Top products from r/originalxbox
We found 244 product mentions on r/originalxbox. We ranked the 173 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
1. StarTech.com IDE to SATA Hard Drive or Optical Drive Adapter Converter - 40-Pin PATA to 2.5" SATA HDD / SSD / ODD Converter (IDE2SAT2)
Sentiment score: 22
Number of reviews: 24
Connect your SATA Hard Drive or Blu-ray/DVD/CD-ROM Drive to an IDE motherboardIDE to SATA AdapterIDE to SATA ConverterATA to SATA AdapterPATA to SATA Converter
2. 24" 40-Pin 80-Wire Ultra ATA 2-Drive Ribbon Cable, Manhattan 332781
Sentiment score: 9
Number of reviews: 13
24" Ultra IDE 80-Wire Ribbon Cable3 Connectors for 2 DevicesFor Ultra ATA/100, Ultra ATA/66, Ultra ATA/33 and DMA, and with EIDE/IDE hard drives & CD-ROM drives
3. HDE 2 Pack IDE/EIDE/PATA Computer to SATA Hard Drive Interface Adapter PC Mac
Sentiment score: 6
Number of reviews: 12
Please Note: SATA II/III drives may not be supported, PATA / IDE connections do not support full SATA speed and may result in slower drive read / write timesAdapter allows you to connect newer style SATA drives to older computers that only support PATA / IDE connectionsBoard features one female SATA...
4. SanDisk Cruzer Blade 4GB USB 2.0 Flash drive- SDCZ50-004G
Sentiment score: 9
Number of reviews: 11
Keep your digital world in your pocket in our smallest packageTransfer and share photos, videos, songs and other files between computers with easeStore more with capacities up to 16GBWorry not because your SanDisk Cruzer Blade USB flash drive is backed by a 2-year warrantySanDisk Cruzer Blade USB fl...
5. POUND HD Link Cable for Original Xbox System
Sentiment score: 7
Number of reviews: 11
Comes with everything you need to connect your Original Xbox system to your television via HDMI【No adapters or power supplies needed!】While not typically necessary, in some instances providing power via micro USB cable can improve picture quality.【Maximum possible video quality】 Video qualit...
6. SATA to PATA/IDE Hard Drive Interface Adapter
Sentiment score: 4
Number of reviews: 10
Convert hard drive interfaces to work with newer/older systemsSupports ATA 100/133Converts Parallel ATA(PATA, ATA, IDE) to Serial ATA (SATA)Converts SATA to PATA/ATA/IDE/EIDE1 x SATA port, 1 x PATA port (40-pin IDE), 1 4-pin power connector (Molex)
7. Nexus 70mm Real Silent Case Fan
Sentiment score: 11
Number of reviews: 9
Acoustic Noise: 19.8 dB(A)Airflow: 21.1 CFM3-pin FanWarranty: 3 yearsDimensions : 70 x 70 x 25 mm
8. CableWholesale Ultra ATA 100/133 IDE Cable, 2 Device, IDC 40 (80 Conductor), 24 Inch
Sentiment score: 3
Number of reviews: 9
End 1: IDC 40 Female portEnd 2: 2 IDC 40 Female portWire gauge: 30 AWGMeets or exceeds all safety requirements and is both UL and rohs-rated
9. NEORTX USB Adapter Cable for Xbox (Black)
Sentiment score: 5
Number of reviews: 6
USB to Xbox Converter Adapter Cable Cord Compatible for Microsoft Old Generation Xbox Console.Connect any USB device to your XBOX console. Compatible USB hardware to your Microsoft Xbox First Generation console.USB Type A Female socket allows you to connect any USB device to game console.Hook up com...
10. Silver-Plated HDTV High-Definition TV Component Cable for Xbox (Bulk Packaging)
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 6
Comes with all inputs required for high definition view!Requires the correct inputs for high definition view!Wire is sturdy and well made, will last over time!The cable is 6 feet in length!
11. Kingwin SSD/SATA to IDE Bridge Board Adapter, Convert All SATA Devices Easily to IDE. Support 2.5 Inch, 3.5 Inch HDD, & Compatible w/ SATA I/II/III Hard Drives
Sentiment score: 2
Number of reviews: 5
Convert all SATA devices to IDEData transfer rate up to 3.0 GbpsTwo LED indicators for "power on" (green) and "HDD" (red)
12. WD Blue 2TB PC Hard Drive - 5400 RPM Class, SATA 6 Gb/s, , 64 MB Cache, 3.5" - WD20EZRZ (Old Version)
Sentiment score: 6
Number of reviews: 5
Reliable everyday ComputingWd quality and reliabilityFree Acronis True Image WD Edition cloning softwareMassive capacities up to 6 TB available2-Year manufacturer's limited
14. StarTech.com 18in Dual Drive Ultra ATA IDE Hard Drive Cable - IDE / EIDE cable - UDMA 66/100 - 40 pin IDC (F) to 40 pin IDC (F) - 1.6 ft - IDE66,Gray
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 4
Cost-effective solution for connecting two ATA 66/100/133 drives to a computer IDE port, as Master and Slave drivesUDMA 66/10040 pin IDC (F) to 40 pin IDC (F)1.6 ftfor P/N: USB2SATAIDEU
15. Ketofa 10 Pack Genuine Replacement Square Drive Belts for XBOX 360 Optical DVD Drive Repair Stuck Tray (SBS Square Type, Bulk Lot of 10 belts)
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 2
As required, these are SBS Square type belts for all XBOX 360 drivesOur belts are made of high quality rubberTheir quality exceeds cheap generic beltsUsed to fix the Stuck Tray, Open Tray and Sticky Tray issues due to a stretched or worn out factoryThis belt upgrades the previous belt and will not s...
