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I've posted this several times so I just copied here, if you want more detail please ask and I can provide. The machine I have is a Brother, the link is below. Don't compare the big box Brother to the dealer Brother as they are different.

Do you have a budget? Here is a summary of what I learned while machine shopping. Some manufacturers have different product lines, one for big box stores (JoAnn's, Amazon, WalMart etc) and one for dealers. The main differences are quality and cost. The big box line is going to be cheaper and probably have a bunch of features to make you feel like you are getting your money's worth but the key thing to note here is cheap. The quality won't be there. A big box store Brother or Janome machine would still sew circles around a Singer though.

Singer - They used to be good, they have turned to low quality garbage and aren't worth their weight in gold anymore. Old/vintage ones are still good if you want to check yard sales, estate sales or Craigslist and have an older machine.

Brother - They have the two aforementioned product lines. I've heard good things about the CS6000i regarding good features, solid machine and good value. I ended up with a innov-IS NX570Q which is a dealer line machine. The dealer line is superior to the big box one. It's definitely more heavy duty, has great features including ones I love (knee lift and auto cutter and auto threader) and has never let me down but it is expensive. They do have dealer line machines that are more affordable but not as feature rich. Big box prices are around $100 and dealer is around $400 for a basic machine. Mine was $900.

Pfaff - My local dealer sells both Brother and Pfaff machines. I liked the Pfaff I tested but chose the Brother because for the same money I got the same features plus some extras that I love (knee lift plus auto threader and auto cutter and extension table). To get the same features on the Pfaff brand I would have had to spend a few hundred more dollars. The one I looked at was around $900 price range.

Janome - They have different lines and while I never tested them (closest dealer is 45 min away) I have heard good things about the dealer line and no experience on the big box line. I assume it'd be the same as Brother as they have good reviews. Big box prices are around $200 and dealer prices are around $300/400 for a basic machine.

BabyLock - Some people claim they make Brother machines and Brother is the same quality so they're equal, they aren't. Sure BL makes Brother's machines but they make them to Brother's specs. They do share many similarities between the brands. I have never heard a bad thing about BabyLock and believe they do have great machines but they are strictly dealer only and are pricier than Brother. So if you want Baby Lock but can't afford it go with a Brother similar to the BL you want. Intro machine prices are around $400 for a basic machine.

Bernina - Everyone who has one loves it but they all complain about pricing for accessory feet. They are around $500 for a machine like your $80 Singer. The accessory feet for the brand name are around $100 and I saw a forum pricing the walking foot around $300.

Those are the main machine manufacturers, I'm sure there are plenty of others but you'll likely find those to be the most common brands for dealers in your area.

In summary: determine what you are willing and able to pay for one and check with your local dealers. If you want brand Xyz and don't have a dealer nearby but can order online from a dealer hundreds of miles away go with the dealer close to you, they'll be the ones who would do your warranty repair work if needed and they can provide better service for the machines they sell than they can for other brands. Plus they may offer discounts on accessories if you bought the machine there, mine does that.

TLDR: Singer sucks, Brother and Janome are affordable with quality dealer machines or big box ones. Baby Lock is a little more expensive but are dealer only. Pfaff is also dealer only and more expensive. Bernina is the most expensive for machine and accessory feet but their owners seem to love them. New machine out of your budget? Consider a vintage one.

You're doing way better than you think you are!

I'm probably gonna repeat things other people said but here we go:

1. You should trim the squares before joining them together, that way you know for sure they will match (you need to cut the square by taking the diagonal line on the ruler and using the diagonal line on the sew line so that the square is perfect, that way the diagonal sew line will end directly in the corner of the square, I hope this makes sense lol). Trimming the squares will also make it so you have less fabric overhanging in your edges (but having some is fine, dont worry about that, it all gets sewed up anyways! =P)
   
2. For sewing straight, try not to move the fabric too much and just let machine moving, I realized 90% of the "moving" was actually me, the machine will stay "fairly" straight if you leave it, specially for smaller pieces like we use. I also have a foot that measures 1/4', so as long as the edge of my fabric lines up with the edge of the foot (which is easy to keep track while you sew) you should be perfect! (Also, I notice that when my lines aren't perfectly straight nothing really happens unless it's ridiculously skewed, so again, no stressing!)
   
