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Well you've got the same back end as the evo 7, 8 & 9 so I'd look into finding some Evo tail lights like these for example
http://amzn.com/B007DJHMK2

You could also get a big wing if you like that style
http://amzn.com/B001D6UYMY

HID bulbs for the headlights would be something to invest in as well, they look amazing at night :) and also really help with night time driving.
www.ddmtuning.com

Maybe some oz rally rims?
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem;PdsSession=99b8e61313e0a5e9069250b2ffc92cfd?itemId=160710663109&index=4&nav=SEARCH&nid=20941965219

An air intake would help with performance as well.
http://amzn.com/B000C3YTBQ

A muffler & exhaust system would help with performance as well, along with giving it a low growl :)
http://www.carid.com/2003-mitsubishi-lancer-exhaust-systems/

And a strut support bar to help with staying flat when turning.
http://thmotorsports.com/i-444143.aspx?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=4441432003MITSUBISHILANCER&utm_campaign=GoogleShoppingSeanVehSpec&adtype=pla&kw=&gclid=CJCRusiJkbcCFUeCQgod5lMANw

Mmmmm and that's about all I would do, may be a sound system eventually.

(Sorry for the links being the size of King Kong lol I'm on a mobile)

Thanks for pointing the balance numbers out again. I think I overlooked them in the original post you made. I was able to static and road force balance tires to near perfect, like 0.005 and 0.01 and 0.02, very commonly using a couple of hunter machines back when I worked for a Goodyear subsidiary. The machines we had were pretty new back then, and had internal harmonic balancing sensors and laser evaluation to determine Out of Round.(OOR).

More like the bead on the inside, and belts on the inside. The amount of rubber is also a factor, winter tires are not so good on balancing. The bead is thicker in spots ( its a giant metal ring on both sides of the tires. If the steel belts have an issue, like bunching up, or a flaw, this can be a problem as well.

As far as those balance numbers go. All of those numbers are correctable with 5G weight sections on the inside of the rim if the weight distribution is biased to the inside (inner side) of the rim. Some times you need multiple weights in multiple locations to effectively balance a tire. It should rarely be a one and done operation. I've also seen objectively perfect tires from both Michelin, Goodyear and Kumho. Like, no weights required. Perfect Round.

Some rims have hammer on weights for the front, while others use sticky for both. I have shoehorned stickies for front if possible, but more often than not, since the hammer on weights are made of soft metal, I would cut sizes down larger weights to satisfy dependencies if it were a hammer on front. It's simple: Chisel, Hammer, Meet wheel weight and basic digital scale.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/wheel_balancing.htm Check that out, it gives you some basic information on the topic.

You can see that 0.30 is equal to 1.5oz and 1.5oz is equal to 42.5 grams. The RR, LR, and RF are all correctable with standard weights. I would respin the LF and compensate for the out of round condition, opposite to the origin of the condition.

https://www.amazon.com/Supply-Steel-Stick-Wheel-Weights/dp/B0031B7Y7W


You need to clean the application site with ether ( tire techs do this for stick ons.)


To me, it seems like your tire technician probably depends on the machines, and does the best he/she can do, with what is provided as far as weights go.

So go out there and give them a talking to. The bigger the tire, the harder to balance, but those numbers are not consistent with what I would send out.

If the tech has no idea about out of round (Inches) to oz and to grams. Tell him to use the machine to check the inside and outside. Which ever side has the most variation will require a compensating wheel weight and multiple re-balances.

Please ensure that the tech is using the proper hub for your vehicle. Trucks have huge hubs, while passenger vehicles and SUVs have smaller hubs.

Have the technician run the machine with the calibration device attached as well.


If your technician cannot balance these tires, take them somewhere else for a balance, if a place fails to adequately perform the balance, they typically will retry, and if that fails, refund the balance fee. If they are unable to correct the issue, return to your original provider, voice your complaints, talk the talk and start talking refund. I would bet my left arm that they will try to put you in another set of tires, usually for a discount. Be polite, but firm. The worst thing that can happen at a tire shop is for you to walk out.

I tell you that I cannot count the amount of times we discounted installation, lifetime balancing and rotation, valve stems and additional addons, just to move a set of tires.

I originally tried the same thing (googling everything) but trying to find all the information I was looking for in one place was next to impossible. Plus you have so many contradicting views on how to go about tuning...etc.

