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Alright, no offense to the first commenter but we need to clearly define what we are talking about.
There isn't an "impact driver drill" I believe your talking about something like this that is a cordless electric 1/4" impact driver. It accepts 1/4" hex driver bits notice the special cut out at the base of the bit, that's what keeps it from falling out. It functions like a drill/driver until it encounters sufficient resistance then it impacts, giving increased torque(rotational force), it does not produce a hammering force(along the axis of the bit).

Now this is an impact wrench it too functions like a drill/driver until it meets resistance then it impacts adding rotational force but not hammer force. What are the differences between this and the driver we looked at earlier? First is obviously size, the wrench is bigger, and stronger, and heavier. But that's not what makes it a different tool, what makes it different is the tip, it's a square, like for putting sockets on, in this case 1/2" sockets but they make 3/8", 1/4", 3/4" and much larger!

So could you use the first tool in place of the much larger second tool? Yes! Use one of these adapters

Here's the problem tho, the first tool, the driver, makes at most 117 ft-lbs, and I believe that's stretching, the second tool, the wrench, makes 700 ft-lbs. To remove a rusty, crusty, stubborn lugnut you will need the bigger badder tool, sometimes it still won't be enough, and you'll need a breaker bar with a cheater pipe.

Now what the other commenter mentioned, the hammering force, that can be made with a few different tools. Let's start with the handheld impact driver yes it's confusing, two different tools, both called impact drivers, but this one we'll call the handheld, you hold it with one hand, and hammer it with a hammer. It has a cam mechanism that takes some of that axial force and imparts a slight (like 1/16 of a turn) rotation. It's good for stuck screws especially Phillips heads.

Another, more common tool is the hammer drill it is essentially a drill, it grips with three jaws onto the same bits as our first impact driver, or onto completely round bits, like your common drill bits but when you engage the hammer mechanism it will push its chuck forward and back rapidly, and the pressure you apply to the back of the drill hammers the bit into the material your drilling, useful for concrete/masonary work. But for real drilling power into concrete you want an SDS rotary hammer drill this bad boy only accepts SDS bits, provides it's own rotary and axial forces and will drill thru reinforced concrete like non reinforced butter.

Ok I think that about covers it, if anyone would like to add on I'd appreciate it. And remember:

Always use the right tool for the job, a hammer is the right tool for every job, and every tool can be used as a hammer!


Obviously that was sarcasm.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/96-97-98-99-00-RAV-4-STEERING-FLUID-RESERVOIR-44360-42011-/181897384256

http://www.amazon.com/Toyota-44360-42011-Power-Steering-Reservoir/dp/B00KTGYBIM

http://www.trdshop.com/oe-toyota/4436042011

http://www.toyotapart.com/44360-42011.html

The Toyota part number is 44360-42011.

Hope these help.

I did some googlin' and this appears to be a common issue.

• The Bad News - The root cause is an internal transmission seal that dries up and shrinks thereby preventing proper pressure buildup. Probably a $4.00 part, but you have to tear down the tranny to replace it.
  
  
• The Possibly Good News - Some people have corrected the issue using a product called Trans-X.
  
  Source