Top products from r/minipainting

We found 307 product mentions on r/minipainting. We ranked the 954 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/minipainting:

u/totally_just_bob · 3 pointsr/minipainting

Been painting a few years and lurking here forever, here's my advice:

> Mixing Brush: I am told that you should not mix paint with your primary brushes. Where can I buy a cheap brush for mixing, and anything special I need?

If I'm already using a "larger" brush (1 or higher) I'll mix with my good brushes and just be mindful of how far up the ferrule I am or use the back of the brush. If I'm using a detail brush I'll use a super cheap synthetic 2 or 3. Look on amazon or at a local art chain (Michaels) for cheap student grade packs of round brushes. You'll end up using these for terrain, PVA glue, and all sorts of other things.

> More Brushes: My kit came with a 2 flat and 0 round. What other brushes will I need, and what in your opinion is a good brand to buy? Any set that covers all the basics? Although I am new to painting, I'd like something that will last me and be quality. They sell SoHo brushes in my local store, which look like they are great quality. Any users here?

This topic can get pretty involved. Brushes have a lifespan so if you're new to the hobby I wouldn't recommend dropping money on higher end Kolinsky brushes like W&N Series 7 or daVinci Maestro. For a new painter I recommend Winsor & Newton's University series and Army Painter's Wargamer brushes. The W&N University brushes are higher than average student quality acrylic brushes that can be abused. They're great for basecoating with thicker mixes. The Wargamer brushes are a cheap intro into real sable hair so you can get started at layering with thinned paints.

> Primers: This is a big ? for me --- Spray primers, basic black white and grey? Which ones, what brand, etc... Really unsure what is recommended here, as in a store there are so many, but hoping /r/minipainting can help as we are all painting the same stuff. Would love some specific product recommendations here.

For the most part, you have three options: spray cans, brush-on, and airbrush. I can't really recommend spray primers - they require ventilation, have trouble with humidity, and can only be sprayed at one consistency. Many of the hobby spray cans advertised for basing your minis aren't actual primers. Brush-on primers are the most economical but run the risk of losing detail on the mini if applied heavily. Airbrushing is my preferred method using either Mr. Hobby's Mr. Surfacer 1500 thinned with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner for highly detailed minis, or Vallejo Primer for tabletop quality minis. Vallejo Primer's are acrylic and polyurethane so they're more protective but can sometimes take away detail.

> Finish: I saw a few videos where they spray some 'protective' finish on a product, I believe there are matte finishes as well as gloss finishes? Can I get any 'matte/gloss finish' product, or are there certain ones for miniatures?

Same three options as priming. If your minis are going to be handled often, I recommend a glossy coat then a matte coat. Glossy varnishes are stronger than matte varnishes, so this combo will give you the most protection. You are more likely to lose some detail this way. If your minis are for display only you can skip the varnish and just be careful. Dried acrylics are basically thin plastic so they have some durability on their own. Brand-wise I airbrush using Liquitex Professional gloss and matte varnishes, thinned with Vallejo airbrush thinner and a drop or two of Vallejo flow-improver. Vallejo varnishes are also good but Liquitex offers the best bang for your buck.

> Mini Holders: I found this product which looks amazing, but is not available until late 2017 since the Kickstarter has ended. Are there any similar products that someone could recommend, or should I just go with something very simple? Would love to hear some ideas.

I use an old Citadel paint pot and white poster tack to stick to the bottom of the base. If you want to paint individual parts, heat the tip of a needle/pin with a lighter, press it gently into the glue joint of the mini (the hole will be hidden later), then press the other side of the needle into a wine cork or similar.

> Brush Care: I got a "masters" paste from a store that I was told to rinse and swirl my brushes in after painting. Any other tips or is this okay?

Master's is the best option, just make sure you follow the directions and use warm water for best results. You can also get a small bottle of W&N Brusher Cleaner and Restorer to have on reserve if you accidentally let paint dry on one of your better brushes. If it's a cheap or synthetic brush you can clean it with original Windex (WITHOUT Ammonia-D) or Vallejo airbrush cleaner, followed by a wash with Master's.

> Carving/Scraping tools: I know some minis need to be cut from a sheet and some have mold lines that need to be cleaned. How is this done and what tools are needed?

Get a decent pair of sprue cutters - I recommend these. You should be able to find these for $10 at a local hobby store. For plastic minis you should be fine with just an X-acto or similar knife for getting rid of mold lines - just run the blade mostly perpendicular to the line and "shave" it gently.

> Storage Box: For all the little things that come along with painting, what do you use/recommend to store everything in?

A coffee mug works fine as a brush holder. You can try a hardware store for all sorts of containers if you're traveling with paints. Otherwise desk space and some imagination (spice racks) or money (official paint stand) are all you need.

> Paint Agitators: I was told to get some steel balls and put them in every paint bottle I have. It's okay to leave them in there. Would these work, or any concerns?

Please do not use steel ball bearings. You can attempt to buy "marine grade" ball bearings but unless it's reputable and expensive they are still likely going to rust and ruin your paint. I use hematite beads for necklaces for my paints. 4mm for dropper bottles and 6mm for pots. You can get them cheaper at Michaels w/ a coupon and they're inert so they won't stain your paints.

> Flow Improver: Thoughts? I was told to mix this into my washes. How much should I add, one drop? Is this product okay, or is this only for airbrushing?

Flow improver is generally used for airbrushing to extend the drying time and prevent clogs. Fluid retarder in the form of actual art supply from W&N or Liquitex, Vallejo's Glaze Medium, or Games Workshop's Lahmian Medium are what you're looking for. These can all be used to turn a normal paint into a wash (heavy dilution), or can be used to extend drying time for wet blending (light dilution). I can't give you exact ratios as each paint company, each color, and the age of your paints will dictate that. Trial and error is the only method here.

One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet is a wet palette. It will save you a lot of headache when learning to wet blend and will let you save mixed paints for many days. You can get one for cheap and use either the papers that come with it or kitchen parchment paper. Both will yield different results so play around with both. Be sure to use distilled water or you're likely to get some funk from mold after a couple days.

u/unforgivablenope · 2 pointsr/minipainting

If you're in a tight budget, it's best to go to Micheals and take advantage of their coupons. Depending on the store, some will take multiple coupons at once and use their competitors' coupons but be sure to check/read their restrictions. And check out your local game workshop and ask if they do deals. Sometimes, they can give you a discount.

For the brushes, there is only one size everyone uses and that's size 1. The best brush brands you can use are Artists Loft and Royal & Langnickel. Keep in mind that when you go to the store, be sure to read what the brushes are for. There are three types: watercolor, oils, and acrylics. Get the acrylic brushes! Those are your best friends when you paint minis. Also, watch out for specialty brushes. Those have animal hairs that are used for specific paint styles and are high maintenance to keep clean. You can learn about those special brushes here and learn the different types of brushes here.

The paints you are using are really watered down so the results will be quite messy and unpleasant to look at but you can make neat textures with them so keep them. The best paints to use are Winsor & Newton (acrylic & oils), Artist Loft (acrylic & oils), Golden (acrylic & oils), Citadel (acrylic), and/or Vallejo (acrylic). Read the labels of your paints before purchasing! People these days do not put the paint back so they are often mixed up. So, for the time being, to make things easier for you is to try out Reaper Miniatures or Army Painter. These brands have good starter kits when you are in a strict budget.

The only thing I would have done differently if I were a beginner would be the research. Before I buy anything, I research which materials are best suited for my projects, look into stores on what kind of discounts I can get from them, list what interests me, and compare prices. It's a pain to do but it's worth the money. The best advice I can give you as a long-time painter is to experiment and practice. The more you do, the more you learn. Even though it may take forever to finish, the experience you went through will help you figure out which technique is worth doing. Remember, you are the painter, do what's easier for you! Sometimes, you don't need pricy things to make your projects look good. It's all in technique and patience.

u/Buy_The-Ticket · 3 pointsr/minipainting

It's not so much about a small brush but a brush with a good point. A small brush like a 00 can be problematic because the paint dries very quickly. The best for minis is a Kolinsky Sable brush in a #1 or #2 size. Windsor Newton series 7s are really nice bit they are expensive. for a great alternative at like a 3rd of the price check out Rosemary and co series 33 brushes

Almost identical to series 7 bit way cheaper and they hold a perfect point for like ever. I'd say try a #1 and a #2 and see if that helps. The belly of the brush is large so it will hold a good amount of paint and will stay wet and the point is ultra fine for great details. Also get a jar of masters brush cleaner.

The stuff is great and one jar will last forever and your brushes will last a lot.longer then without it. Hope that helps and good luck!

u/Chris_Parker · 10 pointsr/minipainting

Hey OP, this is where I started: the Reaper Bones Core Skills set.

It has 3 figures, 2 brushes, about a dozen paints, and a booklet that gives you instructions and tips on how to get acquainted with the hobby. It's only $30, doesn't take a ton of space, and has pretty decent paints (brushes are like bare minimum to work, but that works because you're just getting started).

There's another kit called Layer Up! that comes with new brushes, paints, and figures, and teaches some more advanced techniques as well, so the "next step" is there waiting for you whenever you want to branch out.

I'd also grab maybe a wine cork, thread/yarn spool, or something that fits nice in your hand, plus some cheapo poster tack to help you hold a figure. The Reaper figures are supposed to be made in such a way that they don't require primer, but I still wash the minis with dish soap and a toothbrush and prime them anyway (I like Vallejo primers).

The best advice I can probably give is be patient not just with the work you do, but with yourself as well. The idea of the hobby is to have fun, create stuff, and enjoy the process/output. It doesn't have to look perfect your first go, nor should it. Give yourself the opportunity to improve and keep it relaxed.