3. Use pins or clips!!! I go these from amazon and I love them! So I guess the real trick for things to line up is just to make sure you clip them together (or pin them). So for example, in your pinwheel, you started with 4 squares an sewed the ones next to each other together....there's nothing really to line up there. Then you have to do top and bottom, I would line up the centers first, and triple make sure that those are right, and then I keep pinning from the inside to the outside....My outside might not always match up 100% but what matters the most is the points so I dont think it's a problem =P
   
   I'm also a beginner so message me if you want a quilting buddy!!! =D These are some pinwheels I made like 2 weeks ago! =P
   
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   PS: This is your first block ever and you didn't chose the easiest one soooo GO YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I'm also not a fan of cutting, but I don't have a machine to help me out. Things that have helped me get better at cutting and not dread it as much are:

• I got one of those handy gripper things for my ruler. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CE8J7E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It really helps my ruler stay straight and my shoulders aren't as tired when I'm done cutting.
  
• I put on my favorite music and just get going and singing at the top of my voice while cutting, which makes the time go be faster.
  
• When I do get tired, I take a break. Have a cup of tea, a cookie, sit and play on the computer - whatever takes me away from the cutting table.
  
• Iron my fabric nice and flat and straight so I know I'm starting with the crispest lines possible.
  
• Clear off a surface where I can stack my strips so I have a real feeling of accomplishment.
  
  Hope these tips help! Because "they" are correct when they say accurate cutting makes the rest of the piecing process look better!

Suzy Quilts has some really great free patterns that translate well to baby quilts. I made the Bows and Arrows quilt for my friends baby and it came our great.


Also, the Layer cake pop pattern by Fat Quarter shop is super simple, super cute, and you can make as many or as few of the blocks as you want!

There was this one I saw posted here a while back called Chandelier, but it was in a book. The pattern is super simple and the free book preview gives the instructions.

Thank you! It was great, podcast on, boyfriend drove and I quilted! Great for the long and boring interstate stretches.

Youtube is a great resource. I started with a small pillow project. Then I did a twin-ish size quilt with big-stitch quilting to get the hang of it. Now I'm trying to do smaller stitches but they're still pretty big :P I just try to make them even and consistent in size.

From what I've gathered, there are two methods (there may be more but....), to use a frame or not. I've heard that if you learn to hand quilt without a frame, it's much more difficult to learn how to frame quilt afterwards. As opposed to learning with a frame, you can easily quilt without a frame. For me, I like quilting larger projects on a frame so that's it's always set up and I can do a 5 minute section if I have a few minutes to kill. It also keeps it up off the floor and furniture and away from cats! LOL Smaller projects like this I'll do without a frame or hoop so I can grab it and go.
I learned smaller projects on this hoop and larger projects on this frame A good thimble is also a must!
Happy quilting! :)

Hi! I have to agree that a scrappy quilt is the way to so. It will give you a lot more freedom design wise and if you happen to make a small mistake here or there, it won't be as liable to stand out. Pattern-wise, I would suggest looking up t-shirt quilts and memory quilts people have made out of their children's clothing. Both styles tend to be scrappy and have a work with what you've got mentality about them pattern wise.

Personally, I've found this book ( http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Guide-Quilting-Better-Gardens/dp/0696218569 ), and youtube to be invaluable in learning how to put a quilt together. The top stitching, as mentioned, can be done by hand, by machine, or with some investigation, you can even send it away to a company to have it quilted professionally. I've never done this before, but some local quilt shops might be able to help you in that direction. You also have the option to tie the quilt, which essentially uses yarn or thread to tie the front and back together at regular intervals. Beginner-wise, I think this is the easier way to finish a quilt but it gives it a more rustic look, in my opinion. As a positive aspect to tieing the quilt, you can have a tieing party and your grandmother might be able to help you if her hands are still strong.

Popped in to mention, the nice thing about rag quilts (of you're still planning to make a rag quilt), is you can make the seams as large as you want and it will just make the ragged bits more fluffy when it's washed, so if you wanted to, you could incorporate the original stitch lines in the seam.

