Top products from r/xcountryskiing

We found 13 product mentions on r/xcountryskiing. We ranked the 13 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/xcountryskiing:

u/theproprietor · 1 pointr/xcountryskiing

I've gotten my kids up skiing about the age of 2. 2 is a the perfect age to start. They will only go for about 10 mins at a time and need lots of positive response. Then put them in a backpack or sled and ski on your own.

Bring lots of sweet trail mix. Make skiing = good snacks :)

Discard the poles. The kid will just use them to hit the snow and anyone around them.

Of course keep them very warm with good clothes.

With boots they can use this: http://www.amazon.com/Lucky-Bums-Beginner-Poles-Green/dp/B000WSEA0Q

Have fun!!!

u/Fign66 · 6 pointsr/xcountryskiing

First off, none of theses questions are dumb, I had many of the same when I was first starting to wax and I wish Reddit had been around back then to answer them.

  1. Unless the skis are new or you are going to be doing highly competitive racing, one or two layers of glide wax per waxing should be fine.

  2. For basic waxing, yes. What soaks into your ski is the hydrocarbon or fluorocarbon compounds in the wax and not the wax its self. These compounds are hydrophobic and will repel water; this is how skis go fast, by gliding on a thin layer of water, and also why cross country skis have a groove. Once the wax cools, you want to scrape it off because the actual wax will be really slow.
  3. The brushes are the next step after scraping to remove the wax from the base. By brushing the skis, the thin layers of wax left after scraping can be removed, leaving only the carbon compounds impregnated in your base and no wax. The different bristles have different stiffness and are used at different points in the brushing process, generally moving from stiffest to softest. Steel brushes are generally the stiffest, followed by copper or bronze brushes with nylon being the softest. The stiffer metal brushes are used right after scraping to remove any larger pockets of remaining wax, then the softer nylon brushes are used to finish the wax removal and "polish" the ski to its final surface finish. Its also good to remember ALWAYS BRUSH TIP TO TAIL!

  4. Some people do, some don't. If the kick wax is applied correctly, it shouldn't make too much of a difference either way.

  5. You don't apply hot wax to the kick zone of waxless skis, because it can be difficult to scrape the wax out. If the kick zone is really sticking to the snow when gliding, a liquid wax like this can be applied there as needed.

  6. No one really knows what fiberlene is for. Just kidding, it can be used to remove the dust form the base after waxing and can also be used in various different ironing techniques. I personally don't use the stuff much except to keep my iron clean when ironing a dirty ski with cleaning wax, so someone else might know the uses better than me.

    Hope this helps.


u/ThelceMan · 7 pointsr/xcountryskiing

Hello,

Professional amateur rollerskier here:

Step 1. Pick up some rollerski specific carbide steel tips such as these


Step 2. Use them and keep those tips SHARP! So many people do not sharpen their tips before they go out to their detriment.

For sharpening I reccomend buying a dremel tool such as this and then using these tips

Step 3. Sharpen often! In my opinion, it is better to sharpen a little bit every time than a lot every once in a while.

I hope this has been helpful!

u/hisdudeness47 · 1 pointr/xcountryskiing

Thanks for the reply. Forgive me, but what do you mean by prioritizing support? I don't really know if something like this qualifies as "supportive" or not.

u/prodigy904 · 2 pointsr/xcountryskiing

I've got a pair of those craft pants (men's version) and have used them the last two years for skiing and biking. They are great! Even during the polar vortex last year when it was -15, I still only need this pair of pants (disclaimer, I tend to run warm when I'm working out and need less clothes than others). They've got a nice windproof panel on the front but are breathable on the back. I would absolutely recommend these for skiing.


My wife has been skiing a couple years now and is looking to upgrade her pants, these are the ones she's looking at getting link 1 link 2 link 3.


As for mixing and matching brands, I don't think anyone is paying attention to that.

u/Seth586 · 1 pointr/xcountryskiing

Ok. So the binding needs to have a NIS attachment to the ski, and then I can use a NNN compatible boot sole. So would this work?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00QX9WISO/

And then I could use a Salomon prolink NNN boot...?

u/Sander_vitreus · 2 pointsr/xcountryskiing

If you are on a budget, these pants have been solid for me. Last year, I did a long distance race (113km), and it was -34C for the night portion of the race. They kept me plenty warm with a base layer underneath and are not too bulky. The only downside is that the material stiffens up a bit when it is that cold, but on a budget they were more than acceptable.

u/genericdude999 · 1 pointr/xcountryskiing

Yeah, I had the same problem. Anything above freezing and it will ice. I use Easy Glide on the ski bases every time. I didn't want to clog up the skin fur with a liquid wax, so I rub it with a piece of candle. Front to back in the direction of the fur, like you pet a cat. Has worked 100% since I started waxing that way over a couple seasons in all kinds of warm sticky snow.

u/c0reboarder · 1 pointr/xcountryskiing

Did you get the harness locally and the same shop didn't have everything else? We have a local pet supply shop that sells everything you need in the same sectio. As long as you have an appropriate harness and bungee lead, I think you could improvise a belt. Or just get one from Amazon. Sorry, not sure on the brand we have, but the belts we have are similar to this jogging belt: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MD0EZBK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OfU8BbY32PT3H