Top products from r/rollerblading

We found 29 product mentions on r/rollerblading. We ranked the 149 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/rollerblading:

u/aldolega · 7 pointsr/rollerblading

Loootttts of experience with this. Honestly, nowadays, I'm as likely to get an arm workout at a session from rubbricking and/or filming as a leg workout from miszouing, haha.

I'm not sure what grit mine are, as Home Depot and Lowe's only sell one model each. In my experience the Home Depot ones are much better (bright blue handle), I got a bunch from Lowe's (darker blue rubberized handle) on closeout a year ago and they wear really fast. Not sure if the new brand Lowe's replaced those with is good or not, I'll know in a year or two when my current stash wears out.

The A-Mall video does a good job of covering basics, I'll make some additional points.

Ideally you want a virgin ledge- no wax, moss, paint, etc. Just bare-ass concrete. Once you wax the ledge, the effectiveness of your rubbrick goes down about 90%, as the wax smooths out/clogs your rubbrick. You can melt the wax later with a torch or lighter, and mop it up with some paper towels or try scrubbing it off with a wirebrush, but just try to keep your brick "dry" in the first place.

What I usually do is keep two or three bricks in my car's spot kit- one or two new-ish bricks, for the bulk of the work on clean/dry areas; and an older worn or cracked one, that is now the "junk" brick- this is used for blending into waxed areas, bricking something that's painted, trying to smooth out a section with old/shitty wax, etc. Basically for the messy stuff that you want to keep your newer rubbrick(s) away from until they're worn/cracked and they become the next junk brick. For this stuff I also find that using the corner/edge of the brick can be useful, and kinda scrapes the wax/paint off instead of it all adhering to the brick.

I usually 'brick and wax the top of the ledge a little wider than most people- i like to do about the length of the long side of the rubbrick from the corner. This is so if you touch a front or back wheel on a groove trick you don't stick as hard.

Use some muscle. This is going to be hard work. You only get one chance at this before waxing, so don't half-ass this. Do the top really well but also do a good job on the corner (or bevel if your locale likes beveled edges as much as Detroit), and the side. You put a lot of pressure into the side of the ledge with your frame when you lock or jump out of a soul trick, do don't skimp.

Ideally, wear some lung protection. A proper respirator, or a simple paper mask. If nothing else, pull your t-shirt up over your nose. You want to avoid breathing this dust in, it is not good for your lungs.

A soft-ish broom or masonry brush is best for dusting the ledge off, but you can improvise with a rag/towel/t-shirt, or a tree branch, or a newspaper. You'll figure it out. Keep your lungs protected during this part too!

Sweep the dust off the ground too! It's slippery and can get in your bearings and it just looks bad anyways. You should be a ninja with your street skating- leave as little evidence as possible.

Once it's dusted is when I personally will fill chunks/seams with Bondo Glass, which is Bondo with a fiberglass additive, which makes it very hard and strong when dry, unlike plain Bondo. This stuff:

http://www.amazon.com/272-Bondo-Glass-Fiberglass-Reinforced-Filler/dp/B000VKZ3JM

Depending on how much hardener you add, it can be dry and skateable within 20 minutes. Too much hardener and it's too stiff to work with though! Go for a dark dark brown consistency once mixed. Err on the side of less hardener if unsure. If you have helpers, rubbrick around the chunks and seams first, have one person work on the Bondoing while the others rubbrick the rest of the ledge.

I cut up old skate boxes into ~6"x6" squares for application- the shiny ones work best. One square for mixing, one for applying and shaping. Grab some paint mixer sticks for free from the paint department for mixing and scooping your Bondo onto your square. You can open the top of the can with a quarter if necessary.

Don't build up the Bondo past the level of the ledge. Ideally you want to fill the chunk/seam and have it be level. Don't work it too much, try to get it in the chunk and smooth it with one or two passes. With some practice you'll learn the right pressure to scrape it with to get it level with the ledge surface.

Some disposable gloves are really handy for the Bondoing- it sticks to skin quite effectively once dry.

Now you can wax. Some people swear by quick-drying spray lacquer before waxing but I've never found it to do much for me. It's cheap though so try it out if you want.

I like to do a first layer of harder wax (skate-branded wax, candles) and then a top layer of softer wax if necessary (paraffin/Gulf wax).

u/Sparq1472 · 1 pointr/rollerblading

Definitely pad up. At least some knee pads. I thought I was too cool for that when I started back up a couple months ago and now I have a solid lump on my left knee that doesn’t really show signs of going away. Nothing hurts I’m pretty sure it’s just from falling on it... A LOT. I got some triple eight kp22 ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000ASZAA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hPbjDbP3MBRNQ ) and they fit pretty slim for a hard shell. Fits ubder shorts well. I think the size I got is to small for me over pants (I’m. 5’10 170 lbs, average build and I got a size L), but under shorts is perfect! I also wear some slip on elbow pads ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XOQR7NK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PKbjDbDEMR24F ) they’ve saved me for sure on a couple slams and You basically forget they are there. Happy rolling man! Welcome back!

u/StrumWealh · 0 pointsr/rollerblading

>As the title suggests. Picked up a pair of Macro blade 80 Rollerblade's with slow roll. I thought I was upgrading my Zetra blades but the Macro's seem so much slower( lots of work).
>
>Any suggestions on an Amazon upgrade wheel/bearing package for outdoor asphalt/concrete skate.