Also, if you plan to make it a rag quilt, I HIGHLY recommend some good scissors. I had a pair of friskars I had bought from Walmart and they fell apart after two or three smallish rag quilts. I really like the Heritage ones and they seem to have stay sharp longer. They cost more to purchase, but oh my gosh, your hands will thank you. Good luck! I'm sure it will be super cute.

When I hand sew seams, I do a backstitch approximately every inch or so of seam, plus one before and after every junction. When I'm hand quilting, though, I just bury the knot. I haven't extensively used anything I've hand quilted yet, though, so it might be a better idea to do a backstitch at the start and end of every thread while hand quilting, in addition to burying the knot. I picked up the habit from reading old sewing manuals and ladies handbooks (tons of good free stuff online on Google Books, but I don't have any links to hand just now), because that was how you were supposed to sew clothing seams, with more backstitching for the seams that would get the most stress. I figured that same philosophy applied to hand sewn quilts, especially if they were meant to see a lot of use. When I machine sew, though, I don't bother backstitching at all when I'm piecing. Hope that's helpful!

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ETA: Also, you may want to try to find a copy of this book : https://www.amazon.ca/Handmade-Quilt-Complete-Skill-Building-Sampler/dp/193572696X/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1539362995&sr=1-2

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It details all the steps involved in hand sewing and quilting your own quilt. She also has some books on quilting as you go, for portable projects!

I have had this machine 5 years and highly recommend. It is a very reasonable price for quilters on a budget (currently $160).

Pros: It had good stitches for appliqué as well. It uses very basic parts which means finding extras are easier. I got a great package and have all the feet and can also use prewound bobbins. Lightweight makes it easy to take to classes or if one has limited space requiring them to put the machine away at times.

Cons: normal harp space definitely means larger (queen+) quilts are harder to complete. Definitely requires practice to maintain good stitches for FMQ and tension can get off over time.

Like r/30allmylife the only reason to not buy again is if one is ready for a larger machine. Brother csi6000i

Here is my wish list i saved on amazon... I'm a beginner quilter as well...good luck!

Household Essentials Sewing and Ironing Accesory Pad, 16-Inch by 32-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002CSPVM0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_T5rBwb8D6PH94

Simplicity SideWinder Portable Bobbin Winder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CE8JBU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_47rBwbSTV38SP

Polyester Embroidery Thread - 40 Variety Spools, Beautiful Shiny Colors Perfectly Match to Brother Machines. 1100 Yard Thread Is Heavy Duty and Maintains Their Quality After Many Trips to the Washer and Dryer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K9UESEK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_K8rBwbE4FRC3R

Clover Mini Iron https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CE73F8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_q9rBwbZHZXQ08

Little Foot That Purple Thang- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001ELBCFG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_Y9rBwbR5NH5BQ

O'Lipfa 5-Inch-by-24-Inch Lip Edge Ruler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WME77I/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_t-rBwbZAY6Y7M

Machine Manufacturer and Model Number: Brother CS6000i

Year purchased: 2014?

Condition: New

Price paid: Thought i paid $120 at the time, now $150

Link to website or blog describing machine features and a photo : Amazon

How long have you used the machine: 4 years

Things you love: When i bought this machine I only had the knowledge i'd learned way back in middle school home ec and youtube videos so this machine was just perfect for a beginner! Its extremely easy to thread and has many different stitch options (though i've only used a few). Its lightweight, which made it perfect to carry down to my local quilt shop for some classes. And i am ashamed to say that i never had it tuned up or cleaned but it keeps on trucking!

Things you hate: The throat is soooo small! I did manage to finish some twin sized quilts on there and they turned out ok but they could have turned out better, plus it was hell on my hands squishing and rolling the fabric to fit in there!

Any continuous problems? None! That machine put up with a lot of abuse

Would you buy this machine again if it broke down today? Yes, its still great for sewing clothes. Recently upgraded to a nicer machine for quilting so this one is now my backup but she gets the job done!

Additional thoughts or special info: Its a great machine for beginners, so easy to use and learn on and mine at least really held up to a lot of abuse!

