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There's a lot of ways to approach stenciling. I just started about 5 months ago and have a decent number of pieces completed, but i'm still learning each time I cut and paint.

I'll be happy to share a list of what I use, but just keep an open mind and remember that there's not just a single way to do this.

[] Materials []

• I use #11 blades [Link]
  
• I alternate between these two knives [[link]
  (https://www.amazon.com/X-ACTO-Designer-Hobby-Craft-X3254/dp/B002A2QTGK/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&qid=1501185899&sr=8-22&keywords=xacto+11+knife)] [link]
  
• Painters tape [Link]
  
• Spray Mount (Not spray adhesive - I just learned this last week) [link]
  
• 110lb cardstock paper
  
• Clear scotch tape
  
  
• As for paint I just started using Montana, which is a nice-to-have but definitely not necessary. I did a lot of my first pieces with Rusto - in general just stay away from gloss, super gloss, high gloss (it can work, but in general you will have an easier time with flat/mattes.) I went through a lot of trial and error with paint - I bought some Krylon paint which was at a higher price point and it was absolute shit (very watery and runny no matter how long I shook my cans.)
  
  
  [] General Tips []
  
  
• Making your stencils is definitely a part where people's methods differ (specifically in photoshop and breaking up your layers.) Just search YouTube and find a method that works with you.
  
  
• For larger pieces I use rasterbator. Stich them together with clear scotch tape and cut as usual. I tape both sides of the seams/edges.
  
  
• Take your time with your cuts
  
• Make sure your workspace is clean
  
• Let your layers dry
  
• Make sure your stencils are laying flat
  
• shake the shit outta your cans (especially with cheaper paint.) When you think you've shaken enough, shake for another 60 seconds.
  
• Mind the distance between your cans and the canvas (or whatever medium you're painting on)
  
• Take it easy on the paint, you don't need much to create a solid layer.
  
  
  Hope this is helpful, remember to share your pieces!

honestly, I did a one-time thing with printer paper, but I'm going to transfer the stencil to posterboard so I can get some more use out of it. EDIT: I've heard that these are super good for multiple use stencils, but I've never used them.

I use acetate, harry. It'll run through any printer (as long as you buy the correct ink / laser type for your needs) and can be found online where it might also be known as 'OHP sheets' or 'transparencies'.

I specifically use http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000SHSER6/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00 and if you're not based in the UK, I'm sure you can find an equivalent.

I use 3M repositionable spray adhesive, the 400ml blue cans. Great tack, leaves no residue (and if it does, just use masking tape to lift it off your painted surface) and once it's on the stencil it'll last for a while.

If you're really scrimping, you can reactivate the adhesive on a used stencil by warming it up with a hair dryer. In cold weather (like an unheated studio, hah), it can sometimes be a good idea to warm your painting surface up with a hair dryer as glue doesn't work so well when it's cold.

Stencil 101 and Stencil 201. They're pretty basic, and contain more craft stencil ideas than techniques. They're great for beginners, though, especially since they both have 20-25 pre-cut stencils to practice.

There's more info in the reddit sidebar, tbh.

These and these are my go-to's. I can get 20-30 sprays out of each of these before the paint cakes up too chick to cut out. They're worth the money and 278% better than Acetate. That's a true statistic that I did not just make up off the top of my head.

A sharp blade should make a pretty noticeable difference. I personally like the Olfa knives with the snap off graphics blades.

OLFA 9150US SAC-1 9mm Stainless Steel Auto-Lock Graphics Knife https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BKA6IA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pWx4CbVX51DHK

Good start!

The multiple layers look like they're done well, the only thing I would recommend is spray adhesive. Not sure if you used it, or just held it down, but it will work wonders. You lines will be less fuzzy. I use this stuff, when I'm stenciling cotton or canvas.

I'm considering the 3M R6211 Low-Maintenance Half-Mask Organic Vapor, P95 Respirator Assembly

Not sure if all Amazon products are available overseas, but it gets good reviews (5 stars/26 reviews) and is less than $30.

Best bang for your buck is to just buy a roll of Duralar. That way you won't be confined to a letter-sized stencil and it's cheaper than buying by the sheet. I would also recommend getting a stencil cutter. It won't be as precise as an xacto because it basically melts the plastic and your line will be slightly wider than a normal cut, but it speeds up your cutting time tremendously and you don't have to change blades on it.
Check your local hobby/craft shops for these. You can sometimes find duralar rolls for cheaper than amazon.

I like using this kind of stuff. It allows you to make much bigger stencils and because it's clear you can trace other images right onto it pretty easy.

You can use things like cereal boxes, but just remember that over time they'll get soaked through with paint and whatnot. The edges may begin to wear and then your stencil will lose detail.

Yes. I drew it free-hand with an x-acto knife, working from source art on this book cover:
http://www.amazon.com/Kurt-Vonnegut-Interview-Other-Conversations/dp/1612190901

Mil means 1/1000th of an inch, versus .00X meaning 1/1000th of a meter (millimeter).

40mil is roughly 1mm.

2mil mylar is extremely thin.

More like this, but in roll form.

i believe this is the one i have, with the R6001 organic vapor cartridges. i'm not an expert on the subject but it seems to do the trick and isn't too terrible to wear. though, if i'm painting out in the heat for a while it does tend to collect a lot of sweat in there. bout all i can tell ya

I buy mine locally at Michael's craft store, otherwise it's available on Amazon, and other online retailers.

Stencil of the character Kagura from Azumanga Daioh. Image found on p.564 of the omnibus.

MTN 94 on an 8x10" canvas, 2 layers.

I use something very similar to this:

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Paint-Project-Respirator-Medium/dp/B00004Z4EB/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1454183033&sr=8-7&keywords=3m+half+face+respirator

https://www.amazon.com/ANDSTON-Magnifying-Professional-Jewelers-Interchangeable/dp/B07J9W7GBG/ref=sxin_4_ac_m_rm?ac_md=1-1-bWFnbmlmeWluZyBnbGFzc2VzIGZvciBjbG9zZSB3b3Jr-ac_d_rm&keywords=magnifying+glasses&pd_rd_i=B07J9W7GBG&pd_rd_r=f056ac72-487a-4a12-ad1c-6e655bc5e5ef&pd_rd_w=emc7B&pd_rd_wg=wiTq6&pf_rd_p=73c1eab1-1449-4c6d-b922-1dce21aded6d&pf_rd_r=PPS8Y1KV54Y3VN9E6AEA&psc=1&qid=1570419438&smid=A2YI1MZXMY7AGH