16. Xbox Component Video Cable
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 2
Model XGL-400 Nitrogen injected dielectric delivers maximum video signal strength for the clearest, sharpest picture possible.10 ft. extra-long length lets you play anywhere without controller extension cables.5-in-1 cable design is simple to hook up.24k gold contact connectors ensure optimum video ...
17. Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX, Premium Quiet Fan, 3-Pin (40x10mm, Brown)
Sentiment score: 4
Number of reviews: 2
Premium quiet fan, 40x40x10 mm, 12V, 3-pin Molex, 4500/3700 RPM, max. 17.9 dB(A), >150,000 h MTTFAward-winning 40x10mm A-series fan with Flow Acceleration Channels and Advanced Acoustic Optimisation frame for superior quiet cooling performanceIdeal replacement for noisy or broken 12V 4cm fans in 3D ...
18. Portta YPbPr Component RGB + R/L to HDMI Converter v1.3 up Scaler for 720p 1080p support DVD Player PS4 Xbox
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 2
Up-scales Component Video to HDMI 720P or 1080P; Supports Component Input: 480i/p(60Hz), 576i/p(50hz), 720p(50/60Hz), 1080i/p(50/60Hz)Supports HDMI Output: 720P/60Hz, 1080P/60Hz;Auto-store setting of output resolutionPlease Note: Kindly refer the User Manual before use. 1.Please try different resolu...
19. Xbox Original GhostCase Kit - Crystal Clear
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 2
20. Western Digital WD2500JB 250GB UDMA/100 7200RPM 8MB IDE HDD
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 2
Western Digital Caviar SE 250 GB IDE Hard Drive General Features: 250 GB formatted capacity UDMA/1007200 RPM spindle speed 8 MB buffer 8.9 ms average seek time 4.2 ms average latency 3.5-inch form facE-IDE/ATAPI interface Regulatory Approvals: UL CE C-Tick MIC BSMI
First of all, before anything else, the single most important thing to take care of is to identify which revision your Xbox is. If it is not a v1.6/v1.6b, you MUST open it and remove the clock capacitor IMMEDIATELY! If you don't, it will destroy the motherboard.
Now, onto your questions:
Make sure you softmod with JCRocky5's Xbox Softmodding Tool though. Stay away from all the older softmods that you'll see being used in YouTube tutorials and the like. This one has a way more straightforward installation procedure and is much better overall. Plus it has a much cleaner look and is still regularly updated. Once you have installed this softmod, run the included NKpatcher Settings application and null your EEPROM's HDD key.
If your Xbox is a 1.0-1.5, you should also upgrade to a hardmod, by doing a TSOP flash, which will replace the original BIOS with a much better one, making the Xbox even better than it is with just a softmod.
Halo=3.4GB, Halo 2=4.4GB, GTA San An=2.9GB, DJFFNY=2.8GB, SW KOTOR=3.7GB, Battle for Bikini Bottom=1.7GB. I'd say average is maybe 2 to 3.5GB. All these sizes I listed are in xbe format, ftp'd to hdd.
I put a 2TB in mine, and I can now see it was overkilll for what I wanted. I have a few more modded xbox's I'm gonna upgrade soon, and planned on going with 500GB, but the 1TB is only a few bucks more, so I'm gonna do that.
I used these parts...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013QFRS2S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EOJNGC2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003IDF0JC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The adapter comes with a molex splitter, so you dont need to buy one if you go that route. I've read that the HDE adapter also works, but is 50/50 on if you get a working one, so that's the only reason I went with Startech. I'm very happy with that 80 wire cable, also. Before ordering, I read countless reviews of other cables being crap, and not being a tight connection, or even having a connector that works. This one is awesome, its a little snug, and hard to bend, but I eventually got it in there and look semi professional. The 3 connectors are spaced a little weird for xbox, so you can only use it one way, and just barely have enough spacing between the hdd cradle and dvd drive. The cable is very firm, I was worried it was going to be low quality, but its nice.
Here is an outdated upgraded hdd list to browse through... http://xboxdrives.x-pec.com/?p=list
Next time, I'm gonna try the WD10EZEX. I've read it works fine.
I have the following games installed and am only using 94.2GB.
GB-569, GBA-1140, GBC-564, N64-212, GENESIS-810, NES-820, SNES-787, XBOX-27, PSX-5.
Since this is my main xbox, I'm gonna eventually load it down with as many original xbox titles as I can find. After that, I've read that CoinOps and Final Burn are worth checking out, so thats also on the list. Once I find out the games I like, I'm gonna make the 1TB purely for games I enjoy, nothing extra. I do love the Favorites tab in Rocky's Emustation, makes finding a game you love out of thousands very easy.
I haven't found out how to get the PSX games to show up in emustation yet, but I know it has to do with the bin/cue area. The bin's are large files, but the cues are only 1kb. I think I saw Rocky post somewhere saying you have to load from cue's, but I'm not sure how.
