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Awesome! Looks like since I have mainly been doing pine I could kick it up to speed 2 no problem.

My next question is, in carbide create what would you consider for the bit choice for a 1/8 straight cut like This

I think it would be the #102 bit but I would like to make sure. In easel I just choose the 1/8 straight cut and go on my way however when I am doing projects in carbide create I'd just like to make sure since all of the bits are in the # fashion.

Thanks a lot for all your help

I'm using cheap 4" Sewer pipe, the thinner lighter pvc piping along with Whye and 45deg elbows. Picked them up at Lowes because they had the brighter white pipe compared to the sun-tinted stuff they had at HD. Since i was simply hanging them from the ceiling, i wanted them to look "nice".


Few things i'm doing which i'm not sure is fully necessary...

1. Once cut and ready to assemble (i went one piece at a time, slowly measuring along the way) i lightly wax the inside of the pipes to keep things flowing nicely. No joinery, just pressed to fit by hand which allows me to expand easily like i did for this 3rd drop. I just wax as far as my arm can reach, not really worrying too much on the longer pipes.
   
2. I have simple plastic blast gates... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005VRPQ92
   
3. Remote controlling the DC via https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072F9DGRL
   
4. All of my drops have these quick-connectors.. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009AY5ET4 . On the hose side i use their male connector https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009AY5E94
   
5. Since i installed a 4" piping and such, i reduce to 2.5" just after the blast gate/quick-connector... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002DSDSY2
   
6. Then extremely flexible 2.5" hose to the dust boot... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M35BE8D
   
7. Lastly into the SuckIt dust boot... https://www.suckitdustboot.com/product-page/suckit-dust-boot-for-shapeoko-3-xl-and-xxl?categoryId=7b98942b-ae43-e2ff-7e50-014f08c9ff6b
   
   1-5 work perfectly with my other tools... miter saw, table saw, router table, etc... Since i don't have it yet, i can't attest to how well all this will work the SO3 (:fingerscrossed:).

Definitely decent hearing protection and a respirator, I use this one and it works great. Save your lungs and your ears.

1. Deffo the wires could be loose, check them and make sure they are really solid, with good crimps, heatwrap and anything else that will reinforce them. If you can get some cable wrap and drag chain. I have had plenty of jobs ruined because a cable got pinched in the gantry and skipped steps.
   
   
2. Generally if the firmware is screwed then you won't get any movement at all, so I doubt that is an issue.
   
   
3. Does the motor work if plugged into another driver? again as the motors are pretty much two coils of wire you have to drive a lot of current down them to break them. They will get very hot and generally not work at all.
   
   
   When you say moving "in broken halting steps" that does suggest to me that the motor is working but does not have enough torque to turn. That could be that the wheels are too tight on the makerslide or that the motor is not getting enough current, but only look into that after you are sure the wiring is Aok.
   
   

Both my z and X were slipping... Once tightened, the machine has been rock solid. Good idea on moving the electronics, post what you do.

Not to shill, but I these inserts and they have served well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002KSZ13G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I painted both solid then glued them in place with E6000 glue.

E6000 237032 Craft Adhesive, 2 fl oz Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BPHQWU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fBXYDbBPBHRPG

ah yes a dust separator

Same concept as a bandsaw brush for the wheels. Check out something like this:
https://smile.amazon.com/Carter-Clean-Sweep-Bandsaw-Brush/dp/B003CMOF5O

Sure do.

Terminal Blocks

4 Conductor Wire

Retracting wheels would be cool...Building a cabinet on one of these and mounting the shapeoko above it might work well.

I use Boeshield T-9 to protect my woodworking tools from rusting. Its a bit expensive but it lasts a long time. I reapply it once a year. http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK

If you're concerned about the accuracy and repeatability of the dial (which you probably should be) you might want to pick up a cheap tachometer to determine the actual speed before plowing into the stock. If you want actual speed control, consider modding your spindle with a Super-PID.

Here's the link to these clamps: http://www.amazon.com/Shop-Fox-D3347-Cam-Clamp/dp/B00012XE0A

https://www.amazon.com/Kodiak-Cutting-Tools-KCT136442-Diameter/dp/B007BTPAJE/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_pd_title is the bit

Using .479 inch birch plywood

Starting using .62 doc at 35 ipm
*.062 sorry

Start figuring out a clamping solution. The kit doesn't come with anything to hold your work in place. In my experience the double sided tape is awful. If/when the tape fails you'll break a lot of parts on your machine.

I'd recommend setting up your waste board with these inserts and buy a bunch of these clamps