If you've got any other questions on starting out or anything, feel free to hit me up.

u/Corvuspretanicus · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Hey there! I got into painting based on the board games I was picking up that came with plastic miniatures. This was a good starting place as the figures aren't super detailed and adding any paint to them seemed to make them better than standard board game pieces.

If the art side if things is more of the draw then I would suggest checking out a starter kit. There are a few "starter kits" out there that are good because they give you the basic necessities to jump into painting without spending tons of money.

I saw a couple good looking kits on Amazon. Here is a DND specific one:

The Army Painter Dungeons and Dragons Official Paint Line Adventurer's Paint Set

Or here is a generic fantasy one:
Reaper Miniatures 08906 Learn To Paint Bones Kit

I think I'd recommend the second one as it comes with a couple different figures and seems like it's ready to go right out of the box.

One cool thing about painting miniatures is that it is as complicated or as simple as you'd like. There are some great tutorial videos on YouTube to teach the basics. I learned from Sorastros painting tutorials. He does a good job of showing you the basics to get a decent looking figure and then gives you extra steps if you are extremely detailed or want to go to the next level.

As others have mentioned you can get sets of figures to paint from reapers miniatures website. Or if there is a board game out there with a theme your son likes, it may be a good place to start as most games come with 15-30 miniatures with different sizes. Including bigger monsters which can be really fun to paint. Plus you then have a fun game in which to use your art project.

Mice and mystics is a fun family cooperative game with tiny anthropomorphic mice fighting fantasy battles similar to the redwall books. I painted the figures from those and had a great time with the painting and the game.

Some other good ones are Descent 2nd edition and Starwars Imperial assault. Both come with great miniatures but are a little complex on rules and need one player to be the big bad overlord playing against the heroes.

There is also a series of dungeons and dragons board games that are cooperative and come with lots of miniatures. The quality of these isn't very high but those were my first figures.

If you want to go "whole hog" you could purchase one of the "Warhammer age of sigmar" starter boxes. These miniatures are extremely detailed and actually require you to assemble them from several pieces. They don't come with paint inused but there are entire paint kits to go along with them. Some folks really enjoy putting the GW models together, then priming and painting them. These aren't cheap so it might be best to start elsewhere but you get a lot of figures in the box. I will warn you the theme is fairly dark. Lots of blood and skulls.

Best of luck and I hope you guys enjoy!

u/balefrost · 2 pointsr/minipainting
  1. Yes, I suggest using a primer. I've been using acrylic gesso, and it works reasonably well, but I'm still searching for something better. The primer will ideally give your paint something stronger to stick to, and it can also set the overall color "tone" of the mini. If you're painting a light color, you want to prime in a light color. If you're painting a dark mini, use a dark primer. Or just use grey for everything.

  2. I liked this video
    > "Your paint should be transparent enough to where you can actually see through it."

    He then goes on to say that your paint should be thinned such that you can paint over a newspaper and still read the words after the paint has dried.

    Paint thinning is just one of those skills you need to develop. And the only way to do that is to paint.

  3. I usually mix a family of colors to get the shade I want, but this is where you need to play around and get a feel for your paints. Try mixing all kinds of things. It's worth noting that wet acrylic paints are usually a shade lighter than dry paint... so you might need to add more lightening agent than you would think.

    Be careful when highlighting red. To me, orange-ish highlights look correct, but pinkish highlights typically look wrong. It probably depends on the particular piece, but I've almost always seen people highlight red with orange. Other colors should highlight fine by mixing white.

  4. You probably want a variety of sizes. Unfortunately, as I understand it, sizes are not consistent across manufacturers. I have some Windsor and Newton #000 through #2 brushes... I think I use the #1 the most, followed by the #00. You generally want to use the largest brush that you can use for the thing you're painting (don't use a tiny brush for basecoating... it will take forever and it will wear the brush faster).

    You want to get above a certain threshold of brush quality, but after that you'll encounter diminishing returns. Avoid cheapo, "kid-quality", dollar store brushes. Those will just let you down. You want a brush that will hold a point and will hold onto its bristles - it's really frustrating when a brush sheds bristles into wet paint on your mini. I suspect that any "student quality" or above brush will be fine. I would avoid hog's hair brushes for mini painting - hog's hair is pretty stiff. A decent synthetic brush is probably what you want. I splurged when I got started (at the suggestion of some Youtuber) and picked up a set of Windsor and Newton Series 7, Kolinsky Sable brushes. I like them a lot. They're expensive (Amazon shows them about $10 - $15 each). But they should last a long time if you take care of them.

    Speaking of which, get some brush soap. That should keep your brushes alive longer.

    One final piece of advice - paint! When I got started, I watched tons of YouTube videos, I tried to copy other people's techniques. I turned it into a science. Doing those things isn't bad (YouTube especially is FULL of great tips), but at the end of the day, the best way to learn is to fail. Get painting and you will see your skills improve before your very eyes.
u/Doc_Serious · 1 pointr/minipainting

As you improve in the hobby you will find yourself using bigger brushes. A size 2 or even a 3 with a good point will serve you better than anything 0 or smaller. Even for most detail.

It's not the size of the brush you use, but the size and shape of the point. I found this myself through experience as I started off painting with the smallest brush I could but the problems you run into using a small brush are threefold :

Paint dries before you can get it on the model, leading to clumps of pigment instead of smooth coats.

Small brushes tend to more easily leave brush strokes showing on your model, especially on flat areas.

Models just take longer to paint, less finished models = slower improvement :)

Sounds like you are heading in the right direction though, next up treat yourself to some brush soap for example: General Pencil The Master's Brush Cleaner & Preserver-1oz

Your brushes will thank you :)

Finally and most importantly, feel free to disregard any advice you may get and just dive in and go your own way. The most important thing about the hobby is to have fun and enjoy it!

u/Blackbird0084 · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Personally, I find this as a great "thank you" for fellow mini painters, as it's relatively cheap and has been something that the two people (massive numbers here...) Who I know, that paint, have never heard of.

Paints- as above- down to your choice. I do like gw paints but the pots are shite and I find there's a lot of wastage, which isn't any fault of mine. That said, it's probably been designed that way so that gw can milk more revenue out of us. I have a lot of love for the Vallejo range, I find their textured stuff to be far better, and far more varied than the gw range. To be honest I'm not a big fan of the army painter range, but do use a few of their rattle cans.

Brushes- again, you'll pay through the arse for gw products.. (notice a theme?). I understand a number of pro painters (Sam Lenz springs to mind) who use pretty "standard" cheap brushes to get phenomenal results.

If you have a look on YouTube there's a huge amount of channels dedicated to the hobby and offering detailed analysis of paint brands, brushes etc. Miniac is a great start.

Hope this helps, just my two pence :)

u/Apollo_3_14 · 1 pointr/minipainting

I would say that you would only really see benefits with a higher quality air compressor if you've already got your skill using an airbrush really dialed in until then a cheaper airbrush would really suffice. I'll entirely honest I've only been airbrushing my miniatures for a couple of months now but I've had the honor of using my friends high quality compressor but I've also been using my cheap Master Compressor. If i'm being entirely honest with you at my skill level I can't even tell the slightest difference between the two. My much more skilled friend can notice a huge difference between the two compressors but again, he's been airbrushing for almost five years. Now for a beginner I am using a slightly nicer airbrush, I'm using the Iwata HP-CS. I was recommended by him that I get the nicer airbrush and the cheaper air-compressor because the fine detail work that you're almost constantly doing with miniatures, he argued that the airbrush would have much higher returns per dollar than the more expensive air-compressor. I hope that helped a little. Take that all with a grain of salt because Like I said before I'm new and these are just my personal observations.

u/chaos_47 · 4 pointsr/minipainting

While this is generally considered good advice given here for a true "no experience" beginner you can get away with cheaper brushes.
IMO these brushes work great and are an excellent value at 4 bucks. And you will get a variety of useful sizes. (If you look for them in store they now have black handles, not blue)
(And yes I know this isn't an amazon purchase like OP wanted but its a great value)

Its probably better to pick up primer and sealer locally too. You could probably get both at Walmart.. I use Krylon COVERMAXX Acrylic Crystal Clear Flat sealer. But I like to use Duplicolor Sandable Primer so I get that at the automotive store.

IMO I would not buy a palette either. It's really easy to make a wet palette out of things from the dollar store or from around the house that will serve you better then an artists palette.

Reapers MSP and Citadel paints are not well represented on Amazon.. but Vallejo and Army Painter paints are..

Reaper does have their Learn to Paint kit on Amazon:

If your not sure that mini painting is going to be your thing you may just want to start with (diluted) craft paint anyways... but purpose made miniature paint really does have its advantages.

Sorry I know I haven't been much help on what to buy on Amazon but hopefully this will give you an idea on what to avoid

u/wcfore01 · 1 pointr/minipainting

So I'll give you a link to a list that you may find useful for checking all the boxes on what you may need. I'll post my opinions below on some of the stuff I have found is most important. (I went through this process about 2-3 months ago)

I LOVE this hobby knife Very important for removing mold lines, cutting off flash, etc. Very important to get one that starts and stays sharp

Primer is incredibly important. You want to make a suitable surface for your paint to adhere to. I would also look up some articles about how to prime. Contrary to popular belief you don't want the entire model to be the color of your prime when you are done! You want it to look almost speckled and have about 80% coverage.