If you are into N64 at all, check out EarthWormJames' 212 pack. Very sweet. I can link you in pm if needed.
Well I figured I would check in and post my results for the next guy/gal that comes along googling for a solution while this is all still fresh in my mind. After changing to the SATA to IDE adapter suggested by mikeaton, all of my problems went 'poof'. I must conclude that the Kingwin adapters I originally tried are indeed junk, and I am sure I won't be the last to try these since there is a tutorial out there that is front and center on Google that touts these drives as ones that work (it's why I ordered them originally).
So to summarize: buy this exact one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008X8NK0I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_t0GCzbVHBCMHM
Then buy one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000511TN/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Make sure you also have a SATA drive and a molex splitter to power both drives at once
Once you have those, install the new Ribbon cable (to make these work, you will have to install the cable backwards so the blue end that normally plugs into the motherboard is actually plugged into your Xbox HDD: this is just fine and it totally works). You will also have to get creative about how to fold the cable. Mine is crumpled and looks pretty terrible but it works so I am ok with it.
Take your sweet SATA to IDE Adapter, and change the jumper so it's in Slave mode rather than Master. Install your molex power splitter so you can power both the original HDD and the new one at the same time. Boot up your softmodded Xbox, FTP the latest version of Chimp over to your E drive (it seems to specifically need to be run from the apps folder on your E drive rather than the F drive). Don't forget to push over the linuxboot.cfg file to the root of E as well. Then simply swap the ribbon cable from the DVD drive over to your new drive with the Xbox powered up. If XBMC freezes (or whatever dash you have) it probably means your drive is not in Slave mode and is probably set to Master or Cable Select). If you make the swap and things seem to be unaffected, launch Chimp, choose FATX, and away you go! Once you are done cloning, make sure to lock the slave drive to the motherboard. Shut down the Xbox. Take the new HDD and change the jumper back so that it is master. Remove stock HDD and put the new HDD in it's place. Boot and test.
Boom. Home for dinner.
At this point, I suppose you will still want to create your partitions. I used XBPartitioner1.3 (again, just FTP'd it over and ran it from the apps folder on E) and used that to create an F and G drive that basically split up what was left of the 2 TB's evenly between the two. Just read what you are doing and you should be fine.
Big thanks to those that responded with help: I think it speaks a lot about the people here that I didn't get a ton of flack for asking a question and instead got quick (and useful) advice on how to get around the issues I was having. Thank you so much!
Also note that you’ll need a data adapter to use the drive. I recommend this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EOJNGC2/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1522885867&sr=8-11&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=startech+sata+adapter
Also will need a Molex Y power splitter and an 80 wire ide cable (upgraded from the stock 40 pin) Everything all together should be around $75.
I reccomend using Chimp to clone your hard drive since you have a 1.6 and can’t tsop. I watched this video and it told me everything I needed:
https://youtu.be/lBC9599ww6I
Number 4 I’ll let someone more experienced help on.
I can't comment on a fan with LEDs, but this fan fits and is super quiet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003PNLRLU - see/hear it in action here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kkiX-0qyWNY
LEDs for the case: a standard roll of 12v LEDs with adhesive on the back are an easy route to take. That's what I used here: https://i.imgur.com/ueHbo1V.jpg
Controller port LEDs: 5mm 5v LEDs are common. You can wire them into the 5v USB power that's available in each port and use a resistor to bring it down to the exact power you need. End result will be something like this: https://i.imgur.com/s4c1wrC.jpg https://i.imgur.com/V5k0brx.jpg
Something I've done a few times is use 3mm 3.3v bi-color LEDs, similar to what is used in the power/eject board and wire them up to the power/eject board's leads on the underside of the motherboard. This makes it so the controller port LED colors change with the power/eject ring, which looks awesome (https://i.imgur.com/Jdv0A8O.jpg). This doesn't always work though because not all motherboards provide enough power to the 3v line (especially for blue colored LEDs), so idk if I'd recommend this particular method because it's not possible on all motherboards. https://i.imgur.com/43u4GYF.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Z1q0nsV.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ecy40uS.jpg
To upgrade the softmod, use this Quick Upgrade from Rocky5's Softmodding Tool. You just FTP it to your the root of the E partition and run the default.xbe file. If you haven't nulled your EEPROM, you need to do that as well so if the HDD dies, you can easily replace it. You can run Rocky5's Softmodding Tool Extras Disc from your HDD or use ConfigMagic to do that.
Also, if you have a SATA HDD dock or some kind of SATA to USB adapter, nulling the EEPROM would allow you to easily build an upgrade HDD on your PC for the Xbox. You may even be able to hook the HDD directly into another slot in your computer, but I can't remember. I want to say yes on that though. Anyway, you'd use XboxHDM2USB beta 3 to do that.
OR, you can use Chimp 261812 to clone your HDD to a larger one. You will need a molex splitter, IDE to SATA adapter; this one is recommended a lot but others work too. And you will need a 40-pin 80 wire IDE cable; 24 inches is recommended. You'll boot you Xbox as normal, load Chimp, and it will tell you when to hot swap the DVD drive with your HDD you're upgrading to. It's pretty straightforward.
As for the DVD drive, they are interchangeable between Xbox consoles and are not locked to the motherboard. I don't know much about those, but you can try cleaning the laser or adjusting it doing a laser pot tweak. I think that's what it's called. Someone more knowledgeable than me can chime in on that.
