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So that's a Japanese badged machine, definitely a high quality machine because it's going to have all metal parts. Especially being made by Toyota, in my opinion theirs were some of the best machines made at the time. The type of cord you will need is a motor block/power cord, something like this, where you plug the machine into the 'machine' plug, and the light would plug into the other. (Do you have another cord for that? It looks like you have a light bulb switch on the front there.) Looks like a straight stitch machine, so the knob on front will control how long the stitch length is, and the R is for reverse.

The way it's threaded looks pretty standard - from the top spool, loop the thread through the top left thread guide, then around the tension discs, catch it on the spring then back under the next thread guide, then thru the take-up lever hole, down thru the left thread guide, thru that next thread guide, then around the thread hook near the needle clamp, and then thru the needle. Not sure which way your needle should face though/which way to thread the needle, whether its front to back or right to left.

The paint on this is in AMAZING condition, and it's so CLEAN. It looks like it's hardly been used!! Make sure to oil it before using, and lubricate the gears, as it has probably been a while since it has been. (Unless the seller did that ahead of time?) Good luck with your find, looks great!

You have a VERY coveted machine, in an equally coveted cabinet! The 201 is/was considered the sewing machine fit for a princess. It will be EXCELLENT for learning to sew. These vintage machines are generally much more powerful than modern sewing machines, so will easily sew through many layers of thick fabric, but also will produce excellent seams on fine fabric and everything in between.

I knew nothing about fixing machines, but I managed to ressurect a completely gunked up and stuck/frozen treadled Singer from 1927. It now works GREAT and is far stronger than any of my modern machines. I expect it to outlive me! This book got me started, it's very helpful, but may not have all of the info you need: How to Select, Service, Repair & Maintain your Vintage Sewing Machine https://www.amazon.com/dp/1507500998/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GnItDbRN626MQ

My main concern for your 201 would be that the wiring of the motor could be bad, due to age. It can be fixed! But don't try to plug it in and use it until you can be sure there is not a short, causing you to get a bad shock. I don't know if you'll find a professional to replace wiring for you, but for some machines it looks fairly straightforward.

Hang on to the old sewing stuff from the drawers, there are people who collect it. Some items might look ancient, but will be perfectly usable, so don't make that judgement yet if you don't know how to sew. Do keep the bottle of oil in a separate place, rather than risk it spilling into the either stuff.

A place to start will be to learn how to raise the machine from the cabinet into position for sewing, wipe away the dust (don't use any cleaning supplies yet, just a dry cloth), and start oiling the machine according to instructions for your machine, using fresh sewing machine oil. This is what I use, but I buy it locally at Walmart or a fabric store. Do not use anything but sewing machine oil to oil your machine!
Dritz Sewing Machine Oil, 4-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YQESLW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RwItDbGTG4KXC

There is a world of info out there on servicing and using these vintage machines, but hopefully this will get you started.

Thanks for the advice. That is a nice guide for making a base.

Surprisingly I found a bobbin case on Amazon that actually lists this Kenmore model number in the lower description. I think I'll go with that one, and try a generic pedal.

The handwheel rotation is very smooth, and the needle and feed action look good. I haven't checked the hook timing, but that's easy to fix, as is the servicing (I work on big industrial machines for a living, I just don't know vintage home machines too well). Thanks! Hopefully I get it running at some point, it's a pretty machine.

From watching the Andytube channel on youtube where he disassembles and cleans a couple of slant-shank machines, I've started using the Triflow oil he recommends on my 500 and 404, and both run super smoothly now.

I replaced many controllers. Even today I wired new to the 401. Literally everything will work, any brands, including the new electronics controllers (preferable). The only difference is the connectors. I usually use these, or one like these with singers:

https://www.amazon.ca/Singer-Sewing-Machine-Pedal-979314-031/dp/B008MM5CG0

Those are generic electronic chinese ones. If you can wire the cable and don't care for connectors then it can literally be used in any machine. But on ebay or aliexpress you can find these with the connector already in place for your exact model.

Sometimes (actually more often than not) the connectors are fully sealed and can't be rewired so it is usually the cheapest to get whole new modern controller with the cable for the exact model. In worse case you can cut the wire close to the old sealed connector and use soldering and proper heat shrink tubing to attach new wire to the old wire - but it require a bit of professionalism to do it safely. I did it like that today for the 401 because I had one electronic controller on hand and the old wire was decent, but it isn't something I personally like to do very much. The old cables are better in garbage than on machine. The isolation has microfractures ... an unlucky coffee spill over old the cable may cause a shock. And the copper wire inside is oxidized and may cause the cable to overheat if the joint is not right or has some resistance due to oxidization....

I sometimes use the new-ish (1970 onwards) controllers from other broken machines if they are in good shape. They are often bit more substantial than the modern electronic replacements. The electronic are quite light and travel around under the table, but otherwise offer better speed control than the carbon disk mechanical ones.

Never use metal ones. In fact for singer the metal are pre-1950 and generally considered be gone by now. Not a good idea to wire one. Old controllers are a fire hazard and with metal ones a shock hazard. Especially if you are in Europe on 220V.

You may want to buy a motor kit like this then just keep your eyes open for a pedal at thrift stores and keep the old motor as a backup.

This was with 3 machines listed on FB. Ad said 2 Singers and a German machine... $40 each obo. It ended up being a Singer 9410 , an eighties Kenmore that was missing the bobbin case and needle plate, and this gorgeous gal. Passed on the other two, but had to get this one.

So far, she looks good. No cracks in the cams, needle position is all good, automatic threader works, everything is moving freely. The power button is broken, but that's a common failure point, from what I understand. I'm debating replacing the switch with the correct part or replacing it with something like this salvaged from a plane at work.

I can't wait to play around!

Example one: the Singer 193 and its sibling models. I know that they exist, it looks like they're straight stitch machines, and from this potato-quality manual cover I know which is which (and that they're probably two pairs of similar machines in old-style and new-style bodies, but very counter-intuitively named). And that's it. I've seen one in my regional classifieds twice, and can't help wondering if it's the same machine (although given my location it may be two separate imports from Australia).

Example two: the Singer website has this manual for a Singer 115 from the 50s or 60s which bears absolutely no relationship to the Singer model everyone knows as a 115, which was made until the 20s. It's also a cast iron straight stitch machine, but it has an oscillating hook mechanism and a stitch length dial just like a 15, but the tension on the side like every machine except the 15 and the (actual) 115. And a plastic knob for dropping feed dogs. My theory is that this is some regional factory carelessly reusing an old model number, but I haven't been able to find any shred of information about this machine. Holy shit, while I was looking stuff up for this comment I found this listing, which shows this exact machine and confirms that it also comes from the Monza factory in Italy. So I learned something today. :)

These are obscure to me, but for all I know you can't throw a brick in Italy without hitting one.

Pellon Shape-Flex Woven Interfacing-15 X2 Yards https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00923BEPQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_85AADbE2ZCCGQ

These machines are all clones, so the other poster is right, it's probably a standard class 15 bobbin case: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZY7SBBV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BxYxCbYVA2SM9