As far as free-spin of the wheels goes, the stock bearings for the Macroblades are a sealed bearing lubricated with a silicone-based grease. In general, grease-lubricated bearings do have a "run-in" period where they do not spin quite as freely as they will once they're run-in & warmed-up.

"Grease lubricated super-precision bearings initially run with a relatively high frictional moment. If they are run at high speeds without a running-in period, the temperature rise can be considerable. The high frictional moment is due to the churning of excess grease, which takes time to work its way out of the contact zone." (source)

Though, it should be noted that, in truth, oil-lubricated bearings also have a similar "run-in"/"break-in" requirement - see here.

As far as slower skating speed and requiring more work to get/keep going, the stock wheels for the Zetrablades and the Macroblades are of the same hardness: 82A. in general, a harder wheel rolls better, as a harder wheel deforms less under load, and loses less energy to hysteresis - "The primary cause of rolling resistance when a body (such as a ball, tire, or wheel) rolls on a surface is hysteresis. This is attributed to the viscoelastic characteristics of the material of the rolling body." If both skates were using the stock wheels (or identical replacements), both would experience the same energy losses, assuming all else is equal.

And, as you describe your Zetrablades as "well worn" & mention using a lithium grease to lubricate the bearings in those skates, I would presume that you are not using the original wheels or bearings in the Zetrablades?

With regard to potential upgrades, pretty much any serviceable bearing from a reputable company (examples: the ILQ series from TwinCam, or the Reds series from Bones) will do, and wheels for outdoor use should generally have a somewhat higher durometer than that of the stock Zetrablade/Macroblade wheels - something like these, these, or these (all 80mm/85A) would work well.

u/Freestyle_Skater · 1 pointr/rollerblading

Ceramic Bearings

I have tried them all and these are hands down the best you can buy for the money.

I won’t use any other bearings in my skates.



If you don’t want ceramic, I recommend these as an excellent alternative at an incredible price.

ILQ-9 Pro Bearings

u/douglas_in_philly · 2 pointsr/rollerblading

I wish I'd taken a "Before" picture of my skates. They were filthy with dirt from lots of rolls over wet and muddy ground here in Philadelphia over the past few weeks. You can see how filthy (and worn down!) the old wheels were. I put about 575 miles on them.

I replaced the wheels with Hydrogen 80/85A wheels, the bearings with Rollerblade Twincam ILQ-9 Pro Bearings (though I got them from Inline Warehouse, not Amazon), and a new Rollerblade brand brake from Amazon. I also bought a Sonic Skate Tool, which really worked well!!! I got it from Inline Warehouse, too.

Took them out for their inaugural roll this morning, and although I couldn't skate at top speeds for long periods, due to wet, leafy patches, the spots where I could, they were AWESOME!

Like new skates again!

u/hashtagframework · 2 pointsr/rollerblading

I just bought these on amazon... came in a 16 pack to change all 8 wheels, and came with rollerblade sized spacers with the 8mm bearings. Some of the product reviews say they don't come with spacers, so I'm not really sure. The spacers that came with the wheels that came with my skates didn't fit in the new wheels I bought, but the spacers that came with the Bones Reds fit perfect.

I'm guessing if you bought an 8 pack, they might assume you were buying bearings for skateboard wheels and include a skateboard tool instead.

Someone else recommended those bearings, and I'm extremely happy... I roll completely across the park. Maybe buy the 16 pack and replace them all.

u/PROFESSIONAL_FART · 2 pointsr/rollerblading

I don't. I just use Lysol disinfectant spray once or twice a week and I'll throw them on a boot drying gizmo like this after a hard skate. Between those two practices it'll stop any bacteria from growing in there.

With a few exceptions liners don't last me long enough to put in more effort. If you're skating average liners you may as well just treat them like socks and replace them once they get some holes/start ripping because the padding has probably seen better days at that point.

u/sidcode · 1 pointr/rollerblading

i hope you get back into it in some way. The Martial Arts subreddits here are quite helpful.

A book also recently came out which you might find interesting.

u/idsay · 1 pointr/rollerblading

The K2 R80 and R100 are both aluminum rockerable frames for UFS (both come with the 6mm rocker-axles), I used them before a NR100 setup.
Ground Control UFS 110mm Tri-frame I also used with 100mm wheels, I enjoyed this setup for indoors. I prefer big wheels and dunno how well the Midtown feels with it.