And lastly, since it's pretty much obligatory here, remove the clock capacitor in your Xbox if it hasn't been removed and your Xbox isn't a revision 1.6 or 1.6/b.
Full imgur album
So, this was my dream machine I built back in the day. I had it sprayed at an autobody place and went crazy with blue LEDs. It has the 10GB harddrive and the better DVDrom drive (the one that can read CDrs too). I found it in my mom's basement recently after my girlfriend and I bought our own house and I figured it was time to get my old stuff out. I forgot how much work I put into this thing, but all is not right. I have taken it apart and desoldered the clock capacitor but it used to have a X2.6 mod chip that no longer functions. I think the front panel got ripped off. Also it looks like the X2.6 needs a trace resoldered.
Unfortunately I recently was hit with 2nd and 3rd degree burns to my dominant hand and I'm not sure how well I can solder anymore. I think I can fix the X2.6 but the wiring from the X2.6 to the front bank selector might be out of my skill set now.
I have also lost all my games (including mech assault and action replay I used on my friends xboxes).
I have ordered a Pound HDMI adapter and a IDE->SATA adapter
The only piece I can not find is the cable from the x2.6 to the front bank selector so I am stuck with the only disk that was left in the machine, Halo 2. I would love to upgrade the disk and put backups on it. I am not trying to pirate as I weirdly have all the game boxes just lost the CD holder that contained the actual disks!
Any help would be much appreciated. Should I buy a new IDE drive or use one of the many SATA HDD / SSDs I have laying around. I don't have a ton of money but it would be cool to get this up in running and have all three generations working in my new entertainment center!
Thanks!
I've definitely heard of Noctua and know they make good stuff, there wouldn't be any issues running an aftermarket fan like fan (like RPM or etc)?
I looked around a bit and saw one or two forum posts mentioning specs for replacing it, it looks like it is a 12V 40x10mm fan so this would be the Notcua equivalent I'm guessing
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M#customerReviews
The adapter has jumper settings for master/slave/and cable select. When cloning your original drive you'll want to set the adapter to slave. You'll also need an 80 wire IDE cable. Using the original 40 wire cable doesn't work with SATA drives.
Lastly you'll need a molex Y splitter to power both hard drives at the same time while cloning. Also make sure you have an original Microsoft controller. I've heard 3rd party controllers don't work with Chimp, though I can't verify this since all my controllers are Microsoft S controllers.
You can use a program called Chimp to clone the drive. I've never done it, so I don't know exactly what to do, but there is a link in the sidebar to all of the tutorials.
Another way to do it is with XboxHDM. After zeroing your HDD key (if you haven't done that already), FTP the EEPROM file, and the C and E partitions to your PC and put them in the right folder for XboxHDM. Then you can build a Linux ISO to burn to a CD or put onto another bootable media. You can slap a drive into a PC and boot into that special Linux to create an HDD locked to your Xbox.
EDIT: Since you're using a SATA drive, you'll want this IDE to SATA converter. The Xbox is finicky for some reason with converters, but this one is recommended by the tutorial guide.
You'll also need an 24 inch 80 conductor IDE cable. The one in the original Xbox is only a 40 conductor cable, which apparently causes issues/slower speeds with SATA drives.
As others have said, it really is easy even for a novice. You do need Torx T10/T15/T20 screw heads to open the Xbox though. The only mistake you can really make is removing the wrong cap, but there's plenty of images/videos to help with identifying the right one. Replacing the fan is also straightforward, you just have to be careful releasing the clips holding the fan in place. I recommend this fan as it fits without needing any case modification:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Nexus-70mm-Real-Silent-Case/dp/B003PNLRLU
The fan I ordered was this one:
Nexus 70mm Real Silent Case Fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003PNLRLU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_e.lUDbDH6VYY3
It's been working great for me and the only modification I made was using small zipties to attach the top two corners to the metal casing, aside from that it's plug and play.
> This is the adapter I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EOJNGC2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Excellent, those red StarTechs are much more reliable.
> I'm sure this would all turn out fine if I could just get something to boot.
I suppose the question is, is there anything of value to you that's currently only stored on the original HDD?
That's cool - it's time to start moving away from the IDE drives tho... you'll be able to get newer, larger (2TB), and more reliable drives with SATA for a cheaper price.
Here's the recommended adapter for when you one day do that:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EOJNGC2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_A7l7Cb9J9WDGZ
Best of luck!
Just done my first hard drive upgrade (and aged about 10 years in the process). I bought two adapters, the red StarTech one:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00EOJNGC2/ref=pe_3187911_185740111_TE_item
And this green one branded "VGEBY":
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06XW6LN6T/ref=pe_3187911_185740111_TE_item
Long story short, the StarTech would boot to stock dash, but the DVD drive would no longer load any games. Tried with 40 and 80 wire IDE cables. Xbox just said it couldn't recognise the disk. The green one works perfectly with an 80 wire cable. Avoid the StarTech.
2TB WD Green
80 wire IDE
Disk prepared in Windows 10 using a USB to SATA enclosure and running xboxhdm23usb.
If the Xbox is hardmodded (chipped) or TSOP flashed, it is not as hard to swap the hard drive. The main issue with softmodded Xboxes is that the HDDs (which use an old IDE standard) are locked with a "password" that's stored on the Xbox's motherboard.