Best Press keeps coming up when we talk starch here and I see it at fabric stores, but I picked up a cheap can at Target and it's been great. Here's a lik to Best Press https://www.amazon.com/Mary-Ellens-Starch-Alternative-Ounces-Scent/dp/B0018N8B0E

This machine, Brother CS-6000i has gotten great reviews and I've considered it myself. This one or the Singer 7258 are ones I've been considering (I'm not OP). However, I wondered if, with more money, I'd be better off spending more. From your reply, it seems it would do the trick.

It does not have an automatic tie off, am I correct? The Singer 7258 does, apparently.

However, the Singer does not come with an oversized table for quilting, nor does it come with a quilting foot, both things I'd like.

Thanks for sharing.

This is the best book ever, I've read it over and over. It goes through all the shapes, all the finishing, and everything. Honestly I couldn't have done it without this book. I cannot recommend it enough. It's not a book of projects, it's 100% technique.

I also recommend buying cardstock shapes, especially for your first project. The exactness really matter. Also, bigger is not always easier. A good size is 1-2 inch pieces. I tried to do one much bigger at first, thinking it would be easier, but it took for freaking ever. Picking hexagons gives you lots of flexibility with the pattern, and picking diamonds means less corners to tack down.

I've used tacking stitches and glue, and I really prefer the stitches. Takes less time to take apart. That said, when I did the peacock from violet craft I used glue on the thin thin black pieces on his head.

Finally, I really like using ladder/mattress stitch for my epp projects, but that is a super personal thing. Check out my posts for a few

You might want to find a great book called Dare to be Square. It has a great skull pattern in it along with many other great basic patterns that only use squares.

It's an addictive, time consuming, satisfying adventure. Think everyone answered all of your questions but just wanted to throw in another book option: https://www.amazon.com/All-Points-Patchwork-English-Projects/dp/1612124208

I like that this shows you the technique and then gives you lots of other examples how to use it that aren't just making quilts. It's a nice skill to learn and it's really been helping me learn how to hand stitch, which I've always struggled with.

Also if it bothers you that all the points don't line up in your quilt, this is the technique for you!!

I loved my Rowenta until it started leaking two years after I got it. It still works great as an iron, I just have to have a spray bottle of water handy and can't use steam.

I think most people recommend Oliso irons these days. I think you'd expect to pay at least $100 for a good iron.

I suggest the Charm School book. It's intended for beginners. I know basics of sewing, but had never made a quilt before. I'm happy to report that I just dropped off the Chandelier quilt top and backing to the quilter today and I did it all by myself!

Charm School_18 Quilts from 5" Squares: A Beginner's Guide https://www.amazon.com/dp/1617452718/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8kOODbZFW0957

I have a Brother CS-6000i and I love it, for quilting and everything else. I don't know if it'd suffice for a full-time quilter, but it's been over a year for me as a heavy part-timer. It has a great price on Amazon for $140 and comes with all the feet you need for basic quilting-- a stipple foot, a walking foot, and you can buy an attachment for a 1/4" foot cheaply, although another quilter I know with the same machine just uses a basic foot with tape at 1/4".

What's your price range? I have other quilters I could ask for recommendations.

This is "Does Not Compute" from Dare to be Square by Boo Davis. I have previously made Hootenanny with much success and decided to try this one as a quilt for my friend whose 2nd child is due in September.

I wish I had a design wall big enough for this because when you're 30 weeks pregnant it kinda sucks to have to crawl around on the floor! Luckily I have a craft room now and I can close the door and leave it where it is and not have to worry.

If anything doesn’t come or you decide you don’t like it, the only addition I can think of would be a magnetic pin holder. I like it better than a pin cushion because you can just drop the pin, rather than needing to aim into the cushion itself. Grabbit Magnetic Sewing Pincushion is the one I’ve had for years—or very similar;Mines from Joanns. I’ve recently upgraded to the Zirkel Pin Cushion which auto rotates the pins so the rounded side points OUT which is super handy and it’s stronger than my old one, so my awful aim still results in pins on the pad.

