange dash material scare me a bit. I have a couple of scuff marks (that the DEALER did!) on the dash that won't seem to come off. But I found that Dr. Beasley's interior cleaner helps more than anything. So I might suggest you give that a try. And as far as the piano black inserts, I found that regular microfiber cloths are even too abrasive. I first use a can of air to get the top layer of dust off.Then I use Chemical Guys Happy Ending edgeless microfiber cleaning towels (buy on Amazon). They have no edges or seams and are extra soft. I don't use any type of cleaner at all. Hope this info helps!


Chemical Guys: https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC35103-Edgeless-Microfiber/dp/B0102GRWM0/ref=sr_1_10?crid=W73UYSP30SRW&keywords=chemical+guys+microfiber&qid=1561988141&s=automotive&sprefix=chemical+guys+micro%2Caps%2C152&sr=1-10


Dr. Beasley's: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00506BC0Q/ref=twister_B00GMD0BYY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Got them on Amazon for $45, got the Mazda light stalk on Amazon as well for $40. The install was even easier than I thought it would be. Passenger side took a little longer cuz the wiper fluid reservoir is in the way. I put in some yellow LED bulbs for fun.
I know it's been posted a few times already but for anyone like myself new to Mazda:

Stalk:
Mazda Genuine BALN-66-122 Fog Light Switch w/Auto Headlights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LCGQGRC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GMjyCbMKBY53R

Fog lamps:
iJDMTOY Complete Set Fog Lights Foglamp Kit with Halogen Bulbs, Wiring On/Off Switch and Garnish Bezel Covers For 2014-2016 Mazda 6 (Excluding Mazda6 Grand Touring Trim) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018GXA8CM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kPjyCbXDHWFCB

H11 Yellow LED:
Alla Lighting Super Bright H11 LED Fog Lights 2000 Lumens High Power 3030-SMD LED H11 3000K Yellow H11LL H8LL H8 H16 H11 LED Bulb H11 Yellow Fog Lights Lamp Bulbs Replacement w/Projector (Set of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N67FMQ5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WPjyCb7S2DAHS

Agree on the LED kit. I also installed a short shift kit and shifter bushings from CorkSport. The latter is kind of overpriced, but the short shift kit is excellent and the installation instructions were crystal clear.

1. This only works if you have a 2016 or up with the control knob, but not navigation already. https://m.ebay.com/itm/2018-2014-Mazda-Navigation-SD-Card-0000-8F-Z09C-Mazda-3-Mazda-6-CX-5-CX-3-CX-9/272910144287?epid=547386152&hash=item3f8ab6531f:g:N4sAAOSwrRlZpV69
   
   
2. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F182274109694
   
   and
   
   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008Z0Y63Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_l0KaAb6YFCMSR
   
   
3. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JNHZ0QA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_vZKaAbQRFR057
   
   I also have 7mm spacers on the front and 20mm spacers with extended lugs on the rears, beefier rear sway bar, and a strut tower brace. Spacers and strut tower brace are honestly just for looks, I do notice a bit of a difference with the sways.

Griot's Garage products have served me well. I use their Interior Cleaner and Leather Care Spray. Links are below.

Leather Care Spray: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00469KZY2/

Interior Cleaner: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IUE5S7I/

Once a month or so, I use the Interior Cleaner on EVERYTHING, then follow up with the Leather Care Spray on the steering wheel, shift knob, and seats.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006FKAHFM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_a6FYCbTM1M7VV

I had a bit of free time today and I happened to find it pretty quick.

Heres the dash kit
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_003MAZK860/American-International-MAZK860-Dash-Kit-Painted-silver-black.html

Remember you’re not going to use those side plastic pieces. You’ll have a better fit using the metal ones already on the stock radio

Honestly the OEM one is amazing. Fits perfect and it keep a lot of heat out (coming from a guy living in Tucson, AZ).

https://www.amazon.com/Mazda-Genuine-0000-8M-H30-Windshield-Sunscreen/dp/B00B1I19U0/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=maazda+6+sunshade&qid=1563153452&s=automotive&sr=1-1-spell

Worth a shot to try finding a key fob online somewhere. Ebay, Amazon, Etc. Then take the car to a locksmith and tell them to re-sync the newly bought key fob to your car. My wife did this and the locksmith charged like $90 or something, still cheaper than dealer, right?

Just get a set of wire taps. They are safer than wrapping a wire around a fuse

https://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-3MBTT-T-Tap-Connector/dp/B001JT72D4

Well on my 06 the bose headunit has a plug for satellite radio that you can buy an adapter for on amazon to convert it into an aux port. Not sure if your year has that or not.

https://www.amazon.com/Goliton-3-5mm-Connect-iPhone-Player/dp/B006FFCONA

I totally gutted the blose system from my car minus the headunit. Speaker blew out and would’ve cost $150 to replace, or $300 for aftermarket everything

I did the H11 to H9 conversion (on youtube, literally just cutting off a little tab) and my lighting problems were solved

​

How to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sY1kaMRVz8o

Bulbs i used that work really well and cheap: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003YMPN3A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[this is what I used for connecting auxillary in] (https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B006FFCONA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gv55Ab012FSMZ) the stock radio should have the same connectors on the back for either a 6cd player or satellite radio.


After connecting this you could get a higher quality Bluetooth reciever to plug into the auxillary input, and the cable is long enough to reach wherever you would want it to go. However, unless it plugs into your lighter socket, you most likely will have to turn the Bluetooth reciever on when you turn your car on.

Fog lights: H11 I believe.

Plastic trim piece: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018GXA8CM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Light stalk: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AWO7XOK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Will This cup holder mount work?

Metra 95-7522B Double DIN Dash... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ABTV4QE?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Metra Electronics 40-HD10 Factory... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K4YOCG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Metra Electronics 70-7903 Wiring... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BEVXY?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Here you go. Ten seconds of googling found this:
https://www.amazon.com/PAC-RP4-MZ11-Replacement-Steering-Interface/dp/B0095UH3O2

Appears to be a box that will retain the steering wheel controls for use with an aftermarket stereo.

This is what should work with your car.

GROM-AUX adapter digital audio interface:

http://www.amazon.com/Android-Bluetooth-capable-Adapter-Interface/dp/B006TKFZ82/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1404710420&sr=8-4&keywords=mazda+6+aux

You need these things and to remove the radio real quick which is not hard (find a YouTube video)

Adapter

Kinivo BTC450 Bluetooth Car Kit (Hands-Free Car Adapter, Bluetooth to 3.5mm Aux Adapter,Apt-X) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NLTW60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dxioDbVM3C12N


Aux cord kit

Goliton AUX 3.5mm Cable Connect iPod iPhone MP3 Phone Audio to Mazda Car Player (2 Meter Long) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006FFCONA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OxioDbYJ4RWJE


Ground Loop Isolator (also is female to female so you can plug the BT kit into the aux which are both male plugs)

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UyioDbT8PYX2B

No need to search--this is what I bought.

https://www.amazon.com/CURT-18050-Bike-Support-Strap/dp/B003721CC8