If the Xbox is softmodded, the exploit isn't capable of telling the Xbox to boot like normal if the hard drive password doesn't match.
If the Xbox is hardmodded, it might be patched to handle all types of hard drives. All I believe you need to do is replace the hard drive then boot the Xbox with a burned copy of Hexen to install the necessary Xbox software and the modded dashboard.
Someone with more (meaning any) experience with hardmodded Xboxes can probably give you a software solution to figure out what type of mod is on it.
Regardless of how it is modded, I highly suggest that you try to upgrade the hard drive yourself. If it's softmodded, look up CHIMPS. You'll need different size Torx screw drivers (T20, T15, and T10) and a Molex y-splitter to power two hard drives at once. Also, an 80 pin IDE cable speeds up transfers like crazy (and game load times). If your bigger hard drive has a SATA connector, you'll need a SATA to IDE adapter.
​
This subreddit is very dedicated to modding these consoles, and we'd all love to help you figure this out, especially over a game as great as Shenmue 2. Feel free to DM me if you take the red pill. Don't worry if you don't know too much about computers and modding. I heard a quote today, "Knowledge is useful, but grit acquires it." If you want to figure out how to do this, it's very possible.
I have a 1.0 board and I removed the gpu fan and replaced the rear fan with this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003PNLRLU/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8
Can’t even hear it running anymore and the fan fit perfectly no modification
I personally have had no issues with this HDE adapter. This adapter is pretty fast too along with an 80-wire ribbon cable. This ribbon cable has been recommended many times to me and has been working great. The adapter is $8 and the cable is $6 with free shipping included at this time.
THIS didn't work
THIS worked perfectly
Using a 500GB WD Blue btw
I would really encourage you to think about upgrading the hard drive after you softmod it. Playing backed games on discs can get expensive since most of the games are 6gb+. Even a 80gb IDE drive would be a massive help!
The hardest part of modding is finding a flash drive that works.
What you will need.
Flash Drive (should work)
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Cruzer-Blade-drive-SDCZ50-004G/dp/B002U213Y8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1539785044&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=sandisk+cruzer+blade+4gb&dpPl=1&dpID=411nUnjz9eL&ref=plSrch
Usb to xbox controller port
https://www.amazon.com/Mcbazel-Xbox-Converter-Adapter-Original-Console/dp/B076HHZ41Z/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1539784602&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=xbox+controller+to+usb+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=41y27JttbeL&ref=plSrch#
Sata to IDE adapter (If you upgrade hard drive)
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Drive-Optical-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00EOJNGC2/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1539784695&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=sata+to+ide+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=51styPntUEL&ref=plSrch
80 connector IDE cable
https://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Cable-Device-Conductor-inch/dp/B000I21Y28/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1539784965&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=80+connector+IDE+cable&dpPl=1&dpID=41gZKwD33jL&ref=plSrch
Use the Rocky 5 mod and youtube tutorial and you will be fine!
An IDE to SATA adapter, so you can use a hard drive or SSD that isn't 10+ years old and ready to kick the bucket.
I've had good luck using this one, just make sure you also replace the ribbon cable with an 80-conductor cable.
Buy this one, and see if it alleviates the problems.. if not return it.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Drive-Optical-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00EOJNGC2/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1542770079&sr=1-3&keywords=startech+ide+sata
​
Look at this picture on that ebay page, does that inspire confidence in what they're selling ?
​
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/5gwAAOSwEARbIPnJ/s-l1600.jpg
​
These are almost 100% made from salvaged parts /capacitors.
I've used one before to test image quality before and after. I'll didn't find a noticable improvement so I ended up selling it. It still works great as a solution for HDMI only TV's.
Portta YPbPr Component RGB + R/L to HDMI Converter v1.3 up Scaler for 720p 1080p support DVD Player PS4 Xbox
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ATNIFPA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZhYFzbTJGYAYQ
Essentially, yes. It might work without it after upgrading, but it improves performance and guarantees it will work. Just grab it, its 5 bucks.
https://amazon.com/dp/B000I21Y28/
Make sure to get the 24 inch one and fold it according to this:
http://web-nine.com/projects/xbox/ide/
If you can stand waiting a bit, this would be your best bet:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B076J9TNCD/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They are revising it due to a bug they found when connected to certain modded xboxes and Rev 1.4 boxes. I have one and it works fantastic. If you search around here there was a review by Metal Jesus that talks about video quality and the minimal frame loss.
I've used similar upscalers like you linked to and they were all garbage. Can't speak to the specific one you linked, but I'd look for a different solution.
Was going to recommend a main fan replacement as well, it makes a huge difference.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003PNLRLU/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073CKHX7X/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Is the IDE cable I went with, it does seem to have 80 pins when I look at it.
I'll try connecting the sata drive with the ide adapter to a pc in the meantime to see what happens.
EDIT: My BIOS sees the xbox hd connected to the pc's IDE port. Macrinum Reflect doesn't see the drive though, but it's there in device manager. I tried to boot clonezilla from the PC and I just got ATA errors and I couldn't go anywhere. The xbox drive is good as it works just fine with the xbox transferring files via FTP.
I tried the sata drive with the IDE adapter attatched and the computer doesn't see it. I'm going to go with this startech adapter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EOJNGC2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 before I try the TSOP mod.