Fabric scissors are always good gifts

Quilt clips

Chalk pens

Also I think most quilters would love charm packs and jellyrolls

My husband just bought me a Rowenta and I love it! This one http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007R2E578/ref=sr_sp-btf_title_1_5/182-0640082-2547933?qid=1371153493&sr=8-5

I haven't used it too much but so far it's the best thing ever.

If you're up for a book then Dare To Be Square by Boo Davis has some lovely modern patterns. I made the owl on the front. Although, if you've already made a sampler quilt - you're probably better at quilting than you think . :-)


https://www.amazon.com/Dare-Square-Quilting-Block-Block/dp/0307462366/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540281484&sr=8-1&keywords=dare+to+be+square

Have you used the homemade baste? I was thinking of using that between the extra layer and blocks then again between the regular layers.

The store bought stuff is pricey.

I also received a box of these clip things along with natural batting as a gift. Hopefully they'll help me out:

MumCraft Multipurpose Sewing Clips with Tin Box Package, Assorted Colors, Pack of 100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PNIWT2?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Iron everything. Always. The iron is your friend. Also, so is Mary Ellen's Best Press. Also, make sure you use your ruler correctly, don't measure using the ruler on the cutting mat.

So the pattern is from this book and you can find the pattern in the free preview. I felt kind of bad about it so I bought the book because there are a few quilts I wanted help making! u/lindaeve in case you want to make another, but yours turned out BEAUTIFULLY!

There are so many ways you could quilt this and nearly all would look good. You could stitch in the ditch for all tram tracks and then FMQ around the fabric designs in the blocks; you could ignore the pattern and quilt any design you like; any curved quilting looks good on geometric blocks.

For inspiration you might like to look at Lee Cleland's book Quilting makes the quilt.

Also, if you're cheap like me, you can buy a sharpener like this: https://www.amazon.com/Colonial-Needle-Rotary-Blade-Sharpener/dp/B001CEAM88/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487775215&sr=8-1&keywords=rotary+blade+sharpener

I don't think it makes a used blade as good as a new one, but it does make used blades better and able to be used longer!

This Brother was my first machine. yeah, it has fancy stitches you'll never use, but I made dozens of quilts from this machine. It worked like a charm and still does.

I love my little Brother - Inexpensive, and it came with a lot of neat extras http://www.amazon.com/Brother-Affordable-60-Stitch-Computerized-Free-Arm/dp/B000JQM1DE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1342572876&sr=8-1&keywords=brother+sewing+machine

I recommend buying the book, as there are a ton of tips for everything from choosing fabric to arranging your blocks and super easy-to-follow directions, but if you google "one block wonder," there are a bunch of blogs dedicated to this pattern and those are also really helpful.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1571203222/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FJciDbBFKY84Y

I got this guy:
https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-Advantage-Professional-D2030/dp/B0006ZUHR0/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref=yo_pop_d_yo_pop_d_pd_t2

Edit: And this is the spray I've been using: Mary Ellen's Best Press, Clear Starch and Sizing Alternative

I use this one and find it works pretty well for me. I don't have experience with any other kinds though.
Here are the blade refills as well-- I found its cheaper going through Amazon than full price at Joanns or Hobby Lobby, etc.

Thanks, it really isn't too difficult, there are a bunch of tutorials online and this book has good instructions with pictures. Picking the fabric is probably the hardest part, mostly because I was ordering online and I had to get a bigger rotary cutter to go through 6 layers of fabric.

You're looking for something more like this. Im guessing it has something to do with the orientation and strength of the magnets?

I have a Brother CS-6000i Computer sewing machine. It's stitch #22.

I'm new to the whole sewing machine thing...is the presser foot the thing you deploy down onto the quilt, that the needle feeds through? If so, I just use the default one that's on the machine. "N" type, I think is what my screen says when it's on.

Amazon says that the foot that comes mounted is "J" or the "Zigzag foot". I'm still pretty sure the computer screen says "N". Maybe you're supposed to use "N" and I'm using "J"? I don't know. I'd trust Amazon, though, because I've got no clue what I'm talking about.

