Reddit reviews ANYCUBIC 3D Printer Heating Controller MKS MOSFET for Heatbed Extruder MOS Module
We found 13 Reddit comments about ANYCUBIC 3D Printer Heating Controller MKS MOSFET for Heatbed Extruder MOS Module. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Each one has done functional testSuperior performance of MOSFET (Max 280A)Extra large heat sink , the maximum current can be up to 30A or moreCan use hot bed output signal of Ramp1.4 and MKS series to controlCan use digital signal of 5-24v to control
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
upgraded carriage plate, should be one of the first things you do, the stock one is flimsy and prone to warping, making the print bed extremely hard to level reliably.
https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Hotend-SLOTTED-Cooling-Wanhao/dp/B01E1HANLS/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497736485&sr=8-1-fkmr3&keywords=i3+plus+all+metal+hotend
all metal hotend will enable you to print at much higher temp, and increase reliability of the print head. not strictly needed, but a great upgrade if you want to print abs, petg, or other higher temp filaments.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HCVJ3K2/ref=sxr_rr_xsim_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3008523062&pd_rd_wg=sUxZ5&pf_rd_r=W5Q7RV181EJYGTBW4YDJ&pf_rd_s=desktop-rhs-carousels&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B01HCVJ3K2&pd_rd_w=ZPXZq&pf_rd_i=tri+gorilla&pd_rd_r=F2X8G4XDPCVTNXX6J560&ie=UTF8&qid=1497736655&sr=1
heater bed mosfet upgrade. again, not strictly needed, but also useful for high temp filaments like abs, as you can run the heated bed at higher temps. also solves (small possibility, i3 plus supposedly fixed issue) of stock mosfet burning out and catching fire.
https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=i3+plus+cooler&sa=&dwh=295945a7ab3d0cd
print a cooling fan shroud, i use the ciiicooler, the diiicooler is great as well. preferably in abs. BIG quality improvement, the stock fan is useless.
these are some of the ones i use, and there's a lot of other things you can do, extruder gear, improved bearings, too many to count really, just a matter of how far you want to go for incremental gains. the carriage plate and the cooling fan shroud are the only strictly necessary ones though.
oh and i made my own version of this z-brace, don't have the files anymore unfortunately, but this one is fine:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1653631
that's also something you should do asap.
Would it be worth the extra $10 to get this board instead?
TriGorilla Mosfet Board?
There are a couple ones I've seen in tutorials: I used this, but seen some youtubers use this.
"v2.1" is a label that means nothing anymore, since there have been four revisions of v2.1 and the most current model is still called v2.1
Wanhao has never done a "mosfet change" in the board,they upgraded under-rated connectors to properly handle the amount of power needed to pass through them; they didn't add anything.If you want to be sure, open the box and look at things for yourself.
Edit: Apparently Wanhao did update a mosfet. But I haven't seen any reports of someone who had something like this in their printer. It's likely the updated mosfet is visually identical to what they replaced.
Thank you for the information, that was very helpful. My Maker Select V2 just arrived yesterday so I was just relaying what I have read thus far (basically about 4 days of reading about them non stop).
The other method I was referring to in my original post is this one which is using a MOSFET board. http://3dprinterwiki.info/wiki/wanhao-duplicator-i3/di3-advanced-mods/heatbed-terminal-burning-fix-with-mosfet-board/ What do you think the "best" fix would be out of the 3 available? (Replace connectors, rewire heat bed to PSU, install MOSFET board)
The highest rated MOSFET board on Amazon is unfortunately unavailable right now, otherwise I would already have that on the way. Same as the OP, I would like to fix this early on before it does become a problem but with no prior soldering experience and being anal, I would like to avoid the method which requires it.
also look into a the mosfet upgrade. the a8 is notorious for burning the connectors. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HCVJ3K2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the one i ordered for mine
So if anyone ever ends up in a situation like mine, I'd like to leave a note here. I purchased an aftermarket mosfet board (as long as it supports 5v switching you'll be fine). I soldered into the bypass pad on the main board, ran this to my + input on the mosfet and ran a jumper wire to the - from the power supply. Then I wired up my power supply and the bed, and the bed is heating properly. I bought a super beefy mosfet with a heatsink which is probably overkill, but it's working, so I can't complain.
Now I just have to figure out how to mount this thing in the box...
Yeah, a second external mosfet. One of these: https://www.amazon.com/TriGorilla-Printer-Heating-Controller-Extruder/dp/B01HCVJ3K2/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1526154992&sr=8-19&keywords=mosfet The MK2/S has had a history of having arching and melting in the plug they use to hook the heat bed to the RAMBO. That's why the MK3 uses screw terminals so its less necessary. They're much safer and more robust. The PSU has a spare empty 12V +/- terminal. So I desoldered the heatbed end. Ran those leads to the on/off signal input of the external mosfet. The RAMBO bed output now becomes a lower amperage enable/disable signal. Then I ran new power leads from the PSU to the power in on the mosfet then power out to the bed, soldering those new leads onto the bed. Printed a small enclosure and use some self adhesive velcro to stick it to my rambo case. Aint pretty, but the risk of a meltdown is greatly reduced. Probably overkill but better safe than sorry.
That's a very good point. I'm confident in my soldering skills, I neglected that others may not be. I have seen a few FET's out in the wild. I'm not sure if they are all created equally.
I'm aware of the reprap one:
http://www.reprap.me/power-expander.html
and the Amazon Trigorilla one:
https://www.amazon.com/TriGorilla-Printer-Heating-Controller-Extruder/dp/B01HCVJ3K2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482884825&sr=8-1&keywords=3d+printer+mosfet
Can anyone chime in on the best Mosfet solution for those that don't have the skills or want to possibly void their warranty?
problems so far havent really been anything serious, i bought the upgrades before i even built it so i cant really talk for the stock version
Upgrades i bought for it
other than that havent really had any problems with it its been a great printer so far, i am going to start printing some upgrades for it soon but its printing really nicely so far, if you do end up getting it ive got my s3d profiles i could email you ive got them looking pretty good, the retraction was one of the longest settings to get dialed in for me as this is my first bowden tube printer
if you have any more questions let me know
I went with this Mosfet for my Maker Select and am very pleased with it:
ANYCUBIC 3D Printer Heating Controller MKS MOSFET for Heatbed Extruder MOS Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HCVJ3K2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_5g3yWwXefECUF
It used to be branded TriGorilla. The thing is a beast.
Actually, the parts are pretty standard, so it doesn't really matter where you buy from.
I bought them from various sources (electronics markets, amazon, and some local shops), so my links are just to be seen as examples:
Printed upgrades:
There is one small error in the assembly videos: The bed mounting plate (the H-shaped thing) is mounted upside down in the video. The bar that goes across the axes and connects both outer plates should be under the plates, not above as in the assembly videos.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HCVJ3K2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_PI.Cyb7TB37GQ
This is the board I'm looking doing. I like it because of the heat sink.
I know there is that is half the price, but the heat sink I think is better.