Paint Here is a decent starter box of citadel paint, with a box and some 1/2 decent brushes. Obviously this is a bit pricey, but you get 45 paints plus some helpful extras

Brush Cleaner VITALLY important. Keeps paint out of the ferrule and helps your brushes stay conditioned and pointed

Brushes I just got a Winsor and Newton Series 7 #00, #1 and #2....WOW the difference between these and synthetic brushes is night and day. Painting tasks that seemed to take forever or require too much of a steady hand are MUCH easier now

Dull Cote Matte Spray Essential for providing a matte finish and protection to be able to actually use your minis. This product is excellent for that

Obviously there are many more items that are important to have that are described in more detail in that link I provided. But the ones above are the ones I would consider most essential

u/ardajoceleri · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I used the Pathfinder Battles Deep Cuts Female Dwarf Summoner mini because it was the only female dwarf at my FLGS and it was inexpensive. I will say if you've never bought this brand/type, the detail shown in the picture online is far above and beyond the actual mini, and I assume the pic is a computer render. This may already be obvious to y'all, I dunno!

Anyway, I sliced her hands/spell effects off at the wrist with a utility knife and sculpted new hands from Apoxie Sculpt, leaving a hole through one fist to fit the axe I sculpted. I also added a beard, because I love lady dwarfs with beards, and trimmed a little off her head as well so it could fit the dragon skull I sculpted too. Wasn't sure what to put in her other hand but ended up cutting off a generic monster head from one of many cheap baddie minis I had, just so she'd look extra badass, I suppose. (I think I should not have used generic super glue to attach the monster head though, as it left a white film and ended up falling off anyway.) I also trimmed a little away of the base so she could sit on her new mount, a huge polar bear (for the Mammoth Rider Pathfinder prestige class).

I painted everything with this super basic starter set of Army Painter paints. I intended the colors to be pretty neutral and natural, because the character makes a lot of her own gear from animal hides, bones, etc. Didn't really know what I was doing, so tips are appreciated, but be gentle :) I used almost the cheapest mini and paints I could find because I was afraid I would be terrible and end up wasting money on a hobby that I would suck at. It turned out better than I expected though, and inspired me to want to paint my Heroforge mini too. Any suggestion for the next (not too expensive) tool/paint/whatever I should get?

u/ice_09 · 1 pointr/minipainting

Just to add my 2 cents - I also have the Iwata HP-CS and absolutely love it. My close friend has the Badger Sotar that Miniac uses and loves his airbrush as well. You really can't go wrong with either of them. My only additional recommendation is to invest in an air-compressor that has a dedicated tank. I use this one and it has been awesome for the last two years. The tank helps eliminate any pulsating pressure and allows for a more consistent experience. Its not super important, but what kind of miniatures does your husband paint and what does he plan on painting with the airbrush? One thing to keep in mind while you look at airbrushes is the needle sizes of the unit - they can be changed, but the one that comes with it does play a role in how the airbrush behaves. The Iwata comes with a .35 mm needle while the Sotar can be found with needles ranging from .19 mm to .31 mm. The .19 mm needle is much finer and is better for precision work. I think the .35 is a great "all around" size, but if he plans on doing a lot of small details, he may find it a bit too large.

An airbrush is a great gift! I know I use mine all the time!

u/Cursed989 · 1 pointr/minipainting

I'm a big fan of Army Painter products. I've had pretty good luck with them so I'm kind of slanted towards them. So I recommend...

1- a set of these brushes.

2- Any of the Army Painter primers are good. But this is my favorite. Coats and covers well. Also works for a lot of different models.

3- A set of these have come in handy for me several times.

4- These clear bases are my favorite. I've rebased several figures with these. Love them for there ability to show the terrain the figure is standing on.

5- And a cheap basecoat sized brush for mixing paints and brushing on quickshades.

This is obviously just my opinion. But I hope it helps.

u/Heretic_Tom · 6 pointsr/minipainting

I find this light to be very effective, not to mention pretty cheap, and I like that it has a few different "temperatures" of light and has more than enough flexibility for me to get it in just the right spot.


I also rely heavily on this head magnifier as my vision isn't what it once was. It's super cheap and works great.


I find that Army Painter brushes work really well and cost much less than most of the other brushes I like. I particularly like their detail brushes. I don't think I could paint eyes without my beloved "The Psycho" brush.


I love this light box. Also very cheap (noticing a trend, I'm always looking for a deal, lol). These acrylic display boards fit nicely inside the light box and give photos a cool, polished look.

u/Probably_Not_Evil · 3 pointsr/minipainting

This Army Painter starter set is your best bet. It has Black, White, 3 primary colors, green, a flesh tone, a good brown, steel metallic(you can add colors to it of you want the metal to look a different color), and Strong tone wash(actually my favorite wash, period). Even comes with an okay detail brush.

If you want purple and orange. You can pick up any brand you want and it'll work just fine with these paints. Citadel is usually the easiest to find if you have gaming shop nearby. Or if you have a hobby lobby, they sell Vallejo model paints. They're good. Other brands that come to mind. Reaper, P3, Secret Weapon, and Scale 75. All good.

So all you'd need to get is a primer of your choice. And a decent brush, here's a decent brush set. And probably want to get a good matte varnish. Most people recommend Testors dull coat. But if you want brush on. Vallejo matte varnish is a good alternative. All in all you could easily be under $50.

Miniac's video on how to take care of your brushes

u/CSMHowitzer0 · 3 pointsr/minipainting

Hey OP, you specifically need brush soap. Also for some really gunky brushes you can get some brush restorer. The first is a soap made specifically for paint brushes and the restorer is a clear liquid that can help get paint that is caught in the ferrule. The restorer is great. I bought a set of helping hands and I've revived some really old brushes by just letting them sit in there for a few hours. Winsdor and Newton make the restorer.

Anyways, brush soap is ideal for holding the bristles firm and to help remove paint from between the fibers. You definitely need to get some. Even if you still go through brushes like mad this is just proper brush-hygiene. My cleaning process is to at least clean every brush I used at the end of every painting session. I also clean them when I move to a totally different color (e.g. blues to reds). "The Masters" is a good and very popular brush soap and I also oddly like the scent Amazon Link.

Cheers, PS: Make sure you get the soap wet before you start swiping the brush all up on it. ;)
Edit: PSS: Do not stick your brush in restorer fluid past the ferrule. It will eat away the glue binding everything together and you will have ruined a brush.

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/minipainting

Not sure your price points but looking on Amazon this Army painter set is a great start to get a quantity of colors you would need and can add colors when you need to, there's also a $25usd kit with less paints but enough to get started.

For brushes I get this from Michaels as it had a lot of brush sizes for different things and starting out you don't need to buy expensive brushes.

This is a great brush cleaner and depending on the figures you decide to paint you need some tools so something like this kit would be easy to have everything in one go.

Did you have any minis in mind you were wanting to get started with? And welcome, I use painting for stress relief as well and it's easy when you have a figure and are just making them look good

u/kingvortigern · 2 pointsr/minipainting

A few questions, followed by some suggestions:

Do you use your Citadel paint right out of the bottle? You might lose some of that gloss if you dilute your paint, which is something nearly all good painters recommend. I used the Citadel paints right out of the bottle for years, without knowing that. Thin the paint to the consistency of milk, more or less.

Yes, you should use a sealer, absolutely. Yes it does protect the final finish, but judicious use of it can help in other ways. But a matte sealer is critical. You can spray the entire finished piece with matte sealer, but that can ruin some of your metallic finishes. What I sometimes do is finish the piece, spray the entire thing with one or two LIGHT coats (always) of matte sealer. Then if you have any pieces of armor, or glass, or anything that should be shiny, you can then apply gloss or satin sealer with a brush to those areas to those areas only to bring the shine back. But truly, the matte brush on sealer, (or matte paints) really adds to the "realism" of the piece.

Also get some "flow-aid" and add a drop to your shades and washes. It helps break up the surface tension and helps the paint move around into the crevices. Try

For an excellent spray matte sealer try this one. Been around for years and still one of the best flat finishes out there:

Finally, go to CMON and download this painting guide if you've got an extra 10 bucks laying around. Very good guide, even for the pro.

And don't forget to visit Sign up for his newsletter, he sends out free tutorials every week. Also check out his Youtube channel.

Keep it up, nice work!

u/PerfectTortilla · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I use gw paints, mainly because I just always have, and I'm used to them, but if you wanna use some better quality, most people recommend vallejo or army painter. You can get a pretty good start with a variety of colors for army painter on Amazon for a pretty good price.

And I know you didn't, but I use their brushes, this set is a good starting point.

u/Jushy79 · 1 pointr/minipainting

Honestly, those brushes should do just fine but I can’t guarantee it because I have never used them, imo 12 brushes seems a bit excessive but you do you. I bought the Army Painters Wargamers most wanted brush set . Honestly these have been the best for me, the insane detail brush is one of my all time favorites for detail and the regiment is great for any kind of base coating or medium-large size miniatures. The small drybrush is great for highlighting and (obviously) dry brushing if you’re into that (you should be).

u/Kikkenass · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Ok. Gonna throw out a couple of suggestions to get you started.

First get a starter paint set.

You can get them from the local hobby shops

A few of them come with the basic supplies you need to get started.

The following ones come with a small set of paints, a brush and a miniature to paint. Often they also come with step by step instructions or online videos to watch

Dungeons and Dragons Official Paint Line Adventurer's Paint Set

Dungeons and Dragons Official Paint Line Monsters Paint Set

Reaper Miniatures 08906 Learn To Paint Bones Kit

Reaper Miniatures Master Series Paints #09970 Starter Set for Mini Figures

The Army Painter Kings of War Undead Miniatures Paint Set - Highly Pigmented Acrylic Model Paint Set - 10 Miniature Paints in 18ml Dropper Bottles

The above links are only there to show you what to look for.

Citadel also has a great range of paints but they are generally more expensive and don’t come with brushes or models to paint

Please. Buy local and support our FLGS (Friendly Local Game Stores) They are the reason why so many people are into these hobby’s.

