Top products from r/wildwhittlers

I started with a Mora 122, but it didn't take too long for me to realize that the long blade got in the way. (or rather, my hand got in the way of the long blade) The 120 looks better due to the shorter blade. Moras come extremely sharp, which is beneficial to someone just getting started, as you will be able to learn what it SHOULD feel like when you whittle. Then, you can compare your experiences to that as your blade dulls, and you'll be able to tell when you need to hone/strop.


I also bought the flexcut here

It's been a really good knife, but wasn't quite as sharp as the mora out of the box. However, the sheath is really nice quality (better than the moras) and its easy to transport, and the blade is nice and short so it doesnt get in the way. I would choose the flexcut if I had to choose one knife to bring somewhere to whittle.


Congratulations, its a fun hobby! Good luck!

A Morakniv Classic is a pretty great choice. Comfortable grip, well made, cheap. You just have to be aware that it is carbon steel, so it will rust if you leave it wet, and the sheath it comes in is kinda crappy. If you don't mind those two things, a mora would be great for you. If you'd rather a folding knife, the other one I can recommend is an Opinel. While that particular knife is carbon steel, you can get the Opinel in stainless as well, and it has pretty much all the same advantages of a Mora.

All that being said, so long as your Swiss Army knife is sharp, and you start on an easy bit of wood, soft, no knots, straight grain, you probably don't need a new knife.

That's a pretty common size, in my opinion. When you're carving in the round, most people trace the design onto the wood with pencil (there's some techniques for this as well, like using center lines to maintain good proportions) and then cut the blank to roughly match the design with a bandsaw or coping saw if you are doing it by hand.

Personally, I go with the coping saw and as I make the cuts, I tape the sawed-off pieces back together with masking tape and retrace the pencil lines so I can more easily conceptualize the proper cuts on a 3d object. The coping saw can be rather tiresome work though.

Another good method is to use stop cuts to precisely take away large amounts, but instead of using a knife to make the stop cut, use a little saw. This small Xacto saw is amazing for that purpose.. I've tried a number of small, hand-held saws and this one has very fine teeth and minimal kerf so it works well in basswood. Just cut in with the saw, then use the knife to gradually slice down the unwanted material to the stop cut.

My first project was also an egg and I have to say it is a very boring project, although it was useful to figure out how the grain affected various cuts. Choose a more interesting one next time from the start and it will be far more enjoyable. I'd recommend trying a wood spirit (like an old man face). There's plenty of tutorials and examples on youtube/google. Picking up a coping saw or the Xacto to rough out what you want to carve will get some parts started even quicker.

This was about halfway through my second carving attempt ever, doing a wood spirit. You can see how you use the corner of the blank for the bridge of the nose and round off the head around the other three corners. Way more fun.

They're okay for basic sharpening but for wood carving with knives, you want the knife to be as sharp as possible. It's safer and easier. You'll notice that the ceramic polishing stone on the lansky is only 800 grit which is way too course for getting any kind of fine edge on your knife.
If you're just starting out, maybe get whatever is cheap. I recommend this to begin with. I have achieved much better results than with any of those Lansky types of sharpeners. Then if you decide you like whittling, invest in some more expensive bench stones. You won't regret it!

The case whittlers are more ornate and unique but lack the safety mechanisms of the Flexcut series.

A good comprimise would be the [Robert Klaas Lockback Whittler] (https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B003HBWJV2/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_CASFybTZ6C4HC) . Which I think, is a beautiful knife with a good name.

You should also check out the Schrade Hammer Sunfish whittler, Schrade's Uncle Henry whittler series aswell as the Boker Carver's Congress. These knives don't have lockbacks but I still like them more than the Case Seahorses.

Sharpening that will be a chore...
Just grab yourself a good heavy, comfortable box cutter that uses razors. Spend your $25 on a few extra blades and a pack of basswood. Get used to how the blade works when used on wood grain at different angles and directions.

I've got a drawer full of knives and still grab a razor knife for just wasting time whiltiling. It's quick, easy, cheap and it needs no sharpening.