Thanks guys
Sounds like it's worth a go. Though there's also a link in there to Amazon US that has the Pound cable from what looks to be the official seller and will ship to the UK, and is £35 so a bit cheaper than eBay (Though still more than the original cable I was looking at). Quite tempted to go for it to be honest...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D19QQHW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I don't remember, it's been a while lol
From what I remember, you should be able to take any old USB cable, like a printer USB A to B cable, hack the end off, solder it in, and then plug it into something like this.
https://smile.amazon.com/NEORTX-Adapter-Cable-Xbox-Black/dp/B00SMCJB4Y/
I replaced my fan with the one below. It is very quiet, fits nicely, and cools as well as the old.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/
I'd recommend this so you don't need to do anything special other than get zip ties to hold the fan down.
Also $58 Amazon WD Blue 2TB 2TB here
Very strange, I have used multiple different SATA drives(SSD/SSHD/HDD) and converters and never really had an issue.
I can tell you from my own experience that these converters work perfectly:
More expensive Delock
http://www.delock.de/produkte/S_61702/merkmale.html?setLanguage=en
And Cheaper chinese generic
ttps://www.ebay.com/itm/PATA-IDE-TO-SATA-Converter-Adapter-Plug-Play-7-15-Pin-3-5-2-5-SATA-HDD-DVD-VM-/253335440412
Other people have had good results with the Startech, uses the same chip as the Delock.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Drive-Optical-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00EOJNGC2
It's from Kingwin and several people said that it was a good adapter with no complaints. I put an order in for an 80 wire cable and it should be in by Tuesday. (Thank goodness for Amazon Prime's free 2-day delivery)
Here's a link to the exact one that I ordered. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SZDOM6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_t74ZBbP338XSR
I have two of these and have found the picture quality is excellent. A must buy if you do original xbox gaming.
https://www.amazon.com/HD-Link-Cable-Original-Xbox-System/dp/B07D19QQHW
Pound Technology HD Link Cable for Original Xbox v2
It's sold through Amazon for $29.99 when in stock - just checked and Amazon states in stock.
You can find on eBay too but sometimes at a much higher price. :)
Protips:
Here's some cheap, compact SATA/UATA adapters that fit well in the Xbox: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JVUXMRI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Additionally, you're going to want to get a 80-wire IDE cable to avoid any issues with the install (I usually use a 24-inch one, and attach the opposite end into the mobo and do a folding trick to get it to all line up). Also, on the v1.0-1.5 boxes that I use SATA drives with, I install IND-Bios 5004, as it avoid erroring out when booting up with a SATA drive.
Edit: Sorry! I didn't see the whole "softmod and v1.6" in the original post! My bad, OP!
Good luck!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008X8NK0I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_o7tpzb55FSXNT
Looks a lot like the one I listed from Ebay. I ordered it anyways -- but hopefully it works!
I bought these ones, and they work great for me! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F2JUOK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I am using one of those green boards I bought on amazon pata to sata
https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Computer-Drive-Interface-Adapter/dp/B008X8NK0I
the model of my hard drive is
WD20EZRZ-00Z5HB0
I am unsure of my bios, I have the latest version of hexen but I can look if it is necessary
I have tried a 250gb IDE drive with the 80 cable and it worked like a charm
the 2tb does indeed work on my laptop with sata to usb
I am not sure why I can't get it to boot. I also have 4 xboxes hard modded now, 3 are TSOP and one is a mod chip
In all seriousness, I (plus many other people here) would just recommend installing a big HDD and using that to play games.
Here's what I've used:
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Cache-Desktop-Drive-WD10EZEX/dp/B0088PUEPK/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=WD+Caviar+Blue&qid=1550341281&s=gateway&sr=8-1
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Drive-Optical-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00EOJNGC2/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3FG5A4UU7UKTH&keywords=startech+ide+to+sata+adapter&qid=1550341294&s=gateway&sprefix=Startech+IDE+t%2Caps%2C147&sr=8-3
https://www.amazon.com/SIENOC-wire-Drive-Ribbon-Cable/dp/B0126SUXAK/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=80+wire+IDE&qid=1550341366&s=gateway&sr=8-3
This is what I use. It works like a charm and is cheap.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000F2JUOK?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title
The pound cable is $30. Gives you near component quality. Especially if your TV only has HDMI inputs. It's the simplest set up, and usually regarded as one of the best options.
https://www.amazon.com/POUND-Link-Cable-Original-System-microsoft/dp/B07D19QQHW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=xbox+pound+hdmi&qid=1563711008&s=gateway&sprefix=xbox+pound+&sr=8-1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002U213Y8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Bought this recently and can confirm it's a 4gb USB that works great for softmodding.
This is what I bought and it works beautifully on my OG Xbox; even before I softmodded it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D19QQHW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I typically use thesefor an xbox upgrade.