Take a little while and find a couple of Nolzurs or Reaper miniatures you like to paint. They are inexpensive and will be great pieces to start with.

However if your gonna look online Miniature Market currently is having their Black Friday sale

What ever route you’re choose let us know what you did and show us your completed work. There are a lot of super helpful people here

u/Donny_Ozymandias · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Yeah, I would recommend some decent synthetics while you're still learning the ropes. When you're a beginner, you can be unintentionally rough on your brushes and synthetics are cheap + fairly reliable, depending on what you get. Privateer Press makes some good ones: . Also, get some of this stuff, it will greatly extend the lifespan of your brushes: . Trust me, you'll want to learn good brush care early on, it'll be a lifesaver.

Once you've been at it a while, I would actually recommend the Winsor and Newton Series 7 line of brushes instead of those miniature brushes. If you're going to buy a Kolinsky sable brush, I would recommend a full sized one like the Series 7, which is the industry standard. The problem with those miniature brushes is like you said: they have a smaller tip and don't hold as much paint, which means more trips to the pot.

u/Kremak · 1 pointr/minipainting

One of the best purchases I have made in the painting arena has been my Winsor & Newton series 7 size 1 sable brush. Just make sure it is the standard one, not the miniature one as it will be way too small. It is large enough to hold a good amount of paint, good for large details (I would not use it for base coating large areas), and holds a very fine point great for small detail and I even use it for the fine edge highlighting. here is an amazon link for your information:

As for brush care pick up some masters brush cleaner and google a video for it, I do not have a specific one to share.

u/SuicidalKirby · 5 pointsr/minipainting

No airbrush 0/10 setup. :P

But I do see you have a discerning taste in reaper miniatures. I just painted of those guys myself.

One thing I would recommend strongly though is a good brush. I actually have that same set of brushes from hobby lobby and they are kinda garbage. Do yourself a favor and get a Windsor and Newton series 7 size #1. You can get one on amazon for about $13 link. It will be a world of difference.

Another good purchase is a wet palette, but far from necessary. Just keeps the paint from drying out too fast and wasting it. You can also make your own pretty easily if you are inclined. Oh, and a hobby knife like others said. Reapers have some pretty heavy mold lines, and you'll definitely need something to take care of those.

u/rlperez · 4 pointsr/minipainting these starter kits are pretty solid. That's how I got started on the air brushing fronteir. You'll also need to buy some air brush cleaner brushes that are like 60 cents or something on amazon and buy a bottle of green stuff house cleaner. That's pretty much the simplest cleaning set up that I've been using . Now if you paint single 28 mm minis, you really don't need an airbrush. Buuut if you get one, you'll probably crap yourself in joy and start getting larger sized models because they'll be so quick to paint! A decent starting kit goes between 80 and 90 bucks. The link I left you is for 76? And it's the same kit? I love amazon. This will also help you paint terrain if you're into that. Good luck!
One more thing. You might want to invest in airbrush paints. But if that isn't in your budget remember to thin whatever paints you use into a SKIM MILK consistency. That piece of advice no one told me for awhile. It's a bit crucial. Otherwise there's gonna be alooot of gunk in your gun.

u/Heathen92 · 1 pointr/minipainting

Just FYI but if you look on amazon Windsor and Newton series 7's are around $10.

They seem to have come up a bit in price over the holiday season but should be back down again soon. As others have said you can find some decent cheap brushes while you get used to painting but I wouldn't bother waiting too long before switching to the 7's. They're extremely resilient if you're caring for them appropriately. Make sure to pick up the brush cleaner/preserver from the buying guide and not to get any paint into the ferrule (the metal clasp holding the bristles) and your brush will stand up pretty well. I've been doing 90% of my painting with two #2's, a 0 and a 000 and after about 100 minis they're just as good as new.

u/a4d9 · 1 pointr/minipainting

No problem! I was the EXACT same way! Painting right out of the pot, never thinning, priming, or varnishing miniatures... But seriously, trust me that the longer you put off getting a wet palette (just like I did) the more you'll regret it. It keeps your paint from drying out as quickly and saves you a TON of money. You literally just need this and some parchment paper(Just because the paper that comes with it is pretty bad in my opinion). You can DIY your own wet palette to start off with which there's plenty of tutorials for, but the thing I linked has been a life saver and is much better than a homemade one.

I cant tell just from looking at your paint job just because it doesn't actually effect the visual of the paint job- but getting some primer and varnish are huge too. They're more for keeping the paint job on the model instead of actually improving painting, but they're essential too if you haven't used them yet. And ALWAYS shake your matt varnish well, or it'll make your model glossy. You may already know this stuff which is completely fine- I just know these are things that weren't pointed out to me until way farther down the line, and I was kicking myself because I didn't know about them.

Thinning paints is still something I struggle with, most recently on my Luke model. Just lots of testing and trial and error, but this guy explains it pretty well. You're definitely headed in the right direction though, getting these few things down will open up a whole new world as far as what you can do with a model. Good luck!

u/BoddynockBeren · 1 pointr/minipainting

In general, as far as nicer sable brushes go, most people tend to recommend Windsor & Newton Series 7 and Raphael 8404. Typically they come as single brushes, though I think they have sets if you were so inclined. There are a few other brands too, like Broken Toad or Da Vinci.

From what I've read, Citadel's Artificer brushes are just rebranded Windsor & Newton Series 7 that are sized to Citadel's custom sizes (XS, S, M instead of the standard numbered sizes). So you end up paying more for the same thing, but they are certainly nice brushes if GW is your thing.

For synthetic brushes, the popular suggestion is the Princeton Select Artiste brushes.

Took out any affiliate/referral parts of the Amazon links in case you wanted to use them to buy.

Additionally, Miniac has a good video where he reviews a handful of popular brushes:

No idea why the buying guide got removed, though. It was a little subjective so maybe that's why? I hope at least another one gets put back up.

u/WarbossTodd · 1 pointr/minipainting

So this is my advice:

buy an airbrush.

TCP global sells a inexpensive set on Amazon and if you're just doing base sprays with it this will be fine.

I can't even begin to tell you how an airbrush has made things simpler and easier for me.

Prime with vallejo airbrush primer. As in this video I use the Grey almost exclusively. Airbrushing primer gives you WAY more control that a standard rattle can. You can use it indoors, it dries much faster and you can use different shades.

After that there are all sorts of techniques for getting yellow done well, but the easiest might be getting the Averland Sunset air paint from GW. The key with yellow is thin coats. Once you get a good base then shade with a brown-ish wash. I like Seriphim Sepia for this. The impulse will be to wash the whole model, but I would say unless you're ready to do a million build up coast, just do a recess wash. Then clean your yellow back up with brushed on averland sunset making sure the avoid the areas the wash has setteled into.

Next, grab a lighter yellow. From the GW line, that would be Yriel Yellow. Do an all over layer, again staying out of the recess areas you shaded before. Again, THIN COATS!!

I would then highlight with a drypaint, but be careful to be light about it. Don't brush on too much or be too heavy handed. hexos Palesun.

Now finish up with Lamenter Yellow glaze. Thin even coats and you're done.

u/TheWeedsiah · 2 pointsr/minipainting

There metallic paint in the kit usually sucks and is hard to get coverage, ymmv. I bought a set of metallics from another company.

I would also recommend getting or making wet pallete(Either one you choose use parchment paper (not the thick paper that comes with store bought wet palette)

Take your time and remember you can always go back over a section. Also deviate from the instructions if you want to try something and see how it looks, best way to learn imo.

Definitely get the 2nd kit. All the models scale up but the techniques in second get really make minis look good. They are super time consuming though.

My Orc

My Knight

Spent better part of a day on each, really blew my mind I was able to do something I told myself I never could because I had no artistic ability 20 years ago. Have fun and post results.

u/CheshireM · 9 pointsr/minipainting

These are really excellent for first minis, there's a ton you did right:

  • Neat and clean areas of color
  • Good shading
  • Edge-highlighting of consistent width
  • Some fun technical effects like blood
  • Actually good eyes (seriously this is super difficult to do well)

    It looks like you used some sort of gloss varnish on them, and if I were to offer one piece of advice, it would be to ditch the gloss and use a matte finish like Testor's Dullcote. You can even spray these guys with a matte varnish to tone down their current glossiness.
u/TeeDeeArt · 6 pointsr/minipainting

the reaper bones kickstarter V is coming in a few days, oct 1 I believe, it was supposed to be 2 weeks ago but got delayed a tad.

this is THE big discounted bundle all the dm's are waiting for, the bones kickstarters are BUCKETS of the damn things, tonnes of mediocre minis with a dnd fantasy focus, for like $1 a mini. You'll never get through em all.

BUT it will take MONTHS to arrive (IIRC it took 12 for reaper bones IV? somebody who got it can confirm).

In the meantime board-games are your best bet, keep an eye on ebay and such.

Go into a games workshop on an off-time (the late night big events aren't gunna be great) and they'll take you through the whole process with a free mini. And then try to flog you all their stuff

The reaper learn to paint kit for $34us has everything you need, 2 brushes, 11(?) paints and 3 minis, as well as a guide. All that's mising is the final layer of varnish to protect your precious first paintjob.

u/corejh · 3 pointsr/minipainting

I agree they're definitely too glossy. I've been using Mod Podge Clear Acrylic Matte Sealer, but it doesn't seem to go on matte at all. Maybe I need a few more passes? I also ordered a can of Testor's Spray Lacquer because that's what I saw Sorastro using in some of his guides. Any other recommendations for products that would give me a better matte finish?