Amazon - K2 R100 its cheap right now at $78

The K2 R100 (and R80 to an extent) can feel very similar to the NR100 with the adjustable rocker. There are a few threads showing preferred rocker setups. The paint on the frames also rubs off very easy with some acetone.

https://youtu.be/XrAdtIoEWL8 I dont know what rocker setup he is using.

u/SameOldGD · 1 pointr/rollerblading

These (not exactly those but similar) work for me to leave in, while my skates are drying, if you have the luxury of using other skates while those are drying, do that.

I think type of socks can also make a difference. What has worked for me is socks that contain the fabric 'Coolmax'.... Yes, I know it sounds fancy but I went into the hardware store and found really cheap socks that had 'Coolmax' in it which wicks away moisture and I think is found in some performance socks, maybe a bike/runningshoe/ski shop would also have good alternatives for socks.

For long skates I double up on socks (coolmax socks on first and regular socks over those) for two reasons, to prevent chafing at the ankles and to get less sweaty feet.

u/David_VG · 2 pointsr/rollerblading

Try the book:

Inline!: A Manual for Beginning to Intermediate Inline Skating
by William Nealy

http://www.goodreads.com/book/show/865387.Inline_

https://www.amazon.com/Inline-Manual-Beginning-Intermediate-Skating/dp/0897322746

You can get a second hand one really cheap and will laugh a lot

u/Gofixmix · 4 pointsr/rollerblading

The holes from the cuff bolts are happening on mine as well, it's not too bad yet, but on my previous boots these solved the problem:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B001DZRKL8/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Self-adhesive gel patches, just stick over the bolts, they were surprisingly durable (I'd thought I'd have to redo it every week, but no)

Crease - don't know, liner too big? (Mines were super-deadly-tight when I bought them and then stretched considerably...

u/ImKira · 1 pointr/rollerblading

Might be worth investing in a good set of t-handle allens wrenches for the future, to avoid stripping axels.

This is the set that I use.

u/cyanicenine · 2 pointsr/rollerblading

I wear merino wool primarily if I'm doing any sort of athletic activity. This article explains why cotton is a shitty fabric that you should stay away from for most sports. For me though I just hate the feeling of wet cotton on my skin, when I sweat into it it chafes and just feels abrasive.

I'm not sure it's that important for rollerblading since you aren't likely to be skating in any extreme elements. If you want to get fancy you can buy some nice icebreaker or smartwool athletic wear (what I use), or if you want to be extra fancy you can get compression garments like this but it's probably overkill, unless you need the extra knee support.

u/Fugbug1 · 6 pointsr/rollerblading

I think a set of sport glasses would do the trick.
Usually i see some bikers wear these types of glasses. You can get many different kinds of lenses if you dont like polarized lenses.
Ex.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TCFM5WQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1OWVT37KD30HT&psc=1

u/Zekeizme · 1 pointr/rollerblading

Currently have the Kizer Advance Frames With 80mm wheels. I plan to move to the R100 frames as soon as they are available! I would love a pair of Wizards but I am too scared to spend that kind of money and not like 100mm wheels!

u/ethereal_plane · 3 pointsr/rollerblading

No, something designed to both absorb impact and prevent flexing. Like these at a minimum: https://www.amazon.com/Triple-Saver-Wristsavers-Black-Small/dp/B0000DZIK1/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481674687&sr=8-3&keywords=wrist+guards

There's also "glove" type ones, and even some ridiculously thick ones for the downhill skater guys who intentionally drag their hands on pavement for control in highs-speed turns.

I've always used the "splint" style ones like the ones I linked above. They've saved my wrists in several falls. Important: no wrist-guard will completely prevent injury if you fall directly onto your hands badly enough. That's why the "learn to tuck and roll" advice above is so important. Ultimately that's what will prevent fractures.

u/individual0 · 2 pointsr/rollerblading

Get protective gear.

I started learning aggressive skating recently as well. The first thing I tried was grinding and it didn't go well. I failed the landing on the coping of the box. Somehow I fell in such a way that my shin, right below the knee, slammed into the concrete and steel coping of the box. And somehow that took a small chunk out of my shin. I didn't break anything, and it's healing up well enough, but it sucked. It bled a lot, bloodying my jeans and socks. I got light headed. And I had to bail on the night of skating. And don't want to try again until it's completely healed up.

I've got safety gear now. I went with wrist/hand guards and this type of padding under my clothes https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UVUCF2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . It's just enough to take the edge off, but it's enough to prevent cracked bones and broken skin when hitting concrete. It still hurts like hell though. While it will probably only survive a few falls, it's thin, light, and comfortable enough that I always put them on now.