Engine Management: Advanced Tuning by Greg banish. Its a little older (written in 2007) but still covers all the basics you will need.

http://www.amazon.com/Engine-Management-Advanced-Greg-Banish/dp/1932494421/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1416614952&sr=1-1&keywords=engine+management+advanced+tuning

Automotive engine management systems by Jeff Heartman. This book came out in 2013 (i believe) and deals a lot with volumetric efficiency (VE) based engine management systems (like the AEM infinity). This book was the first one I read and it really gives you a good understanding of things. Its much longer then the book above, but seeing as how it goes into greater depth and more aspects of tuning its worth the read.

http://www.amazon.com/Modify-Automotive-Engine-Management-Systems/dp/0760343454/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1416615138&sr=1-1&keywords=automotive+engine+management+systems

Other honourable mentions:

Maximum boost by Corky bell (the book is a bit older, but its really well written and interesting)

"How to build" Max-Performance Mitsubishi 4G63 engines, by Robert Bowen (and Robert Garcia of Road Race Engineering RRE)

Engine Airflow by Harold Bettes

Don't worry about it, honestly. 55 Gallon drums you'll burn through like its going out of style. You'd be lucky to get 1000 miles out one drum in the city. Stick with making power the old fashioned way and enjoy yourself.

Maintenance isn't bad IMO since I do all the labor myself. Any up charges are entirely my fault. Let me list what I go through right quick.

Bi-Annual snapshot, timing belt

• Timing Belt $106.66 - Regular alternative $25.17
  
• Balance Shaft Belt // Deleted Balance Shafts - Regular Alternative $13.68
  
• Accessory Belt $48.44 - Regular Alternative $23.67
  
• Hydraulic Tensioner
  
• Accessory Tensioner
  
• Balance Shaft Tensioner
  
• etc etc
  
  My biggest reoccuring annual expense is tire wear. My Hankook RS-3's used to get about 14k miles per set (200hp ago), but I'm moving back to the midwest so I will have dedicated winter set of rims (17" Volks) and a dedicated summer-powwwwahahhhh rims (18" Enkei). You could of course go with much less ridiculous tires that have some moderation in wear, and save big.
  
  Fluids for the drivetrain can all be sourced from Amazon (Redline Fluids here) and I try to change out every 6 months, spring and fall at $50-80 a go.
  
  I actually have a very large google spreadsheet that breaks down every cost I've had minus fuel / routine oil since I purchased the car if you're interested in seeing the madness.

Yeah. Ceramic is AWESOME. I was using mother's ceramic during the summer, but got a line up on another product on early release / testing... here's what I currently use & absolutely love it.

https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-53409-Solutions-Coating-16/dp/B07XYPS3PS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=turtle+wax+ceramic&qid=1573960471&sprefix=turtle+wax&sr=8-3

I love my TurboXS. Only complaint was that it was a tad loud (especially at freeway cruise speed), but after installing one of these, it's perfect.

Hmmm...any ODB2 reader should connect to the ecu and read the code.

I bought this one in Amazon, but you need an Android. Works great and I can get live data in my 2011 Lancer ES

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Wireless-Bluetooth-Diagnostic/dp/B005NLQAHS?ref_=ast_bbp_dp

Not true at all. They sell a tool at any auto parts store that cleans the lead off of battery terminals and the battery hook up cable on the car. It's only like 5 bucks.

Edit: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0050SFU4I/ref=mp_s_a_1_51?qid=1420588902&sr=8-51&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

Get that Op and clean the terminals and battery cables. Then recharge your battery.

http://www.amazon.com/Akebono-ACT924-ProACT-Ultra-Premium-Ceramic/dp/B000IY3KJQ/ref=sr_1_209?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1407994443&sr=1-209 these look like the right ones?

Used these parts:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003B01AHS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_J4zPwbXMRS8WJ


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008219OQ0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_y.zPwb5VZZ0RN

Following this video:

https://youtu.be/wmqZkw8hK7M



Only thing I did differently was use the dash mountable female 3.5mm jack, I just drilled a hole through plastic on the face plate, making sure not to hit the PCB

this is what I bought

When you pull out the stock stereo you should see a large round plug with 7 prongs. If you see this, then you have the infinity sound system. If not, then you don't have it.

This is all you need if you don't have the infinity sound system.
This should be all you need if you do have the infinity sound system.

https://www.amazon.com/Blackout-Headlights-2008-2017-Mitsubishi-Lancer/dp/B071ZGV3FB/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536120622&sr=8-3&keywords=lancer%2Baudi%2Bheadlights&th=1

Sorry I forgot the link:
https://www.amazon.com/Vland-Headlights-2008-2017-Mitsubishi-Lancer/dp/B071ZGV3FB

I had a similar issue with my 2010 lancer.

my car would idle low & struggle to stay on.

It died twice while I was reverse parking.

I cleaned the mass air flow sensor with this but its too early to tell if that did anything.

Also found this video, hope it helps.