Top products from r/tevotarantula
We found 22 product mentions on r/tevotarantula. We ranked the 21 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
1. BIQU Heat Bed Power Module Expansion Hot Bed MOS Tube for 3D Printer
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
A general add-on heated bed power expansion module for 3D printerCompletely solve the hot bed power is too large and the load current issue. It can work with the Anet A8With this addon module to your 3D printer motherboard you can lead the maximum current up to 15AUnder the premise of normal heat di...
2. V6 Bowden Extruder PTFE Lined Throat 3.0mm Heatbreak (Pack of 5) (3.00mm PTFE Lined)
Sentiment score: -1
Number of reviews: 1
3. SoloGood Amass 10 Pairs XT30 XT30-U Male Female Bullet Connectors Power Battery Plugs with Heat Shrink for RC Lipo Battery(Black) …
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
100% original Amass10 Pairs of high quality XT30 Male and Female power connectors.The XT30 ensures a solid high-amp connection, perfect for applications up to and beyond 65A constantMade of high-temp Nylon and gold plated spring connectors, both included in the injection mould at the time when formi...
4. Boeray 50pcs 2020s M4 T Spring Ball Nut, Half Round Roll-in Nut for t-Slot Aluminum Profile 20x20mm
Sentiment score: -1
Number of reviews: 1
Used for:building industrial aluminum frame structures, 3D printers, CNC Routers, CNC laser cutters, Robotics ProjectsMaterial:high quality carbon steelQuantity:50pcsFit: 2020 aluminum extrusion profile slot 6mmThread:M4
5. [initeq] 2-Pack 2M (2 Meters) Stepper Motor Cable for 3D Printer and NEMA 17 Stepper Motors – JST Connector
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
2-Pack6-Pin JST connector on motor end4-Pin JST connector on controller endExtra-long 2M length (over 6.5ft)Easy to re-pin should a different pinout be required for your motor/driver combo
6. Amass 10 Pair XT60H Bullet Connector Plug Upgrated of XT60 Sheath Female & Male Gold Plated for RC Parts … … …
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Genuine Amass 10 Pair XT60H Connectors with Snap on CoversXT-60 Connector for RC Lipo Batteries Drones Airplanes Cars Vehicles60 Amp Current Handling Bullet ConnectorsGold Plated ConnectionsEasy to solder and no heat shrink required
7. PRILINE PETG-1KG 1.75 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, 1kg Spool, 1.75 mm, Blue
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Material: PETG (Polyethylene terephthalate glycol) - Color: Blue - Weight: 1 KG (approximately 2.20 lbs) SpoolSize: 1.75mm (Tolerance Level : ± 0.03mm) - Spool Diameter: 7.87" - Spool Width: 2.83" - Spool Hub Hole Diameter: 2.20"Recommended Printing Temp/Nozzle Temperature: 230-260°C(446-500°F) ...
8. Noctua NF-A4x20 5V, Premium Quiet Fan, 3-Pin, 5V Version (40x20mm, Brown)
Sentiment score: -1
Number of reviews: 1
Premium quiet fan, 40x40x20 mm, 5V, 3-pin Molex, 5000 RPM, 14.9 dB(A), >150,000 h MTTFAward-winning A-series design with Flow Acceleration Channels and Advanced Acoustic Optimisation frame for superior quiet cooling performance40x20mm size ideal for 1U applications or replacing fans in network and s...
9. AIWAN LEZHI 5 Meters GT2 Timing Belt Width 6mm Fit
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Pay Attention: This product only sold by LEZHI , other seller is fake , if you want to buy real one , please buy it from LEZHI store .Do not confused by other lower price, enjoy your shopping!Material:Rubber,Width:6mm,Model:GT2,Length: 5MBelt is rubber, fiberglass reinforced, 6mm Width Timing Synchr...