Funny you pointed out the black and red, those were the only colors I used straight from the bottle and didn't mix with anything. I'll definitely try to thin them out next time.

Thanks for the critique!

u/CornflakeJustice · 1 pointr/minipainting

Fair enough! I'm probably a little nicer than average to my brushes, but I've definitely got a few I have beaten the ever loving hell out of. Couple great coverage brushes out of it, plus a good drybrush, Nurgle Rot applicator, and so on. But yeah, at the very least you might consider grabbing some Master's Brush Cleaner. I find it to be very effective and it's not much more than water, brush cleaner, swishes, and then dry it off, reshape and set aside. Less than a minute and you'll get some more use out of your brushes! Maybe even 7 minutes!

u/Philostic · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I usually paint reaper minis, but for him you could honestly just get a bag of green army men and prime them grey, then move on to more intricate minis (and expensive) minis when he learns the basics (and doesn't lose patience.)

As for paints, a normal acrylic set should work out, you could also look into a paint kit. I would honestly recommend the Reaper Bones Learn-to-Paint Kit as it was my first, comes with a decent selection of colors that don't require thinning for regular painting, as well as a couple brushes and 3 minis.

Hope this helps! :)

u/onebit · 1 pointr/minipainting

I've read craft paints have less and larger pigment than miniature paints. They worked fine on the terrain I painted.

Judging by this thread they work, but the guy shoukd have used more coats to get good coverage.

Another convenient thing about mini paints is the color variations. Reaper (my new personal choice-- switched from Vallejo) is pretty cool, because it has shade/base/highlight triads. Seems like GW is moving to this as well.

The main thing is to dilute paints a little on the palette. Almost every kind of paint is too thick from the bottle.

If you want some good, inexpensive brushes check out Rosemary & Co series 33 brushes.

u/gweezer · 1 pointr/minipainting

Like, it seems, everyone else, that was my starter too. It's supremely useful for basic paints that you'll use on everything, blacks, greys, whites, and browns, but it had little else for specific details. (Which was probably the point). Mine came with a yellow, blue, and green that I don't like and have already replaced (except the yellow because I just don't use the color enough to need to). No red.

I'm personally not a fan of the paints themselves, though. They work for the fact that you don't have the money to buy all those browns and blacks individually, but they're too runny for my tastes, separate really easy and are hard to get back, and I just don't like dropper bottles. I feel like a lot of paint is wasted for the fact that I can't just drip my brush in when I just need it for one or two little details.

That said, I'm still using most of them. I bought my own paints for skin tones and bright colors. I use the GW Citadel paints, I know some people think they're too expensive, but they're over all better quality than most other paints I've tried.

When you first go to get extra paints, try something in a tub instead of with a dropper, see which one you like best. It took me a little getting used to the tubs, but I hate the droppers now.

As is said, you'll want better brushes. What I used for a long while is This They're not exactly great quality but they're better than most basic cheap sets you'll get at a craft store. The exceptional low price comes with a month long shipping time, though. Right now I'm trying out Army Painter brushes I got that set and the Character and Pshyco brushes. I only just bought them so I can't say anything myself, but I've heard good things.

One thing the kit doesn't even mention, if I remember right, is sealer. When I first started I tried to get a basic art acrylic sealer from a craft store, but it stayed forever sticky and destroyed the first few minis I painted, which was a huge disappointment. Your local game store should be able to show you what they use. I use the Citadel Purity Seal simply because it's all that local store had, I couldn't compare it to other spray sealers. It has a mate finish, and you have to be really careful to not over-coat or you'll loose detail.

I also have a little tub of Citadel 'ardcoat which is a high gloss sealer. I use it on top of the spray for a couple details, like anything wet or metal highlights, but in my experience anything glossy has been tacky, so use sparingly if you use at all.

u/Dains84 · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I have a basic table and chair with this LED lamp as the light source. It's very adjustable and has a low footprint so I can make sure I'm not hunched over the table while also having a plethora of brightness / wavelength options to fit my needs. There are brighter lamps available, but I liked the metal construction and the fact that the lamp can be twisted at the top arm. If those factors aren't important to you, this one is cheaper and brighter.

As far as making sure your back isn't wrecked, that can probably be fixed by better posture. Instead of hunching over the table to get a closer look at the figure, sit upright and hold the figure closer to your face. I imagine table height would be the most important factor there since I rest my elbows on the table when I paint, so the table being the correct height means I can sit upright and hold the figure in front of my face.

u/murgs · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Not from Canada, so I can't help you on the ordering stuff, but you can always check local brick and mortar gaming shops. If you find one that sells miniatures etc. not only can you buy your stuff there, they are probably also happy to help give you recommendations / stuff to practice with if they can gain you as a customer.

Oh and I would start with a starter set, not a mega set \^\^
(something like this but not completely overpricesed...)

u/DarkOdeus · 1 pointr/minipainting

Those sets actually look really awesome and right in the price range I was willing to spend. Might grab both! Thanks for the recommendation.

For brushes I saw army painter has this set it looks like it has the brushes you recommend and then some. Have you found the bristles of these brushes stay together well? I know on small brushes you will always have some minor separation because of their size.

Also what do you use to clean your brushes? I figured id pick some of this Master Brush Cleaner while i'm at it.

u/BullWizard · 1 pointr/minipainting

Thanks for this! This is really helpful. I love painting, but have always been pretty much self-taught through trial and error. Given the cost of entry for airbrushing, I'd like to enter on the lower end in case I don't like it, but also if low-end equipment is garbage, then I don't want to spend what I would have on 1 nice set buying 2 shitty ones. So your suggestions help me a lot!

From a quick google search, it looks like this is what you were suggesting, is that correct?

Thanks again!

u/1D13 · 3 pointsr/minipainting

Reaper Learn To Paint Bones Kit is a solid place to begin.

Miniature Painting Kit is a really solid pack of colors for a beginner as well. Good quality miniature paints, with a decent brush and most of the colors, washes, and metallics you'll need to get going. Plus it comes with the army painter getting started guide on how to paint tabletop quality models efficiently.

After that it's all preference and practicing more advanced techniques. But it is easier just to start by grabbing some cheap acrylic colors, a cheap pack of synthetic brushes from a hobby store, and begin painting a miniature.

You can read all the guides you want. Application of the techniques takes practical practice plain and simple. You can mentally know how to layer or glaze all day long. If you don't have the brush control that comes from actually painting, or know how much paint to load on your specific brush to achieve the effects then knowing the technique won't make your painting better.

Start painting!

u/IgwanaRob · 3 pointsr/minipainting

I bought one of these for using away from my hobby bench:

It has spot for a small water cup, I used some spare foam to turn the phone holder into a paintbrush holder, and it collapses in on itself for transport/storage.

There's also this one specific to Humbrol stuff, but can easily be used for other brands:

It's nice because it has spots for 2 cups, brushes, paints, and even a cutting mat.

Otherwise, any lap desk or tray table would be fine, especially if he's just starting out. Get an "artbin satchel" (or something similar from amazon or a local art store) to store everything else in when not in use.

Another thing to think about is this:

This will let him use and store the paint he's working with without drying out, and also allows them to be stored for several weeks - it's easy to clean and reuse (just follow the included instruction for setting it up).

u/smasho1 · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I am clueless with cutters, drills, sculpting-- I can make a snake out of green stuff. But for brushes and paints-- aha! I have your back.

Can you order from Amazon? These aren't CHEAP, quite, but they are really really great and can do just about anything! Link:

Also, these aren't nearly as good as Vallejo or Reaper paints, but they are far more affordable and if you use a wet pallete you can dab them with water for the perfect texture. Also, they mix very well (this is just one of the sets, you can compare others of this or Apple Barrel brands)

u/kyriose · 10 pointsr/minipainting

My recommended buying list for a new painter is:


  • Nippers
  • Hobby Knife
  • Thinning Medium
  • Glue
  • Glue Accelerant
  • Brush Cleaner
  • Palette


  • Primer
    ○ Grey is standard, white if you're painting a majority of light colors, and black if the majority is dark.
  • Matte Varnish


  • Brushes
    ○ Round 0
    ○ Round 1
    ○ Round 2

    All in all it should be around $60 USD for the tools and about $40 USD for the brushes. However, this list gives you every tool you will need to get started and to continue with the hobby.

    This is just what I like to have on hand, this does not reflect the "perfect list". I hope it helps :)
u/chazbamfvonbagg · 1 pointr/minipainting

So is this I prefer the latter because I would suggest starting with other than the preset minis in the box. I have both I recommend both but I think starting you should find more stuff yourself. Like pathfinder deep cuts or nolzurs marvelous miniatures. Bones are great don’t get me wrong I have thousands but they paint they come with isn’t the easiest to learn on.

u/ripman21 · 1 pointr/minipainting

This is what I use and it works great! It's pretty cheap and will last forever if you take good care of it. The paper can also be used many times over and on both sides so the 5 sheets that are included should last a while depending on how often you paint.

u/ShovelBum82 · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Brush "soap", and clean your brushes after every session. This will dramatically improve the lifespan of your brushes. I use this stuff:

Second, good prep work is key to a good finish. Mold lines suck, and removing them is a significant investment in time. I recently picked up a Citadel tool specifically designed for this task and it is superb! I can't recommend it enough. You can find it here:

u/ExMayo · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Actually had not heard of a wet palette until this comment. They look like a huge help. Do you have a recommendation on a wet palette? A quick Amazon search seems to indicate that this pallete might be a great bargain buy.

u/y4udothat · 3 pointsr/minipainting

I really like this kit.

The brushes are decent.

The paint selection is nice, although there is no red and the yellow is kinda meh. So you'll want to buy those two colors individually.

The best part for beginners, in my opinion, is that it includes 3 minis and a guidebook for how to paint them.