Just my thoughts. If you really want a knife just get a Chinese buck knife. Mine holds an edge better than any expensive case knife I've bought yet.

Something like this..
Buck Knives 375 Deuce Two Blade Folding Pocket Knife https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EI0VXO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PmajDbA7Q9R5W

This is the hook knife that I use... there are lots of youtube videos about using and sharpening these knives. It is pretty fun to use once you get a good edge and learn how to wield it.

Knife

I just ordered this one. What do you think? Thanks for the welcome

Ended up purchasing a Mora 120. Hope it turns out well.

I started whittling a few months ago and I've been using a Mora 120. I appreciate the big wood handle and the smaller 1.9 in blade, plus, it takes and holds a sharp edge well.

If it's Moras for you, I use the 120 and 122 most out of the bunch (which can be confusing when you grab them, they're surprisingly easy to get backwards).

I do most of my carving with a folding knife though, a Cold Steel Tuff Lite:

http://i.imgur.com/h4AT4sp.jpg

They can make a big difference but mostly I would say just use what works for you. Personally I use a Mora Classic #2 for almost all my carving, its cheap, and its easy to get it wicked sharp. Occasionally I'll use a smaller blade such as an opinel or a Flexcut. Wood selection is also a big factor, I would recommend grabbing some Basswood if you're just starting out.

Sure, I'm interested in your work.

As for the knife, it's a cheapie I ordered on Amazon. I like the size, since I can carry it in my pocket with a small block and not feel bulky. The handle, however, leaves a lot to be desired when it comes to my hands. I think I'll need a thicker handle to avoid fatigue, but I'm looking into that. The handle on this Morakniv might be more what I need.

oohh I understand know.

What about this type of sharpners? https://www.amazon.com.mx/gp/product/B01BE8KCN6/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AVDBXBAVVSXLQ

It actually is (or supposed to be) basswood! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VG1QUQK/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_LsAMxbG4NJCPE

I will keep that in mind. I will have to look into what I can get in my area.

Knife: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0037SNATU

Depending on the wood, if I'm using a knife a lot, I'd strop it pretty often - it could be as often as every 5-10 minutes. I sharpen the blade less often than that - maybe every few hours of carving, again depending on the wood.

Stropping technique is important - make sure to keep the blade flat to the strop - if you don't you'll actually be dulling the edge with the strop. What do you mean by "chalk"? There are lots of good stropping compounds out there. My favorite is Yellowstone.

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/flexcut-slipstrop-compound?gclid=CjwKEAiAuc_FBRD7_JCM3NSY92wSJABbVoxB-nx-5YxNlLVErVppYOwPV3TG9uGnoY_ZYysINptvbhoCfCLw_wcB

But just stropping isn't enough in the long term. You do really need to learn to sharpen if you want to keep that really keen edge. You don't have to go nuts on sharpening gear. A coarse/fine combination India oilstone is plenty good enough.

https://www.amazon.com/Norton-614636855653-8-Inch-Combination-Oilstone/dp/B000XK5ZDY

Other people may swear by a different method, but I've used oilstones for nearly thirty years now, and they work for me. And they're cheap. As a honing oil, I've settled on using lamp oil - I like it because it's cheap, thin, and cuts fast.

You're not going to damage the blade by take a stone to it, but you may dull it until you learn what you're doing. Dull is fixable by ... sharpening. The only way you'd be likely to damage the blade is if you take it to something electric, and don't watch for heat. But you don't need to use anything electric with a knife.

You'll also need a way to repair damage to the blade, which, at least in my experience, eventually happens. For that, a cheap combination diamond block from Harbor Freight will do the trick. Or you could just use coarse wet&dry sandpaper glued to a piece of MDF.

On strops: You don't need to buy a fancy strop. I made my first ones from old leather belts, glued to a piece of scrap wood or MDF. You should have two: One charged with the honing compound of your choice, and one plain leather to follow it and do the final polish.