10. Witbot All-Metal l Heatbreak Throat for V6 RepRap 3D Printer Hotend 1.75mm (Pack of 5pcs)
Sentiment score: -1
Number of reviews: 1
All metal heat break for V6Durable and stable performanceCompatible with 1.75mm Filament HotendsMaterial: Stainless SteelInner diameter: 2mm for 1.75mm filament
11. RilexAwhile 5Pcs 100mm x 5mm Stainless Steel Ground Shaft Round Rod for RC Helicopter Airplane
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Product Name : Round Rod;Size : 100 x 5mm / 3.9" x 0.2"(L*D);Material : Stainless Steel;Color: Silver Tone;Package Content : 5 x Round Rod;
12. The Lean Startup: How Today's Entrepreneurs Use Continuous Innovation to Create Radically Successful Businesses
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
The Lean Startup
13. Inkbird Dual Stage DV 12V Digital Temperature Controller Fahrenheit Thermostat Heating and Cooling for Homebrewing Brew Fermenter Fridge Incubator Greenhouse
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
🔶🔶Fahrenheit and Celsius Display Can Be Choose🔶🔶Alarm When Temperature Exceeds the Limit or When Sensor Error🔶🔶2 Relays, Switch Between Cooling and Heating Modes🔶🔶Control the Temperature by Setting the Temperature Set Value and the Difference Value🔶🔶Temperature Calibrat...
14. uxcell a15071400ux0035 M4x12mmx1 mm Stainless Steel Round Flat Washer for Bolt Screw Pack of 100
Sentiment score: -1
Number of reviews: 1
Product Name: Flat Washer; Material: Stainless SteelWeight: 52g; Package Content: 100(+/-2%) x Flat WasherMain Color: Silver Tone; Inner Dia: 4mm/0.16"Outer Dia: 12mm/0.47"Thickness: 1mm/0.04"
15. Qunqi 5pack MP1584EN Ultra Small DC-DC 3A Power Step-Down Adjustable Module Buck Converter 24V to 12v 9V 5V 3V for Arduino
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Input Voltage: 4.5V to 28VOutput Voltage:0.8V to 20VOutput Current: 1.8 A typical (3.0 Max)Output Ripple Frequency: 340 KHzRipple Voltage: 30mV
16. ABN Universal SAE and Metric Master Feeler Gauge 26-Piece Blade Tool for Measuring Gap Width/Thickness
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Practical: Use the ABN Universal SAE and Metric Master Feeler Gauge 26-Piece Blade Tool for Measuring Gap Width / Thickness when you need to quickly and easily measure gap widthsVersatile: Use on anything from guitars to engines and everything in between; Metric and SAE standard sizes are included (...
17. STEPPERONLINE Stepper Motor Nema 17 Bipolar 40mm 64oz.in(45Ncm) 2A 4 Lead 3D Printer Hobby CNC
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Hot Sale! High Torque45Ncm(63.7oz.in) holding torqueNEMA 17 bipolar 1.65"x1.65"x1.57" 4-wire1.8 deg. step angle(200 steps/rev)Rated current 2A & resistance 1.1ohms
18. SCStyle 5 Meters GT2 2mm Pitch 6mm Wide Timing Belt for 3D Printer CNC
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
5 Meters GT2 Timing Belt
19. Steel Flat Washer, Zinc Plated Finish, DIN 125, Metric, M5 Screw Size, 5.3 mm ID, 10 mm OD, 1 mm Thick (Pack of 100)
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Flat washer provides a bearing surface for fastener load distribution or acts as a spacerSteel is often used in applications where strength is the primary considerationZinc plating resists corrosion and has a reflective appearanceMeets DIN 125 specifications
sorry i confused you I mean't pay close attention to the amount of digits. It actually is doing something. Its just doing it at very fine increments(thats why you got 3 numbers instead of 2). I.e. So like right now im printing abs, mashing the first layer and i've been lazy about calibrating my gcode offset with my probe. I first watch how the initial lines are laying down. Then i poke my head down and if i can see the stream of plastic laying down out of my nozzle, i keep going down until just after i can't see that stream, then check the layers and stop. A flashlight is handy. All off the filaments have a different feel. PETG being the absolute worse. I imagine your first layer looks incredible right now because its kind of mashed. And that it is beautifully mirrored like on the underside where it meets the glass if you haven't used a glue stick. Which is a look i like personally a lot. Looks like fine circuit board traces with the lines right?. But after that first layer keep jacking it up until the stringing stops. Just keep going up man. You may be twisting that knob a lot and thats okay. And when you get where it stops stringing, just add that number to your g code offset in your slicer. Baby stepping is a killer feature to utilize, its not hard at all you just have to get a feel for it. You will notice differences in how the lines lay down vs how much of a filament stream you can see. Im telling you this because I think finding your number babystepping with one print is less frustrating than start prints over and over punching in numbers inside your slicer. Its great to learn babystepping.