If you need help beyond that, YouTube is filled with tips, tutorials, etc. I like The Miniac and Tabletop Minions personally.

u/AdvocateReason · 2 pointsr/minipainting

With a 4x4 base you're probably looking for something that's 12"+ tall. I think you'll have more luck modeling that yourself than purchasing anything available. I think you'll have better luck buying this and this and testing your artistic ability.

Edit: These might make a nice touch: Melissa & Doug Rainbow Crystals Bead Set

u/teambarnes · 6 pointsr/minipainting

I used these bottles

Expensive but best I’ve found

These funnels

This flow aid

These mixing balls


I added a mixing ball to the bottle, added 5 drops of flow aid into the citadel paint pot and shook

Tipped the paint into the bottle via the funnel.

Added another 5 drops to the citadel pot and again shook it.

Tipped the remaining paint to the bottle via the funnel

Advantage of this method, is that your paints get slightly thinned down

Just noticed funnels not available so these might work as well

u/El_Dubious_Mung · 13 pointsr/minipainting

This stuff might save it. Also good to have regardless, keeps the bristles perfectly clean.

u/boomshrub · 1 pointr/minipainting

I use this for most of my painting. It has a very fine point so it can double as your fine detail and medium brush until you can afford more. Feel free to go with a cheaper brand though but consider these if you want an upgrade. Just avoid the ultra cheap brands, you can get sets for like £2 but they are trash.

Personally I dont recommend the GW brushes but others have. They are not the worse purchase as their products are generally high quality although expensive.

This is the brush cleaner most people use and it is wonderful.

u/number75 · 1 pointr/minipainting

My own 2 cents, but I'd recommend running an extension cord up to your hobby area as u/Tannaros1 suggests or to buy a cheap airbrush compressor much like u/M6453. If you haven't purchased an airbrush yet, you can get a rather decent starter set off amazon (Compressor+Airbrush+Hose) for less than a hundred USD

Personally, I'd recommend getting a dedicated compressor or running a line to your hobby area. I will say I'm against CO2 Cartridge/Canisters. Environmental impact aside, one of the key basic Airbrush skills is controlling the pressure output. A Cartridge or Smaller tank may have dips or fluctuations in pressure which could prove to be less than ideal when airbrushing. If you do buy a large refillable tank, I'd still suggest a moisture trap/regulator combination so you can keep an eye on the pressure and prevent moisture buildup.

u/TheSheDM · 1 pointr/minipainting

Reaper has a couple of great starter kits to get you started that not only contain paints, brushes, and some minis to practice on, they come with an instructional booklet packed in a handy case. They're honestly a great starting point and their paints are just as good as Vallejo or Citadel.

Army Painter and Vallejo also sell basic color sets that are just fine to start with. Search on Amazon and pick one you can afford - or check out your FLGS.

If you need to buy brushes b/c you didn't get a reaper kit, 1-2 cheap sets of miniature detail brushes will be fine. You will ruin your first brushes, but nontheless look up brush care and when you've progressed you can decide if you want fancy brushes.
Get yourself some brush soap too:

You don't need a million paints to start. All the primary colors (you know: red, blue, yellow, white, black, etc.) will let you mix your own colors to start. Just go slow and thin your paint with droplets of water.

u/aiasthetall · 3 pointsr/minipainting

I'm a pretty new painter so I'm sure there are better methods out there, but this stuff has been working well for me. You just clean the brush, then rinse and put some more on it, working the brush back into a fine tip. Let it dry, then rinse the brush before you use it next.

General Pencil 105-BP The Masters Brush Cleaner & Preserver 2.5 Ounces Carded-

u/Extech · 1 pointr/minipainting

Best starter paint set. The brush has lasted me ~3 years of regular use. Vallejo for any other color you might want. I'd stay away from Citadel and P3, it's overpriced and in paint pots that tend to dry out easier than bottles.

I'd get a cheap set of brushes for a few bucks from amazon/walmart, something like this. You can do 80% of painting with them, like your dry brushing and washes. All your details you can do with the brush from the starter set.

If you want to splurge I also used this set for ~3 years before I needed to replace the biggest brush, still use the other two. The smallest brush really comes in hand on minis.

u/coltonreese · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I figured this had been answered before, just wasn't sure where to look. Thanks for the response!

Would this kit be a good place to start? I'm hoping to have it by Friday because I've got all weekend free. So I want to order something today.

u/Ember_Ranger · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I’m newer to the hobby as well, so someone with more experience might give you some better advice. However, the Masters Brush Cleaner really helps. You can clean the brush and reform it to the correct shape to dry. Here’s a link if you need it.
General Pencil 105-BP The Masters Brush Cleaner & Preserver 2.5 Ounces Carded-

u/Chainsmoker977 · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I dont know about that kit but i bought this kit earlier this year and its been great so far.

Master Airbrush Multi-purpose Gravity Feed Dual-action Airbrush Kit with 6 Foot Hose and a Powerful 1/5hp Single Piston Quiet Air Compressor

Its a little cheaper than the one you linked ( maybe not after shipping). Its a gravity fed brush which is what you want. The one you link to looks to be siphon fed. The compressors look the same except your link has an additional tank which in my opinion is unnecessary.

u/The_Omnius · 4 pointsr/minipainting

I believe you should not leave the brushes in the water. When you finished appying a layer of paint with it, clean it with water. Just rinse the bristles in a cup of clean water until it's clean. Then you can leave it in your desk until you need it again.

When you call it a day, you should use the master's brush cleaner. This works like magic. Please see this video about the usage of this wonderful substance here.

u/Hyperimaginative42 · 3 pointsr/minipainting

I also endorse the Reaper Learn To Paint Kit ( You can be up and painting immediately, or at least after some prep work. You'll also want some brush soap/Masters Brush Cleaner and a hobby knife (for removing mold lines from the Reaper Bones minis).

Give the minis a good scrub with some dish soap to get all of the mold-release agent off, as it can prevent paint from sticking to the mini. If a Reaper Bones mini has bent limb/weapon/accessory, you can drop it in some boiling (or at least very-hot) water to get it to snap back into shape. Submerge it in some ice water after that and it should hold in its correct position. It sounds like a lot of prep work, but it makes a huge difference in your final product.

Follow the included guide, and you'll have three good baseline minis to start your collection, and start developing your skills. If you want to keep practicing the skills, Reaper's just introduced their Stage 2 kit ( Don't be surprised if you get addicted very quickly.

u/Ursin_Brennus · 3 pointsr/minipainting

The quick flick it just to rinse excess paint out. I have two rinse cups: one for metallic; the other for regular. Only moisten my brush from the non-metallic water.

As previously posted, don't get your paint up near the metal ferrule, or as the paint dries it will cause the bristles to fan out (leaving you a brush only good for mixing paint).

About once a week I wash and rinse with "The Master's" brush cleaner. It's available at art supply stores and Michael's (they regularly have 40% off coupons). It really helps keep the brushes in good condition. If you soak your brushes to release paint, don't let them rest point down in a jar of water, it quickly destroys their ability to form a nice point.

u/JoshGiff · 1 pointr/minipainting

It's more of a soapy dish that you run your brush through then clean out with water and repeat until you're clean. You still want to avoid getting paint too far up your bristles into the ferrule (metal part) but it helps condition your brush and keep the bristles aligned properly into a nice point while also removing leftover paint.

Edit: Here is what I'm talking about: The Masters Brush Cleaner & Preserver 2.5 Ounces Carded-

I bought mine almost 2 years ago and I'm still using the same one.

u/ProgenitorX · 1 pointr/minipainting

Highly recommend getting this to get started: Reaper Bones Learn to Paint Kit

Also, if you want to make your life a little easier, consider making or buying a wet palette, a nice Sable brush, and definitely some Master's Brush Cleaner.


If you're just painting the one mini, you can get Reaper paints and use their online tool to decide which colors to get.

u/RynoKenny · 1 pointr/minipainting

edit: is this brush I purchased the correct brush? It says watercolor, but it's the one that this sub's buyers guide links to...

I treat it like a goddess, but it has never had a nice point before. I wish I returned it a year ago.

u/butterface · 1 pointr/minipainting

I have a Vallejo MDF rack, but I use a couple of these buggaroos as well. Holds a zillion paints, and even fits non-dropper pots (GW, etc).

I can comfortably fit about 80 droppers in one. They do take up desk space, however. The wall rack is really the way to go if you have easily-accessible wall space around your station.

u/Kozmo_Arkanis · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Nail polish racks I use these to put paints in:

Works great for miniature displays too! I bought a few extra when they were around $10 and they can stand 5 rows of action figures/minis. Great space savers.

u/slartiwhoop · 3 pointsr/minipainting

I recommend the Army Painter Wargames Starter Paint Set. It has all the basic colors you need anyway plus an excellent metallic and a very nice wash. There's also a brush included that's not complete rubbish. Later you can add more colors to your collection as you need them.

u/lordxi · 1 pointr/minipainting

Lots of battlestations have the laser cut MDF paint racks that look like stadium tiers. A quick google turned up this nail polish rack on walmart's site. I've got a desk facing the wall so I use one like these but made from aluminium scraps from where I was working.

edit: Before I got the racks I used to keep all my paints in one of these drawer stacks. It worked great while I only used GW paints.

u/Krazed59 · 3 pointsr/minipainting

I use this brush cleaner. When I'm done using my brushes for the day I clean them with it (just water and the cleaner) and then wash them. I then lather the brushes in the cleaner again before hanging them up on the rack. The cleaner dries semi-hard and helps keep the points straight and firm.

u/Wncsnake · 1 pointr/minipainting
It looks like it is under review for packaging reasons, but you can find similar ones up there, and it is awesome and affordable

u/Entropy21 · 1 pointr/minipainting

They look 10 times better than most of mine.. that are still on the sprue and in a box.

