Reddit reviews MZS CNC Pivot Brake Clutch Levers Compatible with Suzuki DR200S 2015-2019 | DR250R 1996-2000 | DRZ400S DRZ400SM 2000-2017 | DJEBEL250XC 1998-2007 Black
We found 2 Reddit comments about MZS CNC Pivot Brake Clutch Levers Compatible with Suzuki DR200S 2015-2019 | DR250R 1996-2000 | DRZ400S DRZ400SM 2000-2017 | DJEBEL250XC 1998-2007 Black. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
IMPORTANT NOTE - Please check "vehicle fitment list" to make sure that this model type and year work for your bike before ordering.HIGH QUALITY COMPONENTS - MZS Pivot levers used chrome steel precision sealed bearings, stainless steel pivot and bushing parts, Chrome Silicon cantilever springs, aerospace grade stainless steel and chromoly fasteners, and specially designed and manufactured fasteners.DJUSTABLE REACH - by simply adjusting a bolts on the MZS lever, the reach can be adjusted to accommodate the smallest to the largest hands and gives the best clutch or brake response.MZS ADVABTAGE - This lever-processed logo prevents the lever's fingers from slipping, the pivot design allows the lever to fold outward to prevent bending or breaking in the event of a crash. And the anodized with beautiful glossy and vibrant finish, which increases resistance to corrosion and wear, makes your bike stand out from the crowd .TECHNICAL SUPPORT - Why I choose right model and year but still can't fit? The biggest possibility is that your lever has ever damaged before, and you used another universal perch and lever (Not OEM) replace your stock, so the MZS lever size will not fit your new perch. If you have this situation please contact us, we will help you solve it.
The bike has 1800 miles on it. It came with Renthal bars, ProTaper grips, some Acerbis replacement plastics, and a IMMIX racing rack. It's sitting on Dunlop 606's. The only things I could find wrong with it were the dented muffler, bent brake levers, and missing oem mirrors.
I would appreciate some recommendations for these upgrades:
Any mandatory mods or other upgrades I should consider? I plan on jetting, 3x3 mod, and getting a full exhaust down the road some. I'm still using borrowed gear at the moment so I need to buy that before I get too crazy.
Yup that is the right seat. You have to install it on your original seat pan. It's a pain, I would suggest getting a good stapler to do the job.
The plastic tanks might be a little lighter, probably not by much though. I had used the 4.1 gal, and the 3.1 gal. The 4.1 was nice for the range, but I didn't like that it always had a little bit of extra fuel that you couldn't use in the lobe. Also it didn't make the bike look as fast, which was important to me. The 3.1 was a good compromise of range and looks.
The JD kit may actually increase your fuel economy. I actually noticed that it did for me, and many others noticed the same. It also offers a needle with adjustments that the stock needle does not give. It is a very common mod to do, so the bike might already have it. Especially if the PO put a pipe on, but then again who knows.
Kientech makes the extended fuel screw for the bike. When you use the fuel screw, you have to use the OEM Pilot jet size of 22.5. Then turn the fuel screw 2.75 turns out. Many folks get this wrong, they install a bigger 25 PJ, as is recommend with the JD kit, but then they install the extended fuel screw too. This configuration is not good. The fuel screw has s different profile than the stock screw, it already compensates the same as a bigger PJ size would offer. So you end up with way to much fuel. This is covered by many folks as well.
I didn't actually buy the levers I had so I am not sure... but something like this...
https://www.amazon.com/MZS-1996-2000-2000-2017-DJEBEL250XC-1998-2007/dp/B01DBPUHIU
There are like a 100 options I see on amazon. You might want to search around for something with better reviews that looks like that.
The bike pumps oil back into the frame reservoir while it runs. When the bike sits, the oil slowly drains from the reservoir into the bottom of the motor. If you check the oil when it has not been running recently, it wont show any oil. If you check the bike immediately after it was running, it will always show full or high. The bike has to have been running on the street for a while, then park wait 3 mins, then check. The manual says you can idle the bike for 3 mins, then wait 3 mins and check, but this is wrong, just idling the bike will give a false low reading. It is super annoying. I would always check it when I got home after a long ride, that way I was never second guessing myself with pre-ride half assed checks.
I spent a huge amount of time confirming the oil check processes on my bike. The stupid dipstick was maddening. I can backup the procedure that I mention above because I would always measure how much oil drained out of the machine each time I changed the oil, and I would always check it before draining to confirm things too.