I was printing ABS tonight and i went to -150, i was printing PETG the other day and went all the way up to 500-600. If its way off you could be going way up. You will see it in your print, just be patient. I would actually encourage you to keep your first layers as your doing now for better adhesion and make your slicer correct the offset after the first layers. Thats what I do. But do that after you get this figured out.
These help a lot
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T85ANNW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can buy it on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Mercurry-Meters-timing-Rostock-GT2-6mm/dp/B071K8HYB4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525473423&sr=8-3&keywords=3d+printer+belt
Also on the tevo store:
https://tevo3dprinterstore.com/collections/tarantula-spare-parts/products/10meter-gt2-6mm-open-timing-belt
Notice also that the acrylic parts are fragile and breaking those before printing better replacements will be expensive to solve, unless someone can print the parts for you ofc. So take it easy and don't tight the nuts too much. Use washers whenever you can.
To get a replacement wire, just look at the connectors on the stock wires and look at Amazon pictures until you find ones that are identical (and long enough). [This one looks right, if my memory serves me well.] (https://www.amazon.com/initeq-2-Pack-Meters-Stepper-Printer/dp/B074YZ251K)
To diagnose the main board, just try swapping the wires around and moving the printer with the settings menu. Good luck!
Yes. Change them with regular, esp if you're going to be using the acrylic. Tape your acrylic with doing tape to give them a little more strength. I'll get you a link for which ones to buy
Here ya go:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OK4TZO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If it's for the enclosure you probably don't want to run it off the control board, then. What would be the purpose?
You need to control the enclosure's temp separate from what's going on for print cooling. You need something like this to do that and then you can mount it inside your enclosure with something like this thing. That way you can set your enclosure temperature independent of your control board and draw as many amps as you need without worrying about blowing out a mosfet on your controller.
I use these for most of the wires:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074PN6N4K/
and these for any carrying a lot of power or thicker gauge wire:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CTRH86M/
you can search around, but there are some issues with knock-off ones melting and causing issues (the ender 3's stock ones among them). the one's I linked are pre-vetted by youtubers who independently tested a bunch to validate authenticity and quality when the issue was first brought to light.
4 meters sounds like it would be plenty, a parts site I found lists a 5 meter belt as a replacement for the x and y axis, so 2.5 meters seems like the length it's asking for, but I'm not sure how much leftover you'd get with that.
I just took a gamble, didn't really do any homework.
PRILINE
Here's a couple more little bits of advice if you decide to stick with the Tarantula...
Order a pack of these t nuts. Unlike the T nuts that come with the kit, you pop them into the rails and they hold themselves in place (although you can slide to line stuff up). It makes assembly much easier. With the stock T nuts it can be hard to get them all lined up when you need to attach a part to the extrusion. And then you never really know if they engaged the extrusion or not. With those other ones, you put them in the extrusion and the hold the part up and start the screws. They almost can't be done wrong - if they're in the channel, they will be properly engaged with the extrusion. You can sometimes accidentally knock them crooked in the channel, but when it happens you know it and it is much easier to fix than problems with the stock t-nuts because taking the part off doesn't mean you have to redo all the T nuts associated with that part.
Order a pack of larger O.D. 4mm washers and put them on any nut/bolt that faces up to the acrylic or even printed plastic parts. Helps prevent damage.