Also as far as paint goes. Find a local game shop if you can and see if they have a beginner set. I know Reaper has one that comes with a few minatures. GW also had something at one point. Also Army Painter had one that went with Zombicide.

Edit: links

Reaper Miniatures 08906 Learn To Paint Bones Kit

Games Workshop. Some of them have minis and some do not. If you do choose one without they have some great start collecting boxes.

Army painter Zombicide sets

u/loafjunky · 8 pointsr/minipainting

This right here! I started off with it, and to this day I'm still using the compressor, just upgraded the airbrush. The set will last you a long time while you get the hang of things and improve your skill. Once you feel you're ready to move onto a better airbrush, do your research, find what you want, and then all you'll need is the airbrush and a new moisture trap that fits the new airbrush hose. Different brands have different size connectors.

But yeah, I can't recommend that set enough.

u/Grandtank19 · 2 pointsr/minipainting

The Reaper kit here

Is from what im aware of, the best mini painting starter set you can get, price effective too.

u/Ass_Masster · 4 pointsr/minipainting

Army painter is likely your best bet, and they have a relatively large kit (link below) and you're not going to get better than $2 per pot. Really as far as I know, the big names are really what you're looking at, and probably expect to pay between $2.50 and $5 a color. You can by other brands, but miniature paint is made for miniatures, and will turn out better than a store bought acrylic at michaels. P3, Vallejo, Citadel, Army painter, those are you big names.

u/Hornady1991 · 1 pointr/minipainting

If you want to get started, this isn't a bad way to do it. it's a cheapie and you will outgrow it fast, but it's a great way to get started and figure out how it all works.

u/Fabreze · 1 pointr/minipainting

For 35 bucks you get everything he will need in his very own kit.

You might be able to go cheaper at like 25 bucks buying Apple barrel and some cheapo brushes and a few cheap models but might as well spend the extra 10 and get paint that is intended for the hobby and a nice little carry case.

u/Route66_LANparty · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Get a paint respirator and you are good to go.

u/Vexinator · 2 pointsr/minipainting

If you are Canadian, a UK company called "The Society for All Artists (UK)" is selling a few W&N Series 7 Kolinskies on for even less right now. I actually was looking at both sites earlier today and bought a size 1 and size 0 from amazon.

The size 0 is from the miniature line, the size 1 is from the normal watercolor line. $11.50 and $17.09 respectively. With free shipping and exchange rate factored in, this was a better deal.

u/Jewfro879 · 3 pointsr/minipainting

This is what I bought when I got started. It is a pretty good starter and comes with 3 minis. Not terrible depending on your budget only $30

u/oonooneoo · 1 pointr/minipainting

Brush soap will help keep your brushes going longer. Working a wet brush across the cake then swirling the lathered bristles against the palm of your hand breaks up any paint in the belly of the brush or that has dried on the bristles. Rinse, add a little more soap, then shape the clean brush to a point and let it dry. Used at the end of your painting session, it'll extend the life of your brushes by months or even years. I swear by The Master's Brush Cleaner.

Varnish protects the paint job, reducing chipping and wear. PVC figures actually hold up pretty well without it, but I recommend using it anyway to get the most mileage possible out of your figures. It comes in gloss, satin, and matte. Matte is my preference because it doesn't interfere with the shadows and highlights as much as a shinier option.

u/ElsieSteam · 2 pointsr/minipainting

When I first started painting minis a year ago I saw someone recommend this guy

Super cheap. I've had it over a year and havent even had to change batteries on the light. It's not always the most comfortable, but I only wear it for the real fine details.

u/-BreakingPoint0 · 5 pointsr/minipainting

I use Windsor and Newton Series 7 size 2 for all my painting needs. Have been for a year and a half or so and the tip is still as pointy as if it was new. I highly recommend getting yourself some Masters cleaner as well:

That is what I use and it has kept my brush in tip top shape. I also don't use my expensive brush for intense work, such as dry brushing, oil washing, and putting paint onto the palette.

u/cfrech59 · 1 pointr/minipainting

reaper starter kit.

If you buy from reaper (more than on amazon) then for every $40 spent free shipping and a free mini (changes monthly)

u/NecroGi · 1 pointr/minipainting

Beginning Paint Set

Good Beginner Brushes

Palette I still use

This should get you started, the only other thing I'd suggest is getting a black wash (I use citadel paints so I use Nuln Oil, unsure what the technical term for it is). The thing is, I've purchased a ton of stuff. A TON OF STUFF. I never ended up using the Dry Paint set that I got, out of all of the washes I only use two of them on a regular basis and I use expensive brushes now. If you're just starting out it's better to use these synthetic brushes because they're cheaper and you don't have to worry too much if they get ruined. Expensive brushes are great, but you won't know why until you get better.

u/wdmartin · 1 pointr/minipainting

I use one of these, which I like because it clamped onto the edge of my desk, can be powered off a USB port from my computer (directly below it), and has a reasonably flexible gooseneck so I can get the light where I need it. On the down side, there's no way to adjust the brightness. I haven't minded because I basically want full brightness all the time so I can see my mini clearly.

When I attended ReaperCon last August, I noticed an awful lot of TaoTronics desk lamps in use.

u/tbaileysr · 1 pointr/minipainting

I got mine from Hobby Town for around $16 not sure the model. From China I am sure. They had a more expensive model too. Don't get the Harbor Freight one it is terrible. The magnifier is terrible, and the battery doors won't stay on. The cheaper one I got from Hobby Town works much better. For a gift the nicer model may be the way you might want to go.

Edit: This looks exactly like the one I got. Go figure it is less than I paid.

u/Max-Ray · 1 pointr/minipainting

I have been using 1" plastic squares that I got on Amazon. I'd seen a few Kickstarters for stampers to put a pattern onto bases. I figured I could make my own.

I used the Clay to make my positive. I made one of a cobblestone and another of bricks. They are much larger than the size of the base so that I can use any portion to create the impression.

I then used this low melting point plastic. Soften it up and then press it into the clay pattern. Now I have a negative that I can use over and over.

I then got some Green Stuff. Put it on my 1" square base and then gently press into my negative image. Now I have a positive and I can let that setup and glue/pin my mini to the base.

u/taka06 · 2 pointsr/minipainting

You could try out a wet palette, it will help with your paint consistency to get to the "just right" thinness. You can get an actual wet palette with a sponge and purpose-built container like this, or you can make your own out of a tupperware container, paper towel, and some parchment paper following something like this guide. If you get the sta-wet one, I recommend using parchment paper instead of the paper they provide. I think it generally works better for model acrylics.

I won't pretend to understand the science behind it, but I do know that it has helped my paint thinning game immensely.

u/necrofuturism · 5 pointsr/minipainting

The Masters brush cleaner & preserver is awesome for cleaning and maintaining your brushes. It also lasts forever because you only need a teensy tiny bit to give your brushes a lil spa day!

u/thvbh · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Here is the brush soap I'm talking about. It's invaluable for getting a good lifespan out of your nice brushes. If he's just rinsing with water, it won't take long before he's got enough built up acrylic in and around the ferrule to split the tip. This might be why he seems to go through them so fast. With the Master's, or maybe even the heavy duty stuff he might even be able to recover some of the brushes he thought were toast.

u/toanyonebutyou · 3 pointsr/minipainting

If you plan on playing with the minis do game air not model air. My understanding is that model air is not made to be handled.

Also I think the model master airbrush set from Amazon is more than enough for a beginner. No need to lay down 500 bucks for a good airbrush and compressor.

Master Airbrush Multi-purpose Gravity Feed Dual-action Airbrush Kit with 6 Foot Hose and a Powerful 1/5hp Single Piston Quiet Air Compressor

u/Greatgamedad · 1 pointr/minipainting

I’ve used cheap paints and they range in usability. The folk art paints at Walmart are not too bad as long as your willing to do 3 or 4 coats. Those ones you’ve got there look like the ultra cheap stuff which I couldn’t even to get to show up on the models.

My recommendation is just buy the good paint, your spending 60+ usd on models. I just buy a few paints at a time as I need them. Go buy 3 colors you want for your army and go from there. Those cheap paints are just going to frustrate you.

Edit: go with something like this

u/redpiano · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Yeah that thing is called "helping hands" I believe, it serves the same purpose more or less.

Vallejo paint is arguably some of the longest lasting paint on the market, I would avoid GamesWorkshop paints as they have a reputation of drying out fast. However my Vallejo bottles from 2009 are still kicking.

Yeah, get him a canister of this stuff, and a couple either Raphael 8404 or Winsor & Newton S7's and he won't really need any other brush for years.

You can buy cheap airbrush kits from the "master" brand that include an airbrush and air compressor for I think about 80$, I don't personally have any experience with them so I can't say much about them. I've heard that the compressors will last a decent amount of time, comparable if not better than more expensive air compressors like Grex. And you can upgrade the airbrush at a later date for an entry level Iwata Revolution for like 70$.

A wet palette is a palette with a sponge or paper towel soaked in water covered by a piece of parchment paper. Basically it keeps paint moist so that they don't dry out within a few minutes of laying them on the palette. You can make one for nothing, you literally just need a stack of paper towels, a flat Tupperware container and a roll of parchment paper. But there are companies that make wet palettes and sell pre-cut inserts and such.

u/merlin2232 · 0 pointsr/minipainting

Get a good brush.this is a good brush size to do 95-99% of your models

u/shoots_N_loaders · 3 pointsr/minipainting

You have a great foundation. It looks like you are using unthinned citadel paints out of the pot.

