Reddit reviews GO-3D PRINT 220mm x 220mm Borosilicate Glass Plate/Bed w/Flat Polished Edge for MK2 MK3 Heated Bed 3D Printer

You may be getting one like mine, that was RMA'd for multiple reasons, but overall just needed some adjusting / mods to make it more reliable.

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Things I've seen with my printers / would check:

• Heating element issues
  
  • It doesn't like to be heated up too quickly after being hot already (I can't print shortly after changing filaments unless I let the hotend cool down to ambient temps)
    
  • Poor QC / reliability of (some of) their heating elements. I had one that failed to heat, and realized that the wire crimp had failed completely. Soldering the wire to the pin worked.
    
• The fan that cools the motherboard failing / making noise. Replace it quickly.
  
• Poor QC on physical connections
  
  • There are four screws on the bottom. Remove those and ensure that the power supply cables are secure. I had 3 cables that weren't secure and would reset the machine if disconnected somehow.
    
  • Heating elements (see above)
    
• The belts for any ground down / frayed teeth. If there was a jam, the teeth grind down. (First hand experience there. Oops.)
  
• Overtightened screws on the extruder casing - making it harder to repair the extruder (I'll have to drill out the screws and replace them)
  
  Useful links: https://www.printer3d.one/en/wanhao-duplicator-6-monoprice-maker-ultimate-tips-improvements/ - I use this to find the replacement parts that I need.
  
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  My next upgrades / to dos:
  
  
• Get some ABS and print the circular cooler : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2009614
  
• Repair / ugrade the extruder casing
  
• Replace the extruder: https://www.bondtech.se/en/product/wanhao-d6-kit/
  
• Get a better buildplate: https://www.amazon.com/220mm-Borosilicate-Polished-Heated-Printer/dp/B01LFOI2VS/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=sl1&tag=printer3d-20&linkId=55fd2be9877a99fccebccd124871ad5b
  
• Get the Swiss3d All Metal Hotend.
  
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I absolutely must recommend a PEI sheet for printing ABS. It's the best printing surface I've used for being able to print ABS without having issues with the print tending to pull off the surface. I was using glass which is great for PLA, but even with hairspray, I was having issues with small areas of ABS pulling up somewhat regularly. Because it's a stiff sheet, it's easier to apply than tape without worrying about air bubbles. I still recommend having a boro glass plate as it's good for ensuring your bed is perfectly flat. Links below.

PEI Sheet: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FVQJ7QK/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_GC2lDb0FXF07W
Borosilicate Glass: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LFOI2VS/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_vD2lDb92XDS8T

Also, just FYI, if you plan on printing any part upgrades for your printer, especially if you plan on using cable chains, keep in mind that ABS prints pretty much require the use of an enclosure to keep the temperature stable and warm. PLA has a tendency of deforming when even only slightly warm and I had a number of issues when I first started using a cabinet as a result. You'll want to print your part upgrades in ABS so as to maintain rigidity in a warm enclosure. You can always start with PLA and later upgrade the parts to ABS, but keep this in mind if/when you move to filaments that require a warmer print environment.

And above all, upgrade your firmware to ensure you have some minimum safety features. I nearly had a fire early on with mine when my hotend thermal probe was accidentally pulled out during a print causing it to have a thermal runaway.