WD Blue 2TB PC Hard Drive - 5400 RPM
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JC1TQ7N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cKiZDbW5GMPTQ
HDE 2 Pack IDE/EIDE/PATA to SATA adapter
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JVUXMRI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WLiZDbC9A0HJM
CablesOnline 30-inches 40-Pin (80-Wire) Ultra ATA
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KRPJ128/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PMiZDb2VR5WHB
Hey! I got it on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Xbox-Original-GhostCase-Kit-Crystal-Clear/dp/B007QUD5EA/ref=sr_1_2?crid=29E4NUR3ZDB51&keywords=original+xbox+ghost+case&qid=1573597867&sprefix=original+xbox+ghost+case%2Caps%2C158&sr=8-2
Or you can get a used shell for like $17. I actually bought one of them from this seller:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Housing-Body-Shell-Power-button-ports-connect-Screw-Fan-for-Original-XBOX-2004/163606700532?hash=item2617b821f4:g:BGUAAOSwyXVbX59F
Just use the base from your current consoles, as they vary throughout the revisions (v1.6 motherboard won't fit in previous revisions without modifying a mounting pad).
I replaced it with [this] (https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesales-Ultra-Cable-Device-Conductor/dp/B000I21Y28/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1492923123&sr=8-2&keywords=ide+cable) and I can play emulators like normal. I am just having some issues with the disk drive now.
I guess you're right, pretty much all of the drives i've found are old/expensive. Do you reckon that these would do the job?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Drive-3-Connector-Ribbon-Cable-Yellow/dp/B016EILOTM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1473009164&sr=8-5&keywords=80+pin+ide
https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-Pin-PATA-SATA-Adapter/dp/B00EOJNGC2/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1473008959&sr=8-18&keywords=sata+ide+adapter
Sorry for not making sense, I made this post when I was way too tired and I'm an idiot.
Yes, I mean COMPONENT cables. I have these cables and they look like they are in great condition. However, I get no signal on my TV when I plug them in. Strangely though my TV recognizes a component source is plugged in, but just doesn't give any picture or sound. The Xbox works perfectly fine with regular AV cables.
I figure either the cables are just broken, or my TV is too new and doesn't accept the lower resolution of the old Xbox.
Also, the monster cables have Green, Blue, Red, Blue, Red ends on them, while my tv has Yellow/Green, Blue, Red, White, Red inputs. Anyone know what that's about?
Replce the fan
Nexus 70mm Real Silent Case Fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003PNLRLU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9ILqDb2XB55C0
I also bought the HDE two pack. My experience has been:
Buy 2TB WD Blue drive. This works and locked successfully, after I got through the adapter issues below, on a 1.1 Xbox.
HEXIN - Freezes drive security (can't lock/unlock), and Chimp can't see it. Might work with an external USB enclosure, but I don't have one to test with. Works fine after you get the drive locked, though I had to use the 40-pin IDE cables for some reason, otherwise I get Error 13.
Startech - Chimp saw this, so I was able to clone my existing drive and lock it, but it refused to start, giving me Error 07 with both the 40- and 80-pin cables.
HDE - Bought these after the Startech didn't work. I don't know if they freeze the drive security like the HEXIN did, but they also give me Error 07 with both cables when trying to start the Xbox.
So to summarize, I had to use the Startech adapter to clone and lock it, and the HEXIN adapter with the 40-pin cable to have it boot.
Also this is the comment someone else referenced containing the link to HDE. Since the Ebay page doesn't exist anymore, people buy the HDE adapters.
this is the one i used Nexus 70mm It's swap in swap out. This fan is also 3 pin, yes. I think 70mm is the same as stock. I think you have start cutting the hdd tray if you go bigger.
​
The soldering is really a piece of cake if you have a small tip. It's a few short wires from point to point on the motherboard. I use a flux pen on everything.
I bought these ones on Amazon and they worked well for both my 360 and OG Xbox, though I can’t guarantee that of course.
I used this one less than a month ago and it worked without issue. You can tell by the "frequently bought together" section that other people have used this drive as well ;)
【No adapters or power supplies needed】While not typically necessary, in some instances providing power via micro USB cable can improve picture quality.
The Pound HDMI cable is a nice alternative if you've got an HDMI input.
https://www.amazon.com/POUND-Link-Cable-Original-System-microsoft/dp/B07D19QQHW/
You could also make your own.
http://www.ogxbox.com/forums/index.php?/topic/240-high-quality-diy-component-cable/
Yes Ultra ATA 100/133 IDE Cable, 2 Device, IDC 40 (80 Conductor), 24 inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I21Y28?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
This is the ide I bought
try using an 80 wire ide cable like this one
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003IDF0JC?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2
Something like this? Or this
weird, they usually work if led is on.
but as its that seller id still wager its that still.
​
i get mine from ebay off diff sellers as some update the item to the newer one the chinese are making that doesnt have the master slave jumper pins which i dont want. had one doa out of about six so far, of the older type.. but that amazon seller seems like 50% of his dont work on average atm lol.
​
if you want better quality get the startech one for 15 quid.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Drive-Optical-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00EOJNGC2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=startech+ide+to+sata&qid=1557474690&s=electronics&sr=1-3#customerReviews
​
theres some other higher quality ones around that price too that kaosengineer knows the names off, i'l search for his post quick.
​
did you double check the cable connections and adapto connection to hdd?
​
actually thinking back to the person the other day, both of his were dead too, so i stil bet its the adaptors.
​
also did you check drive in your pc before you put in xbox?
Here's what I bought through Amazon (prices seem to have gone up by a few dollars).