Grab a wet palette for like $12

Sta-Wet Palette Keeps Paints Fresh For Days With Airtight Lid 857

I drop a dab of paint on the palette dip my brush in water and then mix the water and paint on the palette. Then paint with that. It may take a few tries to get the consistency where you want, but thinning will get the look you want.

u/Frognosticator · 5 pointsr/minipainting

I recommend starting out with a beginner box. The Reaper Beginner Box has all the paints, washes, and brushes you'll need to get started. It also comes with an instructional booklet and some models to practice on, so you can work on the basic skills.

Keep in mind that minipainting is a cheap hobby... but WH40k is not. If you're just interested in the painting aspect, or you're on a very tight budget, you may want to look at some different games. Warhammer can get very expensive very quickly.

u/Gearyster · 1 pointr/minipainting

User this. Stuff is amazing.
General Pencil Company The Masters Brush Cleaner & Preserver 2.5 0z.

u/g_borris · 1 pointr/minipainting

For those of you who have 10 dollars and want the real thing:

It works great. I have gouache paints in mine from four months ago that are still moist and I haven't added water.

u/Cyntax3rr0r · 3 pointsr/minipainting

This video uses Army Painter's Quickshade, which also gives the muddy look you're after. While different from a wash, the method is the same if you're treating the entire mini with nuln oil. Keep the shadow areas dark and whisk away shade on the highlighted areas. Or simply darken the areas selectively with the wash.

I'd recommend Testor's Dullcote for a good spray matte varnish. You can find it at most big box and craft stores also.

u/AlertLevel · 5 pointsr/minipainting

If you plan on taking up the hobby and want paints to build on, I would pick up the Reaper learn to paint set . Comes with 2 brushes and 11 paints to get you started. Plus 3 minis to use in campaign. There’s a reason there are so many pictures of that skeleton mini on the sub. It’s a great starting point.

u/Rinascita · 1 pointr/minipainting

In addition to this, when I clean my brushes, I use this:

It helps them to stay clean and keep their shape for far longer than prior to using it.

u/XnFM · 1 pointr/minipainting

An Airbrush Booth is essentially the most compact way to set up adeqeuate ventilation if you're not working in an area that's naturally well ventilated (like a garage or something). It's just like the fume hood on your stove or the exhasut fan in the bathroom, only it's generally connected to a box of some kind, usually with a light, and a lazy susan. I've linked that "standard" commercially available one, but there are other options as well. Some people DIY them as well, though i wouldn't recommend it if you don't have access to the tools and know-how to do it already.

u/lylamev · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I use my reaper paints on my sta-wet palette, so it is not only made for acrylic. It has made a huge difference in my painting, and probably one of the top tips I would give anyone who is starting out. Also! I was double checking my links and realized I had linked to the extra big palette, not the small one I normally use. The one I use is only $10, here is the link! I have also updated the blog post, so thank you for helping me catch that!

ANYWAY, if you are unsure about spending the money, here is a DIY tutorial on making your own. I highly recommend a wet palette, it can make a big difference in your painting! Using paint that is too dry can cause texture and won't blend as easily, so it can be a big problem.

u/TorchedBlack · 2 pointsr/minipainting

You can look into some more tailored brush soap as opposed to just dish soap. This is what I use and it works pretty well. Similar process to what you're currently using and you can also leave some of the soap on to dry to "sculpt" and condition the brushes back into shape.

u/Yogymbro · 5 pointsr/minipainting

My wife bought me these for Christmas, and they've been great.

u/randomisation · 6 pointsr/minipainting

The Master's Brush Cleaner & Preserver-1 Ounce

That's the standard size. £4.16 + free uk delivery.

u/penguin_jones · 1 pointr/minipainting

Sure. This is the one that I bought. $10. Inexpensive, and I love it. It's all plastic, and seemingly not the highest quality, but I haven't had any problems with it at all.

u/Lonecoon · 1 pointr/minipainting

It is! It's perfect for all different sizes of paints, from GW paint pots to standard squeeze bottles.

u/dravenhavok · 1 pointr/minipainting

If you want to be extra safe a respirator and a spray booth is what you want.

u/RoboForgotHisPass · 6 pointsr/minipainting

Do you use a brush soap to clean your brushes? I use this:

The key is to leave some soap on the brush when you are not using it and shape the brush to a point (or however it is naturally suppose to be shaped) so that when it dries it will keep that shape. Just be sure to thoroughly rime the brush in your water cup before dipping in the paint.

u/chancefire · 1 pointr/minipainting

I use one of these bad boys:
I also have a normal halogen desk lamp on the other side of my desk. My only complaint is that you can't rotate the bar, but that's rarely an issue. It has a USB charger on it too, which is surprisingly useful.

u/Rogue__Jedi · 5 pointsr/minipainting

I got my Reaper learn to paint kit today. I have zero experience with painting but it was way easier than I expected.

u/Trailphaze · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I recently bought one of these sets. they're pretty good and fairly cheap compared to buying idividually. the brush it comes with is great for large areas but i wouldnt try doing any detail with it. you do have to shake the bottles like crazy though.

u/tug_boat_captain · 1 pointr/minipainting

I use Vallejo brush on primer, but I use the grey color. Here is a link. It's a debate on here whether or not their "White Primer" is actually primer, or if it's just the color of their paint. I've heard different things from different people but never used it myself. Also, white tends to be a hard color to get even coverage with, so that might be your problem as well.

As far as your glossy problem, you could always hit your minis with some Testors Aerosol Enamel Paint 3oz-Dullcote Lacquer. This seems to be the preferred spray matte. If you want a brush on matte varnish, I have had good results with the Vallejo matte varnish. I haven't used anything else. Hope this helps!

u/RandomH3r0 · 2 pointsr/minipainting

These are the ones I got but both were cheaper at the time.

Vallejo color pack was right at $41.

Reaper Bone Set was like $30.

edit: had the prices swapped.

u/XxGingerSharkxX · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I prefer citadel over all. I use the citadel Colour app to help with the color choice and how to apply. I do use Vallejo when I need an air brush version of a color that Citadel doesn’t have or for priming.

I understand the stance you have on the pricing with citadel, but you can make that line of paint last longer.

Head to amazon and order these items
15ml dropper bottles
1ml needless syringe
flow aid
small stainless steel ball baring

By following the steps in this video on YouTube I was able to transfer all my base and layer paints to dropper bottles. Now I can limit how much paint I’m wasting to a minimum. Because like you said, they can be expensive

u/matt3o · 1 pointr/minipainting

use a scalpel and side-cutting pliers to carefully cut the base out of the mini leaving just a small piece around the feet.

Get some blank bases and use green stuff to create your 3d cobblestone texture. The exceeding plastic under the feet will help to keep the mini steady and will be completely covered by the green stuff.

u/Greystorms · 1 pointr/minipainting

This kit is what I started with, except that I got a Badger Patriot 105 as my starting airbrush(on sale at Amazon for about 50% off). That compressor has served me well for almost a year now, and it's fantastic for basecoating, priming, etc.

Don't forget that you'll probably also want a spray booth, and you'll need a respirator(don't breathe aerosolized acrylic paint).

I've used GW paints in the the airbrush; it works but requires thinning. "Always thin your paints" is even more key than when brush painting; how much will vary depending on brand, color, specific pot of paint, etc etc. I also use Vallejo Air paints and occasionally spray P3 paints through the brush.

u/Sychophant · 1 pointr/minipainting

Synthetic brushes will deteriorate no matter what you do. Natural hair brushes are the way to go. I've only had to replace one of my good brushes in the 2 years I've been painting. I use This at the end of every painting session.

u/AetherGauntlet · 5 pointsr/minipainting

I third this. With a small reservation, I would suggest getting a kit with a small tank like this as it will allow you to play with the airbrush for longer periods of time without having the engine overheat.

u/SwirishNinja · 3 pointsr/minipainting

Check out the official "WHAT SHOULD I BUY!" guide.

This is a good starter kit.

u/MrZwij · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I had zero experience and got a lot out of the Reaper Learn to Paint kit Amazon link. It comes with very good printed instructions.

It doesn't have red or yellow a fleshtone though. Just a thing to keep in mind.

e: derp fix

u/Klaidheamhmor · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Ah okay, I'm going to look at that one then. I actually saw what I believe might be the cheaper model of that one here and watched a couple of YouTube video reviews of it. From what I can tell, the difference looks mainly to be the compressor.

Out of the two of those, is it worth spending the extra $30 or so dollars for the larger compressor?

u/swdpwnzdggr · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I got this the other week, I currently live in a ~400 square foot apartment and it isn't much louder than my windows AC, takes about 30-60 seconds to fill up, and from then on is perfectly silent until it starts running low and it will turn back on, fill up in a few secs, shut off again.

u/skieblue · 2 pointsr/minipainting

You might try Master's Brush Cleaner (some of the liquid brush repair fluids might work as well, try looking for the one from Winsor & Newton) and see if that works; however I wouldn't count on it.

It's quite personal (some very good painters I know use cheap nylon or Citadel brushes exclusively and replace as needed), but I would say that buying a W&N S7 brush was a revelation for me.

u/MurkMuffin · 1 pointr/minipainting


These will get you started for sure! 13 bucks (13.19 to be exact) and you'll continue to use these even after your brush collection grows.

u/deltadave · 1 pointr/minipainting

You want to use flow aid to thin paints. This will dilute the color without thinning the paint.

To tell the truth, you'll want both as flow aid will make paint more glossy. You can either add matte medium or varnish it with matte finish to counteract.

u/neverdeadned22 · 1 pointr/minipainting

This might be a good place to start, get a hang on the basics and then move up from there