Sounds like you're doing all the right things, and I'm out of suggestions :P Although a sharpener will get a little more life out of each blade, something like these:

Manual: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CEAM88?keywords=rotary%20blade%20sharpener%2045mm&qid=1449553780&ref_=sr_1_2&sr=8-2

Electric: http://www.amazon.com/TrueSharp-Power-Rotary-Blade-Sharpener/dp/B004RCHG9A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449553927&sr=8-1&keywords=electric+rotary+blade+sharpener+45mm

Get Maxine Rosenthal's book. It's really fantastic for getting started.

I love The handmade quilt: a complete skill building sampler. By C. Forster. https://www.amazon.com/Handmade-Quilt-Skill-Building-Heirloom-Quality-Stitching/dp/193572696X

If you look through my other posts you’ll see several of the blocks I’m working on.

Yes!! It’s a round sharpener so all areas get sharpened at the same time.

https://www.amazon.com/Colonial-Needle-Rotary-Blade-Sharpener/dp/B001CEAM88

Non-mobile: This book also has a lot of good pictures and explanations

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

I have the book at home. When I get a chance I’ll let you guys know.

Edit: I found it!!!! Dare to be square. https://www.amazon.com/Dare-Square-Quilting-Block-Block/dp/0307462366

Great Machine

This was my first machine. I read tons of reviews online, and it’s consistently rated highly, and is a very decent price. Highly recommend!

Make it easy on yourself.
https://www.amazon.com/Better-Homes-Gardens-Step-Step/dp/0696218569/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483336921&sr=8-1&keywords=Learn+to+quilt&refinements=p_72%3A2661618011

I got this one from Amazon, $150. It works well for me: https://www.amazon.com/Brother-Feature-Rich-Sewing-Auto-Size-Buttonholes/dp/B000JQM1DE/ref=sr_1_4?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1510779754&sr=1-4&keywords=brother&dpID=41dk9CkIfHL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I found Quilting Makes the Quilt to be immensely helpful in seeing how the quilting impacts the overall look of a quilt.
http://www.amazon.com/Quilting-Makes-Quilt-Lee-Cleland/dp/1564770753

Looks like Dare to be Square

You don't have to fussy cut. You just cut and stack 6 pattern repeats so they line up, then cut strips and then cut triangles. All the triangles are identical and make the hexagons. It's actually really easy and fun!

One-Block Wonders: One Fabric, One Shape, One-of-a-Kind Quilts https://www.amazon.com/dp/1571203222/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TQmUBb1FYBJ29

Here is the mobile version of your link

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001D87YX4/?coliid=I264N4L1JKWTGV&colid=2ENIY7DSIJ0Z7&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it&fbclid=IwAR3I3k4OVojTef59toTPMolU_h4oTDeL8gTZGdeFrZv5--wH1WoAeEe1Vt4

The pattern is in this book. Dare to Be Square Quilting: A Block-by-Block Guide to Making Patchwork and Quilts https://www.amazon.com/dp/0307462366/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JBQSzbH9RA8NG

Here is the desktop version of your link

Maybe get a handle for your rulers? I bought one of the Gypsy Grippers , and its been so much less painful for my wrist.

Maybe something like this?

Clover Mini Iron https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CE73F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dq-WzbP1KEB3P

I haven't used one but a lot of people swear by them. If it is just a seam on a log cabin block or something I just finger press if I can get away with it.

I've had this machine for a few years now, had it maintained/cleaned once at my local shop and haven't had any issues other than the walking foot breaking on me. :( It's never really more than the price it's currently listed for, I don't know why Amazon bothers posting it as being "on sale" as that's always the price.

I have this rowenta and my advice now would be to NOT buy it! I have always treated it kindly (it lives in my sewing room, never dropped or used for other purposes), but it LEAKS! Horribly! and started just exactly a month after its one year warranty ran up. It was very expensive, and I am a steam lover, so I loved its gajillion steam holes and little pointy nose for opening seams, but leaking is the kiss of death. It has destroyed a couple blocks with horrible leaked rusty water stains, and almost did the same to a quilt top I decided in a fit of madness needed a final press. The kicker is I recently went to a guild sew-in, and a woman brought the exact same iron, which she only uses dry because it also developed a leak.