IDE/SATA adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008X8NK0I/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Seagate HDD 2Tb:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IEKG402/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
80 wire IDE ribbon cable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000067SNX/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I actually use Cxboxtool(iirc that's the name) which extracts ISOs and builds a folder for each ISO, then I FTP them to my Xbox using the same program. You can also use an app in a softmodded/TSOPd Xbox to rip your own ISOs.
Well, I'd wait for this to be back in stock.
Here’s the one I got, works fine!
CableWholesale Ultra ATA 100/133 IDE Cable, 2 Device, IDC 40 (80 Conductor), 24 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I21Y28/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hGoSDb2C5G1MF
These two have been confirmed to work by a few people with no issues that I've heard of: Ebay or Amazon
Personally, I use the ebay one. $40 is waaay too much for an adapter. Oh and here's a good 80 pin cable to go with it.
Component cables I bought from Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/Silver-Plated-HDTV-High-Definition-Component-Cable-Packaging/dp/B000F2JUOK
Monster Cable ones. They must be higher quality.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/Original-Microsoft-XBOX-Monster-Component-Video-Cable-Gold-Plated-SHIPS-TODAY-/281960169572?nav=SEARCH
Posting again even though I edited my post.... The Sandisk Cruzer Blade 4GB does indeed work.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002U213Y8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1FKZ2EJJ4DP2Q&coliid=ISXTSG04LWJD3&psc=1
Still for sale on Amazon too.
Try amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002U213Y8?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
For anyone else who wants one of these, you can also buy these for about $10 on Amazon:
NEORTX USB Adapter Cable for Xbox (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SMCJB4Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jl17CbPQ70D2T
They have adapters for both male/female connectors.
24 inch length is the one you want. This is the one I got and a lot of the reviews mention Xboxs too. https://amazon.com/gp/product/B000I21Y28/
This will show you how to fold it properly:
http://web-nine.com/projects/xbox/ide/
>Error 13 with the new drive is at least a good sign in that it indicates that the TSOP flash went ahead just fine. I assume you're seeing the purple EvoX shield during the flubber sequence, as well.
That's correct.
>Presumably you're using a PATA to SATA adapter: even if you can confirm that's working in, say, a PC, doesn't mean it'll work in an Xbox. The green ones in particular tend to cause problems (and have been doing so since we first started putting SATA drives in these consoles).
This is the adapter I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EOJNGC2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Additionally, I recently tried a third hard drive, which was IDE and thus did not need an adapter. Error 13. I think we can conclude that the adapter itself is not causing this.
>But the fact that you're unable to boot with the original HDD suggests that something might be up with a PATA socket elsewhere. Inspect all of them for bent pins - especially the sockets on the DVD drive and motherboard. Also try waiting on the Xbox logo longer - it should progress (even if to an error screen) if you wait long enough. Can take up to about a half hour in some cases.
I have not been able to find any bent pins.
>Also try waiting on the Xbox logo longer - it should progress (even if to an error screen) if you wait long enough. Can take up to about a half hour in some cases.
You'd think that, but no. There have been times when I've left the Xbox on that screen for quite a while. Nothing ever happens, except the screen dims a little bit early on. In fact, it's on that screen as we speak. Been there for 10 minutes. I won't touch it for the next hour just so we have definitive data on that point.
>Also check that your HDDs (and adapter if present) are each jumpered as master.
They are. And I have previously tried all the settings on each hard drive, including cable select.
I'm sure this would all turn out fine if I could just get something to boot. The guy in the video (linked in OP) does it. He gets error 13, puts in a Hexen disc, turns it off and on again, and boots fine. I don't understand why I can't do that.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000F2JUOK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501509958&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=xbox+high+definition+av+pack&dpPl=1&dpID=41hJ5ef7odL&ref=plSrch They have these but I don't know the quality.
If you don't need surround sound, this is all you need, my dude!
https://www.amazon.com/Silver-Plated-HDTV-High-Definition-Component-Cable-Packaging/dp/B000F2JUOK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481046692&sr=8-1&keywords=original+xbox+component+cable
Kingwin ADP-06 SATA to IDE Bridge Board https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002SZDOM6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CQgbBb2Y3QT6R
You can buy sata to ide adapters. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002SZDOM6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4BC2Db3ZKAV0Z
You’ll also need to replace the ide cable with an 80 pin cable.
Would these all work in upgrading the HDD?
[HDD on Amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-500GB-Drive-WD5000AAKX-60U6AA0/dp/B00Y3DSLD8/ref=asc_df_B00Y3DSLD8/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309707619534&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3327621541450996635&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9060058&hvtargid=pla-569717086723&psc=1)
40pin 80wire ribbon cable
IDE-SATA Adapter
Molex Y splitter
Here you go. I used this one when I softmodded mine a couple weeks ago
24" 40-Pin 80-Wire Ultra ATA 2-Drive Ribbon Cable, Manhattan 332781 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003IDF0JC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6ipYCb2XZTCHP
This is what I ordered, it just arived today.
https://www.amazon.com/Xbox-Original-GhostCase-Kit-Crystal-Clear/dp/B007QUD5EA
I have this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008X8NK0I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 . I know this one works too, or at least with one of my older computers, and I do have it set to slave
So far, I've been using the stock cable in my setup. With one of these adapters
https://www.amazon.ca/HDE-SATA-Drive-Interface-Adapter/dp/B008X8NK0I
This is the one that usually gets recommended
This one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JVUXMRI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1